Pinot Noir is the only red variety planted in the vineyards of Alsace, which represents just about 10% of the region's overall production. In 2022, it was finally accepted into the exclusive Alsace Grand Cru club (51 mapped-out sites) in Hengst and Kirchberg de Barr*.
These vineyards are found near the villages of Wintzenheim (west of Colmar on south-facing slopes) and Barr (to the north towards Strasbourg, south-east facing). Generally, Pinot styles vary from light and fruity to more serious and age-worthy; quality usually ranges from good to high.
Here are my five favourites discovered at the Alsace Rocks! Dublin tasting organised by Sinéad Smyth Consulting and the Comité Interprofessionel des Vins d'Alsace. There were also a couple more 2023 vintage Pinots from Bruno Sorg and Trimbach, which were more structured and less forthcoming / charming at this stage. Further info and photo of Hengst Grand Cru from vinsalsace.com. *Source: decanter.com and wine-pages.com.
Joseph Cattin Tradition 2024 (12.5% abv) - Light and perfumed with floral cherry/berry fruit and savoury side too, light tannins on the palate with tasty, elegant finish; very nice Pinot style. €22 Boutique Wines. £13.50-£15.50 UK. $17-$20 US.
Domaine Muré Argiles Rouges 2024 (12.5%) - Perfumed and savoury in that typical Pinot way, tasty and developing palate with tangy vs fruity mix, subtle tannins and quite concentrated. Good wine. €37 Mitchell & Sons. £23 UK. €26-€28 France, Belgium. $30-$35 US.
Domaine Zinck Lieu-Dit Diebmannswinkel 2023 (12.5%) - Meatier and funkier on the nose but with cherry fruit edged by nice savoury development, quite fresh acidity underneath more of that lingering maturing fruit, concentrated with tannins a little closed up needing more time in bottle. The vineyard name probably means thief's or rogue's corner! €23 cellar door.
Moltès Tradition 2024 (13%) - A producer name I wasn't familiar with (and was impressed by most of their wines at the tasting). Delicate aromatic nose, good depth of juicy fresh fruit with a hint of dry tannin on a still youthful palate; classy Pinot. €12 cellar door. €20-€24 Whelehan's Wines. £21.75 UK.
Famille Hugel Grossi Laüe 2016 (13%) - Nicely maturing while still alive with cherry and berry fruit, quite chunky mouthfeel but elegant nevertheless, structured lingering finish. Very good. £50 UK. $60-$65 US.
Crémant d'Alsace traditional method sparklers (by second fermentation in bottle on yeast lees) now make up 40% of all Alsace wine production (and increasing I've read) and a quarter of Alsace wine sales in Ireland (also on the up). These can be made from, and are usually a blend of, Pinot Blanc (PB), Pinot Gris (PG), Riesling (R), Auxerrois (A), Pinot Noir (PN) (100% for rosé bubbly) and Chardonnay (C) (only used for producing fizz). The standard at the tasting was really very good overall. These nine are highly recommended.
Domaine Muré Prestige NV (12.5% abv) - PB, PG, R, C, PN. Elegant and toasty with almond notes, crisp mouthwatering palate layered with very appealing baked biscuit flavours. €16 cellar door. €35 Mitchell & Sons. £27 UK. $35 US.
Domaine Meyer-Fonné Extra Brut NV (12.5%) - A, C, PN, PB. Leaner, very dry style with fresh acidity and subtle toasted biscuit tones, long zippy finish. €34 Martin's Off Licence. £21.50-£24 UK.
Domaine Pierre Henri Ginglinger NV (12.5%) - R, A, PG, PN. Very frothy mousse, clean refreshing and fruity, tight and crisp palate; attractive fizz with depth of character, although not very toasty at the moment. €32-€34 The Wine Buff, A Little Luxury. €14.50 cellar door.
Gustave Lorentz Brut NV (12.5%) - PB, PG, C, PN. Frothy with nutty aromas and flavours, subtle toastiness with slightly oilier texture yet still crisp and fresh. Good. €27-€28 Ireland (widely available). £21-£23 UK. $30-$37 US. €21 Italy.
Domaine Bruno Sorg Brut 2023 (12%) - PB, C, A, PG. Fresh and tight style with tasty toasted biscuit notes, very crisp mouthfeel while nicely textured too; very good bubbly. €29-€34 Blackrock Cellar, frenchwines.ie. £20-£25 UK.
Domaine Sipp Mack Extra Brut 2021 (12.5%) - C, PB, PG, PN. Classy maturing fizz, plenty of nutty toasty flavours while crisply structured and nicely rounded as well, concentrated finish; lovely wine. €30-€33 Mitchell & Son and others. $30-$32 US. €16 France, Austria, Germany.
Moltès Brut 2020 (12.5%) - 100% C. Mature biscuity nose, lovely texture yet still fresh and lively, concentrated; excellent classy fizz. €35 Whelehan's Wines. €17.30 cellar door.
Domaine Zinck Brut Rosé NV (13%) - PN. Appealing red fruits with brioche undertones, crisp fresh and mineral but with a little weight too; very nice. €40 Green Man Wines, Excuse My French. $43 CA.
Bestheim Rosé Brut NV (12%) - PN. Deep pink colour, very fruit-and-nut cake aromas, quite rich and textured while fresh and fruity on the finish. Very good pink bubbles. €30 Ireland (deli groceries and wine bars). €10-€15 France.
More Alsace to follow: Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris.
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