Domaine CollinYou'll find Philippe Collin's Burgundy-modelled estate on the way into the blink-and-miss-it village of Tourreilles, to the southwest of Limoux or northwest of Roquetaillade. He and his wife had the following vintages up for tasting at the enigmatically named "Salon du X" - it's not that much of a mystery, actually, a tasting organised by his agent Xavier Peyrot des Gachons with a dozen Languedoc & Roussillon winegrowers present (there were originally 10, I think) hence the X - in April 2010 at Domaine Gayda's impressive winery & restaurant complex between Limoux and Castelnaudary. Some of their wines are imported into the UK by Yapp Brothers and Colombier Wines.
Crémant de Limoux Prestige (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir) - toasty, yeasty and oily vs quite fine and tight; pretty dry (only 6g/l residual sugar) and zingy vs lightly bready, tasty and mouth-watering with yeasty complexity. 87+
Crémant de Limoux Selection (mostly Pinot Noir) - again fairly fine, tight and dry style; steely and crisp vs oily and yeasty biscuit flavours/texture, more serious rounded yet refreshing finish. £10 UK. 88+
2006 Limoux (Chardy) - tightly textured vs toasty and grainy, quite mineral style and still a bit closed up?
2001 - buttery and rich with luscious creamy fruit vs still zingy actually, nice balance of hazelnutty maturity and freshness. 88+
2004 Pinot Noir - savoury maturing profile showing dried red fruits vs fresh bite; a bit vegetal perhaps in the end but has attractive maturing PN style traits.
2001 Chenin Blanc ("noble rot" with 120g/l RS) - maturing, oily, exotic and spicy; marmalade vs underlying mushroom flavours, lush yet has nice bite and balance with lively long vs caramelised finish. 89
Well, try the Courtauld Gallery café instead, off the Strand in central London, for my "alcohol-free tip of the week." After contemplating and relishing Manet's fine intriguing painting "Bar at the Folies-Bergère," a quick visit to the café downstairs revealed possibly the tastiest hot chocolate I've ever been served, made from real dark chocolate.
Mas Conscience
Laurent and Geneviève Vidal were (wo)manning a stand at the enigmatically named "Salon du X" - it's not that much of a mystery, actually, a tasting organised by their agent Xavier Peyrot des Gachons with a dozen Languedoc & Roussillon winegrowers present (there were originally 10, I think) hence the X - in April 2010 at Domaine Gayda's impressive winery & restaurant complex, found between Limoux and Castelnaudary. And what a find: effervescent Laurent and Geneviève farm 10 ha (25 acres) of vines biodynamically (although not "certified" I don't think, if it matters) on the lower slopes of the increasingly fashionable, it would seem, and very beautiful Terrasses du Larzac. St-Jean is found about 50 minutes northwest of Montpellier and northeast of Béziers, off France's most dramatic motorway, the A75, at the point where it begins to climb up onto the Massif Central mountain plateau. I tasted these quirkily titled yet nevertheless delicious wines, which are available in the UK and US via Berry Bros:
2009 L'In vin de pays (Grenache blanc, Roussanne, Viognier) - aromatic and exotic white with zesty and mineral touches; "chalky" vs leesy palate with greener fruit edges. Attractive style. 85+
2008 La Petite Prise Coteaux du Languedoc (6 year-old Syrah &Grenache) - nice juicy vs ripe vs scented garrigue fruit; liquorice vs crunchier side, tasty and soft vs a bit of weight. 85
2009 Cieux ciel ciel vin de pays (100% old Cinsault) - lovely "sweet" cherry and lavender notes almost; quite elegant with fine tannins and underlying liquorice and wild herbs. Unusual. 87
2008 Le Cas vin de pays (100% old Carignan) - smokier and richer profile, again has that very ripe black cherry fruit but with more grip and intensity; enticing dry vs "sweet" texture, fresh and firm vs elegant fruit. Approx £10/$15. 89
2007 As Terrasses du Larzac (Syrah, Grenache, Carignan) - delicious ripe aromas again vs lightly toasty oak; good grip and tight mouth-feel, more powerful and lusher too. Needs 1 to 2 years to open up. Approx £13/$19. 89-91
2007 MahaTma (Mourvèdre) - a tad toasty at first with herbal undertones; riper palate with black olive and garrigue notes too, interesting "sweet/savoury" style with attractive tannins and subtle fruit. 87+
Route de Montpeyroux, 34150 Saint Jean de Fos. Tel: 04 67 57 77 42, mas.conscience@wanadoo.fr.
2009 Fitou red - reduced on the nose (a tank sample though), moving on to lively "inky" cassis and berry on the palate; tight finish with dark spicy fruit, could be good. 85+
2007 Le Schmitou red vin de pays - quite rustic with meaty leather notes; fairly rich "sweet/savoury" palate vs a tad reduced and bretty? Nice depth though with very firm and meaty finish, not sure!
2004 Fitou - again has that meaty maturing fruit with liquorice and leather edges vs dry grainy mouth-feel; attractive smoky depth of fruit though, still very firm / extracted but good in an old-fashioned way. 85+
2001 Fitou - lovely dried vs meaty fruit, mature with a touch of oak grain; delicious lush vs dry palate, leather vs sweet fruit plus a bit of oomph and grip too. Again old-fashioned, "natural" style but good with it. 87-89
2007 Le Schmitou white - nutty oxidised and toasty nose; very rounded yet still has fresh bite too, interesting. 87
12 Avenue du Pont-Neuf, 11360 Villeneuve-les-Corbières. Tel: 04 68 45 81 21, mariafita.com.
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Header image: Château de Flandry, Limoux, Languedoc. Background: Vineyard near Terrats in Les Aspres, Roussillon.
