Pink paradise

Written for www.therestaurantgame.com

Historically sales of rosé wines in restaurants have been hampered by narrow-minded, outdated perceptions - sweet, wimpy, inferior red - bolstered by the high profile of certain brands and styles. Surely things have moved on, particularly as New World producers are delivering rosés bursting with vivid colour and juicy fruit?

Pink paradise

Let’s not forget the long tradition of making dry rosés in Mediterranean countries - mostly red wine producers so no shortage of suitable grapes - to drink something in the summer with enough body to go with food, yet which retains the refreshing edge of a chilled white.

Looking around, there’s never been such a wide selection available with plenty of different styles and prices, overall pretty even quality and some wines displaying reassuringly familiar grape varieties on the label.

Regions and grapes

• The Loire Valley offers sometimes rather insipid, medium dry/sweet rosés like Rosé d’Anjou but also better ones such as Cabernet d’Anjou or dry Rosé de la Loire; main grapes are Grolleau and Cabernet Franc. Less common are Sancerre rosé made from Pinot Noir and sparkling, delicately pink Crémant. It’s permitted for rosé Champagne to be a blend of red and white base wines.

• Southern France is known for its full-bodied, dry and sometimes alcoholic rosés such as Tavel from the southern Rhône Valley or Collioure from Roussillon. Provence produces good wines too, the best arguably from the Coteaux d’Aix or Bandol close to Marseille - grapes used include Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre.

• Northeast Spain has several classic dry rosados; in particular look out for the regions of Navarra, Rioja and Penedès, where Garnacha (same as Grenache) holds sway.

• Portugal gave us Mateus rosé, but you do also come across higher quality alternatives from areas such as Bairrada.

• California is responsible for foisting ‘White’ Zinfandel or Blush onto the world, which can be rather sweet and nasty. However, we’re now seeing serious contenders entering the rosé frame made from Syrah and other southern French varieties.

• The ever-increasing popularity of Australia will undoubtedly help to change those image problems, as it’s capable of very drinkable and vibrantly fruity rosés, the most visible brand being Hardy’s Stamp Grenache/Shiraz.

• South America hasn’t been slow to get in on the rosé revival - Chile and Argentina are selling good examples made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Syrah/Shiraz.

• Italy’s rosés aren’t found much (except Lambrusco) but hail from north (subtle and delicate) to south (full and earthy) and the islands too; grapes used as per reds of each particular region.

• South African producer Fairview launched a comic tribute red and rosé last year called ‘Goats do Roam’ (a pun on Côtes du Rhône).

The finest rosés are made from free-run juice drained or ‘bled’ off - hence the French expression Saignée or Spanish Sangrado - shortly after crushing (or from pressing the must gently), having macerated with the skins of red grapes for a few hours or even a day; the length of time depends on the variety and how much colour the winemaker wants. The juice is then fermented, preferably fairly cool to preserve fresh aromas and fruit, and made like a white wine. All of the wines tasted here are produced like this. Only the heartiest, more expensive styles will improve a little in bottle, so make sure you buy the youngest possible.

(All prices are ex VAT and approx. retail as a guide)

Ratings - points out of ten

D - Desirability on the wine list

V - Value for money

Q - Quality

R - Rating of vintage

S - State of readiness

1) Château Méaume Bordeaux Rosé 2000, France £4.67 Majestic

Unclean on the nose to start, but it does go with a bit of air, leaving creamy red fruits and good acidity. Very full bodied thanks to a whopping 14% alcohol, which is clumsy on the finish and demands food.

D8 V7 Q6 R9 S8

2) ‘Cavalchina’ Bardolino Chiaretto 2000, Italy £4.25 Majestic

Lightly fragrant, floral and currant aromas coupled with tangy cherry fruit and spritzy CO² on the palate; elegant, understated flavour and mouth-watering acidity too.

D6 V8 Q7 R8 S10

3) Santa Julia Syrah Rosé 2001, Mendoza, Argentina £4.25 Thierry’s

Improved after being open for a few hours to reveal youthful tangy fruit, but it ends up rather bland and like boiled sweets.

D7 V6 69 R8 S9

4) Fetzer Syrah Rosé 2000, California £5.10 Brown Forman/Fetzer

Amazingly deep colour; full and fruity with a touch of spice too, this is quite rich and off-dry - the one for red drinkers but without the tannin. Very Californian.

D9 V7 Q8 R8 S9

5) Chivite ‘Gran Feudo’ Rosado 2000, Navarra, Spain £3.82 Oddbins

Nice gentle, aromatic redcurrant and strawberry fruit, which builds in intensity; elegant, crisp and well-made, quite long and stylish finish. Good with shellfish.

D8 V9 Q8 R8 S9

6) Château Julia ‘Amethystos’ Rosé 2000, Macedonia, Greece £5.52 Oddbins

Very aromatic roses, raspberry and cherry; good concentration and weight with attractive creamy yet tangy fruit showing long, balanced acidity. Try with meatier fish or chicken.

D9 V7 Q9 R8 S8

7) Saint Roch-les-Vignes Côtes de Provence Rosé 1999, France £3.82 Majestic

Almond, dried petals and wild strawberry on the nose; quite full in the mouth with reasonable acidity and length, although fruit is fading and getting a bit old (but it’s better with food).

D8 V9 Q7 R7 S10

8) Abbaye Sylva Plana Faugères Rosé 2000, France, £4.25 Majestic

Not forthcoming on the nose at first but develops earthy, wild berry tones; very full and punchy (13.5% alcohol), not so subtle or fruity but again good foodie.

D7 V7 Q7 R9 S9

9) Valdivieso Malbec Rosé 2001, Chile, £3.82 Majestic

This unusual rosé is well made, light and crisp with bags of zesty red fruits; good acidity and medium weight to finish.

D8 V9 Q8 R9 S9