Château Falfas: "biodynamic in Bordeaux"

"This fetching, subtly grand yet unpretentious and workmanlike property is owned by John and Véronique Cochran and is located near Bayon in the Côtes de Bourg appellation to the northeast of Bordeaux on the Right Bank. This area isn’t known for great quality and hence its wines don’t command high prices, but that doesn’t do justice to certain individual estates which are reaching to applaud-worthy heights. Château Falfas is one of them and also unique in Bordeaux, as it's been run on biodynamic principles since 1988, thus joining such illustrious names as Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace, Huet in Vouvray and Chapoutier in the Rhône..."

Read it HERE.

“I’d like a nice Chardonnay please...”

Restaurant magazine 31 October 2001 issue

“I’d like a nice Chardonnay please.”

“We have Red Ridge in a frosted blue bottle or Windswept Gorge with a slick minimalist label.”

“Which is the best?”

“Well, they taste the same, but the Windswept Gorge looks sharper.”

Hopefully this isn’t a conversation you’ll hear in a restaurant, but there’s no denying trendy packaging is one way to make your bottle stand out from the rest. This is particularly true, of course, of producers trying to grab the drinker’s bewildered eye, when confronted with shelves full of enticing names, bottles, grapes and regions. But does the look of a wine play an increasing role in selecting in a restaurant – for the proprietor or the punter – where usually we go on a name, a recognisable style, a vintage or the sommelier’s recommendation?

The invasion of clever branded wordplay and gimmicky bottles has already taken hold in the retail sector, with varying success and quality of the liquid inside. What ever happened to Bend in the River, a ‘new wave’ German in a tall, curvy bottle? The wine wasn’t bad, just dull and overpriced. There’s the Pendulum duo, Australian Chardonnay and Italian Zinfandel dressed to kill in sexy silver outfit, which admittedly both taste good. Or Miranda White Pointer, a passable dry white adorned with shark hologram appearing when sufficiently chilled; pretty and practical. Deep Purple Shiraz, all 70s glitz and confected flavours. Fat Bastard Chardonnay, Old Git red; actually decent French wines but how well would they sell otherwise?

This kind of visual or sense of humour seduction may become more important in the on-trade e.g. All Bar One where the wines are racked on shelves behind the bar. The heavyweight, flat-top bottle has been with us for a while and high profile brands packaged thus, such as California’s Robert Mondavi or Chile’s Cono Sur, suit the restaurant table well, where the name probably counts. The attraction of such brands is obvious: familiar, perhaps uncomplicated, consistent and they sell easily without explanation.

The buff or snob appeal of traditional names of fine wines, quality aside, will always be a big pull for some customers, whatever they look like. Listing top Burgundies or Barolos can be commendable and impressive but doesn’t necessarily match the establishment or offer value. For example, Manchester’s rated Pacific restaurant offers innovative Thai and Chinese dishes and a fantastic wine list brimming with famous Bordeaux reds; but do they go the food?

Australian wine continues to storm ahead...

For Restaurant magazine launch issue October 2001

Australian wine continues to storm ahead in supermarkets and wine shops, although enthusiastic predictions of it overtaking France to secure pole position are perhaps premature. At the moment Oz doesn’t seem to be seriously threatening the stronghold of French wines in restaurants, reckoned to account for nearly half of all bottles opened, but that could easily change (and already has when considering the wine list in an average bar). If so, will we see yet more formulaic branded Chardonnay and Shiraz rather than higher quality, individual wines, or other unusual (but arguably less saleable) offerings such as dry Aussie Riesling, which can be ideal with Asian dishes, for example?

It’ll be harder work still in getting the message across to the server and drinker about the screw cap closures recently introduced on many fine Clare Valley (north of Adelaide) Rieslings such as Knappstein, Wakefield and Mount Horrocks. The producers are convinced it beats cork or plastic hands down for this style of unoaked aromatic white, in terms of protection and development of the wine or no chance of musty taint. And they aren’t the only ones: several New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs – a more familiar proposition in restaurants – such as Jackson Estate, Kim Crawford and Wither Hills (courageously all premium quality and price), have been sealed with screw caps from the 2001 vintage. So get used to it, it’s the future!

But France has already hit back with value for money, well made wines from the South, which are perhaps more style friendly for younger drinkers than traditional, complicated and overpriced Burgundy and Bordeaux (however good). These include fruity, rounded but characterful Vins de Pays or ‘country wines’ made from trendy grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon or Viognier, which can produce seductively perfumed yet full-bodied whites. I’d also like to see more reds on lists from established areas of the Languedoc-Roussillon such as Fitou, Corbières and Saint-Chinian, where talented winemakers are proving themselves beyond doubt and often at great prices!

Other countries are focusing their efforts on the on-trade too. Chile, established as a reliable provider of easy-going and tasty varietal wines but witnessing a fairly static market share, is now impressing with higher quality. Leading wineries such as Errázuriz and Cono Sur, and smaller producers like Thierry Villard, Viña Gracia and Viña Casa Silva, are getting results with top Pinot Noirs and Merlots, for example. In addition, Chile has Carmenère up its sleeve, a ‘reject’ red Bordeaux variety, which is delivering many interesting wines in the country’s warmer regions and showing its hand as something unique in a cluttered wine world.

Pink paradise

Written for www.therestaurantgame.com

Historically sales of rosé wines in restaurants have been hampered by narrow-minded, outdated perceptions - sweet, wimpy, inferior red - bolstered by the high profile of certain brands and styles. Surely things have moved on, particularly as New World producers are delivering rosés bursting with vivid colour and juicy fruit?

Pink paradise

Let’s not forget the long tradition of making dry rosés in Mediterranean countries - mostly red wine producers so no shortage of suitable grapes - to drink something in the summer with enough body to go with food, yet which retains the refreshing edge of a chilled white.

Looking around, there’s never been such a wide selection available with plenty of different styles and prices, overall pretty even quality and some wines displaying reassuringly familiar grape varieties on the label.

Regions and grapes

• The Loire Valley offers sometimes rather insipid, medium dry/sweet rosés like Rosé d’Anjou but also better ones such as Cabernet d’Anjou or dry Rosé de la Loire; main grapes are Grolleau and Cabernet Franc. Less common are Sancerre rosé made from Pinot Noir and sparkling, delicately pink Crémant. It’s permitted for rosé Champagne to be a blend of red and white base wines.

• Southern France is known for its full-bodied, dry and sometimes alcoholic rosés such as Tavel from the southern Rhône Valley or Collioure from Roussillon. Provence produces good wines too, the best arguably from the Coteaux d’Aix or Bandol close to Marseille - grapes used include Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre.

• Northeast Spain has several classic dry rosados; in particular look out for the regions of Navarra, Rioja and Penedès, where Garnacha (same as Grenache) holds sway.

• Portugal gave us Mateus rosé, but you do also come across higher quality alternatives from areas such as Bairrada.

• California is responsible for foisting ‘White’ Zinfandel or Blush onto the world, which can be rather sweet and nasty. However, we’re now seeing serious contenders entering the rosé frame made from Syrah and other southern French varieties.

• The ever-increasing popularity of Australia will undoubtedly help to change those image problems, as it’s capable of very drinkable and vibrantly fruity rosés, the most visible brand being Hardy’s Stamp Grenache/Shiraz.

• South America hasn’t been slow to get in on the rosé revival - Chile and Argentina are selling good examples made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Syrah/Shiraz.

• Italy’s rosés aren’t found much (except Lambrusco) but hail from north (subtle and delicate) to south (full and earthy) and the islands too; grapes used as per reds of each particular region.

• South African producer Fairview launched a comic tribute red and rosé last year called ‘Goats do Roam’ (a pun on Côtes du Rhône).

The finest rosés are made from free-run juice drained or ‘bled’ off - hence the French expression Saignée or Spanish Sangrado - shortly after crushing (or from pressing the must gently), having macerated with the skins of red grapes for a few hours or even a day; the length of time depends on the variety and how much colour the winemaker wants. The juice is then fermented, preferably fairly cool to preserve fresh aromas and fruit, and made like a white wine. All of the wines tasted here are produced like this. Only the heartiest, more expensive styles will improve a little in bottle, so make sure you buy the youngest possible.

(All prices are ex VAT and approx. retail as a guide)

Ratings - points out of ten

D - Desirability on the wine list

V - Value for money

Q - Quality

R - Rating of vintage

S - State of readiness

1) Château Méaume Bordeaux Rosé 2000, France £4.67 Majestic

Unclean on the nose to start, but it does go with a bit of air, leaving creamy red fruits and good acidity. Very full bodied thanks to a whopping 14% alcohol, which is clumsy on the finish and demands food.

D8 V7 Q6 R9 S8

2) ‘Cavalchina’ Bardolino Chiaretto 2000, Italy £4.25 Majestic

Lightly fragrant, floral and currant aromas coupled with tangy cherry fruit and spritzy CO² on the palate; elegant, understated flavour and mouth-watering acidity too.

D6 V8 Q7 R8 S10

3) Santa Julia Syrah Rosé 2001, Mendoza, Argentina £4.25 Thierry’s

Improved after being open for a few hours to reveal youthful tangy fruit, but it ends up rather bland and like boiled sweets.

D7 V6 69 R8 S9

4) Fetzer Syrah Rosé 2000, California £5.10 Brown Forman/Fetzer

Amazingly deep colour; full and fruity with a touch of spice too, this is quite rich and off-dry - the one for red drinkers but without the tannin. Very Californian.

D9 V7 Q8 R8 S9

5) Chivite ‘Gran Feudo’ Rosado 2000, Navarra, Spain £3.82 Oddbins

Nice gentle, aromatic redcurrant and strawberry fruit, which builds in intensity; elegant, crisp and well-made, quite long and stylish finish. Good with shellfish.

D8 V9 Q8 R8 S9

6) Château Julia ‘Amethystos’ Rosé 2000, Macedonia, Greece £5.52 Oddbins

Very aromatic roses, raspberry and cherry; good concentration and weight with attractive creamy yet tangy fruit showing long, balanced acidity. Try with meatier fish or chicken.

D9 V7 Q9 R8 S8

7) Saint Roch-les-Vignes Côtes de Provence Rosé 1999, France £3.82 Majestic

Almond, dried petals and wild strawberry on the nose; quite full in the mouth with reasonable acidity and length, although fruit is fading and getting a bit old (but it’s better with food).

D8 V9 Q7 R7 S10

8) Abbaye Sylva Plana Faugères Rosé 2000, France, £4.25 Majestic

Not forthcoming on the nose at first but develops earthy, wild berry tones; very full and punchy (13.5% alcohol), not so subtle or fruity but again good foodie.

D7 V7 Q7 R9 S9

9) Valdivieso Malbec Rosé 2001, Chile, £3.82 Majestic

This unusual rosé is well made, light and crisp with bags of zesty red fruits; good acidity and medium weight to finish.

D8 V9 Q8 R9 S9

Stars of the Languedoc-Roussillon

A few notes written in August 2001 as mock-ups for a wine book publisher...

1999 ‘Les Hauts de Força Réal’ rouge, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (£10-15)

Producer: J-P Henriquès

Grape varieties: Mostly Syrah with Grenache and Mourvèdre.

Jean-Paul Henriquès’ beautiful 4-hectare property Força Réal is located at Millas perched high up in the Roussillon hills above Perpignan and offers staggering views towards the Mediterranean and, in the other direction, the Pyrenees and Spain beyond. ‘Les Hauts’ is Jean-Paul’s top red wine made in small quantities and much sought after in France. It has deep ruby colour, heady aromas of vanilla and toasty wood, but this is then backed up by gutsy yet vibrant wild fruits, rich and concentrated followed by fair tannic grip at the moment; nevertheless, it shows finesse and great promise.

The grapes come from old vines planted on slopes with schist and alluvium soils and are strictly selected by hand. This results in very low yields of 25 hectolitres per hectare, structure and concentrated flavour.

Winemaking: Long traditional maceration on the skins to extract plenty of colour, fruit and tannins; aged in new oak barrels for 18 – 20 months.

Food recommendations: The locals would probably drink it with a rich Catalan lamb stew or perhaps a wild mushroom and cheese risotto.

Força Réal also produces an unusual dry white from Malvoisie and Grenache blanc grapes, a delicious fortified Muscat de Rivesaltes and multifaceted Rivesaltes Hors d'Age, which is matured for a minimum 12 years in oak and where the wines in the blend average 50 years of age.

Michel Laroche ‘South of France’

Producer: Mas la Chevalière/Michel Laroche.

Owned by the eponymous Chablis king, who’s invested plenty of money and time into singling out and replanting the best vineyard sites around Béziers and the hills inland. He bought the estate Mas la Chevalière in 1995, renovated its idyllic Mediterranean villa and built a shiny modern winery next door. Since then viticulturalist Richard Lavanoux and winemaker Yves Barry have been experimenting with different varieties from their own vineyards and those sourced from local growers demonstrating the right potential, suitable soils and terroirs and willingness to focus on quality by reducing yields. The backbone of the range is Chardonnay, Merlot and Syrah, which they say are giving the best results.

1998 ‘La Croix Chevalière’, Vin de Pays d’Oc (£10-15)

Grape varieties: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.

Top of the Michel Laroche ‘France-Sud’ hierarchy, this red is made only in great vintages and in limited quantity. The best fruit is picked out from stony, hillside sites around Béziers and from the Cévennes foothills. Dense in colour with cedary oak and chocolatey black fruit style, this complex wine has dry yet silky tannins and lots of supple fruit on the finish, suggesting a ripe year Bordeaux/Rhone cross.

Winemaking: Punching down of the ‘cap’ and pumping over with 3 weeks’ maceration on the skins to extract rich colour, body and tannins; aged in French and American oak barrels (one third new) for 18 months, no filtration.

Food recommendations: roast game poultry, smoked bacon and spinach.

Next come the terroir wines sourced from selected parcels of vines and bearing a vineyard name – Labech Merlot, Peyroli Chardonnay and Roqua Blanca Syrah (£7.50-10) – followed by fruit-focused varietals (£5-7.50).

1999 Mas Champart ‘Clos de la Simonette’, Saint-Chinian (£10-15)

Producer: Isabelle & Matthew Champart.

Grape varieties: Mourvèdre, Syrah and Carignan.

One of the stars of St-Chinian (northeast of Narbonne and an area we’ll definitely be seeing more of), which boasts an impressive range of traditional reds culminating in this densely structured, tannic and smoky blockbuster.

1999 Château de Pennautier Collection Privée rouge, Cabardès (£5-7.50)

Producer: Vignobles Lorgeril.

Grape varieties: Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc.

Recently promoted to Appellation Contrôlée status, the Cabardès region north of the medieval city of Carcassonne shows great promise. Rustic and smoky with aromas of blackcurrant and mulberry mixed with hints of spice and cocoa; full-bodied with rich, chewy and spicy blackberry; some oak and firm tannins but plenty of earthy ripe fruit. They also produce a barrel-fermented, tropical fruity, New World-style Chardonnay.

2000 Viognier Collection Gérard Bertrand, Vin de Pays d’Oc

Producer: Gérard Bertrand.

Located in northern Corbières, Gérard is also making high quality varietals such as this intensely apricoty, rich and spicy dry white. Don’t miss his 1999 Carignan Vieilles Vignes, which shows concentration and liquorice fruit on the length, or rustic but mellow 1998 Cigalus Rouge, a Cabernet/Merlot blend.

1997 Domaine du Mas Blanc ‘les Cosprons Levants’, Collioure (£15-20)

Producer: Jean-Michel Parcé.

Grape varieties: Mourvèdre, Syrah and Counoise.

Classic full-flavoured red from this picturesque coastal village almost bordering Spain, it delivers an amazing fragrance of wildflowers and herbs, earthy ‘resin’ fruit and ‘sweet’ ripe length. Takes a bit of getting used to!

1999 Picpoul de Pinet ‘les Flacons’, Coteaux du Languedoc (£10-15)

Grape variety: Picpoul.

This is a fine example of the speciality dry whites unique to the area around the town of Pinet to the west and inland of Sète. It’s initially characterised by the oak treatment showing opulent yeast lees and malolactic fermentation traits (makes the wine softer and creamy), but the excellent length of flavour and concentration conclude with tighter mineral and ‘stony’ fruit undertones. Thrillingly unusual.

1999 Ermitage du Pic Saint-Loup, Coteaux du Languedoc (£5-7.50)

Producer: Ravaille Estate.

Grape varieties: 60% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre.

Quite firm, meaty, savoury and food-demanding red from this respected property in Pic Saint-Loup, which nestles (relatively) undiscovered at an altitude of 300m in the northern reaches of the region. Made by traditional winemaking and bottled unfiltered; again super value for money.