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27 January 2009

Organic Burgundy: Boyer, Giboulot, Goisot, de Suremain, Tripoz

Domaine Renaud Boyer - Meursault

Renaud Boyer is a relatively recent arrival in the village of Meursault (although his family is no stranger to vines and vino), where you'll find his winery and office; the organically nurtured vineyards are scattered across three other nearby appellations with equally famous names, as you can see below (sampled at Millésime Bio wine fair, Montpellier January 2009). Racy, taut and at first not very revealing wines that appear to need much more time in bottle...
2005 Puligny-Montrachet Les Reuchaux (Chardonnay) - unusual wild herbal nose moving on to the palate too; spicy green notes v weighty and lush, very crisp acidity closing up on its appley finish.
2006 Saint-Romain (Pinot Noir) - delicate pure 'sweet & savoury' aromas / flavours, almost raisined yet meaty too; firm and fresh mouth-feel and tight finish but it should come out in a year or two. 88+
2006 Beaune Les Prévolles (Pinot Noir) - more raisiny and developed v tight juicy structure, refined perfumed 'sweet & savoury' style.

Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot - Beaune

Emmanuel Giboulot has 10 ha (25 acres) of red and white varieties (well, Chardy and Pinot as it goes without saying) that charm their way into as many different appellations / labels - that's real Burgundy for you I guess. He's been applying organic and now biodynamic ideas and techniques to his vineyards, environment and wines since 1985; aided and abetted by Pierre Fenals in the field and Cristina Otel in the cellar. Here are four of them tried and tested at Millésime Bio wine show, Montpellier Jan. 2009:
2007 Terres Burgondes Vin de Pays (Chardonnay) - attractive creamy notes with light wood backdrop, nuttier finish with oily v zippy texture. 85+
2007 Côte de Beaune La Grande Chatelaine (Chardonnay) - closed on the nose, moves on to full creamy mouth-feel with subtle toast, exotic fruit v mineral freshness; closes up again, quite fine and promising. 89+
2006 Côte de Beaune La Combe d'Eve (Chardonnay) - much nuttier and more oxidised/oxidative in style; rounded hazelnut palate with fresh dry bite. 89
2007 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Sous le Mont (Pinot Noir) - evasive on the aroma front at the moment; subtle spicy 'sweet & savoury' flavours, perfumed too v quite lean and structured. Give it a year. 85+
Previous Giboulot vintages here (Millésime Bio 2005).

Domaine Goisot - Saint-Bris-le-Vineux

This family estate, steered by Ghislaine and Jean-Hugues Goisot, is really old apparently: 14th-Century roots according to their website. There's quite a bit of illuminating info on that site (link below), although it does include the odd irksome cliché: e.g. "wine is made in the vineyard blah blah." True to an extent for sure but, hey, those machines and barrels don't just sit there unused. Apologies for the rant, as Ghislaine & Jean-Hugues's wines are rather good - I tried the ones below at Millésime Bio wine show in Montpellier in January 2009, meaning it's another organically farmed operation to join these increasingly organic pages. St-Bris and Irancy, lying just south of the town of Auxerre, are north north in Burgundian terms: some might quip it isn't really Burgundy-proper but it is quite close to (and southwest of) Chablis, even if the very southern part of the Champagne region is also surprisingly near(ish). Enough of the geography lesson:
2007 Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre (Chardonnay) - delicious elegant buttery v mineral aromas and flavours, poise and finesse to finish. 88-90
2007 Saint-Bris Moury (Sauvignon "or Sauvignon jaune or Sauvignon fumé"?!) - steely citrus and green fruit nose and initial mouth-feel; also has yeast-lees richness and oilier texture giving it roundness v that crisp finish. 87
2006 Côtes d'Auxerre Corps de Garde (Pinot Noir) - enticing pure perfumed Pinot aromas, 'sweet & savoury' style; fine and fresh palate with leathery and velvety touches. 88-90
2006 Irancy Les Mazelots (Pinot Noir) - similar but richer v firmer, tight acid structure and closes up on the finish with underlying 'sweet & savoury' profile; needs longer I think. 89+

Domaine Eric de Suremain - Monthélie

Farmed and star-charted according to the biodynamic cosmos since 1996, which must make them right old hippies in the scheme of things since most people (including me) hadn't even heard of BD then. Jesting aside (as anyone who's read anything on this site will know, I might like to tease a little on the subject of biodynamic goings-on; but am a follower at the end of the day). Anyway, having met them at Millésime Bio wine show in Montpellier in Jan. 2009; they aren't old, just wise I'd say looking at the five wines I tasted, below. They don't have a website (?) so I can't copy a picture for you; no doubt a good thing though, as they probably spend lots of time in the vineyard - near their home, the charming-looking Château de Monthélie sandwiched between Volnay, Meursault and Auxey-Duresses; and also in the Rully appellation about 10km to the south - rather than messing around updating a website. Eric de Suremain's ("steady hand" literally) wines appear to be well-distributed from what turned up in a Google search: Justerini's in the UK, for example.
2006 Rully Premier Cru (Chardonnay) - quite steely and mineral in style with crisp intense mouth-feel, although there's very light creamy oily touches to finish with; still young it seems. 87+?
2004 Rully Premier Cru (Chardonnay) - coming across as much richer and more mature, nice mix of butter v celery notes; lovely balance and length, concentration too as the palate unfurls. 89-91
2006 Rully 1er Cru Préaux (Pinot Noir) - attractive combination of 'sweet' raisiny cherry fruit and savoury edges; firm and fresh mouth-feel v lush yet lively, again appears youthful and powerful (the 06s do I guess). 88-90
2006 Château de Monthélie (Pinot Noir) - much more open than the other 06s, showing lovely perfumed Pinot style; turning savoury and tasty on the palate with firm tannins and acidity, subtle long finish. 90-92
2004 Château de Monthélie, Monthélie 1er Cru Sur la Velle (Pinot Noir) - a bit extracted and dry although it does have some nice floral 'sweet & savoury' character on the finish. I guess the 04 reds are less charming than the 06s. 89?

Domaine Tripoz - Loché

Céline and Laurent Tripoz have 11 hectares (27 acres) spread around the village of Loché (quite literally: there's a nice aerial shot pinpointing the different plots on their website) in the region known as the Mâconnais, at the southern end of Burgundy (actually not far from some of the northern Beaujolais Villages appellations such as Juliénas or Saint-Amour). They've converted over to organics within the last few years and have been certified biodynamic (by Demeter) since the 2006 vintage. I particularly liked their Crémant, which is a 'Nature' style i.e. no added sugar so completely dry; although I wasn't fond of their Bourgogne rouge. These whites and the fizz were tried at Millésime Bio wine show held in Montpellier in Jan. 2009:
Crémant de Bourgogne Nature - appley v toasty and biscuity; elegant mouth-watering palate, on the one hand very dry yet has nice honeyed biscuit flavours too. Yum. 90
2007 Mâcon-Loché (Chardonnay) - ripe and creamy v fresh and mineral, attractively buttery cut by fresh acidity. 87-89
2007 Mâcon-Vinzelles Les Morandes (Chardonnay) - Chablis-like steely green edges moving on to more buttery and rounded mouth-feel, again mineral freshness and length. 88-90
2007 Pouilly-Loché Réserve (Chardonnay) - lightly toasty nose getting oakier on the palate; big and rounded, again with refreshing acidity but it's a tad too woody in the end. 85

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Header image: Château de Flandry, Limoux, Languedoc. Background: Vineyard near Terrats in Les Aspres, Roussillon.