"Dirk
Niepoort (pic. second from right) hosted what turned out to be a dream tasting back in late
May in London, where we were treated to three flights of
his Garrafeira, Colheita and Vintage Ports spanning almost a
century; from a couple of youthful 2009s back to an incredible 1912.
Needless to say the latter has fared better than that other slightly
better-known 100 year-old vessel, as it carries on sailing
majestically across oceans of time..."
Click here to read the full report (goes to my 'Portugal page').
I met Jean at the lunch table at Millésime Bio organic wine fair in Montpellier earlier this year, where he had a bottle of one of his commanding 2010 reds open for sampling with the nosh (organic of course). This cuvée is a touch different from the norm around these wild and spectacular parts (and in their range too), as it's made predominantly from old Carignan (47%) followed by the staple Grenache (31), Mourvèdre (11) and splashes of Syrah (8) and Counoise (3). The blend is done this way as it's sourced from a particular plot among 16 ha (40 acres) overall, where these vine varieties are all mixed up together roughly in these proportions; hence this wine's made in ye olde "field blend" style. Jean and Martine David are fair old-timers when it comes to organics, as they've been doing it in their vineyards since 1989. Respek. Séguret is one of those lovely old-as-time villages stuck on a hill and a stand-alone Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation lying somewhere between Gigondas and Rasteau in the shadow of the brooding Dentelles de Montmirail hills. They make six other wines, which I look forward to trying sometime somewhere.
More @ www.domaine-jean-david.com where, for a nice change, they say, accurately, they don't use synthetic chemicals etc. Unlike some organic growers who conveniently make generalizations about not using any chemicals, as if explaining the details doesn't matter. My point being many consumers are a bit confused and believe organic means no chemicals, which clearly isn't the case (sulphur, sulphur dioxide, copper based treatments...). These are considered 'natural', which, well, they are, and are sanctioned and difficult to do without (although some are trying with varying results...). Sorry to be pedantic but worth repeating my little rant just to clarify!
2010 Cuvée Beau Nez Séguret (14.5%) - chunky vs aromatic style, powerful with lush dark fruit, firm and punchy finish with meaty savoury notes too. Needs a few months to open up but it's good stuff.
More Côtes du Rhône Séguret profiles and wines to follow (Domaine de Mourchon...)
The compact neighbouring wine regions of Tavel and Lirac, known for their chunky rosés and reds based on Grenache, are classed under the Rhône Valley, which they are in lying just to the northwest of Avignon; although the village of Tavel, where this wee winery is found is actually in the Gard département in the Languedoc. A not particularly confusing fact though, nor terribly interesting and who gives a damn anyway, you may be tempted to add. The curiously named Palai Mignon (cute palace?) belongs to winegrower/maker Cyril Amido and comes to a slender three ha (7.5 acres) farmed organically - he set up this label in 2005 (having worked for the local co-op for years) and has been certified organic since the 2011 vintage. I couldn't find a website or blog but his email is cyril.amido@orange.fr, if you ever wanted to call in and taste sometime or find out where he sells his wines (outside of France), which are worth tracking down imho. I sampled these two tasty little numbers at Millésime Bio wine show in Montpellier earlier this year:
2011 Tavel (mostly Grenache + Syrah, Clairette, Carignan) - rich colour and rounded full-bodied style rosé, nice lees edges and a touch of 'mineral' character somehow, although this isn't especially acidic with its fruity oily texture. Different, good with food I'd imagine. 2011 Lirac 'Caprice' (mostly Grenache + Syrah, Mourvèdre) - aromatic perfumed and spicy liquorice fruit, ripe and juicy palate with attractive tannins and 'sweet' fruit, quite elegant actually with subtle grip and weight to finish. Very good.
Tabalí claims to be the first to have started planting in this northerly region in 1993 (now reaching a whopping 180 ha = 450 acres of vines), which might have raised a few eyebrows at the time as it's on the edge of the Atacama desert hence is pretty hot and dry, although being only about 30 km (less than 20 miles) from the ocean compensates for this (cool breezes, man).
Dates for Wine Education Service courses and tastings scheduled this autumn in Belfast and tutored by RMJ are:
INTRODUCTORY COURSE
ESSENTIAL WINE TASTING
£125 for 5 sessions
Tuesdays 25/09/12 - 23/10/12 19.00-21.00
INTERMEDIATE COURSES
£150 for 5 sessions
CLASSIC GRAPE VARIETIES
Thursdays 4/10/12 - 1/11/12 19.00-21.00
THE CLASSIC WINES OF SOUTHERN FRANCE
Wednesdays 7/11/12 - 5/12/12 19.00-21.00
ONE-DAY WINE WORKSHOPS
£75 including lunch, all Saturdays 09.30 - 17.30:
From Grape to Glass 6/10/12
The Wines of France 3/11/12
Champagne & sparkling wines 1/12/12
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| Ramada Encore Belfast |
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Header image: Château de Flandry, Limoux, Languedoc. Background: Vineyard near Terrats in Les Aspres, Roussillon.
