The geeky stats tell us that 774 hectares (compared to 3000 of the much less charismatic Cortese grape by the way) of Arneis are grown in the province of Cuneo, on the hillsides above the left bank of the Tanaro river to the north of Alba and southwest of Asti.
There are now a few small pockets of this variety planted and producing in the USA, e.g. Sonoma (California) and Oregon, and certain regions of Australia and New Zealand. Info gleaned from ivinidelpiemonte.com, the Piemonte region wine body that hosted a tasting in Dublin a few weeks ago. These six stylish Arneis whites were my favourites.
Vinchio Vaglio Roero Arneis DOCG Frusté 2024 (13%): This co-op winery in Vinchio grows the characterful local white variety Arneis in sites at around 250 metres altitude. Six months' yeast lees-stirring in vat before bottling. Quite complex and fragrant on the nose, fairly rich and perhaps concentrated with ripe pears and some exotic fruits, intense zesty and lees-y texture with depth and subtle freshness, lively lingering finish with nutty flavours and plenty of character. Good quality dry white. €10-€15 Italy, Germany and Netherlands. $30 US?
Cascina Lanzarotti
Roero Arneis DOCG 2024: 20-year-old vines planted at 230-250 metres altitude. Juicy and lively, gets richer and riper on the palate, long crisp finish. Good. £24-£26 UK.
Roero Arneis DOCG Sant’Anna Riserva Arlass 2023: 25-year-old vines; six months on lees with stirring. Rich and nutty, concentrated vs fresh acidity, lingering finish; delicious, very good.
Tap on the bottle shot at the top to visit their website.
Marchesi Incisa della Rocchetta Roero Arneis DOCG 2024: Nutty and rounded flavours/texture, fairly concentrated too with tangy crisp aftertaste. Another good one. $24-$28 US. £16-£17 UK.
Fontanafredda Roero Arneis DOCG Pradalupo 2024: Zesty start turning to more exotic fruit, nice mix of ripe vs crisp palate and concentrated too. Good wine from one of, if not the biggest producer. €13-€15 Italy and Germany. £20-£22 UK.
Vinory Roero Arneis DOCG 2024: Citrus fruit and chalky tones / texture, lively mouthfeel turning fuller and oilier with tasty peach fruit, finishing with lingering crisp bite; very appealing wine. €22-€28 Ireland, Finland. Kr260 Norway.
Coming soon: spotlight on Barbera reds.
Previously: Nebbiolo and beyond, exploring Piemonte.
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