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01 February 2009

Roussillon: Clos de Paulilles, Port-Vendres

UPDATE - the Dauré family sold the property to the Maison Cazes / AdVini group in 2013...

Clos de Paulilles is a 90 hectare (220 acre) estate, the biggest in the area with most of the vines spread around the stone cellar; something you don't often see amid the intricate collage of vineyards running along the coast from Collioure to Cerbère. Vines and winery nestle close to the sea on a picturesque bay between Port Vendres and Banyuls-sur-Mer, and the outdoor restaurant is open throughout the summer. The Dauré family also offers al fresco dining at Château de Jau, their property near Cases de Pène tucked away in the northern Roussillon countryside. They own a Chilean winery as well called Viña las Niñas.

Tasted Oct 2006:
2005 Collioure blanc (Grenache blanc & gris part fermented in barriques) - a bit cold for tasting (as opposed to nice temperature for quaffing) but shows floral notes, crisp mineral and aniseed palate with nutty rounded yet fresh finish. 85
2005 Collioure rosé (Grenache Syrah) - lots of vibrant red fruit aromas and flavours, quite chunky mouth-feel, textured and tasty v crisp and long. 87-89
2002 Collioure rouge (70+% Mourvèdre & Syrah) - smoky and ripe, nice grip v mature fruit, still could develop; good for a 2002. 89
2003 Banyuls 'Vintage' (= Rimage, see below. 100% Grenache) - lovely fresh black cherry fruit, solid dry tannins v sweet fruit, attractive style. 90
2002 Banyuls Cap Béar (aged in bonbonnes = glass demijohns. 100% Grenache) - more tawny in style with rich dried fruits, softer tannins and leather & raisin notes, long fine finish. 90-92

By the way, I also tried these Château de Jau wines (a tasting measure of each I hasten to add) with the grilled lunch menu at their idyllic restaurant in September:
2005 Côtes du Roussillon blanc (Vermentino Roussanne Marsanne) - fresh and mineral with crisp citrus fruit v touches of yeast-lees. Served with fougasse aux olives, a Mediterranean flat bread.
2005 Le Jaja de Jau rosé, vin de pays d'Oc (Grenache Syrah) - fun quaffable fruit juice to go with toasted tomato bread & cured ham.
2002 Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Syrah Mourvèdre Carignan Grenache) - mature rustic style, nice dried cherry fruit on an easy palate; drinking now, it won't get any better. Grilled lamb cutlets.
2005 Muscat de Rivesaltes - lovely intense lemon and grape aromas, refreshing bite v rich sweetness; works well with the Roquefort.

Wine of the moment February 2009:
2008 Les Clos de Paulilles rosé Collioure (Grenache Syrah 13%) - chunky, red-fruity style with nice 'vinous' style, texture and weight; dry and zingy v creamy and full. A touch pricey though at €7.50. 87+

Clos de Paulilles, 66660 Port-Vendres (signposted off the main road between Port-Vendres and Banyuls-sur-Mer). Tel: 04 68 98 07 58.

Languedoc: Domaine La Sauvageonne, Terrasses du Larzac

The city of Montpellier, or any city or town even, certainly feels very distant from aptly named La Sauvageonne, with its spectacularly rugged hilly vista perched up on the lower edges of the Massif Central range. This face-lifted 32-ha domaine (80 acres), which was bought by businessman Fred Brown in 2001 (and sold in 2011: see update below), is found about 50km northwest of Montpellier in fact; on the Terrasses du Larzac high ground just beyond the little village of St-Jean-de-Blaquière. A sommelier in a past life, English estate manager and winemaker Gavin Crisfield (no longer: see update below) nurtures premium Syrah, Carignan and Grenache from different vineyard parcels (at 150m - 400m altitude = 500-1300 feet), much of it covered in chunks of brownish red schist and rough stones (see pic) making the terroir here all the more tangible and challenging. Hence the names of each wine on the label, such as Pica Broca and Puech de Glen - the latter, curiously Occitan/Scots sounding cuvée made mostly from their best and highest-lying Syrah.

Tasted in situ February 2009:
2007 Sauvignon blanc Vin de Pays du Montbaudille (with a hint of Muscat and, from the 2008 vintage, will have Vermentino and Viognier too) - still quite fresh and zesty actually, nice lively mineral side with light citrus fruit. 80+
2008 rosé (Cinsault, 
Grenache) - lively and refreshing style, attractive raspberry and cream flavours, very drinkable on its own but would be good with most food too. 85+
2007 Les Ruffes (
Grenache, Carignan, Syrah, Cinsault) - smoky v lightly herby with liquorice and leather edges; lovely fruit and 'sweet & savoury' profile with subtle bitter twist and grip in the mouth, nice depth and richness v drinkable refreshing style. €6 87-89
2007 Pica Broca (
Syrah, Grenache, Carignan) - more black cherry and chocolate aromas / flavours; firmer structure as well although again has that attractive balance of lush v tight mouth-feel, long finish too; needs 6+ months in bottle but it's still nice now! 88-90
2005 Pica Broca (
Syrah, Grenache, Carignan) - delicious smoky maturing nose; has more depth and concentration than the 07, chunky with nice coating of tannins layered with 'sweet & savoury' complexity and lovely length. 90-92
2005 Merlot/Cabernet Vin de pays - cassis and tobacco on the nose; pretty rich v very firm and powerful palate, its 14.5% adds a bit of oomph but it's also very concentrated with dry savoury finish. Wow. 90
2005 Puech de Glen (mostly Syrah) - enticing grilled wild black fruit nose with herbal v meaty edges (echoes of maturing Cote Rotie!); concentration and big tannins on the palate, stylish too with nicely developing fruit yet still plenty of life in it. €16 92-94


Previous vintages here (Vinisud 2006).

Latest news: Gavin left and is now doing his own thing called La Traversée; and the estate was recently sold to the Gérard Bertrand group (late 2011): there's a review of one wine in this report.

30 January 2009

Roussillon: Mas dels Clots, Salses le Château

From www.masdesclots.comMichel Piquemal took over this off the beaten track estate in 1982, which is lost in the middle of nowhere almost into the Corbières (you need to take the Opoul road out of Salses under the motorway, keep going and follow the sign to the right until you run out of 'road'). Michel works all his 30 ha/75 acres himself and organically as well, which he says "is good for export but in France most people don't care!" The predominant varieties planted are Grenache and Mourvèdre, and he makes about 60% red wines, 30% VDN and 10 rosé/white.
Like many growers in the region, he despairs at the Roussillon's (unjustifiably) wanting image especially outside France, with the Languedoc usually hogging the limelight: "don't talk to me about the Languedoc, we're Catalan here!" There was some underlying irony there, especially as the Mas is a stone's throw from the 'border' with the Aude region and hence Languedoc. However, he thinks the 'South of France' labelling-idea could be good for some producers, whereas "I'm small small small." Meaning it's better for growers like him to focus on
terroir and "micro-cuvées" to keep a point of difference and sharper identity, even if it makes this kind of wines more complicated to understand: "it's also their very charm," as Michel put it. On the entertainment front, he occasionally organises tastings with vineyard barbeque in conjunction with other organic growers. The MDC wines are reasonably priced too: from €4.50 to €6.50 for the reds and €8 to €11.30 for VDNs.

I tasted these two vat/barrel samples in March 2007:
2006 blend of mostly Grenache and Syrah - lovely fruit and spice v grip and power, fresh bite too on its long finish. 87-89
2005 Côtes du Roussillon Villages (after 18 months in oak) - nice spicy coconut backdrop to a tight firm palate; good depth of black fruits, length and again freshness.
87-89
2009 Update: the opera-themed wines below were tasted with Michel at this year's Millésime Bio wine show (Montpellier Jan. 2009). By the way, his prices haven't changed much: €5 to €6.50 for white, rosé and reds; and €7.50 to €11.30 for quite a variety of VDN styles, as you'll see:
2007 cuvée Aïda Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Syrah Grenache Carignan) - nice juicy spicy fruit, soft-ish tannins v punchy finish. 83-85
2005 cuvée Casta Diva Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre) - touch of vanilla oak v juicy black cherry and liquorice, firm v rounded finish. 85+
2006 cuvée Tosca Côtes du Roussillon Villages (50/50 Grenache Syrah) - vibrant black cherry and liquorice notes; gripping dry texture v fruity flavours, quite powerful too (14.5%) but not out of kilter. 87+
Rivesaltes ambré Hors d'Age (Grenache Gris & Macabeu: base wine is 2003 + some much older giving an average age of about 10 years) - beginning to turn toffeed and pecan nutty with shades of very sweet raspberries; nutty caramelised flavours v spicy and lively, complex and long. 89+
1995 Rancio (Grenache Gris & Macabeu: aged using a solera system) - wow, more raisiny and oxidised with rich walnut notes; tastes drier but it isn't, very long and intricate v punchy finish. 92+
2003 Muscat de Rivesaltes (barrique-aged style) - cooked orange peel aromas, vanilla and marmalade on the palate, rounded and sweet v refreshing bite; unusual and very nice. 89+
Mas dels Clots, 66600 Salses le Château. Tel: 04 68 64 20 13, mobile 06 61 20 99 40; michel.piquemal@masdesclots.com, www.masdesclots.com.

Roussillon: Château Monty

"Château" Monty: inverted commas as it's not really a Chateau but the name of writer, biodynamic consultant and now broadcaster-winemaker Monty Waldin's TV programme (shown autumn 2008 on Channel 4 in the UK) and book; as you can see from the picture I stole off his website: click on the link below. So, for those of you who watched and/or read it; you already know the 'trials & tribulations' story about Monty's dream to rent a vineyard (in the northern Roussillon, from friend and mentor Eric Laguerre), farm it and produce grapes using biodynamic principles and methods, make a red wine and sell it to a British wine merchant. All set to a rather nice backdrop, of course, giving you a good feel for what it's like to try to be as natural a winegrower as possible.
For more info on biodynamics etc., again have a look at his site as he knows more about it than me by a long way; also click here for a report I did on a biodynamic growers' tasting three years ago, with a few words from Nicolas Joly. Monty now lives in Tuscany most of the time, when he's not mixing up his witches' brews in St-Martin de Fenouillet. Anyway, I bumped into him at this year's Millésime Bio wine show (Jan 2009, Montpellier), where he had samples of his 2008 wines hidden underneath Eric's stand. He's made a white and rosé too this vintage, by the way; all three are available in the UK in Adnam's wine shops at £8.99. 
Here's my verdict for what it's worth:

2008 Monty's white (Macabeu) - aromatic and appley v light exotic fruit and a tad of creaminess; fresh and mineral mouth-feel v touch of weight and nice length. 87+
July 2009: I tried the bottled version of the white, blind in fact, and found it more appley and real cider like with nutty, verging on oxidising actually, peach stone edges; lost a bit of its zesty side although it's definitely quite wild and funky, if that's your thing. 85+
2008 Monty's rosé - steely crisp style with elegant rose petal and red fruit notes; again nice dry zesty finish. 87
2008 Monty's red (Carignan + a tad of Syrah) - delicious aromatic crunchy blueberry and cassis fruit; tasty palate turning more savoury on the finish, good mix of nice quaffer v substance and grip. 87+

Update: the 2009 vintage Chateau Monty wines are from and made in Tuscany, as that's where he lives now, so I'll report back if and when I get the chance to try them... And the new edition of Monty's book on biodynamic wines is now available, print-on-demand, from lulu.com. More info @ www.montywaldin.com

27 January 2009

Organic Burgundy: Boyer, Giboulot, Goisot, de Suremain, Tripoz

Domaine Renaud Boyer - Meursault


Renaud Boyer is a relatively recent arrival in the village of Meursault (although his family is no stranger to vines and vino), where you'll find his winery and office; the organically nurtured vineyards are scattered across three other nearby appellations with equally famous names, as you can see below (sampled at Millésime Bio wine fair, Montpellier January 2009). Racy, taut and at first not very revealing wines that appear to need much more time in bottle...
2005 Puligny-Montrachet Les Reuchaux (Chardonnay) - unusual wild herbal nose moving on to the palate too; spicy green notes v weighty and lush, very crisp acidity closing up on its appley finish.
2006 Saint-Romain (Pinot Noir) - delicate pure 'sweet & savoury' aromas / flavours, almost raisined yet meaty too; firm and fresh mouth-feel and tight finish but it should come out in a year or two. 88+
2006 Beaune Les Prévolles (Pinot Noir) - more raisiny and developed v tight juicy structure, refined perfumed 'sweet & savoury' style.
renaud.boyer@infonie.fr


Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot - Beaune

Emmanuel Giboulot has 10 ha (25 acres) of red and white varieties (well, Chardy and Pinot as it goes without saying) that charm their way into as many different appellations / labels - that's real Burgundy for you I guess. He's been applying organic and now biodynamic ideas and techniques to his vineyards, environment and wines since 1985; aided and abetted by Pierre Fenals in the field and Cristina Otel in the cellar. Here are four of them tried and tested at Millésime Bio wine show, Montpellier Jan. 2009:
2007 Terres Burgondes Vin de Pays (Chardonnay) - attractive creamy notes with light wood backdrop, nuttier finish with oily v zippy texture. 85+
2007 Côte de Beaune La Grande Chatelaine (Chardonnay) - closed on the nose, moves on to full creamy mouth-feel with subtle toast, exotic fruit v mineral freshness; closes up again, quite fine and promising. 89+
2006 Côte de Beaune La Combe d'Eve (Chardonnay) - much nuttier and more oxidised/oxidative in style; rounded hazelnut palate with fresh dry bite. 89
2007 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Sous le Mont (Pinot Noir) - evasive on the aroma front at the moment; subtle spicy 'sweet & savoury' flavours, perfumed too v quite lean and structured. Give it a year. 85+
Previous Giboulot vintages here (Millésime Bio 2005).
emmanuel.giboulot@wanadoo.fr


Domaine Goisot - Saint-Bris-le-Vineux

This family estate, steered by Ghislaine and Jean-Hugues Goisot, is really old apparently: 14th-Century roots according to their website. There's quite a bit of illuminating info on that site (link below), although it does include the odd irksome cliché: e.g. "wine is made in the vineyard blah blah." True to an extent for sure but, hey, those machines and barrels don't just sit there unused. Apologies for the rant, as Ghislaine & Jean-Hugues's wines are rather good - I tried the ones below at Millésime Bio wine show in Montpellier in January 2009, meaning it's another organically farmed operation to join these increasingly organic pages. St-Bris and Irancy, lying just south of the town of Auxerre, are north north in Burgundian terms: some might quip it isn't really Burgundy-proper but it is quite close to (and southwest of) Chablis, even if the very southern part of the Champagne region is also surprisingly near(ish). Enough of the geography lesson:
2007 Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre (Chardonnay) - delicious elegant buttery v mineral aromas and flavours, poise and finesse to finish. 88-90
2007 Saint-Bris Moury (Sauvignon "or Sauvignon jaune or Sauvignon fumé"?!) - steely citrus and green fruit nose and initial mouth-feel; also has yeast-lees richness and oilier texture giving it roundness v that crisp finish. 87
2006 Côtes d'Auxerre Corps de Garde (Pinot Noir) - enticing pure perfumed Pinot aromas, 'sweet & savoury' style; fine and fresh palate with leathery and velvety touches. 88-90
2006 Irancy Les Mazelots (Pinot Noir) - similar but richer v firmer, tight acid structure and closes up on the finish with underlying 'sweet & savoury' profile; needs longer I think. 89+
www.goisot.com


Domaine Eric de Suremain - Monthélie

Farmed and star-charted according to the biodynamic cosmos since 1996, which must make them right old hippies in the scheme of things since most people (including me) hadn't even heard of BD then. Jesting aside (as anyone who's read anything on this site will know, I might like to tease a little on the subject of biodynamic goings-on; but am a follower at the end of the day). Anyway, having met them at Millésime Bio wine show in Montpellier in Jan. 2009; they aren't old, just wise I'd say looking at the five wines I tasted, below. They don't have a website (?) so I can't copy a picture for you; no doubt a good thing though, as they probably spend lots of time in the vineyard - near their home, the charming-looking Château de Monthélie sandwiched between Volnay, Meursault and Auxey-Duresses; and also in the Rully appellation about 10km to the south - rather than messing around updating a website. Eric de Suremain's ("steady hand" literally) wines appear to be well-distributed from what turned up in a Google search: Justerini's in the UK, for example.
2006 Rully Premier Cru (Chardonnay) - quite steely and mineral in style with crisp intense mouth-feel, although there's very light creamy oily touches to finish with; still young it seems. 87+?
2004 Rully Premier Cru (Chardonnay) - coming across as much richer and more mature, nice mix of butter v celery notes; lovely balance and length, concentration too as the palate unfurls. 89-91
2006 Rully 1er Cru Préaux (Pinot Noir) - attractive combination of 'sweet' raisiny cherry fruit and savoury edges; firm and fresh mouth-feel v lush yet lively, again appears youthful and powerful (the 06s do I guess). 88-90
2006 Château de Monthélie (Pinot Noir) - much more open than the other 06s, showing lovely perfumed Pinot style; turning savoury and tasty on the palate with firm tannins and acidity, subtle long finish. 90-92
2004 Château de Monthélie, Monthélie 1er Cru Sur la Velle (Pinot Noir) - a bit extracted and dry although it does have some nice floral 'sweet & savoury' character on the finish. I guess the 04 reds are less charming than the 06s. 89?
desuremain@wanadoo.fr


Domaine Tripoz - Loché

Céline and Laurent Tripoz have 11 hectares (27 acres) spread around the village of Loché (quite literally: there's a nice aerial shot pinpointing the different plots on their website) in the region known as the Mâconnais, at the southern end of Burgundy (actually not far from some of the northern Beaujolais Villages appellations such as Juliénas or Saint-Amour). They've converted over to organics within the last few years and have been certified biodynamic (by Demeter) since the 2006 vintage. I particularly liked their Crémant, which is a 'Nature' style i.e. no added sugar so completely dry; although I wasn't fond of their Bourgogne rouge. These whites and the fizz were tried at Millésime Bio wine show held in Montpellier in Jan. 2009:
Crémant de Bourgogne Nature - appley v toasty and biscuity; elegant mouth-watering palate, on the one hand very dry yet has nice honeyed biscuit flavours too. Yum. 90
2007 Mâcon-Loché (Chardonnay) - ripe and creamy v fresh and mineral, attractively buttery cut by fresh acidity. 87-89
2007 Mâcon-Vinzelles Les Morandes (Chardonnay) - Chablis-like steely green edges moving on to more buttery and rounded mouth-feel, again mineral freshness and length. 88-90
2007 Pouilly-Loché Réserve (Chardonnay) - lightly toasty nose getting oakier on the palate; big and rounded, again with refreshing acidity but it's a tad too woody in the end. 85
www.tripoz.fr


24 January 2009

Languedoc: Borie La Vitarèle, Saint-Chinian

UPDATED JAN 2014 (goes there) - and see links at bottom too.

Certified organic and farmed along biodynamic lines by Cathy Planès and Jean François Izarn, this charming 16 ha/40 acre property is lost in the countryside beyond the village co-op (it's nicely signposted though). Their Saint-Chinian appellation wines are labelled by vineyard site, such as Les Schistes (more than one type of schist, obviously: plural schists sounds odd in English) or Terres Blanches (chalk & clay), reflecting the varieties planted and nurtured across different plots and soils. They also appear to have been quite successful with Cabernet and, more surprisingly, Merlot (see notes below) in this area since setting up the domaine in 1990. Cathy and Jean François can also provide full-blown meals in their cosy ferme-auberge (farmhouse-inn literally) for a minimum of ten people,if booked in advance (including a good dose of organic food, I assume, matched with the estate's wines), which must be a great way to integrate the actual flavours of their labours, andphilosophy, with good hearty local produce.

I tasted these in situ in November 2007:
2006 La Cuvée des Cigales, Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Murviel (Grenache Merlot) – nice fruity spicy style showing a bit of grip and depth too, easy drinking and ready to do so. 83-85
2006 Terres Blanches, St-Chinian (80% 
Grenache 20% Syrah) – attractive rich black cherry fruit with liquorice tones, quite chunky tannins v fruit concentration, power and length; needs a few months at least to open up, lovely length and style. 89-91
2001 La Combe, Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Murviel (60% 
Cabernet Sauvignon plus Syrah Merlot) – appealing 'volatile' complexity and developing fruit, meaty with perfumed cassis edges; maturing palate v rather stonky tannins, powerful yet lush finish. 88-90


And these at Millésime Bio wine show Jan 2009, Montpellier:
2008 Terres Blanches (vat sample) - lovely intensity of peppery black cherry and cassis fruit; firm and 'chalky' texture v fruity and silkily structured. 89+
2007 Les Schistes (
Grenache Syrah Carignan) - firmer and more structured v richer mouth-feel, very spicy dark fruit with power and promise. 90-92
2007 La Combe (
Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah) - smokier and more rustic, very chunky and solidly textured v ripe cassis and prune, again powerful finish. 90
2006 Les Cr
ès (Syrah Mourvèdre) - still a bit closed on the nose, concentrated and very firm with a tad of coco/chocolate oak; pretty huge and quite extracted but also has nice developing tobacco edges and plenty of lush fruit. Needs 6-12 months to come together properly. 92+?

View my notes on more BLV wines by clicking here (Millésime Bio 2006) and here (Montpellier 2005).

UPDATES: latest La Vitarèle HERE (special St-Chinian supplement Jan 2014), here (St-Chinian report April 2011 inc. their Terres Blanches 2009 & 2010 vintages) and here (2009 vintage report, June 2010).


La Combe, 34490 Causses-et-Veyran. Tel: 04 67 89 50 43, fax: 04 67 89 70 79; jf.izarn@libertysurf.frwww.borielavitarele.fr.

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