Languedoc: Clos Bagatelle, Saint-Chinian

Updated September 2013 - click here to read - featuring their delicious 2000 vintage La Gloire de Mon Père...

Clos Bagatelle, originally the name ("lieu-dit") of a smaller plot of land here, now stretches to around 60 hectares (150 acres) on the outskirts of St-Chinian 'town' itself and some vines in St-Jean de Minervois as well presumably, as they also appear to make a sweet fortified Muscat from this lesser-known appellation lying a little to the west. I’ve tried their wines on three occasions in the last four years and have been consistently impressed; and tasted the first three wines noted below over lunch with Christine Deleuze in Montpellier in March this year during the “Languedoc Millésimes” marathon tasting week. Christine runs the estate with her brother Luc Simon, whose family has been here since the 17th Century apparently.

I’ve used my ‘new’ scoring system of one, two or three ‘ticks’ (good, very good, fabulous); or just plain 1 to 3 here. Euro prices below are cellar door per bottle inc. taxes. More info @ closbagatelle.com (currently "under construction"). Some CB wines are available in the UK from terroirlanguedoc.co.uk (£12-£20), redrobewines.co.uk (£6.95-£8.50) and gauntleys.com (£8.50-£9.50); and tedwardwines.com in New York City.

Donnadieu "Camille et Juliette" rosé 2010 (Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre 13%) - again a pale "rosé de presse" style (they’ve stopped doing saignée rosé), subtle and crisp with red vs creamy fruit, tight and quite steely finish. 1+ €6.50

Bagatelle white 2010 (Roussanne, Grenache blanc, Carignan blanc, Vermentino, Chenin) - milky leesy edges with light toast vs juicy and quite rich mouth-feel, attractive mineral/celery/aniseed tones vs weight on the finish. 2

Veillée d’Automne red 2008 (13.5%) - a tad baked with nice cherry/berry fruit though and wild herby edges; quite rich vs freshness underneath adding an elegant touch vs a bit of power too, turning mature/savoury vs sweet strawberry/cherry. 1+

And tasted in March 2009: Terre de mon Père 2009 (Syrah/Mourvèdre/Grenache) - similar profile to their floral, sweet-cherry and cassis-laden Mathieu et Marie 09 (better value too at €6.20 and 2) but chunkier and grippier; still has that delicious intense minty thing vs rich and long dry finish. €20 2+

And April 2007: La Gloire de Mon Père 2004 (13%) - very rich tar v floral Syrah? notes, chunky and lush v firm tannins; coffee and liquorice flavours linger on an earthy v 'sweet' finish, long and full. €20 3

Languedoc: Domaine La Croix Chaptal, Terrasses du Larzac

Charles-Walter Pacaud makes some fairly classic high-ground Med reds up in the blink-and-miss-it old-as-time “village” of Cambous found not far from slightly better known Saint André de Sangonis (about 30km northwest of Montpellier). But he has another somewhat unusual trump up his sleeve in the form of a white wine: the Clairette variety and old ones too. There’s actually a separate appellation for dry whites in this area made from 100% Clairette; Charles told me that, when he bought this 25 hectare (60 acre) property, he was tempted to remove and replace this old-vine Clairette, which locally was mostly used to produce drink-young whites in a light refreshing style that often lacked a bit of character. And people offering advice at that time weren’t very enamoured with it suggesting he pulled it up to replant more red varieties.

Well, he didn’t and good job too. From the four vintages of his Clairette I tried with him at Chez Boris restaurant in Montpellier on 20 March 2011, this neglected variety can turn out something rather inspiring and age-worthy too, if treated right in the vineyard (planted in chalky pebbly soils, restricted yields) and cellar (e.g. judicious lees-ageing). La Croix Chaptal also makes a range of red, white and rosé Coteaux du Languedoc wines, three very different and more selected Terrasses du Larzac reds and a trio of quirky late-picked botrytised whites / a red even… Their wines are distributed in the UK, USA, Canada, Germany, Switzerland, Denmark, Belgium and elsewhere in Europe; and "maybe soon" in the Far East. See www.lacroixchaptal.com for importer/retailer contact details.

2003 Cuvée Charles (Carignan, Syrah, Grenache) – still looking good with maturing savoury side, has an elegant touch actually for a hot-vintage 03 with attractive sweet/savoury finish vs a tad of grip and fresh bite keeping it alive. 2

2001 Cuvée Charles (Carignan, Syrah, Grenache) – more savoury and complex nose vs lighter and more mature palate, long and tasty finish though; very good but the 03 could outlast it. 2

2009 Clairette du Languedoc – a touch reductive on the nose, light bitter/aniseed twist in the mouth vs nice nutty Burgundy character, tightens up on the finish. Needs a few months to express itself. 1+

2008 Clairette – reductive/mineral notes again, turning fresher vs quite rich mouth-feel actually with leesy/nutty/creamy side, well balanced and stylish. 1-2

2007 Clairette – developing complex aromas with toasty edges even, quite full vs still zesty underneath, lovely style. 2

2006 Clairette – oxidising cider-y tones yet it’s still interesting, fatter palate but again has that attractive nutty side. (1)

Wine of the mo: Ancien Comté white Grenache

L’Ancien Comté Grenache blanc 2010 (13%) - very nice mix of “estery” pear and exotic pineapple with milky yeast-lees edges, zesty lively finish vs attractive bit of weight. Round of applause to Mont Tauch co-op winery in the Fitou highlands for understanding oak fermentation/ageing and a dry white wine that doesn’t taste of it. Great with fish & chips too. 2 (see below for explanation of my "new" rating system.) £7.95 Jeroboams, London.

Languedoc: Saint-Chinian 2010 vintage

This is another in a series of reports and winery profiles from five intensive days spent at the “Languedoc Millésimes” tastings in the region (21-25 March 2011), where I had the chance to taste mostly 2010, 2009 and 2008 vintages. As well as, more importantly and more fun, meet and talk to a couple of St-Chinian winemakers and try (drink/enjoy even; woops, not v. pc) some of their older wines too. I’ve used my ‘new’ scoring system of one, two or three ‘ticks’ (good, very good, fabulous); or just plain 1 to 3 here, if you get my drift. Euro prices are cellar door per bottle inc. taxes, added later so didn’t influence my notes.

Based on a hardly comprehensive/definitive sampling below, 2010 appears to have produced some good but not great white wines and lacklustre to good rosés. Quite a few of the red samples were looking a bit fragile or dumb or ugly-duckling, which is always a risk when raw and unfinished wines are left open to the air. However, certain bottles were already showing very well with similar hallmarks to other Languedoc regions: rich and concentrated with solid fruit and structure yet appealing-textured tannins. Mind you, I said stuff like that last year and the year before about the two previous vintages; and now 2008 is generally looking a bit of a mixed bag (for reds anyway, actually pretty sound for white and rosé) and 2009 can either really impress or rather disappoint.

2010 was a rollercoaster year of weather with a long cold winter, snow in early March in certain places (and not necessarily just on the hills), an awkward hesitant spring with warm weather then rainy and colder again, followed by a very hot and very dry summer, isolated storms in August/September although, generally, very warm right through till early October. Net result: vibrant high-quality reds, as described above, but low on the quantity front thanks to that challenging growing season. Further comments on these three vintages to follow, as I post more blurbs like this on other areas of the Languedoc.

Rugged St-Chinian wine-lands, from www.borielavitarele.fr

Saint-Chinian 2010 vintage

WHITE

Domaine des Soulié - estery fresh pear and grapey vs intricate aniseed/fennel tones, crisp and mineral bite. 1

Domaine La Croix Sainte Eulalie "tradition" (1/3 Roussanne, Grenache blanc, Vermentino) - similar although more perfumed and exotic/flowery, zesty/chalky mouth-feel, nice and zingy with that underlying flowery peach/apricot fruit. Acid/alcohol a bit hard at the moment although shows attractive oily vs crisp profile. 1+ €5.60

Domaine Rimbert (Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache blanc, Vermentino) - flowery and peachy, more intricate and interesting though on the nose; ends up a tad flat/dilute compared with above, although there's fresh acidity and nice bitter twist vs banana fruit. 1 €6.50

Cave de Roquebrun "Col de la Serre" (Grenache blanc, Roussanne) - milky/lightly toasty with quite rich exotic honey and apricot; subtle oak grain, fatter pineapple fruit vs mineral undertones. Touch clunky perhaps but attractive style overall and good value. 1 €4.50

Domaine du Sacré Coeur (Grenache blanc, Roussanne) - juicy fruity pineapple vs grapey floral tones, crisper palate and zesty finish. 1 €5.20

Cave des Vignerons St-Chinian "Secret des Capitelles" (Grenache blanc, Roussanne) - yeast-leesy buttery and full-on vs cut of acidity, fair mouthful although a bit flabby and simple. 0.5 €6.60

Domaine La Linquière "Fleur de Lin" (Grenache blanc, Vermentino) - ripe and honeyed with milky edges, rounded vs zingy with quite intense mineral side vs that quite exotic fruit. 1.5-2 €9

Clos Bagatelle (Roussanne, Grenache blanc, Carignan blanc, Vermentino, Chenin) - milky leesy edges with light toast vs juicy and quite rich mouth-feel, attractive mineral/celery/aniseed tones vs weight on the finish. 2

ROSÉ

Château Cazal Viel "Vieilles Vignes" (Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah) - elegant pink colour, rose petal and light red fruit notes, zingy crisp palate with subtle biter twist; fair class. 1-2 €7.60

Château Creissan "Cort d'Amor" (Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Mourvèdre) - pale pink, similar style to above although much less intense. OK at €4.

Domaine Moulinier (Syrah, Grenache) - quite delicate and tight, subtle creamy red fruits, lacks bit of zest perhaps but it’s OK. 0.5 €5.80

Domaine des Mathurins "Petite Fantaisie" (Syrah, Cinsault) - fuller orangey colour, oily/fruity style, more "vinous" and chunky, quite nice although lacks bit of class. 0.5 €4.50

Clos Bagatelle Donnadieu "Camille et Juliette" (Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre 13%) - again a pale "rosé de presse" style (they’ve stopped doing saignée rosé), subtle and crisp with red vs creamy fruit, tight and quite steely finish. 1+ €6.50

Château La Dournie (1/3 Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah) - quite elegant and zesty, nice crunchy redcurrant/cranberry then "sweeter" finish. 1 €5.70

Domaine La Linquière (Grenache, Syrah) - juicy fruity boiled sweetie, has a bit of leesy bite and creamier finish. €5

Domaine Rimbert "Le Rosé réussi" (Cinsault, Syrah) - oilier style with rounder strawberry fruit, bit of zing although ends tad bland maybe. 0.5 €5.80

RED - unfinished vat/cask samples

Château La Dournie "Elise" (Syrah, Grenache) - lovely minty wild spicy black cherry, peppery and punchy vs rich and fruity, quite a kick and nice firm/round tannins. 2 €13.50

Mas Champart "Causse du Bousquet" (Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache) - somewhat closed and awkward, a tad malo-lactic on the nose; nice fruit though and again soft-ish tannins. 1+? €11.60

Borie La Vitarele "Terres Blanches" (biodynamic) - again shows lovely fruit, pure vibrant dark cherry and liquorice with peppery edges; juicy vs concentrated, attractive coated tannins vs ripe black fruits vs wild herby touches. 2

Château La Madura "Grand Vin" (Mourvèdre, Syrah, Grenache, Carignan) - bit awkward and firm, not showing well. €17

Domaine de Pech Ménel (Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Mourvèdre) - malo notes but rich and chunky underneath, again fine tannins and concentrated mouthful. 2 €6-€7

La Croix Sainte Eulalie "Armandelis" (Syrah, Mourvèdre) - minty and wild flowers/herbs, nice fresh cherry fruit then spicier liquorice side, firmer palate vs solid depth. 2.5 €7.70

Domaine du Sacré Coeur - not showing much, taste it again in a few months.

Château Belot "Les Mouleyres" (Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache) - oak dominated, obviously, and structured vs rounded, could be promising if they don't keep it much longer in that new? oak. 1
Not sure who made these two, they had just one mysterious word stuck onto the bottle. Will find out and add producer's name:

Chant - lovely lavender and black cherry, nice tannins, darker vs more savoury finish with grip and tight elegant flourish. 2.5

Esprit - lots of new oak, fair substance underneath and very firm, difficult to taste but would like to come back to it.

Saint-Chinian red, other vintages

Le Prieuré des Mourgues Grande Réserve 2007 (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, 14%) - well balanced with solid tannins vs sweet fruit and developing savoury/animal notes, quite rich and spicy (paprika) vs attractive black cherry and length; maturing vs structured finish with firm vs rounded texture and lively flourish too. 2+ €12

Borie La Vitarèle Les Terres Blanches 2009 - lush black cherry with earthy peppery edges, solid vs appealing rounded palate finishing with sweet fruit and power. 2 €8.50

Mas de Cynanque L’Acutum 2008 (Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan; estate converting over to organic) - powerful with grainy texture vs rich cherry fruit, has a touch of freshness about it although it’s a bit “hot” too, attractive depth of fruit though. 1 €12 

Profile on Clos Bagatelle. Scan down the Languedoc winery A to Z for more, right hand column or do a search using "Saint Chinian."