Nebbiolo and beyond: exploring Piemonte.

The full title of this masterclass was 'Nebbiolo and beyond: exploring Piemonte through a selection of native grapes', which was tutored by Elena Barattini, Langhe wine ambassador and wine educator, at a tasting in Dublin called 'Barolo & friends.' Image above of juicy Nebbiolo bunches was downloaded from ivinidelpiemonte.com, where you'll find more info about the region.

I've compiled my (long) notes and thoughts below on the ten diverse whites and (mostly) reds we tasted, which form the first of a few articles about Piemonte wines and grape varieties to follow over the coming weeks. And as a little introduction to the Nebbiolo variety, here are a few succinct titbits.

Approx three-quarters of world Nebbiolo plantings are found in the Piemonte region, which must say something about suitability of the climate and terrain there! The Nebbiolo vine generally has a long growing cycle (basically budding to picking) and is pretty site sensitive, meaning it doesn't grow well everywhere. Its berries are often high in acidity and tannin and have naturally unstable colour, hence its usually lighter hue and tendency to readily turn brown while ageing.

Fontanafredda Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi 2024 (12.5% alcohol, organic): Made by one of the region's biggest producers based in Serralunga d'Alba, and a well-known name internationally, sourced from vineyards in Gavi itself at 200-300 metres altitude facing southeast/southwest. 100% Cortese. Aromatic floral and zesty with gummy yeast-lees-y chalky texture, gets richer and juicier on the palate with lees tones, crisp acidity and lightly white peachy fruit, well-made and -balanced. Nice enough dry white with a tad more character and depth than a lot of Gavi, which has become somewhat ubiquitous. Cortese isn't exactly the most exciting variety in any case. Irish importer: Comans Beverages. €20-€23 Ireland, £12-£17 UK, €15 cellar door, $23-$27 US.

Vinchio Vaglio Roero Arneis DOCG 'Frusté' 2024 (13%): This co-op winery in Vinchio grows the characterful local white variety Arneis in sites at around 250 metres altitude. Six months' lees-stirring in vat before bottling. More complex and fuller nose than the Gavi, richer and perhaps more concentrated with ripe pears and more exotic fruits, nice lees-y texture and depth with subtle freshness, attractive quite lingering finish with nutty flavours and plenty of character. Good quality dry white. €10-€15 Italy, Germany and Netherlands. $30 US? Article to follow focusing on Arneis.

Bava Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG 2024 (14%): Ruchè is an old Piemonte variety, which has been lightly resurrected in recent years but only to about 200 hectares in this one appellation area, planted at around 250 metres. Appealing nose mixing up spicy peppery notes with aromatic cherry and herbs, grapey and rose petal nuances too with lightly earthy edges; attractive morello cherry fruit with riper liquorice flavours too, then a tarter side with moderate tannins and fresh acidity vs just-ripe fruit, bigger rounder finish but not unbalanced with quite long interesting flavours. Good quality unusual red, drinking well now. Importer: Dalcassian Wines. €15-€17 Italy, $25-$27 US.

Vinory Nizza DOCG 'Bricco' 2021 (15%): 100% Barbera from a 2.3 hectare plot lying at 280 metres southeast of the town of Asti; aged 24 months in barriques (new and used) and vats. Deep dark colour still for its age, very oaky coco nose and palate adding sweetness and rounded texture for sure, but the flavour is very oak dominant; there probably is some good depth of fruit underneath but the winemaking comes across as a bit heavy-handed and amateurish. Quite expensive. €45 Ireland, £40 UK, Kr400 Norway, 275Kr Denmark. Article to follow on wines made from Barbera.

Castello di Gabiano Barbera d'Asti DOCG Superiore 'Adornes' 2016 (15%): From the far north of the Asti region on the River Po; 18 months in large casks and vats. Still deep and purpley with ageing edges, hints of spicy oak but with plenty of appealing maturing fruit, dark berry with earthy / savoury notes, nice palate and texture with light oak, ripe fruit and concentrated rounded mouthfeel, tannins are still present but it's well-made and balanced. A touch of class. €34 cellar door, $52 Canada.

Travaglini Gattinara DOCG 'Trevigne' 2020: Nebbiolo from three sites (planted up to 400m above sea level) in the northern part of Langhe. Aged 36 months mostly in botti (large older casks). Typical Nebbiolo paler colour with browning edges showing its age a little, nice aromatic maturing nose with spicy and meaty tones, pretty tannic structure still with light oak notes but good depth of maturing fruit, a fairly powerful mouthful although balanced. Tasty wine, drinking well now but should develop more for a few years. Bit pricey though: £37-£50 UK, $40-$45 US, €39-€45 mainland Europe. Irish importer - winesofitaly.ie.

Palladino Barolo DOCG del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba 2021 (14.5%): Sourced from five locations all southeast- and southwest-facing vineyards; and matured in 3800 litre oak vats. Similar colour although a touch younger looking, lovely nose with aromatic vs maturing profile showing tarter red fruits vs appealing liquorice notes, less obvious oak influence with firm texture but has lots of fruit and fresh acidity keeping it going, concentrated maturing yet structured finish, powerful while balanced. Very good example. Irish importer - Boutique Wines €53.50; €45-€50 rest of Europe, $63-$83 US, £50 UK. Image below of Serralunga d’Alba from palladinovini.com.

Silvano Bolmida Barolo DOCG del Comune di Monforte d'Alba Riserva 2019: From five vineyards, fermented in barriques then free-run wine spends 36 months on the yeast-lees in tuns and tank, no fining or filtration. A little paler and older looking, peppery with light rustic notes and a bit wilder on the nose, rich full and big mouthfeel with gripping tannins vs plum and cherry fruit, concentrated for sure vs very structured still, a touch drying on the finish (needs food!) although should age further if the fruit holds out? Irish importer - Wines Direct €87, £68-£77 NI/UK.

Rizieri Barolo DOCG 'Silio' 2018: Based in Diano d'Alba, this wine comes from a 0.75 ha southeast-facing plot at 300 metres above sea level in the far north of La Morra province. Part-aged for six months in used barriques and part for 18 months in 25hl casks. Similar colour, oaky start on the nose being a little heavy on coconut flavours, tannins are less aggressive with a sweeter oak-fruit profile, big textured wine with nice fruit but it's just too oaky in the end with powerful alcohol lingering, not very balanced. €50-€60 Europe, $65 US.

Reverdito Michele Barolo DOCG Riserva 2016: Grapes from three sites in La Morra and Serralunga grown on south-east and -west facing slopes. Fermented in large wooden vats with two months' maceration on skins, 36 months' maturation in barrel and bottle. Colour was holding well for its age, slightly dusty character dominating the nose (the cork or the oak?), a bit stripped and dried. Faulty bottle. The second bottle tasted a touch oakier but was still a bit dusty, tannins were better though. Shame - could have been good.