Piemonte: Barbera red wines.

Barbera is the most-grown red variety in Piemonte and the second most important in terms of wines, although still perhaps overlooked and underrated. Wine pros and geeks can get obsessed with the 'great' wines made from Nebbiolo from the region, the famous names of Barolo and Barbaresco, which can indeed be great, like anywhere else. But there are enough rather uncharming, over-cask-aged wines produced from Nebbiolo (dear too) to make you wonder sometimes. Maybe I'm just not a big fan of this grape (unpleasant tannins come to mind)!

Anyway, back to Barbera which has seen a slight transformation from mass produced towards quality in recent times. 28,000 hectares are planted in Italy, mostly in Piemonte in the Monferrato, Asti and Alba areas. It's resistant and vigorous with elevated levels of acidity and certain antioxidants, although not so much of tannin. Sources: jancisrobinson.com, ivinidelpiemonte.com.

Nizza DOCG has only been around since 2014 focused on a small area around Nizza Monferrato, to the south of Asti, and made from 100% Barbera. Some of the wines are a bit too show-offy with lashings of expensive new oak and high alcohol (from super-ripe grapes presumably). Image above from bava.com.

Agricola Barberis

Barbera d'Asti 2021 - Ripe cherry fruit layered on light tannins adding a touch of palate grip, still nice and alive even with a little age. Good. €13 Italy.

Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2020 - 18 months in oak barrels, although it's quite subtle adding spicy notes to a surprisingly structured and young-tasting red at this stage. €17 Italy. Imported by Enoteca Italiana.

Marchesi Incisa della Rocchetta

Barbera d'Asti Valmorena 2023 - No oak. Lots of cherry and dark berry fruit, vibrant and spicy with nice tannins. Good. €17.50 Italy. $18-$22 US. $24.50 Ca.

Barbera d'Asti Sant'Emiliano 2021 - Hints of oak and spice but it has lots of appealing fruit, well made and surprisingly balanced for a whopping 15.5% abv! It works though. €40 Italy. £24 UK. $30-$40 US.

Bava

Barbera d'Asti Libera 2024 - Nice and juicy with intense fresh mouthfeel and a hint of tannin, nice easy-going red. $18-$20 US. €17-€19 Cyprus & Greece. €26 Finland.

Nizza 2019 - More concentrated with good depth of chunky fruit, attractive tannins with firm yet rounded mouthfeel, very good wine. £20 UK, $40 US. €25-€30 Cyprus. Ireland: Dalcassian Wines.

Cascina Lanzarotti Barbera d'Alba 2024 - No oak. Lovely juicy fruit with chunky cherry and spice profile, a touch of structure although fairly soft. €19 NL.

Castello di Gabiano

Barbera d'Asti La Braja 2022 - Appealing mix of fruit spice tannin and alcohol with lingering maturing fruit and a little structured still. Good. £26 UK. $29 US. $50 Sg. $36 Ca.

Barbera d'Asti Superiore Adornes 2016 (15%): From the far north of the Asti region on the River Po; 18 months in large casks and vats. Still deep and purply with ageing edges, hints of spicy oak but with plenty of appealing maturing fruit, dark berry with earthy / savoury notes, nice palate and texture with light oak, ripe fruit and concentrated rounded mouthfeel, tannins are still present but it's well-made and balanced. A touch of class. €34 cellar door, $52 Canada.

Fontanafredda Barbera d'Alba Raimonda 2024 - Eight months in oak. Nice and fruity and lively with juicy texture and 'chalky' tannins, very appealing style. Irish importer: Comans Beverage. €19.50 Spain. £20-£22 UK.

Massimo Rivetti Barbera d'Alba Froi 2023 - Fruity and smoky with maturing yet chunky palate, firm and fresh finish while concentrated with lingering fruit. Another good one. £19 UK. €12 EU. $18-$20 US. $38 Aus. ￥3850 Jp.

Palladino Barbera d'Alba 2023 - Attractive juicy and dark cherry fruit, tasty mouthful with light tannins and well-balanced concentrated finish. Good. Imported by Boutique Wines (€26). €12 Malta. $22-$23 US.

Reverdito Michele Barbera d'Alba Butti 2023 (14.5% abv) - No oak. Fruity cherry and berry mix with wilder balsamic edges, rounded tannins with chunky mouthfeel, well-balanced and very appealing. UK: Thorman Hunt. $23+ US.

Rizieri Barbera d'Alba Superiore 2020 - Six months in used barrels. Fairly herby, tart and fresh to start although there's some dark and juicy fruit underneath, good enough in the end. €18.50-€20 Italy & Germany.

Sant'Evasio Nizza 2021 (15.5% abv) - Very deep colour, oaky and rich, not so powerful in the end thanks to some stonking fruit!

Silvano Bolmida Barbera d'Alba Superiore Conca del Grillo 2022 (14.5% abv) - 12 months in barrel. Nice fruit with wilder edges, better balance of oak fruit and alcohol, good old-fashioned style. Imported by Wines Direct (€20). £18.50 Wine Society (UK). €18 Italy (and EU).

Vinchio Vaglio

Barbera Piemonte Le Tane 2024 - Alluring fruity nose with vibrant cherry fruit, ripe vs bitter twist on the palate, nice undemanding red. £10.49-£15 UK. €15 Ireland.

Barbera d'Asti I Tre Vescovi 2023 - 12 months in oak. Has a little more depth weight and structure, good berry and cherry fruit finish. €15 France and Italy.

Vinory

Barbera d'Asti Cherna 2024 - No oak. Appealing dark cherry and berry nose, nice mix of vibrant and herby, finishing with a little weight (14.5% abv) tannin and good fruit. Ireland: Grape & Bean €22-€25? €28 Finland? Kr290 Norway.

Nizza Moncucco Cavino 2022 - Spicy oak is a tad strong but it has lots of vibrant fruit, appealing enough in the end.

Nizza Bricco 2021 - More concentrated ripe and powerful (15.5% abv), again pretty oaky. Not sure which I prefer (if either). €40-€45 Ireland. Kr275 Denmark.