Alsace tasting

Domaine Louis Sipp: www.sipp.com

This sumptuous tasting was organised by the Northern Ireland Wine & Spirit Institute in Belfast a couple of months ago and was led by regional expert Anne McHale MW, who communicated a few nuggets of juicy information from the region, which I've regurgitated here rather randomly.

Alsace is perhaps still one of France's least-known wine areas located on the vast country's northeastern edge sandwiched between low mountains and the German border. We tasted different 'versions' of all the key varieties planted and started with a sparkling wine, Crémant d'Alsace, which now accounts for one-third of total production, with a corresponding increase in plantings geared to this (Pinot Blanc for instance). On the other hand, traditional variety Sylvaner is decreasing in popularity and vineyard area, although there's now a focus on making higher quality wines from the remaining old vines.

Any confusion for wine drinkers about the styles of wine made in Alsace partly stems from sometimes not knowing whether what you're buying might be dry or sweet, especially from aromatic grapes like Gewurztraminer or Muscat. But the region must now strictly follow EU labelling regulations regarding sweetness, hence a wine should be labelled as sec or demi-sec etc as appropriate.

The development of or changes to Alsace's system of top 'Grand Cru' vineyard classifications has long had its supporters and opponents among wine growers there. But I doubt many would have objected to the regulations being extended to include the first red wines made from Pinot Noir in 2022 (there are now three PN Grands Crus), given the quality of many of these wines.

More info about Alsace wines and visiting this beautiful, and gastronomic, region can be found on: www.vinsalsace.com. And the NIWSI, membership and program: www.niwsi.org facebook.com/NIWSI.

Crémant d'Alsace Cuvée Julien NV, Dopff au Moulin (12% abv) - 50-50 Pinot blanc and Auxerrois blanc, 24 months' ageing in bottle on the yeast-lees. Attractive light toast and nutty yeasty notes on the nose and palate balanced by crisp fresh acid structure. Nice fizz, although I thought it was richer / better the last time I had it? £13.95

Pinot Blanc Granit Terroir d'Alsace 2022, Cave de Turckheim (13% abv) - Yeast-lees richness adds to quite full-bodied mouthfeel, but there's a touch of lightness too and perfumed fruit with maturing texture and flavours on an otherwise fresh finish. Good but drink it now. £10.50

Sylvaner 2022, Domaine Albert Boxler (12.5% abv) - Fairly rich, ripe and peachy, concentrated and lees-y vs nice freshness underneath, rounded and textured with long finish. Nice foodie white, very good although dear. £24

Muscat Réserve 2023, Trimbach (13.5% abv) - Perfumed and pure nose with grapey floral rose petal notes, similar rounded palate with really dry flavour and crisp fresh bite, balancing out nice developing characters, it should age too; delicious wine. £19.50

Riesling Grand Cru Kirchberg de Ribeauvillé 2016, Domaine Louis Sipp (12.5% abv) - Unbelievable nose with serious oily petrol aromas! Also dried lime notes lead to a very intense and rich palate vs steely bite of acidity, concentrated and rounded with maturing stone fruit flavours and mineral bite on the finish. Lovely, classy, out-there Riesling, which was still developing more aromas after going back to it later. £70 magnum!

Pinot Noir Classic 2022, Famille Hugel (13% abv) - Great colour for its age, perfumed blueberry and cherry fruit vs earthier meatier and peppery characters, quite full bodied with light grip of attractive tannins, still has nice freshness too. Tasty and classy, reminded me of some of Germany's 'modern' Pinots. £14.95

Pinot Gris 2016, Domaine Rolly Gassmann (14% abv) - Lush honeyed colour and nose, pineapple chunks, bruised apple and perfumed 'mushroom' notes, rich and full with maturing side while still fresh too; has some sweetness for sure but lots of flavour and complex mature characters. Very good. £18

Gewurztraminer Roche Roulée 2021, Domaine Zind Humbrecht (14.5% abv) - Yeast-lees, perfumed lychee and rose water, lush and ripe vs nice 'cut', powerful mouthful although surprisingly elegant, balanced and structured for a Gewurz of this type, off dry / medium-sweet and powerful finish. Superb - try with strong blue cheese or, the classic Alsace smelly cheese, Munster! £27

Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardives 2022, Cave de Turckheim (13.5% abv) - Rich aromatic classic Gewurz nose, concentrated ripe and sweet although almost savoury at the same time, as it has such depth and purity of flavour; well balanced and lingering thanks to underlying 'cut', tasting not so sweet in the end (although it is). Terrific value at £19.50 for 50cl compared to other great sweet wines. Someone suggested drinking it with bread and butter pudding - good idea!

All these wines were sourced from The Wine Society, which is a veritable Alsace one-stop shop.