Roussillon/Languedoc: Domaine Jones, Maury / Fitou

As originally mentioned in my "Strange goings-on in Maury" article, Katie Jones is no stranger to the area, at least the Fitou highlands / southern Corbieres just to the north, as she used to be marketing and export director at the Cave de Mont Tauch co-op (see Languedoc A to Z). The lure of the land obviously proved too overwhelming for Katie, who's bought a few, more-or-less adjoining old parcels perched up behind Maury (overlooked by Chateau Quéribus, hence the arrow on the pic.) on pretty steep, very rocky soil (mostly pure grey/black schist on top), which are a challenge to access even for her old faithful 4x4 "love wagon" (it has a few pink hearts on it). As if that wasn't enough to take on, she's now also sought out a nice little plot closer to home, in the Fitou appellation, to add to her pocket-size vineyard patchwork. Hence why you'll see this blurb on Katie filed under Roussillon and Languedoc, as she's one of a handful who are difficult to pinpoint, for the purposes of my mini-profiles I mean rather than being a bureaucratic stickler, with vineyards and cellar in different "regions". The cellar's in Tuchan actually, not Paziols where her house is. "Confused, you will be..."
Anyway, what's new? For the reasons I just mentioned, Katie's opted to use the pristine "Vin de France" labelling moniker; as well as for pure simplicity in that "does was it says on the label" kinda way... enhanced by distinctive flowery leafy wallpaper design, of course! I've now tasted the 2009 wines, her first vintage, three of them bottled and two from cask made with a little help from south of France resident Australian winemaker David Morrison. She's also launched a fun new website (with a few tasty Med recipes too), where you can order the wines for delivery in the UK if that rings your bell (see below: no, I'm not a shareholder by the way). Future plans include making a red Fitou from 2011 to supplement the Jones range, as she didn't really get hold of this handsome little parcel in time this year to work the grapes as she'd like to (see link to update below). Sampled in July & August 2010:

2009 Jones Blanc (Grenache gris + splash of Muscat, half barrel-fermented in new and three year-old casks, 13% alc.) - aromatic floral nose with light coconut/cedar and toasted honey tones; exotic peachy touches on the palate vs "chalky" texture, nice balance of fruit vs lees/toast vs steelier side; quite elegant actually and drinking well already, finishing with light bitter twist vs grainy/creamy mouth-feel vs fresh bite. £15/€12 87
2009 Jones Rouge (20 to 70 year-old Grenache, 14.5%) - a tad closed up and unrevealing (just bottled when I first tried it) but a bit of air brings out enticing sweet cherry, liquorice and herbal berry fruit; nice dry vs smooth mouth-feel with peppery and punchy finish, its "sweet/savoury" profile develops in the mouth then it tightens up; again has an appealing "mineral" side vs powerful and peppery, in the end it's quite elegant in an attractively "earthy" Grenache-y way. £15/€12 87-89
2009 Jones Muscat (70 g/l residual sugar, 13%) - voluptuous honeyed grapey nose with a touch of citrus marmalade; rich vs refreshing palate actually showing lovely cut and balance, lush and honeyed vs mineral and quite fine. £10 50cl 87-89
2009 Carignan (from barrique) - delicious already showing fair depth and purity with ripe blue fruits; has a certain lushness vs a tad of spicy coconut texture/aroma/flavour, nice weight and "drinkability" vs firm and tight finish still, attractively full-bodied vs underlying fresh side. 89+
2009 Grenache (one barrel held back as an experiment) - different profile and texture, rounder and less fruity and at the moment with chunky finish vs underlining "sweetness." On verra as they say...


UPDATED December 2011: click here to view a note and some info on Katie's new release red Fitou.

14 Rue de l'Eglise, 11350 Paziols. 06 86 67 94 68, www.domainejones.com.

Some posh old Bordeaux

Has moved HERE...

Some posh old Bordeaux

Tasted, savoured and gently quaffed at the Circle of Wine Writers' 50th anniversary dinner at the National Café, London WC2, on May 17th 2010 ("Flaunt it baby, flaunt it," as Zero Mostel said in "The Producers"): my notes got a bit lost in a pile of paper until now...

These three reds served with rack of spring lamb or wild mushroom risotto:

1996 Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac Grand Cru Classé - smoky maturing nose with savoury tobacco vs liquorice even; rich mouth-feel and depth vs still quite firm tannins, although I like its seductive chewy roundness; complex maturing finish with "sweet/savoury" and tobacco tones again vs underlying grip indicating there's still life in it yet. 92-94

1998 Château Branaire-Ducru Saint-Julien Grand Cru Classé - leafy cedary blackcurrant aromas vs maturing savoury edges; lighter palate with fresher acidity, attractive crunchy cassis fruit vs sweeter/savoury texture; gets richer and more open with air, probably very good for this tricky vintage. 88-90

2001 Château Canon La Gaffeliere Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé - ripe black fruits even with quite rustic smoky profile, intricate and "cheesy" (like old Rioja) too; still showing a touch of dry grip vs "sweet" texture and oomph (13.5% ?); lush, seductive and soupier too (bretty even?) but difficult not to like it! Tastes older than the other two. 90-92

With apple tarte tatin:

2002 Château Guiraud Sauternes Premier Cru Classé - delicious actually, even if not very rich and exotic; shows classy spicy nose with dried fruits, honey and marmalade; fine cut and bite vs oily texture, lovely balance. 88-90

Oh, we also enjoyed a wee glass of Louis Roederer Brut Premier Champers with nibbles beforehand to set the scene nicely. Afterwards, back to reality to catch a late tube. Ho hum. Picture from www.lynchbages.com

Languedoc: Château de Campuget, Costières de Nîmes

Château de Campuget
Campuget is a much larger property than Pastouret (see winery A to Z, right) and actually borders it on one side, although you have to go quite a long way round country lanes to get from one to the other. Anyway, there is a genuine and rather cute old Château in classic French bourgeois style, which you can rent out for functions apparently! Owned by the Dalle family, who makes quite a big range of appellation wines and vins de pays also including the ones from their other nearby estate Château de L'Amarine. They can all be tasted in their comfy, former old barn of a tasting room & shop next to the chateau, which is found more or less in the middle of a forest although well signposted from approaching roads. I visited and tasted these in June 2009 with son Franck-Lin Dalle (approx retail prices €5 to €12):
2008 Invitation Costières de Nîmes white (Roussanne/Grenache blanc/Viognier) - aromatic oily and zesty, turning more exotic in the mouth with a bit of weight then crisp and mouth-watering. 80+
2008 Invitation Costières de Nîmes rosé (13%) - zingy and crisp palate, tasty light-ish style, nice quaffer. 80+
2008 Invitation Costières de Nîmes red (13.5%) - peppery bright black cherry style, ripe and juicy vs touch of grip then darker "sweeter" liquorice flavours; again tasty and quite easy-going although has a bit of oomph too. 85-87
2005 La Sommelière Costières de Nîmes red (100% Syrah) - a bit more austere and serious, spicy with a touch of chocolate/coconut oak; firmer framework vs maturing tobacco notes and attractive textured tannins. 87+
Campuget's wines are available from www.wineman.co.uk in the UK (Kevin O'Rourke) and www.dreyfusashby.com in New York City.

Update summer 2010: I recently bought their 2009 white and rosé from a supermarket (€3.50 each), which were both enjoyable, well-made and easy-drinking in line with my reviews of the 08s.

30129 Manduel. Tel: 04 66 202 015, campuget@wanadoo.fr, www.campuget.com / www.chateaulamarine.com.

Languedoc: Domaine du Grand Arc, Corbières

Bruno and Fabienne Schenck set up domain in 1995 in beautiful middle of nowhere near Cucugnan at the bottom end of the Corbières, before the meandering climb down into Maury and beneath the awesome Chateau Quéribus (just to throw in a hint of cliché touristy and dramatic Cathar ambience - the castle is a must-see though)... although they already had and worked vineyards before then and used to deliver their grapes to the local co-op cellar. The estate now comes to 23 ha (57 acres) with vines planted from around 250 to 400 metres altitude (over 1000 ft on average).

When I called in at Grand Arc in late July 2010, Bruno expressed their philosophy as "agriculture non-violente," meaning, although not strictly organic, "sometimes we don't interfere... and take a little risk, we might lose a bit but you get better balance and we always have enough crop." He also said: "We no longer green-harvest and do very little de-budding and leaf-removal," the idea being that "it's all well thought out to try and understand everything around us. So, we make a range that reflects all our terroirs... The climate is very even here, we try to use that." And on the winemaking front, he claims to have experimented with not using sulphur for wines made in 2008 and 2009, except adding a very low quantity at bottling to "guarantee stability and ageing potential." I tasted their range at the same time as some eager Belgian tourists, who promptly drove off with a few cases, so obviously a hit! I'm inclined to agree, as no doubt does UK wine merchant Stone, Vine & Sun who stocks some of these wines:

2009 Veillée d'Equinoxe white (Grenache Blanc Roussanne Maccabeu 14%) - aromatic floral & banana-y nose; fatter fuller palate vs crisp and quite mineral, attractive light bitter twist too. €5.30 / £8.50. 80-85

2009 La Tour Fabienne rosé (Grenache Syrah Carignan Mourvèdre Cinsault 14%) - has plenty of creamy strawberry/raspberry fruit to start; juicy vs quite chunky style with bite and subtle bitter twist, rounded & fairly powerful too vs crisp and fresh. A foodie rosé, good value too @ €4.80 / £8.25. 85

2009 Nature d'Orée red (Grenache Syrah Carignan MourvèdreCinsault) - nice lively fruity style showing a touch of grip vs liquorice and black cherry, spicy and punchy too; drinking well now although quite serious, value too @ €5. 85

2008 Réserve Grand Arc red (Carignan Grenache Mourvèdre) - tighter and fresher style with crunchy vs ripe blue/black fruits; good bite vs weight and very light touch of oak. €6 / £8.75. 85-87

2008 Quarante red (Carignan Grenache Syrah) - more closed up with subtle concentration of blue fruits, spicier and grippier too; nice tight length showing refreshing side vs oomph and again a deft touch of oak (?), long and quite fine. €7.60 / £10.50. 87-89

2008 En Sol Majeur red (Grenache Syrah) - richer and more powerful, a touch more oak too adding coco spice and texture; concentrated and tight, again not very expressive at the moment with toasty/grainy finish; lush fruit underneath though vs solid mouth-feel and punch. Promising. €10.80 89-91

2008 Aux Temps d'Histoire red (mostly very old Carignan) - spicy and grainy and closed up to start; gets more aromatic and very intense, attractive blue/black/red fruit combo adding rich vs crunchy profile; fresh acidity on the finish too with pure intense fruit vs coconut grain texture, long and tight. Wow. €12.90 90-92

A couple of previous DGA vintages here (Fenouilledes road trip 2005) and 2009 reds 'en primeur' here.

Le Devez, 11350 Cucugnan. Tel: 04 68 45 01 03, www.grand-arc.com