tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9024711824943315162024-03-04T14:11:26.672+00:00WineWriting.comRichard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.comBlogger984125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-36290853303658076232024-03-04T14:09:00.000+00:002024-03-04T14:09:13.650+00:00Argentina: Malbec, Syrah and Pinot Noir.<div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Q0BhkOzUOJCCQgPf44NSGGRyjIPa0E5Sh2B2An302N-w12YYJLUZbh864DxF84mmlFDYhEk8AAE9SW7OoZmnpZUZ8LkRQQIJQg-vNLNj9waJwd2QRPpDRijG-I2eHCGmd7znTco2FuEGw944PVwppRBPxbBVlTrW83vNfclW_OWBIYo5G_1-UVlvNdA/s3150/original_bc3d596c-6834-4106-8f2f-0665153f6466_IMG_20230904_152825.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3150" data-original-width="1460" height="500" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Q0BhkOzUOJCCQgPf44NSGGRyjIPa0E5Sh2B2An302N-w12YYJLUZbh864DxF84mmlFDYhEk8AAE9SW7OoZmnpZUZ8LkRQQIJQg-vNLNj9waJwd2QRPpDRijG-I2eHCGmd7znTco2FuEGw944PVwppRBPxbBVlTrW83vNfclW_OWBIYo5G_1-UVlvNdA/w185-h400/original_bc3d596c-6834-4106-8f2f-0665153f6466_IMG_20230904_152825.jpg" width="230" /></a></div>Following my post on <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2024/02/argentina-cabernets-and-blends.html" target="_blank">Cabernets from Argentina</a>, this second instalment of a short duet about Argentinian reds moves on to Malbec, Syrah and Pinot Noir. Malbec is a familiar proposition nowadays: the variety came from southwest France to Argentina in the 1850s and now represents 40% of red grapes (<a href="https://www.winesofargentina.org" target="_blank">winesofargentina</a>). Syrah has a shorter history but has gained ground over the last decade, producing sometimes superb varietals and as a component of full spicy red blends.<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Luigi Bosca</b> De Sangre Malbec 2021, Luján de Cuyo Mendoza (abv): Intense concentrated red with aromatic yet meaty profile, very tasty red, superb. €22 Ireland (importer Barry & Fitzwilliam, Cork).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Masi Tupungato</b> Paso Doble 2021, Tupungato Valley Mendoza (14% abv): Malbec and Corvina. Tasty aromatic and tangy fruit with lingering floral while liquorice-y notes. Nice now. €18-€25 Ireland (Findlater & Co.).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Susana Balbo</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Signature Rosé 2022: 60% Malbec and 40% Pinot Noir. Attractively crisp and fresh vs ripe red fruits and slightly 'spritzy' yeast-lees intensity, very nice <i>rosado</i>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Late Harvest Malbec 2021: Late picked and dried on the vine, resulting in 80 grams per litre residual sugar. Absolutely delicious fruit, not so sweet in the end thanks to its fresh lively finish. Different. Irish importer for Susana Balbo = Wines Direct.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjljPrieAOnroHWjeisdcDRe6M45B6ALUAZmaeaovIo_0ADkncG_iYwb7gq5NyzLIc8UY7e1Nlm2HZiIVPn5nkgUTYKfiR7nkdeCMFhC-pMTqKpSJuh0GbYU4P3nEtJU8gMrvAalg2GydkixaGauubEzP1gl59BrsizBcw05lvKfUEetiTlSTE59CwPs00/s3723/original_12d661bf-b7d1-41a4-b11c-d6c0998b0908_IMG_20230904_161807.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1640" data-original-width="3723" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjljPrieAOnroHWjeisdcDRe6M45B6ALUAZmaeaovIo_0ADkncG_iYwb7gq5NyzLIc8UY7e1Nlm2HZiIVPn5nkgUTYKfiR7nkdeCMFhC-pMTqKpSJuh0GbYU4P3nEtJU8gMrvAalg2GydkixaGauubEzP1gl59BrsizBcw05lvKfUEetiTlSTE59CwPs00/w400-h176/original_12d661bf-b7d1-41a4-b11c-d6c0998b0908_IMG_20230904_161807.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Trivento</b> Private Reserve Malbec 2021: This well-known brand is made in Mendoza by Chilean giant Concha y Toro, and it's actually very nice (this one being the middle of a three-tier Malbec range). Not obviously oaky with aromatic cranberry and raspberry fruit, fresh and well-textured palate. Good. €13-€18 Ireland.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Felipe Staiti</b> Euforia Syrah 2020: Produced at Bodegas Monteviejo in Uco Valley, Mendoza, Staiti has made his mark with Malbec and Syrah. This powerful meaty red is 100% the latter, offering dark cherry aromas, firm but nicely rounded tannins and lingering tangy spicy black fruits. Very good.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">All three about €25 in Ireland (importer = Criado Wines).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Vertigo Blend 2019: 70% Malbec, 20% Syrah, 10% Cabernet Franc. Touches of coconut and cedar oak it's intense and concentrated with red and black fruit mix, punchy (15% abv) finish with attractive solid tannins.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Honor Blend 2019: 65% Malbec, 25% Cab Franc, 10% Cab Sauvignon. Toasty oak but it's loaded with lovely dark fruits, textured and spicy mouthfeel and very concentrated. Wow.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguJ1WtSISJuMExwecMyhYQE-CIRgbmr5b9Wdun5_sQ5hKmkjp1LpBVRJA26GJXNlum80BxqoVY1VxVrKWSe5eEu1V4fRxbO3ylHLqKv7Uth6bIBtPHINPAvhNpuAcjzZcJFIWQqBiA2RCEe3HYIX9pkT4FBiEahD2eV-bAwEanhqnhskImrTZz6NU7ygM/s3677/original_0e38fb54-b988-424e-9d46-f4c24a42cf64_IMG_20230904_162532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="3677" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguJ1WtSISJuMExwecMyhYQE-CIRgbmr5b9Wdun5_sQ5hKmkjp1LpBVRJA26GJXNlum80BxqoVY1VxVrKWSe5eEu1V4fRxbO3ylHLqKv7Uth6bIBtPHINPAvhNpuAcjzZcJFIWQqBiA2RCEe3HYIX9pkT4FBiEahD2eV-bAwEanhqnhskImrTZz6NU7ygM/w400-h340/original_0e38fb54-b988-424e-9d46-f4c24a42cf64_IMG_20230904_162532.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Rutini</b> Trumpeter Malbec Syrah 2021: This 60-40 blend had aromatic and peppery blackcurrant fruit with tasty soft palate, drinking nicely now. €18-€25 Ireland (Criado).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Dona Paula Estate</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Black Edition 2020 (14% abv): 60% Malbec, 35% Cabernets, 5% Petit Verdot from Luján de Cuyo; 9 months in barrel. Cassis and cranberry notes with a meatier more structured side, concentrated mouthfeel, drinking now but will keep longer. €13-€18 Ireland (Bibendum).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Blue Edition Red Velvet Blend 2021: Malbec and Pinot Noir. Tasty wine with aromatic sweet/savoury notes vs fresher crunchier fruit, drinking very nicely. €13-€18.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Bianchi</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Famiglia Bianchi Malbec 2020: Their vineyards and winery are located in San Rafael, Mendoza. Enticing floral red fruit nose moving on to a meatier firmer palate, well-textured tannins. €20+</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Famiglia Gran Uco Valley Malbec 2020: Concentrated and meaty with sweet cranberry fruit tones, again structured mouthfeel but with fine tannins. €35</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Bianchi Particular Grand Reserve 2020: Malbec with 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Still quite tight and firm on the palate with similar attractive meatiness, concentrated and good quality, although more austere at the moment showing its ageing potential I reckon. €40</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Irish importer = Dalcassian Wines, Dublin.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYFVVwUh2jPGN2-pZap9-fGVKLNCkT7-29naQR7G4bhdcobYBtCtfWC45evxopbLXMXKNgpHrwoW4i-YzcJQLSXW9dFK5K1Up_fbsSTT1lveOWey80Y7JwBLePvBLThounKI0BM1F-E2h1mOv_0hdMgxXPB820OyT5_ZnWSYv4LBlqCAiOU2Z8P4CLeA4/s4011/original_dc90dd54-ab95-4b51-b922-98918f8f16e2_IMG_20230904_152959.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1860" data-original-width="4011" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYFVVwUh2jPGN2-pZap9-fGVKLNCkT7-29naQR7G4bhdcobYBtCtfWC45evxopbLXMXKNgpHrwoW4i-YzcJQLSXW9dFK5K1Up_fbsSTT1lveOWey80Y7JwBLePvBLThounKI0BM1F-E2h1mOv_0hdMgxXPB820OyT5_ZnWSYv4LBlqCAiOU2Z8P4CLeA4/w400-h185/original_dc90dd54-ab95-4b51-b922-98918f8f16e2_IMG_20230904_152959.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Andeluna Cellars</b> Pasionado Cuatro Cepas 2018: 35% Malbec, 35% Merlot, 30% Cabernets. Delicious red blend offering a mix of aromatic yet savoury fruit, punchy and firm mouthfeel but it's ripe and meaty too with tasty dried fruit finish. Good stuff. €32 Ireland (Wines on the Green, Dublin).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Pinot Noir</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Looking at the Balbo rosé and Dona Paula Red Velvet above, Pinot is also obviously a success for both styles when blended with Malbec. These two are 100% Pinot:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Rutini </b>Coleccion Pinot Noir 2020: Uco Valley. Maturing and savoury with elegant tasty palate, concentrated too, lovely Pinot. €25+ Ireland (Criado).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Salentein </b>Pinot Noir 2018: Uco Valley. Mature sweet/savoury Pinot styling, delicate and tasty, drinking now. Good. €22 Ireland (Mackenway).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-78094184888885572432024-02-17T20:11:00.000+00:002024-02-17T20:11:09.240+00:00Argentina: Cabernets and blends.<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir18p-FQq16kJ7unq0loy_sDzShvZtsQW8FBhYNzMxcduTL5dTLSYzuV0TbzhqA7mqo7S8R3QPt6SLEcFyHPV7WVKLFOSeGsPz8nh7aFj5ZMmBS3Gisj_4IdkooNP17B4HrLa7N4Zrt2FtMP7I2a2JmcIyjIa7oL3cvEI5UZTuA0vtNz612Q6xvdqFJ3w/s4051/original_9742f115-daff-41ca-b759-0d1d47eff2cb_IMG_20230904_152900.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="2503" data-original-width="4051" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir18p-FQq16kJ7unq0loy_sDzShvZtsQW8FBhYNzMxcduTL5dTLSYzuV0TbzhqA7mqo7S8R3QPt6SLEcFyHPV7WVKLFOSeGsPz8nh7aFj5ZMmBS3Gisj_4IdkooNP17B4HrLa7N4Zrt2FtMP7I2a2JmcIyjIa7oL3cvEI5UZTuA0vtNz612Q6xvdqFJ3w/w400-h248/original_9742f115-daff-41ca-b759-0d1d47eff2cb_IMG_20230904_152900.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">The first of two features on red wines from Argentina centres on Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc and combinations with other grapes. Some of these include the nation's darling variety Malbec as a lesser percentage of the blend; the next post will cover wines made from all or mostly Malbec and/or Syrah, where Malbec or Syrah take the lead role (with other grapes). So, if you're still with me, here are 10 sexy Argentinean Cabs worth lifting.<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Catena Zapata</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">All €18 to €25 in Ireland (importer - Cassidy Wines).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Appellation San Carlos Cabernet Franc 2019 (13.6% abv): 100% CF from San Carlos Vineyard (1090 metres altitude), 12 months in French oak barrels. Delicious aromatic crunchy fruit but nice and ripe with cranberry and cherry overtones, lovely maturing red. UK £16-£18. US $20-$25.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Appellation Agrelo Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (13.5% abv): 100% CS from Agrelo Vineyard Mendoza (950 m), same cask ageing. Tasty cassis and ripe blackcurrant fruit, firm palate but with attractive chalky tannins. £18-£19 UK. $22-$25 US/CA.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">High Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (13.6% abv): 91% Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot from four vineyards at 950-1120 m, similar barrel ageing. Inkier colour than the Cab above with darker fruit profile, quite structured mouthfeel with fresh and tangy tones then finishing with ripe plum fruit too. £13-£15 UK. $17-$20 US. $27 CA.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQKyKrQ6NyQLjctQrTdZSeuRE0hG3NoX8G4hY-GIhKuaXqHmfX1r9vHChUARvMeOCvcGs7vOLo6rz1fOFNWON_wL6QloRootEZrQNBpP_04C1zmS2cd28nenDs0U1W2WwZXiscyDy-iQqYjDQLiKT3NaepwC00yiqEV9XCRPMRRHJCVoFsRivoyOFHT7s/s4160/original_a52a426a-d2e9-47f2-bbf4-51a3bf23b402_IMG_20230904_162542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1206" data-original-width="4160" height="116" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQKyKrQ6NyQLjctQrTdZSeuRE0hG3NoX8G4hY-GIhKuaXqHmfX1r9vHChUARvMeOCvcGs7vOLo6rz1fOFNWON_wL6QloRootEZrQNBpP_04C1zmS2cd28nenDs0U1W2WwZXiscyDy-iQqYjDQLiKT3NaepwC00yiqEV9XCRPMRRHJCVoFsRivoyOFHT7s/w400-h116/original_a52a426a-d2e9-47f2-bbf4-51a3bf23b402_IMG_20230904_162542.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Andeluna Cellars</b> Pasionado Cabernet Franc 2020 (14.5% abv): 28 year-old vines at 1300 metres altitude in Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza. Aged in new French oak for 18 months and 12 months in bottle before release. Aromatic red fruits and spicy tomato notes, soft maturing mouthfeel yet still alive and fresh. Classy although pricey. €52 Celtic Whiskey Shop / Wines on the Green (Dublin). £35-£38 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Atamisque</b> Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (14.5% abv): Also from Tupungato, similar altitude. 14 months in new French oak. Cherry and cassis fruit on a still quite closed up palate, concentrated and powerful but well balanced too. €29-€32 Ireland. £22 UK. $32 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Rutini </b> Single Vineyard Gualtallary Cabernet Franc 2017: Uco Valley, 1235m above sea level; 14 months in different barrels. Maturing and elegant, enticing mix of ripe and spicy fruit with herby tones too, with fine lingering finish. Posh wine, posh price. €65 Ireland (importer - Criado Wines). £57-£60 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Luigi Bosca</b> Cabernet Sauvignon 2019: 100% CS, aged 14 months in cask. Maturing meaty nose layered with cassis fruit, chunky structured palate with tasty ripe-fruit finish. €19 Ireland (importer - Barry & Fitzwilliam). £17 UK. $20 Canada/US.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwCSftGUUYShniymEhlbCE7fB-x-gG8pR9B9kb6VpkA7ZxUeELKI5hXEMhSVa15QKBxOyt1ChQ63st2__siXhOpQFXpGbJrr-2GGT5jq-XirStDL8w4xRucXlbjspTRAqDd10zDlATx_izastriGWvbttJ1cZnkujQzs-x2u3ETTgBmA5zguI1VPlS9xk/s599/lb-insignia-cabernet-sauvignon-cropped.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="360" data-original-width="599" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwCSftGUUYShniymEhlbCE7fB-x-gG8pR9B9kb6VpkA7ZxUeELKI5hXEMhSVa15QKBxOyt1ChQ63st2__siXhOpQFXpGbJrr-2GGT5jq-XirStDL8w4xRucXlbjspTRAqDd10zDlATx_izastriGWvbttJ1cZnkujQzs-x2u3ETTgBmA5zguI1VPlS9xk/w400-h240/lb-insignia-cabernet-sauvignon-cropped.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Salentein</b> Numina Cabernet Franc 2020 (14.5% abv): Another very tasty 100% Cab Franc from the Valle de Uco (1100 metres) with spicy red pepper fruit, a touch of oak (14 months in barrel) while ripe and fresh still on its long finish. On the dear side again though. €28-€35 Ireland (Mackenway/Wines on the Green). €29-€33 Portugal, Spain, Netherlands. £26-£29 UK. $41 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Susana Balbo</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">US importer - Folio Wine, Napa.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (14.5% abv): 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Malbec from Gualtallary, Valle de Uco (1300m); 13 months in French oak (30% new, 70% second-use). Tangy and fresh with blackcurrant and darker fruits, firm and solid still needing further time in bottle, but it's very good for sure. £23-£27 UK. $22-$28 US/CA.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Signature Brioso 2021 (14.5% abv): 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Malbec, 18% Cabernet Franc, 9% Petit Verdot from Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo (980m); 15 months in new French oak barrels. Concentrated and structured mouthfeel yet with lovely fruit nuanced by light oak texture; wow, serious 'premium' red. £31-£38 UK. $47 US.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs0vK_uPdqTck04Ynxvr2Rv-wFoHZ63NTfO7hAqjo7Oi6dc0eC2FIYtc-AxOOvdfMnQ7g9EPcbUAYlECtGHmQuL6xQlMaLLPgv_TuJA02U0dhZ4qFGmyjMbKwnoXWHZjXzAuiLRmCCDrP4FltkT8hu_57E9eduNEQijoxOCdoSw-reWM2u_5YRWN1kzPk/s4160/original_2885f7b4-a535-4e8c-ba52-7a40811ca4ef_IMG_20230904_161820.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2419" data-original-width="4160" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs0vK_uPdqTck04Ynxvr2Rv-wFoHZ63NTfO7hAqjo7Oi6dc0eC2FIYtc-AxOOvdfMnQ7g9EPcbUAYlECtGHmQuL6xQlMaLLPgv_TuJA02U0dhZ4qFGmyjMbKwnoXWHZjXzAuiLRmCCDrP4FltkT8hu_57E9eduNEQijoxOCdoSw-reWM2u_5YRWN1kzPk/w400-h233/original_2885f7b4-a535-4e8c-ba52-7a40811ca4ef_IMG_20230904_161820.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-1798143226496304842024-01-08T11:43:00.000+00:002024-01-08T11:43:03.504+00:00Languedoc: Malepère.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOxQ0Wwc7iBF-GV2tCU3lgP4Ij0AAsdZIdMfvKCitxhRGTmb_8A6PUIEtQHbp4dOKQjGQjC8UbX2cuwmXYR0sJpi5HUdL3N5ahvNaoNmfx-HZd8ZmpNGKUK__Pa01EvIsx9tjlUNHGx187qVurYro61UTvTI8EJFWpROtTWEYfIDUPUO_yUPuMiNfLbZg/s3875/IMG_20230502_205822.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2556" data-original-width="3875" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOxQ0Wwc7iBF-GV2tCU3lgP4Ij0AAsdZIdMfvKCitxhRGTmb_8A6PUIEtQHbp4dOKQjGQjC8UbX2cuwmXYR0sJpi5HUdL3N5ahvNaoNmfx-HZd8ZmpNGKUK__Pa01EvIsx9tjlUNHGx187qVurYro61UTvTI8EJFWpROtTWEYfIDUPUO_yUPuMiNfLbZg/w400-h264/IMG_20230502_205822.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">The <i>casse-croûte</i> of the <i>cassoulet</i> in Malepère.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Located to the northwest of <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/12/languedoc-limoux.html" target="_blank">Limoux</a> and southwest of Carcassonne, Malepère is the most westerly of the Languedoc's appellations and probably one of the least known wine areas in the whole region. There's an eclectic mix of Mediterranean and Atlantic vine types, and the local wine people have cooked up an interesting story around how climatic influences from both 'sides' suit these nevertheless dissimilar grape varieties (seven authorised).<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">You have to wonder though if the original decision to plant all these different varieties somewhat precedes the subsequent romantic PR, which attempts to give Malepère its point of difference. You can read about this on <a href="https://www.aop-malepere.fr/" target="_blank">the official website</a>, as I'm not going to regurgitate it here. While there certainly are some delicious reds made from e.g. Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Grenache (as a blend for AOP red or rosé and Pays d'Oc if varietal or white), I'm not convinced that say Cabernet Sauvignon is very successful in this zone (the reds I liked the least out of quite a few tasted).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Popular white varieties are far from disappointing though, as evidenced by the half-dozen picked below, with some good quality, and value, Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon readily available. And <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/08/rose-languedoc-vs-roussillon.html" target="_blank">click here to discover a couple of tasty rosés</a> from Malepère.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz0tLqLDh5fJJJlQl9EM-FOea0F_n53FhwUZin1fKmson85FSvFMylRvcQC7FTuXqUEucBlIJ5QGUAP-RJ4tHqSbA4B4Wmu-jm6CwHrLuVaNQSSaeCWVCBggUzJ150LbbZSGKCUrYOlJ5KTJapuNgjy45x9BIdGmFAakxZEnUiWuSNTzeKdSDX6E6AmoA/s1050/Dame.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="561" data-original-width="1050" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz0tLqLDh5fJJJlQl9EM-FOea0F_n53FhwUZin1fKmson85FSvFMylRvcQC7FTuXqUEucBlIJ5QGUAP-RJ4tHqSbA4B4Wmu-jm6CwHrLuVaNQSSaeCWVCBggUzJ150LbbZSGKCUrYOlJ5KTJapuNgjy45x9BIdGmFAakxZEnUiWuSNTzeKdSDX6E6AmoA/w400-h214/Dame.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.lepasdeladame.fr/" target="_blank">From lepasdeladame.fr</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">WHITE</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château Guilhem</b> Vignes du Levant blanc 2022 (13% abv): 85% Sauvignon, 15% Chardonnay. Attractive aromatic and fresh SB-led style, zingy finish. €12-€13 France, Netherlands, Germany. CZK 335. DKK 139.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Le Pas de la Dame</b> Epouse-Moi! 2022 (13% abv): Chardonnay. Aromatic and nutty with mineral freshness, zesty tasty and long. €9.40 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine La Louvière</b> Le Libertin Sauvignon Blanc 2022 (12% abv): SB indeed, crisp and lively citrus fruit, quite intense, pretty good. €9.90 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine La Louvière</b> La Muse 2022 (13.5% abv): Viognier and Chardonnay (aged in French oak) with Chenin Blanc. Rich ripe and aromatic, exotic fruit flavours lead to a crisper side, again very nice. €13.90 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Le Mas de Mon Père</b> Quitte ou Double 2022 (13% abv): Mostly Chasan with Sauvignon Gris and Chardonnay, 50-50 barrel and tank for 6 months, low dose of SO2. Natural leaning style but good with it, nutty and intense finish. Quite dear though: €17-€22 France, Netherlands. US: Terres Blanches Wine.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Rose et Paul</b> Chardonnay Selection 2020 (13% abv): Stored 3 months on the lees. Delicious, good quality Chardonnay with maturing buttery and nutty flavours and texture. €9-€10.50 France, Germany, Belgium.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilnvCz0XobAlVNSXPpcK3btRrhD5xL_tP_BJ8G3NuXNcMIVqgG3CVIARBoNhq7rRRzOWluf3LdupKPli2RTfrsac2llZLV0G0K1fV_RGThz6tVp15Mnep-KL2lf0SMoPX1oAiS9sNuF6c28-4yIJzwnsR6c9E4gKEbcShH6NdrVlT-lH3KfJ_z4pCt_Ec/s855/blanc_chardonnay_2019_RosePaul-585x1024.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="244" data-original-width="855" height="114" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilnvCz0XobAlVNSXPpcK3btRrhD5xL_tP_BJ8G3NuXNcMIVqgG3CVIARBoNhq7rRRzOWluf3LdupKPli2RTfrsac2llZLV0G0K1fV_RGThz6tVp15Mnep-KL2lf0SMoPX1oAiS9sNuF6c28-4yIJzwnsR6c9E4gKEbcShH6NdrVlT-lH3KfJ_z4pCt_Ec/w400-h114/blanc_chardonnay_2019_RosePaul-585x1024.png" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">From <a href="https://www.rose-paul.fr/" target="_blank">rose-paul.fr</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">RED</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château de Cointes</b> Marie Anne 2019 (14.5% abv): 40%-50% Merlot, 25%-30% Cabernet Franc, 25%-30% Grenache; no oak. Ripe fruit and maturing notes on the nose and palate countered by some firm tannin but well textured too. €11-€12.50 France, Germany, Belgium. £13.50 UK. 4400円 Japan.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château Guilhem </b>Vignes du Levant rouge 2021: 50% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Malbec; 8 months in used casks. Ripe and aromatic fruit leading to more savoury flavours on the palate, very nice red. €13 France, Germany, Belgium. CZK 249. $18 Lebanon.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château Guilhem</b> Grand Vin rouge 2020: 50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Franc (over 30 years old), aged 12 months in barrels. Hints of cedary oak, firmer structured but the tannins are rounded, fairly concentrated finish. €19-€22 France, Germany, Belgium, Netherlands. Denmark. $20-$29 Lebanon.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Le Pas de la Dame</b> Dans Tes Rèves! 2019 (13.5% abv): Merlot, Cabernet Franc. A touch of spice to start, concentrated and powerful with nice savoury flavours vs solid fruit on the finish. Good value. €9.40 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-bfQlwLmJTJorNI4P7mZ9VARG0RLFHY-d_kEf2YhTHvZHSDlLDuf6vSP-1sa1_rJaZrrYD03cMMTqwwG-bIE_qRSXHf1Ffuc16qqEcEsWxWYMPeyudV_ehx_ZIKJzP7TpRD-NAwCK1t11-Quc5pqQwaXSaLrPRW8J8LnLDfFEsZYVQ9PfX39afNbpta4/s3680/IMG_20230502_192133.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="3680" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-bfQlwLmJTJorNI4P7mZ9VARG0RLFHY-d_kEf2YhTHvZHSDlLDuf6vSP-1sa1_rJaZrrYD03cMMTqwwG-bIE_qRSXHf1Ffuc16qqEcEsWxWYMPeyudV_ehx_ZIKJzP7TpRD-NAwCK1t11-Quc5pqQwaXSaLrPRW8J8LnLDfFEsZYVQ9PfX39afNbpta4/w400-h339/IMG_20230502_192133.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Kinky labels by La Louvière...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine La Louvière</b> La Maitresse 2021 (14.5% abv): Merlot 60%, Cabernet Franc 20%, Malbec 20%. Delicious fruit, plummy and spicy with attractive chalky tannins. Good. €11.50 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine La Louvière</b> La Séductrice 2021: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec; aged 12 months in barrel. Hints of oak but also has the same lovely fruit to the fore, firmer mouthfeel this time but again nice textured tannins. €14.50 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Also: US, UK, Belgium, Germany and elsewhere in 'northern Europe', Switzerland.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Le Mas de Mon Père</b> M Comme Je Suis 2015: Merlot and Cabernets, matured in large old casks, low SO2 addition (as for all their wines). Wild smoky and rustic but pretty intense and lingering. €12-€17 France. £18 UK. US importer for their range: Terres Blanches Wine.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Le Mas de Mon Père</b> M Comme Je Suis 2017: Similar characteristics although fruitier and more concentrated, good red. $21 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Le Mas de Mon Père</b> Malepère 2022: Mostly Merlot. Gorgeous crunchy fruit, tight and chalky mouthfeel, should be good. €12 France?</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Le Mas de Mon Père</b> Red de Toi! 2022: Merlot. Rich plummy and spicy, delicious. €17-€22 France, Netherlands. CHF 26.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Le Mas de Mon Père</b> Cause Toujours 2022 (12.5% abv): Malbec. Aromatic red fruits on the nose, nice spicy palate, another tasty even if dear red. €17-€21.50 France. CHF 28.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Girard</b> Pinot Noir Pays d'Oc: I tried this over dinner - a good match for the magnificent <i>cassoulet</i> photoed top and below - and didn't note the vintage. Currently available in different countries are 2021 and 2022, this is one of two tasty Pinots they produce from a 30+ year-old hillside block facing northeast planted at 350 metres altitude. €10-€11 France. £14-£19 UK (good distribution). €19 Ireland. $21-$32 US, Canada.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBg9fK3f3D87bNPmvXApxChZfYQT2dLVMyGB7jdBmjLnEbmf3L0g1R8VWWCOS-cvB43854WqD1OBpUXqo-0M73tDelo6-jCdmMZGDSE3p92DFKIY-XUbhZr4Js7dONQm0bm1_DtpMu4r3Ra1Yu-LDX41e2cLQPKWxYIoUjelh2yOKVS1tJUHctgQ4FmqU/s4160/IMG_20230502_210131.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBg9fK3f3D87bNPmvXApxChZfYQT2dLVMyGB7jdBmjLnEbmf3L0g1R8VWWCOS-cvB43854WqD1OBpUXqo-0M73tDelo6-jCdmMZGDSE3p92DFKIY-XUbhZr4Js7dONQm0bm1_DtpMu4r3Ra1Yu-LDX41e2cLQPKWxYIoUjelh2yOKVS1tJUHctgQ4FmqU/w400-h300/IMG_20230502_210131.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-66922761580823743012023-12-13T21:55:00.002+00:002023-12-14T14:59:51.947+00:00Languedoc: Limoux.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglKP5I59OXKWPQxXrdLMy1NDchLGuSGxK-pM23VlNWwLlD6oCXUsVqRPAuErHEWT2piUcvC_T5ZNxYhADG3JkDB09kPoS5UhhrbsbLwZRV596sDJKRKZ8-yOWzmL5WtFaIOcfX-5O-6Xbbm5yxTwj1PR229_mdMDbpDsukR1Kyaec97-NGQtsfykeAiK8/s4160/IMG_20230502_130232.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="335" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglKP5I59OXKWPQxXrdLMy1NDchLGuSGxK-pM23VlNWwLlD6oCXUsVqRPAuErHEWT2piUcvC_T5ZNxYhADG3JkDB09kPoS5UhhrbsbLwZRV596sDJKRKZ8-yOWzmL5WtFaIOcfX-5O-6Xbbm5yxTwj1PR229_mdMDbpDsukR1Kyaec97-NGQtsfykeAiK8/w400-h300/IMG_20230502_130232.jpg" width="450" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Château de Flandry, Limoux.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Perhaps not that famous outside of France (although many of the wines recommended here are well distributed in Europe and North America), the Limoux region stretches mostly to the south, west and north of the visit-worthy town of Limoux in southwestern Languedoc, about half an hour south of Carcassonne. The vineyards are often planted on hillsides enhancing the slightly cooler climate this area enjoys, which is home to some classy sparkling wines, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir among others.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Château Rives-Blanques, Cépie.</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Odyssée Chardonnay 2021: Fermented and matured in barrels for 10 months with occasional lees-stirring. Enticing mix of yeast-lees nuances and creamy notes, well balanced and still quite youthful with lingering zesty lees tones. €15-€18 France, Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, Slovakia. $20-$25 US, Canada. £17.50-£19.50 UK. CHF 17-19. €24 Lithuania.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Domaine J. Laurens, La Digne-d'Aval.</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">They only make tasty fizz and have been doing it for a while, each one matured for 9 to 12 months, or longer for certain cuvées, in bottle on the yeast-lees. Bottle shot from <a href="https://www.jlaurens.fr/" target="_blank">jlaurens.fr</a>. Most of these are imported into the US by Cynthia Hurley French Wines, and by Boutinot in the UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">L'Auriol Mauzac Blanquette de Limoux Brut Nature: No added sweetening <i>dosage</i>. Toasty and rich while appley and very dry on the finish, classy. €12.80 France, €16.20 Belgium. $20 US. 209Kr Sweden. £16 UK.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSe-z0Z_d9Z8zde8U2_Bgy6Z0P_Ic21IIZtXgwKBpc2Al55NtxOthQY-XGb_kMqRlsoy-gfkeElJqFo58mfytmIS2tH0f8r-aTauWqxAcMnT3manCiEKCmYpCif6iVkSdegFDED3uvZrBBZi-MzFpXJqvkiQPdT0_BGargOsqwDFGiTi3aVUOl4U0jrXA/s1904/l_auriol_2_1024x1024@2x.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="519" data-original-width="1904" height="109" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSe-z0Z_d9Z8zde8U2_Bgy6Z0P_Ic21IIZtXgwKBpc2Al55NtxOthQY-XGb_kMqRlsoy-gfkeElJqFo58mfytmIS2tH0f8r-aTauWqxAcMnT3manCiEKCmYpCif6iVkSdegFDED3uvZrBBZi-MzFpXJqvkiQPdT0_BGargOsqwDFGiTi3aVUOl4U0jrXA/w400-h109/l_auriol_2_1024x1024@2x.png" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Clos des Demoiselles Crémant de Limoux 2020: Vintage selection of 60% Chardonnay, 25% Chenin and 15% Pinot Noir with longer ageing on the lees. Elegant subtle and fresh with toasty yeasty aromas and flavours, very good. €15-€18 France, Belgium, Netherlands. $50 Aus. €32 Dublin. $23-$25 US, Canada. 24 CHF.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">La Rose No. 7 Crémant de Limoux Rosé: 60% Chardonnay, 25% Chenin and 15% Pinot Noir. Attractive mix of red fruits, yeast lees notes and subtle toasted almond flavours. France €13.30. £15-£20 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Blanquette de Limoux Méthode Ancestrale: 100% Mauzac, partially fermented to around 6.5% abv leaving natural sweetness. Quirky and sweet but light, different for sure. €11.40 France. £11-£15 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Clos des Demoiselles Crémant de Limoux Rosé: 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 10% Chenin; 20 months lees-ageing. Fruity and aromatic with yeasty intensity to finish, another class bubbly. €15 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Maison Antech, Limoux.</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWW1iFAFBI8KDZg79uV5QJNF4KpHmKvp9x23TagJO1lDryMnLm3I_v3cH1R_g6QpqJMBUkTnfY6_xxTgIIDmlGnW0jvxTptuVLuSrV6e7UNEFh2LUry_CXLbCXfRng7HyIHU2iY8H1mj3ty8e6DyQk4Ixi4iKpCyJWmmevDhPBoT9GibBB9nXuBW12hxw/s1024/Francoise.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="681" data-original-width="1024" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWW1iFAFBI8KDZg79uV5QJNF4KpHmKvp9x23TagJO1lDryMnLm3I_v3cH1R_g6QpqJMBUkTnfY6_xxTgIIDmlGnW0jvxTptuVLuSrV6e7UNEFh2LUry_CXLbCXfRng7HyIHU2iY8H1mj3ty8e6DyQk4Ixi4iKpCyJWmmevDhPBoT9GibBB9nXuBW12hxw/w400-h266/Francoise.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Françoise Antech-Gazeau <a href="https://www.antech-limoux.com/" target="_blank">antech-limoux.com</a>.</div><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">M 3.0 Le Mauzac Blanquette de Limoux Brut Nature (12% abv, no <i>dosage</i> added): Intense and dry vs rich and yeast-leesy, delicious. €20-€24 France, Netherlands. €29 Hungary. £22.75 UK. $20 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Antech Réserve Blanquette de Limoux Brut 2019 (12% abv, <i>dosage</i> 10 g/l): Mauzac, Chenin, Chardonnay; 18 months lees-ageing. Fruitier and richer while less dry, another class bubbly. £12.50-£14 UK (2021 Wine Society). €13.50-€15 France, Germany, Czech Republic, Belgium, Netherlands. €28 Ireland. $35 Aus. $20-$22 US & CA.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cuvée Eugénie Crémant de Limoux Brut 2020 (12% abv, <i>dosage</i> 8 g/l): Chardonnay, Chenin, Mauzac; 18 months lees-ageing. Elegant fresh and structured mouthfeel vs toasty and tasty, closes up on the finish, very good. €14-€16 France, Germany. $16-$22 US. £18 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cuvée Emotion Rosé Crémant de Limoux Brut 2020 (12% abv, <i>dosage</i> 8 g/l): Chardonnay, Chenin, Mauzac, Pinot Noir; 18 months lees-ageing. Red fruity nose and flavours with textured biscuity palate, very nice indeed. €15-€16 France. $17-$22 US. £17-£18 UK.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY5HphhFe7TPGqoY24XJ8Uss3cdidp8JYdDZ6BXcQO31F16ST3VafEn3JeDKWP_XdV7bf_8AEPRw-s243wfBMivFZ-s-FuqXponT4TUCcfVEwufnU8p0crvkqylZJSTPT68acF_WFM1oYKEFPQ2ieQyokgKEJCyxB-8E27V4AW0VlbLdLNYHUy1-f79ps/s467/fc43211_limoux-blanc-domaine-de-mouscaillo-2019_2.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="467" data-original-width="417" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY5HphhFe7TPGqoY24XJ8Uss3cdidp8JYdDZ6BXcQO31F16ST3VafEn3JeDKWP_XdV7bf_8AEPRw-s243wfBMivFZ-s-FuqXponT4TUCcfVEwufnU8p0crvkqylZJSTPT68acF_WFM1oYKEFPQ2ieQyokgKEJCyxB-8E27V4AW0VlbLdLNYHUy1-f79ps/s320/fc43211_limoux-blanc-domaine-de-mouscaillo-2019_2.png" width="286" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Domaine Mouscaillo, Roquetaillade.</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Limoux Blanc 2019 (13.5% abv): Chardonnay (90%), Chenin and Mauzac, 25 to 50 year-old vines from two blocks at 400 metres altitude, one facing north and one south. Fermented then aged in used 500/600 litre barrels for 11 months with lees-stirring, 12+ months in bottle. Still quite toasty oak to start but it's mature, creamy and rounded with lovely nutty flavours. €16-€18.50 France, Netherlands. £16 UK (2021 The Wine Society). $22-$27 US, Canada.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Crémant de Limoux Brut Nature 2020 (12.5% abv): First pressing of Chardonnay (60%), Pinot Noir (30%), Chenin (10%); fermented and aged on the lees for 8 months in old casks, second fermentation in bottle by adding 'our own grape must', matured for a minimum of 18 months. Another very dry fizz with no added <i>dosage</i>, which is happening more and more in the area apparently. Creamy and toasty with a wilder 'natural' side, complex and tasty. €17-€19 France. $24 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzeWVw8-udkUI1y4EI57aCQHCDqGpudOAaS7zojXaFrIgGCodqcZhdyUgsCyeQeLLbycSg3_pMRPKR1L5qiDtWLccNo2sWSjdlJ_ITxtpvzlxtvTRu7u7AI7m089jHYypwiDlYJiT-rvMTJhUSpGtMAHhgvrUg_TdOgGJZX5to4EYwn8Hmg3xzD8nTJ9c/s812/2.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="277" data-original-width="812" height="136" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzeWVw8-udkUI1y4EI57aCQHCDqGpudOAaS7zojXaFrIgGCodqcZhdyUgsCyeQeLLbycSg3_pMRPKR1L5qiDtWLccNo2sWSjdlJ_ITxtpvzlxtvTRu7u7AI7m089jHYypwiDlYJiT-rvMTJhUSpGtMAHhgvrUg_TdOgGJZX5to4EYwn8Hmg3xzD8nTJ9c/w400-h136/2.png" width="400" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Domaine Bernatas, La Digne-d'Amont.</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Brothers Jérôme and Stéphane set up this small-scale operation five years ago farming 6.5 ha of hillside vineyards biodynamically.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">La Petite Cordillère 2021: Chenin Blanc from 'Pa d'en Sastre' block, 8 months' ageing in different cask-sizes. Natural-leaning style yet rich nutty and intense, very good. €19 France. £31 UK. 195Kr DK. $37 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">L'Outreblanc 2021: Chardonnay from 'Peilhagon', matured in old tuns. Toasty and textured balanced by fresh acidity, nice wilder side to it with lovely elegant lingering finish. €19 France. £31 UK. 195Kr DK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">M et Nous 2019: Mauzac from 'Le Pla', whole bunch carbonic maceration, cask ageing. Quite deep colour, amazing lush ripe nose but the palate is dry, textured and nutty, powerful yet stylish. Wow. €25 France. 229Kr DK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Domaine Delmas, Antugnac.</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlsE3zi1_gtmZB3gRM8IWOLMfzEyvKVr3cHLvgn07lPVLQGwVp1WFINVrLxdaqI4tjBCjauBWRxGJpr5wFjo0yWdR1Ojzgzt3tspjn8EyAya4yl1V_1RZBsKNgb_ug8uDZe6Kbyzq-zbFzRfNGUcjslAUiFhuY4xazgf2iDgx2TRbPBevfLIdjq9p-0yo/s3429/original_547c67fc-5619-49db-9492-2508d7746fc2_IMG_20230502_151617.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2940" data-original-width="3429" height="343" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlsE3zi1_gtmZB3gRM8IWOLMfzEyvKVr3cHLvgn07lPVLQGwVp1WFINVrLxdaqI4tjBCjauBWRxGJpr5wFjo0yWdR1Ojzgzt3tspjn8EyAya4yl1V_1RZBsKNgb_ug8uDZe6Kbyzq-zbFzRfNGUcjslAUiFhuY4xazgf2iDgx2TRbPBevfLIdjq9p-0yo/w400-h343/original_547c67fc-5619-49db-9492-2508d7746fc2_IMG_20230502_151617.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Tradition Blanquette de Limoux Extra Brut (12.5% abv): Mauzac, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay (400 metres altitude); maturated on lees for 24 months, residual sugar below 6 g/l. Toasty and elegant at the same time, pretty intense with lingering flavours and fresh bite. €16-€17 Netherlands, Italy. £15-£16 UK. $16-$19 US, CA.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cuvée des Sacres Crémant de Limoux Brut 2020 (12.5% abv): Chardonnay, Chenin, Pinot Noir; maturated on lees 30 months, below 12 g/L RS. Toasty and rich aromas countered by very attractive fresh apple and almond notes; rather tasty. €15.50-€17.50 France. €19.50 Netherlands. €24.50 Belgium. 286Kr SE. US: The Hirsch Collection.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">They produce a Pinot Noir as well, which I found a little on the oaky side but others thought it was good.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Coming soon: Languedoc: Malepère.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Other recent Languedoc stuff: <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/07/languedoc-fitou-domaines-du-vent.html" target="_blank">Fitou</a>, <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/08/rose-languedoc-vs-roussillon.html" target="_blank">Rosé</a>, <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/09/languedoc-saint-chinian.html" target="_blank">Saint-Chinian</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-8398956496611445802023-12-04T16:44:00.003+00:002023-12-06T18:04:59.564+00:00Roussillon: the south.<div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/08/rose-languedoc-vs-roussillon.html" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2383" data-original-width="1546" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3EuQf3rlbM0CAYyJKjI82S_3i68nVkElXsDUJmxjRzDKQXtyNHT5o-f-et-6w279Uksfw21e1uTI0phk_xJHBdBZ36pLkFqRZHUrouQA1YPsI-uymbdSG61k94EpQh_BJDPWhCHanwQZjox0eqWeHVH4RX-NNXq3IyBJrMKhwj8kTRzKqQ5b2GDo7OJc/s320/original_58118d4b-54f4-48c8-89fe-921dcff737ae_IMG_20230505_113738-EDIT.jpg" width="208" /></a>The final rant of 2023 about the Roussillon covers my favourites encountered earlier this year from the Côte Vermeille: mainly Collioure white wines (<a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/08/rose-languedoc-vs-roussillon.html" target="_blank"><b>rosé</b> is here</a>), Banyuls Vin Doux Naturel (VDN) sweet fortified wines (including some old vintages), and neighbouring Côtes du Roussillon (white and red) that miss the Collioure appellation (of little importance apart from the price they can charge!).<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine des Deux Puits</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Mas Cristine 2022 Côtes du Roussillon Blanc: 40% Grenache Blanc, 40% Macabeu, 10% Roussanne, 10% Vermentino; barrel fermented and aged for 6 months. Nice mix of zesty characters and fuller fatter fruit flavours, tight fresh finish too. France €13.50. £19-£21 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Mas Cristine 2021 Côtes du Roussillon Rouge: 45% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 20% Carignan; 50-50 tanks and <i>barriques</i> for 12 months. Appealingly juicy and soft with black fruits, fresh and chalky texture, good. €13.50 France. £19-£21 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/DomaineDepradeJorda" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw2SeNCazffvcLhD01WU3SZVBPa7LSDyGu17AZaYfCrCvFrM-O33lNGWim-I4rIewp9J89t3bbq-j6xw2WMlyfpF3TJUzx_PhLz_PeT5_CV5MrLA8TF0yKhsLsx2HfxRsPOzuFE2pfLwtc2esxoCer7nOF9Irrtr9JKrIxFErrwno8DWA7O4_s9SqaB8I/s320/Dep%20Jord.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>Domaine Deprade Jorda</b> Tradition 2022 Côtes du Roussillon Blanc: 60% Grenache Blanc, 40% Macabeu, a few months in tank. Aromatic and juicy with yeast-lees and chalky tones, fresh long finish, good value. €9 France, Belgium. Photo: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/DomaineDepradeJorda" target="_blank">facebook.com/DomaineDepradeJorda</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>L'Etoile</b> Les Toiles Fauves 2022 Collioure Blanc: 70% Grenache Blanc, 30% Grenache Gris, left on the fine lees until bottling. Aromatic citrus and lifted lees notes, juicy and crisp mouthfeel, nice white. €12.55-€17.65 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Piétri-Géraud</b> L'Ecume 2022 Collioure Blanc: 80% Grenache Gris and Blanc, 15% Vermentino, 5% Marsanne; fermented in tank and 400L barrels, aged in barrels for 6 months. Juicy zesty and chalky, zingy intense and lingering, this white should develop in bottle. Quite expensive: €18-€21 France, Belgium. £20 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Tambour</b> Hautes Vignes 2022 Collioure Blanc: 60% Grenache Blanc, 40% Vermentino; transferred to barrel after fermentation for lees stirring before bottling. More honeyed and fatter textured vs zingy finish, good although dear. €19.50 France. 125Kr DK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine La Tour Vieille</b> Les Canadells 2022 Collioure Blanc: 60% Grenache Gris, 30% Grenache Blanc, 10% Roussanne; fermented in vat, regular lees-stirring. Subtle with zingy chalky texture, appealing 'mineral' tones and length, lingering oily mouthfeel vs lively citrus, classy. €17.50-€19.50 France, Netherlands, Germany. £19.75 UK. $33 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoxKamRdAHBd15PSZ_1RSEUiIjLFJphkCrnaBgy0dyzPsYhi0gRy56dgvFoOZv2M9JZD8LgN_sIXfimB-25os5WHOP-GZe6f1VWeMiXpDvO2RJ806RsjNbZa3rQ13ryO02lbobbJepDtYwXjuIDG9nW58GkTfs7QVLtD62857Ha729bs0poJrOHgd6BUo/s1697/Madeloc-tremadoc-med.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="483" data-original-width="1697" height="114" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoxKamRdAHBd15PSZ_1RSEUiIjLFJphkCrnaBgy0dyzPsYhi0gRy56dgvFoOZv2M9JZD8LgN_sIXfimB-25os5WHOP-GZe6f1VWeMiXpDvO2RJ806RsjNbZa3rQ13ryO02lbobbJepDtYwXjuIDG9nW58GkTfs7QVLtD62857Ha729bs0poJrOHgd6BUo/w400-h114/Madeloc-tremadoc-med.png" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Madeloc</b> Tremadoc 2022 Collioure Blanc: 60% Grenache Gris, 20% Vermentino, 20% Roussanne; barrel fermented (no new oak) and left on lees for 9 months. Richer style with more tropical fruit yet still enticingly zesty on the lingering finish. €19-€20 France, Belgium. £20-£23.50 UK. Photo from <a href="https://www.famillepierregaillard.com/" target="_blank">famillepierregaillard.com</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Clos Saint-Sébastien</b> Inspiration Minérale 2021 Collioure Blanc: 90% Grenache Gris, 10% Grenache Blanc; fermented and matured for 1 year in <i>demi-muids</i>. Hints of oak but with lifted aromatics too, nicely textured palate with fresh zesty finish. Expensive though: €28-€34 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Banyuls Vins Doux Naturels</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqBUbOAmpGxPYSa3yKH-N3hh1LmYVkeEdvvm_9fI1FrPzMHXAntUHXkscsKVxYusADj8MJT57Cqj1rSR2Kyo0dt3IlcUAaI7a3-p8dW9rdcaumncYiKsGgLGcPxMisFwKa325Hf_TvFNcDR4S0BnWQ1xXpKpyOcXcNtm41WRd7_VlrXQUzPHMBduBsvoc/s1200/vignes-banyuls-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1200" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqBUbOAmpGxPYSa3yKH-N3hh1LmYVkeEdvvm_9fI1FrPzMHXAntUHXkscsKVxYusADj8MJT57Cqj1rSR2Kyo0dt3IlcUAaI7a3-p8dW9rdcaumncYiKsGgLGcPxMisFwKa325Hf_TvFNcDR4S0BnWQ1xXpKpyOcXcNtm41WRd7_VlrXQUzPHMBduBsvoc/w400-h266/vignes-banyuls-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Terraced vines, Banyuls-sur-Mer: <a href="http://www.vialmagneres.fr/fr/galerie-photos.html" target="_blank">www.vialmagneres.fr</a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>L'Etoile</b> Cuvée Réservée 1997 Banyuls Grand Cru: 75% Grenache, 15% Grenache Gris, 10% Carignan; aged for 24 years in vat (first year) then various barrel sizes and bottle. Wow, addictive toffee and dried cherry aromas / flavours, sweet concentrated and complex, still has a bit of firmness and oomph on the finish too. €48 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Vial-Magnères</b> André Magnères 2009 Banyuls Grand Cru (19% abv, 110 grams/litre residual sugar): 70 year-old Grenache, matured for 10 years in old <i>demi-muid</i> casks then in bottle. Darker colour, much more concentrated with fig and coffee notes among other aromas and flavours, still quite punchy and alive. Delicious. €44 France. €58 Finland. 39 CHF. $145 Aus.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Piétri-Géraud</b> Méditerranée Banyuls 2017 (90 gr/l RS): 90% Grenache (noir and gris), 10% Carignan; matured in <i>barriques</i> not topped up for 4-5 years. Intricate maturing style, some tannin on the palate layered with lovely tasty sweet / savoury fruit; still quite youthful and promising. €24-€26 France, Netherlands.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Maison Chapoutier</b> Banyuls Blanc 1999 (17% abv): Macabeu, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Muscat; matured in full casks and bottle (reductively). Beautiful example of how well 'white' Banyuls (the colour was deep amber-brown) can age and mellow; who did he buy it from?! €38 France. US, UK, Thailand.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.domaine-pietri-geraud.com/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="501" data-original-width="540" height="371" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf7JIMrU-0CZU0It1rHz60Qx7oTEdYSJ5dy9rVB_4lTuPrpBUmsxCaMhyphenhyphenrbWTGpe7pEOB6VLkNLmcYxVfp-3QXqhSTF0-bfdZdCD1pEu6xsN5hDbcN9rS4eU8xT7K7vp93F3E1P5kpqAzTMHEd8Aj_394HWznWKwa131rQWoFiBhNqV0Un-26vrEJTLMw/w400-h371/bm-etiquette.png" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/11/roussillon-north-continued.html" target="_blank">Other recent Roussillon stuff</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-28083629608481809812023-11-27T20:54:00.001+00:002023-12-06T17:57:44.409+00:00Roussillon: the north continued.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhYoaUDQaLTIwSCnEV6BbbIeSVJ2y64_8iIGalJZZgcAAcvkLsiVer_W-FNPfYUvsXKaBSjiRwljEyQC_UEfd2GTRKVc-gCRiD2pvELChlS8d1oOIh5Bu6WCB1VWxZIycaYAyiIDIn1woNr_oEdEzmTo7uWMRnQmLcMYPt0B9h3rQQNrxO-EPzrVPT9g8/s4160/IMG_20230504_161918.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2484" data-original-width="4160" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhYoaUDQaLTIwSCnEV6BbbIeSVJ2y64_8iIGalJZZgcAAcvkLsiVer_W-FNPfYUvsXKaBSjiRwljEyQC_UEfd2GTRKVc-gCRiD2pvELChlS8d1oOIh5Bu6WCB1VWxZIycaYAyiIDIn1woNr_oEdEzmTo7uWMRnQmLcMYPt0B9h3rQQNrxO-EPzrVPT9g8/w400-h239/IMG_20230504_161918.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Overlooking a vineyard, Cases-de-Pène Agly Valley.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Continuing this year's series of tasting and touring articles on the Roussillon, this time we're heading back north to the Agly Valley to supplement a previous piece on the <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/08/roussillon-maury-focus-red-and.html" target="_blank">Maury area</a>, as well as one focused on winemakers in <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/11/roussillon-les-aspres-centre-and-beyond.html" target="_blank">central Roussillon</a> (Les Aspres and either side) and one celebrating the region's <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/08/rose-languedoc-vs-roussillon.html" target="_blank">rosé wines</a> (compared to Languedoc). Meaning there'll be one more report picking favourites from <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/12/roussillon-south.html" target="_blank">the south</a> (Collioure, Banyuls and neighbouring Côtes du Roussillon and Côtes Catalanes wines).<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Côtes Catalanes rouges</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghWg6Bxl5zksfhU38HsxGMgskmgeWenonQusvGwx1b8K2nsHCS4tEthXUhSXuuuz_ljp8Pswj473OYa64D06J5XVAusc4pzG7QLV0VElbYotX2t57szmI1kqjxP126r3xcMgFBFbP57cTPSK9QXHi2eCYo_sF81PLOVBhFL064_XpQ9jTHBUADpx-m_Ao/s2666/original_ed6adc66-289b-494a-90c5-adcaebfd3405_IMG_20230504_113236-EDIT.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1756" data-original-width="2666" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghWg6Bxl5zksfhU38HsxGMgskmgeWenonQusvGwx1b8K2nsHCS4tEthXUhSXuuuz_ljp8Pswj473OYa64D06J5XVAusc4pzG7QLV0VElbYotX2t57szmI1kqjxP126r3xcMgFBFbP57cTPSK9QXHi2eCYo_sF81PLOVBhFL064_XpQ9jTHBUADpx-m_Ao/w320-h211/original_ed6adc66-289b-494a-90c5-adcaebfd3405_IMG_20230504_113236-EDIT.jpg" width="320" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Laurent Batlle</b> 'Villa Cora' 2022: 60% Syrah, 40% Grenache Noir (old vines). Delicious lively juicy fruit with attractive chalky tannins. €9.50 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Mas Janeil</b> 'C2' 2022: 90% Syrah and 10% Viognier fermented together, lees-stirring and 'quick ageing' in ceramic vats. Wild herbs and spice on the nose, lots of pure tasty fruit. €16.20 France. 220Kr Norway. Also: UK and Canada.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Mas Crémat</b> 'Les Sales Gosses' 2022: 100% Mourvèdre, no added sulphites, stored in tank. Also has nice pure spicy fruit with a bit of <i>garrigue</i>, easy-going and good value. €9.50 France, €10.70 Germany.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFM3VS_99DPE_4hyf9TL2b4MRUmNEoNaFi0QpBwTbqY7q7naIqbM57_wb3o7wFTfwjRY3YZ-Q-KM9d9gBnAtVDwK-1gSQyMlXbeoYEKwtDiCSteS_OFE7ETc9MosJsM7htzi58h_9Vwf1dlIGAr5Z_2XzkRyZwiYlBs3eJO_ikUMPC5KrWvB3KNmYoKqY/s3115/original_3ff0d202-4bfd-4f00-8caa-5abf34f227e3_IMG_20230504_113339.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3115" data-original-width="2133" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFM3VS_99DPE_4hyf9TL2b4MRUmNEoNaFi0QpBwTbqY7q7naIqbM57_wb3o7wFTfwjRY3YZ-Q-KM9d9gBnAtVDwK-1gSQyMlXbeoYEKwtDiCSteS_OFE7ETc9MosJsM7htzi58h_9Vwf1dlIGAr5Z_2XzkRyZwiYlBs3eJO_ikUMPC5KrWvB3KNmYoKqY/w219-h320/original_3ff0d202-4bfd-4f00-8caa-5abf34f227e3_IMG_20230504_113339.jpg" width="219" /></a></div>Le Soula</b> Rouge 2015: 53% Carignan (average vine age 69 years), 37% Syrah (23 years), 10% Grenache (37 years) planted at 350m to 600m altitude; whole bunch maceration using indigenous yeasts, matured for at least 22 months. Powerful wild rustic nose, very intense, concentrated and long though. This eccentric red has often divided audiences, but they have a bit of a cult following. €35 France. £35-£40 UK. $54-$64 CA, $46-48 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Serre Romani</b> La Vallée de L'Aigle Rouge 2021: 95% Syrah, 5% Carignan; 50% aged in used casks for 7 months. Nice vibrant fruit, spice and wild herb notes nuanced with oak, firm but well-textured tannins. €15 France and Belgium, €17 Germany.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Boudau</b> 'Le Petit Closi' Rouge 2022: Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault. Pleasingly fruity and gluggable with a bit of bite. €8.50 France. £13 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Côtes du Roussillon Villages</b> including Latour-de-France, Caramany and Tautavel.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Depeyre</b> 'Tradition' 2021: Syrah 50%, Carignan 25%, Grenache 25%. Lovely pure fruit with wild herbs and spice, a touch of grip to finish, very nice red for the price. €12.50 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">'Sainte-Colombe' 2021: Grenache 30%, Syrah 30%, Carignan 30%, Mourvèdre 10%. Hints of oak on the nose and palate but it's well textured, tight mouthfeel with chalky tannins, needing more time to come out. €18 France.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK2-6JRtjnS1sidQXpRzESd3dcTQ8yrItQkeYT7Cl3_8tkJrF4f-ss7o-5DAydoXX8Tr73UXkHWw5n_Hl25Cxk7EakoM4BG8uGDSR3-jCPni64j2TV5B_aFoLaBOkeo_-Iwjx0UTkQqj1FN-gm6bFnq01M8kJp03xmW31Qb77Up8wjOL5o5As1nPj-wHo/s3945/original_94da8a8c-5dc2-4586-be89-31a8294d4f9c_IMG_20230504_141506.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3945" data-original-width="2949" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK2-6JRtjnS1sidQXpRzESd3dcTQ8yrItQkeYT7Cl3_8tkJrF4f-ss7o-5DAydoXX8Tr73UXkHWw5n_Hl25Cxk7EakoM4BG8uGDSR3-jCPni64j2TV5B_aFoLaBOkeo_-Iwjx0UTkQqj1FN-gm6bFnq01M8kJp03xmW31Qb77Up8wjOL5o5As1nPj-wHo/s320/original_94da8a8c-5dc2-4586-be89-31a8294d4f9c_IMG_20230504_141506.jpg" width="239" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Serre Romani</b> 'Né Sous la Bonne Etoile' 2018: Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, 18 months in barrel. Again some smoky oak notes but this was pretty rich and nicely textured with chunky tannins vs deep fruit to finish. A foodie red for sure. Quite pricey but they only make 1200 bottles of this label: €35 France. Owner / winemaker Laurent Pratx.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château de L'Ou</b> 'Compartir' 2020 (15% abv): Grenache, Syrah, Carignan. This lovely red got a bit lost as the producer is based at their main property in Montescot in the east, where most of their vineyards are located, but they also own vines in the Maury area where this is sourced from. Nice big mouthful of fruit, chunky firm and concentrated mouthfeel with supple tannins. Also quite dear: €35 France. £36-£42 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq_gVJMjlBasNPLzD9R7UCXeURkjyxtq9a2MfET8XU_q5KOmzPLwkSxY5Ec2A0Jy4dsoHtxi9uk3aY0i2AgFrmNMsqMegZCcE06LZpC6iEXgRts-EBpSpGbzDlGxQnJeE7DLtdMv6DqF8KUuP4NvhqButknsa45B1vaIqf_jFoNty7zDKmeAGx_WxhK5U/s579/Cast%20Vell.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="579" data-original-width="161" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq_gVJMjlBasNPLzD9R7UCXeURkjyxtq9a2MfET8XU_q5KOmzPLwkSxY5Ec2A0Jy4dsoHtxi9uk3aY0i2AgFrmNMsqMegZCcE06LZpC6iEXgRts-EBpSpGbzDlGxQnJeE7DLtdMv6DqF8KUuP4NvhqButknsa45B1vaIqf_jFoNty7zDKmeAGx_WxhK5U/w111-h400/Cast%20Vell.jpg" width="111" /></a></div>Domaine Singla</b> 'Castell Vell' 2019: Single site 80% Syrah, 20% Carignan; 15 months in cask, 1/3 new. Concentrated and textured with nice maturing meaty fruit flavours. €20 France. 800Kč CZ. Kr230 DK. CHF 46.00 (gift-boxed). €17.50 Germany. $27-$30 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Dom Brial</b> 'Crest Petit' 2017: Syrah 80%, Grenache 20%, 15 months in new barrels. This co-op winery's top selection red, it's fairly oak textured to start but has good substance with dense structured palate. I've tried older vintages of this and it does age. €26 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine des Schistes</b> 'Essencial' Rouge 2021: Lladoner Pelut, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, aged in concrete vats. Aromatic with fresh fruit characters and attractive chalky tannins with just a touch of bite. €12 France. £15 UK. $16-$20 US. $30 CA. 60zł PL.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Boudau</b> 'Patrimoine' 2020: 80% 'oldest' Grenache from a block called Clos del Pila with 20% Syrah, eight months on the lees in tanks. Quite solid and dense still but with tasty ripe berry/cherry fruit and good depth. €23 France. £23 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Chapoutier Domaine de Bila-Haut</b> 'Occultum Lapidem' Latour de France 2019: Syrah, Grenache, Carignan; about 50-50 cask and tank ageing. Floral wild herby Syrah notes dominate the nose, aromatic and quite elegant yet with a bit of firmness on the palate too. €15 France. £17-£20 UK. USA. $22 Iraq. $35 Aus.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi77hoi8hL8K9h5ow5XdZZsaJpn5shXYHfVWn0bXeFPjqRAqlol48chX7v4uacKsOgWaM9LfTIblFjAmWW48r9y41xzP6SNhZJd6soF6S0PJGFrc9LrIN8HYQz7Nm1HwXyP-wKlhUtZh0vwsmjmzsFWG1ddVHnIBWI1t6cgTWnN-bvdet9wI2O68PWc4zw/s2334/original_16ed984c-b013-4dae-a39a-efc1c400f349_IMG_20230504_104617.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2334" data-original-width="1490" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi77hoi8hL8K9h5ow5XdZZsaJpn5shXYHfVWn0bXeFPjqRAqlol48chX7v4uacKsOgWaM9LfTIblFjAmWW48r9y41xzP6SNhZJd6soF6S0PJGFrc9LrIN8HYQz7Nm1HwXyP-wKlhUtZh0vwsmjmzsFWG1ddVHnIBWI1t6cgTWnN-bvdet9wI2O68PWc4zw/s320/original_16ed984c-b013-4dae-a39a-efc1c400f349_IMG_20230504_104617.jpg" width="204" /></a></div>Bruno Andreu</b> 'BA' Caramany 2020: 51% Syrah, 43% Carignan, 6% Grenache, barrel aged. Gorgeous aromatic peppery nose with herb and pine tones, good fruit vs textured tannins. €18-€20 Netherlands, Belgium, Germany. Kr345 DK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Modat</b> 'Comme Avant' Caramany 2018: 60% Carignan (100 years old), 25% Syrah, 15% Grenache (400m altitude); 18 months in concrete vats and old casks (30%), not filtered. Rustic and savoury on the nose while rich and rounded on the palate, fairly firm still but the tannins are well done. €19 France, Germany. £21-£27 UK. $30 US. $49 Aus. Kr180 DK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine de L'Edre</b> 'Carrément Rouge' Tautavel 2021 (14.5% abv): 50% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 20% Carignan, 5% Mourvèdre. Lots of delicious black cherry fruit, fresh and soft with attractive chalky tannins. €16.50 France. US (Handpicked Selections, Grapex, Wine.com). Also: UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine des Schistes</b> 'Caune d'en Joffre' Tautavel 2021: One plot of mostly old-vine (1950) field-grafted Carignan with Grenache and Syrah (220m altitude), 50% whole-bunch fermented. Pure tasty cherry and berry fruit, soft tannins making it easy going yet it's subtle and moreish. €18-€19 France, Germany, Belgium, Spain. DKK 130. £20 UK. $40 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjvJe3FNa0EzKijlB3HbXzdZ-9RHZLH-KuL1-yLKNciepTm-BE38J5vsfe2CF_jYI5P2YXYEMcTZG6fryUkwRaMgWsUJqrkd-MMoHcTBUi_iU02JIQEVr5WF4Voi0Wuf_DEgxGFnfPa-LXGsz5F4h95pvBEj54K22kNOBaPu_REbm6mHgj5DVCAoE2ayg/s3778/original_4113493d-2fa3-4217-a3a5-cfe03a24a1c2_IMG_20230504_104807.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2914" data-original-width="3778" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjvJe3FNa0EzKijlB3HbXzdZ-9RHZLH-KuL1-yLKNciepTm-BE38J5vsfe2CF_jYI5P2YXYEMcTZG6fryUkwRaMgWsUJqrkd-MMoHcTBUi_iU02JIQEVr5WF4Voi0Wuf_DEgxGFnfPa-LXGsz5F4h95pvBEj54K22kNOBaPu_REbm6mHgj5DVCAoE2ayg/s320/original_4113493d-2fa3-4217-a3a5-cfe03a24a1c2_IMG_20230504_104807.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Domaine Fontanel</b> 'Cistes' Tautavel 2020: 50% Grenache, 50% Syrah, aged in used barrels. Concentrated black cherry and spice, taut tannins but nicely textured, powerful finish. Good stuff. €16-€18 France, Netherlands. £20-£22 UK. Canada.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Mas de la Devèze</b> Tautavel 2019: 50% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre; half of the blend aged for a year in 600 / 400 litre barrels (20% new oak). Perfumed wild and peppery, firm and concentrated but not too grippy, wow. €16 France, Belgium, Netherlands. CHF 20 Switzerland.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijBW1CwztbLjPNRYXcdh3X-9ijrhzl3MIzgCSCadUgDgLHFmKvfpbLZH1g5kYbkDyxdYEFpDUmCUwrOS3Q9lyzvvOD6SrH5DJY-vfP6CyjsfpzNcnlaKTJSkEQSGJtHP7crdN12oWMvj7P8EGEbj7mNLdQZk8k44iGRcT18Wga-bojM1pZQ0osca_70lg/s2927/original_71135166-2736-429c-8ba6-ec53c18c7e40_IMG_20230504_104915.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2927" data-original-width="2157" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijBW1CwztbLjPNRYXcdh3X-9ijrhzl3MIzgCSCadUgDgLHFmKvfpbLZH1g5kYbkDyxdYEFpDUmCUwrOS3Q9lyzvvOD6SrH5DJY-vfP6CyjsfpzNcnlaKTJSkEQSGJtHP7crdN12oWMvj7P8EGEbj7mNLdQZk8k44iGRcT18Wga-bojM1pZQ0osca_70lg/s320/original_71135166-2736-429c-8ba6-ec53c18c7e40_IMG_20230504_104915.jpg" width="236" /></a></div>Domaine des Chênes</b> 'La Carissa' Tautavel 2016: 40% Grenache ('very old vines'), 40% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Carignan ('old'), barrel aged for 12 months. Complex savoury nose, still has a bit of firm structure rounded out nicely by lingering mature fruit. €19-€22 France, Germany, Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Côtes Catalanes & Côtes du Roussillon blancs</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Fontanel</b> 'Amae' 2022: Mixed plot dating from 1908, 50-50 Grenache Blanc and Roussanne (the latter part barrel-fermented). Just a touch of oak, yeast-leesy and richly textured vs aromatic fruit and zingy finish. Should develop well. €15-€16 France. Also: UK, CA.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Serre Romani</b> La Vallée de L'Aigle Blanc 2021: 80% Grenache Blanc, 20% Macabeu, barrel fermented and left on the lees. A hint of oak is countered by nice fresh 'mineral' touches and a crisp finish. €13 France. €16 Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Depeyre</b> 'Symphonie' 2022: 50-50 Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, '80+ years old' from a site in Vingrau. Aromatic pear fruit, attractive juicy palate with 'mineral' finish. €18 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château Les Pins</b> (Dom Brial) Blanc 2022: 50% Grenache Blanc, 50% Roussanne, new <i>barriques</i> for 4 months. Hints of oak lead on to a rounded honeyed palate with balancing crisp bite. €15.90 France. €17.50-€18.50 Belgium, Netherlands. CA$23.20.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivFmMJv65uOHRB0vgLoLURaLbdSPbMBlBz0roIfdNw8NZI1zDDhwZ78OrSoReO4PVTzYl5kLh6E_0kwC5zGawC6C_QTIqUynCXHXXP2zFBbkyprrI5VpQ-tVj11RPhcup3S-AYbJYOvj57aHzL7FA77ExArPrdMv6i3k6B0YDVOqjJ3BqUl7XaQLmMXAs/s3354/original_2045b12c-84dd-4ead-ac2a-555cb2032416_IMG_20230504_141438.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2672" data-original-width="3354" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivFmMJv65uOHRB0vgLoLURaLbdSPbMBlBz0roIfdNw8NZI1zDDhwZ78OrSoReO4PVTzYl5kLh6E_0kwC5zGawC6C_QTIqUynCXHXXP2zFBbkyprrI5VpQ-tVj11RPhcup3S-AYbJYOvj57aHzL7FA77ExArPrdMv6i3k6B0YDVOqjJ3BqUl7XaQLmMXAs/w320-h255/original_2045b12c-84dd-4ead-ac2a-555cb2032416_IMG_20230504_141438.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Boudau</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Malvoisie 'Pure Souche' 2022: 100% Malvoisie du Roussillon replanted in 2010, lees-stirring in tank. Complex nose and palate, juicy and zesty while quite rich, yeast-lees notes adding finesse and length, delicious. €26 France, Austria.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Henri Boudau Blanc 2022: 80% Grenache Blanc, 20% Macabeu, barrel fermented and aged for 4 months with lees-stirring. Intense and crisp and aromatic with creamy yeast-lees tones, another lovely white. €14 France, Germany. €17.50 Belgium. £18 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine des Schistes</b> 'Algo': Described as 'Haut de la Solera de Rancio Sec' and made from a 60 year-old plot (Las Creus) of very ripe Grenache Blanc also planted with some Macabeu. Aged in cask oxidatively (not topped up) by 'solera' method, Algo is 'taken from the first barrels receiving the youngest wines.' Oxidised orangey colour and nose, fresh and intense mouthfeel vs textured and nutty with long tangy finish. Out there but very good. €20-€24 France, Germany. £28 UK. $36 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Photo from <a href="https://domainedesschistes.com/en/" target="_blank">domainedesschistes.com</a>:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1KvnUm_TBCS1EIcPQ6xkaZpTWWrxi8LuZ3r8Zm0OJYOUXkkE-vSjeb048KyiWJUDHqkq1q12mDp14g50z6aPH65EpiyCmJa5pcpUA-SfMzxNUXP0Pj38pWYZyymyD9GcaaMD_VcpH8OMlRDyeN1_vpUeMIL70x0QT9Qzrh5L2rsnOj-pfXq8Km9W5H-g/s960/schistes-10.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1KvnUm_TBCS1EIcPQ6xkaZpTWWrxi8LuZ3r8Zm0OJYOUXkkE-vSjeb048KyiWJUDHqkq1q12mDp14g50z6aPH65EpiyCmJa5pcpUA-SfMzxNUXP0Pj38pWYZyymyD9GcaaMD_VcpH8OMlRDyeN1_vpUeMIL70x0QT9Qzrh5L2rsnOj-pfXq8Km9W5H-g/s320/schistes-10.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Vins Doux Naturels (VDN)</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine des Schistes</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Rivesaltes Ambré 'Solera': 40+ year-old Grenache Gris with some Macabeu picked very ripe, fortified 'on the must'. Aged for 3 years in concrete vats then even longer in old tuns and <i>demi-muid</i> casks, none of which is topped up to promote oxidation. The first wine was added in 1985, and they only take out 20-30% from the casks each time when bottling to retain a good amount of old wines as a base. Each level of containers is filled up from the one above with wines of younger average age, so the oldest are found closest to the ground hence <i>solera </i>(Spanish). Delicious Oloroso style wine, not too sweet with rounded cask-aged texture and lots of tangy baked walnut flavours among others. Yum. €24 France. £28 UK. €28-€30 Germany, Netherlands.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">'Joia' Muscat de Rivesaltes 2021: A trendy take on VDN Muscat sees <i>Petits Grains</i> Muscat macerated on the skins for at least a week followed by wild ferment for 10 days before being fortified, with the macerating grapes or after pressing depending on vintage, then storage in old 600L casks. Very different colour and beautiful orange zest nose, appealing bit of texture to the rich fruit and sweetness, very good. US: Volio Imports. €15-€18 France, Belgium, Germany. £16 UK. 125 DKK.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi95pxZC6DdsNXjnENKvf7cgyXHiS9jgaydzNZTv_tu9h8Eq4QeQpmISS2tgZAj2GNE8ZA5IAckOKpDLFy503ta1XJEYOiw_f1HprNCf_Xl3fN-qQauXWkGSPz2krQk3mnAIwLnoV91gf0eQJHjOLTLkkfPwiSYgQmRbxFmAFkSXoTJvcO6yaO-Lkzh3lM/s4160/original_30588353-10bd-4a72-a833-732fd4f701e1_IMG_20230505_202250.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi95pxZC6DdsNXjnENKvf7cgyXHiS9jgaydzNZTv_tu9h8Eq4QeQpmISS2tgZAj2GNE8ZA5IAckOKpDLFy503ta1XJEYOiw_f1HprNCf_Xl3fN-qQauXWkGSPz2krQk3mnAIwLnoV91gf0eQJHjOLTLkkfPwiSYgQmRbxFmAFkSXoTJvcO6yaO-Lkzh3lM/s320/original_30588353-10bd-4a72-a833-732fd4f701e1_IMG_20230505_202250.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The 'Joia' Muscat and the extraordinary 1993 from Château Les Pins (below) were matched with the entrée, pan-fried duck foie gras, as part of a very special menu created by chef Franck Séguret at the well-known restaurant Le Clos des Lys on the outskirts of Perpignan (photo above).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Arnaud de Villeneuve</b> 'Grande Reserve' Rivesaltes Ambré 20 Ans d'Age: old vine Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Macabeu. Long ageing partly in concrete vats then old tuns and <i>barriques</i>, final blend with the youngest wine constituent 20 years old. Very tangy and intense with rich roast hazelnut notes, good bite and very long finish. Classy and a bargain, at home at least: €21 France. $44 CA. 325 DKK. 100Zl PL.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Vignerons Catalans</b> 'Haute Coutume' Rivesaltes Ambré 1966: Grenache Blanc & Grenache Gris, aged in vats and large tuns until bottling. Almost brown rather than amber, this was super rich and intense with lots of oxidised nutty characters. A treat for sure but probably not going to improve - the 20 year old above shows as a better wine overall. €90-€100 France, Belgium, Netherlands. 500 Lei RO. 630 Kr DK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivx7iD6FhJjJ1A0ArZ6KXr_5y0fHh6d2YrEHS3TOpHeck9Va0x2e-FmwHZre9ccmTik2mPTZ_8JWZM4_opvVIcEKbY0jhS9lfwFjR21rmfwpZMvBAnN9ci0G5VzJcJCt6m0vBdss8SzxUDztvPeCSBrOyBWSYCjptl_ZwqLU93BX1E372WSSjAb_3NkgU/s4160/original_fe013816-9cd6-48c6-bb20-d0fb79a3fb78_IMG_20230504_152842.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="1920" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivx7iD6FhJjJ1A0ArZ6KXr_5y0fHh6d2YrEHS3TOpHeck9Va0x2e-FmwHZre9ccmTik2mPTZ_8JWZM4_opvVIcEKbY0jhS9lfwFjR21rmfwpZMvBAnN9ci0G5VzJcJCt6m0vBdss8SzxUDztvPeCSBrOyBWSYCjptl_ZwqLU93BX1E372WSSjAb_3NkgU/s320/original_fe013816-9cd6-48c6-bb20-d0fb79a3fb78_IMG_20230504_152842.jpg" width="148" /></a></div>Château Les Pins</b> Muscat de Rivesaltes 1998 and 1993: A quirky speciality style produced in the regular MdeR way to start then left in tank for 4-6 months and bottled. So, all the ageing character comes from very slow bottle maturation. The 93 was very dark coloured indeed, like liquid marmalade and quince, unbelievable; tastes like nothing else you've tried. Also paired with foie gras as mentioned above. The 98 was a little fresher even and brilliantly balanced, great match for strong melted camembert.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">And as ever, there's plenty more to discover about the Roussillon if you <b><a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2021/11/roussillon-french-catalonia-wine-book.html" target="_blank">buy my book</a></b>!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-55466631628562508432023-11-17T18:12:00.003+00:002023-12-06T17:56:04.726+00:00Roussillon: Les Aspres, the centre and beyond.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRZcOGtO-6lHyVD9jXcFvJWoOp291eLSaY76jZ1-VkktvFUOBHIhhD1Sjbxihh5ZBfMigduw9Aj35_k7zhABCiX0t-ttYTc6QfTGs3vzliTXuTV7b64UsYKLO_Q7tSN8CZbrm9kGDLfIl8YVxOSBSCfCCQZRK_kXvi9SwHtV_mRwAsqEPM0ZDShDvsMzg/s2304/Aspres%201.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1333" data-original-width="2304" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRZcOGtO-6lHyVD9jXcFvJWoOp291eLSaY76jZ1-VkktvFUOBHIhhD1Sjbxihh5ZBfMigduw9Aj35_k7zhABCiX0t-ttYTc6QfTGs3vzliTXuTV7b64UsYKLO_Q7tSN8CZbrm9kGDLfIl8YVxOSBSCfCCQZRK_kXvi9SwHtV_mRwAsqEPM0ZDShDvsMzg/w400-h231/Aspres%201.JPG" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Vineyard near Terrats in Les Aspres, central Roussillon.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Côtes du Roussillon Villages and Les Aspres, Côtes du Roussillon, Côtes Catalanes and Rivesaltes VDNs.</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Talking of the Aspres and neighbouring areas in central and eastern Roussillon, barrels full of heartfelt empathy go out to those winegrowers who had the very bad luck of being hit by a freak storm just before some remaining black grapes were due to be picked this vintage. One night of terrible wind and rain after months of drought with virtually no rainfall, which had already made things difficult and reduced the crop.<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">However, the fruit that did make it to the winery in one piece was generally of very good quality although considerably less of it than 'usual' (there's nothing much usual anymore from one vintage to the next). Must have been soul-destroying for those affected to lose near-ripe grapes after so much hard work throughout the challenging growing season.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">You could do worse and buy their wines to help! Here are 33 recommendations starting with...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>RED WINES</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Clos Cérianne</b> Secret Partagé 2020 Côtes du Roussillon: 80% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, 10% Grenache. Well-textured red with chunky tannins and smoky fruit, concentrated too. €24 France, Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaines Paul Mas</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Château Lauriga Le Cadet 2021 Côtes du Roussillon (13.5% abv): 70% Syrah, 20% Carignan, 10% Grenache (no oak). Attractive and aromatic Syrah-led style with vibrant spicy black cherry fruit and soft tannins. €9-€12 France, Netherlands, Italy. Also: UK, Japan, USA.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Château Lauriga Cuvée Jean Grande Réserve 2020 Côtes du Roussillon: 60% Syrah, 30% Carignan, 10% Grenache; 12 months in oak. More structured and textured with firmer mouthfeel and similarly tasty fruit. €13-€16 France, Belgium, Netherlands, $38 Canada & US, £18-£23 UK, Poland 99 zł.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEc-TbSD_eUs8LP9zQbkddSznJhWGlW13AOCcAsnYZ259FPQrNsQz7Rrzc0WM6Kg-7YgyBtBLLDya6L1kCgPG6LMgNCNHASYxB47y4wRkypuOrWHFiG5j98MY-h8NmiywrASbgz_QrDArJXpgZHDP9mtNcblx-lS5jVtZRnz1zlyuOxASJq6PPjNW5sjg/s3120/original_b081bfc3-86d0-4f96-bcb9-512b1148f6f6_IMG_20230505_104519.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="2855" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEc-TbSD_eUs8LP9zQbkddSznJhWGlW13AOCcAsnYZ259FPQrNsQz7Rrzc0WM6Kg-7YgyBtBLLDya6L1kCgPG6LMgNCNHASYxB47y4wRkypuOrWHFiG5j98MY-h8NmiywrASbgz_QrDArJXpgZHDP9mtNcblx-lS5jVtZRnz1zlyuOxASJq6PPjNW5sjg/w366-h400/original_b081bfc3-86d0-4f96-bcb9-512b1148f6f6_IMG_20230505_104519.jpg" width="366" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Château Castelnou</b> Cuvée Héritage 2021 Côtes du Roussillon: 55% Syrah, 45% Carignan. Lots of lovely gluggable fruit. €12 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine La Casenove</b> La Colomina 2019 Côtes du Roussillon, Etienne and Frédérique Montès: 45% Carignan, 45% Syrah, 10% Grenache (no oak). Juicy blueberry and cherry fruit with chalky lightly grippy tannins, good value. €10 France & Germany, 135Kr Denmark, USA.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Treloar</b> Motus 2019 Côtes du Roussillon: 65% Mourvèdre (barrel aged), 30% Syrah, 5% Grenache. Wild edged and savoury nose, concentrated with quite firm yet well-textured tannins, long tasty finish. Very good. €15-€16 France & Belgium, €17-€20 Germany & Austria; £17-£19 UK, Poland, US: Vintage 59.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheMV9JFyf_cy14kL1c4lnPMfEYjOZIB7DM7AX8wv0ov2831G71Mj7LZ8K4JI5wLnLok5Zv-c_fxAgvL-zQ4n7HY46Kn0yIkJCP2Q8WCpy3CSIHLOqO0TqlcKOsW2NOgjJKXO32fGAF6V0z-1GVnWcNQLfeGX914y3ig03uPhG2mip8qVJS0Gg6RU4gKbw/s3803/original_d11d28e5-6664-43da-94fb-3bdbb56265fc_IMG_20230505_101437.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2630" data-original-width="3803" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheMV9JFyf_cy14kL1c4lnPMfEYjOZIB7DM7AX8wv0ov2831G71Mj7LZ8K4JI5wLnLok5Zv-c_fxAgvL-zQ4n7HY46Kn0yIkJCP2Q8WCpy3CSIHLOqO0TqlcKOsW2NOgjJKXO32fGAF6V0z-1GVnWcNQLfeGX914y3ig03uPhG2mip8qVJS0Gg6RU4gKbw/w400-h276/original_d11d28e5-6664-43da-94fb-3bdbb56265fc_IMG_20230505_101437.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Trilles</b> Pedra Lluna 2019 Côtes du Roussillon: 90% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah aged in 500 litre barrels. Aromatic ripe dark cherry fruit with appealing spicy and savoury notes, structured yet maturing palate. Also rather nice. €16.20 France. £22 UK. SEK265 Sweden.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine 3 Orris</b> Horizon 2018 Côtes du Roussillon: 50% Carignan, 25% Grenache, 25% Syrah, cask aged. Hints of oak and tannin in the background, but it's developed very nicely with savoury fruit flavours. €17-€18 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine F. Jaubert</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Carmín 2019 Côtes du Roussillon (14.5% abv): Mostly Carignan with Grenache and Syrah, no oak. Very nice aromatic yet mature fruit with a touch of freshness to finish. €12 France.</div><div><div style="text-align: justify;">Hexaplex Trunculus 2018 Côtes du Roussillon (15% abv): 40% Grenache Noir, 40% Syrah, 20% Carignan; 20 months in cask. Maturing rustic edges, attractive softening tannins with good length and lingering meaty flavours. Tasty. €20 France. Francois Jaubert in the field:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMScKap2uagXx8VwnfotSqchAqrlVyraCmBlLGXp2OAHCo46C5aBm4Xp_yYVuvAsnELatmBbbvjrvChi_JSEjvDnOCLY0Ng_iyMSyhvPKeVUuJlK0Pd6crmSmUYm0M1E0m8p7UBY_QnFilY6k-yVFCzuw2WmZKfCkNoqVO59vnmjgF3vn4Pm3r3Rqx4M0/s3172/original_1d8d688e-8f89-4770-97a9-28e74baa74d8_IMG_20230505_134343.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3172" data-original-width="2163" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMScKap2uagXx8VwnfotSqchAqrlVyraCmBlLGXp2OAHCo46C5aBm4Xp_yYVuvAsnELatmBbbvjrvChi_JSEjvDnOCLY0Ng_iyMSyhvPKeVUuJlK0Pd6crmSmUYm0M1E0m8p7UBY_QnFilY6k-yVFCzuw2WmZKfCkNoqVO59vnmjgF3vn4Pm3r3Rqx4M0/w273-h400/original_1d8d688e-8f89-4770-97a9-28e74baa74d8_IMG_20230505_134343.jpg" width="273" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Treloar</b> Three Peaks 2018 Côtes du Roussillon Villages (14% abv): Syrah 65%, Grenache 30%, Mourvèdre 5%; 20% of the blend aged in barrels for 12 months. €12-€13.50 France, Germany, Netherlands and Belgium; £14-£15 UK, 65zł Poland, USA: Vintage59, $32-$33 CA/NZ. Mature and savoury with a touch of tannin, lingering meaty fruit and length. Good although I slightly preferred the Motus above.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Vaquer</b> Cuvée 30 Ans 2020 Côtes du Roussillon Villages Les Aspres: 55% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 5% Carignan; aged in tank and <i>barriques</i> for 20 months. Rich and smoky with savoury edges and a touch of oak, concentrated and solid with quite firm tannins, balanced and subtle though needing a few more years to develop. €30 France, Germany, Belgium; US importer: Kermit Lynch?</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Jonquères d'Oriola Vignobles</b> Château de Corneilla Cavalcade 2019 Côtes du Roussillon Villages Les Aspres (14% abv): 50% Syrah, 25% Grenache Noir, 25% Mourvèdre; matured in 500L French oak for 12 months. Enticing ripe fruit, still fairly structured mouthfeel but rounder tannins than most of the 2019s. Another good one. €16 France. £13.50-£15.50 UK. €19.95 Ireland. €17.95 Germany. $40-$45 US / CA. 160-180 DK.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAYfxc9EtTGPiWBoZl-jFriM56UnIQDYRo_SRbdMQn6S51ymOsplznuksmiv6AX5nvaHmzrOwIjkrmDqaeLhKItougyuDF8MGQSyJIBid1-SPPCyYiuoaTklE7RGfUnxv8vOynx1CMU3-Dg6rXVRuY4I_PEYBPHwlRShKDeUwRnIHX_b57JchYxXdYfo4/s4090/original_01fb5f18-8899-44bc-a7c3-66cc98872d8a_IMG_20230505_103811.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2797" data-original-width="4090" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAYfxc9EtTGPiWBoZl-jFriM56UnIQDYRo_SRbdMQn6S51ymOsplznuksmiv6AX5nvaHmzrOwIjkrmDqaeLhKItougyuDF8MGQSyJIBid1-SPPCyYiuoaTklE7RGfUnxv8vOynx1CMU3-Dg6rXVRuY4I_PEYBPHwlRShKDeUwRnIHX_b57JchYxXdYfo4/w400-h274/original_01fb5f18-8899-44bc-a7c3-66cc98872d8a_IMG_20230505_103811.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Vignobles Terrassous</b> Summum 2017 Côtes du Roussillon Villages Les Aspres (15% abv): 35% Syrah, 25% Grenache Noir, 30% Mourvèdre, 10% Carignan; 18 months in barrels. Complex minty and wilder notes, savoury maturing palate and flavours, still firm but nicely textured. Good stuff. €27.75 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Vignobles Terrassous</b> Les Pierres Plates 2020 Côtes du Roussillon Villages Les Aspres (14.5% abv): Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre. Hints of oak (aged in mostly used barrels) but has pleasing texture and good depth of fruit; tasty red. €11.33 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château Planères</b> Prestige 2019 Côtes du Roussillon Villages Les Aspres (14% abv): Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah. Firm and structured but with plenty of fruit, good tannins for the sometimes austere 2019s. €13-€15 France, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Charles Perez</b> Patterns 2020 Côtes du Roussillon Villages Les Aspres (15% abv): 80% Grenache Noir, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre; lees-stirring and 12 months in new <i>barriques</i>. Less oaky than some of his other dear reds with tasty Grenache fruit underneath. France €66 per bottle? (Surely not.)</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Maison Albera</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Altitude 529m Le Pelut 2021 Côtes Catalanes (13.5% abv): 100% Lledoner Pelut, an old Roussillon variety related to Grenache. Lightly wild edged, intense blue fruits yet subtle at the same time, surprisingly fresh acidity but it works in this unusual red. France €10.80.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Altitude 525m Carignan Noir 2020 Côtes Catalanes (14% abv): Late picked from 'very old vines'. Also surprising for its elegant palate and texture, despite having some weight too, and enticing fragrant red/blue fruits.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>WHITE WINES</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0pX2j1CigIlgFlqXqC5Y4p0EvIfMsUBMm6mPoFNC5U7vkbhPFDLpZ58yTj9AV7Y3E5j1R7EZDPW5oSoojzMYD8a7lYmvyupqXvkH65xNlvSahzx_LsmGir0hNbBN_687kTYPxiO2vHpfV06RGP7AW_73OQXukcW_JzDUmRx5rrUn9Pa9pMlBhcIbftGU/s2870/original_c0ace4d9-846f-47a2-bc88-d334715e8c9c_IMG_20230505_134407.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2718" data-original-width="2870" height="379" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0pX2j1CigIlgFlqXqC5Y4p0EvIfMsUBMm6mPoFNC5U7vkbhPFDLpZ58yTj9AV7Y3E5j1R7EZDPW5oSoojzMYD8a7lYmvyupqXvkH65xNlvSahzx_LsmGir0hNbBN_687kTYPxiO2vHpfV06RGP7AW_73OQXukcW_JzDUmRx5rrUn9Pa9pMlBhcIbftGU/w400-h379/original_c0ace4d9-846f-47a2-bc88-d334715e8c9c_IMG_20230505_134407.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><b><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div>Domaine F. Jaubert</b> Orus 2019 Côtes du Roussillon (14% abv): Grenache blanc and Grenache gris. Nutty yeast-lees richness while surprisingly tight and fresh on the finish. €12 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Clos Cérianne</b> Anfora 2021 Côtes Catalanes (14.5% abv): 80% Carignan Blanc, 20% Grenache Blanc, fermented / matured in ceramic amphorae. Elegant dry white with zesty mineral tones and nutty edges. €18 France. Winemaker Laurianne Tournier above.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Trilles</b> Les Calçades 2022 Côtes Catalanes: 60% Rolle, 40% Roussanne, aged in barrel and tank. Nutty and intense dry white, wow. €15.40 France. US importer: Direct Wine Imports.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Jonquères d'Oriola Vignobles</b> Château de Corneilla Cavalcade 2022 Côtes du Roussillon: 60% Grenache Blanc, 20% Macabeu, 20% Vermentino, six months' ageing on lees in 500L casks. Successful combo of light coconut oak, aromatic and yeasty notes, quite rich fruit and fresh-ish finish; well-made white as always. €13-€15 France, Belgium, Germany, Netherlands. £12 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs37uKur7ytWs9BK7CCaGeMzL41tdVT47XYOwBlbZgu9n9K8l_8abpACNU14Ba963SGrh-04IW2QCGgtUticjoyZEXmHw1R4QtelS9eHsU67ZmJeL9U-0OawZOvxqGC8ru-BxF7Q7r1D9s0BIJEI1996Yd1uYRaXNMAdyD2bn7x5rb7tA-ktZCliPiOIw/s2650/original_331538d1-8f10-4661-96fe-b48877bd78bf_IMG_20230504_205830.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2650" data-original-width="2508" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs37uKur7ytWs9BK7CCaGeMzL41tdVT47XYOwBlbZgu9n9K8l_8abpACNU14Ba963SGrh-04IW2QCGgtUticjoyZEXmHw1R4QtelS9eHsU67ZmJeL9U-0OawZOvxqGC8ru-BxF7Q7r1D9s0BIJEI1996Yd1uYRaXNMAdyD2bn7x5rb7tA-ktZCliPiOIw/w379-h400/original_331538d1-8f10-4661-96fe-b48877bd78bf_IMG_20230504_205830.jpg" width="379" /></a></div><b>Maison Albera</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Emoció N°4 Grenache Blanc 2021 Côtes Catalanes (13% abv): Honeyed and yeast-lees on the nose, weighty vs fresh palate, very appealing. Solar energy generated in this vineyard powered the wine's production. €15-€16 France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Altitude 547m Carignan Gris 2021 Côtes Catalanes (12.5% abv): A bit different, zesty nutty mineral white from an elevated hillside site. Quite dear although somewhat rare: €22 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Altitude 503m Chardonnay 2022 Côtes Catalanes (12.5% abv): Claims to be "the highest Chardonnay in the south." And indeed, it's a very nice southern French Chablis-type wine, subtle and stylish. France €10.80.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Le Cépage Prohibé 530m 2022 Côtes Catalanes (11.5% abv): Made from 100% Vermentino (also planted high up), the name is a little dig at the Italians who've managed to force all other European growers to call this lovely Med variety Rolle (as they always have done in Provence by the way) or another synonym. What was that about not allowing anti-competitive behaviour in the EU market?! Anyway, a delightfully fresh aromatic and lees-y white, light and very tasty. €12.50 France.</div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEL8HJGD_GFsrOQXEtSDcDX4r8ba4eTYGHfnfXvSyQUjwItyMHME7NEit9l7xPbFyzvLGhbJaiRrlwANFxqT1ARc5OZlWYg_b5CmGDIkWPYL1hHL6yh8TOQAbu_ic8ls3fTBqOOhOJai3zokuoxN4AnqC0B_Ud8x17yHQ5aNC3IXlRIUvXmQyKjC5aNmA/s2711/original_61371d16-0a48-492a-93d4-842bbb73ac86_IMG_20230505_131136.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2711" data-original-width="2440" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEL8HJGD_GFsrOQXEtSDcDX4r8ba4eTYGHfnfXvSyQUjwItyMHME7NEit9l7xPbFyzvLGhbJaiRrlwANFxqT1ARc5OZlWYg_b5CmGDIkWPYL1hHL6yh8TOQAbu_ic8ls3fTBqOOhOJai3zokuoxN4AnqC0B_Ud8x17yHQ5aNC3IXlRIUvXmQyKjC5aNmA/w360-h400/original_61371d16-0a48-492a-93d4-842bbb73ac86_IMG_20230505_131136.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Vaquer</b> Esquisse 2022 Côtes du Roussillon: 40% Roussanne, 40% Macabeu, 20% Grenache Gris and Blanc, left on the fine lees until March. Banana aromas, quite rich nutty and intense, very crisp long finish, should age nicely. €14-€18 France, Germany, Belgium, Netherlands. £24 UK. USA: Kermit Lynch. Frédérique Vaquer above.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château de Rey</b> Les Galets Roulés 2022 Côtes du Roussillon: Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Grenache Gris; fermented in 400L barrels and left for 6 months before bottling. Fairly classy, aromatic but a bit closed up at first, should develop nicely. €18-€19.50 France, Germany, Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Terrassous</b> Les Pierres Plates blanc 2021 Côtes du Roussillon (14% abv): 53% Grenache Blanc, 32% Macabeu, 15% Vermentino; fermentation in cask at low temperature and lees-stirring for 5 months. Grapefruit notes mix with rich oily almost botrytis like fruit, powerful yet zesty and nutty too. Good. €10 France.</div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>ROSÉ</b> - Read this previous feature to discover a few exciting rosés from the central Roussillon:</div><div style="font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variant-position: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative; text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/08/rose-languedoc-vs-roussillon.html" style="background-color: white; color: #660000; font-family: Calibri; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><b>Rosé: Languedoc vs Roussillon</b></a> <span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 24px;"></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;">(31/08/23).</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>VINS DOUX NATURELS (VDN)</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9hg2DtBFmDGKPmTn_WMwDGp5hL-QbgrDowDWKMBj735xsa1B5bU7rPs_HsfbiamFuuXkYiR_q4t3IGHVekygmQ-b3wikylU7FOR5VylB1ufCAkgFlXT8pEUEeEQYZHlQ-4Tml3zMmL0GcvB5GwCBOeFttM9q7TPeqUipsUkxaYfvZRpBbv6Y54h-D2CY/s4160/IMG_20230505_143358.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9hg2DtBFmDGKPmTn_WMwDGp5hL-QbgrDowDWKMBj735xsa1B5bU7rPs_HsfbiamFuuXkYiR_q4t3IGHVekygmQ-b3wikylU7FOR5VylB1ufCAkgFlXT8pEUEeEQYZHlQ-4Tml3zMmL0GcvB5GwCBOeFttM9q7TPeqUipsUkxaYfvZRpBbv6Y54h-D2CY/w300-h400/IMG_20230505_143358.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Terrassous</b> Rivesaltes Ambré Hors d'Age 18 Ans: 50% Grenache Blanc, 50% Grenache Gris; part-fermented in cask and fortified, long cask-ageing. Rich nose of baked walnuts with hints of old Oloroso, sweet but very complex palate, a complete wow wine. France €27-€29. $45-$50 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Vaquer</b> Rivesaltes Hors d'Age Ambré 'Solera depuis 30 ans': 70% Grenache Gris and Blanc, 30% Macabeu. Made by <i>solera</i> type ageing but in concrete vats, the 'base wine' in vat is at least 35 years old and has been 'refreshed' over the last 30 years with a fraction of younger wine each time they bottle some. Another extraordinary beautiful old Ambré, hard to describe and rate it in a few words, it's so unusual and brilliant. France €30-€32.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château de Rey</b> 'Chouchou' Rivesaltes Tuilé 2016: 100% Grenache Noir. Maturing well with toffee-d red fruits, turning reddish-brown, very good. €16-€20 France, Belgium.</div><br /><div><div style="text-align: justify;">Other recent Roussillon stuff: <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/08/roussillon-maury-focus-red-and.html" target="_blank">Maury area</a>, <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/11/roussillon-north-continued.html" target="_blank">the north continued</a>, <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/12/roussillon-south.html" target="_blank">the south</a> and <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/08/rose-languedoc-vs-roussillon.html" target="_blank">rosé</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-89605738814916731462023-10-16T20:53:00.000+01:002023-10-16T20:53:22.496+01:00Argentina: Chardonnay, Torrontés, Semillon.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC47HEd2BGETRTcZU_MiWQC02GmTfdzmx6MTCM1LU9cUs9pAjm8MqOFSVW_CVu292X1uTKF-p52MEE8C0Zv4rOyCd-Ncyq7SX5rAgwuubowancBjbrwWJ44lVVNjmWphecbAkdH41n78kqWu0rsz-CHheNvd2TIaW7HWrM7QMR9W1wfNQkp4u-7dbVtYw/s2322/Chardy.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="1820" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC47HEd2BGETRTcZU_MiWQC02GmTfdzmx6MTCM1LU9cUs9pAjm8MqOFSVW_CVu292X1uTKF-p52MEE8C0Zv4rOyCd-Ncyq7SX5rAgwuubowancBjbrwWJ44lVVNjmWphecbAkdH41n78kqWu0rsz-CHheNvd2TIaW7HWrM7QMR9W1wfNQkp4u-7dbVtYw/w251-h320/Chardy.jpg" width="200" /></a><div style="text-align: justify;">Chardonnay is grown in many of Argentina's wine regions north to south although most of it by far in the province of Mendoza. It's officially the number two white grape (after Torrontés), which isn't saying much: Argentina remains serious red wine country. Making a perhaps more familiar European comparison though, there's about the same amount of Chardonnay as in Chablis, but planted much higher up.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">They may be limited in number but Chardonnays from Argentina are often very good, something I've noticed over the years and was reminded of at a recent <a href="https://www.winesofargentina.org/en" target="_blank">Wines of Argentina</a> tasting in Dublin. Argentinean winemakers are offering a range of different Chardy styles and prices too, from good value fresh fruity and unoaked to full-on rich buttery cask-influenced wines.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7sD3jR1QQ9Ib4yK_Dr-GEpvk9InAxQOxflzMUTMoaMNyhddJSNXbT5HWHs-DlPyWQAEhYBZjjtd7JxKjAogRxmC91ViFyhK8Owgx-KIbnFsuUElXNO-dy-suGTatCf3UGmcbx80_bEjVrVlPozS1iLqG4n08qzpNDPTOr0ZCRbCUed7l2J9QHA7mY0h4/s600/adriannav.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="414" data-original-width="600" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7sD3jR1QQ9Ib4yK_Dr-GEpvk9InAxQOxflzMUTMoaMNyhddJSNXbT5HWHs-DlPyWQAEhYBZjjtd7JxKjAogRxmC91ViFyhK8Owgx-KIbnFsuUElXNO-dy-suGTatCf3UGmcbx80_bEjVrVlPozS1iLqG4n08qzpNDPTOr0ZCRbCUed7l2J9QHA7mY0h4/w400-h276/adriannav.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Adrianna Vineyard, it's cool: <a href="https://catenazapata.com/" target="_blank">catenazapata.com</a>.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Catena Alta</b> 'Historic Rows' Chardonnay 2020 (13.6% abv): Great name for old vines I suppose, sourced from two high-altitude vineyards (1120 and 1450 metres as above) in Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza. Hence 'Alta'. Fermented in 500 litre French oak barrels with wild yeasts and aged for 14 months. Hints of oak but has lovely ripe citrus and creamy notes, rounded maturing palate yet still fresh and alive. Built to age I'd guess, class. €25-€30 Cassidy Wines, Dublin. £24-£27 UK. $30-$40 US, CA. €26-€28 Belgium, Spain. HK$300.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5RahjvpCrHK2-YJIa9ahZ_klPupcwcLzQC4yeHUyS87qfxo5F4r8NGvN9lqliDedfrFqRbJfnxZwNlBQ3DbdLa2dGSbGcZawAOByLzgGeQ45-iixmgGxIJTCBOFIGYi9k52uoGWpUBqRxj3MJU9iwNZRK6KcbdBnS77-ts17L0WfzY6Ew4w-c-zJfbhI/s1122/Andelune_Raices_Chardonnay_(1)-776x1176.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="302" data-original-width="1122" height="108" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5RahjvpCrHK2-YJIa9ahZ_klPupcwcLzQC4yeHUyS87qfxo5F4r8NGvN9lqliDedfrFqRbJfnxZwNlBQ3DbdLa2dGSbGcZawAOByLzgGeQ45-iixmgGxIJTCBOFIGYi9k52uoGWpUBqRxj3MJU9iwNZRK6KcbdBnS77-ts17L0WfzY6Ew4w-c-zJfbhI/w400-h108/Andelune_Raices_Chardonnay_(1)-776x1176.png" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Andeluna</b> Raices Chardonnay 2022, Mendoza (13.5% abv): 700 metres altitude. Fresh nose with yeast-lees tones, crisp and tasty with citrus and pineapple flavours and zesty finish. Very nice unoaked Chardy. €15.50 Wines on the Green, Dublin. ¥2500 Japan. €8 Netherlands. $15-$16 US. €10-€12 Portugal and Spain. £12 UK. R$75 Brazil.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Atamisque</b> Chardonnay 2021: Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza. Fermented and aged in new French oak for 10-12 months. Lovely deep colour, rich and buttery aromas / flavours, maturing finish with lively yeast lees and bite of acidity, delicious. €25-€30 Solera Wine Merchants, Dublin. £20-£25 UK. €24 Belgium. $25 US.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg51Du3KTLCNbdTyswnztYuyVpSV39AXTgDK19ZfmFouiN-wNJ-R-3Q2R_oj7Ny1XxzgRKr4dX7MLpwqgnDC5XTWTaLTetsfnPfl6km9z8yW0e-pHDb7oT1NTX2dMmMs6CL8wTgE92yZcPZDUuYR7-INvmbM1UmRQc0kPXo2LhWg9SeQi8Si-6W5i8fITI/s3972/original_1915a13d-fc49-4a37-9129-184589c9e9ba_IMG_20230904_152931.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2879" data-original-width="3972" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg51Du3KTLCNbdTyswnztYuyVpSV39AXTgDK19ZfmFouiN-wNJ-R-3Q2R_oj7Ny1XxzgRKr4dX7MLpwqgnDC5XTWTaLTetsfnPfl6km9z8yW0e-pHDb7oT1NTX2dMmMs6CL8wTgE92yZcPZDUuYR7-INvmbM1UmRQc0kPXo2LhWg9SeQi8Si-6W5i8fITI/w400-h290/original_1915a13d-fc49-4a37-9129-184589c9e9ba_IMG_20230904_152931.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Elsa Bianchi</b> Chardonnay 2018, San Rafael Mendoza (750 metres, 13% abv): Another tasty mature Chardy with creamy exotic fruit and nutty finish. €15 Dalcassian Wines, Dublin. £13.99 UK. $13-$15 US (Quintessential Wines, Family Wineries Direct). HK $75. MX$159. €11.50 Finland.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Doña Paula</b> Los Cardos Chardonnay 2021, Luján de Cuyo Mendoza (1000-1350 metres, 13.5% abv): No oak. Developing enticing buttery notes along with nice peachy fruit, good for the price. £10-£11 UK. €10-€12 Ireland. CA$16-$18. $10 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Rutini</b> Colección Chardonnay 2020: From sites in Gualtallary and Altamira (Tupungato, Mendoza), this is one of no less than six Chardonnays they make (and it shows). Half the wine aged for 9 months in French oak. Lees-y rich and buttery but with a tight minerally finish still, quite structured for its age. Another very good one. €32 Criado Beverages, Ireland. £24-£29 UK. $27-$30 US. HK $200.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5z-fFqNVpnsUtGSJAbAG0MNhk2kOqpj-Fw0kNd7AkTLZ9KB-K502MXh6nOG4QZ-mvf-SNoY7gEMwTGTNbX3Bx_mZSb4Ck8u-0jlXJSj83RHP29PtPgf3UB5ZUHULJWPgBH8yXJuRTCZBEDg3WOYKJXWJFvezzu9cW4s2ncfjfWyrYGcs9UA8DQQ8HydY/s1150/Rutini-Chardonnay.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="370" data-original-width="1150" height="129" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5z-fFqNVpnsUtGSJAbAG0MNhk2kOqpj-Fw0kNd7AkTLZ9KB-K502MXh6nOG4QZ-mvf-SNoY7gEMwTGTNbX3Bx_mZSb4Ck8u-0jlXJSj83RHP29PtPgf3UB5ZUHULJWPgBH8yXJuRTCZBEDg3WOYKJXWJFvezzu9cW4s2ncfjfWyrYGcs9UA8DQQ8HydY/w400-h129/Rutini-Chardonnay.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Luigi Bosca</b> La Linda Chardonnay 2022 (13.5% abv): 30 year-old vines grown in Maipú and Luján de Cuyo at 960 metres. Fresh citrus fruit and crisp mouthfeel, some zesty yeast-lees notes, nice refreshing unoaked style. €14 Barry & Fitzwilliam, Cork. £10-£12 UK. AUS $21.90. US $13-$15. SGD $43.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Pascual Toso</b> Alta Chardonnay 2020, Mendoza (photo at top): Lightly toasty textured with ripe citrus fruit and creamy yeast-lees flavours / zest, still quite fresh for its age with long tasty finish. Lovely. €30-€40 Ireland (Vineyard Wines). $45-$50 US (Quintessential Wines CA). PLN 199-213. Also: Korea.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Salentein</b> Chardonnay 2021, Uco Valley Mendoza (13.5% abv): Planted at 1250-1300 metres, 50% of it fermented and aged for 6 months in French oak with lees stirring. Lovely mix of fresh and aromatic while creamy with yeast-lees tones, well balanced finish, delicious Chardy. €22 Mackenway Dublin. £15 UK. €15-€16 Germany, Netherlands. $19 US.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOIFdh-U04VCZhr8RqCwvVnDoFZshBs5KGcG_5HUGIOmZuvBng-cZWjiL6qKJEIc8ROh1CHI4aBNnpxN3OjePBA92KRU_NSdjdma6OWa_MpXX6w7XsQaEIxlnowWCH4nbYQOmm8IaWQSDy2cO8bB3rChUg6rcdvUwqxyn8jFgYlFOhjY3edh7bl4gZN5s/s511/salentein.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="500" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOIFdh-U04VCZhr8RqCwvVnDoFZshBs5KGcG_5HUGIOmZuvBng-cZWjiL6qKJEIc8ROh1CHI4aBNnpxN3OjePBA92KRU_NSdjdma6OWa_MpXX6w7XsQaEIxlnowWCH4nbYQOmm8IaWQSDy2cO8bB3rChUg6rcdvUwqxyn8jFgYlFOhjY3edh7bl4gZN5s/w400-h236/salentein.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.bodegasalentein.com/" target="_blank">bodegasalentein.com</a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Other white wines</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Featuring four very different whites based on Torrontés, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, three varietals and one blend.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Susana Balbo</b> Signature Barrel Fermented Torrontés 2022, Uco Valley (grown at 1150 metres altitude, 13% abv): Cask-fermented and aged for 4 months with lees stirring. Very aromatic and crisp, appealing floral grapey Muscat-esque fruit characters with richly textured palate, nice and fresh finish though. Delicious white with very subtle use of oak. £20-£25 UK. ARS 9645-11347. Kr189 Sweden.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Susana Balbo</b> Signature White Blend 2022 (Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Torrontés): Similarly crisp and intense, again it's concentrated with lingering flavours and zingy bite.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB_H_wMZhS1h3zJ38mWxiCR6Gb7hf0KzXomzBz29a4AXkYX2NKyMSerN2WxDJdsHqeUrVkzOQ7Jx3DjH9L154ppqt9f_si6ceT7x9yjiGmwbVYb8MzLLktxL22fYFCmunrOMPOzn_VRlRiwS_BB-U6WWi-_TlFlt-UrGGMxvjeJ0YkyuQVMqvvdQX8BPQ/s921/Susana-Balbo-Signature-Barrel-Fermented-Torrontes_nueva_2048x2048_crop_center@2x.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="267" data-original-width="921" height="116" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB_H_wMZhS1h3zJ38mWxiCR6Gb7hf0KzXomzBz29a4AXkYX2NKyMSerN2WxDJdsHqeUrVkzOQ7Jx3DjH9L154ppqt9f_si6ceT7x9yjiGmwbVYb8MzLLktxL22fYFCmunrOMPOzn_VRlRiwS_BB-U6WWi-_TlFlt-UrGGMxvjeJ0YkyuQVMqvvdQX8BPQ/w400-h116/Susana-Balbo-Signature-Barrel-Fermented-Torrontes_nueva_2048x2048_crop_center@2x.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Doña Paula Estate</b> Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Luján de Cuyo: As a not great fan of SB I was persuaded to try this, and I'm glad I did. Maturing nicely while still lively actually with enticing pink grapefruit and asparagus notes, tasty fuller and oilier palate texture then crisp finish. Wow. €15 Bibendum Ireland.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Mendel </b>Semillon 2021, Luján de Cuyo: Yeast lees and lightly toasted notes, kind of 'reductive' Hunter Valley Semillon style with rounded honeyed fruit yet intense lime flavours too; odd but a serious foodie white I'd imagine. €22.50 Wines on the Green, Dublin.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">There's a trend to make 'White Malbec' too, as in white wines made from this red variety (avoiding any skin contact obviously). There were a couple at this Dublin tasting, which were fresh aromatic yeast-leesy and fairly light but not hugely exciting: the best of the two was from the big <b>Argento</b> wine brand owner (organic too). Perhaps this is a quick solution to produce more white wine using the most planted red grape, without having to plant new vineyards and wait a few years. With the added marketing twist of course of putting the established Malbec 'brand' on the label!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-62396293447351923842023-09-17T17:11:00.008+01:002023-12-06T18:08:52.066+00:00Languedoc: Saint Chinian<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPNnbUdx9ToQJehPJzHgOgO3IM-A3LXGyRpH5sOb7ZTA4ZRNSGRReGlbeBN_frOsyWt3Styisl_RKahcjyUGVACtx33uOLK_5mwz5Pil_7pgk0ld-tgi2-1l2YEK6aLOAHXwWk5fHXYDjeWuMruTtYBY4-Yqpurxxdbhn7mzhc5VynUFULZX0fJ9xubo0/s2560/Saint-Chinian-Schistes-Vieussan-5392-scaled.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1707" data-original-width="2560" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPNnbUdx9ToQJehPJzHgOgO3IM-A3LXGyRpH5sOb7ZTA4ZRNSGRReGlbeBN_frOsyWt3Styisl_RKahcjyUGVACtx33uOLK_5mwz5Pil_7pgk0ld-tgi2-1l2YEK6aLOAHXwWk5fHXYDjeWuMruTtYBY4-Yqpurxxdbhn7mzhc5VynUFULZX0fJ9xubo0/w400-h266/Saint-Chinian-Schistes-Vieussan-5392-scaled.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Vieussan from <a href="https://saint-chinian.com" target="_blank">saint-chinian.com</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The Saint-Chinian region lies between Béziers and Minervois and northwards to the jagged hills at the bottom of the <i>Massif Central</i>. It stretches from the villages of Quarante to Vieussan south to north, and from Murviel-lès-Béziers to Ferrières-Poussarou east to west; a vast area of about 40 by 30 kilometres. So, the idea that all wines produced in this appellation represent and express one distinct namesake <i>terroir</i> or 'taste of place' is a stretch.<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">However, there is a convincing argument that different zones exist within it reflecting particular vineyards where landscape, terrain and climate are consistent enough to convey some kind of collective sense and character to the wines. The Orb river also conveniently divides it into two or three parts, where geology does vary accordingly (more schist and hillier in the north, more limestone and flatter to the south).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">At the end of the day, there are plenty of diverse, and similar, good-quality wines to discover here, there and everywhere, which is of course what counts for people looking for new wines to try. Obviously, local winegrowers-makers had to label them as something, so why not Saint-Chinian as their unifying name which is a pleasant small town in the middle of it, more or less, as well as a good base for scenic wine touring.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">This selection (listed by vintage) of 24 Saint-Chinian white and red wines worthy of attention were sampled on a spring trip to the Languedoc. There's also a couple of recommended Saint-Chinian rosés in this <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/08/rose-languedoc-vs-roussillon.html" target="_blank">Languedoc vs Roussillon rosé</a> report. The white wines might surprise anyone who hasn't tasted any from here: generally, of consistently high standard.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The reds come in all shapes, sizes, styles and excitements: something for everyone out of a big melting pot. Some of the older vintages stood out especially showing their age-worthy-ness including 2019, which doesn't seem to be such a success in other Languedoc or Roussillon regions from what I've tasted.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">WHITE WINES</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnAwK4RoeGBpy2O-HiR4B8-0SRdE6nDUykQa224QxQRyx5dSk02Qjadh-nVjZxNE-sL7MAvI6xVxLuOkuR0wFv-vWOpKXdPcOrEW1Dnyw20vAcXwI2q-Ck87-GyE3O94aiECJEFHHpUuxIW_yExtMs6CJkdnLyS1sssZuq9i0Jn1KmJ1L-S99CENS_CpA/s3846/Clos%20Baga%20blc.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1073" data-original-width="3846" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnAwK4RoeGBpy2O-HiR4B8-0SRdE6nDUykQa224QxQRyx5dSk02Qjadh-nVjZxNE-sL7MAvI6xVxLuOkuR0wFv-vWOpKXdPcOrEW1Dnyw20vAcXwI2q-Ck87-GyE3O94aiECJEFHHpUuxIW_yExtMs6CJkdnLyS1sssZuq9i0Jn1KmJ1L-S99CENS_CpA/w640-h178/Clos%20Baga%20blc.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Clos Bagatelle</b> 2022 (13.5% abv) - Whole-bunch pressed, Roussanne and Carignan Blanc fermented and stored in vats; Grenache Blanc, Vermentino and Viognier aged in new casks for 2 months with lees' stirring. Aromatic and exotic fruits at the same time with delicious fleshy vs fresh texture. €11-€12 France, Germany, Belgium. €16 Sweden. £14.50-£17.50 UK. Image: <a href="https://boutinot.com" target="_blank">boutinot.com</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Foncalieu </b>Petit Paradis 2022 - 50% Grenache Blanc, 30% Marsanne, 20% Vermentino; small portion spent 6 months in oak. Intensely aromatic almost Sauvignon style characters, crisp green fruits then oily mouthfeel, another tasty dry white. €10-€11 France. €11-€13 Netherlands, Belgium. £10-£13 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine des Jougla</b> Eime de Vinha 2022 (organic) - 50% Vermentino, 40% Grenache Blanc, 10% Viognier; aged 3 months in <i>barriques</i>. Oily and rich texture, rounded palate yet with nice 'mineral' finish. €13.60-€15.10 France and Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine La Linquière</b> Fleur de Lin 2022 (13.5% abv) - Vermentino and Grenache Blanc, 3 months in oak. Peachy aromas and flavours with lovely long zesty finish. €10.50-€12 France. Also: UK, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJSngWu-xCimvZ-00GBT8KOpLTCvXSoR1JOWKEHD1PSbgyFtT6ykgDkjSd6ipi4ibmstcV0zSRV6_q7qJQyKM0k9uCf778KmfrSZVL5mFdmO9O1EcZMVmgzL4Vklr0ayQNLtjlddOL1UJezkqMxtYQCx-RvbJDydsy4n100jspj5fLYPtl4Mgp8YM1nMc/s1751/Marion%20Pla%20mine.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1751" data-original-width="1209" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJSngWu-xCimvZ-00GBT8KOpLTCvXSoR1JOWKEHD1PSbgyFtT6ykgDkjSd6ipi4ibmstcV0zSRV6_q7qJQyKM0k9uCf778KmfrSZVL5mFdmO9O1EcZMVmgzL4Vklr0ayQNLtjlddOL1UJezkqMxtYQCx-RvbJDydsy4n100jspj5fLYPtl4Mgp8YM1nMc/s320/Marion%20Pla%20mine.jpg" width="221" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Marion Pla</b> Les Larmes de Jeanne 2022 (organic) - Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, kept on fine lees before bottling. Again offers enticing richness of fruit and texture while zingy and intense too. Also very good. €9.50-€11 France, Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Cave de Berlou</b> Terre de Loup Schisteil 2022 - Marsanne, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc. Full-on nose with yeast-lees notes, crisp yet weighty palate at the same time, very enjoyable and great value. €7.50-€8 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château Viranel</b> Intuition 2022 - 15% of the blend fermented in <i>barriques</i>, stored and stirred on lees for 3 months. Yeast-lees tones, zesty and aromatic, appealing 'chalky' texture to finish. Good stuff. €12 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"></div><span style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;">RED WINES</div></span><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoKbB_0Pan9vaFtXLcuPqt8yJTe96wBhse3RQdfMUaJgQjYCMtr7KozTNaVwQZ0m6Qs9sa8MKdqRePE2o0fQd3HAec_LKEU2_CMLVRfRjMeVoK5YWCAFDMXyYzXsprYV95HbrO02AhklsflrC121Wuo7DGa_WYPhDoJCEBVvA-hs8mb-eJlt663WdTleI/s672/Bouteille-ecommerce-empreintes-aop.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="209" data-original-width="672" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoKbB_0Pan9vaFtXLcuPqt8yJTe96wBhse3RQdfMUaJgQjYCMtr7KozTNaVwQZ0m6Qs9sa8MKdqRePE2o0fQd3HAec_LKEU2_CMLVRfRjMeVoK5YWCAFDMXyYzXsprYV95HbrO02AhklsflrC121Wuo7DGa_WYPhDoJCEBVvA-hs8mb-eJlt663WdTleI/w640-h199/Bouteille-ecommerce-empreintes-aop.png" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Terres 2 Frères</b> Empreintes 2022: Syrah and Grenache (organic). Attractive Syrah-led style, quite rich with chalky tannins lending a firm-ish palate yet plenty of chunky fruit too. €14 France. Image: <a href="https://terres2freres.com/" target="_blank">terres2freres.com</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Les Coteaux de Rieutort</b> Schistes en Velours 2022: From the co-op cellar in Murviel-lès-Béziers. 85% Syrah, 15% Grenache. Appealing aromatic and spicy fruit, very drinkable already. €9.60 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Les Eminades</b> La Pierre Plantée 2022 (13% abv): Syrah, Cinsault (60+ year-old vines) and Grenache (organic). Quite structured firm and fresh mouthfeel balanced by tasty fruit and rounded tannins. €11-€13 France. €13-€14 Belgium, Germany. €21 Ireland. $25 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Clos Bagatelle</b> Au fil de soi 2022: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre; 1 year in cask. Fairly concentrated while fruity and fresh, structured palate but with supple textured tannins. Very promising. €15-€18 France. £17.69 UK. $25 US/CA.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Clos Bagatelle</b> Donnadieu 2021 (13.5% abv): Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache and Carignan; no oak. Vibrant concentrated black fruits, wild herbs and spice, firm fresh palate with softening tannins and lingering flavours. €11-€14 France, Belgium, Germany. $16.50-$17.50 Canada. £15-£17 UK. F13.50 Switzerland. Also: US and Netherlands.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Fortant</b> Sélections Parcellaires 2021: Syrah and Grenache vinified in the same way, Mourvèdre separately; 6 months on the lees before bottling. Tasty maturing aromas and flavours, a bit of tannin adding structure, drinking well now. €9 France. £13.50 UK. NZD $28.00.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine La Madura</b> Canopé 2021 (13.5% abv): Mourvèdre (32%), Grenache (13%), Carignan (9%) - many of them old bush vines - and Syrah (46%); Syrah and Mourvèdre malolactic fermentation in <i>barriques</i> then left on lees for a year. More concentrated than their appealing Classic red with good depth of fruit, chalky tannins and a hint of oak texture. €22-€24 France and Belgium. US $37 (Chicago). CHF 28.50-35.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPXNdtBEh2My5wFmvcIu4n24pduf6NS_lOfYFwW2RAsUGbp34nZRP7vNWY_V25oUjEE5zjKzKWD20O1yW_uFNiHd492PXMvEmKGtQ0cG47-ykIR_uHmCRa43s2hK5xZZ8ZVmHxu_wY3r6Klue4j8DSBRCy1de6p1raCfDd38yw5DOuU4fZ2P91v1HEzmc/s3235/original_66e1668d-9f69-4d8b-bfd3-1815f533face_IMG_20230502_103001.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3235" data-original-width="1954" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPXNdtBEh2My5wFmvcIu4n24pduf6NS_lOfYFwW2RAsUGbp34nZRP7vNWY_V25oUjEE5zjKzKWD20O1yW_uFNiHd492PXMvEmKGtQ0cG47-ykIR_uHmCRa43s2hK5xZZ8ZVmHxu_wY3r6Klue4j8DSBRCy1de6p1raCfDd38yw5DOuU4fZ2P91v1HEzmc/s320/original_66e1668d-9f69-4d8b-bfd3-1815f533face_IMG_20230502_103001.jpg" width="190" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine des Jougla</b> Ancestrale 2020 (13% abv): 40% Mourvèdre, 30% Syrah, 30% Grenache. Enticingly maturing and savoury, rich yet subtle palate, very good (and value) and might age more. €10 France and Netherlands.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine La Croix Sainte-Eulalie</b> Armandélis 2020: 80% Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre (organic), aged 1 year in cask. Spicy peppery nose with rustic hints, good depth of fruit and concentration. €12.50-€14 France, Belgium, Germany.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château Bousquette</b> Pruneyrac 2020: 50% Grenache, 50% Mourvèdre (organic); no oak. Powerful and concentrated, maturing fruit with spicy minty tones, tasty. €9.50-€11 France, Germany. €14 Netherlands, Belgium. Also Switzerland.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0kzFh5qpGUmEd718MIW5Kz_EaeQ9JyWiBpsWFJBqn3MTZiLNAqhHlnI8hg7QzDQCaCa1GcTb4ea5LRL88fgW78Cnce4_AOwoh5Utb6KPHSH9DRrI4KeWtCKxBIoTNl3qa_OP3anF8zU32DvRa0b2X0MK50zPnf3sAS2QsiuxII5FPOMj2OnVnkc4N0VE/s4160/original_00e7aa19-9cd1-417b-8fe1-791cc1be3b23_IMG_20230502_102901.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="1988" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0kzFh5qpGUmEd718MIW5Kz_EaeQ9JyWiBpsWFJBqn3MTZiLNAqhHlnI8hg7QzDQCaCa1GcTb4ea5LRL88fgW78Cnce4_AOwoh5Utb6KPHSH9DRrI4KeWtCKxBIoTNl3qa_OP3anF8zU32DvRa0b2X0MK50zPnf3sAS2QsiuxII5FPOMj2OnVnkc4N0VE/s320/original_00e7aa19-9cd1-417b-8fe1-791cc1be3b23_IMG_20230502_102901.jpg" width="153" /></a></div>Mas Champart</b> Côte d'Arbo 2019 (14% abv): 35% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 20% Carignan/Cinsault, 15% Mourvèdre; 18 months in vat before bottling without fining. Maturing nicely with dried wild herb and liquorice notes, quite fine with well-textured tannins. France €11.50-€13.90. £12.50 UK (Wine Society). €13.50-€15.50 Belgium. $22.50 Canada. Also: US importer Kermit Lynch. Germany, Korea.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Mas de Cynanque</b> Amphyèdre 2019 (organic): Mostly Mourvèdre vinified in sandstone amphorae. Lovely rich spicy wine, concentrated finish, very good. The second dearest red on tasting, so it should be. €33 France, Belgium. CHF35-39 Switzerland. Kr420 Norway. I also liked their less expensive 2019 Acutum (€15).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWkPiQ47TejJPm5ammLd4KOZRijkN_KI0RCjgMwGE9XDPl8Dwp6hCX1JxqyuWtQksYfj7g74tNJo2UlZWJGJ0TKxilIAx-qdTVCBdemhRQrowkdz6nXPk3knTiK_hW0BLHOTSvIrRulnBghOAFAxG7xU2M6eyCoL5kV1-hH2e1oOINzQqeuAG0qJZNNu4/s3767/original_5005b5bb-0818-4818-a698-ae20336585d4_IMG_20230502_102759.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3767" data-original-width="2466" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWkPiQ47TejJPm5ammLd4KOZRijkN_KI0RCjgMwGE9XDPl8Dwp6hCX1JxqyuWtQksYfj7g74tNJo2UlZWJGJ0TKxilIAx-qdTVCBdemhRQrowkdz6nXPk3knTiK_hW0BLHOTSvIrRulnBghOAFAxG7xU2M6eyCoL5kV1-hH2e1oOINzQqeuAG0qJZNNu4/w210-h320/original_5005b5bb-0818-4818-a698-ae20336585d4_IMG_20230502_102759.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>Domaine de Pech-Ménel</b> Château Vallouvières 2019 (14.5% abv): Mourvèdre 70% and Grenache 30%, no oak. Delicious nose mixing maturing savoury vs wild herby notes, chunky and full-bodied while softening nicely. €16-€17 France and Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château Castigno</b> Secret des Dieux 2019 (organic/biodynamic): Grenache (15 months in concrete vats and 5 months in stainless), Syrah and Carignan (partly 19 months in used barriques, partly concrete vats). Attractive mature red for drinking now. €18-€21 France and Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château La Dournie</b> Elise 2019 (organic): Mostly Syrah with Grenache; 12 months in cask, 12 months in vat. Mature and earthy nose, good depth of fruit and palate with lingering liquorice and spice flavours. €19.50 France. Older vintages: £22 UK. AUS $52-55. €17-€21 Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgEMwfZN0EkpfYd-aglDwjaGAV6rYOsFQ9r2RF2vVp1_x9GNytIL1tqchV89dAVfWSCG8mUn-UCjWZo3uvXgcKTy4vbgTWmu3VP6f9QtsHk2B93hGvYt5swHpaapi1s1oM3ionwuXQJ42vuUamB5CBy1OjuXNEF5F1Tf14Cs408_ZwuU9IgQQmxSMTtsk/s2993/original_3b2e7f37-ec83-482f-8935-0117ebb7da4a_IMG_20230502_103552.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2993" data-original-width="2410" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgEMwfZN0EkpfYd-aglDwjaGAV6rYOsFQ9r2RF2vVp1_x9GNytIL1tqchV89dAVfWSCG8mUn-UCjWZo3uvXgcKTy4vbgTWmu3VP6f9QtsHk2B93hGvYt5swHpaapi1s1oM3ionwuXQJ42vuUamB5CBy1OjuXNEF5F1Tf14Cs408_ZwuU9IgQQmxSMTtsk/w161-h200/original_3b2e7f37-ec83-482f-8935-0117ebb7da4a_IMG_20230502_103552.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>Domaine La Bosque</b> Cayenne 2019: mostly Grenache, Carignan; 12 months in stainless tank, no fining. Concentrated with more of those delicious liquorice and spice aromas and flavours, nice softening tannins, lingering finish. Good value for quality: €14-€15.50 France, Belgium. CHF19.50. China Vineland Agency.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLplUoVS0VMVwMfqX7CAzb7nXeMecmFoJMUHVbKzAC6tyMBzUl9INs7jynNijHJpQ76oG6eUa2h3yFTdXNxj4byR_PRa7baHrr9msLeFM85SJ0wx0bTlsH51OnuDdsRefNGdApAanPqQPuTcIU44dk-RMnXmyqWCgprzmvsf0xTWG_TWAw2Jx5eXSDjEM/s3199/original_55dbaf9f-e178-4244-98e0-d80d2581f624_IMG_20230502_104512.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3199" data-original-width="2254" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLplUoVS0VMVwMfqX7CAzb7nXeMecmFoJMUHVbKzAC6tyMBzUl9INs7jynNijHJpQ76oG6eUa2h3yFTdXNxj4byR_PRa7baHrr9msLeFM85SJ0wx0bTlsH51OnuDdsRefNGdApAanPqQPuTcIU44dk-RMnXmyqWCgprzmvsf0xTWG_TWAw2Jx5eXSDjEM/w141-h200/original_55dbaf9f-e178-4244-98e0-d80d2581f624_IMG_20230502_104512.jpg" width="176" /></a></div><b>Domaine de Pech-Ménel</b> Château Pech-Ménel 2015 (14% abv): Syrah and Grenache, no oak. Lovely mature red, complex and accomplished. €19-€21 France and Belgium. Also USA.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Other recent Languedoc stuff: <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/07/languedoc-fitou-domaines-du-vent.html" target="_blank">Fitou</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-78369335190684482102023-08-31T16:26:00.002+01:002023-08-31T16:34:53.684+01:00Rosé: Languedoc vs Roussillon.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijo7ld3vAAmLKPdnjdrVxv0c4VqUK1Oy70MzwojVkdh_vlEMlRgJRVsi2_PsKSDPFSfk6HCiGQZKza1LwmBoSMUbfSoaFDKFS4UlhlmBHQEfyF4Owr9BmgNf2oOnrJJiwOgehncxtIAujtF4QLYtQs00DJK37ljybVBb4DxcHJqh1V3EPzk1sAuhmS_NE/s3962/original_cf0a3ebd-231a-4bf1-8f80-b92f57d3f99e_IMG_20230504_115004.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2841" data-original-width="3962" height="357" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijo7ld3vAAmLKPdnjdrVxv0c4VqUK1Oy70MzwojVkdh_vlEMlRgJRVsi2_PsKSDPFSfk6HCiGQZKza1LwmBoSMUbfSoaFDKFS4UlhlmBHQEfyF4Owr9BmgNf2oOnrJJiwOgehncxtIAujtF4QLYtQs00DJK37ljybVBb4DxcHJqh1V3EPzk1sAuhmS_NE/w640-h458/original_cf0a3ebd-231a-4bf1-8f80-b92f57d3f99e_IMG_20230504_115004.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Is there a big difference in rosé from the Languedoc and Roussillon? Winemakers in both regions tend to have the same red grape varieties - mainly Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault (less so in the Roussillon) and Mourvèdre - and production techniques don't vary much from one place to another. Except for the particular style of rosé intended in terms of colour (deeper redder or paler pink), flavour and 'seriousness' (richer fruitier fuller or more aromatic zestier lighter).<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUU2i_ZOBBOu4l5qDDX4Lt0I3mBe3g7gm2jV45T6kdC37wyjbnz9g29gP2MslK-KCsBikUGTD6h6L7JHRA20Y0hv2O1_ekPfyZ4eAv8h5UYmcRTRhQ2Bp8VF_pNF2FEd8etdAywbiGMT6Sre4FQmSPquaUFmsmojA0WCks9cV4yqWu9H6n5tmqEpe5928/s2278/original_27d9f3b9-5e6b-47ae-a082-ba2a151af216_IMG_20230503_111554.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2278" data-original-width="1808" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUU2i_ZOBBOu4l5qDDX4Lt0I3mBe3g7gm2jV45T6kdC37wyjbnz9g29gP2MslK-KCsBikUGTD6h6L7JHRA20Y0hv2O1_ekPfyZ4eAv8h5UYmcRTRhQ2Bp8VF_pNF2FEd8etdAywbiGMT6Sre4FQmSPquaUFmsmojA0WCks9cV4yqWu9H6n5tmqEpe5928/s320/original_27d9f3b9-5e6b-47ae-a082-ba2a151af216_IMG_20230503_111554.jpg" width="275" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXWw-UPypcnt5t-tHOnPEmluBy62YR2tMCohVadcttXulbN_BPV6xXPGK5_pP41DySpf7jC78eGG-D5ZJ0Il6PKmGZx0D1-czCXjM-AA4yc-4JIWPcdwNwhtsYAoBhiL-M9n5IT7lCgtXqH3VPf3dJxQPf5v6UH8N9sZpdU1Rb3_5qTEcYD4bTzWE6Nzs/s4065/original_4daede35-5de3-4b20-8ba8-b221b865bd7b_IMG_20230503_110250.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4065" data-original-width="1824" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXWw-UPypcnt5t-tHOnPEmluBy62YR2tMCohVadcttXulbN_BPV6xXPGK5_pP41DySpf7jC78eGG-D5ZJ0Il6PKmGZx0D1-czCXjM-AA4yc-4JIWPcdwNwhtsYAoBhiL-M9n5IT7lCgtXqH3VPf3dJxQPf5v6UH8N9sZpdU1Rb3_5qTEcYD4bTzWE6Nzs/s320/original_4daede35-5de3-4b20-8ba8-b221b865bd7b_IMG_20230503_110250.jpg" width="154" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">If you have to make generalisations, the Roussillon rosé tradition is closer to Catalonia, Navarra or Aragon in Spain; and Languedoc styles perhaps closer to 'classic' Provence rosé. Although of course, you will find all types of rosé in either region; and sometimes a producer will make a couple of very different pink wines deliberately depending on their and their customers' tastes.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The main choices involved are the varieties in the blend (or using just one), when you pick the grapes - earlier = lower alcohol, fresher acidity, later = fuller-bodied, riper fruit character - and how long these grapes are macerated with the skins to create the desired colour. Either briefly before the juice is run off (paler/lighter) or steeped for several hours (one or two days even) before pressing (deep crimson almost), or somewhere inbetween.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3OGq6lM1H55zwZjwmzAykV0sBSMIBOyiAvVOskrXVD4FLIwqM1VsTfTRsfbnL-3uzt6PEDjN0lMc5bMTrqHm9Dao5YrvvlGGpBN-M1DvePltknTBZgbUx-xBPowV4Drcq9Xu6HhmOMt9C9Q8qq9UANRnAFN9tjGRS1JPGcF4fW8bJDllVN22okqE7MnU/s2993/original_58118d4b-54f4-48c8-89fe-921dcff737ae_IMG_20230505_113738.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2537" data-original-width="2993" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3OGq6lM1H55zwZjwmzAykV0sBSMIBOyiAvVOskrXVD4FLIwqM1VsTfTRsfbnL-3uzt6PEDjN0lMc5bMTrqHm9Dao5YrvvlGGpBN-M1DvePltknTBZgbUx-xBPowV4Drcq9Xu6HhmOMt9C9Q8qq9UANRnAFN9tjGRS1JPGcF4fW8bJDllVN22okqE7MnU/w640-h542/original_58118d4b-54f4-48c8-89fe-921dcff737ae_IMG_20230505_113738.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">After pressing or 'bleeding' (hence <i>rosé de saignée</i> in French, <i>rosado de sangrado</i> or <i>rosado de lágrima</i> in Spanish, free-run juice), virtually all rosé is finished in the same way by fermenting as a white wine in tanks at low temperatures and protected from air. After settling, storing a rosé in vat on the residual yeast-lees particles (or not) will enhance or refine the style and quality to an extent, from a few weeks to several months depending on how soon the winemaker wants to release it.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Occasionally, a winemaker experiments with barrels to ferment and/or age a rosé to create a more distinctive wine - rounded and textured - with varying degrees of success (who wants an oaky tasting rosé). Grenache and Syrah are often the base for richer coloured fuller fruitier wines, Carignan and Cinsault for fresher lighter ones, and Mourvèdre for a more powerful age-worthy style. But once again, generally speaking. Like saying one region makes better rosé than the other: depends, probably Roussillon, in general!</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdOeW4Clu7aEyjFHWxkxSULdo6znrX4k3-IuKReNeMSmQAikszuEqLl52-aCJd3YynCct64DqNdt7zgDDWjoqIGeP6nZ1MHUxlJjlHQ5ZCwhsOBDYhoLuA8KgUhkYR8REOWDudezrDZrAoK0QBOpuSnlm4qg3Z0k9Ebh-03gnpyA8Uepdrkb11xN9rhNc/s3811/original_09fdd59f-e27b-43b6-bcff-547948d5a3fb_IMG_20230503_110538.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3811" data-original-width="1616" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdOeW4Clu7aEyjFHWxkxSULdo6znrX4k3-IuKReNeMSmQAikszuEqLl52-aCJd3YynCct64DqNdt7zgDDWjoqIGeP6nZ1MHUxlJjlHQ5ZCwhsOBDYhoLuA8KgUhkYR8REOWDudezrDZrAoK0QBOpuSnlm4qg3Z0k9Ebh-03gnpyA8Uepdrkb11xN9rhNc/s320/original_09fdd59f-e27b-43b6-bcff-547948d5a3fb_IMG_20230503_110538.jpg" width="144" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfIecTMbWtsMBp9XfQmMBgvptkktRIZv7mIA8rEJe0IxPE5YQseaAGX77d5GSwR57jXKFajTefaKQf7RHcNiik1sVMXxN9-8wrYxNqDoXAdu3H0ZP9LXWUaB_0dB7Zi-Tz_7o4zdSi_nwmKD-jKsvPZcpoSSMq0YgpNIj5r0Sz6mnwpmwD5oqm1YVe53U/s2686/original_a0e4344f-6dc0-46a3-96d3-e43ecbded65a_IMG_20230503_121141.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2686" data-original-width="2600" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfIecTMbWtsMBp9XfQmMBgvptkktRIZv7mIA8rEJe0IxPE5YQseaAGX77d5GSwR57jXKFajTefaKQf7RHcNiik1sVMXxN9-8wrYxNqDoXAdu3H0ZP9LXWUaB_0dB7Zi-Tz_7o4zdSi_nwmKD-jKsvPZcpoSSMq0YgpNIj5r0Sz6mnwpmwD5oqm1YVe53U/w305-h340/original_a0e4344f-6dc0-46a3-96d3-e43ecbded65a_IMG_20230503_121141.jpg" width="290" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Here's my A to Z list of top 25 rosés from the Languedoc and Roussillon sampled or quaffed this year (so far - alphabetical by producer: surname or first letter of winery name ignoring domaine, château, le, la etc.).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>ROUSSILLON ROSÉ</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Maison Albera</b> Rosé des Cimes 2022, Côtes du Roussillon (12% abv): <i>Cimes</i> means treetops or peaks, since this rosé is sourced from vineyards at 597 metres altitude (so it says on the label) in the north-central Roussillon: owner Fabrice reckons it's "France's highest rosé." Unusually a blend of 80% Grenache Gris (short maceration) and 20% Syrah (<i>pressurage direct</i> = free-run juice), giving a light juicy rosé with red fruits and nice crisp finish; tasty. €11.50 France. €9.94/€12.43 Luxembourg. Also: Belgium, Germany, Spain, Japan.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Boudau</b> Le Petit Closi 2022, Côtes Catalanes: 40% Grenache noir, 40% Syrah, 20% Cinsault (organic); maceration on skins 'overnight'. Quite deep colour, vibrant red fruits and nice crisp finish. Easy drinking and good value. €8.40 France. €9 Germany. €11.95 Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Lafage</b> Gallica 2022, Côtes du Roussillon: 40% Mourvèdre, 25% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 10% Grenache Gris from 3 sites: 100 year-old bush vines Les Aspres, coastal vineyards and upper Agly valley. Lightly pressed and chilled, maceration with lees for 1 month before fermentation, part of it fermented in wooden vats with lees-stirring for 4 months, left on the fine lees before bottling. Aromatic fruit and zesty with pleasing fresh finish yet rounded and lingering. €15.50 France. £15 UK. €14-€15 Germany. CHF 16.50-18.95 Switzerland. €14 Spain. Romania 89 lei. €15.50-€17.50 Belgium. CA$ 25. 149kr Denmark.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château Montner</b> 2022, Côtes du Roussillon: 55% Syrah, 35% Grenache, 10% Carignan; maceration on skins for 8 hours. Made by les Vignerons des Côtes d'Agly (co-op union based in Estagel with seven vineyard sites in the north) offering another appealing rosé with good fruit and crisp finish. €7 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0-kqiU3uVfkS_4UQiyeI1KFH9vtHYeXRbsov85LsQogyd-G1fknPHjVA6IfuwOSVdR9fFjFcsP3THUlwhqHvtcm2Hw4IC2wgsCG9V5jF9fiP6F3zE371j6iRKqeAi9xkE2SXcmByQvR1YI3pHaxEdxE6xS6DFOjuSBDCMYBEYt6bdF0fTup7yGU4G9iY/s844/Rasig.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="844" data-original-width="780" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0-kqiU3uVfkS_4UQiyeI1KFH9vtHYeXRbsov85LsQogyd-G1fknPHjVA6IfuwOSVdR9fFjFcsP3THUlwhqHvtcm2Hw4IC2wgsCG9V5jF9fiP6F3zE371j6iRKqeAi9xkE2SXcmByQvR1YI3pHaxEdxE6xS6DFOjuSBDCMYBEYt6bdF0fTup7yGU4G9iY/s320/Rasig.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCUKoZ2y043PjnqH7B9C2MgC7CcJ7lb02LBJ3rptpU2A42hZZKwciFFYsO84jBedRuiDUhkg3jpeIKdCbL5aUohOQjv5lHHLBKnJGl134WrYpyf4rhlOe7zMOozwQnhAklhhP7Ayoj3MbaJfBG43Vw6vqz_AjuSCvoJ3oVUmsQzlLVcRETR6dtpeV7oQ4/s4160/original_99364cae-9d88-4a4b-ab56-6fa00e487fe0_IMG_20230504_114459.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3009" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCUKoZ2y043PjnqH7B9C2MgC7CcJ7lb02LBJ3rptpU2A42hZZKwciFFYsO84jBedRuiDUhkg3jpeIKdCbL5aUohOQjv5lHHLBKnJGl134WrYpyf4rhlOe7zMOozwQnhAklhhP7Ayoj3MbaJfBG43Vw6vqz_AjuSCvoJ3oVUmsQzlLVcRETR6dtpeV7oQ4/s320/original_99364cae-9d88-4a4b-ab56-6fa00e487fe0_IMG_20230504_114459.jpg" width="190" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><div><b>Château Mossé</b> 2022, Côtes du Roussillon (12.5% abv): Part of the Vignobles Terrassous group of co-op cellars in the Aspres (this estate located between Terrats and Thuir). 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah drained and pressed. Zesty and tight on the palate at first, well-made rosé offering weight, fruit and freshness. €7.50-€8.50 France.</div><div><b>Château Planères</b> Prestige 2022, Côtes du Roussillon: Syrah, Cinsault and Grenache; macerated overnight and run off. Attractive lively rosé bridging Provence and Roussillon styles nicely. €10.20 France. €13 Belgium and Netherlands.</div><div><b>Domaine de Rombeau</b> Le Botaniste Figure 2, Côtes du Roussillon 2022 (13% abv): 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah (organic), light pressing and free-run juice. More intense style with lots of red fruits and zesty chalky aftertaste. €12 France.</div><div><b>Le Rosé du Soula</b> 2022, Côtes Catalanes (biodynamic, 12.5% abv): free-run Syrah, spent 6 months in <i>demi-muids</i> casks. Again full-on reddish pink, pretty intense too with depth of fruit and clean crisp bite; fairly serious. €15 France. $29-$38 US (importer Terres Blanches Wine). €20 Belgium. €28 Ireland.</div><div><b>Domaine La Tour Vieille</b> Rosé des Roches 2022, Collioure (14% abv): 50% Syrah (macerated 30 hours), 50% Grenache (pressed directly). Epic Collioure rosé in the local tradition with rich colour and red fruits, full rounded mouthfeel while zingy too. €12.50 France (reasonable for expensive Collioure rosé). £12.89 UK. US$26. CA$22.20.</div><div><b>Trémoine de Rasiguères</b> 2022: 80% Syrah and 20% Grenache (old vines), 6-12 hours skin maceration then cold-settled for 3 days. The legendary deep-cherry coloured big-fruity Roussillon rosé style from the quality Les Vignerons de Trémoine co-op winery. Lots of ripe and juicy red berries and cherries, powerful textured and full-bodied but fresh too. €8 France.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwzI9E3Sd7nbgz5Ab9M7JxCLpIniKCEMWqeXIehS3tMd3CRWD3WxHBx7tV9H-OE196Hr_SiiTtG7KWmIejXeUia4ZZN_TgcBW7A_9qGzUvipUxNH3NkXNgMGOfqD7_UV-B1J5rnyBAskbziPrPl5QF5TeEZlw2qGNKU8GcyCC8tE7VHPoushCCS4H5i84/s2048/Rasigueres.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="855" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwzI9E3Sd7nbgz5Ab9M7JxCLpIniKCEMWqeXIehS3tMd3CRWD3WxHBx7tV9H-OE196Hr_SiiTtG7KWmIejXeUia4ZZN_TgcBW7A_9qGzUvipUxNH3NkXNgMGOfqD7_UV-B1J5rnyBAskbziPrPl5QF5TeEZlw2qGNKU8GcyCC8tE7VHPoushCCS4H5i84/w640-h269/Rasigueres.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Rasiguères country, source of rugged rosé: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/tremoine" target="_blank">facebook.com/tremoine</a></div><div><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>LANGUEDOC ROSÉ</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château Camplazens</b> Reserve 2022, Languedoc: 60-40 Grenache-Syrah 'bled off and pressed', 7 months in vats. Attractively zesty with nice bite, rose petal and red fruits on the finish. €10 France. €11.50 Belgium and Netherlands. Also: Germany, Denmark.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château La Dournie</b> Le Classic 2022, Saint-Chinian (13.5% abv): 50% each Syrah and Grenache (organic) with 'short maceration' and run-off juice, 6 months in vats. Good substance and oily red fruity texture / flavour with zesty finish. €9.60-€11 France. US $15. CHF 17.50 Switzerland.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>L'Estabel</b> Fulcrand Cabanon 2022, Languedoc Cabrières (13% abv): 50% Cinsault, 40% Grenache and 10% Syrah; juice run off after 4 hours maceration then cool-fermented; left in vats on the fine lees until bottling. Enticingly juicy fruity rosé with fresh acidity and textured mouthfeel too. Very good value. €7.90 France. €10 Germany. £10 UK. Also: Belgium, Canada.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château L'Euzière</b> Mon Ami Pierrot 2022, Pic Saint-Loup: Grenache, Syrah & Cinsault; pressed after 6 hours' skin contact, lees-stirring before bottling. Yeast-lees notes and zippy texture, very fresh finish; was a bit closed up at the time but promising. Dear though: €15 France.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château Guilhem</b> Vignes du Levant 2022, Malepère (13% abv): <i>Saignée</i> 50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Franc. Tasty rosé mixing nice crisp bite with ripe red fruit flavours; good with rich food too e.g. local cassoulet (below). €12-€13 France, Belgium and Germany. 139kr Denmark.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq81yHgmRJ7ZNoY8gXSvNQE3qJrwcC_kIee2gsJyvZ2-an-a__9JvK4LWfWbB08z5bkkBJ6TcHodvKFMsEip5HHIAeQYq7cFbNLwDnAwVmWgz-D3yJIsd16ti1vx6dM8-ewJeUdE56XGncW-QduDkqh-c_XlmIeVXaW8imHBgPXMHTd1shKWH5maXuBKo/s4160/IMG_20230502_210131.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq81yHgmRJ7ZNoY8gXSvNQE3qJrwcC_kIee2gsJyvZ2-an-a__9JvK4LWfWbB08z5bkkBJ6TcHodvKFMsEip5HHIAeQYq7cFbNLwDnAwVmWgz-D3yJIsd16ti1vx6dM8-ewJeUdE56XGncW-QduDkqh-c_XlmIeVXaW8imHBgPXMHTd1shKWH5maXuBKo/w640-h480/IMG_20230502_210131.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Virgile Joly</b> Saturne 2022, Languedoc Saint-Saturnin (13.5% abv): 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 15% Cinsault and 15% Mourvèdre (organic); stored 8 months in vats. Successful mix of zesty 'chalky' mouthfeel with elegant rose petal and red fruit aromas and flavours; very nice rosé. €12.50 France. £10-£13 UK. Also: Germany, Poland, Czechia.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château Lancyre</b> D'Ici On Voit La Mer 2022, Pic Saint-Loup (13.5% abv): Free-run must 50-50 Grenache-Syrah (organic); stored 3 months in vat with lees-stirring. Edgier style of rosé with lifted aromatics, roses and red fruits, zesty and intense finish. €12 France, €13-€15 Belgium, 140-160KR Denmark, CHF 10 Switzerland. US importer: Hand Picked Selections. Also: Germany, Austria.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château de Lastours</b> Grand Vin 2022, Languedoc (13.5% abv): Grenache, Cinsault and Vermentino (organic): First-pressed juice, 4 months on fine lees before bottling. More Provence than Roussillon in style, well made with tight zesty mouthfeel, subtle depth with lingering rose petal and almond notes. €15 France. £14-£16 UK. €14-€15 Netherlands and Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine La Linquière</b> Fleur de Lin 2022, Saint-Chinian (13.5% abv): <i>Saignée</i> of mostly Grenache with Syrah, 3 months in oak casks on the lees. Lively Provencesque style rosé with yeast-lees intensity and fresh finish. €10.50 France and Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine La Louvière</b> Le Marquis 2022, Malepère (12.5% abv): Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cinsault, Malbec (organic). Appealingly fruity and crisp with rounded vs zesty finish. Quirky kinky labels too. €9.50 France and Germany. €12.30 Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Le Nouveau Monde</b> Un Monde en Rose 2022, Languedoc: Mostly Grenache (organic). Aromatic and zingy, subtle rose petal and red fruits, tasty finish. €13-€14 France. CHF16 Switzerland. €14 Germany.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château Rouquette-sur-Mer</b> Cuvée Adagio 2021, La Clape (13.5% abv): Grenache and Syrah. Really deep colour, rich and full-on fruit and texture, rounded fruity finish; seems to have benefitted from that extra year in bottle. £10 UK (Wine Society). CA $26. 2022: €10-€12 France, Belgium, Germany. €14.50 Austria.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifUbGqrKhY8WawRS-7ruqBkdMrilFT-N6tBacvzmVtXInnSOWxRiT8sZyg64o77lQd7EAghOQhweANskvIIg52RNRBBe9I7-gX7Ksyav7U3vBAhs409jVDScXikoaEjghMJ8b4wSQRCNfLmvQho2_Ra4X6-Wr6erWIsLaFGMbf7mXWCi_veA_D7eN1vj4/s3971/IMG_20230818_183917.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3971" data-original-width="1641" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifUbGqrKhY8WawRS-7ruqBkdMrilFT-N6tBacvzmVtXInnSOWxRiT8sZyg64o77lQd7EAghOQhweANskvIIg52RNRBBe9I7-gX7Ksyav7U3vBAhs409jVDScXikoaEjghMJ8b4wSQRCNfLmvQho2_Ra4X6-Wr6erWIsLaFGMbf7mXWCi_veA_D7eN1vj4/w165-h400/IMG_20230818_183917.jpg" width="165" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château Sainte Eulalie</b> Printemps d'Eulalie 2022, Minervois (13.5% abv): 25% each Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre; free-run and pressed juice. Nice mix of aromatic almond-edged red fruits, yeast-lees notes, crispness and quite weighty texture. Good foodie rosé (e.g. Polish pierogi stuffed with mushrooms with garlic mushroom and paprika sauce, or smoked salmon). €7.30 France. £8.75 UK (Wine Society). US $15-$17.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Vignerons d'Alignan-Neffiès</b> Buffe Vent 2022, Languedoc (12.5% abv): Syrah and Grenache. Clean and zingy with gentle red fruits and roses, nice fresh finish. Modest price too: €6.90 cellar door. Also: Belgium and UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-75472816246490659772023-08-14T17:48:00.000+01:002023-08-14T17:48:23.102+01:00New Zealand: Syrah, Cabernets, Malbec and Merlot.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQikabL_jEQVfG3oCwfR8VcVn9p5b-8rj0C0uGgskLG5xip1Z_zf7jibYcDrTYL_hmsrevTmT9eY2ye3Khjinzn04mloK53hZXh3ZJUDgUW9JFstJGQVpRTvO5PXAI64Xe6jlvBWOxR_ylwtfNoK7l4EY3nlVB9t3b1TB9VzSE-228DihABemFRKaS3WE/s2480/Credit.NZW.Inc.Craggy.Range.(Syrah).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1654" data-original-width="2480" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQikabL_jEQVfG3oCwfR8VcVn9p5b-8rj0C0uGgskLG5xip1Z_zf7jibYcDrTYL_hmsrevTmT9eY2ye3Khjinzn04mloK53hZXh3ZJUDgUW9JFstJGQVpRTvO5PXAI64Xe6jlvBWOxR_ylwtfNoK7l4EY3nlVB9t3b1TB9VzSE-228DihABemFRKaS3WE/w640-h426/Credit.NZW.Inc.Craggy.Range.(Syrah).jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">New Zealand Wine Inc. Craggy Range Syrah.</div><div style="text-align: center;">From <a href="https://www.nzwine.com/" target="_blank">www.nzwine.com</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Syrah isn't the newcomer to New Zealand's vineyards that I imagined it might be, with 'a long history dating back to the mid-1800s.' Most of this seductive variety is planted in Hawke's Bay region, a vast cove on the east coast of North Island and one of NZ's sunniest spots; followed by the Auckland / Waiheke Island area in the north with its warm seaside climate. But, at 350 and 50 hectares of Syrah plantings respectively, the wines are of niche interest even if very promising.<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">As a quick although admittedly facile comparison, nearest winemaking neighbour Australia has 40,000 ha of Syrah. Merlot is the dominant red grape in both places mentioned above, with the other southwestern French varieties also making their mark at certain wineries there: Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon and Malbec. Here's half-a-dozen diverse reds tasted and rated in Dublin a few months ago.<span><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil29O8yPH7tait6vgvr9tKtqeGUEnSND1FJsHme8CzX9DBoMrGAPIcg21fjTBWWSboRyZzSK6CNt4lNHk8X8NZM1p6EcQiQZAMU2MGeDO7jnGeOktcWncE_MqoXXEZonoszOiKC49lgPJ9AYvGi26Ao0sg0FUVRcfLgBhCg0kzWcNifz6aKOrXrDlHmYU/s2000/Credit.NZW.Inc.Trinity.Hill.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1312" data-original-width="2000" height="327" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil29O8yPH7tait6vgvr9tKtqeGUEnSND1FJsHme8CzX9DBoMrGAPIcg21fjTBWWSboRyZzSK6CNt4lNHk8X8NZM1p6EcQiQZAMU2MGeDO7jnGeOktcWncE_MqoXXEZonoszOiKC49lgPJ9AYvGi26Ao0sg0FUVRcfLgBhCg0kzWcNifz6aKOrXrDlHmYU/w640-h420/Credit.NZW.Inc.Trinity.Hill.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">NZ Wine Inc. Trinity Hill.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Syrah</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Hawke's Bay:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Trinity Hill</b> Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2020 (13% abv): Gimblett Gravels is one of five subzones located in the middle of the bay a little inland, which is formed by rivers, gravel beds and stony terraces. This tasty restrained yet generous Syrah had a small amount of Viognier skins added to the must, and was aged for 14 months in 5000 litre casks. Not showing its age particularly, enticing ripe black cherry fruit with well-integrated oak tones, quite weighty rich and concentrated with firm gritty tannins; in the end, rounded mouthfeel though thanks to light toast notes and lingering ripe spicy fruit. Very nice. Liberty Wines Dublin & London. £25 UK. €29-€35 Ireland. $40 NZ and US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Smith & Sheth</b> CRU Heretaunga Syrah 2019 (13.5% abv): Heretaunga is Maori for Hawke's Bay. 'The grapes are sourced from private growers as well as Smith & Sheth own estates (Bridge Pa, Omahu and Mangatahi). Maturation: 14 months in French barriques.' Structured wine with trademark black cherry fruit and subtle oak tones, attractive textured tannins on the still closed up finish; quite fine Syrah. €37 Ireland (Curious Wines). £27-£33 UK (image from <a href="https://www.louislatour.co.uk" target="_blank">louislatour.co.uk</a>). $32-$40 US. $40 NZ. Kr280 Sweden.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMIWXWHAbB6KDVtm2O5UbQDjldhI-NHveseIAgCO_BoLfVqfB7AGUsW4LAPqnwpf_YWoN8glegPHoZf_hEt-FH7MnNQPo9sMqm584whL2oMpfuHOpeyhrcIQs8I7uawkuZWYc_icA58eUos9HKZLBjQmaibfzgVnhTm4PXpQ4zZmx26x9e5ZaUw-Y8CMg/s2211/Smith%20and%20Sheth_CRU%20Heretaunga%20Syrah%20NV.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="617" data-original-width="2211" height="138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMIWXWHAbB6KDVtm2O5UbQDjldhI-NHveseIAgCO_BoLfVqfB7AGUsW4LAPqnwpf_YWoN8glegPHoZf_hEt-FH7MnNQPo9sMqm584whL2oMpfuHOpeyhrcIQs8I7uawkuZWYc_icA58eUos9HKZLBjQmaibfzgVnhTm4PXpQ4zZmx26x9e5ZaUw-Y8CMg/w640-h178/Smith%20and%20Sheth_CRU%20Heretaunga%20Syrah%20NV.png" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Waiheke Island:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Man O'War</b> Dreadnought Syrah 2018 (14% abv): Found just to the east of Auckland, this island's climate is described as 'warm, dry and maritime.' Sourced from 'steep hillside vineyards' and with '22 months in barrel.' Maturing colour and nose, still quite toasty though and a tad extracted but there's dark spicy fruit in there with attractive savoury flavoured finish; pretty big wine in comparison with good substance, even if a touch clumsy. €40 Ireland (O'Briens). £34-£42 UK. $55 NZ.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Marlborough:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Giesen</b> Clayvin Vineyard Syrah 2021 (14% abv): With clay and gravel soils, this high-density north-facing vineyard in the Southern Valleys contains a mere 1 ha of certified-organic Syrah. 'Matured in new and used 225L French oak for two winters before racking and blending.' Medium-purple colour, lightly spicy oak mingles with peppery black fruits, the oak was a little obvious and it was quite firmly textured, but powerful and concentrated too with ripe fruit flavours then lingering coconut and vanilla notes; still young, promising more. Bibendum Wine €39 Ireland. $41-$45 Aus. $50-$55 NZ.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Other good Syrah-producing estates include Craggy Range (photo top), Te Mata and Esk Valley.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Other reds</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Both from Hawke's Bay:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Smith & Sheth</b> CRU Heretaunga Cabernet Franc 2020 (14% abv): Clay and gravel soils, 'old vine Cabernet Franc from the Fratelli Vineyards in the Bridge Pa subregion, traditionally fermented on skins and aged in French oak barriques.' Lightly herby red fruits, spicy and ripe though while structured and powerful with fresh acidity, quite tight mouthfeel to finish but offering good substance and nice tangy red fruit characters. $38-$40 US. $37-$40 NZ.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu0jTTXM25hXUM76yo8zCVkbEJ4RdGWjsWZcylsjTpYnc8-5egYGnz6HGh97WgRGqdLmRM7OEb-Qodnl0hC3i3dotCK9-TWa7RW-T4VfDX-Pq8AdrSuukWbvLqx6GCW7SV3TaQnCdchEqm8x3N5ccDKjOBZTrZC1uB3qNzQG_TOYBHCngfof1go8Zh2Ls/s2400/Image1-KAMCR20B.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="579" data-original-width="2400" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu0jTTXM25hXUM76yo8zCVkbEJ4RdGWjsWZcylsjTpYnc8-5egYGnz6HGh97WgRGqdLmRM7OEb-Qodnl0hC3i3dotCK9-TWa7RW-T4VfDX-Pq8AdrSuukWbvLqx6GCW7SV3TaQnCdchEqm8x3N5ccDKjOBZTrZC1uB3qNzQG_TOYBHCngfof1go8Zh2Ls/w640-h154/Image1-KAMCR20B.png" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Esk Valley</b> Artisanal Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2020 (14% abv): Vineyards planted in deep stony soils: 55% Malbec, 28% Cabernet, 17% Merlot. 'Esk Valley's first Malbec based wine from Gimblett Gravels. The individual parcels were pressed to French oak barrels and aged for 18 months.' Deep colour, leafy vs ripe nose, fairly intense and concentrated with firm structured palate, ripe berry and liquorice notes too mixing with spicy red pepper, full-bodied and powerful, tannins are noticeable but well-textured; will improve, good value. €20 Ireland (Barry & Fitzwilliam). $20-$25 NZ and US. £16-£20 UK (bottle shot from <a href="https://www.hatchmansfield.com" target="_blank">hatchmansfield.com</a>).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-72968436780387210842023-08-09T16:36:00.007+01:002023-12-06T17:50:06.955+00:00Roussillon: Maury focus - red and fortified wines.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5zN2AuR1gxsKi7cThwKMeZkvv5uxOAQGnvkIEJaRim7MaWcCc_9tR-kmSlyZnNDPM8VIT4bDILBTWy-h98lQt96MArwZ0uEx8g2cdFKCnd6Uzy_PENXwcLw2kjtP_TNPe8yUrJnBOE4NbLjM-F7OsvDReT5CrurhaRfML_WuwXIVuQmg-bC-WO1zjTh0/s1080/village-AOP-Maury-website.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="1080" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5zN2AuR1gxsKi7cThwKMeZkvv5uxOAQGnvkIEJaRim7MaWcCc_9tR-kmSlyZnNDPM8VIT4bDILBTWy-h98lQt96MArwZ0uEx8g2cdFKCnd6Uzy_PENXwcLw2kjtP_TNPe8yUrJnBOE4NbLjM-F7OsvDReT5CrurhaRfML_WuwXIVuQmg-bC-WO1zjTh0/w640-h400/village-AOP-Maury-website.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Maury vineyards: <a href="https://maury-aop.fr/" style="text-align: left;" target="_blank">Maury-aop.fr</a> via <a href="https://uk.winesofroussillon.com/2023/06/13/in-focus-maury/" style="text-align: left;" target="_blank">uk.winesofroussillon.com</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">There's no shortage of awesome chunky vineyard vistas like in the photo above around the town of <b>Maury</b>, dramatically and strategically positioned in the (west-) centre of the Agly Valley in the northern Roussillon, piled up against the Corbières hills facing north, down towards the Pyrenees to the southwest and Spain/Catalonia in the sun-kissed distance to the south.<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">I should add arid to awesome chunky vineyards, since there's been unprecedented drought in the Roussillon over the past year especially in the Agly Valley apparently. Generally, it's been another very hot summer in the region with little rain following a conspicuously unrainy winter and spring. The dire situation isn't a new phenomenon, and vintages 21 and 22 will also have been affected depending on location, but it's got worse by all accounts.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Up until the 2011 vintage, all wines labelled as Maury appellation were sweet and fortified resembling the various different styles of Port. Since then, winemakers have been able to produce Maury Sec (dry) red wines that are also based on a majority of Grenache noir (60% to 80% according to the slightly control-freakish rules). Historically, you are allowed to use up to 100% Grenache to make the region's traditional Vin Doux Naturel wines (VDN), depending on the style, as well as the two 'white' sibling varieties Grenache blanc and gris for Maury blanc doux (there's no dry white Maury).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">This report also includes producers and their wines from the neighbouring villages of <b>Saint-Paul de Fenouillet</b>, <b>Rasiguères </b>and (the west side of) <b>Tautavel</b>, which lie within the Maury appellation catchment area. Some of the wines featured are labelled as Côtes du Roussillon Villages or Côtes Catalanes (IGP) instead because of the particular style made or varietal blend, which don't conform to Maury regulations, deliberately or not...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0xygYyN6pO8kweEWPnBYsX2NBaf1Qbl5zIwa5cSAGIewq0BBhbXjY07aztbQ6wEy-5N3LoKr4_Z5a0gVLeuPS7NXJQ6Uu9oxo4G5Y69JcG0Kvy-vEnI7JCJUlZ776qNWxYGyOorO2KY3k8VGSIcUqYhuwoncyShBVbHXFY4W7w20PttkDHIw9KgYybTY/s3954/original_8d514d50-4a42-4cd6-934b-058787a11492_IMG_20230504_110904.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2108" data-original-width="3954" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0xygYyN6pO8kweEWPnBYsX2NBaf1Qbl5zIwa5cSAGIewq0BBhbXjY07aztbQ6wEy-5N3LoKr4_Z5a0gVLeuPS7NXJQ6Uu9oxo4G5Y69JcG0Kvy-vEnI7JCJUlZ776qNWxYGyOorO2KY3k8VGSIcUqYhuwoncyShBVbHXFY4W7w20PttkDHIw9KgYybTY/w640-h342/original_8d514d50-4a42-4cd6-934b-058787a11492_IMG_20230504_110904.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span>Four sumptuous Maury Secs revealed on the tasting table.</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Kicking off then with my favourite <b>Maury sec</b> reds tasted on a Roussillon trip back in May.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Jeff Carrel</b> Grenache under my skin 2021 (15.5% abv): Jeff Carrel's winery is based to the north in the Corbières, where his team produces a wide range of wines (and beer) sourced from different growers in the south and beyond (Alsace, Burgundy). 80% Grenache (60+ year-old bush vines) & 20% Syrah (15+ years), low yielding on schist soils. Long maceration on skins, blending of free-run juice followed by storage in tank on fine lees. Rich aromatic dark fruit nose, spicy fruity palate with textured chalky tannins; very nice full-on red. €12 France. £15-£16 UK. CA $35. €12.50-€13.50 Netherlands, Belgium, Italy, Germany, Switzerland. 114 Zl Poland.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Mas de Lavail</b> Âme-Auriol 2021: The Batlle family acquired this leading estate in 1999, located a few kilometres to the east of Maury off the main road to Estagel. 70% Grenache noir, 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah (all organic) grown on clay and limestone. Five-week maceration and matured in stainless tanks. Personally, I preferred this style to their other Maury sec 2021 'Ego' (bit too oaky). Concentrated and chunky with dark fruit, powerful and structured with fine tannins. Should improve nicely in bottle for a few years. €14 France. 120 DKK Denmark. €15-€17 Netherlands. £17 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine La Toupie</b> Sur 1 Fil Rouge 2021 (15% abv): I've been following Jérôme Collas' progress for nearly ten years - La Toupie was established in 2012 - which groups together 12 hectares of old vines in and around Maury. 72% Grenache noir (50+ years, black schist north-facing slope), 18% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah make up this stylish wine. One month's maceration, then ageing in vat for the Grenache and the Mourvèdre and Syrah in 400 litre casks. Subtle oak, well made and concentrated with fresh firm and chalky mouthfeel, a little closed up and restrained in style but very promising. €15.50 France. £18 UK. €32 Finland. €15-€16 Belgium. About $23.50 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIq0GwEg76kSRI4-EGYUO-GHHn63_GrqVDr6Dnvcv_KadvZMZnj0_0bbhObjIP0kknh6Ef07JmzAqZHv_0OaVVeK5ujlEipQF8JiQXfPLPAqDvHHyzFdpcLp0XKkjETcdSutdyKEwG5_gIaNkJ_fXKQccElYnDIKh1Ls7HR63zYSzkW0Cjq8_T8AHb0ig/s1017/maury-sec-rouge-1.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="290" data-original-width="1017" height="142" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIq0GwEg76kSRI4-EGYUO-GHHn63_GrqVDr6Dnvcv_KadvZMZnj0_0bbhObjIP0kknh6Ef07JmzAqZHv_0OaVVeK5ujlEipQF8JiQXfPLPAqDvHHyzFdpcLp0XKkjETcdSutdyKEwG5_gIaNkJ_fXKQccElYnDIKh1Ls7HR63zYSzkW0Cjq8_T8AHb0ig/w640-h182/maury-sec-rouge-1.png" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Mas de la Devèze</b> Maury sec 2020: Nathalie and Simon Hugues took over this property in 2012 too, and have since consolidated the vineyards into 30 hectares by buying up some neighbouring blocks and new plantations. The Mas is located in the wilds between Tautavel and Maury. 65% Grenache noir, 27% Syrah, 8% Mourvèdre from plots with marl and schist soils. Pre-fermentation soak for 36 hours, at least one year's ageing in 300 and 400 litre casks. Delicious ripe black fruit cocktail, firm palate but with well-textured chalky tannins, lovely savoury-flavoured finish. €16-€17 France and Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Maury VDNs</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Both of the esoteric sweet fortified reds below were matched with dessert as part of a very special menu created by chef Franck Séguret at the well-known restaurant <b>Le Clos des Lys</b>, on the outskirts of Perpignan. A gorgeous <i>Coulant Chocolat</i> served with <i>Grand Cru</i> chocolate (perhaps one of the best dark chocs I've ever tried, which is made locally for the restaurant) and orange sorbet (below). Both went well with it, the Cuvée Centenaire perhaps having the edge...</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFz9ePjslZGW8OdoSGvnt9pTnixY4B9QDdE8GPThl7LpXsclyEKrhKuTYMMMHCn3Ok1M184E0zHkg6lGrZo9t-oU_Xm1QOt9BNtN7tuCKkrMdNnopMnKuh5CIqb1SRN6YcUMlUFKOILxV0DiJAP7yU8RTlCmVAsVYt9yXUhRmZ_9TUjbQ9wkV4YV5Qj9A/s3530/original_285d78b1-8c6a-4659-86b1-9743a3dc3295_IMG_20230505_221406.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3530" data-original-width="3120" height="565" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFz9ePjslZGW8OdoSGvnt9pTnixY4B9QDdE8GPThl7LpXsclyEKrhKuTYMMMHCn3Ok1M184E0zHkg6lGrZo9t-oU_Xm1QOt9BNtN7tuCKkrMdNnopMnKuh5CIqb1SRN6YcUMlUFKOILxV0DiJAP7yU8RTlCmVAsVYt9yXUhRmZ_9TUjbQ9wkV4YV5Qj9A/w566-h640/original_285d78b1-8c6a-4659-86b1-9743a3dc3295_IMG_20230505_221406.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><b><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div>Vignerons de Maury</b> Tuilé Cuvée du Centenaire (16% abv, 107 g/l residual sugar): 100% Grenache noir, this limited-edition 'millennium' blend (<i>tuilé </i>is a cask-aged 'oxidative' style) was crafted from a quarter share each of four vintages - 1970, 1980, 1990 and 2000 - aged for many years in old 60 hectolitre tuns (i.e. pretty large) before blending and settling in smaller casks. Resembled a very old red Madeira with exotic caramelised dried red fruit notes while complex quirky and oxidised at the same time, but still quite fresh and lively on the palate. Delicious, bargain too: €26.10 cellar door.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Mas Amiel</b> 1969 (16% abv): Amiel is a magnificently set estate sprawling across undulating slopes on the Corbières side of the main road into Maury from the east, which is famous for its collection of old vintage and time-dated Maury VDNs. Made from Grenache noir (south-facing vines) with 5% each of Carignan and Macabeu, the final blend was stored for one year in demijohns left outside then transferred into large casks for 44 years until bottling. Super deep colour, very rich fruit cake notes, still has a touch of tannic grip on its very meaty flavoured finish. Wow although probably isn't going to get much better at this stage. Estimated price (if you can find it): £160 UK, €130-€170 France, $150-$250 US, SG $290.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEVGWm5f3BuOrsKflAhcRz1u5Z4AF-z8zxnHdAvl-8D8ks4vK0DV62VvGmqac7D1mTq3fH1zu7EoHIvk5BsuVrU2b4Gm9ky_d_ArwFlqK-D8CX4ruRHM9CnUDXJdZO0eKoA7ko1cjSH5zm9mCM9vG42WF1sm9jGpnuyQ5ufMhTwpp1-fuVZep6KIFEoSk/s1673/maury-tuile-cuvee-du-centenaire.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="757" data-original-width="1673" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEVGWm5f3BuOrsKflAhcRz1u5Z4AF-z8zxnHdAvl-8D8ks4vK0DV62VvGmqac7D1mTq3fH1zu7EoHIvk5BsuVrU2b4Gm9ky_d_ArwFlqK-D8CX4ruRHM9CnUDXJdZO0eKoA7ko1cjSH5zm9mCM9vG42WF1sm9jGpnuyQ5ufMhTwpp1-fuVZep6KIFEoSk/w640-h290/maury-tuile-cuvee-du-centenaire.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine La Toupie</b> Au Gré d'Eole, Maury Grenat 2022: 100% Grenache noir (50+ year-old parcel), 90 g/l residual sugar. Stored 6 months in tank and bottle before bottling. <i>Grenat</i> is the opposite of <i>Tuilé</i> in terms of Maury VDN ageing, being an early-bottled 'vintage' style (or sometimes like LBV). This one had just been when I tried it, but it wasn't too fiery/spirity with lashings of pure kirsch fruit aromas and flavours. €17 cellar door.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Mas de Lavail</b> Expression Grenat 2021: 100% Grenache noir, matured for 12 months 'in a reductive environment' (excluding oxygen) then bottled. Rounder more textured style but still fruity with slightly more savoury aftertaste. €15 France. £20 UK. €19 Ireland.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Côtes du Roussillon Villages and Côtes Catalanes reds</b>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Winegrowers and co-op cellars in Maury, Saint-Paul de Fenouillet, Rasiguères and neighbouring areas.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd7uEwoq1bMZpRJqI9Vm90XBi1wLG_IOiMoOTb07xVnUTjuhG3NahBo4jCG3qCfi_cP0MbWhROeHt1yndj90SNXP4gMV3Xl8madSTB0r4zzQed5JTvUBP0vri_3CaZkRtn-z-5hr9ByeXjQNhWsYaAmkqRw6pdYR16F7C9ChsgeREasJapGxMg8rjfKcQ/s546/Toupie.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="346" data-original-width="546" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd7uEwoq1bMZpRJqI9Vm90XBi1wLG_IOiMoOTb07xVnUTjuhG3NahBo4jCG3qCfi_cP0MbWhROeHt1yndj90SNXP4gMV3Xl8madSTB0r4zzQed5JTvUBP0vri_3CaZkRtn-z-5hr9ByeXjQNhWsYaAmkqRw6pdYR16F7C9ChsgeREasJapGxMg8rjfKcQ/w400-h254/Toupie.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine La Toupie</b> PHI Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2019 (15% abv): As in the Greek symbol (see label). This limited-edition (and rather dear) red is Syrah (62%) and Grenache (38%) from schist hillsides facing northeast close to Maury, beneath the famous landmark Château Quéribus. 'Very old' Syrah from La Coume Mijane block and Grenache from La Coume d'en Reynaud. The Syrah was fermented and aged in a new open-top 400 litre barrel for 12 months, and the Grenache in a small egg-shaped vat, which 'promotes convection currents keeping the fine lees in suspension.' Now you know. Rich and powerful red with lovely supple tannins, dark and spicy fruit flavours underlined by oak texture. €38 cellar door.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Les Vignerons de Trémoine</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"> This relatively small and successful co-op winery based in Rasiguères (just south of Maury) brings together 70 winegrowers farming almost 500 hectares of vines in Rasiguères, Planèzes, Lansac and Cassagnes. Their first cellar was founded in 1919.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Capitelles Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2022 'Sans Sulfites': This unoaked red is a 60-40 Syrah-Grenache blend grown on granite based soils. Lovely pure-fruited Syrah-led style with black cherry, wild herbs and spice. Bargain at €8 cellar door.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjJYtMwIBHMwpm44HsRivS7HR2BTgghNsMXxkHrRL-_bjJ9Kwg8Ek5oPRluT9vBeueEy0wkZw5O1iImtIPXc2jPJbkYo7ULXr5PPwYseJWFoygUv3d_FWYeOffJSms9_6b34lQfvZH-q48G9Z3IiUSIKMMbpMKnzV7uuk2c_GfvJEoDde1JadcJejcqSk/s1650/capitelles-2022-sans-sulfites.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="438" data-original-width="1650" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjJYtMwIBHMwpm44HsRivS7HR2BTgghNsMXxkHrRL-_bjJ9Kwg8Ek5oPRluT9vBeueEy0wkZw5O1iImtIPXc2jPJbkYo7ULXr5PPwYseJWFoygUv3d_FWYeOffJSms9_6b34lQfvZH-q48G9Z3IiUSIKMMbpMKnzV7uuk2c_GfvJEoDde1JadcJejcqSk/w640-h170/capitelles-2022-sans-sulfites.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Le Barral de Trémoine, Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2020: 50% Carignan, 40% Syrah, 10% Grenache from eight selected blocks, aged in new oak barrels. It was quite oaky but delivers plenty of lively fruit and oomph to finish; more of a foodie red. 2020 no longer available in France, but a magnum of the 2019 is €53.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Mas Karolina</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Established twenty years ago by previously travelling winemaker Caroline Bonville, the organic vineyards (some certified, some in conversion) are located in Maury (red marl soils), Rasiguères (schist) and Lesquerde (granitic). Caroline makes quite a wide range including Côtes Catalanes red, white and rosé; Côtes du Roussillon Villages and Maury and Muscat VDNs.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Côtes Catalanes rouge 2022: Grenache noir (50%), Carignan (30%) and Syrah (20%), all 30 to 40 years old. Fermented and kept in concrete vats until bottling. Aromatic cherry fruit with a hint of tannin adding some softish texture, very nice easy-going red. €12.50 cellar door. Outside of France, MK wines are/have been sold in Germany, Belgium, UK (£12.99), Italy, Estonia, Lithuania, Netherlands (€15), Luxembourg (€13), USA ($18) and Canada ($26).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjATcMlLE-byubK7o3DkPFoh4g6xmZiAcANSpBVHZJ92PYNl-SCvn6DqVDdZqNT9wm3Tg23PPTA0lyOe4HnfVjOOs0qUeDT5hJydgq5bXwUavsQBxQW8lY9LnoI0Pzp3khujzkKp2IvcnJDjwM2EjT3Bob34uThQWlhSaiSd5Yue7H7fbXgom-X4WP3Ujg/s1115/Karo%20etc.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1115" data-original-width="1031" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjATcMlLE-byubK7o3DkPFoh4g6xmZiAcANSpBVHZJ92PYNl-SCvn6DqVDdZqNT9wm3Tg23PPTA0lyOe4HnfVjOOs0qUeDT5hJydgq5bXwUavsQBxQW8lY9LnoI0Pzp3khujzkKp2IvcnJDjwM2EjT3Bob34uThQWlhSaiSd5Yue7H7fbXgom-X4WP3Ujg/w370-h400/Karo%20etc.jpg" width="370" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Lots more about the Maury area, its wines and who makes them can be found in my <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2021/11/roussillon-french-catalonia-wine-book.html" target="_blank">Roussillon book</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Other recent Roussillon stuff: <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/11/roussillon-north-continued.html" target="_blank">the north continued</a>, <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/11/roussillon-les-aspres-centre-and-beyond.html" target="_blank">the centre & Les Aspres</a>, <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/12/roussillon-south.html" target="_blank">the south</a> and <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/08/rose-languedoc-vs-roussillon.html" target="_blank">rosé</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-45708418156587229382023-07-31T18:06:00.002+01:002023-07-31T20:26:25.037+01:00New Zealand Pinot Noir Part 2: Marlborough.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilai1NY6Q1SynHH9wgJXOKZntUxFMQTEe_4e9lZbGBH2iopKEMRBJy6brT082wb8KltnuDt_FFRHziInvZYhN1RILldvrWbORDjXa6KDDlpI-OH0daWg8_hajaRXSMXuZLYVKX5dGtdfnV56vkl3D3KF9NH8R3foKeQXT_MTplU6soXG_hmSSpdkgJHmo/s4000/Credit.NZW.Inc.Yealands.Estate_8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2659" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilai1NY6Q1SynHH9wgJXOKZntUxFMQTEe_4e9lZbGBH2iopKEMRBJy6brT082wb8KltnuDt_FFRHziInvZYhN1RILldvrWbORDjXa6KDDlpI-OH0daWg8_hajaRXSMXuZLYVKX5dGtdfnV56vkl3D3KF9NH8R3foKeQXT_MTplU6soXG_hmSSpdkgJHmo/w400-h266/Credit.NZW.Inc.Yealands.Estate_8.jpg" title="Credit.NZW.Inc.Yealands.Estate_8" width="500" /></a></div><span><div style="text-align: center;">NZW Inc. Yealands.Estate from <a href="https://www.nzwine.com" target="_blank">www.nzwine.com</a></div></span><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Marlborough region, which occupies a large part of South Island's northeast coast inland from Cloudy Bay, has 'almost 30,000 hectares of vines (2/3 of the national total),' and a staggering 80% of this is dedicated to Sauvignon Blanc. Thankfully, the second most important grape is Pinot Noir at 2733 ha, half of all plantings of this variety in NZ. There are three subregions: Southern Valleys (composed of the Omaka, Fairhall, Brancott, Ben Morvan and Waihopai Valleys), Wairau Valley and Awatere Valley. Here's a dozen tasty Marlborough Pinots.<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Babich </b>Black Label Pinot Noir 2021, Waihopai and Wairau (13% abv): 6 months in barrel. Fairly intense and youthful still, delicate quite tight finish yet showing delicious sweet / savoury fruit and subtle concentration. Lovely Pinot. €33-€34 (Solera Wine Merchants, The Corkscrew, Baggot Street Wines - Dublin). UK £22. Aus $30.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZTvM3a3e90eSAYN5MWOECvE6S-QfuNNNO6Rni-RzbCmkD6f13HFl8L8y0EAcbc2VMgS0J--RfdhRDBG_UWUd8dt1KOtJc_qKmFdF2b2xJtTMTCLx40wIvCkLckdHlbbaQ7KPJGUWT4qsz5wNbU-HfB9ucJFBtNRYtEM5DjWCfHqiBrRiLoDSpohBeFpE/s3391/Babich-Family-Estates-Organic-Pinot-Noir-NV_web.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="980" data-original-width="3391" height="145" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZTvM3a3e90eSAYN5MWOECvE6S-QfuNNNO6Rni-RzbCmkD6f13HFl8L8y0EAcbc2VMgS0J--RfdhRDBG_UWUd8dt1KOtJc_qKmFdF2b2xJtTMTCLx40wIvCkLckdHlbbaQ7KPJGUWT4qsz5wNbU-HfB9ucJFBtNRYtEM5DjWCfHqiBrRiLoDSpohBeFpE/w640-h185/Babich-Family-Estates-Organic-Pinot-Noir-NV_web.png" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Babich </b>Family Estates Organic Pinot Noir 2019, Wairau Valley (14% abv): They have a 50 hectare organic vineyard, one of the largest in New Zealand. 10 months in barriques. Enticing sweet / savoury fruit nose, smooth mature palate while still structured and quite fresh, lingering weight vs elegance; another delicious Pinot. Ireland €40. NZ $35-$40. Aus $30. SG $72.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Caythorpe</b> Family Estate Pinot Noir 2020, Central Wairau (13.5% abv): Aged 11 months in new and seasoned French oak. Underlined by a little structure and fresh acidity while offering perfumed sweet / savoury fruit, quite elegant and long; good wine. €26.50 (The Irish Cellar). NZ $25. UK £16.50-£19. US $25-$27. Germany €16.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV08zC4V8jVjh0_Vmi7c_ss4taoUHz6l2vl2846o87pYMHCq4LKGc7RPvHPG7EX8bqKDwwmlYYEoyQiu_uEXeDjXdzoN-F6SGVrKtuKCmAM_iD1xT1-nlrbOU5QF2Dk7T3fYseIBo8v_utNjR4LDlzm3YS8gRddLLZq5B8p8C2P0U5KNlD5PIpWi7qguU/s1061/caythorpe-pinot-noir-nv_360x.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="301" data-original-width="1061" height="142" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV08zC4V8jVjh0_Vmi7c_ss4taoUHz6l2vl2846o87pYMHCq4LKGc7RPvHPG7EX8bqKDwwmlYYEoyQiu_uEXeDjXdzoN-F6SGVrKtuKCmAM_iD1xT1-nlrbOU5QF2Dk7T3fYseIBo8v_utNjR4LDlzm3YS8gRddLLZq5B8p8C2P0U5KNlD5PIpWi7qguU/w640-h182/caythorpe-pinot-noir-nv_360x.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Jules Taylor</b> Pinot Noir 2020, Southern Valleys (14% abv): Less expressive with firmer texture at first then riper fruit and smoky notes develop; good quality Pinot showing promise in a maturing yet still youthful way. €21-€26 (Curious Wines Cork). UK £20. NZ $31. US $21-$24. Poland 97zł.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Oyster Bay</b> Pinot Noir 2020 (Wairau and Awatere Valleys, 14% abv): 11 months ageing in tanks and different types of barrel. One of, if not the biggest brand(s) but it's well made with an attractive mix of fruit, sweet / savoury undertones and subtle oak, slightly structured while drinking nicely too. UK £11-£12. US $17-$20. CA $21-$23.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Hunter's </b>Pinot Noir 2021 (13.5% abv): 12 months in French oak. Lightly 'reductive' at first, developing tasty savoury fruit on the palate with subtle oak underneath, good texture and balance. Ireland (Bulmers, Wine Online) €21-€24. UK £16-£19. NZ $27-$29. CA $28. Aus $30. HK $195.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Stoneburn </b>Pinot Noir 2021, Wairau Valley (14% abv): 8 months in used French oak. Wilder edges with smoky sweet / savoury tones, quite rich and ripe then maturing meatier flavours, fairly intense lingering finish; good value Pinot. Ireland €19 (as above). UK £13-£17. US $13-$16. NZ $16-$19. Aus $22.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtSQCh_-4kyzB0moQH7XRIaUPcB7vPAgE_Mh_21meS3XscMxj3AUiYF_puLQJJ9iFq5OKX8Z2RbbnsRymHt_m8tyGh6KpNqpkk8gGU4K3_yEJIb3XKdbH8G3aK9zquhRuzk7wH8upAHxFNUTl1zGDFRWZHps-5quyTZ6u091i-k2DJEFMMnmo-YqHgCcc/s1500/Hunter's+Vineyard+-+Hunter's+Home+Block+2016.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtSQCh_-4kyzB0moQH7XRIaUPcB7vPAgE_Mh_21meS3XscMxj3AUiYF_puLQJJ9iFq5OKX8Z2RbbnsRymHt_m8tyGh6KpNqpkk8gGU4K3_yEJIb3XKdbH8G3aK9zquhRuzk7wH8upAHxFNUTl1zGDFRWZHps-5quyTZ6u091i-k2DJEFMMnmo-YqHgCcc/w640-h426/Hunter's+Vineyard+-+Hunter's+Home+Block+2016.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">From <a href="https://www.stoneburn.co.nz/" target="_blank">stoneburn.co.nz</a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>OTU </b>Estate Pinot Noir 2021, Awatere Valley (13% abv): Aged 8 months in new and used barriques. Light and fruity nose with subtle oak notes, tasty and intense mouthfeel with light grip and freshness, sweet / savoury fruit finish, although closes up a little promising more. Ireland €25 (Boutique Wines). NZ $24.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Villa Maria</b> Cellar Selection Pinot Noir 2021 (Awatere and Wairau, 13% abv): 10 months in mostly used French oak. Another big brand, this is their second tier Pinot and it's pretty good. Fairly intense aromatic nose offering typical sweet / savoury Pinot fruit notes, quite structured and meaty on the palate. Ireland €21 (Barry & Fitzwilliam). UK £14-£16. NZ $22-$26. US $20+. Aus $38-$43.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Whitehaven </b>Pinot Noir 2020 (13.5% abv): 11 months in French oak (25% new). Perfumed and juicy with savoury edges, tasty tangy mouthfeel, quite intense yet elegant too. Very nice Pinot. Ireland €23 (O'Briens). NZ $35. Germany €27.50. CA $25-$26.50. HK $199.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Wither Hills</b> Pinot Noir 2018, Wairau Valley (13.5% abv): One year in barrels. Light and mature with tasty sweet / savoury fruit, drinking very nicely yet still fresh and structured. Classic subtle style. Ireland €20-€22.50 (Comans Beverages, Wine Online, Jus de Vine). SG $40-$45. NZ $19. US $16-$22.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQqliXYA0Q6aZmw3ptVz8Ox1pjqmUE2ZTMBkBOMqM4VD4l4pFfcLAvkS14zxh_QfYPZH3x7CrPZ_cFG2KKL0sWZqcXB10SJOeWe3fJsp4svO96OrEIsCIes25rNCs-FRojvb6LHcdv-p6O1qfbRO8S3x0_cuQK1XIl_zWcdRp4NBnZgZZLwgbJvQeFc-k/s1340/40401.01_WitherHills_WHWairauValleyPinotNoir_SteamlessGlass_1800x1800.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1340" data-original-width="721" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQqliXYA0Q6aZmw3ptVz8Ox1pjqmUE2ZTMBkBOMqM4VD4l4pFfcLAvkS14zxh_QfYPZH3x7CrPZ_cFG2KKL0sWZqcXB10SJOeWe3fJsp4svO96OrEIsCIes25rNCs-FRojvb6LHcdv-p6O1qfbRO8S3x0_cuQK1XIl_zWcdRp4NBnZgZZLwgbJvQeFc-k/w344-h640/40401.01_WitherHills_WHWairauValleyPinotNoir_SteamlessGlass_1800x1800.jpg" width="344" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Nautilus </b>Southern Valleys Pinot Noir 2016 (13.5% abv): Hints of oak (aged 11 months in French barriques) and wild yeast-lees notes, plenty of intense sweet / savoury flavours and lingering fruit with nice fresh bite still despite its maturing style. Delicious. Ireland €30-€32 (Cassidy Wines, Wine Online). UK £23-£25. NZ and Aus $40-$44. CA $30-$33. SG $63. US: Winebow NY.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative; text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/06/new-zealand-pinot-noir-part-1-south.html" style="color: #660000; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">New Zealand Pinot Noir Part 1: Central Otago, North Canterbury, Nelson, Wairarapa, Hawke's Bay.</a></div><div style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative; text-align: left;"><br /></div></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-43949678949818828762023-07-03T15:55:00.002+01:002023-12-06T17:42:47.574+00:00Languedoc - Fitou: Domaines du Vent, Bertrand-Bergé, Lérys & Château de Nouvelles.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFLCpzinHq4pxiJfX0oFrcAIAglLF7pOi51qoJohTpOe-p2rOyzkX0PMVnFmAb5IhU337LHeZO3_ZjLRFD2w_rkQbvrCN-WGoBdGNLjlz6bblYP5Extmjn9-Lmd8-ZPIrW1MGBPUNepE7zdaG3wSFXf1UBaL5BCaz1P-2u4sItBDZvAoXScOMMhyJJa_M/s3324/original_7992b402-dc63-4be2-a792-8ec7ef1c2638_IMG_20230503_134538.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2958" data-original-width="3324" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFLCpzinHq4pxiJfX0oFrcAIAglLF7pOi51qoJohTpOe-p2rOyzkX0PMVnFmAb5IhU337LHeZO3_ZjLRFD2w_rkQbvrCN-WGoBdGNLjlz6bblYP5Extmjn9-Lmd8-ZPIrW1MGBPUNepE7zdaG3wSFXf1UBaL5BCaz1P-2u4sItBDZvAoXScOMMhyJJa_M/w400-h356/original_7992b402-dc63-4be2-a792-8ec7ef1c2638_IMG_20230503_134538.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Nathalie Boyer, Domaine du Vent.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The Fitou region nudges against the Corbières hills at the southern edge of the Languedoc before you cross over into the Roussillon, and is split into two parts divided by a chunk of the Corbières appellation in what might have been the middle of it (viticultural history, village politics). In simple terms, the seaside bit lies around Fitou itself and just to the north; and the hillier rockier inland bit is centred on Mont Tauch and the villages of Paziols, Tuchan and spreading north to Villeneuve les Corbières.<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Fitou is a 100% red wine area built on the Carignan, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre varieties (roughly in that order of importance). Perhaps they should consider extending the rules to include white and rosé as well, as neighbouring Corbières has done: why not really, if there's something unique about the wine-growing environment? This post features four leading wine estates (re)discovered at a recent encounter in the region, all of them making very recommendable wines.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">DOMAINE DU VENT is found in the village of Fitou and was taken over by two previously itinerant winemakers Nathalie and Benjamin Boyer as recently as 2021. They are converting the 15 hectares of vineyards lying in different spots, some elevated and some flatter land, to organic farming. The three tasty reds are only kept in vat before bottling, all were 2021 vintage and of differing styles and seriousness: 'Comme un Souffle une Caresse' (€17 cellar door) and 'Autan en Emporte' (€12) offer combinations of mostly Grenache and/or Carignan; and 'Marindes' is an easier-going Carignan and Syrah (€7.20). US: North Berkeley Imports. <a href="https://domaine-du-vent.business.site/" target="_blank">domaine-du-vent.business.site</a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFse1NAuOrmuuCpbhlHn91_sjMh7HiXLFsSHtWahHQT_VXEAWvxTa3jFOW7HI14cK-A3380NZK4-8mpwCb5MBYcRlREvR6V-vAwNH8N-ul_AJcUCC4H9bo3KvS0gDcZV2hljTgCP_mkiVLRnnj-wlD1kNI4QhyomyhUz_oai71kWHbpyITCcKENZKAcFY/s3318/IMG_20230612_195020.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3318" data-original-width="2386" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFse1NAuOrmuuCpbhlHn91_sjMh7HiXLFsSHtWahHQT_VXEAWvxTa3jFOW7HI14cK-A3380NZK4-8mpwCb5MBYcRlREvR6V-vAwNH8N-ul_AJcUCC4H9bo3KvS0gDcZV2hljTgCP_mkiVLRnnj-wlD1kNI4QhyomyhUz_oai71kWHbpyITCcKENZKAcFY/w288-h400/IMG_20230612_195020.jpg" width="288" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">DOMAINE BERTRAND-BERGÉ, in contrast, was established by Jérôme and Sabine Bertrand in 1993 in the village of Paziols, although Jérôme’s family wine-growing history goes back several generations. I discovered them in 2006 (previous reviews are <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2012/07/languedoc-fitou.html" target="_blank">HERE</a> and <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2010/07/languedoc-domaine-bertrand-berge-fitou.html" target="_blank">HERE</a>) and recently noticed that the Wine Society lists one of their reds, the lush and complex 'Origines' made from 60% Carignan and 40% Grenache (organic). The delicious hearty 2020, although now out of stock (2021 is same price, £9.95), combined weight with ripe fruit and tannins, savoury development and wild earthy hints. France €9-€12. UK £10-£15. US €21. €10 Germany. Switzerland CHF 15. Belgium €12-€13. <a href="http://www.bertrand-berge.com/" target="_blank">www.bertrand-berge.com</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx7RzufgCC00N0F866HcgyaVABxkw_TbHva5aGsWBFXlCC3voLLu7bLePZBuDt1YeRbhUrmA7ggwkuidJd-p3DX8UTFxizXK92gmITZ4vUdk8LAdLb0AOts5g4q67uVdmr1Zi3lbmSGRtBddIHErx-UlAp7OCx7EmWgxeLWvuJakvwe6bQF_Ryyuvamvg/s3930/original_c49e6511-efae-45a7-ab68-1947dc408aa2_IMG_20230503_150132.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1785" data-original-width="3930" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx7RzufgCC00N0F866HcgyaVABxkw_TbHva5aGsWBFXlCC3voLLu7bLePZBuDt1YeRbhUrmA7ggwkuidJd-p3DX8UTFxizXK92gmITZ4vUdk8LAdLb0AOts5g4q67uVdmr1Zi3lbmSGRtBddIHErx-UlAp7OCx7EmWgxeLWvuJakvwe6bQF_Ryyuvamvg/w400-h181/original_c49e6511-efae-45a7-ab68-1947dc408aa2_IMG_20230503_150132.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">DOMAINE LÉRYS is another long-standing family winery based in Villeneuve Les Corbières, which has been run by Alban and Anaïs Izard since 2012. There are 50 hectares of organic vineyards in both the Fitou and Corbières AOPs, including much 100+ year-old bush vine Carignan in Fitou especially.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">'Vin sans de Saint Vincent' 2022 (14.5% abv) is 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre with no added sulphites, made in a fruity up-front style (France €8.50). 'Respélida' 2021 (14%) is shaped by 60% Carignan, 20% Syrah and 20% Grenache and also doesn't see any oak, but is richer with more depth (€8.80-€9.80). 'Belor' 2016 (14.5%) boasts 70% very old Carignan (120 years on average) with 30% Syrah, which are macerated for nine months (that's a very long time!) then aged in <i>demi-muid</i> barrels (600 litres) for six months. Serious wine, beginning to develop very nicely (€20). <a href="https://domainelerys.com/" target="_blank">domainelerys.com</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5TNRHXVBjuWQ7T8rjRimepm5gDei-xap-SkX9ux3k7DXU2KwJ6qmeRsPQlyevEMgbvgzz9cSW1vLfAbKhb8fSugcGjrDBoj4JfSpVUwjejpncPoOsrxSL3Oj15A9V6u0LEjfrLKPe3TQulLkcOzaHBldUVPjUcv_pfOHJuzUoLxua7YTNpSu9_PR5-8s/s3966/original_55fd119c-9638-4efc-baca-905a12af826a_IMG_20230503_140508.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2251" data-original-width="3966" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5TNRHXVBjuWQ7T8rjRimepm5gDei-xap-SkX9ux3k7DXU2KwJ6qmeRsPQlyevEMgbvgzz9cSW1vLfAbKhb8fSugcGjrDBoj4JfSpVUwjejpncPoOsrxSL3Oj15A9V6u0LEjfrLKPe3TQulLkcOzaHBldUVPjUcv_pfOHJuzUoLxua7YTNpSu9_PR5-8s/w400-h228/original_55fd119c-9638-4efc-baca-905a12af826a_IMG_20230503_140508.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">CHATEAU DE NOUVELLES: Jean Rémy Daurat-Fort is the latest generation overseeing 75 hectares of vines around Tuchan, with about a third of these various blocks lying at 250 metres altitude on schist terrain. Recently certified organic. 'Augusta' 2020 was 40% Carignan, 30% Grenache and 30% Syrah with no oak treatment (€10.50). 'Vieilles Vignes' 2019 had the same proportions but older vines (50-70 years) and one-third matured in used barrels (€14). 'Gabrielle' 2019 has more Carignan in the blend (this and the Grenache 70 years old, all grown on schist) with 12 months in barriques (one third new) (€18). And 'Mas La Borde' Fitou is made from younger vines. Also available in Germany and Switzerland. <a href="http://www.chateaudenouvelles.fr" target="_blank">chateaudenouvelles.fr</a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2012/07/languedoc-fitou.html" target="_blank">Previous words about these and other Fitou producers</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Other recent Languedoc stuff: <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/09/languedoc-saint-chinian.html" target="_blank">Saint-Chinian</a> and <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/08/rose-languedoc-vs-roussillon.html" target="_blank">Rosé</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-20459880436281572982023-06-16T20:46:00.020+01:002023-07-31T20:29:21.849+01:00New Zealand Pinot Noir Part 1: Central Otago, North Canterbury, Nelson, Wairarapa, Hawke's Bay.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE5MUhG_kOFqdkPhu5q1UPImD3T-krj534TyKQSTlnYPgrJL2-gC9zqQeRw-lmewWpM5MVHQW_ni60eNNMjk8DlrURs7G0wh24IKzcOmqCXJJPHnMvy-AC5iq5xlphcoW2FnPLbywUaeHndRnge0k4kNX2OVLLWT52r1_6OpGrVZD24sY61jcL6zRI/s3264/Credit.NZW.Inc.Mishas.Vineyard.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE5MUhG_kOFqdkPhu5q1UPImD3T-krj534TyKQSTlnYPgrJL2-gC9zqQeRw-lmewWpM5MVHQW_ni60eNNMjk8DlrURs7G0wh24IKzcOmqCXJJPHnMvy-AC5iq5xlphcoW2FnPLbywUaeHndRnge0k4kNX2OVLLWT52r1_6OpGrVZD24sY61jcL6zRI/w400-h300/Credit.NZW.Inc.Mishas.Vineyard.jpg" width="450" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://www.nzwine.com" target="_blank"><b>New Zealand Winegrowers Inc - Mishas Vineyard, Central Otago.</b></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">This stunning shot of Misha's Vineyard in <b>Central Otago</b> reminds us this wine region in the south-of-centre of New Zealand's South Island is distinctly 'cool climate', to coin that overused term. The Pinot Noir variety has adapted well to the climate and landscape here; and local winemakers can confidently claim to be producing some really delicious and fine Pinots, even if, inevitably perhaps, these wines now represent some of NZ's most expensive.<span><a name='more'></a></span> Click/tap the link under the photo above to find out all the geeky facts about New Zealand's vineyards and Pinot Noir. For info, there are 1656 hectares of Pinot planted in Central Otago out of 2055 in total, giving you an idea of the belief they had/have in the variety. Here's half-a-dozen recommended Pinots from the region, which I enjoyed at a tasting in Dublin a few months ago:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Felton Road</b> Calvert Pinot Noir 2019 (organic / biodynamic, 13.5% abv): Open-top fermenters, long pre- and post-fermentation maceration with hand-punching, 16 months in mostly used barrels, no fining or filtration. Delicate and subtle style, concentrated with fresh acid structure layered with lovely sweet / savoury fruit, tight and fine finish; still needing more time in bottle to blossom, very good Pinot. Importer: Ireland North and South James Nicholson (also Highbury Vintners London). £50-£60 UK. €68.50 Ireland. $55-$60 US. $75-$81 NZ. $90-$110 AUS. €60 Germany. €63 Netherlands. $588 HK. $120 SG. CHF 65.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHGTU4QATaU-i6PZNlgoP_-k3lEnyrNpuFQvjlbGL-Y0hvNrGeeT-wT-DCK0vcHwLhcnaYYXC--Hg4H5H5uOo6_JMWnsyrgSLmq4mPq0CrYghrJd6NWJiQQWSIuCEk7PnanaR-0_ly1iw7V6rbUSFruTcH5NRMJrWVYKrgxbEY2yDOmMUlYTpP2Flt/s577/Screenshot%202023-05-28%20175627.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="577" data-original-width="171" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHGTU4QATaU-i6PZNlgoP_-k3lEnyrNpuFQvjlbGL-Y0hvNrGeeT-wT-DCK0vcHwLhcnaYYXC--Hg4H5H5uOo6_JMWnsyrgSLmq4mPq0CrYghrJd6NWJiQQWSIuCEk7PnanaR-0_ly1iw7V6rbUSFruTcH5NRMJrWVYKrgxbEY2yDOmMUlYTpP2Flt/w119-h400/Screenshot%202023-05-28%20175627.png" width="119" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Thomson Wines</b> 'Surveyor Thomson' Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019, Lowburn (13% abv): Organic and biodynamic, 14 ha vineyard - they also own vineyards in Burgundy (Gevrey Chambertin, Mercurey, Saint-Aubin). Aromatic elegant Pinot, surprisingly closed up still for its age, subtle perfumed sweet / savoury fruit, long finish although light touch too. Stylish. €39 Ireland. NZ $55. AUS $50. £44.50 UK. HK $305.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Also worth mentioning, although was just bottled when I tried it so a little out of kilter: the Thomson 2022 'Explorer' Pinot Noir (£22-£27 UK, NZ $35, HK $198).</div><b>Akarua</b> The Siren Pinot Noir 2019, Bannockburn (14% abv): 18 months in used French oak. Rich and savoury with light hints of oak, quite dense and concentrated, closes up a little on the finish although has plenty of delicious lingering ripe and smoky sweet / savoury fruit; pretty classy Pinot. €65 Ireland (Ampersand Sales Dublin). £57 UK. NZ $100.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Pyramid Valley</b> Central Otago Pinot Noir 2018 (13.5%, organic): Slightly wild-edged nose moving on to a concentrated yet elegant palate with tasty sweet / savoury fruit, fresh and structured still vs drinking quite nicely; delicious. €42 Ireland (Curious Wines). £30-£32 UK. $45 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Smith & Sheth</b> Kawarau Pinot Noir 2019, Gibbston (13.5%): '100% barrique aged.' Lightly 'reductive' tones at first, delicious sweet / savoury fruit on the palate though, subtle and classy Pinot, once again drinking well but should age further. €42 Curious Wines. $50NZ. $50 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMYSst6Mocyl0cUoqsQI7mwK0sOczSdwL6LDTb4-8FIARXAGSvS9QDgH8S3gw_V7d8--E8-VkgUDu-thFjHolKd7zTaQqhmDnKfSJwmPwS-FSzOp_O24HiHpPJ0zonJJ9cVbfsKP6ezS75UZHEPEiVizVLkbcbphGf1Fs5TGE_Z8RGRZ3_anpMCpT4/s4160/original_0082c153-da4b-4b82-b383-994cad0c4f2c_IMG_20230130_163222.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMYSst6Mocyl0cUoqsQI7mwK0sOczSdwL6LDTb4-8FIARXAGSvS9QDgH8S3gw_V7d8--E8-VkgUDu-thFjHolKd7zTaQqhmDnKfSJwmPwS-FSzOp_O24HiHpPJ0zonJJ9cVbfsKP6ezS75UZHEPEiVizVLkbcbphGf1Fs5TGE_Z8RGRZ3_anpMCpT4/w400-h300/original_0082c153-da4b-4b82-b383-994cad0c4f2c_IMG_20230130_163222.jpg" width="450" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>North Canterbury</b>: Moving back towards the north of South Island, on the coast a little to the north of Christchurch, is North Canterbury wine region. There are 444 hectares of Pinot Noir here (total region = 1497 ha).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Pyramid Valley</b> North Canterbury Pinot Noir 2018 (13%, organic): More perfumed and lighter than the PV Central Otago above, mature sweet / savoury fruit combined with fresh acidity still; very tasty Pinot. €42 Curious Wines. £33 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBsZXZimlZot1DzuhYhAnckizH9T7DWhgANBEGsp6pS1HYLYOp-sTrbGi-UtmGHPuI_dzH2ah143Cq3vjk3EeTuSE1iEgm-O_Ku9kGqRIXeYfvd--55_Xqi2Ms02Cd9MvHQnqJyNqLoWs2iRTiy9lHrk4Z1CaRt_rJ6fyYCftaNPCR3VQ2KqqB974d/s882/greystone-pinot-noir-1665113148046.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="882" data-original-width="266" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBsZXZimlZot1DzuhYhAnckizH9T7DWhgANBEGsp6pS1HYLYOp-sTrbGi-UtmGHPuI_dzH2ah143Cq3vjk3EeTuSE1iEgm-O_Ku9kGqRIXeYfvd--55_Xqi2Ms02Cd9MvHQnqJyNqLoWs2iRTiy9lHrk4Z1CaRt_rJ6fyYCftaNPCR3VQ2KqqB974d/w121-h400/greystone-pinot-noir-1665113148046.png" width="121" /></a></div>Greystone</b> Organic Pinot Noir 2019, Waipara Valley (14% abv): Planted in the 1970s, Greystone has over 60% of their vineyards with PN on chalky clay soils; wild fermentation, 16 months in French oak, not fined. Showing a tad of age, aromatic and floral with 'pungent' yeast-lees edges, complex sweet / savoury and berry fruit, maturing for sure with lingering aromatic profile (savoury fruit, earthy and riper red fruits); good acidity still while mellowing on the palate, quite weighty too yet soft with lingering ripe fruit, lees-y bite and freshness. Lovely Pinot. Barry & Fitzwilliam (Dublin & Cork). $49 NZ. £26 UK. $42 US. $46 AUS.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Nelson</b>: As it tells us on <a href="https://www.nzwine.com/" target="_blank">nzwine.com</a>, Nelson is 'found on the northern tip of the South Island.' With 164 hectares of Pinot out of just over 1000 planted overall, we're talking tiny obscure wine region.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Greenhough </b>Hope Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019 (13% abv, organic): Less 'up-front' than the others in Curious Wines' considerable NZ Pinot arsenal with tighter mouthfeel, has nice freshness and subtle but lingering sweet / savoury fruit; leaner style perhaps but memorable. €35 (Dublin). $50 NZ. $298 HK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Wairarapa</b>: This evocative indigenous place name means glistening waters, which is located just across the Cook Strait on the southeastern tip of New Zealand's North Island not far from the city of Wellington. There are three subzones: Martinborough, Masterton and Gladstone. Another fairly small region with just over 1000 hectares of vines planted, although Pinot Noir makes up over half of it.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjioOnhfvHZ1RbUNzFisoseGqojXZ_Rq_brwIq8HUiZUR1Ric1dL9rp9fJQx9ORxjTJlfUfgljH5ajR3cAvnvOdcLyd5wc8zduO0t9XZvZ5CiIS-5uc-e1L9Gd6iipoUWbZz6M0uxkaHZ_nSP9WWs5RQxuBdrgxlFdIq92jTZs3rS40FM1Z-FJ2DsC8jEk/s2592/Credit.NZW.Inc.Craggy.Range_1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1944" data-original-width="2592" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjioOnhfvHZ1RbUNzFisoseGqojXZ_Rq_brwIq8HUiZUR1Ric1dL9rp9fJQx9ORxjTJlfUfgljH5ajR3cAvnvOdcLyd5wc8zduO0t9XZvZ5CiIS-5uc-e1L9Gd6iipoUWbZz6M0uxkaHZ_nSP9WWs5RQxuBdrgxlFdIq92jTZs3rS40FM1Z-FJ2DsC8jEk/w400-h300/Credit.NZW.Inc.Craggy.Range_1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">NZW Inc.: Craggy Range 1</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Decibel </b>Martinborough Pinot Noir 2019 (14% abv; dry-farmed, organic): Aged in French oak barrels, some of them new. Quite rich colour still, hints of smoky oak with perfumed sweet / savoury fruit, richer fruit than some of the others with fuller mouthfeel and a tad more grip, quite firm acidity yet rounded and fruity with herbal undertones. Good wine although I preferred the Greystone above (in a tutored tasting together). €38 The Irish Cellar (Dublin). NZ $35. SEK 299. US $29-$35.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Ata Rangi</b> Martinborough Pinot Noir 2019 (13.5% abv): 11 months in French oak (one third new). Perfumed and intense, much more depth and concentration than some of the others with lingering tangy and savoury fruit and fresh acidity. Very good. One of the best-known pioneers of Pinot (hence the price I guess). €80 Liberty Wines Ireland. US $65. UK £52-£64. €59 Germany.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz8lB2xmO44a_n9K2CBS3Y1eycE-1vvhRcUiFydofbdQnaLMHV9m6hqU7P1e5-G_pf3Zb7VRMsfdWT5w3HolnThud6wOO2ExAb4eO49gwSxIlPFBfA3esL51QHkNXoxG1jnxMVWJrnB1vVvrTdcu2HxD8P6C1xcQbjNPUhq0ggl7GfllnbQc-HHqnDnp4/s793/2022+10+03+Dublin+St+Pinot+Noir+smaller+copy.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="793" data-original-width="248" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz8lB2xmO44a_n9K2CBS3Y1eycE-1vvhRcUiFydofbdQnaLMHV9m6hqU7P1e5-G_pf3Zb7VRMsfdWT5w3HolnThud6wOO2ExAb4eO49gwSxIlPFBfA3esL51QHkNXoxG1jnxMVWJrnB1vVvrTdcu2HxD8P6C1xcQbjNPUhq0ggl7GfllnbQc-HHqnDnp4/w125-h400/2022+10+03+Dublin+St+Pinot+Noir+smaller+copy.jpg" width="125" /></a></div>Dublin Street</b> Pinot Noir 2019 (14% abv): Tiny well-established three-hectare vineyard of Pinot Noir (indeed located on Dublin Street, Martinborough) under new ownership five years ago. Fairly intense and concentrated, perfumed yet smoky profile with fresh light mouthfeel while showing depth and weight at the same time. Still a little young even and closed up. Very good Pinot. NZ $34-$38.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Hawke's Bay</b>: Not known particularly for Pinot Noir - most of the region's almost 5000 hectares of vineyards are planted with Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc and Merlot - the climate is milder and sunnier on the east coast of North Island.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Sileni </b>Grand Reserve Plateau Pinot Noir 2020 (13% abv): Lightly smoky, fairly intense sweet / savoury styling with mature yet fresh finish. Tasty and good value. €19 Dalcassian Wines (Dublin). UK £15-£16. NZ $40.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div style="background-color: white; font-family: Calibri; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative; text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/07/new-zealand-pinot-noir-part-2.html" style="color: #660000; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">New Zealand Pinot Noir Part 2: Marlborough.</a></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-65178355293784328172023-05-15T18:07:00.006+01:002023-12-06T17:29:58.811+00:00Languedoc and Roussillon: Terroirs & Millésimes 2023 <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3P5dvwyfZYz5jd-EUTnwAzlnt-0I49wmWqDC0m_LcrLru6L_iNN3Nwp4aMSUI_sEbMkvRoX9B2szC7ArNCnbT_vZjJOoPdcTYWDp8hp3VtMsMASDD_pmdB20MyUwfcxgUFyo1X6I6mS9x8jY-3StQ2w9x77Hy_r8pDw-dH3Kv3pPjrE22NSz-oQ93/s2304/DSCF1531.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1728" data-original-width="2304" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3P5dvwyfZYz5jd-EUTnwAzlnt-0I49wmWqDC0m_LcrLru6L_iNN3Nwp4aMSUI_sEbMkvRoX9B2szC7ArNCnbT_vZjJOoPdcTYWDp8hp3VtMsMASDD_pmdB20MyUwfcxgUFyo1X6I6mS9x8jY-3StQ2w9x77Hy_r8pDw-dH3Kv3pPjrE22NSz-oQ93/w400-h300/DSCF1531.JPG" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">A series of wine tasting and touring reports from a recent trip to the Languedoc and Roussillon will be published on the site piece by piece over the coming months. In the meantime, I've already posted photos of favourite bottles, smiling winemakers, tasty food, pretty locations and historical sightseeing spots on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/WineWriting" target="_blank">Facebook.com/WineWriting</a>.<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Including my red, white, pink and bubbly picks from (highlighted = link to completed post): (Languedoc) Clairette, <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/09/languedoc-saint-chinian.html" target="_blank">Saint-Chinian</a>, <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/07/languedoc-fitou-domaines-du-vent.html" target="_blank">Fitou</a>, Limoux & Malepère, <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/08/rose-languedoc-vs-roussillon.html" target="_blank">Pic Saint-Loup & Cabrières</a> (rosé), Grès de Montpellier and Montpeyroux; and (Roussillon) <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/08/roussillon-maury-focus-red-and.html" target="_blank">Maury</a>; <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/11/roussillon-north-continued.html" target="_blank">Côtes Catalanes, Côtes du Roussillon / Villages</a> and <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/11/roussillon-les-aspres-centre-and-beyond.html" target="_blank">Les Aspres</a>; Rancio Sec, <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/12/roussillon-south.html" target="_blank">Collioure</a> and esoteric Vins Doux Naturels (<a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/11/roussillon-les-aspres-centre-and-beyond.html" target="_blank">old Rivesaltes ambré</a> and <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/11/roussillon-north-continued.html" target="_blank">Muscat</a>, <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/08/roussillon-maury-focus-red-and.html" target="_blank">Maury</a> and <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/12/roussillon-south.html" target="_blank">Banyuls</a>).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Photos here: top = La Tour (or Torre) del Far, Tautavel, Roussillon (cropped in the blog's header image), viewed from the woods in the EcoZonia wildlife park near Cases-de-Pène. Below = tempting lunch table in a vineyard near Terrats, Roussillon, with Le Canigou mountain lurking in the clouds behind.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2pwyUw-sbtwge0tndzhmH3IN8e737tis8-_A7EVgt3aZkj4byT9ACZ3_WXLk7UWRS-T4vk1xYLOyICaCslbFugSXfnIwxRscucNwWAUmTBnChNmaNezKrwZMiLNKbnzSjsZM0EKHlEbD6GA0siJ0F4aphv9g0qLFkynpWvT2I4B6UY85Q22UW2aEp/s2154/Terrats%20lunch.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1641" data-original-width="2154" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2pwyUw-sbtwge0tndzhmH3IN8e737tis8-_A7EVgt3aZkj4byT9ACZ3_WXLk7UWRS-T4vk1xYLOyICaCslbFugSXfnIwxRscucNwWAUmTBnChNmaNezKrwZMiLNKbnzSjsZM0EKHlEbD6GA0siJ0F4aphv9g0qLFkynpWvT2I4B6UY85Q22UW2aEp/w400-h305/Terrats%20lunch.JPG" width="500" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-65960696647087571552023-04-24T18:03:00.000+01:002023-04-24T18:03:16.534+01:00Rioja: 10 to 20 year-old reds.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUeJkmWWr_3TpNm3N5M183Axx-ZAvwoVrEyMt_3sOYF68Dz9N0dLlG_SCjskYEvCghpJwIwKwn5EWCcVylvIZ3ckochbPYiHrS_SA94IB9T7QjvJCLEPvnn4ADHcCqfsC50-uqEPHwgr9AXZvPqa2_2R_egNYze8cOx2W25Q9huOZxVMum9knJ19wF/s3954/BOTTLE_4774.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1095" data-original-width="3954" height="139" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUeJkmWWr_3TpNm3N5M183Axx-ZAvwoVrEyMt_3sOYF68Dz9N0dLlG_SCjskYEvCghpJwIwKwn5EWCcVylvIZ3ckochbPYiHrS_SA94IB9T7QjvJCLEPvnn4ADHcCqfsC50-uqEPHwgr9AXZvPqa2_2R_egNYze8cOx2W25Q9huOZxVMum9knJ19wF/w400-h111/BOTTLE_4774.png" width="500" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">This selection of eight gracefully maturing reds in some ways epitomises what many people would consider 'old' cask-aged Rioja to be all about. Although, as seen in three previous posts (<a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/02/rioja-5-to-10-year-old-red-wines.html" target="_blank">Rioja 5 to 10 year-old red wines</a>, <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/01/rioja-reds-less-than-5-years-old.html" target="_blank">Rioja reds less than 5 years old</a>, <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2022/12/rioja-15-white-wines.html" target="_blank">Rioja 15 white wines</a>), with a new generation of winemakers challenging the narrow perception that barrel age equals quality, there are plenty of great wines to be enjoyed from younger red (and white) Rioja too. This snapshot spans vintages 2012 and 2011 to 2004, 2003 and one delicious wine exceeding twenty years of age, 2001 (a Rioja odyssey?).<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Manzanos</b> Voché Vino de Autor 2001 (13.5% abv): Tempranillo, Graciano and Garnacha from vineyards in <i>Rioja Oriental</i> planted at 400 metres above sea level. Fermentation in stainless-steel tanks with 3 weeks' maceration followed by more than 5 years of ageing, half of which was in old American oak barrels. Still surprisingly youthful offering delicious mix of savoury and sweet fruit, concentrated elegant finish. Lovely mature Rioja. UK and Ireland importer Alliance Wine (bottle shot at top of page from <a href="https://www.alliancewine.com" target="_blank">alliancewine.com</a>) suggests matching with roast pork, chorizo and aged cheeses. £25-£30 UK. €35 Ireland. €25-€35 Germany. $75 US (?).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Muriel</b> 'Viñas Viejas' Gran Reserva 2011 (14% abv): 35 to 40 year-old Tempranillo (bush and trellised vines) from <i>Rioja Alavesa</i>, aged 2 years in 225L American and French oak barrels, another 3+ in bottle before release. Enticing smoky and savoury meaty nose, showing some light grip of tannin while layered with complex mature flavours, dried fruits and vintage cheese, nice lingering finish. Classic ageing Rioja style. Importer Classic Drinks, Northern and Republic of Ireland. €16 Spain. $60 Singapore. $22-$30 US. 150KR Denmark. R$336 Brazil.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrnlSW6MyGgxblN2qpUlOcIEtKYpYIHSGtKJqlTlgEMLtJzgHItlf05HjHxhWkXvHx88EkrK6D51TUlepw0REKsGTACW6MGbvLQIN0fZEb5-L_PFOn-CC-Pn_Srkv4b7BQod2w8a7qFVuYd5ImNguiLBW1L_IwVi-AK-mBFNXMRmEl5KzKxJYYJQ8L/s649/SV03%20San%20Julian.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="183" data-original-width="649" height="134" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrnlSW6MyGgxblN2qpUlOcIEtKYpYIHSGtKJqlTlgEMLtJzgHItlf05HjHxhWkXvHx88EkrK6D51TUlepw0REKsGTACW6MGbvLQIN0fZEb5-L_PFOn-CC-Pn_Srkv4b7BQod2w8a7qFVuYd5ImNguiLBW1L_IwVi-AK-mBFNXMRmEl5KzKxJYYJQ8L/w400-h113/SV03%20San%20Julian.png" width="475" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Ollauri</b> Conde de los Andes 2004 (13.5% abv): Probably mostly Tempranillo, exact ageing regime unknown. Amazing colour with superb nose of matured cheese and lots of developed savoury fruit, lovely balance; very good old Rioja that may still age further. €64 Classic Drinks, Northern and Republic of Ireland. £60 UK: importer Moreno Wines calls 2004 'one of Rioja's best ever vintages'. CHF 420. $100 CA.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Conde de los Andes 2003: Details as above more or less. Much more developed and savoury but it's still holding out; shows the big difference between these two vintages: 2003 heatwave and draught, 2004 much more balanced growth and ripening.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.wine-searcher.com/" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="219" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8WTrmALx486XG5pPidVlahIRJXqhZ2jBaxo2gRBqtSLaa-E169yWcWMSRe4p1Btp8wvm-yyR4mwt9utMlCflWUuRmTlwD8LSJCgNo1rv7KiZKrtZ85LItVRXslL0VtHHtKFRccMF5jFEgSAf9HRjnocJ9FooIR4pYbFSyVFF4dpr3wc7T6whuxJXH/s320/10626072.png" width="175" /></a></div>Bodegas Domeco de Jarauta</b> Viña Marro Gran Reserva 2012 (14% abv): 70% Tempranillo and 30% Garnacha, aged 30 months in barrel. Another delicious red that doesn't look or feel 10 years old, mellow and maturing while still quite firm texture, spicy black fruits combine with tasty meaty flavours on the lingering finish. Classic but more structured style. €27 Ireland. €16-€18 Spain. €18-€24 Germany.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta</b> Hinia 2012 (13.5% abv): 40+ year-old vineyards at altitude in the Haro area: 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo; 3 years in American oak. Lovely maturing nose, subtle concentration of sweet / savoury fruit, still showing a touch of tannin with complex lingering flavours. Very good. €24.50 Vinos Tito (Dublin). €19.25 Spain. £23-£27 UK. $32-$40 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Campeador Gran Reserva 2012 (14% abv): 50-50 Garnacha Tempranillo; 30-36 months in American oak. A tad cheesier and meatier on the nose with similar gorgeous sweet / savoury fruit too, again has a little bit of grip and more weight than above with lovely lingering finish. Also very good. €33 Vinos Tito (Dublin). €28 Spain. £38 UK. 200 Zl Poland.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAjSNl99QjN0q1SHGumSoKHn4oPjHjYavVuUHkHF9cC_D8XmIOYSG7ko8r44CdiRK_VLLa8PPrO3H5bnWDRT_SFnrMu-luFxY3VUsEaAP818lJM8lH1I_q3wjh4fQniWpQJFVRjLlW2T1a8LVtiukcNHsEevaHKhwujtDpr6jhpG_Ox-Jvk1ppyxqP/s1016/vinos-campeador-campeador_gran_reserva-bodegas_martinez_lacuesta.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="280" data-original-width="1016" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAjSNl99QjN0q1SHGumSoKHn4oPjHjYavVuUHkHF9cC_D8XmIOYSG7ko8r44CdiRK_VLLa8PPrO3H5bnWDRT_SFnrMu-luFxY3VUsEaAP818lJM8lH1I_q3wjh4fQniWpQJFVRjLlW2T1a8LVtiukcNHsEevaHKhwujtDpr6jhpG_Ox-Jvk1ppyxqP/w400-h110/vinos-campeador-campeador_gran_reserva-bodegas_martinez_lacuesta.png" width="480" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Santalba</b> Ogga Reserva 2012 (14.5% abv): 90% Tempranillo (60 years old) plus '10 others', 20 months in barrel. Hides its age well, enticing savoury fruit with firm and concentrated mouthfeel, plenty of flavours and complexity, long taut finish, almost closes up despite 10 years' maturity. Lovely, more to come if you really wanted to keep it. Classic Drinks Ireland. £25 UK (2015). €35 Belgium. $45 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-59572746056581223212023-04-08T14:29:00.000+01:002023-04-08T14:29:28.815+01:00New Zealand: 16 Chardonnays & Pinot Gris/Grigios.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVh0Y0zB8eD3rTPj7Nx7LiCbOBbP4XrDx4TtFsj-Dbg_bcsepFz5VTf1KLl56X1ttqBNDXkSzXZkNpdsa7czjou7PfIrx_DjM2IN3QskzwPLg8_Qfcy7jbMq0cYqBdy19K_xrvfzSvCh6yb0Blv9u3CeWC0AdeBFQAOtuy5mYm_2caRZ-VYTMjVbEr/s5275/Credit.NZW.Inc.Elephant.Hill.(Chardonnay).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4007" data-original-width="5275" height="334" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVh0Y0zB8eD3rTPj7Nx7LiCbOBbP4XrDx4TtFsj-Dbg_bcsepFz5VTf1KLl56X1ttqBNDXkSzXZkNpdsa7czjou7PfIrx_DjM2IN3QskzwPLg8_Qfcy7jbMq0cYqBdy19K_xrvfzSvCh6yb0Blv9u3CeWC0AdeBFQAOtuy5mYm_2caRZ-VYTMjVbEr/w400-h304/Credit.NZW.Inc.Elephant.Hill.(Chardonnay).jpg" width="440" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">New Zealand white wines kick off a new mini-series of postings on WineWriting.com, with further ramblings to follow on red wines - mostly about Pinot Noir and Syrah with some Cabernet Merlots thrown in - and a touch of bubbly. The source of all these tasty wines sampled and regurgitated here was a recent New Zealand Wine tasting in Dublin. Photo: <a href="https://www.nzwine.com" target="_blank">New Zealand Winegrowers Inc</a>, Elephant Hill (Chardonnay).<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">I let my prejudice against Sauvignon Blanc win the day by focusing on mostly Chardonnay and a few Pinot Gris / Grigio wines. It's a little disappointing after all these years of 'diversification'-talk, although understandable from a marketing point of view given its lingering popularity, that Sauvignon still hogs the limelight in NZ white wine growing and making. The variety represents nearly three-quarters of all wine production and even more than that of wine exports, according to the NZW.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA9bBKucuAHAeEyZhogkE_yGLxCdDcZt9puAx66xqRaiJ9SRQwLJNrxJ6_18sqDBaxwy2r5xSe0G2fumZbLilVhysCkKOvHDxeoNuEPrXMb85xyLOfXOMuzx4wOWPjv9U-DcDCfb42tXfgcOUIZG4FVYxWNPzvWrK47X2DjmyjSOUBD4i0UPOtUCH_/s1980/new-zealand-wine-regions.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1980" data-original-width="1400" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA9bBKucuAHAeEyZhogkE_yGLxCdDcZt9puAx66xqRaiJ9SRQwLJNrxJ6_18sqDBaxwy2r5xSe0G2fumZbLilVhysCkKOvHDxeoNuEPrXMb85xyLOfXOMuzx4wOWPjv9U-DcDCfb42tXfgcOUIZG4FVYxWNPzvWrK47X2DjmyjSOUBD4i0UPOtUCH_/w453-h640/new-zealand-wine-regions.jpg" width="453" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Chardonnay accounts for only 6% of production, 3187 hectares planted (out of 40,000 total) and hardly any of their exports. If this means New Zealanders keep most of it for themselves, then we should take serious note of that! Because <a href="https://www.nzwine.com" target="_blank">New Zealand's wine regions</a> (map above) are clearly capable of delivering some lovely Chardonnays in different styles and at a variety of prices. The best-known area of Marlborough on the north of South Island leads the way, followed by Hawke's Bay and Gisborne on the east coast of North Island.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">There has been a slight expansion of other aromatic white varieties though: Pinot Gris covers 2800 ha, again dominated by the same three regions; followed by Riesling at 620 ha, much of it planted in North Canterbury on South Island’s eastern coastline; and Gewürztraminer at almost 200 ha. I've noticed most NZ winemakers have now opted to label as Pinot Grigio rather than Gris, even if they strive to make a more French style PG rather than Italian. Populist marketing does have its advantages.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>North Island</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHZ8K0RYUpqe-iXFbamHez6jaBsYiR3I21uez4YL1vWKwEQcyQ4_cmyBKCO-bGM7D5OYphR3O9hFJMrSuM86oZdXnzcXHDvKoLqkPR9kXkM-iz8Cz16M1RTfzIiXN6j_cs0psbs9d5nkX05xVjYfJlpKLQRvrKVhWrs4DTDPrBOgYSZKNZ1gcHG4cn/s879/2021-Estate-Chardonnay_270x990.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="879" data-original-width="270" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHZ8K0RYUpqe-iXFbamHez6jaBsYiR3I21uez4YL1vWKwEQcyQ4_cmyBKCO-bGM7D5OYphR3O9hFJMrSuM86oZdXnzcXHDvKoLqkPR9kXkM-iz8Cz16M1RTfzIiXN6j_cs0psbs9d5nkX05xVjYfJlpKLQRvrKVhWrs4DTDPrBOgYSZKNZ1gcHG4cn/w123-h400/2021-Estate-Chardonnay_270x990.png" width="123" /></a></div>North</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Kumeu River Estate</b> Chardonnay 2020, Auckland (13.5% abv): Hand harvested and whole-bunch pressed then barrel-fermented with indigenous yeast in French oak (20% new); aged 11 months in barrel. Quite closed up for me at least, underlying hints of toasted oak and yeast-lees topped with subtle creamy tropical fruit, fairly tight and steely finish vs big rounded texture. Very promising. €45 Pembroke Wines (Dublin). UK £22-£25 (2020+21). NZ $40.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">East</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div><b>Villa Maria</b> Private Bin East Coast Chardonnay 2021 (13.5% abv): Juicy ripe citrus and peach fruit, tasty and easy-going with lightly nutty creamy flavours. €16.49 Barry & Fitzwilliam (Cork). £10-£12 UK. SG $34. US $14. CA $18.</div><div><b>Villa Maria</b> Private Bin East Coast Pinot Grigio 2021 (13.5% abv): Tasty juicy fruit with honeyed rounded palate, fresh and quite weighty at the same time; consistently good. €16.49 as above. UK: same as above.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOX9iE-f1HkH-UO9B4lT50SCewyQNWzNFkpb-N85d9qubUYbsE2WAkfqSMIDqCougvEdA5JWCArq7cb97pB1TPg4YvjRTy4xdW_NUEtr4YAh5auNgzsfU-fRB2L6Q5KhMpXPpsnuBKuMtVOoFxpW9HKU3J8BiiAatIJEkGXFhR7ukKM2Jd2evSfxDD/s4160/IMG_20230224_205318.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="2682" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOX9iE-f1HkH-UO9B4lT50SCewyQNWzNFkpb-N85d9qubUYbsE2WAkfqSMIDqCougvEdA5JWCArq7cb97pB1TPg4YvjRTy4xdW_NUEtr4YAh5auNgzsfU-fRB2L6Q5KhMpXPpsnuBKuMtVOoFxpW9HKU3J8BiiAatIJEkGXFhR7ukKM2Jd2evSfxDD/s320/IMG_20230224_205318.jpg" width="206" /></a></div><div></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Te Mata Estate</b> Elston Chardonnay 2021, Hawke's Bay (14% abv): Cask-fermented, aged on lees for 11 months in barrel. Tasty mix of light toasty oak, yeast-lees notes and ripe citrus fruit, lightly oaky texture turning towards oatmeal flavours, good weight and fresh bite to finish. €25 Ireland. £27-£33 UK. AUS $40-$44. NZ $45.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Smith & Sheth</b> CRU Heretaunga Chardonnay 2019, Hawke's Bay (13.5% abv): A little oakier than some but had ripe and oaty fruit underneath; very nice well-made wine although I preferred the Pyramid Valley (see below), same price and importer. €37 Curious Wines (Cork). £27-£32 UK. NZ $40. US $40-$45.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Daniel Brennan</b> Testify Chardonnay 2020, Te Awanga, Hawke's Bay (14% abv): Whole-bunch pressing and barrel fermentation, matured over the winter and spring in different sizes and ages of cask with lees-stirring. Yeast-lees infused rather than overtly oaky, tasty juicy fruit on the palate finishing with more structured and fresher mouthfeel; good although dear (not produced every vintage). €40 The Irish Cellar (Dublin). NZ $44. US $44.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSPTjiadQu-J_XVacQ7uVfyykbfh8u2FxvgLiWYaM8as0ZI_zZoRiP24zCE_5h4ZBWHBLn4CGf4yw0uHS5gzwsvFGna6z9rhgLx2H8Ls0co7SqFQe9BEdc00h-6N2cn1qWKuNXTZ-q4e5xE5Y2DN7Fp-LEoX1KzJwWZNXWf-nv9RimO-jpGZB21YUw/s1205/ELS_BARREL_HALL_NOVINTAGE.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1205" data-original-width="1006" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSPTjiadQu-J_XVacQ7uVfyykbfh8u2FxvgLiWYaM8as0ZI_zZoRiP24zCE_5h4ZBWHBLn4CGf4yw0uHS5gzwsvFGna6z9rhgLx2H8Ls0co7SqFQe9BEdc00h-6N2cn1qWKuNXTZ-q4e5xE5Y2DN7Fp-LEoX1KzJwWZNXWf-nv9RimO-jpGZB21YUw/w334-h400/ELS_BARREL_HALL_NOVINTAGE.jpg" width="334" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">South</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Matahiwi Estate</b> Holly South Series Chardonnay 2021, Wairarapa (13% abv): Vines planted in 2013. More aromatic and nuttier than some of the others on the nose, again closes up on the finish though with lingering ripe citrus fruit and fresh acidity. $29-$36 NZ. US $28.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvO7CLtVfZuAULOrUFV5zGyl7cFrqkuewk8HQ7cGgJAqJYIHn0SwWhHhXEqKQnBluLyw3Mi9trLZO8CAfKMT8DuW5tpuzbVTBnHBkgb2QA4OmlqVTqolilYguXwsynMA8aQtPBbu8D0BSUDnri5KYjuSeG_irWonkG5vrW4GJDifCKB9UOLwne31HN/s518/SMALL+Tohu-Whenua-Matua-Upper-Moutere-Nelson-Chardonnay-NV.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="518" data-original-width="150" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvO7CLtVfZuAULOrUFV5zGyl7cFrqkuewk8HQ7cGgJAqJYIHn0SwWhHhXEqKQnBluLyw3Mi9trLZO8CAfKMT8DuW5tpuzbVTBnHBkgb2QA4OmlqVTqolilYguXwsynMA8aQtPBbu8D0BSUDnri5KYjuSeG_irWonkG5vrW4GJDifCKB9UOLwne31HN/w116-h400/SMALL+Tohu-Whenua-Matua-Upper-Moutere-Nelson-Chardonnay-NV.png" width="116" /></a></div>South Island</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">North</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Tohu</b> Whenua Matua Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2020, Nelson (14.5% abv): Block planted in 2006. Whole-bunch pressed, barrel-fermented with weekly lees-stirring, final barrel selection, not fined. Another tightly built, yeast-lees led wine, moves on though to nice rounder texture with nutty tones; pretty classy I think and should develop well. €35-€40 Mackenway Distributors (Dublin). $33 NZ. £20-£29 UK. CA $52.50. US $30? AUS $40.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Greenhough </b>Hope Vineyard Chardonnay 2018, Nelson (13.5% abv): Light yeast-lees and toast on the nose, plenty of sweet fruit though combined with tasty oat flavours on the finish. €25 Curious Wines (Cork) - €20 in April.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Blank Canvas</b> Reed Vineyard Chardonnay 2021, Marlborough (13.5% abv): Whole-bunch pressed, 'ambient yeast' barrel-fermented in French oak, racked and left on 'light lees' for a few months, no fining or filtration. 'Reductive' nose, very yeasty to start with subtle toasty oak notes, tightly structured palate in the end not revealing much to me at the time. €41.99 Liberty Wines (Dublin and London). $45-$50 NZ & Aus. £25-£30 UK. €30 Germany.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>OTU Estate</b> Pinot Gris 2022, Marlborough (12.5% abv): Flavoursome style PG with juicy fruit, lees undertones and nutty finish. €25 Boutique Wines (Dublin). $20 NZ. Photo below from <a href="https://www.otuwine.com" target="_blank">www.otuwine.com</a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmZBmth9zlHGbGxu5XZ6la4GhMwdTdfS9khE7-DY8FmUSt_4j6okFsm8vv9_vtgw1rZIVwsQerPkQ5Jk3P6m3gygNmkalVoqA9NhrTQ_W9eptaQzmcnMOUXkn0oksO55mzAeW-Kt_caXR-3_XN7GxrEC16atBB2_tZv2k4Ctt4Z8ImC0tdeeK4FyFM/s1080/G0013057-1080x569.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="569" data-original-width="1080" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmZBmth9zlHGbGxu5XZ6la4GhMwdTdfS9khE7-DY8FmUSt_4j6okFsm8vv9_vtgw1rZIVwsQerPkQ5Jk3P6m3gygNmkalVoqA9NhrTQ_W9eptaQzmcnMOUXkn0oksO55mzAeW-Kt_caXR-3_XN7GxrEC16atBB2_tZv2k4Ctt4Z8ImC0tdeeK4FyFM/w400-h211/G0013057-1080x569.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Oyster Bay</b> Chardonnay 2021, Marlborough (13% abv): Part barrel-fermented, part in tank, some lees stirring. Juicy and tropical fruit lightly sprinkled with oak tones, another well-made good-value brand. £10-£11 UK. US $11-$13. CA$20.95 (Quebec). NZ and AUS $17-$21.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Babich Family Estates</b> Organic Chardonnay 2020, Wairau Valley, Marlborough (13% abv): Part barrel-fermented, part in vat, left 8.5 months in cask on lees. Intense and leesy, tightly structured classy wine with subtle mineral notes and stone fruits; needs more time. €26-€29 Ireland. NZ $21-$25.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Allan Scott </b>Family Winemakers Pinot Gris 2022, Wairau Valley, Marlborough (12.5% abv): Aromatic and nutty, nice juicy palate in an Italianesque style. €14.25 i19 Wines & Spirits (Dublin).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Allan Scott </b>Family Winemakers Chardonnay 2019, Wairau Valley, Marlborough: Aromatic yeast-lees, toasty oak notes give way to creamy oatmeal flavours, quite structured finish still with good substance.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">East</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Pyramid Valley</b> Chardonnay 2019, North Canterbury (13.5% abv): Yeast-lees notes bolstered by quite rich tropical fruit and oatmeal aromas, weighty and textured palate with ripe nutty flavours and crisp bite too; classy Chardy indeed. €37 Curious Wines (as above).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRYXK5XthAnRMxMLYP8YvNdaVj4ba0k8PckLh90ZO711fRFXD0-HIzExnyhjZW1RbOHYI3tsHQYz6JLP-Er5inV-CJAwynT-qh4gZDJfeY5AW-4j1YQYlAvyhe7R4jtxHmOabtELf0lkLdXkgJUB-fszDDb8b4z7nrbQmuFEAUBnoKgJADzIOq8-CZ/s4160/original_0082c153-da4b-4b82-b383-994cad0c4f2c_IMG_20230130_163222.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRYXK5XthAnRMxMLYP8YvNdaVj4ba0k8PckLh90ZO711fRFXD0-HIzExnyhjZW1RbOHYI3tsHQYz6JLP-Er5inV-CJAwynT-qh4gZDJfeY5AW-4j1YQYlAvyhe7R4jtxHmOabtELf0lkLdXkgJUB-fszDDb8b4z7nrbQmuFEAUBnoKgJADzIOq8-CZ/w400-h300/original_0082c153-da4b-4b82-b383-994cad0c4f2c_IMG_20230130_163222.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Coming soon - New Zealand Pinot Noir.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-2126576000833805752023-02-16T18:28:00.009+00:002023-02-17T11:31:46.202+00:00Rioja: 5 to 10 year-old red wines.<div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEpLesxNXQ1ng5XJV9p6-NH1NemKUwICnVVVUcRZhbLxMLIIwA9vV9XO4hh3nnWlMYtZBY5MnpWDdtQUft75sBnccadadyE_cCx76YH9am1VMX8jyhLLAEj12K9K2jyfa5ByNlz_mDJVdAJtH4e9D1NXFEZRz13cNDdJaYbZbsmfuVUWdlOaXovABK/s591/bodegas-muriel-fincas-de-la-villa-reserva.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="161" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEpLesxNXQ1ng5XJV9p6-NH1NemKUwICnVVVUcRZhbLxMLIIwA9vV9XO4hh3nnWlMYtZBY5MnpWDdtQUft75sBnccadadyE_cCx76YH9am1VMX8jyhLLAEj12K9K2jyfa5ByNlz_mDJVdAJtH4e9D1NXFEZRz13cNDdJaYbZbsmfuVUWdlOaXovABK/w109-h400/bodegas-muriel-fincas-de-la-villa-reserva.png" width="109" /></a></div>As promised, the Rioja quest on WineWriting.com has turned increasingly geeky with this selection of 16 smoothing reds aged for 'five to ten years' (in cask and bottle).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The focus is the 2014, 2015, 2016 and 2017 vintages: some of these wines are traditionally categorised as <i>Reserva</i> or <i>Gran Reserva</i>, while other winemakers featured here ignore these rules simply because equating a mandatory amount of barrel-ageing with quality is indeed a daft idea.<span><a name='more'></a></span><span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">These notes and comments represent the third act of my on-going Rioja drama based on what stood out at a big tasting in Dublin recently. Part 1 (whites wines) can be viewed <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2022/12/rioja-15-white-wines.html" target="_blank">HERE</a> and part 2 (reds 'under 5 years') <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/01/rioja-reds-less-than-5-years-old.html" target="_blank">HERE</a>, where you'll also find a little blurb about the producers and varieties included below.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Muriel</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Muriel Reserva 2017 (13.5% abv - pic. above): 35 year-old Tempranillo vines, 2 years in American and French oak. Tastes quite firm-textured and extracted at first with lightly smoky toasty notes on top of lots of rich sweet & savoury fruit, maturing black pudding flavours mingle with aromatic berry fruit on a lingering finish. Tasty, fair class. Irish importer Classic Drinks. €11 Spain. £13-£15 UK. $21.50-$23 US and Canada (Quebec). €12 Netherlands. 160 Kr Denmark.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Notes on their delicious Reserva Blanco 2014 are <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2022/12/rioja-15-white-wines.html" target="_blank">HERE</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlFw7MgqB53Ems-aRhC9lpB4PfJDAElyHsvfgsPbhwkAYE5QIEWeGaYI_vRv-ZWU1xEW2XoBp5L3L9rnOmxYtBD5L4G787OiMTVkYiySIH-FrurAPZmBU-oivSBRZGhM9gqImQmZyCierzWQuSxuS2naBlalVzM7gUv3bsLcZ1eU14ELgusjJoYJsw/s1539/conde-de-los-andes-tinto-2016.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1539" data-original-width="466" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlFw7MgqB53Ems-aRhC9lpB4PfJDAElyHsvfgsPbhwkAYE5QIEWeGaYI_vRv-ZWU1xEW2XoBp5L3L9rnOmxYtBD5L4G787OiMTVkYiySIH-FrurAPZmBU-oivSBRZGhM9gqImQmZyCierzWQuSxuS2naBlalVzM7gUv3bsLcZ1eU14ELgusjJoYJsw/w121-h400/conde-de-los-andes-tinto-2016.jpg" width="121" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Ollauri</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Conde de los Andes 2016 (14.5% abv): 50 year-old Tempranillo, 14 months in French oak. Richer more extracted and fruitier style than some of the others, hints of smoky oak in the background with quite luscious fruit; still tastes young, very nice Rioja with more to come. Classic Drinks, Ireland. €25-€29 Spain. £25-£30 UK. HK$1028 6-pack (on offer, usually about HK$250 a bottle).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Cornelio Dinastía</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cornelio Emperador Reserva 2017 (14.5% abv): selected 50-70 year-old Tempranillo grown at over 500m altitude in Rioja Alta, 24 months in new American oak. Fairly toasty nose to start with dark chocolate tones, extracted concentrated and structured palate with plenty of delicious fruit and nice smoky finish; needs more time in bottle, promising (should be for the price). €40-€45 The Corkscrew and A Wine Idea (Dublin). €25-€32 Spain and Germany.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0fn2jWUYIm2mJulwgAbu2dXKFB82ZzPMQ7Ih6zi9l90vXzcdQTz_O9eFFdmoPoSaTA4pofYWF3MTe0T_D3Q8eWQtFsQdm3_tXH8Jgx_W4YInT8JcUIo-aKyKHBHjcKeYIRMS4xipGYLjw8xhcLugsgw7aIkr7fXKQ-lcb0eOj4k6mk8RVgsre_K1K/s846/Finca-las-cabras-crianza-1-683x1024.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="846" data-original-width="217" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0fn2jWUYIm2mJulwgAbu2dXKFB82ZzPMQ7Ih6zi9l90vXzcdQTz_O9eFFdmoPoSaTA4pofYWF3MTe0T_D3Q8eWQtFsQdm3_tXH8Jgx_W4YInT8JcUIo-aKyKHBHjcKeYIRMS4xipGYLjw8xhcLugsgw7aIkr7fXKQ-lcb0eOj4k6mk8RVgsre_K1K/w102-h400/Finca-las-cabras-crianza-1-683x1024.jpg" width="102" /></a></div>Cuna de Reyes</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Finca Las Cabras Crianza 2016 (14% abv): Tempranillo, 12 months in French and American oak. Smooth and smoky, mature Rioja with a little lingering structured bite; drinking nicely now. €18.95 Ireland (Boutique Wines). €9 Spain. €13 Netherlands. $28 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cuna de Reyes Edición limitada 2015 (14% abv): Tempranillo, 10 months in new French oak. Enticing savoury nose, grippy and textured mouthfeel where the oak is still a little obvious, but this wine has a touch of class; should integrate better over the next couple of years. €35 Ireland (Boutique). €20 Spain. CHF35 Switzerland. €19 Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Viña Real & Cvne</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwjjNtemt1TKC1VnP0ynWGnRH9b0WYAOa8RjCgPXtTG0MLGslfpMX8VmLDMpy2StVd75lM6rGdYd3Jzj9Om27poAfFasaB5BXzHENcc7XI5lrpyidb9BYo5kgaq4M9V8rG_KkvzYxkO5qYOa73h9WBsFoWrzWUxOaRsU0r0bzEEpK5ZZIELo4pDw3W/s495/vino-imperial-gran-reserva.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="495" data-original-width="149" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwjjNtemt1TKC1VnP0ynWGnRH9b0WYAOa8RjCgPXtTG0MLGslfpMX8VmLDMpy2StVd75lM6rGdYd3Jzj9Om27poAfFasaB5BXzHENcc7XI5lrpyidb9BYo5kgaq4M9V8rG_KkvzYxkO5qYOa73h9WBsFoWrzWUxOaRsU0r0bzEEpK5ZZIELo4pDw3W/w120-h400/vino-imperial-gran-reserva.png" width="120" /></a></div>Cvne Imperial Gran Reserva 2016 (14.5%): 85% Tempranillo with Graciano and Mazuelo selected from Remedio and Encinas vineyards at 550 to 650m altitude and Barbarroja and Antoñanzas; fermented in wooden vats then at least 2 years ageing in new oak and 36+ months in bottle. Still youthful looking and not that oaky on the nose, concentrated powerful and firmly textured but has lovely depth of fruit; just starting out, should be very good. €65 Bibendum Ireland. UK £40 in bond (Justerini & Brooks) or £50-£62 retail. €58 Spain.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Contino Gran Reserva 2016 (14% abv): majority Tempranillo with Graciano, Mazuelo and Garnacha from this single estate in Rioja Alavesa; 36 months in French and American oak. Mellowing nicely while concentrated too, developing savoury and cheesy tones although has quite structured palate underlined by solid fruit. Also young and promising. €65 Spain. £50-£60 UK. $60-$70 US. NZ$99.00.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpw4oJar9K72rnjetm0pua5--RQmEnXfmo0hGiyANGgKqlt-KBBXsz_oblbvktFipydPOKsn4_2j2rGlhrJUEYNBiuX_EJHzk44WEUe3xpUGNEhIhQcuh7kiVVIwqoA8BesnmI_8MbCcZv0t4LTlhPx8ik7mAGOqERrzv9GHOQmTLy0_e91RXNiK2K/s4160/original_3b3cd8e3-2a0a-443c-8acb-b2d36ede9782_IMG_20221116_153226.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1642" data-original-width="4160" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpw4oJar9K72rnjetm0pua5--RQmEnXfmo0hGiyANGgKqlt-KBBXsz_oblbvktFipydPOKsn4_2j2rGlhrJUEYNBiuX_EJHzk44WEUe3xpUGNEhIhQcuh7kiVVIwqoA8BesnmI_8MbCcZv0t4LTlhPx8ik7mAGOqERrzv9GHOQmTLy0_e91RXNiK2K/w400-h158/original_3b3cd8e3-2a0a-443c-8acb-b2d36ede9782_IMG_20221116_153226.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Domeco de Jarauta</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Viña Marro Reserva 2017 (14% abv): mostly Tempranillo with Graciano, at least 2 years barrel and bottle ageing. More concentrated, structured and spicier than their (also very good) younger reds (reviewed <b><a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/01/rioja-reds-less-than-5-years-old.html" target="_blank">here</a></b>), while beginning to mature nicely offering sumptuous sweet / savoury fruit on top of still quite firm tannins; tasty now but will improve over the next few years. €20 Ireland. £17.50 UK. €12.50 Spain. €12 Germany. €13 Belgium (2016).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Domeco de Jarauta Vino de Autor 2015 (14% abv): old vine Tempranillo aged for 18-24 months in cask, 'the best barrel selection'. Deep colour with lightly smoky nose, very concentrated rich and smooth, lots of savoury yet dark fruit, still solid and youthful-tasting palate but lovely textured tannins; will age for some years to come, very good wine. €24 Spain. £35 UK (2014 Virgin wines). €26 Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Manzanos</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Based in the Rioja Oriental zone, this bodega boasts two wineries and some old steep vineyards: La Ladera is home to at least 65 year-old Viura vines, Los Caballos to bush vine Tempranillo of similar age and El Barranco is allegedly 'said to have the oldest Graciano vines in Spain, if not the world.' Importer: Alliance Wines.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfqiaM5zDflJv3MCCfY0CEdfNgVuL6N-s0WIMP6CZV8OuoiW0ej8x3UmcTsuRlPvDINS4kLaQq19qLmCPbpHVRbYpLCloL1cA9rtMsr-6r1fyMw2CR49m9EaGZMLw5jZZuSjKOgshU5tjdCsrkpMhRkchlnE7K2mxCnnL_YPVLrj1ojL2aUcHXJeB/s727/voche-graciano_83097905-cc1e-4d77-82db-2f469655c353_1024x1024@2x.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="727" data-original-width="301" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfqiaM5zDflJv3MCCfY0CEdfNgVuL6N-s0WIMP6CZV8OuoiW0ej8x3UmcTsuRlPvDINS4kLaQq19qLmCPbpHVRbYpLCloL1cA9rtMsr-6r1fyMw2CR49m9EaGZMLw5jZZuSjKOgshU5tjdCsrkpMhRkchlnE7K2mxCnnL_YPVLrj1ojL2aUcHXJeB/s320/voche-graciano_83097905-cc1e-4d77-82db-2f469655c353_1024x1024@2x.png" width="132" /></a></div>Voché Selección Graciano 2014 (14% abv): 20 months in French and Romanian oak, some of it open-top barrel-fermented. Aromatic oak on the nose, vibrant colour and fruit for its age turning grippier on the palate but it's well done with plenty of lush fruit; very tasty Rioja. €30-€35 Ireland. €25-€30 Spain. £25-£26 (or £135 case of 6) UK. $35 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Palacio de 1890 Viñedo Singular 2017 (15% abv): 100% Garnacha, 10 months ageing in French oak. Ripe fruity <i>kirsch </i>aromas and enticing sweet maturing flavours, punchy yet very concentrated mouthfeel and lingering finish; lovely wine although expensive. €60 (case of 6 €360) to €70 Ireland. €76 Spain (in gift box). £50 UK (£299 case of 6). €50 Germany.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Marqués del Atrio</b> (Rioja Oriental)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Marqués del Atrio Reserva 2017 (14% abv): 85% Tempranillo and 15% Graciano grown at 300-600m altitude, matured 2 years in French and American oak. Has a fair amount of substance and fruit compared to the oak, which is better integrated than a couple of their other reds, attractive balance of smooth vs firm texture on a quite lingering finish. €30 Ireland. £17 UK. $18-$22 US. 130 KR Denmark. 74.00zł Poland. €10.50 Spain.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9qMVMKjFM7OlSqMUEebw3NJ_86Su3yH_jGlB1K4qBzMBsd0iXSwSHN4FXbvdHwCfPChK10LciMAJH2StutzmcuT-cIqQ3CrCUCmArVL5nq_2t1c-T3mTjrC_3C6cuyAUVu-DCzphFlyn0s_z3QDLBD-p1lcoEfGfChv0kd1s0vOASodCxKrNZ1L83/s941/Santalba_MAPA-b.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="632" data-original-width="941" height="353" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9qMVMKjFM7OlSqMUEebw3NJ_86Su3yH_jGlB1K4qBzMBsd0iXSwSHN4FXbvdHwCfPChK10LciMAJH2StutzmcuT-cIqQ3CrCUCmArVL5nq_2t1c-T3mTjrC_3C6cuyAUVu-DCzphFlyn0s_z3QDLBD-p1lcoEfGfChv0kd1s0vOASodCxKrNZ1L83/w640-h430/Santalba_MAPA-b.png" width="524" /></a></div></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Santalba</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Santalba Reserva 2017 (14.5% abv): 100% Tempranillo from 'selected vineyards in Gimileo' in Rioja Alta (see map), aged for 18 months in American oak. A tad oakier than their very nice Rioja Crianza (noted <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/01/rioja-reds-less-than-5-years-old.html" target="_blank">HERE</a>), but it's concentrated with firm and lively palate while developing enticing sweet / savoury fruit at the same time, pretty serious Reserva style and still relatively young; promising. Importer (Ireland N. and S.): Classic Drinks. £15 UK. 85 Romanian Leu. €19 Germany. $34 Aus.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Martínez Corta</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cepas Antiguas Garnacha 2017 (15% abv): 90 year-old bush vines planted at 500m altitude, 15 months in French oak. Chunkier and more powerful than the <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/01/rioja-reds-less-than-5-years-old.html" target="_blank">CA Tempranillo</a>, has lovely maturing meaty fruit though with <i>kirsch </i>tones, fairly punchy finish (typical Garnacha) with lots of lingering fruit. Same price as the Tempranillo in this range: €116.70 3-bottle gift box cellar door Spain.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmWC_YF3LcCwMzdcCd1oTYgFJqTc6NgCbfigjdKAOlTf6WTcvBBC3oXZVe_5AjUhrnneFaKPMhduZwHWU5Qx_LGx2cLtzGH2Ib96mr-K7Qn7w23NOUtCb57W9034GvaT_6xk6ZgLrSpbmZA8aXEQ9KHQWgmpPVwtocZJIUeGwkXDZMveiRMwiEK0G5/s1153/cuadrotobia.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="513" data-original-width="1153" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmWC_YF3LcCwMzdcCd1oTYgFJqTc6NgCbfigjdKAOlTf6WTcvBBC3oXZVe_5AjUhrnneFaKPMhduZwHWU5Qx_LGx2cLtzGH2Ib96mr-K7Qn7w23NOUtCb57W9034GvaT_6xk6ZgLrSpbmZA8aXEQ9KHQWgmpPVwtocZJIUeGwkXDZMveiRMwiEK0G5/w400-h178/cuadrotobia.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Tobía</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Óscar Tobía Gran Reserva 2015 (15% abv): 93% Tempranillo & 7% Graciano; malolactic fermentation in barrel with total of 35 months in French and American oak, bottled unfiltered. Rich and smoky Rioja, concentrated and extracted style yet offers great depth of delicious dark fruit, spicy and firm on the lingering finish; still young, will age very nicely but enjoy it now if you like full-on reds. €39-€44 Ireland. £32 UK. €30-€40 Spain and Germany. €32 Belgium. More of his reds <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2023/01/rioja-reds-less-than-5-years-old.html" target="_blank">HERE</a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Francisco Corres</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Fran Corres Selección 12 Barricas Crianza 2017 (14% abv): selected Tempranillo from two blocks at 530m altitude, aged 1 year in new barrels. Aromatic with lightly toasty smoky nose, quite concentrated with tasty sweet / savoury fruit, nice style. €15</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-16065690729438562912023-01-20T13:44:00.003+00:002023-01-25T16:39:30.459+00:00Rioja: reds less than 5 years old.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOJYNwhN1A65AzJ8z0ONo7Hy8xPipI46nf0Oe50GOyonS-cYKXRyZIPXzMwqj4dkpVkIaA_ayGK2SuxQXuWtkxPDvgOsM2YRF0TpWzh84bgmluiDHPzmLWccfnDz8vsts7J8bL4dnDisAWJ3s1-S5x_2BzMv9c83VXtC9cPcGiyV93VLzr6JWaLntq/s934/ARADON-LA-GARNACHA-PROMETIDA_main.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="674" data-original-width="934" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOJYNwhN1A65AzJ8z0ONo7Hy8xPipI46nf0Oe50GOyonS-cYKXRyZIPXzMwqj4dkpVkIaA_ayGK2SuxQXuWtkxPDvgOsM2YRF0TpWzh84bgmluiDHPzmLWccfnDz8vsts7J8bL4dnDisAWJ3s1-S5x_2BzMv9c83VXtC9cPcGiyV93VLzr6JWaLntq/w400-h289/ARADON-LA-GARNACHA-PROMETIDA_main.png" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Part two of this WineWriting.com Rioja feature moves on to red wines - the first instalment highlighted <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2022/12/rioja-15-white-wines.html" target="_blank">15 delicious white wines</a> (all tasted in Dublin last month: click/tap to read more). As an appetising entrée, 15 varied red Riojas have been chosen here which are 'less than five years old', to coin a cunning theme that will be developed in two further posts ('5 to 10 years' and '10 to 20 years' old).<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">This outing includes reds from the 2018, 2019 and 2020 vintages (plus one multi-vintage blend), which all seem to be successful years in differing ways. 2018 feels more structured with fresher firmer bite at the moment but promising, and 2019 lusher fruitier and a touch fuller. There's only one 2020 red here but, if it's anything to go by, the vintage offers rich fruit and chunky yet supple mouthfeel. </div><div style="text-align: justify;">A minor shift in red wine-growing and -making in the region is an increasing focus (comparatively) on varieties other than the mainstay Tempranillo grape, which nevertheless occupies nearly 90% of red vine surface area (reds also form 90% of all plantings). There are about 4500 hectares of Garnacha Tinta and 1200 ha each of Graciano and Mazuelo, aka Carignan or Cariñena. But more varietal reds are being produced than previously, when a blend of two or three grapes was the norm. Another noticeable trend is perhaps a little less or more subtle use of oak for red wine fermentation and ageing.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Aradón</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Old elevated organic vineyards overlook the Ebro River around the village of Alcanadre, located between Logroño and Calahorra close to the border with the Navarra region. The legend goes that 'Aradon was a village which existed in Roman times but mysteriously disappeared.' So this time, the Romans did at least pass on a nice little myth. Photo at top from the winery website.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">La Garnacha Prometida 2018 (15% abv): 100% Garnacha from four small plots of 85+ year-old low-yielding bush vines, fermented and aged 14 months in 500 litre French oak barrels and egg-shaped vats (two thirds / one third). Punchy and concentrated red with wild kirsch notes, dark fruity and spicy palate, still firmly textured yet promising more for those who could wait a few years (it's good now too). Quite expensive but impressive. €27-€30 Spain and France. €47 Ireland (imported by WineLab). 300 Kr Denmark.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Momento 2019 (14.5% abv): 70% Tempranillo and 15% each of Garnacha and Graciano from 18 hectares of bush vines spread around in small blocks, 35 to 100 years old, lying on slopes at 450 to 550 metres altitude. Six months' ageing in new French and American oak. Easy-going style mixing up smoky, savoury and ripe fruity aromas and flavours, drinking now with light grip on the finish. €16.50 Ireland. €7.30 Spain. €9-€10 Netherlands and Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qsWWQuHlcsWrRILGg-e3JKKpHa8xyN6ruy-dmgCb7O92ChKnaeRIMzqLyjp7x5jE2_Bz5uOnCSpq6U6AKcpjZPKjZfT9qTVw1v6eFmagII4stodcJWIu6n415GlwPE7u7_LlHq5x58JqC6ZDLPnXj2g53xdcIrsbctlBlDa5AiNslZsRjfKqtOh2/s1153/cuadrotobia.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="513" data-original-width="1153" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qsWWQuHlcsWrRILGg-e3JKKpHa8xyN6ruy-dmgCb7O92ChKnaeRIMzqLyjp7x5jE2_Bz5uOnCSpq6U6AKcpjZPKjZfT9qTVw1v6eFmagII4stodcJWIu6n415GlwPE7u7_LlHq5x58JqC6ZDLPnXj2g53xdcIrsbctlBlDa5AiNslZsRjfKqtOh2/w400-h178/cuadrotobia.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Tobía</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Óscar Tobía moved his operation founded in 1994 to a new winery in Cuzcurrita de Río Tirón, on the western side of Rioja Alta, in 2010.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Tobía Cuvée Tinto (13% abv): 80% Tempranillo & 20% Garnacha, blend of 2020 (fermented by carbonic maceration) with 2018 and 2019 vintages (3 months in American oak). Attractively fruity and spicy with maturing meaty notes and light tannin on the palate, very tasty. €18-€19 Ireland (importer Quintessential Wines). €8 Spain and Germany. £12 UK. €10.50-€11.50 France. €8.30 Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Tobía Seleccíon de Autor 2018 (15% abv): 75% Tempranillo, 7% Garnacha, 5% Graciano and 'other varieties'. Fermented with indigenous yeast from the vineyard, malolactic in barrel followed by 18 months in French and American oak, bottled unfiltered. Firmer and more powerful style with flavoursome sweet / savoury fruit characters, tighter less revealing finish indicating more to come. €23 Ireland. €12.50 Spain.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Martínez Corta</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkvjlXPeaN1d1vHejZCp93LM3wduQlZWBPqVz5hWlOLbj0pMxaMCDroFV68FqFTyZ8qcOaxSjBIGI_1O10NSj2J1KWMvWc4HcHHCRJHupAP_4GokzYqBQGpsXdxle_CAwramIYF6Aa5jNYXG9_6bjrvFzTXd0A_BFUiuB1SU2EHu47jjbWeQ69ESZQ/s861/martinez-corta-cepas-tempranillo-01.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="861" data-original-width="270" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkvjlXPeaN1d1vHejZCp93LM3wduQlZWBPqVz5hWlOLbj0pMxaMCDroFV68FqFTyZ8qcOaxSjBIGI_1O10NSj2J1KWMvWc4HcHHCRJHupAP_4GokzYqBQGpsXdxle_CAwramIYF6Aa5jNYXG9_6bjrvFzTXd0A_BFUiuB1SU2EHu47jjbWeQ69ESZQ/w100-h320/martinez-corta-cepas-tempranillo-01.png" width="100" /></a></div>Owned by Bornos Bodegas & Viñedos which counts Señorío de Sarría in Navarra, Palacio de Bornos in Rueda and two cellars in Ribera de Duero among others in their winery 'portfolio'. Martínez Corta was established in 2005 in the heart of Rioja Alta, with 80 hectares and four generations of family winegrowing behind it.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cepas Antiguas 2019 (14% abv): Tempranillo from almost 100 year-old bush vines at around 500m above sea level, 15 months in used French oak. A little oakier and firmer textured than their other reds, nice concentrated fruit though with aromatic blueberry and spice notes, tasty lingering finish beginning to turn savoury and serious. Expensive too: €38.90 Spain (about €20 ex-cellar price).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Martínez Corta Crianza 2018 (13.5% abv): Tempranillo, 12 months in French and American oak. A touch more concentrated with firmer tannins, similarly enticing aromatic berry and spice characters, quite elegant while full-bodied. €8.20 Spain. €20 USA. €13.50 Netherlands.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj0NlEqMEW6cD_h3MrjzfwAOgxsV5YzvKYdO9Z_bU6l3TKV9lNTIFwzI4WxjkH6BGAI3DGeAJOlp4ZHiUwrb8EKwupb7byQyn68w4joh0Dx92D2ShpyQtzfD4xkpfxCRKTFWzDTEAgj6I0UVUznOvK21apKfYILmia6eYqOfV_QVgEoNjc5gjt1sw2/s762/vendimia-2016.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="762" data-original-width="211" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj0NlEqMEW6cD_h3MrjzfwAOgxsV5YzvKYdO9Z_bU6l3TKV9lNTIFwzI4WxjkH6BGAI3DGeAJOlp4ZHiUwrb8EKwupb7byQyn68w4joh0Dx92D2ShpyQtzfD4xkpfxCRKTFWzDTEAgj6I0UVUznOvK21apKfYILmia6eYqOfV_QVgEoNjc5gjt1sw2/s320/vendimia-2016.jpg" width="89" /></a></div>Bodegas D Mateos</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Based in the Rioja Oriental zone.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">La Mateo Selección de Familia Vendimia 2018 (14% abv): 70% Tempranillo, 27% Garnacha, 3% Graciano (average 50 years old); 14 months in new French & American oak. Concentrated fruit on a firm yet luscious palate, tight finish still with lingering sweet / savoury flavours and a bite of tannin; well balanced and promising. €38 Ireland (WineLab). £30 UK. €22.50 Germany. €22.50 Spain.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTvMBCmRnPxK8mDXw4wB5AZUfByVw4m8Yp9uiiTEc3_vR2d24NTtd8XDi3o9HYBcJThuj72nKNv8m1ONFPbtz_qSs3-8dbXC7VYn_oxwWS48mOT-fSHgFOLe95fbk2bZLvnxeyEynsMrbLbarUG6OnTjSSOYMAyi8FmiY6LU6NvfT-Ai1rr7eU9aws/s956/vina-hermosa-crianza-vino-rioja.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="956" data-original-width="245" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTvMBCmRnPxK8mDXw4wB5AZUfByVw4m8Yp9uiiTEc3_vR2d24NTtd8XDi3o9HYBcJThuj72nKNv8m1ONFPbtz_qSs3-8dbXC7VYn_oxwWS48mOT-fSHgFOLe95fbk2bZLvnxeyEynsMrbLbarUG6OnTjSSOYMAyi8FmiY6LU6NvfT-Ai1rr7eU9aws/s320/vina-hermosa-crianza-vino-rioja.png" width="82" /></a></div>Bodegas Santalba</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Rioja Alta. Importer Classic Drinks Ireland. </div><div style="text-align: justify;">Santalba Crianza 2019 (14.5% abv): 100% Tempranillo, 15 months in American oak. Lots of rich berry fruit, nice acidity and light grip too, oak is well integrated, powerful and concentrated but balanced; very good. €14 Germany. €13.50 Belgium. £11.50 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Haro, Rioja Alta: see <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2022/12/rioja-15-white-wines.html" target="_blank">white Rioja</a> feature for more info.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Martínez Lacuesta Crianza 2018 (13.5% abv): 100% Tempranillo, 18 months ageing in American oak. Not so oaky in fact with tasty aromatic fruit and a touch of freshness on the finish. €15.50 Ireland (importer Vinos Tito). €10 Spain. £15 UK. $16 US.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT_CPaYRuR6ulkjXBynDI3-wotX5Rb-Ye3YGn6CGnmLhp_8M-GnLn_YPFHTxzENl8w2drXsOGm988IX8ViRBe676EXo4jxZyj0k4tLON1GST_YhlsAbSE9Css9OS1V4NoP2e0Eg2MT2mHFf7OL4MixwO2CkmA6t03vx5hYouWdDT-w1SjonS2hMXkG/s4160/original_3b3cd8e3-2a0a-443c-8acb-b2d36ede9782_IMG_20221116_153226.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1642" data-original-width="4160" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT_CPaYRuR6ulkjXBynDI3-wotX5Rb-Ye3YGn6CGnmLhp_8M-GnLn_YPFHTxzENl8w2drXsOGm988IX8ViRBe676EXo4jxZyj0k4tLON1GST_YhlsAbSE9Css9OS1V4NoP2e0Eg2MT2mHFf7OL4MixwO2CkmA6t03vx5hYouWdDT-w1SjonS2hMXkG/w400-h158/original_3b3cd8e3-2a0a-443c-8acb-b2d36ede9782_IMG_20221116_153226.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Domeco de Jarauta</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Rioja Oriental: see <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2022/12/rioja-15-white-wines.html" target="_blank">white Rioja</a> feature for more info.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Domeco de Jarauta 2020 (14% abv): 65 year-old Garnacha vines, 11 months in French and American oak. Rich and ripe dark cherry fruit with savoury edges, concentrated chunky mouthfeel, firm tannins and powerful but has plenty of fruit and rounded texture; very nice. €23 Ireland. €13.90 Spain.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Viña Real & Cvne</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">See <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2022/12/rioja-15-white-wines.html" target="_blank">white Rioja</a> feature for more info about one of the region's best known wineries.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Viña Real Crianza 2019 (14% abv): mostly Tempranillo with 10% Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano; 12-14 months in barrel. Pretty classic 'lighter' style combining berry and spice notes with attractive freshness and subtle depth. Good. Ireland €15.99 (Bibendum). $15 US. €8.25 Spain. £10-£12 UK. CA$16 Quebec.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBGXXZ2ZbeWnpnpic-3HYrS_vsUguJMZkychDFvKm1HIq4QWmrHSty0OFd4nfWj3hI_qm-hlvFTAZJbyTfW1oS08LS7KJN6uSeSgUQh18bhkAJAwrumefgQF0eQGxNKEy79YphPzqOGm49YU6L8jg0E5MO8s__X5ZY4i3HsHAfRFulUooN0yR3S-ci/s1473/12278261-1_1619553045.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="390" data-original-width="1473" height="106" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBGXXZ2ZbeWnpnpic-3HYrS_vsUguJMZkychDFvKm1HIq4QWmrHSty0OFd4nfWj3hI_qm-hlvFTAZJbyTfW1oS08LS7KJN6uSeSgUQh18bhkAJAwrumefgQF0eQGxNKEy79YphPzqOGm49YU6L8jg0E5MO8s__X5ZY4i3HsHAfRFulUooN0yR3S-ci/w400-h106/12278261-1_1619553045.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cvne Imperial Reserva 2018 (14%): similar blend to above with 5% less Tempranillo, planted at 450 to 600 metres altitude near Haro; 24 months in barrel. Elegant and tightly structured wine offering ripe and spicy aromas and flavours, and firmly textured backdrop with subtle oak tones; lingering finish, needs time to develop in bottle. Very good. €38 Ireland (Bibendum). £20-£28 UK. $40 US. €28 Spain.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUPsjjTOuU-97933ROByjOM5DryhmsEfsU787z9so50rfRRa5AxV6YH_h-UxFhi_D8t81qVXGKBKbCw35uQB_P1a0a-J4ouUCSKzzc8ugwfZgsQQYkcIPDNLd_05FhCXJFmFjva-QuLj9nh6bUX45kFtZAe24PXOgClqUXLfsDsvvBjeR2jmM3ykJp/s686/cornelio-crianza.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="686" data-original-width="216" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUPsjjTOuU-97933ROByjOM5DryhmsEfsU787z9so50rfRRa5AxV6YH_h-UxFhi_D8t81qVXGKBKbCw35uQB_P1a0a-J4ouUCSKzzc8ugwfZgsQQYkcIPDNLd_05FhCXJFmFjva-QuLj9nh6bUX45kFtZAe24PXOgClqUXLfsDsvvBjeR2jmM3ykJp/s320/cornelio-crianza.jpg" width="101" /></a></div>Bodegas Cornelio Dinastía</b> (Rioja Alta)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cornelio Dinastía Crianza 2018 (14% abv): selection of 50+ year-old Tempranillo grown at 500m altitude, aged 12 months in American oak. Fairly rich and fruity with underlying light toasty oak, fresh-structured mouthfeel yet savoury flavoured and maturing, lovely balance and style; very good. €29.95 Ireland (The Corkscrew, A Wine Idea). €15-€17 Spain and Germany.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cornelio Imperial Autor 2018 (14.5% abv): even fussier selection of old Tempranillo, malolactic fermentation and ageing for 14 months in new American oak. Quite different in style, more coconut oak spice and firmer tannins, closed up on the finish but it's concentrated. Good show wine but I prefer their other reds, especially at €50 a bottle (The Corkscrew). €29 Germany.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Muriel</b> (Rioja Alavesa)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Muriel Crianza 2019 (13.5% abv): 100% Tempranillo. Lightly smoky nose with sweet & savoury berry fruit characters, the palate delivers a little tannin and freshness while nicely maturing at the same time. Good. Classic Drinks importer in Ireland (North and South): €16 The Wine Centre. UK £10-£15. US $15-$20. Netherlands and Austria €6-€7.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-79723863825264307642022-12-29T19:30:00.000+00:002022-12-29T19:30:01.414+00:00Rioja: 15 white wines.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSa1gBQyURRwlTmHRJuretM8Ofplj644EMlXQYi2YWa3poYUbbooWVQqFQVI1F-aSJQFE9lBjVaPUM2faJJ8UZFbAWW4fAx9O-MSYrmmC_sZXVuoAt3S1v1i-BYCVErf-Gzil3WhwOK2N0WyMSqYl-5JM3HyJOYoS4Z3Uf-3StjqCUcW55kKsicNKA/s471/Conde.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="471" data-original-width="467" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSa1gBQyURRwlTmHRJuretM8Ofplj644EMlXQYi2YWa3poYUbbooWVQqFQVI1F-aSJQFE9lBjVaPUM2faJJ8UZFbAWW4fAx9O-MSYrmmC_sZXVuoAt3S1v1i-BYCVErf-Gzil3WhwOK2N0WyMSqYl-5JM3HyJOYoS4Z3Uf-3StjqCUcW55kKsicNKA/s16000/Conde.png" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The first of a few tasting reports gleaned from a right royal Rioja tasting in Dublin (by coincidence, Rioja resembles a word in Irish meaning majestic) focuses on white wines. Rioja Blanco was traditionally once as well known as the region's red wine, usually well-oaked in style, which over the years declined in fashion while reds became more and more in demand; but their white wines are definitely now making a welcome comeback.<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">There's also a broader range of styles emerging from Spain's leading wine area: some of them are distinctly oaked, others more subtly barrel-enhanced, while some are aromatic and zesty, and others rich mature and complex. Other developments in Rioja white winemaking and growing include more wines made from the Garnacha blanca, Tempranillo blanco (a natural mutation of red Tempranillo discovered in the late 80s) and Malvasía varieties.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">This is still very relative though with the well-established Viura occupying 69% of white grape plantings, and the latter variety doesn't even amount to one-tenth of the total 66,240 hectares of vines in the region; hence red and to a lesser extent rosé continue to dominate. I'm also not convinced that allowing Sauvignon blanc in Rioja blends is any progress, unless you like one-dimensional Sauvignon dominating the wine's character (but understandable due to this variety's enduring popularity).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Briefly coming back to some more geeky stats on Rioja, the region is divided into three zones running across 100km of varying hillside, valley and woodland terrain. Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa in the west and northwest are marked by higher ground and cooler temperatures, whereas Rioja Oriental on the eastern side is warmer and flatter. Generally speaking naturally, because vines are planted at altitudes of 300 to 750 meters above sea level, so nowhere is 'flat' as such even on the elevated plains.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkf-8LKSaCWIdG02ldC6wwKhdQe2ZJKZ6CsQfru6Tdir2riTRprANGJIUpujX_WqHe_-Lsvpu0A29zWzcaLmKktQFxVuZb7XzWvGlsQxr1fu5xlukzpwnk0mM5pVvRrNzKsZhKuBC0qlAZOnmQbp0RM4H0J3P-iMBLGzXMr2MoevYBtiAPN3T1tZin/s1415/vina-muriel-blanco-reserva.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1415" data-original-width="386" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkf-8LKSaCWIdG02ldC6wwKhdQe2ZJKZ6CsQfru6Tdir2riTRprANGJIUpujX_WqHe_-Lsvpu0A29zWzcaLmKktQFxVuZb7XzWvGlsQxr1fu5xlukzpwnk0mM5pVvRrNzKsZhKuBC0qlAZOnmQbp0RM4H0J3P-iMBLGzXMr2MoevYBtiAPN3T1tZin/w109-h400/vina-muriel-blanco-reserva.png" width="109" /></a></div>Bodegas Ollauri</b> (Rioja Alta)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">This impressive winery and the Conde de los Andes label (pic. at the top) are owned by the well-known and respected Muriel group. This range is about 'sourcing grapes from small plots of old vineyards planted in high places' and 'commitment to old vintages as well as innovation...'</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Conde de los Andes Blanco 2016 (100% Malvasía planted in 1975, barrel-fermented and aged for 6 months, 13.5% abv): Very complex nose with nutty oxidised notes mingling with buttery coconut flavours, lovely texture and multi-layered tasty finish. Very good, mature yet there's life in it yet. £25-£29 UK. €25 Spain. Irish importer Classic Drinks (North and South). $48 USA.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Muriel</b> (Rioja Alavesa)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Muriel Blanco 2021 (85% Viura, 15% Tempranillo blanco, 13.5% abv): Fresh floral and honeyed with nice nutty vs crisp palate. $14-15 USA. €6 Spain.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Viña Muriel Blanco Reserva 2014 (40+ year-old Viura from El Gallo vineyard, barrel-fermented then 8 months in oak, 12.5% abv): Developed oily Riesling-esque aromas, toasted nutty rounded and mature mouthfeel while still quite lively and elegant; delicious and different. €14-€15 Spain. 150 KR Denmark. £18-£19 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie2nSppsqS_COeVw6NNCxoyOx3W6lPb4_PH-5pyozr9bbJGxROmZavK2rprC_hLGYpbWS3hRPfaHivLc3gVP3BZUzl5Rj3UnMpn9qKmWifrkMElE_9xxX0v4a3PHoZi5ANYakZYN2wsZXWuNpTAjZB_30nH-X6HtZ5PSBMa_CkXMNb1bUlHryNx4-Q/s916/vega-vella-garnacha-blanca-huevo-de-hormigon.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="916" data-original-width="265" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie2nSppsqS_COeVw6NNCxoyOx3W6lPb4_PH-5pyozr9bbJGxROmZavK2rprC_hLGYpbWS3hRPfaHivLc3gVP3BZUzl5Rj3UnMpn9qKmWifrkMElE_9xxX0v4a3PHoZi5ANYakZYN2wsZXWuNpTAjZB_30nH-X6HtZ5PSBMa_CkXMNb1bUlHryNx4-Q/w116-h400/vega-vella-garnacha-blanca-huevo-de-hormigon.jpg" width="116" /></a></div>Bodegas Cornelio Dinastía</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cornelio Dinastía Blanco Fermentado en Barrica 2020 (60 year-old Viura, 8 months in barrels, 14% abv): Toasty hints, enticing oily texture and developing flavours vs fresh acidity, well textured yet structured finish. Should develop nicely in bottle over the coming months. €29.95 The Corkscrew, Dublin. £25.85 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Vega Vella Blanco 2020 (100% organic Garnacha blanca, fermented in egg vats with lees stirring, 14% abv): Aromatic citrus fruits with oily honeyed edges, lovely texture and richness with nice palate weight vs underlining crispness. Very tasty and fine albeit expensive (it is their top white wine though): €39.95 The Corkscrew.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Viña Real & Cvne</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">One of the most famous names in Rioja-land, Viña Real has been around since 1920 based in the Alavesa zone near the ancient <i>Camino Real</i>. Contino was established in 1973 as 'the first Rioja chateau concept winery', although the name and cellars date back to the 16th century.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Viña Real Blanco Fermentado en Barrica 2020 (100% Viura, 5 months in barrel with malolactic fermentation, 13% abv): Zesty and yeast lees tones to start, turning rounder and richer in the mouth with appealing fresh citrus vs roast nut finish. €23.95 Bibendum Ireland. €7.55 Spain.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Contino Blanco 2020 (70% Viura, 10% Malvasia, 20% Garnacha blanca; partly oak aged for 10 months): From their 62 ha vineyard at altitude around the property near Haro (Rioja Alta). Tight crisp mouthfeel at first, developing oilier and subtle honeyed nutty notes, surprisingly closed up and structured still but promising. £22-27 UK. €28 Spain.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH8M_qz27uXhcY8LVn1ifoJh21E6Af6jm-v93QioNdZPDq3vtjqdUwxAIr2-xLRl1wV1EMXuxSDYjc29xGeX5-s4bM9wok0JG_MKZZg2zvWDtNtmF1j88z0diwGDkabNDrY8IgQD4Qk7U57JaZYa5iHLmotZpYw1ErEJ7A-pivwGwmx4h0qSk7oW0b/s1354/Etiqueta_Contino-Blanco.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1354" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH8M_qz27uXhcY8LVn1ifoJh21E6Af6jm-v93QioNdZPDq3vtjqdUwxAIr2-xLRl1wV1EMXuxSDYjc29xGeX5-s4bM9wok0JG_MKZZg2zvWDtNtmF1j88z0diwGDkabNDrY8IgQD4Qk7U57JaZYa5iHLmotZpYw1ErEJ7A-pivwGwmx4h0qSk7oW0b/s320/Etiqueta_Contino-Blanco.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Domeco de Jarauta</b> (Rioja Oriental)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">This family winery in Aldeanueva de Ebro boasts 100 hectares of vineyards, whose grape-growing history goes back to the late 19th century; and José Vicente Domeco de Jarauta founded the eponymous Bodegas with his son in 2005.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Domeco de Jarauta Blanco 2020 (100% Garnacha blanca, barrel-fermented and aged for 4 months, 12% abv): Quite rich and toasty on the nose, enticing yeast-lees characters build to an intense palate though with attractive crisp zesty finish to balance. €14 Spain. €23 Ireland. €16.50 Germany.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_3pp2Jy7c5N4IzbbLKi8xgXPH0FHo46YS4x45_zRcyvUvku7V1V9QRjWJajUPLYu__axdy1Q3bnon6PzSEdoEkriWI4GrDvuMOWvJ_N2m87OeoTaT0HViHx11TRnlp-ct0llriHpx_6i3JK9JDxrh6UovwxJzo9enaZZTyHk_qiJFCG73Z0hK1kFJ/s681/marques-del-atrio-2-cepas-250x728.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="681" data-original-width="178" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_3pp2Jy7c5N4IzbbLKi8xgXPH0FHo46YS4x45_zRcyvUvku7V1V9QRjWJajUPLYu__axdy1Q3bnon6PzSEdoEkriWI4GrDvuMOWvJ_N2m87OeoTaT0HViHx11TRnlp-ct0llriHpx_6i3JK9JDxrh6UovwxJzo9enaZZTyHk_qiJFCG73Z0hK1kFJ/w105-h400/marques-del-atrio-2-cepas-250x728.png" width="105" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Marqués del Atrio</b> (Rioja Oriental)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">2 Cepas de Marqués del Atrio Blanco 2019 (50-50 Viura and Tempranillo blanco from vineyards, 10 months in barrels with lees-stirring, 13% abv): Coconutty and creamy lees-y rather than overtly oaky, still surprisingly fresh too while nicely rounded and maturing on the finish. Good but pretty dear (it's a limited edition wine apparently). €30 Ireland. €19 Spain. £18-£20 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Martínez Lacuesta</b> (Haro, Rioja Alta)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Tempranillo Blanco 2021 (13% abv): Floral citrus and honey aromas, lively zingy mouthfeel with tasty concentrated finish. Good. €13 Ireland. €7-€8 Spain. £10.50 UK. €8 Poland.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Blanco Fermentado en Barrica 2018 (100% Viura, 3 months in French oak with regular lees-stirring, 13% abv): Wild interesting nose, creamy and lees-y while floral with green fruits too, fatter palate with lots of different flavours; definitely a bit 'out there' in style, and doesn't taste very oaky at all. Very good. (2021:) £13 UK. €10 Germany.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://martinezlacuesta.com/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="398" data-original-width="794" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPwg1ZJfFFutNdN9t4016xT__WFE1TjFjRMwBGwAgMIEq8dyuvHbccAEFi6by0oiHDpXTXOBML01Yxvb-sHPEFL-P6FI50GY1VpOPYS37JzSn0shRnP7kqKwZ3FKV9Fj-ss94wBGfCvNdnlLAV3n9YwaoZgeei9QaSnSpnGmn83NyDAP8ezupteB7o/w400-h200/vinedos-El_lugar-vinedo-bodegas_martinez_lacuesta-square.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Santalba</b> (Rioja Alta)</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Santalba Blanco 2021 (100% Viura planted in 1967, 13% abv): Aromatic with nutty oily notes, attractive palate mixing crisp yet rounded texture, tasty dry white with zingy 'mineral' finish. Imported by Classic Drinks.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUaVpKPVs1ceZDjKkwmf6IE2gsBbdLdMQU4wY4ULbGLQ8thHYtaBtb0t5tojgh1p6NXK1Av-cyShNXCkj72XrMys4hWmCBCmkByVJLALEEScX2jg8zT21D5UuotZ4F7gYBwY5H88w2P1Hh70JVkz9M6OwPzaze02ExJsAnsWuOWQOiA6rVtIIEiWRk/s542/tobia-cuvee-blanco-botella-75-cl.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="378" data-original-width="542" height="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUaVpKPVs1ceZDjKkwmf6IE2gsBbdLdMQU4wY4ULbGLQ8thHYtaBtb0t5tojgh1p6NXK1Av-cyShNXCkj72XrMys4hWmCBCmkByVJLALEEScX2jg8zT21D5UuotZ4F7gYBwY5H88w2P1Hh70JVkz9M6OwPzaze02ExJsAnsWuOWQOiA6rVtIIEiWRk/w400-h279/tobia-cuvee-blanco-botella-75-cl.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Bodegas Tobía</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Tobía Cuvée Blanco (blend of 2019-20-21 vintages: Sauvignon blanc, Tempranillo blanco, Chardonnay, Viura, Maturana blanca, Garnacha blanca; barrel-fermented and 3 months lees-stirring, 13% abv): Very appealing style for the money, juicy vs oily mouthfeel with perfumed fruit and nicely textured palate. €10 Quintessential Wines. €8 Spain. £11.95 UK.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2sTDEb7Ew_OVljqZgXKVxoo3Uikiyv2Qir3o5FJRGi_MwqQRruXSFagDYs4qZB1vy7EO4icswHG-G05OhEin7JPLNJGCRZs8RenVgfNp4k3bd9pt4dUt4m8zBzpPZh98iolkTa-RrTSCwPtHo18ULl0wchgSaRDZBYRLT6H6HMep-Hzy7eM_2votc/s327/Conde-Valdemar-Finca-Alto-Cantabria-blanco.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="327" data-original-width="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2sTDEb7Ew_OVljqZgXKVxoo3Uikiyv2Qir3o5FJRGi_MwqQRruXSFagDYs4qZB1vy7EO4icswHG-G05OhEin7JPLNJGCRZs8RenVgfNp4k3bd9pt4dUt4m8zBzpPZh98iolkTa-RrTSCwPtHo18ULl0wchgSaRDZBYRLT6H6HMep-Hzy7eM_2votc/s16000/Conde-Valdemar-Finca-Alto-Cantabria-blanco.png" /></a></div>Bodegas Valdemar</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Conde Valdemar Finca Alto Cantabria Viñedo Singular Blanco 2019 (from a plot of Viura planted in 1975, fermented partly in stainless steel tanks and barrels, 6 months of lees-stirring, 13% abv): Hints of toasty oak on the nose underlined by enticing oily 'mineral' characters, yeast-lees richness and maturing fruit on the finish, very nice traditional white Rioja. €30 Febvre Wines. £23-£25 UK. €15-€19 Spain.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Francisco Corres</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Fran Corres Blanco 2021 (Tempranillo blanco from 3 ha plot in San Asencio at 600m altitude, 13.5% abv): Crisp citrus fruit followed by attractive oily texture; quite good for the price. €15</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-71339215897269876182022-10-19T16:54:00.000+01:002022-10-19T16:54:19.466+01:00Malta & Gozo: food, wine and beer.<div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCN6SOHIuX-70w9z9SC741pW5teZFTpXT8IRwFw2wlJLeF_DUqlA5bjreDM8AJejF5NbG5dH9kPbXqtxZrY8NzXc470rgOiLEcqi-mBcisbnMoXop920Ww2n9cyeML36w_jzq327so6EoAWmhPVKkpdLWsjF-PQydPEarDrnOWnvpPTdQQUUyrTakj/s4160/IMG_20220926_184659.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3120" data-original-width="4160" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCN6SOHIuX-70w9z9SC741pW5teZFTpXT8IRwFw2wlJLeF_DUqlA5bjreDM8AJejF5NbG5dH9kPbXqtxZrY8NzXc470rgOiLEcqi-mBcisbnMoXop920Ww2n9cyeML36w_jzq327so6EoAWmhPVKkpdLWsjF-PQydPEarDrnOWnvpPTdQQUUyrTakj/w400-h300/IMG_20220926_184659.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Not surprisingly perhaps, given their history and proximity to Sicily and southern Italy, Italian cuisine is commonplace in the Maltese islands in all its forms and price ranges. We discovered the particularly good family-run restaurant ('for three decades') <b>Il Galeone</b> in Sliema, a short ferry-ride across the water from Valletta (35 Tigne Seafront: <a href="https://galeonerestaurant.com" target="_blank">galeonerestaurant.com</a>).<span><a name='more'></a></span> Highlights included the chunky Duck Liver Paté starter (€8) and Panciotti Ravioli, stuffed with scallops and prawns (€15) (pic. below and above); the only slight criticism of the later was the otherwise tasty bisque-style sauce being a tad salty.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG3SdgRh-JEbkeRpyQKw1GHy1qo0za_ZOiTaoCgUNTVg2aX_q9POjha2M10OaH-aCP7OIubhJGhwvpuaGe7EoJgPvIqeivN--HN8-UlGUnGXBgySQRqpKokxuCQsiX5aQ06bfTxZ11w6eN4ueCnlfl-uvtKdSBT--yFDqpu2jeA7IsBPoH8V4UWg0H/s4160/IMG_20220926_183555.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2631" data-original-width="4160" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG3SdgRh-JEbkeRpyQKw1GHy1qo0za_ZOiTaoCgUNTVg2aX_q9POjha2M10OaH-aCP7OIubhJGhwvpuaGe7EoJgPvIqeivN--HN8-UlGUnGXBgySQRqpKokxuCQsiX5aQ06bfTxZ11w6eN4ueCnlfl-uvtKdSBT--yFDqpu2jeA7IsBPoH8V4UWg0H/w400-h253/IMG_20220926_183555.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />There's an unpretentious restaurant bar café on one of the main flows near the bus station in Victoria on Gozo called <b>Coffee Break Café & Bistro</b> (Triq Taħt Putirjal: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/CoffeeBreakGozo/" target="_blank">www.facebook.com/CoffeeBreakGozo</a>), which serves a couple of well-made well-priced risottos. Pic. below are the Salmon Risotto (€10), also with prawns, zucchini and sundried tomatoes; and Truffle Risotto (€9.50) with various mushrooms. A good place too for refreshing smoothies and freshly made juices, such as Berry Blast (€4) and Ginger Grapefruit Apple and Orange (€4.50).</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju8fq1Dy5FuHJJJsK_0mFPqy5pyzS1dEaz-2q2adOBm6SXYK7ofTFNEfv25WLqAFsBnunaa-NVRP4E1cEJmeq5Y2kElCI3iUeX3m72ZG8e8xZmSrh9M03dxdD8V3ffAIt-pw5qixyGp_Zah3itWIK_AIQILf1yyPcgw72nWRntssd1mSKYWiKyWY2w/s4160/IMG_20220925_183823.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju8fq1Dy5FuHJJJsK_0mFPqy5pyzS1dEaz-2q2adOBm6SXYK7ofTFNEfv25WLqAFsBnunaa-NVRP4E1cEJmeq5Y2kElCI3iUeX3m72ZG8e8xZmSrh9M03dxdD8V3ffAIt-pw5qixyGp_Zah3itWIK_AIQILf1yyPcgw72nWRntssd1mSKYWiKyWY2w/w300-h400/IMG_20220925_183823.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiyZvw0IreQV9GU7d2huEgZF2YheZATfIvguQ9NSi7HEWzbbXp5R61Ck3RPtTilIIKctDcElXe20MU5yVwuZLzA1YlOUYiIfXL_fc16XCKKa5hh3DK_kvR14JTbpGKgVbFqfsSxq_A2y7OMTZqpN5hygzLyxzlilbhJkkuDaA0OHcgQ56o8yLUn8p0/s4160/IMG_20220925_183812.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiyZvw0IreQV9GU7d2huEgZF2YheZATfIvguQ9NSi7HEWzbbXp5R61Ck3RPtTilIIKctDcElXe20MU5yVwuZLzA1YlOUYiIfXL_fc16XCKKa5hh3DK_kvR14JTbpGKgVbFqfsSxq_A2y7OMTZqpN5hygzLyxzlilbhJkkuDaA0OHcgQ56o8yLUn8p0/w300-h400/IMG_20220925_183812.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Back on Malta, for generously topped (and cheap) takeaway pizza in Rabat, look no further than <b>Crazy Cook</b> (100 Triq Santa Rita: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100063578113108" target="_blank">facebook.com</a>), such as Al Tonino (€7) or Funghi (€6.50). Another Maltese snack speciality seems to be hot pies - you can find them everywhere - made with either shortcrust or puff pastry, including, get this, a mushy peas pie!</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Local sausages are definitely worth trying too: the delicious platter below was shared in <b>Chapeau Bistro</b> found below the Townhouse hotel in Victoria (Triq Giorgio Borġ Olivier Ir-Rabat, Għawdex: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ChapeauBistroGozo/" target="_blank">facebook.com/ChapeauBistroGozo</a>). The Gourmet Homemade Sausages 'to share' (€17.95) come as two of each: herby, smoked chilli and garlic-thyme.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilsIFqppEZ3UGPuT5SWhc8UegxpKu9uH_5a1isLan-XndioLdub47Yerossg4hFa-hcE6CQWCBosf9dfurYy6EQhXTqfP_E0XbuzQGqmp804bpL1K_6VjLEEkE-kTDWfqyThRRSvcA5ig0utkdx-AsYMbQp_7TWW3ehoHJ1uZwrOb9BPq3o2yQO5XY/s4160/IMG_20220924_194219.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2431" data-original-width="4160" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilsIFqppEZ3UGPuT5SWhc8UegxpKu9uH_5a1isLan-XndioLdub47Yerossg4hFa-hcE6CQWCBosf9dfurYy6EQhXTqfP_E0XbuzQGqmp804bpL1K_6VjLEEkE-kTDWfqyThRRSvcA5ig0utkdx-AsYMbQp_7TWW3ehoHJ1uZwrOb9BPq3o2yQO5XY/w400-h234/IMG_20220924_194219.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The lavish ricotta and nut cannoli below, bought at the bakery in <b>Green's</b> supermarket in Victoria, brought back memories of Eli Wallach's character in Godfather 3, Don Altobello, being fiendishly finished off by Connie, played by Talia Shire, poisoning his favourite treat at the opera. As she says to the two bodyguards: "Leave the gun, take the cannoli." These two though were totally non-poisonous and scrumptious.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">The Maltese also seem to be good at making apple crumble, if the example served at the grandiose restaurant and bar <b>Bottegin Palazzo Xara</b> (Triq San Pawl, Rabat: <a href="https://www.bottegin.com.mt" target="_blank">bottegin.com.mt</a> - <a href="https://www.facebook.com/botteginpalazzoxara/" target="_blank">facebook.com/botteginpalazzoxara</a>) was anything to go by (€4); nicely accompanied by a pint of 'smooth and creamy' Blue Label (see beer talk at the end).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBqnd2eHPKM5_1n4vo4S32jMH7-Vh3PZ8O-qpFhqZV6rvhtRnhIDzKnhsglFzr7xSPG4q372YrPX7mTteCLYbmZLgZDwng0VLQUWWv4fxV4prbdrFn7OvVVA7Mu5VW2gdb_tpOix1vLDijHpA9ouVZVK-Z9xl0ga41MQWn81Q15db6yg-aOC9rlxNb/s2488/original_f3a3b6a0-3d7b-4017-a04c-f1b1b55b7aff_IMG_20220920_201023.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2371" data-original-width="2488" height="381" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBqnd2eHPKM5_1n4vo4S32jMH7-Vh3PZ8O-qpFhqZV6rvhtRnhIDzKnhsglFzr7xSPG4q372YrPX7mTteCLYbmZLgZDwng0VLQUWWv4fxV4prbdrFn7OvVVA7Mu5VW2gdb_tpOix1vLDijHpA9ouVZVK-Z9xl0ga41MQWn81Q15db6yg-aOC9rlxNb/w400-h381/original_f3a3b6a0-3d7b-4017-a04c-f1b1b55b7aff_IMG_20220920_201023.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Another easy-to-find main dish in Malta was maybe typified by the 'Local Rabbit' served as a flavoursome winey stew (€16.50) at <b>Aurora Bistro Café</b>, set in the airy lobby of a theatre on Triq Republika, Ir-Rabat Għawdex (Victoria, Gozo): <a href="https://aurorabistro.com/" target="_blank">aurorabistro.com</a> or <a href="https://www.facebook.com/aurorabistrocafe" target="_blank">facebook.com/aurorabistrocafe</a>, which features lots of tasty-looking photos of their dishes apart from the rabbit, as far as I could tell! Downside was the time we had to wait for the food.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Also in Victoria, a short bus ride or longer walk just out of the centre, is a recommended Indian restaurant called <b>Trishna </b>(Triq Fortunato Mizzi: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100077808802867" style="text-align: left;" target="_blank">Trishna Facebook</a>) serving hearty portions of good food. The Onion Bhaji (€5.50) were pretty classic; the unusual rich and spicy Kerala Pepper Beef Fry (€14) was really tasty and different (apparently many of the Indians who've settled in Malta are from Kerala in the far southwest of India), as was their Tawa Fish dish (€15).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDJVrRR0pfpmPnp_E74DW_rqUbJEcJbco4Cd6ygMOgkCD3FtpSpdDFyTK2fjmdE-bpw9iX1Ibw5vJ7wkWDV-2W-HZuoIRwpNO1wdgQ7Lko8Z9unqNWKsKkWAPb59RJnfF-q_JcrKWLi6U2iewcS_yuSxDOznHp8y_wrtgtlqEC7aHUSgN5TYIpSmkc/s2990/original_aeef170a-f283-4e71-b9e3-215d3cc7e650_IMG_20220925_123339.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2990" data-original-width="1797" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDJVrRR0pfpmPnp_E74DW_rqUbJEcJbco4Cd6ygMOgkCD3FtpSpdDFyTK2fjmdE-bpw9iX1Ibw5vJ7wkWDV-2W-HZuoIRwpNO1wdgQ7Lko8Z9unqNWKsKkWAPb59RJnfF-q_JcrKWLi6U2iewcS_yuSxDOznHp8y_wrtgtlqEC7aHUSgN5TYIpSmkc/w192-h320/original_aeef170a-f283-4e71-b9e3-215d3cc7e650_IMG_20220925_123339.jpg" width="192" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxmm_uQEQFGSFCfdoQobG0lzPTvtNQKs_vT_ObiuxCgOlcKQ9GP7QMvvysSjKjTOPXeXNj2Xw7_vUPeLWFfEOdtqBRXcKg7glddSyvMFgQr3w_gO1DX9v0M86E4bJ8XHXXZFW70bb3NOfZdKsGpKIxJ-ehoK7e69FhrcqUa47ENliZDf1HfxMMa9jp/s3728/IMG_20220923_204415.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3728" data-original-width="2926" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxmm_uQEQFGSFCfdoQobG0lzPTvtNQKs_vT_ObiuxCgOlcKQ9GP7QMvvysSjKjTOPXeXNj2Xw7_vUPeLWFfEOdtqBRXcKg7glddSyvMFgQr3w_gO1DX9v0M86E4bJ8XHXXZFW70bb3NOfZdKsGpKIxJ-ehoK7e69FhrcqUa47ENliZDf1HfxMMa9jp/w251-h320/IMG_20220923_204415.jpg" width="251" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Here are some bad photos of a few of the Maltese wines that were tried and tested. Most of the vineyards are on Malta but there are a handful of small wine estates on Gozo too. <b>Palatino </b>is a well-made mid-quality range produced by Cassar Camilleri based in Paola on southern outskirts of Valletta. Their 2021 Chardonnay was an enjoyable unoaked juicy fruity example, and the zestier yeast-lees edged 2021 Vermentino resembled a version from Sicily say.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">There's a tasty Palatino rosé too as well as Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet on the red front. They are widely available there for about €5-€6 a bottle. Camilleri's parent company Marsovin produces the easy-going Verdala rosé above (€4-€5).</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMnTqALr9t2bI33nrX7XGbGN_HTlp-rGfqD8-GO4VRlGbBaUO6IBk6dUJctGJc--Y9BERn5MHmudqIsCJATbp1oagAPdBI-eJu1tTE0UcFPZO3ryauWXPL7cSJ4-wSFvlKz7N_J1gSyZw_Kx51_ifdQW6Yjy0LKitU8ubZEv3--UHcLCvfSQPJnndd/s4160/IMG_20220917_215104.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="1636" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMnTqALr9t2bI33nrX7XGbGN_HTlp-rGfqD8-GO4VRlGbBaUO6IBk6dUJctGJc--Y9BERn5MHmudqIsCJATbp1oagAPdBI-eJu1tTE0UcFPZO3ryauWXPL7cSJ4-wSFvlKz7N_J1gSyZw_Kx51_ifdQW6Yjy0LKitU8ubZEv3--UHcLCvfSQPJnndd/s320/IMG_20220917_215104.jpg" width="126" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG51HGZr8n1wViKfiMkgQvveeRGGPgdC61ozFfuIPvserVB537IVkzgRQLBEfXuy0sWef6_83pTQxDOvIeb2rhZR-fQLWufRjHYDNCqIKwCHfH3jeOt_gjfgDGi3b2F8AmTg6K09Ppe8bap6WDsCg1XyL5NYloAG6C58T7Ttnd8VCSfEiopeR0fEDk/s4160/original_98fa6c13-bdcd-49db-8790-53c0336a498e_IMG_20220919_190836.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="1976" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG51HGZr8n1wViKfiMkgQvveeRGGPgdC61ozFfuIPvserVB537IVkzgRQLBEfXuy0sWef6_83pTQxDOvIeb2rhZR-fQLWufRjHYDNCqIKwCHfH3jeOt_gjfgDGi3b2F8AmTg6K09Ppe8bap6WDsCg1XyL5NYloAG6C58T7Ttnd8VCSfEiopeR0fEDk/s320/original_98fa6c13-bdcd-49db-8790-53c0336a498e_IMG_20220919_190836.jpg" width="152" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b>Medina </b>is a label produced by one of if not the biggest family wineries in Malta, Delicata whose cellars are 'located on the waterfront in Valletta's Grand Harbour.' The company sources grapes from 300 independent winegrowers farming mostly small vineyards lying in various sites around Malta. The flavoursome 2021 Grenache Rosé is reminiscent of a southern French or northern Spanish dry rosé; and the Sangiovese red is fairly soft and fruity with dried cherry and liquorice flavours in a southern Italian style.</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWJdayPbxYNfjdltiWZCm7P9SXJyRf5AoAmH6W5m5HdJWYkhs1NS00QoUnzd-GbMCKfvnkGQcoFnBBJWI5xmFyVgZwssHAcLKnUbsQ5lhgher6v437uilXVAkDOMOdnt5Ib-TKyBwcJPyQQFUxuAq1NWo8cDGFk1-LoKpTNTku5iAa_eyMnSIDjLzj/s4032/IMG_20220922_111536.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="2836" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWJdayPbxYNfjdltiWZCm7P9SXJyRf5AoAmH6W5m5HdJWYkhs1NS00QoUnzd-GbMCKfvnkGQcoFnBBJWI5xmFyVgZwssHAcLKnUbsQ5lhgher6v437uilXVAkDOMOdnt5Ib-TKyBwcJPyQQFUxuAq1NWo8cDGFk1-LoKpTNTku5iAa_eyMnSIDjLzj/w281-h400/IMG_20220922_111536.jpg" width="281" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><b>Farsons </b>is Malta's most visible brewery as their beers and lagers (they also brew the popular Cisk lager) are sold just about everywhere; the two in the photo above come on draught, in bottles or cans. The Blue Label amber ale was probably my favourite with 4.7% abv and smooth creamy fruity flavour. The Double Red strong ale (6.8% abv) is also recommended if you like a fuller richer malty style beer.</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-16173129293065678042022-10-13T20:25:00.000+01:002022-10-13T20:25:43.733+01:0010 wines and a cider of the moment.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ULr-_QmRv1Z85-lrJrhASP_GS7iFM6i0nCfLwHOplUUwBna6Su6Eeya1qlKgdkFihmfPvE0uyj7PhG-02MNDYHUoxqX-ON-oXdrMv35T9py1-rwpfzSD8VN9zorIzh16XA3CN9pvbZY4T_DYESBW8OAVcgRxisIalOUS3Ui2sUI-8rChuGwJMUaJ/s3853/IMG_20220929_143317.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3853" data-original-width="2666" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ULr-_QmRv1Z85-lrJrhASP_GS7iFM6i0nCfLwHOplUUwBna6Su6Eeya1qlKgdkFihmfPvE0uyj7PhG-02MNDYHUoxqX-ON-oXdrMv35T9py1-rwpfzSD8VN9zorIzh16XA3CN9pvbZY4T_DYESBW8OAVcgRxisIalOUS3Ui2sUI-8rChuGwJMUaJ/s320/IMG_20220929_143317.jpg" width="221" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="font-weight: bold;">D'Arenberg The Hermit Crab </b><span>Viognier Marsanne</span> 2021 McLaren Vale, South Australia (14% abv): Asda £10 on offer, normally £13. Stylish and unusual full-bodied white, floral nutty and exotic with zesty yeast-lees and citrus tones; generously textured mouthfeel from a small portion of each variety being barrel fermented, otherwise not noticeable.<span><a name='more'></a></span></div> <div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><b>Domaine de Pennautier Chardonnay</b> Pays d'Oc France 2021 (13% abv): £8.50 The Wine Society. These guys, based at a splendid chateau near Carcassonne in the Languedoc, know how to make delicious good-value unoaked Chardy.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">A trio of fizz. </span><b>Morador Malbec </b>Brut Sparkling Rosé (13% abv): Sainsbury's Taste the Difference £10 / £8 on offer. Tasty red-fruity off-dry rosé bubbly made from Argentina's most famous black grape. Bought some <span style="text-align: left;"><b>Prestige Cava Rosado</b> (12% abv) from M&S recently, having neglected it for a while: don't know why. This is beautiful bubbly for the money combining luscious red fruitiness and toasty yeasty complexity. £10 a bottle, £48 for 6 special offer. </span><b>Marques del Norte</b> Cava Brut Vintage 2020 (11.5% abv) is a total bargain at Asda (£7 or £6 'roll back' at the moment) offering plenty more flavour than any Prosecco and drier too.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzoOcd6i_MSd5FQxi9flDhPtytmu-gE3W1cyd32ao4FvpELq4RMvKU7qBjRVBmQRFIBNyIUUAb2vk5YrxBd5Wf9tqGb6pTAVocCzXc0QZS6RumMjVAAMM3lsqrqkFlVGd3tt_hyTb1diAwAbUVYbQboAtovUUxQMuSWz79GhnBVj4HVmam41x5eiZc/s4008/IMG_20220824_191653.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4008" data-original-width="2471" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzoOcd6i_MSd5FQxi9flDhPtytmu-gE3W1cyd32ao4FvpELq4RMvKU7qBjRVBmQRFIBNyIUUAb2vk5YrxBd5Wf9tqGb6pTAVocCzXc0QZS6RumMjVAAMM3lsqrqkFlVGd3tt_hyTb1diAwAbUVYbQboAtovUUxQMuSWz79GhnBVj4HVmam41x5eiZc/w197-h320/IMG_20220824_191653.jpg" width="197" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Viña Zorzal Garnacha</b> 2020 Navarra Spain (13.5% abv): £7.95 The Wine Society. The Zorzal Rosado proved a big hit in our household (why no 2021 vintage follow-on, Wine Society buyer?), and their red Garnacha is similarly charming and easy-drinking, with spicy juicy red and black fruits, peppery liquorice and sweet cherry and soft tannins.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfDDDHLK4xWq7N9fZkr8qZ8fqbJ5u4qpIlZqRE86_IUWXPH8wCz9VSLeNdU3yyaUXy8RTrw4RAuceAbINP68N9H3rPDzagGRa9e92mSjU8ki52GU4acsv2XrOSNMfPkr8Fge86L9XkkxVjlfejLpMgJ34cojklOIZQNHjdR3PAr8XBuDr4a2W1ors7/s4160/IMG_20220830_214724.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="1975" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfDDDHLK4xWq7N9fZkr8qZ8fqbJ5u4qpIlZqRE86_IUWXPH8wCz9VSLeNdU3yyaUXy8RTrw4RAuceAbINP68N9H3rPDzagGRa9e92mSjU8ki52GU4acsv2XrOSNMfPkr8Fge86L9XkkxVjlfejLpMgJ34cojklOIZQNHjdR3PAr8XBuDr4a2W1ors7/w152-h320/IMG_20220830_214724.jpg" width="152" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Armagh Craft Dry Cider</b> (4.5% abv): €1.99 Aldi Ireland. A lovely Aldi own label cider from the apple county of the North, Armagh: crisp and fruity with a wilder more 'natural' leaning appley style than many big commercial brands.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpIBGle6vH2cv0Q58tvRaim3u2actT7MIfiPKsbgpr5V0vYHphqFz5ZhxI5oEh4U6VgODWFvW-ct8jszMBst4Jw3xw5_uySMYTQO5miblTq5GAIsOPt229_HSg7m6vXh4SXOZj6Gt9ySPeNt6rGs72IvVz--pq90Y4iVU5SQNBlcS-lyENAClGVgQU/s376/br371_thieuley-clairet-2021_1.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><img border="0" data-original-height="376" data-original-width="96" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpIBGle6vH2cv0Q58tvRaim3u2actT7MIfiPKsbgpr5V0vYHphqFz5ZhxI5oEh4U6VgODWFvW-ct8jszMBst4Jw3xw5_uySMYTQO5miblTq5GAIsOPt229_HSg7m6vXh4SXOZj6Gt9ySPeNt6rGs72IvVz--pq90Y4iVU5SQNBlcS-lyENAClGVgQU/s16000/br371_thieuley-clairet-2021_1.png" /></a></div>Finally, it's rosé time. <b>Heumann Cuvée Villány</b> 2021, Hungary: 100% Kékfrankos, the same variety as Blaufränkisch in Austria (13.5% abv). On paper perhaps not an obvious choice, but this is a cracker: full of strawberry and cherry fruit, quite weighty yet fresh and crisp too. £9.50 The Wine Society.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château Thieuley Bordeaux Clairet</b> 2021 (13% abv): The Wine Society £9.95. This traditional Cabernet and Merlot style from Bordeaux - claret comes from <i>clairet</i> hence the seriously deep pink / light red colour - is subjected to a long maceration with the skins, giving a rich fruity structured foodie rosé.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Cirò Rosato Gaglioppo</b> Santa Venere, Italy 2021 (12.5% abv): £10.50 The Wine Society. Another sensational dry pink from Calabria in the deep south: Gaglioppo is the obscure local black variety.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-62177719030654111492022-10-02T18:19:00.002+01:002022-10-13T13:37:41.513+01:00A handful of unoaked white wines<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid9kjAboM4iR0QOXo4tIdOdc0BgCgGxQKZSXhoAu_e3iO8XdjX65_hFAVEiel23xt3iFkAUBxUF9vL2mmdG4kuz0EnT2pJuraEAxuu0Xdrim20_5uSQIWfnu3YRn39BrvEcI22QdxUSUPgBlM0gXAO66HQRSEK9tPBHfKcAGHtQ5-slsyR8fMOoOAH/s3744/IMG_20220910_101036.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3744" data-original-width="2458" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid9kjAboM4iR0QOXo4tIdOdc0BgCgGxQKZSXhoAu_e3iO8XdjX65_hFAVEiel23xt3iFkAUBxUF9vL2mmdG4kuz0EnT2pJuraEAxuu0Xdrim20_5uSQIWfnu3YRn39BrvEcI22QdxUSUPgBlM0gXAO66HQRSEK9tPBHfKcAGHtQ5-slsyR8fMOoOAH/s320/IMG_20220910_101036.jpg" width="210" /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;">A wide variety of five good-value unoaked white wines originally featured on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/WineWriting/posts/pfbid0rcPYmLntXjVFqos2eGWEUAzZoJ1YWHanyz47u93TJ2ktWU53iB57AtfuKAjRWrjWl?__cft__[0]=AZVKnbomO97poz2IcvqzCe9EXcCEuWciZ4Xfifr3gfi6iJMLCpbb5bWiUbus-1DyxmD6TBQ1RvTX5es2vwvcRyoIun_oViTHcYHFKFm-vCmnd6CGYxThFp8kajzd1NSVkJl_kXsuecmf0tqsf9N7bIb6mhMpspXvvTh30dVYFWzf5p-ejungCvnagOF4NE1-9JLd8vOhLTW7HWB8L8K5NVV0&__tn__=%2CO%2CP-R" target="_blank">WineWriting.com on Facebook</a> (more photos there):</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>The Winery of Good Hope Chardonnay</b> 2021, South Africa (12.5% abv). Flavoursome textbook unoaked Chardonnay from the western Cape: £8.50 The Wine Society.<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Tingleup Riesling</b> 2021 Howard Park Wines, Great Southern Australia (12.5% abv). Far southwest Aus climate delivers this tasty lively complex dry Riesling: £9 Tesco 'Finest'.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>The Society's Falanghina</b> del Sannio 2021, Campania Italy (13.5% abv). Classy example of one of southern Italy's best kept secrets: £9.25 The Wine Society.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Filos Estate Assyrtiko</b> Single Vineyard 2021, Greece (13% abv). Probably a one-off parcel so buy it if you see it: €10 Aldi Ireland.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Château Courac Laudun</b> Côtes du Rhône Villages 2020 (14% abv). About £10 on offer The Wine Society, the '20 is now gone so keep an eye out for the 2021. Stylish weighty and different from most dry white wines on the shelf, made from the Clairette variety.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-902471182494331516.post-4311905915089303352022-09-06T19:58:00.004+01:002022-09-06T20:10:21.153+01:00Roussillon: a dozen Vins Doux Naturels.<div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ73HA8bwPOlfb35gNkaqb4iQCy4yVgAfhORDFJQ1mhmPS5Y7UtmspHmtlXhALSJvqKIpcPYhTCwoPOrCikwnlR9Bf3eL7mfdMDAF4vAbDbI7T0EqHoxD6NEzj6XMYiiwTMdicVAEE2oWt7pBPCzwfdoSOlJZuy2c0VowQIFbcKDs-b0jxhT48qCZO/s761/rivesaltes-grande-reserve-1969.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="761" data-original-width="212" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ73HA8bwPOlfb35gNkaqb4iQCy4yVgAfhORDFJQ1mhmPS5Y7UtmspHmtlXhALSJvqKIpcPYhTCwoPOrCikwnlR9Bf3eL7mfdMDAF4vAbDbI7T0EqHoxD6NEzj6XMYiiwTMdicVAEE2oWt7pBPCzwfdoSOlJZuy2c0VowQIFbcKDs-b0jxhT48qCZO/w111-h400/rivesaltes-grande-reserve-1969.jpg" width="111" /></a></div>The fourth and final part of my summer Roussillon review features a (baker's) dozen <i>Vins Doux Naturels</i> (plural, VDN(s) for short), probably more naturally translated as (sweet) fortified wines, some of which are anchored in regional tradition while others are relatively 'modern'. Including whites - although their colour is often far from it for reasons explained below, a style called <i>Ambré</i> - and reds from Rivesaltes, as well as Maury and Banyuls, also white and red, of various types and ages.<span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The Maury VDN appellation in the north of the Roussillon includes four neighbouring villages either side and south of Maury. Banyuls covers the demarcated coastal zone spanning from Collioure to the Spanish border via Banyuls-sur-mer in the region's southeastern corner. Rivesaltes takes in anywhere else where there are qualifying vineyards, so has little to do with the town apart from name. There's also Muscat de Rivesaltes VDN, a tasty example of which I've included in my previous report on <a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2022/08/roussillon-35-whites-and-roses-worthy.html" target="_blank"><b>Roussillon whites and rosés</b></a>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Vine varieties and winemaking techniques are basically the same across all three production zones, with some variations. The white grapes used are mainly Macabeu, Grenache blanc and Grenache gris; and for reds, Grenache noir and sometimes Carignan. Cask-aged 'white' VDNs from Rivesaltes are called <i>Ambré</i> reflecting the deeper golden yellow orange and/or brown colour (depending on age) resulting from this kind of oxidative maturation.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Cask-matured red VDNs from Rivesaltes are labelled <i>Tuilé</i>, also reminiscent of their fading colour over time, which are similar to red Tawny Ports. In Maury and Banyuls, you'll see other different terminology such as 'Réserve' with an indication of age or Grand Cru relating to particular types of cask-matured wines (see examples recommended below). And young fruity white VDNS are simply called e.g. Banyuls or Maury blanc. More details can be found <b><a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2021/11/roussillon-french-catalonia-wine-book.html" target="_blank">in my book</a></b> or on the official <a href="https://www.roussillon.wine" target="_blank">Roussillon Wine</a> website.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Other key terms used for very different styles of red VDN are <i>Grenat </i>(in Rivesaltes and Maury) and <i>Rimage </i>(in Banyuls) applied to vintage- or late-bottled vintage-type wines like their Port counterparts, which are produced from Grenache noir <i>muté sur grains</i>, meaning fortified with the pulp and skins in the juice before pressing to maximise extraction. They are often NOT matured in barrels at all and bottled the following year or within a couple of years, thus vibrant fruity and chunky when young (many 'new-wave' styles are designed to be consumed like this) or left to age 'reductively' in bottle (the opposite of oxidative).</div><div style="text-align: justify;">As a by-the-way, it would seem to make sense for more VDN producers to bottle more of these unique wines in smaller sizes (some already do) such as 50cl (becoming common), half or even quarter-bottles given the limited taste and market for them, which might encourage people to take the plunge and try the different VDN styles on other occasions, not just Christmas day or whatever.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Hence, they cost less too: in the UK and other countries, (high) duty or excise taxes are based on alcohol by volume level. Talking of alcohol content, with most of the wines here registering between 15.5% and 17.5% abv, rather than 20+ like most Port, perhaps Roussillon VDNs have a slight advantage in terms of taste (less boozy) as well as tax level per unit.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><i>Ambré </i>style VDNs</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Dom Brial</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Rivesaltes Grande Réserve </b>1969 (pic. above): Aged in large old casks for 40 years 'in a naturally oxidative environment' (hence that colour) then racked and bottled in January 2009. Why not start with something exceptional and rare ("If it's the 69 you were expecting me," to misappropriate a 007 line...), as the region's co-op wineries are the best place (they have the stock and resources) to find these genuine one-offs, outside of literally a handful of generations-old winegrowing families who still have a few precious old bottles stashed away.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">Smells and tastes unbelievably 'young' still, immensely complex lingering aromas and flavours conjuring up tangy baked pecan nuts and those slightly 'gassy' oxidised notes I associate with old Madeira (you have to smell it), very long and elegant finish with so many sweet/sour flavours, the sugar (originally 100 grams per litre (gr/l) residual sugar (RS)) and alcohol (15.5% abv) have almost melted into the background.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The company suggests trying it with chocolate desserts or a selection of those bite-sized puds some restaurants offer; also good with strong-flavoured tangy cheeses like Roquefort or goat's cheese, and of course French people may be inclined to drink a glass with Foie Gras! France €90-€99 (75cl); €98.50 Wein Heuer Germany; €105-€115 Herman Wines, Wijnhuis Oktober, Netherlands & Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">There's a note on Dom Brial's luscious Muscat de Rivesaltes VDN <b><a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2022/08/roussillon-35-whites-and-roses-worthy.html" target="_blank">HERE</a></b> (36 Roussillon whites and rosés).</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnwjf6HfhCYWKDo5ZJ_L9zNQABkU7wGdzUVFljqHktB6ZxzVcxy_iA-7wrXHn8X5zcuoZcoVoiCnVw6G7UfZ_kXv8p9JlV2cqpvX_tQK_ujZkbkZjAfGkFF06Y5-DA_jH6u_gHdZhpMHlIsYTY5__0nHb9-H8T_m5c-ruvpkwNCObEKq3s1tw5uEfr/s579/H%20du%20T.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="579" data-original-width="196" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnwjf6HfhCYWKDo5ZJ_L9zNQABkU7wGdzUVFljqHktB6ZxzVcxy_iA-7wrXHn8X5zcuoZcoVoiCnVw6G7UfZ_kXv8p9JlV2cqpvX_tQK_ujZkbkZjAfGkFF06Y5-DA_jH6u_gHdZhpMHlIsYTY5__0nHb9-H8T_m5c-ruvpkwNCObEKq3s1tw5uEfr/w135-h400/H%20du%20T.png" width="135" /></a></div>Domaine Singla</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Héritage du Temps Rivesaltes</b> 5 Ans d'Age (16% abv, 100 gr/l RS): Macabeu with Grenache blanc; non-vintage blend with average age of about five years matured in casks. Toffee and roast nuts on the nose, lovely sweet vs tangy flavour profile with plenty of character; very nice, classic 'starter' <i>ambré </i>VDN: Singla has stocks of some really old vintages (and much more expensive of course) e.g. 1946! 50cl France €14; €26.95 Netherlands and Belgium.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine Cazes</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Rivesaltes Ambré</b> 2013 (16% abv): 100% Grenache blanc; matured in big century-old tuns until bottling, losing 7% of its volume a year in evaporation. Delicious classic style showing sweetness vs tangy walnut flavours, intricate and multi-layered while powerful yet impeccably balanced. Cazes suggests pairing with Foie Gras <i>mi-cuit</i> (so French), pork in ginger or curried (sounds a good idea), herby cheeses, <i>crème brûlée</i> or nut tart (almond, walnut, hazelnut or why not pecan pie). France €21; UK £16.95-£18.95 half-bottle.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Arnaud de Villeneuve</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4oAv4_p9Pm78c0zTHmeT1gZG7CZN1SxM9hmvtc79ZWDB-4mO-2tSOjnviC0FgIu7eADs7lWkzR7cajrHCpQPbQUJZ9HF3zU1jZYLDGdFnHt00RyqjgqX13nw1q3Ay4qrrVLK4xpTzfRtYelqlnwlRIMFeJ8Tw6e39EaBQAfYGDrzVuEtKNZeutSp7/s393/rivesaltes-ambre-prestige-2002.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="393" data-original-width="184" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4oAv4_p9Pm78c0zTHmeT1gZG7CZN1SxM9hmvtc79ZWDB-4mO-2tSOjnviC0FgIu7eADs7lWkzR7cajrHCpQPbQUJZ9HF3zU1jZYLDGdFnHt00RyqjgqX13nw1q3Ay4qrrVLK4xpTzfRtYelqlnwlRIMFeJ8Tw6e39EaBQAfYGDrzVuEtKNZeutSp7/s320/rivesaltes-ambre-prestige-2002.jpg" width="150" /></a></div><b>Rivesaltes Ambré Tradition</b> 5 Ans d'Age (16% abv, 103 RS): 50% Macabeu, 30% Grenache blanc, 20% Grenache gris; non-vintage blend of VDNs aged for 36 months in vats then 24-36 months in tuns. Appetizing well-blended <i>ambré</i> style, offering a nice mix of tangy aged fruit and sweet finish, concentrated too for the price. France €8.50-€10; CA$17.25.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Rivesaltes Ambré Prestige</b> 2002 (16% abv, 115 RS): 60% Grenache blanc, 30% Macabeu, 10% Grenache gris; matured in a 'solera' system of different-sized casks, bottled in November 2021. Deeper-coloured richer and mellower wine, gorgeous ginger cake flavours, very intense and sweet finish. Twenty years young. €30</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Other white VDNs</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Domaine des Soulanes</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Maury Blanc</b> 2021 (16.5% abv, 86 gr/l RS): 80% Grenache blanc, 20% Grenache gris; bottled early. Fresh and aromatic with yeast-lees notes, intense and lively palate, not so sweet-tasting in the end; more refreshing, less-dessert-y style. France €15.50.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>'Vintage-style' red VDNs</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZYvZVuRtRB8fonpcl9Xln5REdTkqQRojuwk9issgOPhjL6VQM--eN5SG5kkwMoz2aJhgySSiwfNU8_iHT5Z_c3cWG15yjZIkbAQgdxhXNy97H_CV7Y18__ZwaUdxCLqM2cpivT4lf3LwCBphAJxQZMD89ekvEW2lyrICTJs95hCz01D7KCfEWEamm/s919/2-Maury-Grenat.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="719" data-original-width="919" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZYvZVuRtRB8fonpcl9Xln5REdTkqQRojuwk9issgOPhjL6VQM--eN5SG5kkwMoz2aJhgySSiwfNU8_iHT5Z_c3cWG15yjZIkbAQgdxhXNy97H_CV7Y18__ZwaUdxCLqM2cpivT4lf3LwCBphAJxQZMD89ekvEW2lyrICTJs95hCz01D7KCfEWEamm/s320/2-Maury-Grenat.jpg" width="300" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div><b>Domaine des Soulanes</b></div><div><b>Maury Grenat</b> 2021 (16.5% abv, 92 gr/l RS): Grenache noir; vinified in stainless tanks and bottled after a few months. Super wild-fruity nose and flavours with underlying firm tannins, it's well made and nicely balanced; was a touch closed up when I tried it but will be good. UK £20-£22 (Cambridge Wine Merchants); France €15.50-€17.80; Switzerland CHF19.50-21.70.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Domaine Vial Magnères</b></div><div><b>Banyuls Rimage</b> 2018 (16.5% abv, 99 gr/l RS): Grenache noir; aged in stainless tanks and bottled within a year. Enticing sweet fruit aromas and flavours, doesn't come across as that old despite its attractive savoury edges, still quite elegant and vibrant. France €18.50; Switzerland CHF19.90; Germany €21.50-€25.95; Netherlands €27-€31.; US $27; Denmark Kr200.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Domaine Pouderoux</b></div><div><b>Maury Bio</b> 2019 (15.5% abv): 100% Grenache noir (selected 30 to 50 year-old vines, organic), long maceration, aged in airtight tanks and bottled the following spring. Complex meaty nose, fairly chunky and dense on the palate still, those firm yet integrated tannins making it taste less sweet in the end; beginning to drink now but best keep it for a few years. 50cl France €20; UK £17-£19 (importer: Thorman Hunt).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQA8XQVdAMpt_D_JEb3SQsbN4PijdhfqwOCyLukB2sB2btkXUogId7NY-04EY1mP0ZXxFDwUuq2yayCKq9gV00imrnAfrHE5s5we7etVFPv_upE_qpKAhrUSZBonhmzrejf0_7Bg9Tx-JH7ys4mHUUfcAAW4tSKPzjcxMAkClxfKewCRvznYBFzjDp/s308/Banyuls-Rimage.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="308" data-original-width="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQA8XQVdAMpt_D_JEb3SQsbN4PijdhfqwOCyLukB2sB2btkXUogId7NY-04EY1mP0ZXxFDwUuq2yayCKq9gV00imrnAfrHE5s5we7etVFPv_upE_qpKAhrUSZBonhmzrejf0_7Bg9Tx-JH7ys4mHUUfcAAW4tSKPzjcxMAkClxfKewCRvznYBFzjDp/s16000/Banyuls-Rimage.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div><b>Domaine Cazes - Les Clos de Paulilles</b></div><div><b>Banyuls Rimage</b> 2020 (16.5% abv): 100% Grenache noir, fermented in stainless steel tanks then <i>mutage sur grain</i> and five-week maceration with pumping over to maximise extraction of flavour, colour and tannins; bottled within 18 months. Lovely luscious fruity VDN, well made with lots of dark berry and cherry fruits, and light grip countering the sweetness. France €16 (50cl); UK £16-£22.</div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Aged red VDNs</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQA1eJdQLpC15dhCLqreXvnFRFnUJ0zR8efhWW-Fld6CqnYmRrp7YNsk4ZUgVtInoFs2tZOKTc_UPrURBdpmGIw7q4OF0GNti8y8ogXRAMeTYxKKlF24be07d3Gp20pCy2KCeFCnVxn4xAGgLT45Oq1qYCjRasoE0gkxfx6zVMfg_95bT39Yfyk5QZ/s233/gaby-vial-7-ans-dage.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="233" data-original-width="135" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQA1eJdQLpC15dhCLqreXvnFRFnUJ0zR8efhWW-Fld6CqnYmRrp7YNsk4ZUgVtInoFs2tZOKTc_UPrURBdpmGIw7q4OF0GNti8y8ogXRAMeTYxKKlF24be07d3Gp20pCy2KCeFCnVxn4xAGgLT45Oq1qYCjRasoE0gkxfx6zVMfg_95bT39Yfyk5QZ/s16000/gaby-vial-7-ans-dage.jpg" /></a></div>Domaine Vial Magnères</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Gaby Vial Banyuls</b> 7 ans d'âge (16.5% abv, 80 RS): Mostly Grenache noir with Grenache gris (about 70 years old) matured oxidatively in old tuns; the blend contains wines with an average age of seven years. More obviously (deliberately) oxidised with savoury meaty aromas, less sweet on the palate with appealing balancing bite of tannin / alcohol; delicious lingering flavours. €19.50</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Cuvée André Magnères Banyuls</b> Grand Cru 2009 (17.5% abv, 98 RS): 100% Grenache noir, aged for 10 years in cask. Super intense VDN with brown-orange-red colour, actually quite firm still and tangy vs long sweet finish. Wow. €43</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkuRZ8JKYdt50u1snVwqFeE69fU_mJYe6L_nxQmGvDduKmbZ1qB5hl-lvwSfSZwHRZUCh3jzuArVRAizo0ay4Pcjc0o4IKiKFcucTkgfSk9EZQNhHY9WrfzKvKXB0JHU2BTb1TRY3lXnNdBmDPd4kJnjOdIwNO7uYi6OPunl5z909pR-FBX_14L-iw/s350/tuil%C3%A9-rivesaltes-2001-nadal.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="350" data-original-width="274" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkuRZ8JKYdt50u1snVwqFeE69fU_mJYe6L_nxQmGvDduKmbZ1qB5hl-lvwSfSZwHRZUCh3jzuArVRAizo0ay4Pcjc0o4IKiKFcucTkgfSk9EZQNhHY9WrfzKvKXB0JHU2BTb1TRY3lXnNdBmDPd4kJnjOdIwNO7uYi6OPunl5z909pR-FBX_14L-iw/s320/tuil%C3%A9-rivesaltes-2001-nadal.png" width="200" /></a></div>Chateau Nadal Hainaut</b></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b>Rivesaltes Tuilé</b> 2001 (16% abv, 113 RS): 100% Grenache noir <i>muté sur grains</i> and aged for 7 years in barrels outdoors. Gorgeous oxidised candied nose of raisins and roses, sweet dried damson fruit is offset by a lightly grainy texture; still has a bit of life in it yet. Cellar door €21 50cl.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbxPV9gd7ZiF36AVhXOk52eNYK68uIatHJcyAqQMDp0oX8JZMFEetJO9uWUa9l-wEUWReXG2meWJLQv_f0T6SVvs3mjcTyQNd2Yjd5GT1TxK-w0ZbkopRQ0fz6lXOOLSauHWvPuQKnj0RFg-R3XwJxtU1FKUhwPRlssQb2TPGt7_KVjWvMDPVU4qwq/s634/ranfio-seco.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="634" data-original-width="137" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbxPV9gd7ZiF36AVhXOk52eNYK68uIatHJcyAqQMDp0oX8JZMFEetJO9uWUa9l-wEUWReXG2meWJLQv_f0T6SVvs3mjcTyQNd2Yjd5GT1TxK-w0ZbkopRQ0fz6lXOOLSauHWvPuQKnj0RFg-R3XwJxtU1FKUhwPRlssQb2TPGt7_KVjWvMDPVU4qwq/w86-h400/ranfio-seco.jpg" width="100" /></a></div>By the way, also made by <b>Domaine Vial Magnères</b> in Banyuls-sur-mer are a couple of extraordinary <i>Rancio Sec</i> wines, one 'white' and one 'red'. Neither of them is fortified nor sweet - these wines are utterly dry in fact but don't fit in style-wise with the other dry Roussillon wines reviewed in my previous three articles. They have an elevated alcohol level in common with VDNs but naturally so, not fortified, of about 16% abv. They are categorised as IGP Côte Vermeille Rancio Sec and cost €19.50 per 50cl cellar door.</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The white is called <b>Ranfio Cino</b> crafted from 70 year-old Grenache gris (80%) and Grenache blanc (20%), which is matured in cask for 6 to 10 years under a 'veil' of natural yeast growth, similar to certain sherries that it resembles in colour, smell and taste (very nutty, yeasty, tangy; perhaps something like an aged Fino in style). Food-wise, think squid, anchovies, cured ham, bisque...</div><div style="text-align: justify;">The wacky red <b>Ranfio Seco</b> is based on Grenache noir (70%) and Grenache gris (30%) undergoing a 4-week maceration and oxidative ageing for more than 10 years. It's immensely intense, complex and tangy tasting like little else I've ever tried, it could keep forever; they suggest drinking it with lobster (I can see that). In addition, the winery holds small stocks of Banyuls <i>Rancio </i>called Al Tragou dating from the 1980s, which is a traditional long-aged Banyuls VDN not a <i>rancio sec</i>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Other recent Roussillon posts:</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2022/08/roussillon-south-centre-16-reds-to.html" target="_blank">Reds from the south and centre</a></b>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b><a href="https://www.winewriting.com/2022/07/roussillon-north-27-reds-to-knock-your.html" target="_blank">Reds from the north</a></b>.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div>Richard Mark Jameshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17805073013318066375noreply@blogger.com0