From tablascreek.com
My pick from a recent California Wine tasting in Dublin of half-a-dozen random reds and a white made from varieties such as Zinfandel, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Petite Sirah, Grenache noir and blanc and Viognier. This is the first of a few posts highlighting California red and white wines available in Ireland and the UK.
The next lot of red recommendations will be part of a broader review of Pinot Noir from different areas of the Golden State compared with top Pinots from Australia and New Zealand. There was a good amount of high quality although expensive wines to choose from.
Tablas Creek
This "regenerative organic certified vineyard" was founded in 1989 by the Perrin family (Château de Beaucastel and other southern Rhone Valley properties) and the Haas family (Vineyard Brands) in the Adelaida District of Paso Robles (slightly inland on the central coast), apparently "chosen for its similarities to Châteauneuf-du-Pape." They imported vines from Beaucastel including Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Viognier, Picpoul Blanc, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah and Counoise. Imported by Liberty Wines (Dublin and London).
Tablas Creek Mourvèdre 2018 (13% abv): Limited production varietal (most of the Mourvèdre goes into their Esprit de Tablas blend). Maturing smoky notes with savoury, peppery and wild herby nuances, still has a little structured grip of tannins balanced by tasty developed fruit. Very nice, aged, Bandol-style California red. $50-$60, £36-£40.
Patelin de Tablas Blanc 2022 (12.5%): 50% Grenache Blanc, 30% Viognier plus Marsanne, Vermentino, Roussanne, Picpoul and Bourboulenc. Mature oily nose with lush apricot fruit, fresh acidity and length with nutty characters. Very good, different for sure. $23-$28, £23.
Turley Wine Cellars
Turley was established in the Napa Valley 30 years ago, but their range is built on grapes from multiple vineyard sites such as the old vine Zin below, which is also sourced from neighbouring Sonoma and Mendocino to the north, Lodi (inland valleys), Amador (Sierra foothills), Contra Costa and Paso Robles (central coast). Their focus is "primarily Zinfandel and Petite Syrah, with many vines dating back to the late 1800s." Imported by Carrington Wine Merchants, Dublin, and Thorman Hunt, London.
Old vine from turleywinecellars.com.
Turley Juvenile Zinfandel 2022 (15.2% abv): 6-25 year-old vines from 27 vineyards in 11 counties; similar barrel-ageing to below. Rich 'tar' and black fruits on the nose, grip of tannins countered by lovely dark spicy fruit, powerful finish. $27-$30, £34-£39.
Turley Old Vines Zinfandel 2022 (15.2% abv): 95% Zinfandel, 5% Mataro (Mourvèdre), Alicante Bouschet, Petite Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault (all 50-130 years); 12 months in mostly used, mostly French oak. Rich and aromatic blackberry fruit with wild herb tones, enticing dried fruit and 'tobacco' notes, firm and punchy mouthfeel while very concentrated. Really good stuff. $33-$38, £36-£45.
Pax Sonoma Hillsides Syrah 2023 (12.5% abv): 100% whole-bunch Syrah fermented with indigenous yeast in concrete and some carbonic maceration, aged in used 500L barrels and concrete vats. Intense nose with peppery minty and herby notes, firm structured style with crunchy black fruits and tight finish; should age well. $60-$70, €85 (imported by winelab.ie).
Set up by Pax and Pamela Mahle in 1997, this particular unusual style of Syrah was "inspired by the flamboyant wines of St. Joseph," and a trip to the northern Rhone Valley, where they tasted wines made by Raymond Trollat.
Halcon Estate Syrah 2021 Yorkville Highlands (13% abv): Planted by the original owners Paul and Jackie Gordon in 2005, this vineyard is now owned by Pax Mahle and Baron Ziegler and is located high-up at 2500 feet (750 metres) altitude in Mendocino County, "one of the highest sites in all of California." Also 100% whole-cluster Syrah aged in "a combination of new and used cooperage and formats." Wild and smoky start followed by an austere grippy palate, lots of white pepper and tart black fruits, very tightly structured and lingering finish; intense and eccentric wine! $80, €95 (WineLab). Bottle shot from halconwines.com.
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