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Wines of the moment 2005 - 2010 and Features archive 1998-2010

Wines of the moment 2005 - 2010

Updated regularly or occasionally as fits the mood, these everyday wines, new releases or sporadic superstars caught my attention for one reason or another. Not exactly a wine of the week or month but could be: hopefully more spontaneous than that. All these wines first appeared on the previous incarnation of WineWriting.com from 2005 to June 2010. From then onward, my 'wines of the moment' (now spanning more than a decade) have been posted individually on this blog, including any French Med specials originally featured on FrenchMediterraneanWine.com back in the day (which existed as a stand-alone blog for a few years).


GERMANY

1995 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, Mosel - impeccable balance of old petrol-y maturity, oily mineral characters, a touch of sweetness and steely tart finish. So much flavour and complexity yet only 7% alcohol! Tried thanks to Luc Charlier at Domaine Coume Majou, March 2010. 95-97

MOROCCO

2005 Celliers de Meknès L'Elixir des Empereurs Cuvée Juba II, Coteaux de l'Atlas (12.5%) - "sweet" maturing fruit with liquorice, prune, ripe blackcurrant and cinnamon notes too; smoky meaty vs ripe fruity flavours, quite soft and mature with subtly concentrated dried fruits and well-balanced finish. Couldn't find any info about this wine on their website but will add varieties etc if I do. Spring 2010. 87

ARGENTINA

2008 Finca la Linda Viognier Luigi Bosca Mendoza (14.5%) - appealing mix of rich, ripe and exotic peach/apricot fruit vs a fresher drier finish; fair weight and nice oily texture too making it a good foodie, e.g. goats' cheese & onion tart and especially the fresh breaded haddock. €22 Alexis bar & grill, Dublin. Feb 2010 87+

AUSTRIA

Weingut R&A Pfaffl 2008 Grüner Veltliner "Goldjoch" Niederösterreich (13%) - very aromatic and gummy with quince, white peach and gooseberry/kiwi fruit plus spicy & yeast-lees undertones; juicy and lively vs rounded/oily with fair depth and milky lees edges, finishing with refreshing acidity and peppery notes adding nice crisp length, coupled with zesty vs "sweet" fruit. Dec 2009 87-89
Profile on Pfaffl and more wines to follow.

ENGLAND

2006 Ridgeview Cuvée Merret Bloomsbury, Sussex (Chardonnay Pinot Noir & Pinot Meunier 12%) - consistently one of the best "traditional-method" English sparkling wines: this vintage is lightly toasty and oat-cakey with maturing fruit vs nice crisp acidity, tasty "sweet & savoury" flavours and fine poise; easily as good as many premium non-vintage, or vintage even, Champagnes. £20 Waitrose. Summer 2009 88-90

HUNGARY

1999 Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos Disznókő (11.5%, 12g total acidity, 165g/l residual sugar) - 99 is rated by Disznókő and others as "the vintage of the decade" in Tokaj. I first tasted this wine in October 2006 - see "articles archive" for the full report on that trip including loads more Disznókő wines - and again in February 2009. It obviously has decades left in it yet, as after re-reading my previous note, the wine hasn't changed much. Still shows huge amounts of absolutely delicious and lush-textured dried apricot and raisin fruit with exotic & spicy yet complex & savoury flavours; it's now a touch more oxidising in style (but not that much) with more apparent toffee and baked nut (pecan, walnut) notes; and still very intense, very concentrated and very lemony on the finish with that extraordinary acidity creating a tight framework and reining in the sweetness. Wow: I should've kept it for longer, then again it might outlive me and it was a good opportunity to share it. 95-97

SOUTH AFRICA

Spring 2010

2007 Secateurs Red and 2009 Secateurs Chenin Blanc, AA Badenhorst Family Wines, Malmesbury - as featured here on this blog.

Autumn 2009

2006 Bellingham Pinotage "with a dash of Petit Verdot," Coastal region (12% PV apparently, 14% alc.) - quirky little number showing pretty typical "sweet & sour" Pinotage characters, attractive spicy red pepper vs dark berries and toasty chocolate nose/palate; quite big and lush mouthfeel vs peppery bitter twist, fairly mature and well-balanced, firm vs ripe tannins. Very nice with lamb actually. €5.70 88

Winter 2008

2007 The Society's Pinotage, Bon Cap Organic Wines, Robertson (13.5%) - attractive 'sweet and sour' mix with crunchy black and red fruits tinged with charred chocolate oak and herbal undertones; spicy powerful mouth-feel v soft and lightly savoury/gamey, lush v bitter twist to finish. £6.50 (£78 case of 12). 87+

NEW ZEALAND

Summer 2008

2000 Dry River Estate, Gewurztraminer no. 1240 (13%) - dark golden colour with rich mature lychee and marmalade nose, complex and oily too; sweet-textured and off-dry mouth-feel leading on to still fresh acidity v nice oily quince fruit; unusual, a kind of mushroomy intricacy as well (but not corky/mouldy)! 90+

PORTUGAL

February 2008

2005 Quinta de Vargellas Vintage, Taylor's – enticing rich blackberry, damson and liquorice aromas enhanced by spicy alcohol (although not stinging) and fresh leather tones; pretty full-on lush sweet fruit v attractively ripe tannins, lending solid framework without any heavy extraction; submerged alcohol and nice peppery fruit make it surprisingly approachable now, yet its underlying structure and concentration indicate 5-10 years cellaring should reveal more. UK £25 / US $54. 90-92

Croft Pink Port, Fladgate Partnership/Taylor's – OK it's a clever logical stroke of marketing and looks great, but this 'port', for want of a better word, is quite attractive and a bit different; very aromatic red-fruity and rose petal nose moves onto fruity sweet palate cut nicely by the alcohol. £10 / $20. 85

CHILE

Spring-Summer 2009

Yali National Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley (14%) - intriguing slightly reductive herbal notes with lively cassis and light cinnamon / cedar, turning a touch savoury vs liquoricey vs tart fruit; quite punchy alcohol with dry yet nicely grained cinnamon / coconut tannins, rounded v powerful finish. Drinking now although should develop a little in bottle over the next year. After being open for a day, it gets fruitier and softer although still a tad clumsy at the end of the day. £6.99 Majestic (UK). 85-87

Winter 2008-2009

2008 Cono Sur Reserva Riesling, Bio Bio region (13.5%) - attractive white peach and floral lime aromas/flavours, nice weight and oily texture v crisp citrus and mineral bite, off-dry finish. £5.99 on offer at Tesco (UK). 87+

April 2007

2006 Tacón Alto Chardonnay, Viña Las Niñas, Colchagua Valley (14.5%) - chocolate oak tones suffused with white peach and pineapple, cleaner juicy fruit on the palate v toasty backdrop, freshness v power; nice with food, a bit heavy on its own. Worth it for the camp orange 'shoebox'; at least, if you buy two bottles... I assume this means high heel in Spanish? 87

Feb 2007

2005 Aconcagua Pinot Noir, Viña Carmen (14%) - seductive 'sweet and savoury' aromas showing herbal red pepper, raspberry and cherry v complex truffle undertones; ripe v tangy fruit, silky and maturing yet quite firm and fresh. Good with lamb shank. £7.99 The Vine King, Reigate (Surrey, England). 88-90

2006 Tesco Finest Sauvignon Blanc, Viña Ventisquero; Casablanca Valley (14%) - vibrant pure, gooseberry and citrus fruit with zesty crisp structure; ripe & oily with green edges, juicy fresh finish. Allegedly half price: not really worth £7.99, obviously great value at £3.99. 87

AUSTRALIA

Summer-autumn 2008

2006 Howcroft Estate Cabernet Merlot, Limestone Coast, South Australia (13.5%) - nice cassis, raisin and dried plum aromas and flavours; quite understated or elegant even, despite having a little punch, although it's somehow a touch dilute; but it finishes with seductive maturing sweet v savoury fruit and soft texture. Supposedly half-price at £3.99, which is definitely great value although it wasn't worth £7.99 in the first place. Tesco Finest. 87

May 2006

2005 Riesling Pirie South, Tasmania - tight and floral with zesty mineral underbelly, light and fine. 89
2005 Chardonnay Pirie South, Tasmania - delicate creamy tones mix with intricate green-edged peachy fruit; again tight, steely and fresh. 89
More Oz wines like this please!

ITALY

Spring 2009

2005 Piccini Gran Selezione Oro Chianti Riserva (95% Sangiovese 5% Merlot 13.5%) - nice traditional style showing smoky tobacco and fig notes with dried cherries and a hint of balsamic; quite lush and concentrated, tasty ripe v savoury fruit set on a touch of firm tannins and fresh acidity, 'sweetness' v spice on its well-balanced finish. Second day - more of those volatile balsamic notes and tobacco / leather v 'sweet' and savoury; softer palate, still tasty although beginning to fade a little. Mature now but it won't drop dead soon. Good with mushroom, basil and Comté risotto (with some of the wine in it too). Perhaps a bit dear at £9.99, then again Tesco (UK) is giving it away for a Fiver until 13th May 2009. 87-89
2008 Alta Italia 'Vigneti' Pinot Grigio, Cavit, Valdadige (12.5%) - attractive superior PG with lots of honeyed v spicy fruit and zesty gummy mouth-feel, tasty with slightly oily texture v fresh crisp finish. Better than a lot of PG sloshing around (and actually tastes like PG), although a bit dear at £7.99 (Tesco). 85+

Summer 2008

2007 Villa Flora Lugana DOC, Zenato (Trebbiano de Lugana 13%) - quite intricate and concentrated dry white from near Lake Garda in the north. White nectarine and greengage fruit with mineral/vegetal fennel-like notes; fairly full and rounded showing maturing fruit flavours yet still quite lively and refreshing on the finish too. Waitrose £6.99. 87+

April 2006

2003 Barbera d'Alba superiore Bricco Airoli, Giovanni Viberti, Piemonte (northwest) (13%) - first rate example of new wave Barbera: pretty dense and chunky with attractive earthy plum fruit, shows some firmness and fresh acidity nicely rounded out by subtle background oak on its long finish. 90+

March 06

2004 Pinot Grigio, Tenuta Ca' Vescovo, Friuli Aquileia (northeast) (12%) - juicy spiced honey fruit with oily mineral notes, quite richly textured mouth-feel and still showing nice freshness on the finish. €5 85+

FRANCE

Summer 2010

2009 Château La Grave red Minervois (Syrah, Grenache, Carignan) - vibrant spicy black cherry, cassis and liquorice; juicy, fairly easy with soft-ish palate and nice fruity finish. €5.90 cellar door, £6.95 Stone Vine & Sun. 85+

Spring 2010

2007 Castel Fossibus red Faugères Domaine Ollier Taillefer (Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Mourvèdre 13.5%) - spicy floral herby vs vibrant black cherry notes underlined by a touch of smoky development; well-handled mix of light oak spice, good fruit and attractive tannins on the palate. €12.50 87-89

2007 Expression Brut Crémant de Limoux Antech (Mauzac, Chardonnay, Chenin 12%) - quite fine fizz (especially at this price) with subtle toasted yeast tones vs creamier fruit vs quite zingy citrus; elegant bubbles with nice bready vs fruity vs oily, off-dry finish. €5.50 87
More Limoux bubbles here.

2009 Côtes du Roussillon rosé Château Pézilla (Syrah, Grenache, Carignan 13%) - vivid deep red cherry colour preempts its lively aromatic red cherry and raspberry fruit; zesty juicy palate, nice fruity finish vs crisp twist. €3.30 85

2007 Carnache Corbières-Boutenac Château Maylandie (Carignan/Grenache 13.5%) - black cherry, damson and cassis with smoky spicy tones, hints of tobacco and light vanilla/coconut too; attractive thick coating of dark chocolate, berries, liquorice and chunky dry tannins; quite concentrated and powerful with dense fruit, sweet vs meaty finish and lively, light coconut grip. Needs a few months in bottle to round out a little, yet pretty promising. March. 89-91

Winter 2009/2010

2006 Cuvée l'olivette Pic-Saint-Loup Clos Marie (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) - smoky and lush showing nice depth and weight, pretty chunky tannins adding dry texture and bitter twist/bite; fair oomph and grip vs dark cherry liquorice and tobacco, needs a year or so to come together fully. Turns a tad rustic and leather-tinged with very firm framework, but its solid trad Languedoc style seduces you in the end. A bit dear though @ €12.50. 88

2008 "One Block" Côtes du Roussillon Domaine Treloar (mostly Grenache, Syrah 13.5%) - nice upfront chunky, spicy and lightly smoky style; showing lush dark cherry and liquorice vs tad of spicy wood texture and dry grip, then lively peppery dried black fruit finish. Approx €7.50 France, €9.50 Germany, £10 UK. 87+

2008 Touraine-Mesland blanc Clos Château Gaillard (80% Chenin blanc 20% Chardonnay 12.5% alc, biodynamic) - intriguing dry white from an obscure little wine region on the Loire found between Tours and Blois. Nutty appley nose enhanced by more exotic, botrytis even (?) notes; attractive rounded oily palate underpinned by refreshing appley bite, subtly zesty/leesy intensity turning nuttier, creamier and, in the end, towards "fino" tones. Auchan €6.50. 89

2008 Le Rosé Côtes du Brulhois Clos Pountet (Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Tannat 12%; converting to organic) - another equally obscure wine area although in the southwest, between Agen and Auch. Lively rosé style with a refreshing crisp edge nicely balanced out by an elegantly creamy, red-fruit cocktail. Makes me want to find out about their reds too... c. €3.50. 85

2008 Montagny "Les Crets" Domaine Feuillat-Juillot (Burgundy, Chardonnay 13%) - fairly lean and closed up at first, slowly revealing subtle creaminess vs juicy citrus fruit vs more celery/mineral-like edges; quite fine, crisp and tight on the finish with underlying rounded/buttery/oily tones reminiscent of good Chablis. Value @ €5.29 (Champion/Carrefour "wine fair" leftover, not for long though...). 87+

2008 Tautavel Côtes du Roussillon Villages Domaine des Trois Vallées (Syrah, Grenache, Carignan) - quite chocolate oaky to start, but it has nice rich fruit too showing liquorice and spicy floral notes; attractive combo of dry grip and refreshing bite on the finish. 87+

2007 Elégant Carignan "vieilles vignes" Domaine Mastrió vin de pays des Côtes Catalanes (13.5%) - aromatic, floral even, blueberry fruit on nose and palate; shows nice elegance vs intensity, rich and ripe vs spicy with subtle oak notes; attractive texture and length too. 90+

2005 Carinyana 1878 Domaine Puig-Parahÿ Roussillon (very old Carignan 14.5%) - a touch stewed/oxidised although attractively mature and meaty/savoury with caramel and tobacco notes too; quirky old style turning more attractive with a bit of air (despite its apparent rapid development) with nice soft liquorice finish vs peppery notes too. 85+

Above wine discovered at a Domaine Treloar wine club "themed" tasting evening (lots more Roussillon here and here). It also prompted me to go and see Georges Puig down in Passa: full profile and tasting notes on 'French Catalonia Wine', including a red Rivesaltes (Vin Doux Naturel) from 1945!

2008 Pinot Noir Domaine de la Rotisserie Haut-Poitou (14%) - subdued and subtle to start, this deep rosé style shows very lightly creamy red fruits set on a crisp tight palate, finishing with "sweeter" rounder mouthfeel probably thanks to that 14% although it does hide it well. 85

2008 Trémoine de Rasiguères rosé Côtes du Roussillon (13.5%) - less chunky and red than the 2007 but still a big fruity winter rosé, with weighty oily mouthfeel vs lively refreshing red fruit finish and light bitter twist too. €5.90 87

Autumn 2009

Primeur wines (meaning barely fermented and bottled...)

2009 Corolle Producteurs Plaimont Côtes du Condomois (tee hee... Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon 12%) - actually a pretty "winey" rosé (as opposed to a chemistry lab of estery substances like some of these nouveau "wines") with big colour and red fruity style; zingy gummy aromatic cherry blossom followed by lively crunchy fruit finish. €4.25 Nicolas shops and restaurants in France, various northern European countries and China. 80-85

A couple of other new-release 2009s, which are drinkable enough: Plaimont's Colombelle, a screamingly aromatic and zesty, off-dry white Côtes de Gascogne little number (€4 available almost world-wide apparently); and an IGP (the new vin de pays category) Gamay from the Ardèche region (southern Rhone/northern Provence) called Modestine, like Beaujolais nouveau but a tad fuller and without the rough edges (€3.20).

2008 Terrassous rosé Vignerons de Terrats Côtes du Roussillon (13%) - quite chunky vs creamy red fruit cocktail making this a good all-round foodie rosé style; rounded and oily with wild cherry fruit and refreshing dry finish. €4.50 87

2008 Vieilles Vignes rosé Arnaud de Villeneuve Côtes du Roussillon (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre 13%) - pretty red rosé, fairly full bodied rounded style with quite lush raspberry/strawberry fruit and "vinous" oily mouthfeel vs dry and crisp. €4+ 85

2005 Alsace Riesling Domaine Dopff (Dopff au Moulin, 12.5%) - lovely nose with floral white peach and developing linseed oil notes; delicate yet quite intense mouthfeel moving on to oilier texture and flavours, and finishing with subtle underlying mineral bite. Drink now although it's still fresh enough to keep for a couple of years or so. €6.50 87-89

2008 Pesque Lune rosé Vignerons de Correns, vin de pays d'Argens (organic, 13%) - closet dry Provence rosé style with delicate red fruits and roses, juicy palate with nice zingy citrus fruit blast and refreshing finish. Good value for €2.99. 82-84

Summer 2009

2008 Muscat sec Domaine de l'Arca vin de pays des Côtes Catalanes (12.5%) - simple but well-done, attractive aromatic dry Muscat style with grapey citrus characters; yet also has nice zesty, floral and mineral / oily notes and texture giving it an almost Riesling like profile. €3.90 Casino. 80-85

These two reds were discovered at a Domaine Treloar wine club "themed" tasting:
2005 Minervois rouge Château de Puicheric - quite rich blackberry nose with spicy tones and a hint of toasty oak; well-made with a bit of character and nice fruit, weight and rounded tannins; turning more savoury with airing vs underlying liquorice 'sweetness'. Drink now although may improve for another year or two. €6.99 87+

2003 Minervois rouge Domaine Lignon - maturing smoky notes with tobacco and leather vs herby edges, fairly intricate mix turning more rustic and liquoricey; lush smooth mouthfeel with tasty savoury finish, quite punchy alcohol (although not over the top for a heat-wave 2003) but otherwise has concentrated lingering flavours and complex long finish. €11 89-91

2008 Bergerac rosé Château Riffaud (12.5%) - deliciously drinkable and refreshing style with plenty of ripe creamy red fruits and silky texture vs crisp acidity and zingy length. €3.50-€4 87
2005 Monbazillac Château Le Fagé (Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon Muscadelle 14%) - sumptuous, well-balanced, high-quality sweet wine with seductive dried apricot and spicy botrytis nose; luscious sweet oily palate with subtle oak adding background texture, complex lingering dried fruits and honey cut by lively orange peel acidity. Drinking now but will keep for 5-10 years probably. €4 a glass in Le Romarin (wine bar/café/restaurant), 2 Rue de la Clarté, Périgueux (Dordogne). 90+

Winter / spring 2009

2004 Faugères Château Haut Fabrègues (Grenache Mourvèdre Syrah 13.5%) - smoky maturing nose showing 'sweet' black fruits & damsons with shades of leather, liquorice and baked wild herbs too; quite rustic and 'inky' but it's nicely thick-textured with dense fruit and quite dry yet softening tannins; attractive drinking now, probably at its best although not lacking in substance and raw character. €5.50 87+

2001 Corbières rouge Domaine de la Grange - complex and smoky with herbal dried fruits, roast beef and black olives too; quite concentrated and tasty with savoury leather notes, still slightly firm tannins v 'sweet' mature fruit, nice liquorice v meaty gravy finish. Drinking very nicely now although it's not going to die tomorrow. €6 Cave de St-Guilhem in Cabestany (nr. Perpignan), tasted Feb. 2009 at Domaine Treloar's Wine Club. 90+

2008 Côtes du Roussillon rosé Dom Brial / Cave de Baixas (Syrah Grenache 13%) - classic storming Roussillon rosé style, deep coloured with a light touch of tannin adding dry texture; 'winey' aromatic and crunchy red fruits with rose petal edges, juicy and zingy with chunky fruity mouth-feel and full dry finish. Nice foodie (e.g. hake fillet in Provencal sauce). €4.19 87+

2007 Chablis, Simonnet-Febvre (Chardonnay 12.5%) - you know how sometimes you really fancy a nice Chablis but are then disappointed having splashed out a little? Well, you won't be with this one. All the hallmarks which make that classic Chablis style so distinctive - attractive subtle balance of slightly exotic, buttery fruit v elusive greener, citrus mineral edges; elegant and tasty with fresh acidity lifting it up on the finish, making it good with smoked haddock even. €8 89
More Simonnet-Febvre wines to follow in the 'archive'.

Winter 2008

2007 Les Champs Bordelais Sauvignon Blanc, Guy Anderson Wines / Vignerons de Tutiac (12.5%) - quite intense gooseberry, blackcurrant and citrus aromas; lively crisp mouth-feel, fairly concentrated and oily textured v dry mineral bite. Nice mouthful of flavour, although coming back to it the next day, the fruit's just beginning to fade a little; so drink it up over Christmas & New Year (which shouldn't be too difficult, in moderation of course!). £5.99 Asda - on offer for £5 until 24th December. 87

2006 Cuvée des Hospices Catalans Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Guy Anderson Wines / Domaine Cazes (Carignan Grenache Syrah 14.5%) - attractive fragrant black cherry, cassis and blueberry with liquorice overtones and lightly earthy/peppery notes; punchy palate with lively juicy fruit v light bitter chocolate tannins adding a bit of grip, otherwise it's quite soft with a warming finish. Gets smoother and richer with 24 hours airing and less earthy / peppery. Nice with lamb steak or roasted Mediterranean vegetables; and even a chunky piece of fresh, pepper-crusted tuna. £8.99 Thresher - buy 2 get the 3rd free (= £5.99). 87-89

Autumn 2008

2007 Côtes du Roussillon blanc Mas Llaro / Maison Lafage (13%) - nice dry white with a bit of character and weight too: floral nutty notes v oilier texture, still quite fresh. €3.20 83-85

2007 Côtes du Roussillon rouge Domaine de la Chique / Hervé Bizeul & Associés (Grenache Carignan 13.5%) - countersigned by Mr. Clos des Fées himself, this is well-made and tasty with plenty of ripe black fruits with dark chocolate, fig and coffee undertones; fair weight and grip but nice fruity drinking at the same time. €4.95 87

2007 Collioure Tradition: Jacques Py, Domaine de la Marquise (14%) - spicy vibrant and floral black fruits with liquorice, light leather notes and dark chocolate edges; big powerful mouthful with nice depth and style, dry v ripe tannins / texture, 'sweet' v savoury touches; not so subtle perhaps but I like its immediate fruit and chunky structure. €6 89

2006 Wolfberger Riesling Alsace, Cave d'Eguisheim (a co-op partnership in fact, more info @ www.wolfberger.com) 12% - pretty typical delicate dry Riesling style: zesty and mineral v floral linseed oil and citrus notes; dry and crisp with attractive oily chalky texture. Bargain €3.99. 87

2005 Riesling Alsace Domaine Les Grès d'Or, Maurice Gaering (12.5%) - more complex and stylish with maturing linseed oil aromas and texture, elegant flowery tropical lime fruit with fresh intensity and length. Bargain €4.37. 89

Summer 2008

2007 Le Rosé de Terrassous Côtes du Roussillon, Les Vignerons de Terrats (13%) - fairly chunky red fruity style with nice food-demanding weight, turning rounded and slick with underlying wild red fruit and biscuit notes; still alive and well. €4 87

2007 Ressac Viognier Vin de Pays d'Oc, Cave de Florensac (12.5%) - attractively lively and aromatic still with lightly exotic apricot and citrus fruits; oily v juicy mouth-feel, a lighter style of Viognier with nice fruit; went well with a fish Jalfezi curry. €4.99. 85+

2005 Cuvée Prestige Bordeaux Supérieur, Château de La Ligne (Merlot Cabernets 12.5%) - attractive cassis and plum with light red pepper edged with smoky, chocolatey & cedary oak; quite dense and concentrated with dry textured tannins, medium weight, nice bite & length. Quite oaky at first but the wine has good depth of fruit and that oak lifts off a little with air, revealing some tangier fruit, coated tannins and underlying fresh acidity. After one day open, it gets fruitier and more interesting; a good match for boudin noir (black pudding)! €7 ex-cellar. 89

Spring - summer 2008

2007 Trémoine de Rasiguères rosé, Côtes du Roussillon (14%) - nearer red than rosé in colour, this has chunky aromatic & spicy raspberry/strawberry/cherry fruit with lovely oily texture, pretty potent alcohol yet fresh dry finish too. Serious quintessential Roussillon foodie rosé, it went well with two different restaurant duck dishes; also try with anchovies, grilled Med veggies etc. 87+

2005 Cahors Tradition, Château de Gaudou (80% Malbec plus Merlot & Tannat 13%) - a bit closed and stalky (although the cork smelt a bit dusty but the wine didn't seem corked?) to start, becoming more rustic/savoury with a bit of air and revealing plum red/blackcurrant and cherry fruit; subtle concentration and weight v firm yet textured tannins, fresh aromatic finish v chunky and dry with a touch of 'sweetness' v savoury soy sauce flavours too. €5.50 87-89
More Cahors wines below.

Winter 2007/08

2005 Les Serrottes, Vin de Pays d'Oc: La Grange de Quatre Sous (Hildegard Horat-Diop) - very appealing mix of cassis (I think there's some Cab in it?), black cherry, light liquorice and earthy smoky undertones; concentrated and lush palate v firm tannins and commanding mouth-feel (14.5%), tight but not rigid finish with nice coating of fruit v dry grip. Thanks to Isabelle Champart for giving me this bottle and thereby discovering this estate. 88-90

Summer/autumn 2007

2005 Caramany Sélection Vieilles Vignes, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, les Vignerons de Cassagnes-Bélesta (14.5%) - light coconut and cinnamon toasted notes v floral dark cherries and liquorice; powerful, firm and dry palate v lush fruit with dark chocolate twist. A little clumsy perhaps, but a good mouthful of wine for €5. 87

2006 Le Rosé de Terrassous, Côtes du Roussillon, les Vignerons de Terrats (13%) - lively raspberry fruit and full body v elegant, fresh and attractive style. €3-€4 87

2005 Cahors, Château de Grezels (Malbec Merlot 13%) - needed an hour's aeration to open up the aromas and firm tannins, otherwise shows nice mix of crunchy red/black fruits and lightly leafy intricacy. €4-€5 85

Tête de Cuvée Crémant de Limoux, Marquis de Dompey (AKA Divin'Aude, 12.5%) - inconsistency on the cork front - some bottles slightly musty - but when it's right, this is great value for €3.49 (good old Lidl): attractive creamy yeasty apple and pineapple flavours dissolve into its frothy, invigorating and off-dry whole. 87

2005 Sélection des Vignerons de Maury, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Syrah Grenache Carignan 13%) - nice vibrant spicy perfumed black cherry and liquorice aromas lead on to a juicy smoky palate v solid dry grip; good balance between power and quite fine finish. Went down well with fillet steak. €3.50-€4 87-89

2004 Cuvée des Fontanilles Fitou, Domaine du Capitat (13%) - quite rustic and leathery but has nice fruit and grip underneath, then a more elegant finish than it first suggests. €4 83-85

2006 Côtes du Roussillon rosé, Cave des Vignerons de Lesquerde (Syrah Grenache Cinsault Carignan 13%) - pretty typical Roussillon rosé style with plenty of red fruits v zesty dry finish. €3.50 85

2006 Arnaud de Villeneuve vieilles vignes blanc, Côtes du Roussillon (Macabeu Grenache Blanc Malvoisie 13%) - surprisingly nice, dry white wine offering all the zingy freshness you'd want in one mouthful (although it loses its appeal slightly if served anything but cold); coupled with fairly weighty, oily texture. 83-85

April 2007

2006 Minervois blanc, Jean d'Alibert, Languedoc (Grenache Blanc Marsanne 13%, screwcap) - attractive mix of zesty citrus and honeyed roundness, zingy crisp and mineral v fatter texture too. Under €3 87

2002 Fronton rouge, Comte de Négret (Négrette 12%) - this is a rare local variety from the southwest; mature savoury fruit, soy & plum, sun-dried tomato v leather and tobacco, light dry grip. Good with rabbit stew. €3.50 87

March 2007

2006 Rasiguères rosé, Vignerons Catalans; Côtes du Roussillon (13.5%) - the latest vintage of this serious rosé doesn't disappoint: deep pink/light cherry colour, youthful fresh and lively with subtle rose petal and morello cherry tones; very zingy with crisp bite and tight length, citrus v red fruit weight v lively finish. Needs a couple of months to fill out. Try with prawn and spinach madras. €4.50 87-89

2005 Le Passé Authentique, Cave de Plaimont; Côte de St-Mont - this reliable producer in the southwest knows how to make interesting dry white wine from local varieties such as Petit and Gros Manseng: steely mineral & celeriac intensity v concentrated creamy depth of fruit, fresh bite and length v maturing complexity. €5 87-89

Feb 2007

1999 Margaux, Château Rauzan-Gassies, 2nd Cru Classé (12.5%) - smoky developing nose with complex leaf and tobacco notes; medium full with subtle concentration and not so firm tannins, quite elegant with more charm than some 99 Médoc (although Margaux was more successful this vintage, it appears). Opened by an old friend (thanks Andrew!), actually drinking quite well now and over the next couple of years or so. 90

January 2007

2005 Chablis, Domaine Côte Marjac (Chardonnay, 12.5%) - very drinkable, classic style Chabbers: nice aromatic white peach and citrus notes, fresh lively palate turning subtly creamy and full v tight mineral acidity. Looks like Brocard under a different name. €7 87-90

2002 Tradition Côtes du Roussillon, Château las Collas (13.5%) - attractive raisin and fig fruit edged with earthy maturing notes and tangier purple plum; quite concentrated and rich v extracted coating of dry tannins, good depth and balance for a 2002 (lesser vintage in the south), still grippy yet has plenty of ripeness and earthy developed fruit. Good with spicy Turkish sausages (beef and mustard). €6 87-90

November-December 2006

2004 Merlot, Vignobles de Carsac, vin de pays d'Oc (13.5%) - smoky plummy fruit set against light toasty notes, full and quite lush yet has attractive bitter twist too. 85+

2004 Riesling Steinweg, Jean Geiler - Cave d'Ingersheim, Alsace (12.5%) - elegant perfumed style with oily mineral backdrop, a touch of richness v celery notes and nice acidity. 87+

2005 Chinon, Domaine de la Semellerie (Cabernet Franc, 12.5%) - good example of this under-appreciated style from a ripe year in the Loire Valley: rounded yet crunchy blueberry fruit v intricate savoury flavours and subtle tannins/acidity. 87

2005 Saumur blanc, Les Besseries (Chenin Blanc) - zesty fresh melon fruit and mineral acid intensity, lovely roundness and ripe mouth-feel v crisp length. Under €4 89

2004 La Roque, Domaine la Pléiade, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Syrah Grenache Carignan, 13.5%) - attractive black cherry and liquorice fruit with light leather and cedar, plummy and quite lush mouth-feel v dry firm finish. Bargain at €3: 87+

2004 Gewurztraminer, Dopff au Moulin, Alsace (13%) - classy Gewurz, much zestier and drier than many; aromatic rose water notes lead to quite concentrated yet elegant flavours, nice length and style. Under €5 in Auchan, must be a mistake... 89

2000 Côtes du Roussillon, Domaine de l'Auris (mostly Syrah, 12.5%) - attractive traditional style with maturing, earthy leather notes and minty cassis; dried black cherry fruit turning savoury on a fairly elegant palate, light dry tannin on the finish. €4 85+

September-October 06

2004 Picpoul de Pinet, Mas Puech, Languedoc (12.5%) - delicious complex dry white, zesty v oily & concentrated with long mineral finish. 87+

2005 Dom Brial rosé, Côtes du Roussillon (Syrah Grenache, 13.5%) - textbook weightier Roussillon rosé with big fruit and texture yet fresh crisp finish. 87+

2004 Gewurztraminer Sélection, Cave de Turckheim, Alsace (13.5%) - intense classic Gewurz, exotic honey and spice with fragrant lychees; pretty concentrated, rich and oily v fresher off-dry finish. Nice with curry. €5.70 87

2005 Latour de France Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Domaine Bousquet (Syrah Carignan, 13.5%) - youthful purple with fresh floral black cherry fruit, up-front and attractive; juicy fruit & soft mouth-feel v light tannin texture, drinking well already but worth keeping for a year. Great value at €3.75: 87

2005 Caramany Côtes du Roussillon Villages, les Vignerons Catalans (Syrah Carignan Grenache, 13%) - deep purple ("smoke on the water...") black colour, very fruity with white pepper and earthy notes, very light oak backdrop; fairly rich and ripe black & red fruits, firm tight & elegant finish. 87+

2003 Cuvée des Presbytes, Caramany Côtes du Roussillon Villages; Vignerons de Cassagnes-Bélesta - lovely peppery pure blackberry/cherry fruit, quite rich and rounded with tobacco edges and dry grip; well-balanced attractive wine. €10 for half bottle in a restaurant: 87-89

2006 Primeur Catalan Syrah-Merlot, vin de pays d'Oc (13%) - pleasant enough, Beaujolais nouveau type - but with more oomph - fruity quaffer; not really my taste, I prefer the white below. 75-80

2006 Primeur Catalan Muscat-Viognier, vin de pays d'Oc (13%) - the latest funkily packaged release from those cunning Vignerons Catalans is very floral and zingy with nice grapey apricot notes, crisp and refreshing; drink it cold "juste comme ça," as the French might say... 83-85

2005 Chardonnay, Mas Sauvy, Vin de Pays d'Oc (13%) - expressive tasty Chardy with plenty of peach and pear fruit, lightly buttery then fresh and crisp. €5.50 87+

July-August 06

2005 Vin Gris du Maroc, Domaine de Sahari, Guerrouane AOC (13.5%) - attractive elegant juicy fruit, generous palate v crisp and dry, ripe & full v restrained style. 85-87

2005 Côtes de Saint-Mont blanc, Vignoble de Gascogne (Gros Manseng Petit Manseng Arrufiac Petit Courbu 13%) - refreshingly different dry white offering kiwis and gooseberries filled out by fatter creamy flavours, quite weighty then fresh mineral finish. €3 85-87

2005 Le Pot rosé, Dom Brial/Vignerons de Baixas, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon 12.5%) - the 05 is up to the usual standard: lots of raspberry and redcurrant fruit, quite weighty and concentrated finishing zesty and dry. €3.50 87

2005 Côtes du Rhône rosé, Château Plau (13%) - attractive creamy red fruits and spice style, fair mouthful with full dry food-demanding finish. 85-87

2005 Côtes du Rhône rosé, Château Joanny (Cinsault Grenache Mourvèdre 13%) - similar to above but a little finer and more intense. 87

2004 Saumur blanc, Les Besseries - very appealing style worth seeking out if you're bored of Chardy etc. Subtle mouth-coating honeyed fruit gives way to aromatic celery and white pepper minerality with dry-ish bite. 87

2001 Côtes du Roussillon rouge, Domaine du Mas Alart (13%) - complex maturing meaty tones layered on liquorice and red pepper fruit, soft and ready to drink with a little dry tannin left to finish. Approx €4.50 89

Fruité Salvat - bright funky easy-drinking range from Domaine Salvat in the Fenouillèdes region, Roussillon: 2005 red, white and rosé Vins de Pays, well made straightforward enjoyment wines. €2.70 80-85

2004 Chablis les Manants, Brocard (Chardonnay 12.5%) - exemplary style showing elegant ripeness and creaminess v restrained green fruit and mineral edges. €7 89

2005 Rosé de la Chevalière, Laroche, Vin de Pays d'Oc (12.5%) - sunny and fruity v fresher zingy tones, easy-drinking and good with simple food. 85

May-June 06

2005 Le Rosé de Terrassous, Cave de Terrats, Côtes du Roussillon (French Catalonia) - fresh aromatic roses and red fruits, tight elegant palate, zesty and dry. €3.82 Auchan 87+

2005 Chasse du Pape Syrah rosé, Gabriel Meffre, Vin de Pays d'Oc (12.5%) - attractive red-leaning style, medium weight v zingy very dry finish. £4.99 Asda & Sainsbury's (on offer at £3.99 from 21st June to 18th July at JS) 85+

2005 Côtes de Saint-Mont rosé, Vignoble de Gascogne (12.5%) - deliciously lively rosé from the southwest: fresh raspberry and redcurrant tanginess v lightly creamy rounded mouthfeel, then crisp and dry finish. €3 85-87

2005 Fronton rosé, Comte de Négret (Négrette, 12%) - also from the southwest (Négrette is rare local variety by the way), similar style to the above with deeper colour and fresher bite v nice fruit. €3-3.50 87

2005 Rasiguères rosé, Vignerons de Planèzes-Rasiguères, Côtes du Roussillon (13.5%) - serious and chunky, aromatic rich fruit with fresh acidity and touch of dry tannin, weighty and long; food rosé. €4.50 89

2005 Alsace Pinot Noir, Jean Biecher - perfumed raspberry fruit with a more savoury tangy palate, zesty and refreshing with light tannins. €3 Lidl 85+

2005 Coteaux Varois en Provence rosé, Château de l'Escarelle (12.5%) - just pink salmon colour, refreshing elegant style with zingy juicy fruit and nice intensity. 87

April 06

2003 Latour de France, Vignerons Catalans, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Grenache & Syrah, 13%) - nice example of rich smoky liquorice Grenache with a bit of Syrah perfume and dry grip, quite powerful yet fairly soft too. €4.60 85-87

1991 Cuvée Fernand Vaquer red, Frédérique et Bernard Vaquer, Vin de Pays Catalan (Carignan Grenache 13%) - mature smoky nose with seductive fig and savoury notes, soft ripe fruit and tannins, still showing elegant concentration and signs of life; drinking nicely now but won't do it any harm by keeping for another 1-2 years even. €10-12 90+

2005 Minervois blanc, Jean d'Alibert, Languedoc (Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc & Roussanne, 12.5%) - attractive perfumed citrus and white peach aromas and flavours, zesty floral and crisp with lively finish. Screw capped (still rare in France), very good value. €2.50 85-87

February 06

2004 Fronton rosé , Château Marguerite, the southwest (Négrette & Syrah, 12.5%) - bags of sumptuous red fruits on nose and palate, good concentration and tighter crisper finish than you might first expect. €3 87

2004 Trémoine de Rasiguères rosé, Vignerons de Planèzes-Rasiguères, Côtes du Roussillon (13%) - redder than rosé with full bodied spiced strawberry fruit, shows a tad of dry grip too; a food rosé rather than a quaffer, try with sardines or anchovies. €5 85

2004 Muscat d'Alexandrie sec, Domaine Rossignol, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Muscat, 13%) - yet another exciting example (see below) of a dry, crisp and mineral Muscat; this one is quite concentrated too with good length, try with Thai food. €4 89

December 05 - January 06

2005 Blanc de Blancs de Terrassous, Vignerons de Terrats (Grenache Blanc Vermentino Macabeo 13%) - tight and steely at this stage, subtle zesty intensity v attractive oily nutty tones, crisp and dry. 88

2005 Muscat Sec, René Sahonet, Vin de Pays Côtes Catalanes (Muscat, 12.5%) - sound example of this crisp dry style that Roussillon growers are proving very good at; lots of fresh aromatic grapey Muscat fruit, also shows a bit of bite and bitter orange characters on the finish. €3.75 87

2005 Le Primeur Dry Muscat Sec, Dom Brial/Vignerons de Baixas, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Muscat, 13%) - located up the road up bit from the above, shows similar approach and intensity, perhaps a little more concentrated and classy. €4 88

2004 Le Pot rosé, Dom Brial/Vignerons de Baixas, Vin de Pays d'Oc (Syrah & Cabernet Sauvignon) - attractive compote of raspberry and redcurrant fruit, quite weighty mouthfeel, finishing crisper and dry. €3.50 87

2003 Riesling cuvée prestige, Rebmann, Alsace (Riesling, 12%) - perfumed white peach and lime blossom, fairly soft palate with subtle mineral depth and off-dry finish. €5.40 87

2003 Chablis La Paulière, Jean Durup et Fils (Chardonnay, 12.5%) - classic style and class, offering elegantly rounded, buttery and creamy fruit tempered by fresh mineral bite and length. €8.50 90

2003 Chablis, Domaine Dauvissat (Chardonnay, 12.5%) - a touch leaner and less weighty than the above; however, still a nice example of what you'd expect from Chablis at a very good price. €4.99 85

2003 Vacqueyras 'Vicomte de Lignac', Caves du Fournalet, southern Rhône (Grenache, Syrah & Mourvèdre, 13.5%) - attractive warm, ripe and spicy black fruits and liquorice with background leathery, rustic touches; big yet restrained mouthful, dry rounded tannins. €5.25 87

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Domaine de Vézian, Vin de Pays Côtes Catalanes (Cabernet Sauvignon, 12.5%) - pretty chunky and earthy blackcurrant/cherry fruit wrapped in quite firm tannins, perhaps a touch unripe in the end but still has some charm. €3-4 85

2004 'Les Vieilles Vignes' Côtes du Rhône, Cave de Sablet (Grenache & Syrah, 14%) - well made modern cooperative CdR i.e. pure, floral and spicy black cherry fruit, juicy palate with nice tannins and warmth to finish. 87

2004 Minervois blanc, Château d'Agel, Languedoc (Macabeu & Muscat, 13%) - a pleasant surprise, given that Minervois isn't famous for whites: fairly rich oily textured palate balanced by lively aromatic fruit. €3-4 88

2004 Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Mas Jaume (Carignan, Grenache & Syrah, 14%) - upfront chunky black cherry, raisin and wild herbs; quite big in the mouth yet ends up softer and rounded. €3-4 87

2004 'Fenouill' rosé, Domaine Salvat, Vin de Pays Côtes Catalanes (Syrah & Cabernet Sauvignon, 12.5%) - jammy ripe raspberry and strawberry fruit; juicy, rounded and dry finish. €3.50 85

Bordes rosé, Olivier & Roland Gessier, Vin de Pays Gascogne (12%) - easy drinking style with floral 'sweet' raspberry fruit then crisp tangy length. 80-85

SPAIN

Summer 2010

2009 Storks' Tower Tempranillo/Shiraz rosé vino de la tierra de Castilla y Léon (12.5%) - spirited tasty dryish rosé with lots of nice juicy raspberry and other red fruits, spicy and tangy with crisp vs creamy finish. £5 Tesco (UK). 83-85

Winter 2010

2009 Viña Extrísima rosado Bach Catalunya (Cabernet sauvignon, Tempranillo, Merlot 12.5%) - lively deep red colour and fruit profile, nicely combining that youthful "boiled sweets" thing (that's rosé winemaking for you) with creamier ripe raspberry flavours, fair bit of body too then crisp dry finish. Bargain at under €3! 85+

Castellblanch Brut Zero - Brut Nature Cava NV (11.5%) - intricate enticing nose showing subtle bready/oat-cakey and lightly roasted almond aromas; similar flavours on the palate with attractive oily nutty texture and very dry, crisp appley finish. Quite classy fizz for the money: €5! 87-89

Autumn 2009

Cava Brut Nature Mont Bató Castell de Vilarnau (11.5%) - ridiculously good for the price, this delicate and quite stylish sparkler has plenty of fine bubbles with enticing baked apple and yeasty biscuit aromas / flavours; nice toasty oaty coating and almost rounded texture vs crisp refreshing appley finish. Apparently it was disgorged on 29/6/09, although not very useful without knowing the date it started its second fermentation... Value! €3.99 Bon Preu own-label (Catalan supermarket). 87+

Winter 2008

Gran Familia Rioja, Rioja Alta, Guy Anderson Wines / Bodegas Castillo de Fuenmayor (Tempranillo Graciano 12.5%) - pretty oaky nose to start but it does have that silky mulled fruit Rioja style, with smoky cassis and raspberry notes; dry coating of tannins v spicy 'sweetness', quite attractive balance and style in the end (despite that initial, somewhat unsubtle oaky texture and flavour). £5.49 Tesco, Sainsbury's, Thresher, Co-op, Asda, Wine Cellar. 87

Autumn 2008

2007 Pampano Inspiración Verdejo, Agricola Castellana, Rueda (12.5%) - nice depth of aromatic citrus fruit bolstered by intricate yeast-lees undertones, oily honeyed texture v still quite fresh and lively finish. Value: €3. 87

Spring - Summer 2008

2007 Marfil rosat, Alella Vinicola (Garnacha Merlot Syrah Cabernet 13%) - attractively full and red-fruity style rosé with juicy oily texture and dry finish. €5 85+

2007 Cune 'Monopole' Rioja blanco (mostly Viura 12.5%) - aromatic floral and lightly peachy with subtle yeast-lees notes, quite full and rounded v very dry crisp finish; shows nice depth and style. On offer €4.55. 87+

2007 René Barbier Tradición Penedès rosado (Garnacha Tempranillo Carinena 12.5%) - the new vintage isn't a disappointment, in fact it's fuller and fruitier than before even with plenty of ripe red fruits then finishing with dry, lightly bitter twist. Under €3. 85

Winter collection 2007/2008

2003 Hacienda López de Haro, Rioja Crianza (Tempranillo Garnacha Graciano 13%) - aged in 50-50 American & French oak for 18 months. Pretty classic style creatively mixing light smoky-sweet oak with aromatic ripe red fruits, silky tannins on a fairly mature framework. Bargain at €3.60. 87-89

2002 Faustino Selección de Familia, Rioja Crianza – seductive perfumed vanilla tones with maturing fruit smokiness v good weight of raspberry fruit; concentrated and well-balanced between fruit/age/oak, quite chunky tannins and still lively acidity on the finish. €5.25 89-91

2006 Bach Viña Extrísima rosado, Catalunya (13%) - bags of delicious raspberry and strawberry fruit; rounded and creamy palate with fresh, dry and quite long finish. 87-89

2003 Jaume Serra Crianza, Penedés (Cabernet Merlot Tempranillo) – rustic and smoky nose leads on to quite rich depth of pruney cassis fruit; chunky tannins v maturing leather-tinged palate, powerful finish with a bitter twist. About €3 87

2006 Albert i Noya Clàssic rosat, Penedés (Pinot Noir Merlot 13%, organic) – pretty serious pink wine with chunky yet maturing red fruit and oily texture v a touch of dry tannin and still quite fresh acidity; definitely a food rosé. About €5 87

2007 Torres DeCasta rosado, Catalunya (Garnacha Carinena 13%) - established favourite shows no sign of slacking: delicious raspberry and strawberry fruit, creamy and quite full v intense and fresh. €3.75 87

Summer 2007

2003 Fontal Tempranillo Crianza, Bodegas Fontana, La Mancha (+ a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah Merlot 13.5%) - attractive 'modern' style, showing rich vibrant black cherry/currant and raspberry fruit v chunky dry tannins, and the oak is more subtle than anticipated adding light coconut edges; extracted fruit and tannins on the finish v rounded maturing backdrop. €4.50 87

2006 Cuatro Rayas Verdejo, Agricola Castellana, Rueda (13%) - very lively nose and palate with fresh green fruit/veg v ripe oily citrus tones, crisp zesty and refreshing length. 87

La Guita Manzanilla, Rainera Perez Marin (15%) - delicious Fino style but crisper and lighter perhaps, yeasty almond aromas lead to a dry tangy complex palate. Lovely aperitif and with gazpacho or fish soup. 87+

2006 Sumarroca rosat, Penedés (Pinot Noir Tempranillo Syrah Merlot 12%) - tasty raspberry and cream aromas and flavours, quite full and silky with fresh finish. 87

2006 Miquel de March rosado, Mas Oliver SA, Navarra (12.5%) - similar to above, a little less refined and creamy. 85

2002 Ramón Roqueta Reserva, Catalunya (Tempranillo Cabernet Sauvignon 13%) - attractive mix of smoky maturing savoury notes, background vanilla oak and 'sweet' berry/currant fruit; rounded and quite full with lightly dry tannins. €5 87+

Cresta Rosa, Vino de Aguja, Cadelamsa (a pseudonym for Castillo Perelada I think, 12%) - revitalizing quirky Catalan rosé, semi-sparkling thanks to a brief second fermentation; baked red fruit cocktail with fizzy off-dry finish. €3-€3.50 87

Blanc Pescador, Vino de Aguja (11.5%) - this easy-drinking dry-ish white is made in the same way as the Cresta Rosa above: a bit like less fizzy Cava (probably from the same varieties) with lightly yeasty apple and almond notes, sunny and refreshing. Nice with cod roe pâté. €3.20 85

2006 Gran Feudo rosado, Chivite, Navarra (Garnacha 13%) - perennial favourite rosado style, juicy and fat fruit v crisp and dry finish. €3-€3.50 87+

May 2007

Cava Rosado Brut Reserva, Jaume Serra, Catalonia (Pinot Noir Trepat 11.5%) - earthy meaty even with peppery undertones combine with roast almonds and squashed strawberries; rounded and ripe fruity with tangy rhubarb flavours too, fairly dry fresh finish. A bit strange but nice with it. €5 87

April 2007

2006 Castillo de Perelada blanc de blancs, Empordà (Macabeu Garnaxta blanca Chardonnay 13%) - the latest vintage from Perelada doesn't disappoint with its customary flair for freshness and crisp mineral intensity, yet subtle weight and concentration too. 87

Sept-Nov 2006

2005 Viña Extrísima rosado, Bach, Catalunya (13%) - yummy raspberry and strawberry fruit, ripe and creamy mouth-feel followed by fresh dry finish. 87+

2003 Rioja Gran Familia, Castillo de Fuenmayor/Guy Anderson Wines (Tempranillo Graciano, 12.5%) - nice enough Rioja style showing vanilla oak & raspberry fruit, lightly rustic notes with chunky tannins. UK: £4.99 Sainsbury's, £5.99 or 3 for 2 = £3.99 at Threshers. 85+

2005 Montesierra rosado, Bodegas Pirineos, Somontano (Tempranillo Garnacha, 13.5%) - big creamy rounded palate v complex light red pepper notes, rich red fruit cocktail v freshness, power and dry finish. 87-89

July-August 2006

2005 Riubal Blanc de Blancs, Penedés (Xarello Parellada Muscat 11.5%) - delicate lifted and light with zesty floral fruit, plenty of character and oily roundness despite relatively low alcohol. €2.50 85+

2005 Riubal Rosat, Penedés (Pinot Noir Tempranillo Syrah Merlot 12.5%) - delicious strawberry and raspberry flavours, vibrant yet gently creamy, fresh and dry finish. €2.50 85+

2005 René Barbier rosado, Penedés (Garnacha Tempranillo Cariñena 12%) - similar style to above, perhaps a little more of the ripe strawberry and a little less zingy, appealing nevertheless. €2.50 83-85

2005 Conde de Caralt rosado, Catalunya/Catalonia (Tempranillo Garnacha Cariñena 12%) - and ditto really, again very nice quaffer without the intensity of the Riubal. Less than €2.50 83-85

2005 Marqués de Alella white, Catalonia (Pansa Blanca 11.5%) - lovely white from this little region just down the road from Barcelona: fragrant yet quite concentrated with white peach and honeysuckle, zesty crisp bite on the finish. €5 87

May-June 06

2000 Navarra crianza, Señorio de Sarria - very appealing mature smooth style showing dried fruits, leather and light vanilla oak background. 87+

2005 Navarra rosado, Señorio de Sarria - classic elegant Navarra rosé offering creamy red fruits and refreshing dry finish. 85-87

2005 Gran Feudo rosado, Chivite, Navarra (Garnacha) - up to its usual classy standard, attractive subtle creamy raspberry fruit then crisp length. 87

April 06

2005 DeCasta rosado, Torres, Catalunya/Catalonia (Garnacha & Cariñena, 13.5%) - the latest vintage of this benchmark rosé is even better than usual; serious and weighty, bags of creamy red fruit charm yet fine, dry and fresh finish. €3.50 87-89

2000 Rioja crianza, Viña Berceo (12.5%) - appealing nearly mature style, less vanilla oaky than some Rioja with richer prune fruit, lightly gamey too with dry grip yet rounded finish. €5-6 87+

2005 rosado, Masia Perelada, Catalunya/Catalonia (Garnacha & Tempranillo, 12.5%) - baby sister or brother of below, showing similar attractive raspberry and redcurrant fruit but with less depth and intensity; light, stylish and refreshing. €2.50-3 85+

March 06

2005 rosado, Castillo de Perelada, Empordà-Costa Brava (Catalonia) (Garnacha, Cariñena & Tempranillo, 13%) - very youthful and a bit closed up at the moment, scented lightly creamy red fruits and roses lead to elegant zingy palate, crisp and long. €3-3.50 87-89

2004 Cune rosado, Rioja (Garnacha, 13%) - stylish rosé with soft creamy summer fruits and fresh delicate finish. €3.39 87

Castellblanch Cava Brut Zero Reserva (11.5%) - subtle quality fizz showing apple and biscuit characters, hazelnut oily texture and refreshing finish. 89

February 06

Cava Brut Nature, Cases Ribalta, Catalonia (Macabeu, Xarello & Parellada, 11.5%) - elegant fizz with quite intense almond biscuit flavours, lightly oily texture then fresher finish. €3.50 87

2000 Reserva, Viña Albali, Valdepeñas (Tempranillo, 13%) - the Albali gang are very good at these consistently smooth, smoky and dried-fruity reds with light tannins and a touch of sweet oak. €3 85-87

December 05 - January 06

Thalassa Vi d'Agulla rosat, Bach, Catalonia (Pinot Noir & Cabernet Sauvignon, 11.5%) - lovely creamy summer fruit pudding, vibrant and elegant, quite dry finish. 87

2004 Gran Feudo rosado, Chivite, Navarra (Garnacha, 12.5%) - shows off its usual elegant style, nice light creamy raspberry fruit leading to crisp subtle length. 87

Fino Quinta, Osborne, Jerez/Sherry (Palomino, 15%) - classic fino with yeasty, roast almond intensity; tangy, crisp and very dry with long, oily nut finish. €5-6 88

2001 Carta de Oro reserva, Berberana, Rioja (Tempranillo & Garnacha) - not the best Rioja in the world, but this smooth, maturing and sweet-textured red hits the spot at the price. €5 85

2004 Blanc de Blancs Seleccio, Riubal, Penedés (Macabeu, Xarello, Parellada & Muscat, 11.5%) - dry white that's a bit different and quite fine too, floral and grapey nose follows through to lightly oily texture then crisp and fresh bite. €3.50 87

2003 Mayor de Castilla roble, Viña Arnaiz, Ribera del Duero (13.5%) - Roble means oak by the way, and this attractively spicy red saw 3 months worth; nice ripe raspberry and blackberry fruit with sufficient grip and well handled layer of vanilla oak. €3.50 85

Extrisimo Brut Natural Cava, Bach, Catalonia - light and elegant with underlying oily, nutty and appley characters; fresh, fairly long and crisp finish. €3 85+


Features archive 1998-2010

To read the latest features and articles posted on this blog or previously on French Mediterranean Wine (Roussillon, Languedoc, Rhone Valley, Provence, Southwest etc.), browse through 'more wine words' or 'blog archive' in the right-hand column (from 2011 onwards).
All other wine, food and/or travel words summarised below with links to the full monty were originally published in the old WineWriting.com archive (2010 and backwards); and have been / might be teleported over to new WineWriting.com as appropriate (if you follow me). Sadly, some are missing, and will probably remain so, as it just takes too much time for no money. I'm also in the process of fixing links and standardising the formatting. All rights Richard Mark James unless otherwise stated.

Demijohns outside at Mas Amiel, by Vi Erickson.

Banyuls and Maury: 'Sweet seductive red Roussillon' (November 2010).
Riesling Riesling & Riesling: Or a couple of racy German tastings combined (September 2010).
Ardèche: unknown Rhône OArdèche méridionale in French, which has a sexier-south ring to it (August 2010).
Argentina: Malbec and Cabernet at a glance (May 2010).
Eastern Slovenia: 'Taking on New Zealand' (May 2010).
'Larging it in the Languedoc'Jeanjean and Mas La Chevalière (July 2010)
Languedoc tasting reports 2009 and 2008 vintages... (June 2010)
Australia Focus: 'world-class Chardonnay', Riesling & Shiraz, 'consumer top 20', winery snaps (March-May 2010).

Le Tour de Listrac
"A gentle bike ride is an ideal introduction to this niche Bordeaux commune. Sounds great - but what's with all the homework, asks Richard James..." A version of this wine travel feature was originally published in Decanter magazine in May 2010.
"Listrac might not be the first stop on most Bordeaux enthusiasts' wine travel wish-list, although there certainly are a few admired chateaux in this relatively small area (630 ha of vines) lying approximately between Margaux and Saint-Julien further west of the river. The appellation has existed for over 50 years but had a subtle facelift more recently, i.e. they appended Médoc for ease of location. It borders green forestland on one side and, naturally, vineyards on the other..." Read on...

Relentless Roussillon: 'Strange goings-on in Maury...'
Featuring Department 66 ("the Americans"), La Borde Vieille ("the Mexicans"), Les Enfants ("the Swiss"), oh... "the English" (Jones, Bee, Pertuisane...) and "French" too (Deveza, Mudigliza, Petite Baigneuse, Serre Romani...). "There's nothing new about a high-profile "outsider investment" story round these parts: Calvet-Thunevin's stark statement winery fashioned from blocks of orange Gard stone was the boldest testament to this up until now, and has somewhat altered the view on the way into town..." Click here to read this article on "FMW"... (Jan 2010)

Bordeaux: Côtes de Bourg and Listrac-Médoc (Nov 2009)
Roussillon: Saint-Bacchus awards (Oct 2009)

Wine travel: western Languedoc
"Suite Dreams. Forget cellar tours or winery restaurants. For a complete wine lover's experience, why not spend a night or two at a chateau or gite among the vines? Richard James heads to the Languedoc." This article originally appeared in the July 2009 issue of Decanter magazine.
“Some offer you just a drink. Others offer you a château,” a recent Bordeaux ad campaign boasted. They may well have an abundance of grand aristocratic châteaux; but how many of them can you actually visit, or better still stay the night at, as a humble wine traveller seeking the full monty vines & winemaker experience? The western Languedoc offers many handsome wine estates saturated in history and dramatic landscapes, which increasingly can be enjoyed first-hand as the huge potential for ‘wine tourism’ is slowly unleashed. And where better to start than the sprawling region of outstanding rugged beauty to the north, south and west of the Corbières hills…" Read on...

Undiscovered Spain: Castilla y León (June 2009)

Provencal wine
These words were published in distilled form in the smart and very thorough (I'm slightly biased of course although not getting commission for this shameless plug) 2009 edition of the Time Out South of France guide - click here to buy it on Time Out's website. All rights © Richard M James / Time Out.
"When browsing through the many words written about the history of growing grapes and making wine in southeast France, you’ll no doubt come across plenty of that ‘since Roman’ and ‘Phoenician times’ or ‘Mediaeval monks’ stuff. However, it almost goes without saying that the region’s wine roots and culture are just as ingrained as its food and cuisine; as well as the way countless picturesque vine-scapes effortlessly mould its very varied terrain. As is happening in other vinous parts of France, Provence - Côte d’Azur winegrowers are striving to keep up with ‘les Martin’, let alone the Jones’ and Changs, and changing tastes at home and worldwide. The region has plenty to offer on the wine front with several quite different wine appellations, some of them household names and others hardly known beyond the borders of 13, 83 or 84..." Read on (March 2009)...

Germany: Terrassen-Mosel (January 2009).

'Straining at the leash'
"The Roussillon's strict regulations are forcing producers to work outside the AOC. Who's in the right and is this new creativity paying off, asks Richard James?" This feature was first published in the September 2008 issue of Decanter magazine.
"The ideal of the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system as standard-bearer of ‘typicity’ (like terroir, English struggles to comfortably translate typicité) has been attacked before; but two damning reports in Que Choisir? (France's Which?) within the last year are yet more hefty nails in its coffin. The nationwide lobby group called Sève (www.seve-vignerons.fr), which has been pushing the establishment for an overhaul and back-to-basics approach, saw these as evidence of what they've been saying all along. AOC should be an honest reflection of the hard work and raw materials that go into the bottle, if true site-specific wines are to flourish. Yet here’s the dilemma: ‘table wines aren't the future.’ Some of the most exciting producers have been pushed outside the appellation framework, just like Tuscany all those years ago, due to obsolete regulations and entrenched views on what the right grape varieties or wine style should be. Besides, many growers have always believed instinctive creativity should have free rein, if you want to make the best and most unique wines possible from a particular area..." Read on... (and scroll down).

Gérard Bertrand"King of the Languedoc?" (autumn 2008)
'New Wave' Spain awards (July 2008)

The Roussillon, present and future: a mini-thesis
Master of Wine or Master of Methodology? OK, so it's a case of sour grapes: the IMW failed this dissertation outright. While I still maintain some of their criticisms were unjustified or inaccurate even (and I can back that up), I accept it's no masterpiece but wasn't given the chance to improve and resubmit it. If you have the time and inclination (yawn), read on by clicking on the link  below ("be brutal," I'm used to it). Anyway, hats off to all those who've managed to walk the unpredictable MW dissertation tightrope, you're a better man/woman than me. I'm afraid I've probably lost interest in doing (another) boring formulaic piece of work that now seems to be more about methodology than wine. Still, I did pass the exams at least... but hey, never say never!
"The Roussillon is usually referred to along with the Languedoc as forming the largest wine region in France. Although there are parallels in terms of wine styles, production structure and social issues (linked to the industry’s importance as an employer); Roussillon has a distinct identity and culture, as well as different climate and terrain, with a considerably smaller area under vine than the Languedoc. Nevertheless, the Roussillon’s image for wine remains largely polarised or unknown.
With its history of producing Vins Doux Naturels (VDN) fortified wines to satisfy once substantial, and lucrative, domestic demand (over one third of plantings is still dedicated to this); the region has had to face the challenges of adapting to changing tastes and markets. However, Roussillon winemakers have already revealed new dynamism based on the belief that the area is capable of offering a rich diversity of styles including value-for-money brands, Mediterranean varietals, fine estate wines and icon reds, in addition to unique sweet wines..." Read on (April 2008)...

Climate Change and Wine - Barcelona 15 February 2008
A taster: “The hotel manager just told me the pool outside the building will be confiscated,” Pancho Campo announced dramatically - president of the Wine Academy of Spain and organiser of last week’s ‘Climate Change and Wine’ conference in Barcelona - as an example of the Spanish government’s new measures to reclaim water and reduce irrigation...
Viticulture consultant Richard Smart said that “Australia will see shrinkage of possible grape growing regions towards the southern coasts and altitude,” yet 70% of them are currently along the Murray River centred on one of the hottest areas around Mildura. “If average temperatures increase by over 2°C, we’re not sure what will happen..."
Tony Sharley from Banrock Station based in Mildura said irrigation was “the biggest mistake we’ve made in Oz in the last 50 years...”
Vicente Sotés said “there’s no available land above 43° North in Spain, and in Rioja plantings already go up to 600m.” New high-altitude vineyard projects include the Canary Islands, Sierra Nevada in Granada and Pyrenees foothills, where Torres has already made a move...
"...Carbon footprint for Yellow Tail – 12 million case sales, glass sourced locally, no barrel ageing, loaded into containers and trucked to port then shipped directly into e.g. LA or port & train to NYC. CO2 emissions = 2.2 kg per bottle production + distribution = 3.44 kg / bottle x 12m cases..." Click here for more...

'CRAV - 100 years of protest'
"Richard James tracks the history and current state of a militant batch of French wine activists..." A shorter version of this feature was published in the December 2007 issue of Decanter magazine. A brief report drawing comparisons between 1907-2007 in the Languedoc and Roussillon: demonstration, uprising, co-operatives and winegrowing upheaval in the south of France. Many thanks to Jean Clavel, Rémy Pech and others who provided invaluable information and views for this article.
“We’re at the point of no return. Be the worthy successors of the 1907 revolt, when some died to allow future generations to live off their land.” This grim warning was issued in May 2007 to France’s fresh-faced President by hooded men shot in sinister video-footage (source: France3/AFP). It’s more reminiscent of a bloody broadcast from El Qaeda or ETA than a handful of angry winegrowers in a sleepy Languedoc village. One month before, explosives were set off outside supermarkets from Nîmes to Capestang. And the July 3 bombings - the morning after a demonstration in Béziers and day before the European Commission (EC) published wine sector reforms - mark a disturbing twist, as this time the target was Co-operative Cellars’ Federation headquarters in Montpellier and Narbonne..." Read on... (scroll down).

1907 Winegrowers' Revolt - the Roussillon 100 years on! (Nov 2007)

Waitrose wine magazine (allegedly)
"Last year I was commissioned to do a few introductory pieces for a possible new wine magazine to be published by Waitrose (for those of you outside the UK, it's a superior supermarket chain owned by the John Lewis Group with a more enlightened wine range than some). Whatever happened between then and now behind the corporate scenes, my purple prose never saw the light of day and Waitrose has since launched a funky little drinks mag called Thirst. Anyway, I'm not very surprised they changed their plans as they already produce the glossy monthly Food Illustrated with wine articles by writers such as Andrew Jefford and Tim Atkin; as well as other features, interviews and food matching tips on their website. My four snippets here were written to a specific brief and are a little déjà-vu / back-to-basics / textbook in style, but I thought somebody out there still might find them an informative read..."
"Standing among the vines in a dramatic wine region setting can give simple pleasure and peace of mind, yet a vineyard’s location and environment also greatly influence how vines grow and the quality of grapes they produce. French winemakers in particular attribute this to the all-encompassing, slightly mysterious terroir. The word is basically untranslatable into English but has geographical and cultural overtones..." Read on... (Sept 2007)

Touring Crozes-Hermitage country
Part of this feature was originally written for the website www.winetourisminfrance.com
"Crozes-Hermitage literally stands in the imposing shadow of the Hermitage hillside vineyard, but do the wines lag far behind in its awesome wake? The busy little town of Tain l’Hermitage, on the Rhone’s right bank north of Valence, forms the heart of the appellation (AOC) and where the eponymous hill starts to rise steeply, immediately behind the station, adorned with placards carrying those oh-so famous names (Chapoutier, Jaboulet…) and the landmark Chapelle revered by wine lovers around the globe." Read on... (summer 2007).

Chile: Ventisquero & Pangea tutored tasting.

'Roussillon's Identity Parade'
An edited (and occasionally inaccurate) version of this article was published in the 11 May 2007 issue of Harpers wine & spirit weekly.
"The Roussillon, apparently permanently chained to its larger and more talked-about sibling the Languedoc, isn’t perhaps the obvious place in the ‘new South’ to come up with popular brands and innovative labels that will take the UK by storm. There are less than 30,000 hectares (ha) under vine – below 10% of the surface area of Languedoc-Roussillon as a whole – with over one third of this dedicated to production of Vins Doux Naturels sweet wines. In addition, average yields are relatively low at 35-40 hl/ha (all CIVR figures for 2006 vintage). Fifty co-operative cellars – dwindling in number yet increasingly dynamic – account for 70-75% of the region’s volume. On the other hand, around 450 independent growers are blazing an alternative trail making ‘artisan’ wines; and in-between sit certain high-profile estate owners cum merchant houses..." Read on...

Languedoc & Roussillon: top reds over €10 (April 2007)

Southern French Muscat
A shorter edition of this report was published in Off Licence News on 9th March 2007.
"The ‘Rencontres Mediterranéennes du Muscat’ might sound like a dating agency for southern European winegrowers; but Perpignan’s second Muscat showcase prompted further investigation into the variety’s current standing and future potential in the UK. Firstly: traditional ‘vins doux naturels’ or other sweeties from the Roussillon - the leading producer - Languedoc and southern Rhône. Secondly: developments in dry Muscat styles and what retailers think of them..." Read on...

Clare Valley Riesling report March 2007
Austria Grüner Veltliner: more than thirty of Austria's signature grape variety tasted and reviewed, "so you don't have to..." February 2007
Rioja free zone! Hot tips from "elsewhere," Wines from Spain London tasting Feb 2007.
Organically focused on Alsace Corsica Tuscany: themes from Millésime Bio Jan 2007...

Fitou splits from Languedoc
This story was posted on www.decanter.com on 1/12/2006.
"The entire Fitou appellation and its producers have left the CIVL, the regional association of Languedoc wineries. When revealing export marketing budgets at the CIVL’s AGM in Narbonne, Fitou’s letter of resignation was also conspicuously on the agenda..." Read on...

South of France earmarks €7 million for export
An edited version of this news item was posted on www.decanter.com on 25/11/2006.
"Ambitious plans were announced by Languedoc wine producers at their recent AGM in Narbonne. In an unprecedented move to boost export sales, around half of the overall €15 million budget has been allocated to key European, North American and Far East markets..." Read on...

Finding Fenouillèdes country
This article is published in English and French on the wine travel website www.winetourisminfrance.com
"Whichever map angle you approach the Fenouillèdes region from, you’ll quickly be invaded by the primal beauty of the unforgiving terrain that cradles its vineyards. Draped across a dramatically wild, elevated valley landscape bridging Corbières and French Catalonia, you can kick off a wine route on its eastern side coming from Perpignan airport, around the villages of Calce, Estagel and Tautavel; or from the west between Caudiès de Fenouillèdes and St-Paul de Fenouillet. The latter choice is recommended, if you’re travelling down from Carcassonne via Limoux and Couiza then winding your way through the scary Gorges de Galamus. Between St-Paul and Estagel, dotted along and south of the D117 valley road, the villages and wines of Lesquerde, Maury, Caramany, Rasiguères and Latour de France all grab your attention..." Read on... ("FMW" Dec 2006)

Tour of Tokay & Budapest: Hungarian wine travelling autumn 2006

Understanding Mourvèdre
"Comparing Mourvèdre's European growing characteristics and winemaking styles provides an understanding of its U.S. potential..." A tweaked version of this feature was published in the August 2006 issue of Wine Business Monthly and on their website www.winebusiness.com
Dial M for Mourvèdre…Monastrell…or indeed Mataro
"The very fact that it has (at least) three names says a great deal about this migrant, mystifying and misunderstood variety. It depends on where in Europe or the ‘New World’ you find yourself, although Mourvèdre seems resolutely ‘Old World’ wherever it’s grown. Early confusion over synonyms and vine provenance, let alone erratic performance, cannot have helped further understanding or interest in planting it elsewhere. This report explores climate, vineyard location, plant material and viticulture in some of the regions where the variety excels. A comparison of techniques, philosophy and styles across southern France, Spain, Australia, South Africa and California thus aims to offer a broader perspective on the potential for high quality American Mourvèdre/Mataro varietals or blends, as well as imported wines..." Read on...

Languedoc-Roussillon feature
From the 21st July edition, 2006, of UK business fortnightly Off Licence News.
"Limitless, dramatic: the Languedoc-Roussillon is a wild landscape of contrasts. Demos and dynamite, dynamic estates and brave new brands. While we should, of course, sympathise with stranded growers asking for more help from a distant Paris; it was Vinisud, the showcase for Mediterranean wines held in February, which took Montpellier by storm in the most constructive sense. Unfortunate use of words perhaps, in light of the isolated desperate acts that scar the region. But it’s clearly the numerous creative winemakers, who are signposting the future path for the South. This report looks at some of the new success stories from the region and latest developments in building a cohesive approach to marketing in the UK..." Read on...

'Italy's great white hope' - Pinot Grigio
This ran in the 9th June 2006 issue of British trade paper OLN.
"Perceptive readers might have noted with interest the apparent paradox between two items in the 12th May issue of OLN. One story had M&S enthusing: “the sexy and magical words Pinot Grigio… (have) more resonance with shoppers.” The other, from a recent Wine Intelligence survey, stated that “only 55% of monthly wine drinkers can identify Pinot Grigio as a type of white grape.” The first follows some kind of positive, consumer ‘brand’ acceptance; on the other hand, they aren’t necessarily recognising it as a grape variety. So is the Pinot Grigio star phenomenon still in the ascendant, or are there signs that PG is passé?" Read on...

Signature Bio organic wine competition June 2006
6th Fenouillèdes wine fair May 2006

Biodynamic growers worldwide: 'return to terroir'.
Biodynamic viticulture is slowly moving from obscure homeopathy-cum-astrology to hippy mainstream... the illustrious names who are members of the Renaissance des appellations / return to terroir group... speak for themselves..." Two dozen 90+ pointers picked from a groundbreaking tasting in London (May 2006) including sublime wines from: Josmeyer, Falfas, Leroy, Abbatucci, Gauby, Coulée Serrant, Breton, Trévallon, Montirius, Chapoutier, Nikolaihof, Geyerhof, Herrnsheim, Sander, Eymann, Pepe, San Giuseppe, Trevvalle, Valgiano, Lezaun, Estela, Benziger, Bonterra, Antiyal and Castagna. Plus an attempted summary of Nicolas Joly's ideas, biodynamic guru grower and author: "winegrowing for the  future..." Read on...

Australia Pinot Noir tutored tasting May 2006 (scroll down).
South Africa Chenin Blanc: themed tasting May 2006 (scroll down).
Chile trophy winners: my favourites from "the third inevitable instalment of the Wines of Chile Awards..." (May 2006)

Click here!

Nebbiolo International Symposium" Alba, March 2006
"Obviously the focus was on northwest Italy, but there were producers from elsewhere too - Sardinia, California, Virginia,  Mexico, Australia and South Africa - with their wines made from this "schizophrenic" variety... Comprehensive notes and comments on these wineries: Elvio Cogno, Sandrone, Ghiomo, Burlotto, Oddero, Viberti and giant Fontanafredda; plus a marathon walk-around tasting of BaroloBarbaresco, Ghemme, Valtellina... including verticals of top estates: Ascheri, Batasiolo, Bel Colle, Bussia Soprana, Verduno, Moccagatta, Rizzi, Gresy, Varaldo, Prevostini, Silver..." Click underneath the nice bunches of Nebbiolo grapes then scroll down that page!

Highlights from Vinisud wine show Montpellier 2006: featuring a dozen top Languedoc & Roussillon producers...
My pick of Millésime Bio organic wine fair 2006: 20 estates reviewed from the Languedoc, Roussillon, Provence and southern Rhone; plus "a few facts and thoughts" on organics...

Lebanon November 2005: Beirut, Baalbek and Bekaa
"This fascinating trip was full of pleasant surprises in personally uncharted territory. Château Musar is still the star but there are several wineries, large and small, that show great promise. Lebanon appears capable of offering something different, combining traditional French winemaking philosophy with a distinctive Middle Eastern accent; and sometimes high quality with reasonable prices..." Also includes Château Nakad, Château Ksara, Domaine des Tourelles, Clos Saint Thomas, Heritage, Château Kefraya, Cave Kouroum and Domaine Wardy; plus an excellent piece on Lebanese food by John Salvi MW... Go to article!


Armagnac trip autumn 2005
This report appeared in the UK retail trade paper OLN on 9th December 2005, and it can also be found on Graperadio.com (Over the Barrel, volume 2 number 1) and BKWine.com
"Watching Marc Saint-Martin stoke up Marie-Jeanne’s fire with chunks of dry wood evokes romantic images of steam trains and times gone by. It’s actually the name of his “probably at least 100 year old” travelling still: each one has a story to tell and emphasises the artisan nature of Armagnac production even today. Once he’d finished his first batch over the weekend, he was off touring around with two mobile units distilling for other small producers before returning to his makeshift cellar (a huge dilapidated barn about to be restored) to carry on non-stop until Christmas..." Read on... (scroll down a bit)

Pessac-Léognan, Pomerol and Saint-Emilion: winery touring Sept 2005.

'Once upon a time in the South'
Published in UK business fortnightly OLN on July 22nd 2005.
"Once upon a time in the South…there were wines called Corbières and Coteaux du Languedoc. Now sweeping changes are afoot to both rationalise and diversify the AOC hierarchy and names across the Languedoc-Roussillon. An unenviable task for a region covering 300,000 hectares, where entrenched (and occasionally dangerous) tradition goes hand in hand with progressive export-driven producers. So watch out for La Clape, Grés de Montpellier, Saint-Chinian Berlou and straight Languedoc. Confused? Well, there is admirable logic behind all of this..." Read on...

Provence in the pink... rosé road trip
A version of this wine touring piece first appeared in the summer 2005 edition of Redhot, the in-flight magazine of Virgin Express. "It’s official: rosé wines are hot. Maybe it’s down to the success of those vibrantly pink, alcoholic fruit bombs from Australia or California; or sophisticated habits picked up in the south of France and Spain; or perhaps it’s global warming changing our taste buds… And the international ‘Mondial du Rosé’ competition held in Cannes in April further proves how seriously these wines are taken..." Read on...

'International Riesling Review' - an exciting comparison of wine styles from top Riesling producers around the world. Featuring: South Australia - Grosset Wines; Germany - Weingut Wittmann, Bassermann-Jordan, Robert Weil & Leitz; Alsace - Domaines Schlumberger; New Zealand - Spy Valley; Washington State, USA - Chateau Michelle & Ernie Loosen. Click here and go to the bottom of the page... (May 2005)

Tannat: Madiran v Uruguay
In fact, much more than Madiran v Uruguay: there are also some very good reds from the lesser known Côtes de St-Mont appellation of southwest France. All the Uruguayan wines tasted are 100% Tannat (although many do blends as well), whereas the French ranged from 60% upwards. My top three were: 1er Cru Garage Tannat from Familia Deicas, Cuvée Charles de Baatz from Domaine Berthoumieu, and Château Bouscassé/Alain Brumont's Madiran Vieilles Vignes. Click here to read full report and tasting notes... (May 2005)

Monastrell-Mourvèdre-Mataro strikes back! Jumilla, South Africa and Australia (May 2005).
Faugères, Saint-Chinian and Coteaux du Languedoc: 35 wines selected from the 'Meet the winegrowers' tasting - Mas de Saporta, Montpellier, March 2005.
Languedoc: Pic Saint-Loup daytrip Château La Roque, Mas de Mortiès and Domaine de l’Hortus (March 2005)

'Is there a d'Oc in the house?'
Published in the weekly trade magazine Harpers on 4th February 2005.
"Languedoc may well mean ‘tongue of the Oc’, but growers in the region have only just begun to speak the same language. To cynical eyes, the recent creation of a mega producers’ association representing the whole of Languedoc-Roussillon, as well as the new regional Languedoc AOC, might look like more bureaucratic hurdles for embattled French wine exporters. However, a fresh spirit of cooperation and desire to simplify things have emerged, as illustrated by the ‘Printemps du Languedoc-Roussillon’ tasting in London on February 15th, also held in conjunction with Vins de Pays d’Oc producers..." Read on...

Fenouillèdes country: this beautifully rugged, northwest corner of the Roussillon forms the 'border' between French Catalonia and the Pyrenees and Corbières hills... (Jan 2005)
Millésime Bio organic wine show 2005
Cortes de Cima wines & olive oil (Jan 2005)

Languedoc wines speak the same language
Here's the original version of my story published by Decanter.com on 14/12/2004.
"The Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc (CIVL) has revealed plans to promote all the different appellations (AOC) under the one umbrella of ‘Languedoc’, and to work together with other producers to push the idea of ‘South of France’ in export markets..." Read on...

Fête des Vignes Montpellier (Dec 2004)
Waitrose Christmas Wines (Nov 2004)
Lingenfelder Vineyard Creatures (Oct 2004, go to bottom of this page)

Bandol harvest finishes early
A version of this news story first appeared on Decanter.com on 14th October 2004.
"The costumed tradition of ‘les Vendanges du Rond-Point des Mourvèdres’ – harvesting 225 Mourvèdre vines planted on the roundabout near motorway exit ‘La Cadière-Le Castellet’ north of the town of Bandol – took place on Thursday 7th October in temperatures of over 25°C, despite threats of rain issued by weather forecasters..." Read on...
Plus: Mourvèdre Madness! Bandol 2003-2004 & much more...

Big Turkish export push
An adaptation of this report was first published on Decanter.com on September 30 2004. I've since added a bit more info and opinion: Turkish Delight (my notes on wines tasted on this delight-ful (ho ho) Turkish wine trip). "Turkish wines are set to hit the UK as importer Alaturka teams up with two major producers to concentrate on exports. UK agent Alaturka will spearhead this export drive for wines from Turkey in partnership with Doluca and Kavaklidere, the two largest wineries in an industry previously lacking in co-operation..." Read on...

Report on Rhône Valley wines published by OLN on August 6th 2004.
France’s second longest river has inspired us to ‘think red’, ride with Rhône rangers and even roam with goats. Côtes du Rhône wines have, over time, won a place in the hearts of British buyers, but their current hit-or-miss performance has exposed the fickle nature of this relationship. If overall volume trends for the last year look a little alarming, then the rise in value and of certain appellations and brands – particularly from the southern Rhône – paints a rosier picture... Read on...

'Screwcaps and beyond' by guest wine writer Paul White
This detailed article was first published in World of Fine Wine magazine in the August 2004 issue. I've reproduced it here with Paul's kind permission to offer a different view on this news item I posted on 16/11/04: New Zealand takes lead in screwcaps as wine closures. Other related stuff on winewriting.com: Lingenfelder goes screwy, Laroche Chablis cork v screwcap (temporarily missing).
"It should be increasingly clear that screwcaps aren’t at all what they’ve been cracked up to be. Evidence increasingly suggests that they are as potentially faulty, albeit from a different set of faults, as either corks or synthetic stoppers. Before I dig myself any deeper into this contentious little hornet’s nest, let me declare up front that I have absolutely no preference for cork over screwcaps over whatever. I’ve had both magnificent and absolutely dreadful wine sealed under both corks and screwcaps. Like most consumers, all I want is to have wine delivered to me fault-free with a degree of consistency. If it’s wine intended for early consumption I would want it to be fresh and ready to drink without being disjointed or excessively harsh. And where it’s a fully matured, bottle aged wine, I would hope for the sublime heights of the finest old wines I’ve tasted so far under the best corks..." (Might be resurrected...ed.)

Feature on Austrian wine Off Licence News July 23 2004
“I’ll be back,” as Austria’s most famous export, Governor Schwarzenegger, once put it. Austrian growers are a little frustrated with being told their wines are fantastic but too expensive. However, they do understand why and appear keen to make a come back. A recent trip across the country's main wine regions ably demonstrated what’s happening in vineyards and cellars there, and what kind of wines are on offer for the UK. So far distribution in the off-trade has been muted, but there are plenty of ideas coming out of Austria on the marketing front. Their new DAC appellation scheme looks interesting, and what about generic PR and the future for brands..? Read on...

Burgundy growers disagree with proposals for AOC reform
A version of this news item first appeared on Decanter.com on 16/7/2004.
"Growers and producers from the BIVB, the region’s main trade body, issued their initial reactions to President of the INAO – the organisation that sets and enforces the rules for French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée wines – René Renou’s plans for AOC reform, presented at a packed meeting last week..." Read on...

Pass the Bolly
Notes and views on the Champagne market and the art of blending, based on a presentation to MW students on 17th May 2004 by Ghislain de Montgolfier from Champagne Bollinger. After the text, you'll find a few ecstatic tasting notes and reviews (well, Bolly is pretty good, no?) of the 'finished product' including Special Cuvée, La Grande Année 1990-95-96-97 and the incomparable one-off 1985 RD ("if it's the 85, you were expecting me," as 007 might have said...). Read on...

TIME OUT South of France Guide - Provence & the Côte d'Azur
A version of the following wine touring feature appeared in the 2004 edition of this essential guide to the region. Yours truly also compiled/updated the chapter on Marseille. Click on the picture for more info on the latest edition on Time Out's website.

"As you’ll soon notice when travelling around, the south of France is awash with vast areas of picturesque vineyards: sometimes endless rows forming great flat plains, sometimes impossibly steep or rocky terraces. The volume of wine produced between Perpignan and Nice is breathtaking, but there’s been a dramatic shift in thinking. The southeast generally seems less dynamic than the Languedoc-Roussillon, nevertheless there’s plenty of good wine to be found amidst the plonk. Provence and the Côte d’Azur are home to a bewildering array of wine regions: from miniscule Palette just east of Aix and Nice’s bijou Bellet to the huge sweeping Côtes de Provence and Coteaux d’Aix; up-and-coming Costières de Nîmes, Côtes du Ventoux, Cairanne and Rasteau to established royalty like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Bandol. The relatively hot and dry climate prescribes red grape varieties foremost, although certain appellations are rated for their whites such as Cassis..." Read on...

'An Austrian adventure'
This feature was published on 16th April 2004 in Harpers wine & spirit weekly magazine. "You can almost see their eyes roll in time to the crescendo of Mahler’s 5th, when an Austrian grower is told yet again their wines are great but too expensive. But to fully appreciate Austria’s position, a cool reminder is required placing them in the context of world production. A recent visit covering regions such as Burgenland, Thermenregion, Kamptal and Wachau provided a fascinating insight into what is happening on the ground in terms of viticulture and winemaking. To date, distribution in the UK is at best niche; there is, however, no shortage of ideas or activity to broaden marketing and sales of Austrian wines. The innovative DAC ‘appellation’ system could prove an asset, and what of the potential of brands or even cult wines?" Read on...

And returning to your screens from the 2004 archive asap: I'm still rebuilding this blog so please bear with me if things are missing or look a bit odd. It'll be gran reserva when finished (cue 2030, a wine odyssey)...
Majestic Winter List reviewed, Aldi posh wines, Screwcaps on Grand Cru Chablis? Laroche: screwcap v cork, Soy Argentina: Patagonia & Mendoza, Germany - Southern States, Oz regional focus: Western Australia - South Australia - New South Wales - Victoria, 'New' South Africa and South African Syrah ShirazWines of Chile Awards, New Zealand Pinot Noir, "Old obscure and orbital", Wine for Spice, Rosé Riot, Austria: Styria - Pannobile - Thermenwinzer - Wachau Riesling - Grüner Veltliner, Washington State wines and Vinisud 2004: Abbotts & Boutinot - Minervois La Livinière - Pic St Loup.

Côtes de Provence – Massif des Maures
Full tasting notes and reviews of all the wines mentioned in this piece will be added as soon as possible... "A day trip in early November 2003 took in a handful of wine estates dotted along the peaceful (at that time of year at least) coastal strip between Hyères and Saint-Tropez, skirting the edges of the omnipresent silhouette of the Massif des Maures. Four of these were so-called Cru Classé properties: Château Sainte Marguerite, Clos Mireille (Domaines Ott), Château de Brégançon and Château Minuty. This slightly dubious 'classification' dating from 1956 holds no credible status in terms of official criteria for superiority, but it certainly pumps up the prices and expectations. Having said that, some of the Cru Classé wines are undeniably very good and swim gracefully above the shoals of mediocrity found in the vast sea that is Côtes de Provence. And if price and stature truly reflect track record, a natural hierarchy can sometimes speak volumes..." Read on...

Pastis: published in OLN on 28 November 2003.
"It’s an old cliché – it just doesn’t taste the same back home – but this seems so true when applied to pastis. Best enjoyed sitting outside a bar in the south of France, soaking up the rays and partaking in the full ritual: slowly add water from one of those cute oh-so-French jugs, watch the ice swirl and the drink turn opaque. But this cultural flavour experience doesn’t appear to translate as well to northern Europe and beyond. So who’s drinking pastis – and which brands – in the UK and other countries?" Read on...

Alsace travel in brief
City Life issue 498, August 2003.
"You get a nutshell glimpse of Strasbourg taking the groovy Mancy-style tram (although a touch more ‘Space 1999’) from the main station, which weaves through various clean-cut squares and shopping streets. The capital of Alsace - and allegedly Europe - does in certain ways give off a more Germanic than French feeling, especially in the architecture department..." Read on...

'HOT' South of France & Rhône
Harpers on-trade magazine, July/August 2003 issue.
“Château Latour, c’est le Pibarnon de Pauillac.” This facetious and flattering quip by the French magazine Le Nouvel Observateur - comparing Château Pibarnon (a leading estate in Bandol nestling between Marseille and Toulon) and that slightly more famous property in the Médoc - does in fact raise significant issues. Very few wines outside the ‘classic’ regions, let alone in the south, have such a reputation and saleable clout. So is there a place for the South of France and the Rhône on our wine lists, and how are they and French wines generally going down in restaurants and bars?" Read on (go to bottom of this page)...

L’Ambassade des Vignobles, Marseille...
Wine magazine June 2003. "This vast tranquil square is easily found just a stone’s throw from the traffic lining the south side of Marseille’s historic Vieux Port, at the bottom of the steep ascent to that other postcard landmark, the magnificently kitsch Notre Dame de la Garde basilica. On the port side, touristy restaurants offering bouillabaisse aplenty dominate; in the furthest southwestern corner sits L’Ambassade des Vignobles. The building is very old, the walls made of near-crumbling stone with dark wood beams above. However it’s smart in style but unstuffy in atmosphere; this is the South after all...." Read on...

'Macho Mourvèdre' - Bandol day trip April 2003
"Le rond-point des Mourvèdres. Magnificent, a roundabout dedicated to Mourvèdre: must be a good omen. This scene-setting postage-stamp vineyard, which is difficult to ignore if you take motorway exit 11 'La Cadière-Le Castellet' to the north of Bandol, lets you know immediately who’s boss around here. For majestic mythical Mourvèdre shapes not only the heart of the appellation on paper but also winegrowers' hearts and minds..." Click here!

Pomerol February 2003: invasion of MW students (on FMW.com)
Part one: Vieux Château Certan
'Alexandre Thienpont – third generation proprietor, vineyard manager and wine maker – is very much a terroir man. I know this word, this concept, is bandied about ad nauseum, particularly by French wine growers and sometimes for the wrong reasons or without real meaning. But in this case it seems to hold true: Alexandre’s philosophy and, on the surface, simple approach does translate through to his wines. “Everything is done in the vineyard, in the winery we just ferment juice with no improvements. Quality has been built up from generations of trial and error in the vineyard.” Bit of a simplistic staid cliché, I realise, but bear with me...'
Part two: Château Le Pin
'Reluctant to leave Vieux Château Certan so soon, we moved on animatedly to cult estate Château Le Pin just a stone’s throw away. Passing motorists found some amusement in dodging a coach-load of people, each armed with dripping tasting glass in hand, strolling down the road in two columns in opposing directions. The second group was drifting up from Le Pin heading for VCC; we couldn’t all visit together as the cellar at Le Pin is too small, in true ‘garage’ style. Owner Jacques Thienpont and his wife Fiona Morrison MW greeted us outside the ordinary-looking house/cottage/bungalow (I don’t think they live there), the best vantage point to survey the whole two hectares that make up the property. Jacques bought the vineyard in 1979 – unknown at the time but VCC used to buy one hectare of fruit from it – paying one million Francs for 1 ha (envious to think what it’s worth now), then acquired selected parcels around it...'
Click on the same link above to read more.

Italian wines: Off Licence News April 2003
"Keeping their fingers crossed was never going to be enough for Italian wine producers with a presence on UK off-licence shelves. After at least two successive years of increasing their market share, the figures suggest a downturn in sales. In 2002 Italy lost about 5% of its value share of the take home market, but still occupied third slot with 10-11% in value and 12% in volume. Jan/Feb 2003 MAT data confirms a further slightly downward trend (all stats ACNielsen). In addition a difficult 2002 vintage resulting in lower volumes and possibly quality isn’t going to help." Read on...

"With the onslaught of the New World, German wines stand little chance of surviving..."
An essay in defence of German wine: originally written in 2002 but the ideas still hold up!
Onslaught is an extreme, emotive word. To substantiate or reject this statement, it’s necessary to briefly look at statistics of the performance of German versus New World wines in a few different markets (essentially whites bearing in mind they form 75% of Germany’s production). It’s clear Germany has lost share in the UK, for example, but what is happening elsewhere and, in contrast, does this hold true for all styles and qualities? We also cannot generalise about the so-called New World, and price and volume issues need to be considered. We have to look at some of the background problems hampering Germany in the face of competing countries, such as image, packaging, communication to the consumer, brands and wine styles. But in addition to analyse what traditional German wines have got to offer and the success - or not - of the so-called ‘new wave’ initiatives. And finally the question of the much talked about Riesling revival... Read more of this article...

Restaurants, bars and clubs: Edinburgh & London...
Refresh magazine March 2003 issue
Energetic Edinburgh is bursting with lively restaurants, bars and cafés, available in all shapes and styles to suit. The whole Broughton Street ‘district’ is so hip it has its own website (www.broughtonstreet.co.uk), which offers a useful guide to the area’s establishments. Read more of this article...

Valentine’s Day drinking & eating...
Refresh magazine Feb. 2003 issue
The mere suggestion of drinking sparkling rosé might induce a wince or a tut, but the best ones are more serious than their pretty colour or perceived image implies. The key is to use high quality red grapes – Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier mostly – which are crushed and briefly left soaking with their skins, then the juice is drained off taking its seductive pink tinge with it. Having said that, most rosé Champagnes aren’t made like this but are a blend of red and white (Chardonnay) wines; the fizz and unique taste are then created in the usual way by slow second fermentation in bottle and ageing on the yeast. Read more of this article...

Chine Rouge Manchester... WINE magazine February 2003 issue.
"This grand swish establishment is a newcomer to Chinatown and offers refinement, cosiness and high camp courtesy of Manchester institution Francis Carroll (of Lounge Ten fame). The interior is glorious: black painted and red padded walls neatly matching red benches, low black armchairs and red stained wooden floorboards. A giant Buddha sits observing amidst candles, Chinese umbrellas above on the roof, marble-affect pillars ornamented with kitsch oriental designs and a large painting of two Geishas or lady-boys drinking..." (Picture courtesy of City Life magazine) Read on...

Kro2 Manchester... WINE magazine January 2003 issue.
"This independently owned mini-group is churning out sequels faster than Hollywood. Kro Bar opened to acclaim a couple of years ago further down Oxford Road in the heart of the University, and a third is being constructed occupying part of the Manchester Museum nearby (Kro3 The Return perhaps?). But who cares when they look this smart and offer good quality drinking and eating..." Read on...

Choice bar & restaurant Manchester... WINE magazine December 2002 issue.
"Its short and sweet name gets the juices flowing: so is the selection worthy at Choice bar & restaurant? This smart and clear-cut establishment has been open for a year but is perhaps overlooked, tucked away under Castle Quay by the canal in Manchester’s redeveloped Castlefield area. The restaurant elegantly oozes exposed old brick, cream and dark wood; the bar is similar with wines on display in a glass cabinet..." Read on...

More HOT... or hotter still?
A couple of bar reviews first published in 'Harpers On-trade' magazine (November and December 2002 issues): The Player, Ashton-Under-Lyne & Cosmopolitan Spirit, Manchester. Click here. A taster: "The Player is located just off Ashton’s old market square cum 70s-style hideous shopping centre..." and "This is no ordinary establishment: brandishing the Cosmo trademark, here you can drink, eat and visit their beauty spa downstairs..."

City Life Food & Drink Guide 2003
Wine in restaurants, wine & beer shopping, a wine glossary and review of the Gurkha Grill. "Wine is overpriced in restaurants. Now that I’ve annoyed restaurateurs from Bolton to Altrincham (“what does he know about overheads”), let me add that apparently on average two-thirds of wine sold is house wine. We are drinking more and better wine with food, but diners tend to set a psychological price ceiling and are thus discouraged from experimenting..." Read on...

Portugal OLN November 2002.
"Widely tipped as the next big thing, Portuguese wines frustratingly don’t seem to be grabbing the imagination of wine drinkers and flying off the shelves. Much has been said about the diversity of its indigenous grape varieties and regions, unique points of difference, advances in quality and value for money, and quite rightly so. However most consumers still don’t appear to recognise or understand and hence choose the wines, but do like the styles and flavours, when given the opportunity to taste them." Read on... (and jump to bottom of the page).

Bordeaux OLN Bordeaux feature, September 2002.
"57 Appellations, 12000 growers, 116000 hectares of vines and 6.8 million hectolitres – that’s about 75½ million cases of wine... Welcome to the diverse world of Bordeaux basking in all its glory and vastness, complexity and mediocrity. How can one region making so much wine send out a consistent message and product and please everyone from struggling grower to confused consumer? On the one hand there’s the aloof aristocracy of top quality Châteaux, who command very high prices and represent less than 5% of the total. On the other a mass of often indifferent wines that lead to disappointment with the area as a whole. And in between many unknown ACs or Petits Châteaux, which really do have something interesting to offer." Read on... (and jump to bottom of the page).

New Zealand wine tasting preview
Dropped from City Life at the last minute due to lack of space (would have been in the 11th Sept 2002 issue)! "The figures suggest we are a nation of avid kiwi-drinkers – over half of New Zealand wine exports are consumed in Britain – which nevertheless amounts to less than one tenth of the Australian wine we put away. New Zealand’s small production favours a focus on quality and does help explain their higher prices, although occasionally value for money can appear dubious..." Read on...

HOT: harpers on-trade September 2002 (issue 25)
"Miyako (50 Faulkner Street M1, 0161 228 1215  0161 228 1215) snuggles up, almost unnoticed, shoulder-to-shoulder with the myriad, densely packed and diverse restaurants, bakers and grocers that form Manchester’s China Town..." A brief investigation into, and review of sushi restaurants in Manchester. Plus a few thoughts on licensing policy and growth of late bars in the city centre: "...is there a trend towards late-licensed bars – whether exclusive, cavernous or plain raucous – taking over as the preferred venue for ‘after hours’ drinking and dancing?" Read on...

Italian wines - Class magazine August 2002
“Pinot Grigio or Pinot Grigio” was a likely reply when asking for an Italian wine in a bar a few years ago. So what’s changed? To find out, Richard James trawled some of Manchester’s coolest and newest establishments to see what’s listed, popular and quaff-tastic in Italian wine drinking. Read more of this article...

Château Falfas: "Biodynamic in Bordeaux"
"This fetching, subtly grand yet unpretentious and workmanlike property is owned by John and Véronique Cochran and is located near Bayon in the Côtes de Bourg appellation to the northeast of Bordeaux on the Right Bank. This area isn’t known for great quality and hence its wines don’t command high prices, but that doesn’t do justice to certain individual estates who are reaching to applaud-worthy heights. Château Falfas is one of them and almost unique in Bordeaux, as it has been run on biodynamic principles since 1988, thus joining such illustrious names as Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace, Huet in Vouvray and Chapoutier in the Rhône..." Read more of this article...

City Life issue 457 - 29 May / 13 June 2002
Richard James checks out Deli Republic... "Are the citizens of Altrincham ready for upheaval? No, how about a nice sandwich then?" Read on...

Marseille travel - City Life issue 452, 20 March 2002
"The EuroStar cut a January-grey, pastel-painted blur through the spacious rural canvass like an Impressionist on speed. It’s only really when you get to Paris – aside from the embarrassingly sluggish chug through Kent followed by 20 minute blackout – that it sinks in you’ve arrived in northern France, without the more customary touchdown. A quick change of stations from Gare du Nord to de Lyon, where we were confronted by a sexy silver and blue, wingless beast waiting to teleport us to the south. This awesome, double-decker TGV is one of a brand-new class that hurtles down the Mediterranean line opened last summer..." Read on...

Booth's of Stockport: City Life issue 448, 23 Jan - 7 Feb 2002
"The stretch of Heaton Moor Road running from the station to the Reform Club still retains some loose suburban village charm, with its succinct parade of shops, bank and pubs. And a rather good, blink-and-you’ll-miss-it wine merchant..." Read on...

City Centre wine walk & shopping in the Manchester area
From the City Life Food & Drink Guide 2002
"Les Délices de Champagne, upstairs @ Triangle/Corn Exchange, Hanging Ditch. Set yourself up by partaking in their ‘cake of the day and glass of house Champagne special’ (£5.50), but start before the 7pm curfew (5pm Sundays) at this posh French patisserie-cum-fine wine café..." Read on...

LOTS MORE WINE TASTING & TRAVEL FEATURES FROM 2002-2003 MIGHT FOLLOW AT SOME POINT (the ones below showing a link have been republished)...

Restaurant magazine
Launch issue October 2001
Australian wine continues to storm ahead in supermarkets and wine shops, although enthusiastic predictions of it overtaking France to secure pole position are perhaps premature. At the moment Oz doesn’t seem to be seriously threatening the stronghold of French wines in restaurants, reckoned to account for nearly half of all bottles opened, but that could easily change (and already has when considering the wine list in an average bar). If so, will we see yet more formulaic branded Chardonnay and Shiraz rather than higher quality, individual wines, or other unusual (but arguably less saleable) offerings such as dry Aussie Riesling, which can be ideal with Asian dishes, for example?
Read more of this article...

Restaurant magazine, 31 October 2001 issue
“I’d like a nice Chardonnay please.”
“We have Red Ridge in a frosted blue bottle or Windswept Gorge with a slick minimalist label.”
“Which is the best?”
“Well, they taste the same but the Windswept Gorge looks sharper.” Read more of this article...

Tunisia by taxi
First published in City Life September 2001
"We arrived at Monastir airport loaded with a double dose of self-satisfaction – the flight only cost £95, and we were now arrogantly leaving behind the package-tour herd scrambling for the reassuring comfort of waiting coaches. But also with a sense of trepidation: first time in Africa, into the late January night on your own. So bolstered by a travel guide we caught the Metro train just outside to Mahdia, the last stop down the coast about 40-50 km. The first peculiarity struck, for European eyes at least: no women to be seen..." Read on...

Swiss wines... www.therestaurantgame.com archive 2001
Hidden elegance
The Swiss have been keeping a bit hush-hush about their wines until quite recently – a tasting in London last year organised by the Exporters’ Association proved to be an eye-opener, and they exhibited at this year’s Restaurant Show. Images of mountains, snow and great lakes don’t perhaps automatically conjure up vineyards, but wine is made in similar environments elsewhere in the world, not to mention just across the borders in France and Italy. Read more of this article...

Pink paradise www.therestaurantgame.com archive September 2001
Historically sales of rosé wines in restaurants have been hampered by narrow-minded, outdated perceptions - sweet, wimpy, inferior red - bolstered by the high profile of certain brands and styles. Surely things have moved on, particularly as New World producers are delivering rosés bursting with vivid colour and juicy fruit? 
Read more of this article...

PerSian wine!
Too good for City Life... August 2001 (another victim of ad over ed space).
“Why the Australians call the Syrah Shiraz isn’t clear – although the Iranian city of Shiraz is thought to have been the birthplace of the grape as long ago as 600BC…” (Oz Clarke’s Encyclopedia of Wine 1999 edition: more recent scientific research has now proved otherwise, by the way)..." Read on...

Stars of the Languedoc-Roussillon: a few notes written in August 2001 as mock-ups for a publisher...
1999 Les Hauts de Força Réal rouge, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (£10-15)
Producer: J-P Henriquès
Grape varieties: Mostly Syrah with Grenache and Mourvèdre.
Jean-Paul Henriquès’ beautiful 4 hectare property Força Réal is located near Millas perched high up in the Roussillon hills above Perpignan and offers staggering views towards the Mediterranean and, in the other direction, the Pyrenees and Spain beyond. Read more of this article...

Definitive Italian Wine Tasting www.therestaurantgame.com archive July 2001
The Chelsea Village Galleria at Stamford Bridge provided a powerfully green backdrop to the now annual ‘Definitive Italian Wine Tasting’ on 11th July. But all the action took place on white-clothed tables laden with bottles and thankfully in more than 90 minutes, as there were plenty of new wines and vintages to try. Producers and importers could only show mid-priced wines and upwards, meaning lower quality volume wines were excluded. Read more of this article...

Champagne trip, June 2001
At about an hour and a half’s drive from Paris, that ever so reluctant-to-leave capital city, Champagne is the nearest and easiest French wine region for us to visit... It’s also pretty, green, warm in the summer, suffused with rolling hills…and they make Champagne there; so lots of good reasons. Read more of this article...

Travel: Bordeaux in brief April 2001
I feel like a Château-tourist celebrity spotting as the grand and famous village names stroll serenely by through the coach window: Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, Saint-Estèphe… If you’re into wine and in particular Bordeaux red wine, a drive up the D2 road northwest of the city along the Gironde estuary offers a taste of the style, elegance and opulence, as you drool over some of these magnificent buildings and vineyards and dream of their produce caressing your palate or washing down some fine nosh. For these are France’s élite, the replacement aristocracy and that means top quality, sought-after and expensive. Read more of this article...

Portuguese pleasures: www.everywine.co.uk April 2001
Portugal has much to offer beyond Port, writes Richard James. Find out the low-down on the country's sun-drenched wines...
Portugal does indeed offer far more than Port. There are unfamiliar but intriguing local grapes, diverse wine-styles and warm people who actually seem to like the Brits. Portugal also offers a great range of wine-producing climates. Portuguese wine producers have benefited from grants given by the EU to modernise their wineries and improve their vineyards. So why aren’t we buying many of their wines? Is their exotic language a barrier? A fear of the unknown perhaps? Part of the problem lies in the fact that many British wine-drinkers are reluctant to explore beyond Port at Christmas and Mateus Rosé. Read more of this article...

Tutored tasting of CVNE and Contino old and rare Riojas by winemaker Jesús Madrazo Mateo. St. Stephen's Club London SW1, 21 March 2001. Originally appeared in the Circle of Wine Writers' Update.
"I was chuffed bordering on surprised at my apparent organisation surrounding three days of events from 20 – 22 March: train ticket from Manchester purchased sufficiently in advance to get the £20 fare, several tastings slotting neatly into place around the big Spanish affair including a tutored Italian on the Wednesday morning, if I/they got my/their skates on. Then the above, last minute-ish invitation landed in my inbox (I’ll resist any facetious speculation about second-tier bums-on-seats). I thought about it for perhaps 1.6 seconds – sorry ICE (Italian trade centre) but I guess I’m a tasting-slut. So time to squeeze in the Swiss first - “I’m afraid, sir, we’re going to have a problem…you can’t wear jeans upstairs,” informs the ‘bouncer’ at the Institute of Directors. Pity they didn’t mention that on the invitation. Still, there’s nothing like some time to kill in a wet and miserable Westminster to enhance your anticipation. On to St. Stephen's Club: looks a bit posh, I wonder if you can wear jeans..." Read more of this article...

Les Grandes Maisons d’Alsace
Tasting and lunch 26 February 2001, Le Gavroche London W1
“No bloody oaks…disgusting.” Hubert Trimbach set the tone nicely for this gathering of six high profile, family-owned Alsace Houses with representatives from each offering half-a-dozen or so (unoaked) white wines to taste and, of course, heart-felt commentary: Léon Beyer, Dopff au Moulin, Hugel & Fils, Kuentz Bas, Domaines Schlumberger and last but not least Trimbach. Price guide: A = £3-£5, B = £5-£7, C = £7-£10, D = £10-£15, E = £15-£20, F = +£20. (Notes on wines not necessarily typed in tasting order but as per booklet.) Read more of this article...

Wine to go with spicy food
www.virgin.net (now editorially defunct) food & drink 31/01/01
In the past beer (usually lager) was the automatic choice to drink with spicy food; the only method known to man of quenching that fiery thirst following consumption of a Vindaloo or similar `death by chilli` experience. There`s no denying cold German-style lager, cool, light but hoppy beers or even water are a safe bet: it`s asking a lot of a wine to tackle very hot food like this. But given the diversity and popularity of Asian cuisine and restaurants and the array of exotic ingredients involved, surely wine should be the natural partner? Read more of this article...

Fizz for less... cheap Champagne alternatives www.virgin.net
Food & drink 12/12/00
It's true that decent champagne can lift you up and take you to a better place, but unfortunately the price tag very soon brings you back down to earth with a thump. And generally speaking, with cheap champers, and shockingly even some high price brands, you get exactly what you pay for - rather too young, lean and acidic. Luckily nowadays it's easy enough to find alternatives, which still taste good and offer excellent value...
Read more of this article...

Unusual Christmas wines, spirits and liqueurs www.virgin.net
Food & drink 19/12/00
The festive season is upon us, and the Christmas gastronomic onslaught is about to begin. Some of us might feel the need to get a little merry at some point to cope with the sheer mind-boggling-ness (and some might say hell) of it all. If your relatives are shrieking in your ear, and you need to take the edge off things, why not sit back with a glass of something a bit less commonplace than your usual sweet sherry? We've got the info on the less used-and-abused Christmas spirits and liqueurs... Read more of this article...

Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé! www.virgin.net
Food & drink 14/11/00
Guzzling gallons
Looking at the figures for the last two years, we don't seem to be that bothered nowadays about Beaujolais Nouveau - only 740,000 bottles came into the country in 1999 which was 12% less than the previous year. Sounds like quite a lot? Well, it's the wee-est of drams compared to our friends in Germany and Japan - they guzzled a whopping 10 and 6 million bottles respectively last November. Not including the French of course, who quaff most of their infantile red themselves. Read more of this article...

Home Magazine: Richard's wine column & wines of the month 1999 - 2000
"Enjoy a bit of retro chic browsing through over 200 tasting notes of my chosen wines of the month, including selections to go with the magazine's imaginative recipes. These follow or form part of the editorial: my monthly wine column in 'Home' for most of the period April 1999 to December 2000 (the missing months are lost in the mists of time, unless you're a hoarder like me and have got actual copies of those issues). Interesting to note, nearly ten years later, how things have changed since then: this page was rebuilt summer 2008 (although still needs a few finishing touches...)"
First ‘relaunch’ issue April 1999: "It would be difficult not to have noticed the extraordinary changes in the world of wine in the UK over the past few years: just walk the aisles in any supermarket and take in the bewildering array of labels, grape varieties and countries that assault the eye (and hopefully the taste buds). ‘World of wine’ are the right words too - few other countries have such diversity on sale as we do here..." Read on...

'Uncorked' 1998-2000
A selection of resurrected column inches published in City Life, Manchester (England as opposed to New England, that is). See above for more recent articles from the magazine and their food & drink guides, which have also been restored on this page...

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