“I’d like a nice Chardonnay please...”

Restaurant magazine 31 October 2001 issue

“I’d like a nice Chardonnay please.”

“We have Red Ridge in a frosted blue bottle or Windswept Gorge with a slick minimalist label.”

“Which is the best?”

“Well, they taste the same, but the Windswept Gorge looks sharper.”

Hopefully this isn’t a conversation you’ll hear in a restaurant, but there’s no denying trendy packaging is one way to make your bottle stand out from the rest. This is particularly true, of course, of producers trying to grab the drinker’s bewildered eye, when confronted with shelves full of enticing names, bottles, grapes and regions. But does the look of a wine play an increasing role in selecting in a restaurant – for the proprietor or the punter – where usually we go on a name, a recognisable style, a vintage or the sommelier’s recommendation?

The invasion of clever branded wordplay and gimmicky bottles has already taken hold in the retail sector, with varying success and quality of the liquid inside. What ever happened to Bend in the River, a ‘new wave’ German in a tall, curvy bottle? The wine wasn’t bad, just dull and overpriced. There’s the Pendulum duo, Australian Chardonnay and Italian Zinfandel dressed to kill in sexy silver outfit, which admittedly both taste good. Or Miranda White Pointer, a passable dry white adorned with shark hologram appearing when sufficiently chilled; pretty and practical. Deep Purple Shiraz, all 70s glitz and confected flavours. Fat Bastard Chardonnay, Old Git red; actually decent French wines but how well would they sell otherwise?

This kind of visual or sense of humour seduction may become more important in the on-trade e.g. All Bar One where the wines are racked on shelves behind the bar. The heavyweight, flat-top bottle has been with us for a while and high profile brands packaged thus, such as California’s Robert Mondavi or Chile’s Cono Sur, suit the restaurant table well, where the name probably counts. The attraction of such brands is obvious: familiar, perhaps uncomplicated, consistent and they sell easily without explanation.

The buff or snob appeal of traditional names of fine wines, quality aside, will always be a big pull for some customers, whatever they look like. Listing top Burgundies or Barolos can be commendable and impressive but doesn’t necessarily match the establishment or offer value. For example, Manchester’s rated Pacific restaurant offers innovative Thai and Chinese dishes and a fantastic wine list brimming with famous Bordeaux reds; but do they go the food?

Australian wine continues to storm ahead...

For Restaurant magazine launch issue October 2001

Australian wine continues to storm ahead in supermarkets and wine shops, although enthusiastic predictions of it overtaking France to secure pole position are perhaps premature. At the moment Oz doesn’t seem to be seriously threatening the stronghold of French wines in restaurants, reckoned to account for nearly half of all bottles opened, but that could easily change (and already has when considering the wine list in an average bar). If so, will we see yet more formulaic branded Chardonnay and Shiraz rather than higher quality, individual wines, or other unusual (but arguably less saleable) offerings such as dry Aussie Riesling, which can be ideal with Asian dishes, for example?

It’ll be harder work still in getting the message across to the server and drinker about the screw cap closures recently introduced on many fine Clare Valley (north of Adelaide) Rieslings such as Knappstein, Wakefield and Mount Horrocks. The producers are convinced it beats cork or plastic hands down for this style of unoaked aromatic white, in terms of protection and development of the wine or no chance of musty taint. And they aren’t the only ones: several New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs – a more familiar proposition in restaurants – such as Jackson Estate, Kim Crawford and Wither Hills (courageously all premium quality and price), have been sealed with screw caps from the 2001 vintage. So get used to it, it’s the future!

But France has already hit back with value for money, well made wines from the South, which are perhaps more style friendly for younger drinkers than traditional, complicated and overpriced Burgundy and Bordeaux (however good). These include fruity, rounded but characterful Vins de Pays or ‘country wines’ made from trendy grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon or Viognier, which can produce seductively perfumed yet full-bodied whites. I’d also like to see more reds on lists from established areas of the Languedoc-Roussillon such as Fitou, Corbières and Saint-Chinian, where talented winemakers are proving themselves beyond doubt and often at great prices!

Other countries are focusing their efforts on the on-trade too. Chile, established as a reliable provider of easy-going and tasty varietal wines but witnessing a fairly static market share, is now impressing with higher quality. Leading wineries such as Errázuriz and Cono Sur, and smaller producers like Thierry Villard, Viña Gracia and Viña Casa Silva, are getting results with top Pinot Noirs and Merlots, for example. In addition, Chile has Carmenère up its sleeve, a ‘reject’ red Bordeaux variety, which is delivering many interesting wines in the country’s warmer regions and showing its hand as something unique in a cluttered wine world.

Pink paradise

Written for www.therestaurantgame.com

Historically sales of rosé wines in restaurants have been hampered by narrow-minded, outdated perceptions - sweet, wimpy, inferior red - bolstered by the high profile of certain brands and styles. Surely things have moved on, particularly as New World producers are delivering rosés bursting with vivid colour and juicy fruit?

Pink paradise

Let’s not forget the long tradition of making dry rosés in Mediterranean countries - mostly red wine producers so no shortage of suitable grapes - to drink something in the summer with enough body to go with food, yet which retains the refreshing edge of a chilled white.

Looking around, there’s never been such a wide selection available with plenty of different styles and prices, overall pretty even quality and some wines displaying reassuringly familiar grape varieties on the label.

Regions and grapes

• The Loire Valley offers sometimes rather insipid, medium dry/sweet rosés like Rosé d’Anjou but also better ones such as Cabernet d’Anjou or dry Rosé de la Loire; main grapes are Grolleau and Cabernet Franc. Less common are Sancerre rosé made from Pinot Noir and sparkling, delicately pink Crémant. It’s permitted for rosé Champagne to be a blend of red and white base wines.

• Southern France is known for its full-bodied, dry and sometimes alcoholic rosés such as Tavel from the southern Rhône Valley or Collioure from Roussillon. Provence produces good wines too, the best arguably from the Coteaux d’Aix or Bandol close to Marseille - grapes used include Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre.

• Northeast Spain has several classic dry rosados; in particular look out for the regions of Navarra, Rioja and Penedès, where Garnacha (same as Grenache) holds sway.

• Portugal gave us Mateus rosé, but you do also come across higher quality alternatives from areas such as Bairrada.

• California is responsible for foisting ‘White’ Zinfandel or Blush onto the world, which can be rather sweet and nasty. However, we’re now seeing serious contenders entering the rosé frame made from Syrah and other southern French varieties.

• The ever-increasing popularity of Australia will undoubtedly help to change those image problems, as it’s capable of very drinkable and vibrantly fruity rosés, the most visible brand being Hardy’s Stamp Grenache/Shiraz.

• South America hasn’t been slow to get in on the rosé revival - Chile and Argentina are selling good examples made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Syrah/Shiraz.

• Italy’s rosés aren’t found much (except Lambrusco) but hail from north (subtle and delicate) to south (full and earthy) and the islands too; grapes used as per reds of each particular region.

• South African producer Fairview launched a comic tribute red and rosé last year called ‘Goats do Roam’ (a pun on Côtes du Rhône).

The finest rosés are made from free-run juice drained or ‘bled’ off - hence the French expression Saignée or Spanish Sangrado - shortly after crushing (or from pressing the must gently), having macerated with the skins of red grapes for a few hours or even a day; the length of time depends on the variety and how much colour the winemaker wants. The juice is then fermented, preferably fairly cool to preserve fresh aromas and fruit, and made like a white wine. All of the wines tasted here are produced like this. Only the heartiest, more expensive styles will improve a little in bottle, so make sure you buy the youngest possible.

(All prices are ex VAT and approx. retail as a guide)

Ratings - points out of ten

D - Desirability on the wine list

V - Value for money

Q - Quality

R - Rating of vintage

S - State of readiness

1) Château Méaume Bordeaux Rosé 2000, France £4.67 Majestic

Unclean on the nose to start, but it does go with a bit of air, leaving creamy red fruits and good acidity. Very full bodied thanks to a whopping 14% alcohol, which is clumsy on the finish and demands food.

D8 V7 Q6 R9 S8

2) ‘Cavalchina’ Bardolino Chiaretto 2000, Italy £4.25 Majestic

Lightly fragrant, floral and currant aromas coupled with tangy cherry fruit and spritzy CO² on the palate; elegant, understated flavour and mouth-watering acidity too.

D6 V8 Q7 R8 S10

3) Santa Julia Syrah Rosé 2001, Mendoza, Argentina £4.25 Thierry’s

Improved after being open for a few hours to reveal youthful tangy fruit, but it ends up rather bland and like boiled sweets.

D7 V6 69 R8 S9

4) Fetzer Syrah Rosé 2000, California £5.10 Brown Forman/Fetzer

Amazingly deep colour; full and fruity with a touch of spice too, this is quite rich and off-dry - the one for red drinkers but without the tannin. Very Californian.

D9 V7 Q8 R8 S9

5) Chivite ‘Gran Feudo’ Rosado 2000, Navarra, Spain £3.82 Oddbins

Nice gentle, aromatic redcurrant and strawberry fruit, which builds in intensity; elegant, crisp and well-made, quite long and stylish finish. Good with shellfish.

D8 V9 Q8 R8 S9

6) Château Julia ‘Amethystos’ Rosé 2000, Macedonia, Greece £5.52 Oddbins

Very aromatic roses, raspberry and cherry; good concentration and weight with attractive creamy yet tangy fruit showing long, balanced acidity. Try with meatier fish or chicken.

D9 V7 Q9 R8 S8

7) Saint Roch-les-Vignes Côtes de Provence Rosé 1999, France £3.82 Majestic

Almond, dried petals and wild strawberry on the nose; quite full in the mouth with reasonable acidity and length, although fruit is fading and getting a bit old (but it’s better with food).

D8 V9 Q7 R7 S10

8) Abbaye Sylva Plana Faugères Rosé 2000, France, £4.25 Majestic

Not forthcoming on the nose at first but develops earthy, wild berry tones; very full and punchy (13.5% alcohol), not so subtle or fruity but again good foodie.

D7 V7 Q7 R9 S9

9) Valdivieso Malbec Rosé 2001, Chile, £3.82 Majestic

This unusual rosé is well made, light and crisp with bags of zesty red fruits; good acidity and medium weight to finish.

D8 V9 Q8 R9 S9

Stars of the Languedoc-Roussillon

A few notes written in August 2001 as mock-ups for a wine book publisher...

1999 ‘Les Hauts de Força Réal’ rouge, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (£10-15)

Producer: J-P Henriquès

Grape varieties: Mostly Syrah with Grenache and Mourvèdre.

Jean-Paul Henriquès’ beautiful 4-hectare property Força Réal is located at Millas perched high up in the Roussillon hills above Perpignan and offers staggering views towards the Mediterranean and, in the other direction, the Pyrenees and Spain beyond. ‘Les Hauts’ is Jean-Paul’s top red wine made in small quantities and much sought after in France. It has deep ruby colour, heady aromas of vanilla and toasty wood, but this is then backed up by gutsy yet vibrant wild fruits, rich and concentrated followed by fair tannic grip at the moment; nevertheless, it shows finesse and great promise.

The grapes come from old vines planted on slopes with schist and alluvium soils and are strictly selected by hand. This results in very low yields of 25 hectolitres per hectare, structure and concentrated flavour.

Winemaking: Long traditional maceration on the skins to extract plenty of colour, fruit and tannins; aged in new oak barrels for 18 – 20 months.

Food recommendations: The locals would probably drink it with a rich Catalan lamb stew or perhaps a wild mushroom and cheese risotto.

Força Réal also produces an unusual dry white from Malvoisie and Grenache blanc grapes, a delicious fortified Muscat de Rivesaltes and multifaceted Rivesaltes Hors d'Age, which is matured for a minimum 12 years in oak and where the wines in the blend average 50 years of age.

Michel Laroche ‘South of France’

Producer: Mas la Chevalière/Michel Laroche.

Owned by the eponymous Chablis king, who’s invested plenty of money and time into singling out and replanting the best vineyard sites around Béziers and the hills inland. He bought the estate Mas la Chevalière in 1995, renovated its idyllic Mediterranean villa and built a shiny modern winery next door. Since then viticulturalist Richard Lavanoux and winemaker Yves Barry have been experimenting with different varieties from their own vineyards and those sourced from local growers demonstrating the right potential, suitable soils and terroirs and willingness to focus on quality by reducing yields. The backbone of the range is Chardonnay, Merlot and Syrah, which they say are giving the best results.

1998 ‘La Croix Chevalière’, Vin de Pays d’Oc (£10-15)

Grape varieties: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.

Top of the Michel Laroche ‘France-Sud’ hierarchy, this red is made only in great vintages and in limited quantity. The best fruit is picked out from stony, hillside sites around Béziers and from the Cévennes foothills. Dense in colour with cedary oak and chocolatey black fruit style, this complex wine has dry yet silky tannins and lots of supple fruit on the finish, suggesting a ripe year Bordeaux/Rhone cross.

Winemaking: Punching down of the ‘cap’ and pumping over with 3 weeks’ maceration on the skins to extract rich colour, body and tannins; aged in French and American oak barrels (one third new) for 18 months, no filtration.

Food recommendations: roast game poultry, smoked bacon and spinach.

Next come the terroir wines sourced from selected parcels of vines and bearing a vineyard name – Labech Merlot, Peyroli Chardonnay and Roqua Blanca Syrah (£7.50-10) – followed by fruit-focused varietals (£5-7.50).

1999 Mas Champart ‘Clos de la Simonette’, Saint-Chinian (£10-15)

Producer: Isabelle & Matthew Champart.

Grape varieties: Mourvèdre, Syrah and Carignan.

One of the stars of St-Chinian (northeast of Narbonne and an area we’ll definitely be seeing more of), which boasts an impressive range of traditional reds culminating in this densely structured, tannic and smoky blockbuster.

1999 Château de Pennautier Collection Privée rouge, Cabardès (£5-7.50)

Producer: Vignobles Lorgeril.

Grape varieties: Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc.

Recently promoted to Appellation Contrôlée status, the Cabardès region north of the medieval city of Carcassonne shows great promise. Rustic and smoky with aromas of blackcurrant and mulberry mixed with hints of spice and cocoa; full-bodied with rich, chewy and spicy blackberry; some oak and firm tannins but plenty of earthy ripe fruit. They also produce a barrel-fermented, tropical fruity, New World-style Chardonnay.

2000 Viognier Collection Gérard Bertrand, Vin de Pays d’Oc

Producer: Gérard Bertrand.

Located in northern Corbières, Gérard is also making high quality varietals such as this intensely apricoty, rich and spicy dry white. Don’t miss his 1999 Carignan Vieilles Vignes, which shows concentration and liquorice fruit on the length, or rustic but mellow 1998 Cigalus Rouge, a Cabernet/Merlot blend.

1997 Domaine du Mas Blanc ‘les Cosprons Levants’, Collioure (£15-20)

Producer: Jean-Michel Parcé.

Grape varieties: Mourvèdre, Syrah and Counoise.

Classic full-flavoured red from this picturesque coastal village almost bordering Spain, it delivers an amazing fragrance of wildflowers and herbs, earthy ‘resin’ fruit and ‘sweet’ ripe length. Takes a bit of getting used to!

1999 Picpoul de Pinet ‘les Flacons’, Coteaux du Languedoc (£10-15)

Grape variety: Picpoul.

This is a fine example of the speciality dry whites unique to the area around the town of Pinet to the west and inland of Sète. It’s initially characterised by the oak treatment showing opulent yeast lees and malolactic fermentation traits (makes the wine softer and creamy), but the excellent length of flavour and concentration conclude with tighter mineral and ‘stony’ fruit undertones. Thrillingly unusual.

1999 Ermitage du Pic Saint-Loup, Coteaux du Languedoc (£5-7.50)

Producer: Ravaille Estate.

Grape varieties: 60% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre.

Quite firm, meaty, savoury and food-demanding red from this respected property in Pic Saint-Loup, which nestles (relatively) undiscovered at an altitude of 300m in the northern reaches of the region. Made by traditional winemaking and bottled unfiltered; again super value for money.

Definitive Italian Wine Tasting

Written for www.therestaurantgame.com

The Chelsea Village Galleria at Stamford Bridge provided a powerfully green backdrop to the now annual ‘Definitive Italian Wine Tasting’ on 11th July. But all the action took place on white-clothed tables laden with bottles and thankfully in more than 90 minutes, as there were plenty of new wines and vintages to try. Producers and importers could only show mid-priced wines and upwards, meaning lower quality volume wines were excluded.

Having previously focused on the up-and-coming south of Italy, a separate area was dedicated to Chianti Classico with a cross-section of vintages and styles. Generally speaking, the just released 1999s and ‘97s looked the best, ‘98s a bit lacking in substance (although some drinking nicely now) but surprisingly few of the ‘96s and ‘95s impressed. Particularly striking were: 1997 Castello di Brolio (Enotria Winecellars 020 8963 4820), ‘99 Poggio de’ Sassiduri from Cantina Leonardo (Liberty Wines 020 7720 5350), ‘99 ‘Paris’ Monte Bernardi (Richards Walford 01780 460451), ‘98 Le Massi di Greve (H&H Bancroft 0780 444 1700) and ‘97 Riserva Villa la Pagliaia (Meridian Wines 0161 908 1350).

Italy’s exciting and endearing trademark is its myriad obscure yet characterful local grapes. Amongst whites we discovered the rich, complex and herby 1999 Fiano di Avellino ‘Terre di Dora’ (Winetraders 01865 251851) from the hills inland and east of Naples; good value, peachy and mineral 2000 ‘Terre in Fiore’ made from 100% Garganega from the Veneto (Liberty Wines 020 7720 5350); superior ’99 Orvieto produced from no less than 5 grapes – Procanico, Verdello, Grechetto, Malvasia and Drupeggio – by Palazzone (The Winery 020 7286 6475); and zesty, dry and aromatic ‘00 Prosecco di Valdobbidene ‘Sassi Bianchi’, which is usually sparkling (Sommelier’s Choice 020 8689 9643).

The strength and breadth of Italy’s reds is even more beguiling and extraordinary: Anna Maria Abbona’s 1999 Dolcetto from the Langhe in Piemonte (Mille Gusti 020 8997 3932) demonstrated the lovely, pure cherry fruit this grape can offer when made oak-free. Sicily is happily fulfilling its potential, as the rich ripe ’98 Passomaggio Rosso (Nero d’Avola and Merlot) from Santa Anastasia showed with its ‘tar and tobacco’ finish (John Armit 020 7908 0600)! Also from the south – Puglia region – Masseria Pepe had a delicious, intense and liquoricey ’99 Primitivo (very hip variety) called Dunico (Meridian Wines 0161 908 1350).

Champagne trip

"The Eurostar cuts a pastel-painted blur through the spacious rural canvass like an Impressionist on speed; it’s only really when you get to Paris that it sinks in you’ve arrived in northern France, without the more customary touchdown. At about an hour and a half’s drive from the reluctant-to-leave capital, Champagne is the nearest and easiest French wine region for us to visit. And it’s pretty, green, warm in the summer, suffused with rolling hills; and they make Champagne there, so lots of good reasons..."

Read the works at the bottom of this special Champagne page here.

Swiss wines

Written for www.therestaurantgame.com

Hidden elegance

The Swiss have kept a bit hush-hush about their wines until quite recently – a tasting in London last year organised by the Exporters’ Association proved to be an eye-opener, and they exhibited at this year’s Restaurant Show. Images of mountains, snow and great lakes don’t perhaps automatically conjure up vineyards, but wine is made in similar environments elsewhere in the world, not to mention just across the borders in France and Italy. Overall production is very small with only 15000 hectares of vines planted, and yields are quite low; in addition, a mere 1% of this is exported at the moment.

Although the different regions vary in climate, terrain and soil, the wine styles – just over half being aromatic whites – are generally elegant and lighter but also diverse. Elegance isn’t exactly fashionable in the UK right now, but the wines offer some variety in the face of full-bodied and richly fruity southern hemisphere styles, and maybe more obvious food compatibility. Annie Schwab, owner with her Swiss husband chef at 2 Star Michelin restaurant Winteringham Fields in Lincolnshire, agrees: “we serve delicate food here - and of course Rösti and dishes using Swiss cheeses - which suits Swiss wines.”

Unusual grapes

So which grape varieties are planted and where and what are the wines like? The main wine cantons are: Neuchâtel, Vaud and Geneva in the west; Valais in the south-west; Ticino in the south bordering Italy, Zürich and the small area of Schaffhausen in the north-east touching Germany. White grapes include familiar names such as Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon and Pinot Gris; and new discoveries like Chasselas (also known as Fendant) and Petite Arvine. Reds include Pinot Noir and Merlot but also Gamay, Cornalin and Humagne rouge.

The Valais is the largest wine region and at least one third of total Swiss production is sourced here from the steep slopes of the upper Rhône valley; the split is 45 - 55 white to red. Fendant/Chasselas is abundant and can be a bit dull – Charles Bonvin Fils makes a decent example at Domaine Brûlefer called ‘Fendant de Sion’ 1998, which is zesty, ‘lees-y’ and crisp.

Petite Arvine

This is a modest-yielding, ancient variety (probably originating in Italy) and can naturally attain 12 to 13% alcohol giving full-bodied wines. One of the most interesting comes from René Favre, a rich barrel aged wine with honeyed spice and long acidity called ‘St. Pierre Grande Année’, and the 1997 is listed at Ransom’s Dock in London’s Battersea for £28.00. Proprietor Martin Lam comments: “All three (Swiss wines) sell well - bought by lovers of good wine, Swiss and otherwise!” Other producers of quality Petite Arvine in Valais include Robert Gilliard and Caves Imesch; the latter’s 1997 is £35 on Winteringham Fields’ list. Obscure grapes may add quirky interest to a country and a wine list, but will people buy something they don’t recognise? Annie Schwab adds: “We list sixteen Swiss wines and you’ve got to sell them; provided the sommelier knows something about them, they can recommend with certain dishes.”

On the Dôle

The red speciality of Valais is Dôle, which can be made from 100% Pinot Noir or (more usually) blended with a smaller proportion of Gamay (the Beaujolais grape) and even a tad of other varieties such as Syrah. The style depends on the winemaker - Caves Imesch produces an attractively fruity and spicy one called ‘Soleil de Sierre’; Frédéric Varone’s ‘Valeria’ is more serious and closer to Burgundy.

Pinot Noir also makes some attractive dry rosés – Ransom’s Dock sells ’99 ‘Oeil-de-Perdrix’ made by Les Perrières (Geneva) for £16.50 and by the glass too – and is the staple grape in German Switzerland. Red wines dominate too in the Italian speaking province of Ticino, where Merlot has virtually replaced all local varieties. Tamborini Vini craft some lovely, full-flavoured and earthy (although rather expensive) Merlots such as the 1994 San Zeno Riserva listed at Winteringham Fields for £41.

Value?

Switzerland’s biggest hurdle will be to convince people that their wines are worth the money. Robert Steel from specialist importer For the Love of Wine, who represents Favre, Tamborini, les Perrières and Imesch amongst others, is aware of this but upbeat. “Price is an issue but these are quality wines in an equivalent price bracket to others at the quality end of the market. Restaurants tend to be more at the top end.” Further stockists include Pont de la Tour, Hotels du Vin and Babbington House. Of course Swiss restaurants are natural outlets for the wines and should find it easier to sell them; St. Moritz in Soho imports its own from Caves Orsat and has red and white house wines for a relatively reasonable £12.95.

Awareness

Brian Walling of Beck Marketing, who’s involved in the generic promotion of Swiss wine, expands on the issues. “It’s started to take off in the on-trade but has been hampered by the fact that Swiss wines don’t have entry level price points, like for example wines in supermarkets written about by journalists which help to raise awareness with the public and restaurateurs.” This is obviously key to success – Juniper restaurant in Altrincham just south of Manchester, who list a Swiss dessert wine, agree: “we’re trying to educate people and get them to be more adventurous.” Walling continues: “It’s been a long hard slog but there are now about 30 different distributors serving the on-trade nationally or locally.”

These include For the Love of Wine (tel. 01280 822500), Harrison Vintners in the City (020 7236 7716) and St. Martin Vintners in Brighton (01273 777788). For further information contact the Swiss Wine Exporters’ Association (020 7287 6117) or Beck Marketing (020 7582 8811).

Bordeaux travel, in brief...

"I feel like a Château-tourist celebrity-spotting as the grand and famous village names stroll serenely by through the coach window: Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, Saint-Estèphe... If you’re into wine and in particular Bordeaux red wine, a drive up the D2 road northwest of the city along the Gironde estuary offers a taste of the style, elegance and opulence..."

Read it HERE.

Portuguese pleasures

Published on www.everywine.co.uk

"Portugal has much to offer beyond Port," writes Richard James. Find out the low-down on the country's sun-drenched wines...

Portugal does indeed offer far more than Port. There are unfamiliar but intriguing local grapes, diverse wine-styles and warm people who actually seem to like the Brits. Portugal also offers a great range of wine-producing climates. Portuguese wine producers have benefited from grants given by the EU to modernise their wineries and improve their vineyards. So why aren’t we buying many of their wines? Is their exotic language a barrier? A fear of the unknown perhaps? Part of the problem lies in the fact that many British wine-drinkers are reluctant to explore beyond Port at Christmas and Mateus Rosé. Read the full feature at the bottom of my page on Portugal here.

Spain: CVNE and Contino old and rare Rioja

Tutored tasting of CVNE and Contino old and rare Riojas

by winemaker Jesús Madrazo Mateo

St. Stephens Club, London SW1, 21 March 2001

"I was chuffed bordering on surprised at my apparent organisation surrounding three days of events from 20 – 22 March: train ticket from Manchester purchased sufficiently in advance to get the £20 fare, several tastings slotting neatly into place around the big Spanish affair including a tutored Italian on the Wednesday morning, if I/they got my/their skates on. Then the above, last minute-ish invitation landed in my inbox (I’ll resist any facetious speculation about second-tier bums-on-seats). I thought about it for perhaps 1.6 seconds – sorry ICE (Italian trade office) but I guess I’m a tasting-slut. So, time to squeeze in the Swiss first... “I’m afraid, sir, we’re going to have a problem… you can’t wear jeans upstairs,” informs the ‘bouncer’ at the Institute of Directors. Pity they didn’t mention that on the invitation, methinks. Still, there’s nothing like some time to kill in a wet and miserable Westminster to enhance your anticipation (caught a wet and miserable cold afterwards, from memory). On to St. Stephens Club – looks a bit posh. I wonder if you can wear jeans…"

Viña Real Gran Reservas – sourced from their vineyards close to El Ciego in Rioja Alavesa in the north of the region. (E = excellent, VG = very good and G = good, according to official vintage rating by the Rioja Consejo Regulador. Approx retail prices per bottle indicated after notes.)

1952 (E) – still has amazing colour, browning and red brick but good intensity for its age. First bottle was very mushroomy; the cork had fungi on it. The second was totally different with smoky and balsamic tones, a bit oxidised and ‘cheesy’ but delivering nice sweet (dried) red fruits and a touch of earthiness. Silky dried red fruits in the mouth with some dry tannin on the finish coupled with light, mature liquorice flavours. Quite good length but has the fruit gone? In retrospect, not really as it did actually develop and open up after 2 hours! Paradoxically, it doesn’t taste as old as you’d expect. Jesús commented that he believes they used much more Graciano in the varietal blend than they do now (these wines are mostly Tempranillo). (£150+)

1964 (E) – showing greater depth of colour in the middle with brown/orange outside. Beautiful classic mature Rioja nose with plenty of volume of intense ‘cheesy’, leathery dried fruits; concentrated red fruits on the palate give way to liquorice with a bit of alcohol on the finish and moderate tannins still adding grip. Lovely length, the fruit is still rich and lingering. (£80-85)

1970 (VG) – not as deep in appearance as above but perhaps displaying similar age character; pungent and leathery on the nose the fruit is less obvious. Fuller in the mouth with more extract and firmer tannins on the finish, again liquoricey but perhaps it’s more closed (or less concentrated). However the flavours certainly linger with warm alcohol and higher acidity. (£72-78)

1975 (VG) – looks older and thinner with odd herbaceous asparagus aromas; this carries through to the palate but supported by some liquorice and surprisingly cooked fruit. Firm tannins rather contrast and jar with rapidly maturing fruit. (£35-45)

1981 (VG) – appears quite brown and light with some red in the middle; caramelized sweet liquorice aromas but fruit is also a bit reticent (and minty too). Smooth vanilla texture enhanced by red fruits but it’s beginning to oxidise; fading tannins manage to keep it up on the finish for the moment. (£50-60)

1982 (E) – much deeper and less advanced in colour; bit 'dusty' on the nose but rather closed although there are hints of game and spice. Rich and concentrated in the mouth, again liquorice and red fruits, with lovely length and quite firm finish; this still needs time! (£92-98)

1991 (VG) – showing just a hint of browning, the first bottle is a little more farmyard-y than you might like (we conclude it’s brettanomyces.) but full with sweet oak. The second has greater volume on the nose, rich and gamey but lots of sweet fruit too; lush and smooth, big concentrated fruit with liquoricey hints and great intensity and weight. Moderate to firm tannins but silky and good acidity too. The ’91 is made from 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha and Mazuelo, and 5% Graciano. 5 days fermentation in stainless vats controlled at below 33 degrees, followed by malo-lactic fermentation in barrel and 4 years ageing in American and French oak. (£18-25)

Comments – the winemaking is very similar between VR and Imperial; it’s a question of "source material" determining the style, although perhaps they do a slightly longer maceration with VR. Both are racked every 6 months or so. All are fermented with indigenous yeasts and the malo usually starts naturally too. 

Imperial Gran Reservas – made from 50+ year old vines yielding around 4 tonnes/ha; 85-90% Tempranillo, about 10% Graciano and a tad of Mazuelo (all Rioja Alta fruit from their high vineyards around Villalba northwest of Haro.) 

1970 – quite intense big colour but browning a touch; full and gamey nose, attractively pungent but with plenty of dried fruits too. Lively ripe red fruits in the mouth; concentrated, smoky and herby and offering quite firm tannins on its sound length. Lovely. (£65-75)

1975 – looks older than above, very perfumed with a hint of mushroom but also sweet red fruits, which carry through to the palate; rich and velvety with concentrated cherry and liquorice plus a tad earthy too, super length and quite firm but less grip than the ’70; fair acidity and alcohol complement the finish. (£35-45)

1982 – big colour and still fairly youthful, powerful nose delivering lots of wild fruits with floral and spicy nuances; getting gamey but ripe and sweet too, reasonable grip coupled with nice fruit, weight and length. Very good but perhaps lacks the elegance/class of above, then again it might develop better. (£85-95)

1987 (VG) – showing just a hint of age, surprisingly intense colour; full-on ripe fruit with vanilla wood lurking in the background and light ‘cheesiness’ too. Rich and earthy, lots of fruit to counter the oak with gamier finish, firm dry tannins and high-ish acidity. Needs time. (£32-38)

1991 – similar colour to above, perhaps a shade more orange; quite sweet fruit on the nose and oaky with it, but that sweet fruit is quite concentrated in the mouth although actually oxidising a bit too; quite firm and long with some noticeable acidity, but lacks elegance somehow. (£20-25)

1994 (E) – very deep and full, red/purple; quite closed aromas, a tad herby and minty with black cherry fruit. Fiery and rich, very concentrated with monster tannins, oak and acidity too and bold elongated finish. A long way to go yet! (£25-30)

1995 (E) Real de Asúa Reserva – pretty youthful looking but less intense than above, perfumed toasty vanilla oak and up-front black cherry fruit followed by more wood, extracted and fruity. Attractive now but lacks elegance (nearly 14% too). Fermented in barrel and left for 5 weeks in total, then transferred to (more) French oak for malo. (£40-50)

Contino Reservas – the first single-estate Rioja they produced, the grapes come from a 62 ha property near Laserna in the Alavesa, which is owned 50/50 by the family and CVNE. The old (11th Century) farmhouse and cellars were renovated in 1974 and a new winery fitted in situ to re-create a ‘Chateau’ concept. Vintage is usually earlier here than elsewhere in Rioja due to the "special microclimate" formed by proximity to the river and vineyard aspect; combine this with old vines (some 70 years) and low yields and the result is higher fruit extract, acidity and alcohol, we were told. The wines are matured for 2 years in a mix of French and American oak.

1974 (G) – quite orangey/brown in colour; gamey nose, lightly herbaceous too, with mature liquoricey notes; smooth and mature, a little dried out actually but there’s some red fruit there blended with dried herbs, then finishing with overly dry tannins. (n/a)

1982 – deep dark red gives way to a shade of brown/orange; pretty farmy and rustic on the nose, warm and pruney with big fruit concentration balanced by maturing earthy tones; quite high alcohol, firm tannins, fair acidity, great structure and length with lingering liquorice fruit. Fantastic, needs more time as it’s just beginning to open up. (£92-98)

1985 (G) – (1st bottle) similar colour to above but perhaps less intense and appearing a tad ‘older’, rather closed with light leathery aromas. The fruit is resiny followed by chunky tannins and grip with liquorice undertones, not sure if it has the concentration to survive those tannins.

2nd bottle is more open and gamey on the nose, it’s not as hard on the palate with richer fruit to balance those tannins; still attractively resiny and liquorice but perhaps fades quickly in the end compared to the alcohol and firmness of tannins. (£45-55)

1994 – quite youthful complexion with maybe less depth than the Imperial; rich dark cherry fruit reveals itself, quite peppery and leathery too but distinctly fruity (although with baked edge); firm but ripe tannins, hot-ish alcohol and long finish. (£25-30)

1996 (VG) – deep purple (“…smoke on the water”… sorry, couldn’t resist it), chocolatey oak and damsons on the nose; lots of sweet fruit, ripe and concentrated and also juicy with dry but ripe tannins to balance, finishing quite smoothly with reasonable length. Very nice now, maybe lacks finesse to go long term. (£18-25)

1996 Viña del Olivo Reserva (a ‘special project’ experiment using 60% French oak, 39% American and 1% Hungarian, medium-toast) – purpley black colour, pretty toasty aromas but fruit is rich underneath. Ripe and sweet, the spicy oak is softened by attractive fruit; moderate grip with quite high acidity and alcohol but good length. Lacks subtlety perhaps but style is towards in-your-face ‘modern’; some bitterness from the oak (?) on the finish (must be the 1% Hungarian!) (£40-50)

Oddball finale – 1939 (a ‘standard’ vintage apparently) white Rioja (made from Malvasia and Viura late harvested in December, re-corked in 1970 with 15% of wine from that vintage added): It’s mushroom-y, lightly oxidised, showing coconut oak and alcohol / volatile notes on the nose, quite intense with a touch of botrytis rot character too! Oxidised undertones in the mouth but also plenty of citrus fruits and dried apricots, just a bit of sweetness with quite high acidity giving back some freshness, plus actually a little wood tannin too! Weird but wonderful.

Further tit-bits of info:

CVNE farms 530 ha of vineyards making it one of the biggest vineyard owners in Rioja; the highest yields are around 6 tonnes/ha (so what? Yields huh...). A new winery was finished for the ’91 harvest at the original bodega in Haro, extending capacity to enable them to vinify separately by grape variety, vineyard and quality. Just to show off, they’re building another one at Assa close to the Ebro not far from Logroño, where production will start from this year’s vintage. Fruit from the river vineyards close to Torremontalbo are used for CVNE Reservas. Jesús Madrazo Mateo is a fifth generation descendant of the Real de Asúa brothers, joint founders of CVNE in 1879.

UK stockists include La Vigneronne (London SW7), Lay & Wheeler (Colchester), Berry Bros & Rudd, selected branches of Bottoms Up, William Morton (Glasgow), SWIG (NW3) and Nickolls & Perks (Stourbridge).

Les Grandes Maisons d’Alsace tasting and lunch

Le Gavroche London W1

“No bloody oaks…disgusting.” Hubert Trimbach set the tone nicely for this gathering of six high profile, family-owned Alsace Houses with representatives from each offering half-a-dozen or so (unoaked) white wines to taste and, of course, heart-felt commentary: Léon Beyer, Dopff au Moulin, Hugel & Fils, Kuentz Bas, Domaines Schlumberger and last but not least Trimbach. Price guide: A = £3-£5, B = £5-£7, C = £7-£10, D = £10-£15, E = £15-£20, F = +£20. (Notes on wines not necessarily typed in tasting order but as per booklet.)

This detailed article can be found at the bottom of my equally substantial Alsace page, just like the region's wine and cuisine.

Wine to go with spicy food

For www.virgin.net (now editorially defunct) food & drink

"In the past beer (usually lager) was the automatic choice to drink with spicy food; the only method known to man of quenching that fiery thirst following consumption of a Vindaloo or similar `death by chilli` experience. There`s no denying cold German-style lager, cool, light but hoppy beers or even water are a safe bet: it`s asking a lot of a wine to tackle very hot food like this. But given the diversity and popularity of Asian cuisine and restaurants and the array of exotic ingredients involved, surely wine should be the natural partner?" Read the full works here...