Most of these 10 good-quality Greeks were sampled at an enlightening tasting organised by the Northern Ireland Wine & Spirit Institute led by Lisa McCully; and three others also bought from the Wine Society (impressive Greek range) and Marks & Spencer (moderately adventurous). They all show this diverse country should be on your wine radar, although it's not the place to look for bargains.
Vine yields and production are generally low; the country's active vineyard area is about 64,000 hectares (less than Germany), mostly parcelled up as small holdings, and they make even less wine than Austria. Diverse in the sense of vineyard terrain - high altitude and mountainous, coastal and islands - and over 300 native grape varieties.
Novus 'A Priori' Moschofilero 2024 Mantinea, Peloponnese (12.5% abv) - Another star white variety Moschofilero grown on the 'high-altitude plateau of Mantinea' (600 to 800 metres) and made by Leonidas Nassiakos. Lovely intense aromatic nose, fresh Muscat-grapey and orange peel, zesty and floral palate with pink grapefruit notes, very fresh cut with long zingy finish; delicious quite complex dry white. £13.95 Wine Society.
Lyrarakis Dafni Psarades Vineyard 2024 Crete (12.8% abv) - Dafní was an almost extinct Cretan variety; the Lyrarakis family replanted it in this block at 480m altitude in the early 1990s. Odd nose, almost minty and wild herby - bay leaf! (the grape's name comes from Greek for laurel) - with similar flavours, quite pungent and overpowering yet there's an oilier side to the texture cut by citrus freshness, like pesto! Certainly different, very quirky! £16 The Good Wine Shop, Hay Wines.
The Society's Greek White 2024 Peloponnese (12.5%) - 50-50 Roditis and Moschofilero. A great introduction to aromatic zesty Greek dry whites, nicely mixing citrus fruits with more exotic flavours, lively chalky finish; lovely example and decent quality too for the price. £9.50 Wine Society.
G and L Rosé 2024 Peloponnese, Leonidas Nassiakos and George Kintonis (12.5%) - Moschofilero, Roditis and Agiorgitiko. Another well-made Wine Society own label, this tasty wine is fruity, yeasty and crisp but with substance too; nice foodie rosé. £9.50
Myrtia Xinomavro Rosé 2024 Peloponnese (11.5% abv) - Xinomavro with Moschofilero and Assyrtiko. Delicate strawberry and sour cherry fruit, refreshing and light, crisp sweet rhubarb fruity with off dry finish. £10 M&S.
Gaia Agiorgitiko Rosé 4-6H 2024 Nemea, Peloponnese (12% abv) - 4-6H is the length of time the Agiorgitiko grapes are macerated on skins before pressing. Zesty and aromatic with crisp red berry fruits, fresh and light with yeast-lees notes adding a bit of texture and flavour, chalky finish with light pomegranate fruit and crisp acidity; very nice rosé. £15-£17 The Whisky Exchange, Strictly Wine, Tikves London, Great Wines Direct.
Dougos Winery Rapsani Old Vines 2022 Thessaly (13.5%) - Xinomavro (65%), Krasato (30%), Stavroto (5%) matured in French oak for 18 months. Smoky ripe resiny dried cherry fruit and meaty maturing notes, aromatic spicy and wild herby too, firm tannins still but ripe and rounded with some freshness too despite its full-bodied style, delicious mix of maturing vs rich vs structured, lots of flavour and long finish. Serious red. £27-£29 vinvm.co.uk, €20 cellar door.
Skouros St. George 2023 Nemea (13.5%) - 100% Agiorgitiko 12 months in French barriques. Very deep colour, lovely dark fruits on the nose, black cherry/berry with a hint of oak but it's well integrated, still quite firm with dry texture vs ripe and rounded mouthfeel; very tasty, more 'modern' style red. £15.50 Wine Society. $20 US, €18 cellar door.
Gaia Vinsanto by Gaia 8 Years Old NV Santorini (11%) - Mostly Assyrtiko (sun-dried grapes). Deep brown colour, raisin prune and toffee nose, super-rich caramel and prune flavours, intense lush and concentrated, so much flavour like Christmas pudding! Yet there is fresh acid cut and lingering length, more than just sweetness. Wow! £50-£60 vinvm.co.uk, strictlywine.co.uk, drinksdirect.com, winedirect.co.uk. €50 Greece.
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