Definitive Italian Wine Tasting

Written for www.therestaurantgame.com

The Chelsea Village Galleria at Stamford Bridge provided a powerfully green backdrop to the now annual ‘Definitive Italian Wine Tasting’ on 11th July. But all the action took place on white-clothed tables laden with bottles and thankfully in more than 90 minutes, as there were plenty of new wines and vintages to try. Producers and importers could only show mid-priced wines and upwards, meaning lower quality volume wines were excluded.

Having previously focused on the up-and-coming south of Italy, a separate area was dedicated to Chianti Classico with a cross-section of vintages and styles. Generally speaking, the just released 1999s and ‘97s looked the best, ‘98s a bit lacking in substance (although some drinking nicely now) but surprisingly few of the ‘96s and ‘95s impressed. Particularly striking were: 1997 Castello di Brolio (Enotria Winecellars 020 8963 4820), ‘99 Poggio de’ Sassiduri from Cantina Leonardo (Liberty Wines 020 7720 5350), ‘99 ‘Paris’ Monte Bernardi (Richards Walford 01780 460451), ‘98 Le Massi di Greve (H&H Bancroft 0780 444 1700) and ‘97 Riserva Villa la Pagliaia (Meridian Wines 0161 908 1350).

Italy’s exciting and endearing trademark is its myriad obscure yet characterful local grapes. Amongst whites we discovered the rich, complex and herby 1999 Fiano di Avellino ‘Terre di Dora’ (Winetraders 01865 251851) from the hills inland and east of Naples; good value, peachy and mineral 2000 ‘Terre in Fiore’ made from 100% Garganega from the Veneto (Liberty Wines 020 7720 5350); superior ’99 Orvieto produced from no less than 5 grapes – Procanico, Verdello, Grechetto, Malvasia and Drupeggio – by Palazzone (The Winery 020 7286 6475); and zesty, dry and aromatic ‘00 Prosecco di Valdobbidene ‘Sassi Bianchi’, which is usually sparkling (Sommelier’s Choice 020 8689 9643).

The strength and breadth of Italy’s reds is even more beguiling and extraordinary: Anna Maria Abbona’s 1999 Dolcetto from the Langhe in Piemonte (Mille Gusti 020 8997 3932) demonstrated the lovely, pure cherry fruit this grape can offer when made oak-free. Sicily is happily fulfilling its potential, as the rich ripe ’98 Passomaggio Rosso (Nero d’Avola and Merlot) from Santa Anastasia showed with its ‘tar and tobacco’ finish (John Armit 020 7908 0600)! Also from the south – Puglia region – Masseria Pepe had a delicious, intense and liquoricey ’99 Primitivo (very hip variety) called Dunico (Meridian Wines 0161 908 1350).