Languedoc: Domaine Siméoni, Saint-Chinian

Domaine Siméoni

Cordial couple Sylvie and Franck Siméoni plunged themselves into running their domaine organically right from the start: they set up shop in the region in 2001, after leaving jobs in the north to try and make a living in Saint-Chinian wine country. Out of the several cuvées they make, their La Toure (mostly 100+ year-old Carignan from this namesake vineyard) and L'Ame des Schistes (usually Syrah and Mourvèdre) stand out in particular for this scribbler's palate. They also do some tasty and fun Vin de Pays varietals, quirkily labelled with a sense of humour: a stripy Mourvèdre red and rosé, a Syrah called La Tête à l'Envers ('head inside out' or 'wrong way round') and a Carignan Vin de Crise ('crisis wine')! Click here for notes on some of these, tasted at Millésime Bio in 2006.
Commendably and bravely (purely because it might be perceived as un-trendy or down-market by toasted plank fans), they stopped using any wood for ageing their wines in 2002. Other 'house secrets' include "preferring to pick everything very ripe then do less extraction during vinification," as Franck explained his non-rocket-science approach. This year (2008) sees the launch of a new chunky Syrah rosé (see below); and the Siméonis have purchased a further 5 ha of vineyard, which is gradually being converted to organics. If you're in the area, it's best to make an appointment as their time is divided between Prades-sur-Vernazobre (home/office), the cellar in Cazouls-lès-Béziers and vineyard plots found here and there between the two.

I tasted these 2007 samples from the vats in Cazouls on a sunny but chilly (especially in that cellar, not surprisingly) late November day, 2007:
2007 Rosé de Syrah, St-Chinian (14%) - delicious fruit on a crisp and zingy yet weighty palate, very drinkable and stylish foodie rosé. 87
2007 Aramon - attractive juicy boiled sweet aromas lead on to tangy redcurrant and strawberry flavours, fresh and gluggable.
2007 Cinsault - delicious black cherry, rounded tasty and fresh.
2007 Grenache – gorgeous fruit and ripe rounded mouth-feel, fair grip too with the 15%+ alcohol not so obvious (this will be blended anyway). Very promising.
2007 Syrah + 10% Carignan – spicy and vibrant showing very ripe dark cherry fruit. Good stuff.
2007 La Toure (1 ha/2.5 acres of 1898 Carignan) – incredible colour with superb spicy blackberry and perfumed violets, concentrated and powerful with fresh elegant length. Wow, should be stunning after it settles down a little.
2007 the remaining Carignan – crisper and more closed up but again shows nice fruit and style.
2007 Mourvèdre – black olive with lively almost citrus tones, austere tannins yet it's very fruity with chunky concentrated finish. Another future star probably.
2001 Domaine Siméoni rouge (their first vintage blend aged in American oak) – maturing savoury edges with leather and dried cherry fruit, quite sumptuous and savoury on the finish. 89

Route de Berlou, 34360 Prades-sur-Vernazobre. Tel/fax: 04 67 93 78 92, mobile: 06 99 40 66 62, simeoni5@aol.com, www.domainesimeoni.com

Languedoc: Saint-Chinian Berlou and Roquebrun

Berlou and Roquebrun are the two newish (2005) subzones in Saint-Chinian country created around these two villages found on the appellation’s northern edges, with the Orb river more or less forming a partition between them. Can’t really make a judgement based on tasting four wines; and three of them are from each area’s co-op winery, which is no bad thing, of course, if this lets their growers/winemakers focus on making a couple of special wines, although I’d like to get a better idea of how many small estates are really getting behind these two mini-appellations? I’ve used my ‘new’ scoring system of one, two or three ‘ticks’ (good, very good, fabulous); or just plain 1 to 3 here. Euro prices are cellar door per bottle inc. taxes and were added after the event (21-25 March 2011 in the region).

Les Coteaux de Berlou Château des Albières 2008 (35% old-vine Carignan, 25% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre) - intense sweet-perfumed and spicy, vibrant tangy vs richer liquorice fruit with meaty yet minty edges; peppery pure fruit finish, textured tannins and quite elegant. 2 €9.10

Cave de Roquebrun "Baron d'Aupenac" 2008 (80% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache) – again shows enticing herbal cassis vs liquorice and black cherry, touch of oak layered on grippy tannins; pity as it’s a bit over-extracted after that nice start. 1 €21.65!

Domaine Carrière Audier "St-Martin de Vieussan" 2008 (Mourvèdre/Syrah) – a touch oxidised and turning very savoury already, chunky tannins vs some nice fruit but that baked character rides through it. Could just be a dud bottle? €7.90

Cave de Roquebrun "Terrasses de Maynard" 2009 (60% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache) - quite oaky vs lively spicy dark fruit, minty edges vs touch of choc/vanilla adding texture to its big yet rounded tannins, closes up on the finish. A tad clunky perhaps but has good substance etc. 1-2

And from the previous edition of the “Millésimes en Languedoc” tasting sessions in 2010, there were two rather good 2009 vintage reds from two estates not present this time:

Domaine Pin des Marguerites "Pétale Pourpre" 2009 Saint-Chinian-Berlou (Carignan, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah) - peppery garrigue tones with "sweet" blackberry and olive; minty floral blueberry mouthful with "chalky" tannins, fresh bite and quite elegant finish. €11 90
Domaine La Grange Leon "Audacieux" 2009 Berlou (Syrah, Carignan, Grenache, Mourvèdre) - "Black Forest gateau" nose with violet and liquorice notes; concentrated lively mouthfeel with appealing bite, tannins and lingering menthol flavours. €8 90+

Looking back through all six wines, interesting to note perhaps that my favs are from Berlou? Discuss in less than ten words below...

Languedoc 2009 vintage report

Languedoc 2009 vintage tasting report

"Following hot in the footsteps of their inaugural 2008 vintage showcase last year (see report  on the 2008s following this one), the Languedoc wine people held a marathon week of "en primeur" tastings of the 2009 vintage in March 2010. With all the frenzied talk in Bordeaux of yet another vintage of the century (I didn't/don't go to these tastings there, by the way, however much I do like the fair city of Bordeaux and some of the region's wines), it was enlightening to try a solid cross-section of samples from pretty much all areas of the Languedoc in all three colours. Even if they were very much work-in-progress examples taken from vat or barrel in the case of most of the reds, for example... And talking of prices, is the Languedoc getting just too trendy given how expensive some of these wines are?"

Read on for my full-monty commentary... You'll also find notes and reviews below of my 100 favourite 2009 Languedoc rosés, whites and reds from these wine areas: La Clape, Picpoul de Pinet, Limoux, Malepère, Minervois La Livinière, Corbières & Boutenac, Faugères, Saint-Chinian & Berlou, Terrasses du Larzac, Montpeyroux, St-Georges d'Orques, Saint-Drézéry (who what where?)... And here's the "top-30" producers at a glance: Hospitalet, Mire Etang, Félines Jourdan, Lauriers, Rives Blanques, Antugnac, Astruc, Belvèze, Sainte Eulalie, Laville-Bertrou, Aussières, Lastours, Trillol, Sainte Croix, Saint-Esteve, Fontsainte, Liquière, Estanilles, Grange Ain, Bagatelle, Pin Marguerites, Borie Vitarèle, Grange Leon, Cazal Viel, Jullien Olivier, Brousses, Thérons, Villa Dondona, Puech-Haut, Guizard...

A similar historical theme was adopted for the setting for the tastings this year: Fontfroide and Valmagne abbeys, although this time with a radically different backdrop: tons of snow! Monday 8 March saw a freak snowstorm in the south (the weather was warm and spring-like the week before and afterwards), which weirdly made Fontfroide in the Corbières almost inaccessible (pic. above) whereas not one snowflake fell at Valmagne, near Pézenas in the Hérault to the east (although it did snow in Montpellier)!

To kick off gently, I ploughed my way through a handful of attractive rosés although, like anywhere else, a few dreary ones too. Moving on to that rugged peninsular mini-appellation La Clape: probably better known for its red wines yet there were several delicious whites on show actually, which are definitely worth seeking out. And, as ever, a few high-standard and very attractive dry whites from this writer's favourite Picpoul de Pinet. Elsewhere on the white front, expect plenty of quite fine wines from Limoux, more full-bodied than 08 although less tautly structured perhaps. As for reds from the latter, some nice ones although nothing too exciting - at the moment, AOC rules are based on Merlot, Cabs etc. but not Pinot Noir, which is surely the most promising red variety? Same could be said about that "neither-one-thing-nor-the-other" appellation next door, Malepère: disappointing (apologies to that small handful of actually quite good estates here, but little evidence of it from the samples I tasted!)
How do you be tactful, and not misunderstood at the same time, about Minervois La Livinière: that darling of the so-called "cru" appellations with fancy prices to match? Somewhat predictably consistent quality across the board with high scores - hardly a criticism as such - and difficult not to be seduced by most of these wines. Although I just can't help thinking that making good Syrah here, which dominates the area's plantings and their AOC agenda, is just too easy (you can't blame them!) and arguably results in a certain style uniformity ("discuss with examples in under 100 words...")
Whereas, I was struggling to limit the number of Corbières reds I've included, as there were plenty of enticing wines; hence there are more featured below than the others (though I did taste more of them as well, to be honest) at more reasonable prices. Although likewise, some of the Corbières-Boutenac producers (a relatively new sub-zone) are in cloud-cuckoo land on the pricing front (see below too)! And looking superficially at "scores", while there are a few charming wines, they aren't noticeably "superior" to my top wines from elsewhere in the Corbières. By the way, one evening we ate at Le Marie-Jean restaurant in Sète (that link goes to another post/review on this blog), where we took part in a for-fun Boutenac vs La Livinière taste-off: we didn't all try all of the wines and were in groups of three working by quick process of elimination. And the "winner" (drum roll)... Boutenac. See "other wines tasted" below for my favourite, a 2007 Boutenac... 
My hopes were high for Faugères, and there were several reds that came up to expectations - I'm increasingly tempted to say it's one of the most exciting Languedoc appellations from what I've tasted and where I've visited. But there were quite a few charmless samples at the tasting as well: early days, I know, and they might well yet metamorphose into handsome swans... As for neighbouring, and much bigger Saint-Chinian, I also stuck to reds (although you certainly shouldn't overlook some of the exciting whites emerging from both AOCs), including a couple from another new subzone called Berlou (centred on that village), and finishing with a handful of refreshing rosés. St-Chinian is perhaps more of a minefield in terms of number of producers (mind you, you could say that about Minervois or Corbieres...), but undeniably worth persevering with and getting to know the best ones; especially this vintage.
This time, I decided to ignore certain zones on all sides of Montpellier that I tasted last year, e.g. Sommières, Pic-St-Loup, Grès de Montpellier and Pézénas (links go to winery profiles in those areas), in favour of unearthing a few gems from the Terrasses du Larzac, Montpeyroux, St-Georges d'Orques and Saint-Drézéry (who what where, you might well ask...)
The 2009 T du L reds confirm this arguably better thought-out "terroir" - although probably still too sweeping with swathes of vineyards not exactly on those famous terraces - has serious potential with some serious wines (several harder to taste than those Faugères even at this stage) and correspondingly serious prices! e.g. "natural wine" idol Jullien Olivier. The unassuming village of Montpeyroux is obviously keeping a bit hush-hush about its handful of quite exciting wineries (as you'll see from my notes below) where, along with Larzac and St-Chinian, Mourvèdre is performing a celebratory role in many of their red blends. Saint-Drézéry was a complete mystery to me: yet another fledgling "cru" lying roughly between Pic-St-Loup and Sommières heading east, which seems to be an exclusive sub-appellation for chi-chi estate Château Puech-Haut, given the four wines on tasting were theirs (impressive but pricey). And St-Georges, on the west side of Montpellier close to the city limits, appears to have a couple of stars in the making...
To cut a long story short, I've featured my selection of 100 favourite 2009 Languedoc rosés, whites and reds below: maximum 10 wines per appellation or style to keep it focused (except Corbières & St-Chinian for reasons stated above). They were tasted "blind," although with reference to tech sheets as some kind of useful quick guide (so not very blind in fact), as there were just too many bottles lined up to get through the whole lot. Thus, many wines were simply overlooked as I opted to taste somewhat at random (even numbers one side, odd the other; this appellation rather than that one, etc...). Or, with inevitably lots of unfinished samples on the table, some weren't showing at their best so swiftly moved on. 
By the way, an "O" (following grape varieties in brackets) = organic/biodynamic producer, and the €€€ quoted are cellar door prices. Talking of which, is the Languedoc getting just too trendy given how expensive some of these wines are? Especially certain producers in certain areas - the nearer Montpellier (where most of the region's money is), the dearer perhaps! I'm certainly not someone to knock success, but there was a time when we used to talk about great value in the Languedoc...

Languedoc rosé

Château de Valflaunès "par Hasard" (Syrah/Grenache) - juicy tight style, lively palate with elegant fruit then crisp steely finish. €6 85+
Domaine de Daurion "Poète" (Syrah/Grenache) - attractive crunchy vs creamy red fruits, juicy and crisp mouthfeel; quite structured actually for a rosé. €4.65 85+
Château Mire L'Etang "cuvée Corail" La Clape (Syrah/Grenache/Cinsault) - perfumed red fruity nose and palate; juicy and crisp with "estery" aromatics, lightly creamy finish. €6.40 85
Domaine de Villeneuve "Les Verriers" Pic St-Loup (Syrah/Grenache) - nice juicy vs oily style, subtle red fruits plus a bit of weight vs crisp finish. €6 85

Languedoc whiteChâteau l'Hospitalet La Clape (Bourboulenc, Vermentino, Grenache blanc) - sherbet and coconut notes, oily and honeyed vs green fruit edges; nice weight vs juicy leesy bite, good balance and intense finish. €10 88+
Château Mire L'Etang "Aimée de Coigny" La Clape (Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Grenache blanc) - lively aromatic and crisp vs leesy and gummy mouthfeel; again shows attractive rounder palate with floral tones and very crisp finish. 87+
Domaine Ferri-Arnaud "Fleurs Blanches" La Clape (Bourboulenc, Grenache blanc) - lovely floral citrus aromas/flavours; zesty and mineral mouthfeel vs fatter "sweeter" finish. Good value @ €5.80 87
Château Capitoul "Rocaille" La Clape (Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier) - aromatic and zesty vs oily hazelnut notes; has fair oomph lending rounder framework vs fresh bite. €8.60 85+
Allegria "Tribu d'A" Pézenas (Roussanne, Marsanne O) - quite rich and honeyed with coconut and cream edges, subtle oak spices; zesty citrus and crisp bite vs power and more exotic honeysuckle flavours. €10 87+

Picpoul de Pinet (all 100% Picpoul or Piquepoul) 
Mas Saint Laurent - gummy and oily with juicy "sweet" melon fruit; quite fresh acidity with mineral vs rounded finish. €6 85+
Cave Costières de Pomerols "Beauvignac" - tight and zingy style; gummy mineral palate vs citrus and melon fruit, intense crisp finish. €4.10 87
Domaine Félines Jourdan - wow: more concentrated vs zippy chalky mineral texture; crisp bite with juicy lees and delicate fruit. €5.50 89
Cave L'Ormarine "Duc de Morny" - attractive style with oily vs crisp palate, intense citrus fruit and lively chalky finish. €4.70 87+
Vinipolis (Cave de Florensac) "Bessac" - steely vs leesy style, lively tight and long finish. €4 87
Vignobles Montagnac "les Terres Rouges" - softer juicy mouthfeel with chalky edges; gets more interesting with lees notes and steely finish. €4.45 85+
Domaine des Lauriers - plumper ripe melon vs citrus fruit, zesty mineral chalky palate vs a touch of richness then crisp bite; classy. 89+

Limoux white (all Chardonnay unless stated) 
Domaine Astruc JC Mas - aromatic pear fruit with toasty spicy edges; quite lush mouthfeel vs a touch of crisp acidity. 87
Domaine Jean Louis Denois "Ste Marie" - nice juicy pear and lees notes vs crisp bite and lively length. 87+
2008 Domaine de Mayrac "Millésime" (no 2009) - hazelnut aromas/flavours, attractive depth and oily vs steely texture. 90+
Gérard Bertrand "Aigle Royal" - pears and yeast lees on the nose, good intensity finishing with creamy vs quite crisp and salty profile. 87+
"Domaine de l'Aigle" - similar to above with better balance of juicy leesy and steely vs power and a touch more oak, although nicely done. 89+
More GB here.
Aimery Sieur d'Arques "Terroir Haute Vallée" - richer and finer than their "Med" cuvée with pear fruit and leesy vs mineral edges. 87
Château de Gaure "Oppidum" - oily and nutty, towards lush mouthfeel with lees and mineral tones; quite developed actually (another 2008 perhaps?). 90+
Château Antugnac "Gravas" - showing fair depth with juicy finish vs very crisp and long, quite classy. 89+
Château Rives Blanques "Dédicace" (Chenin Blanc) - quite tight and unrevealing, steely mineral and promising though. 87+
Château Rives Blanques "Odyssée" - richer and a tad toastier, nice buttery vs crisp palate, a bit of oomph too vs fine intense mineral finish. 89+
More Rives Blanques here. Much more Limoux here.

Limoux red 
Domaine Astruc - quite chocolate oaky with underlying lively blackberry fruit, attractive tannins too; could be good. 87+
Domaine Jean Louis Denois "Grande Cuvée Merlot" - fairly meaty and grippy vs reasonable depth of lush damson fruit; the tannins are a bit heavily done, otherwise it's good. 87
Château Antugnac "aux bons hommes" - aromatic soy sauce and plum notes; chunky palate with quite rounded tannins vs "sweet/savoury" profile. 85+

Malepère red
Château Belvèze "élevé en fut" (Merlot/Cabernet Franc) - more depth/extracted than their regular wine, with touches of chocolate oak vs richer rounder palate. €6.80 85+
Château Guilhem "Tradition" (Merlot/Cabernet Franc) - pity it was undergoing its malo-lactic fermentation (a bit smelly), as it shows good depth of fruit vs firm yet layered tannins. Will have to try the finished wine.
2008 Domaine Girard "cuvée Neri" (Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Malbec) - as I found their 09 a bit lean. Bright red peppery style with plummy undertones vs lively grip and fresher side. €10 85+
Domaine de la Sapiniere - leafy red pepper notes vs lusher plum fruit; fair grip although quite well balanced with "sweeter" finish. 85

Minervois La Livinière
Clos Centeilles (1/3 each Syrah/Grenache/Mourvèdre) - dark fruity aromas/flavours with meaty and peppery edges; tight palate and subtle length. €15 87+
Ostal Cazes "Grand Vin" (mostly Syrah + Grenache/Carignan) - better than previous vintages (I've never been very impressed by their over-hyped wine) showing spicy black cherry fruit, nice tannins and good balance. Far too expensive though at €20. 87
Château Laville Bertrou (2/3 Syrah + Grenache/Carignan) - attractive and lively, juicy Syrah style; dark and meaty with "chalky" tannins adding nice grip vs good depth of violet and cherry flavours to finish. €9.40 89
Laville Bertrou "Le Viala" (60% Syrah + Grenache/Carignan) - a single-site cuvée from the above: tighter and firmer wine vs lusher and more concentrated, solid yet rounded mouthfeel with dark cherry and mint notes; yum. €35! 92+
Clos des Roques (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvèdre/Carignan) - tight, firm and extracted although concentrated for sure; lively black cherry and liquorice underneath, those tannins get finer on its tasty finish. €9 90?
More seductive now than their completely different, and a bit awkward to taste, "Mal Pas" cuvée (80% Carignan), which is definitely worth mentioning.
Domaine Combe Blanche "La Chandelière" (3/4 Syrah/Grenache) - also more seductive (that's Syrah for you, too easy!) and spicy on the nose; chunky palate with dark fruit and violet tones, powerful spicy and firm vs lush and rounded finish. Ambitious pricing again @ €19.50. 90
Château Sainte Eulalie "La Cantilene" (1/2 Syrah + Grenache/Carignan) - very attractive, rich vs chunky style with spicy minty undertones; solid structured mouthfeel but well balanced with liquorice and mint on the finish. €11.35 90+
Domaine des Aires Hautes "Clos de l'Escandil (Syrah/Mourvèdre/Grenache) - lush black cherry and chocolate aromas/flavours; firm yet smooth tannins, nice chunky spicy style with restrained power. €16.80 89
Domaine Coudoulet (mostly Syrah + Grenache/Mourvèdre/Carignan) - plump juicy Syrah style with minty overtones; quite grippy and intense with fair depth of fruit. 88
Domaine Aucley "Les Vignes Oubliées" (Syrah) - floral peppery cherry fruit vs commanding grip and fairly elegant finish. €14 88
Scroll through the Languedoc winery A to Z for more Minervois La Livinière producer profiles.

Corbières red 
Clos de l’Anhel "les Terrassettes" (2/3 Carignan + Syrah/Grenache/Mourvèdre O) - intense fruit with a touch of sweet "vanilla" too (not oak though as this wine doesn't see any!); nice thick ripe texture vs oomph and bite, a bit awkward at the moment although concentrated with underlining blueberry/blackcurrant and liquorice. €8.90 89+
Château Prieuré Borde-Rouge "Ange" (60% Syrah + Grenache/Carignan) - delicious lush vs spicy and juicy black cherry and liquorice with smoky edges; firm and powerful with good depth and purity, long and intense. Yum. €15 90
Their "Carminal" cuvée is also recommended (€7.80).
Domaine Ledogar "la Compagnon" (Carignan/Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre O) - lively Carignan-led style, grippy vs "sweet/savoury" palate with spicy blueberry fruit and tight long finish. €9 89+
Château Pech-Latt "Vieilles Vignes" (Syrah/Mourvèdre/Grenache/Carignan O) - lovely depth of black cherry and cassis with tobacco tones; firm and intense with fair oomph, quite a mouthful. Promising. €9 90
Château de Lastours "Réserve" (Carignan/Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre) - quite tight and firm with brooding dark fruit backdrop; good concentration vs balance, should be excellent (I'd hope so too at €18) 90+
Château de Lastours "Simone Descamps" (Carignan/Grenache/Syrah) - similarly taut and quite fine too showing nice tobacco edges vs blue/black fruits; solid and powerful vs lively and long. €9.40 90
Domaine Sainte Croix "Magnéric" (Grenache/Syrah/Carignan O) - spicy minty and intense showing lovely concentration; dry firm texture vs underlying lush dark fruit, should be good. €12 90
Domaine du Trillol "Château Trillol" (50-50 Grenache/Syrah) - a bit closed at first, slowly revealing perfumed violet and cherry vs richer liquorice and tobacco tones; attractive depth of fruit vs grip, well handled. €7 90
Château Beauregard Mirouze "Lauzina" (70 Syrah/30 Grenache) - very Syrah in style with spicy, floral, dark cherry notes; fair concentration with firm tannins vs enticing perfumed minty fruit. €10 89
Domaine du Grand Arc "Quarante" (Carignan/Grenache/Syrah) - spicy and "sweet/savoury" fruit vs tight and solid palate; closes up, promising. €7.60 89
Also worthwhile: Grand Arc's "en sol majeur" (€10.80). Tasting notes on their whole range here (visit July 2010).
Aussières "Château d'Aussières" (Syrah/Mourvèdre/Grenache/Carignan) - similar profile to their lively "Blason" cuvée (€10 89), although the extra Syrah here comes through nicely adding peppery floral notes; lovely depth with fine balance between grip and power. €18 92+

Others worth mentioning (quality or value or both): Château Auris, Domaine Bouysse "Roc Long", Domaine Longue Roche "Aurelieu", Domaine 2 Anes, Rouire-Ségur "Air du Temps", Grain de Fanny "Rouge Palabrer", Prieuré Sainte Marie Albas "Roches Grises", Château Sérame "Réserve", Vignoble Vialade "Régalade", Domaine Py "Antoine", Domaines Auriol "Château Cicéron", Abbaye Fontfroide "oculus", Château Vieux Moulin "vox dei".

Corbières-Boutenac 
Domaine de Villemajou (Carignan/Grenache/Syrah) - gorgeous nose and flavours, wild and minty with "sweet/sour" fruit; intense rich and smoky vs tight and long finish. €10.50 88-90   White Villemajou tasted below.
Château Hauterive le Haut "Averal" (50-50 Carignan/Grenache) - perfumed herby aromas, leading on to tobacco tones and blue/black fruits; crunchy vs ripe palate with lively length. €13.50 88+   More Hauterive wines below.
Château Saint-Esteve "Ganymede" (Carignan/Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre) - vibrant floral and spicy with liquorice and tobacco edges; quite fine and long, very firm and fresh with lush vs crunchy mouthfeel. €13 90
Pasquier-Meunier "Exégèse" (Syrah/Carignan/Grenache) - smoky bacon oak with ripe fruit and wild herb undertones; dry vs rounded tannins with minty finish. Good but far too expensive at €32! 87+   More Meunier wines below.
Château Aigues Vives (Syrah/Carignan/Mourvèdre) - more elegant, subtle and closed up although has enticing "sweet/savoury" panache. €7 87
Château Aiguilloux "Anne-Georges" (Carignan/Grenache/Syrah) - peppery and intense, crunchy vs ripe blueberry fruit with "chalky" tannins; firm and refreshing finish. €15 89
Domaine Fontsainte "Clos Centurion" (Carignan/Syrah/Mourvèdre) - dark berry notes, fresh and floral too; concentrated and quite fine, tense tannin/acid combo with attractive fruit lurking underneath. €12.50 88-90
Château Ollieux Romanis "Atal Sia" (Carignan/Grenache/Mourvèdre/Syrah) - lively grippy and quite concentrated, very intense tight fine finish; promising although leaner than say the 07? €17 89+   More Ollieux Romanis below.
Also promising but the sample wasn't showing well: Clos Pacalis "Agape".

Faugères red
Domaine de Cébène "les Bancèls" (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre O) - lively fruit on the nose; more austere palate with power and bite, although again attractive tannins. €13 87
La Grange d'Ain "le Penchant du Cérisier" (mostly Carignan/Grenache O) - perfumed and spicy, blue/black fruits; "sweet" liquorice flavours vs "chalky" tannins and spicy minty finish; good balance of grip, weight and fruit. €14 89+Equally good from Grange d'Ain: "Le Cèdre" (€12 88+).
Domaine St-Martin d'Agel (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvèdre) - subtle perhaps as it's quite austere, although has aromatic spicy fruit underneath and not overly dry tannins (like some). We'll see. €6.50 87
Château des Estanilles "Clos du Fou" (Syrah) - similar to their seductive vibrant "grande cuvée" (€16.50 87+) but riper and richer; violet notes too vs tight and firm palate, well-balanced finish. €24 90
L'Ancienne Mercerie "Couture" (Carignan/Grenache/Syrah O) - tight and crunchy mouthfeel vs floral liquorice flavours; again not very revealing but could be good. €14.50 87
Domaine Bénézech-Boudal "Marie-Laurence" (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvèdre) - pretty austere, firm and chunky vs nice "sweet" fruit; refreshing bite and good weight, closes up on the finish. €12.50 87-89?
Château de la Liquière "Cistus" (70 Syrah/Grenache/Mourvèdre) - lovely pure peppery minty nose with black cherry and liquorice; big grip and power on the palate vs ripe fruit, nice lingering menthol notes. €14 90+
Also recommended by La Liquière: "Vieilles Vignes" (and better value too at €8.50 88+).
Domaine du Météore "les Leonides" (Syrah/Mourvèdre/Grenache/Carignan) - quite attractive for the price: spicy with ripe cherry touches then firm/dry tannins although not too. €5.70 85+
Les Amants de la Vigneronne "de chair et de sang" = "from flesh and blood"! (60 Mourvèdre + Syrah) - difficult to say as it wasn't tasting brilliantly but potential is there I think: the vanilla choc oak was rather swamping it, although showed nice balance of concentration vs power. One to come back too. €12.50 ?

Saint-Chinian red 
Domaine Pin des Marguerites "Pétale Pourpre" Saint-Chinian-Berlou (Carignan, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah) - peppery 'garrigue' tones with "sweet" blackberry and olive; minty floral blueberry mouthful with "chalky" tannins, fresh bite and quite elegant finish. €11 90
Borie La Vitarèle "Les Cres" (Syrah/Mourvèdre O) - closed up and a bit awkward, although meaty with chunky tannins vs ripe dark fruit and black olive; austere finish but promising. €17.40 87-90. Similarly reserved yet promising: Les Terres Blanches (€8.30).
Clos Bagatelle "Terre de mon Père" (Syrah/Mourvèdre/Grenache) - similar profile to their floral, sweet cherry and cassis laden "Mathieu et Marie" (better value too at €6.20 and 88+) but chunkier and grippier; still has that delicious intense minty thing vs rich and long dry finish. €20 90+
Domaine Bastide Rousse "Tradition" (50-50 Grenache, Syrah) - minty with lively black cherry vs liquorice (classic Syrah vs Grenache blend I'd say); pretty solid mouthfeel and big structure with oomph vs attractive spicy menthol finish. Finally good value @ €6! 89
Château Bousquette "Pruneyrac" (70 Mourvèdre/Grenache O) - nice dark vs lightly savoury fruit with peppery undertones; firm yet quite rounded palate and touch of elegance too. €7.80 88+
Domaine de Pech Ménel "Château Vallouvières" (80 Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan) - similar in spicy savoury style to their "Pech Ménel" wine (89) with black cherry/olive; gripping structure vs lively "sweet/savoury" fruit and long mineral finish. 88-90
Château Milhau-Lacugue "les Curées" (Grenache) - lush jammy liquorice style, very ripe and spicy; firm framework vs lingering "sweet" fruit and punch. €23 89
Domaine La Grange Leon "Audacieux" Berlou (Syrah, Carignan, Grenache, Mourvèdre) - "Black Forest gateau" nose with violet and liquorice notes; concentrated lively mouthfeel with appealing bite, tannins and lingering menthol flavours. €8 90+
Château Coujan "Gabrielle de Spinola" (70 Syrah/Mourvèdre) - spicy floral ripe cherry tones; quite concentrated and solid vs good length with "sweet" vs spicy vs savoury flavours. €6.70 88+. Also worthwhile: "Picoque" (€5.30).
Mas Champart "Clos Simonette" (70 Mourvèdre/Grenache) - closed on the nose with very tight, firm palate; however, this was powerful and very intense with aromatic liquorice fruit on the finish. One to come back to. €18 88+
Others worth mentioning (quality or value or both): Château La Dournie, Château Jougrand, Domaine La Madura "Grand Vin", Domaine Les Eminades "Pieue Plantée", Domaine de Montplo "Louise", Domaine Sacré Coeur.

Saint-Chinian rosé
Château St-Martin des Champs "Caucitte" (50-50 Grenache, Syrah) - nice juicy mouthful, oily texture vs elegant and crisp. Expensive at €7.50. 85+
Domaine Maurine Rouge "Rachel" (Mourvèdre) - leesy and juicy with red fruit cocktail, quite chunky vs oily vs crisp. €5.30 85+
Domaine Pla "Petit Bonheur" (Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah) - a touch yeasty on the nose still, but has attractive crisp zesty style and gummy mouth-watering finish. €5 85+
Cazal Viel "vieilles vignes rosé" (Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah) - fair substance to it vs gummy and zesty mouthfeel; creamier red fruit finish vs crisp and fresh. €7.60 87

Terrasses du Larzac 
Plan de l'Homme "Habilis" (Grenache/Syrah/Carignan) - attractive juicy fruit with rich liquorice; dry texture vs dark chocolate and cherry, powerful then closes up; could be good. €14 87+
Château de Jonquières "La Baronnie" (Syrah/Mourvèdre/Grenache) - more seductive now than their "Domaine" cuvée (worth watching too: €10), because of the oak perhaps although it's subtle; enticing vibrant cherry and liquorice fruit with solid vs rounded finish. €15 87+
Domaine du Causse d'Arboras "les Cazes" (Grenache/Syrah/Cinsault/Mourvèdre) - alluring ripe vs herby fruit, moving on to a savoury vs liquorice palate with well-handled tannins. €9 87+
Mas des Brousses (60 Syrah/Mourvèdre) - pure Syrah aromas with violets and black cherries; meatier dark olive side on the palate with attractive tannins and lovely length. €12.80 90+
Mas Jullien (1/3 each Syrah, Carignan, Mourvèdre) - meaty, extracted and firm although lots going on here; chunky fruit with "sweet/savoury" finish, powerful and tight. €25 87-90
Domaine la Croix Chaptal "Charles" (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan) - "sweet" vs smoky nose; "chalky" vs liquorice and crunchy vs ripe profile, power and bite; a bit odd but kinda like it. €12 87+
Also promising although difficult to assess: Mas Chimères "Sans", Mas Pountil "le Mas", Vignoble 2 Terres "Jacques Arnal", Clos du Serres "maros", Bastide aux Oliviers/Familongue "Esprit", Mas Haut Buis.

Montpeyroux 
Domaine d'Aupilhac "la Boda" (50-50 Syrah/Mourvèdre O) - powerful chocolate vanilla oak at this stage; good depth and concentration though, more complex than their "Localieres" with nice oomph vs dark fruit. €25 87+
Domaine Alain Chabanon "Esprit de Font Caude" (50-50 Syrah/Mourvèdre O) - concentrated and spicy with nice "sweet/savoury" profile, solid mouthfeel although quite subtle too vs tighter commanding finish. €25 87+
Cave de Montpeyroux "Or Prestige" (mostly Carignan + Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah) - attractive juicy easy style with firmer and more powerful finish. Value @ €5.50 85
Domaine Les Thérons "grande réserve" (Syrah/Grenache/Mourvèdre) - juicy ripe cherry fruit vs "chalky" tannins and "sweet" perfumed finish; taut and punchy yet again well balanced. €9.50 88-90
Villa Dondona (60 Mourvèdre/Syrah) - herby spicy notes vs dark chocolate and black olive; attractive dry vs "sweet" and meaty texture, nice weight and interesting lingering flavours. 90

St-Georges d'Orques
Consorts Guizard "Prestige" (60 Syrah/Mourvèdre) - dark cherry, mint and pepper with meaty edges; fair oomph with big but nicely textured tannins, lovely "sweet/savoury" finish. €12 90-92
Château de l'Engarran "Quetton" (mostly Syrah + Grenache/Mourvèdre) - inky spicy violet notes layered with black cherry; Syrah-shaped style although has attractive rich dark fruit vs meaty undertones, firm vs lush and powerful. €20 88-90. Plus the chewier, blue-fruited and "cheaper" (€11.50) regular cuvée (87).

Saint-Drézéry 
Château Puech-Haut "Prestige" (60 Syrah + Grenache, Carignan) - pure spicy floral Syrah nose; chunkier and "sweeter" vs solid tannins, well balanced though with peppery vs grainy vs ripe finish. €15.50 89+
Château Puech-Haut "Clos du Pic" (Syrah/Mourvèdre/Grenache) - intense and meaty start; very firm mouthfeel vs a tad of sweet choco oak, pretty solid to finish too but there's delicious depth of fruit underneath, big vs intense. €34 90+

Other wines tasted

Here's a selection of favourites worth seeking out, tried over dinner (9+10th March 2010) with their winemakers (mostly Corbières and Minervois):
This one was my "winner" of the Boutenac vs La Liviniere taste-off: 2007 Sainte-Lucie d'Aussou "Ladybird" Corbières-Boutenac, Jean-Paul Serres - seductive yet delicate nose with berry fruit and smoky savoury edges; silky ripe mouth-feel with subtle tannins, quite concentrated and freshly structured with elegant maturing "sweet/savoury" finish.
2009 Château Hauterive le Haut Corbières rosé (Cinsault/Syrah/Grenache) - raspberry fruity and quite chunky style with juicy and crisp finish.
2007 Hauterive le Haut Corbières-Boutenac (old Carignan/Grenache) - very nice smoky savoury touches vs vibrant cherry and berry fruit, a tad of oak adding rounded texture vs quite concentrated palate. Profile on Hauterive here.
2008 Ollieux Romanis "cuvée prestige" white Corbières (Grenache blanc Marsanne Roussanne) - quite toasty and grainy, perhaps too much although it did open up with food getting fatter and tastier vs still quite tight and mineral.
2007 Ollieux Romanis "Atal Sia" Corbières-Boutenac (mostly Carignan + Grenache Mourvèdre Syrah) - delicious nose showing perfumed blue/black fruits; nice "chalky" tannins with rich yet crunchy mouth-feel, herby minty vs savoury flavours on the finish. Ollieux profile with older vintages here.
2009 Château Meunier St-Louis "Prestige" Corbières rosé (Syrah, Grenache, Carignan) - elegant and very crisp, attractive and versatile style.
2009 Meunier St-Louis "Prestige" Corbières white (Grenache blanc, Bourboulenc, Marsanne, Rolle = Vermentino) - aromatic banana/pineapple notes with gummy lees-tinged intensity; nice rounded mouth-feel vs light bitter twist, "sweet" fruit vs mineral bite.
2005 Meunier St-Louis "Exégèse" Corbières-Boutenac (Syrah, Grenache, Carignan) - quite oaky, sturdy and extracted with lush spicy fruit vs grainy wood; not sure at first, in the end the fruit comes out more although it's still pretty chunky, firm and tight for an 05. Profile on Pasquier-Meunier here.
2009 Domaine Coudoulet Viognier - very citrus in style with enticingly crisp palate, not very Viognier (as in not very "exotic" fruit) but a good dry white.
2008 Blanc de Villemajou - very tight and steely actually with light toasted butter undertones, dry and crisp finish needing 6-12 months to develop. Lots more GB wines and info here.
2006 Château Faiteau Minervois La Livinière - quite coconut spicy at the moment but has nice dark fruit and liquorice flavours; punchy palate with pretty grippy tannins although attractive grainy/rounded texture, tight spicy finish. Needs 6 months to open up a bit, promising. Profile & older vintages of Faiteau.
2007 Château Cesseras Minervois La Livinière - attractive rich & smoky cherry fruit with minty edges; pretty firm tannins still vs lush chocolate textured palate, good balance of grip and fruit in the end.
2008 Domaine Barroubio Muscat de St-Jean-de-Minervois - textbook style with lively aromatic Muscat fruit; not so sweet in the mouth thanks to its refreshing bite, nice with a light dessert such as raspberry mousse.
2001 Château Bonhomme "Les Alaterres" red Minervois - lovely smoky meaty and "cheesy" notes with red pepper edges; rich powerful and firmly structured still vs classy savoury maturing fruit.
2007 Château Tourril cuvée Philippe red Minervois - smoky and ripe with dark spicy fruit and herby peppery undertones; rounded and fruity with attractive tannins.
2007 Cuvée Tourril red Minervois - a touch of chocolate oak vs appealing depth of ripe cherry and liquorice fruit; smoky and chunky mouth-feel with solid closed up finish; could be good, needs a year or so.
The four wines above were enjoyed at La Distillerie restaurant in the Aude region, appropriately found on the edge of Minervois country (link goes to another post on my blog with details).

Text all rights Richard Mark James, published June 2010. Photos by Clair de Lune.

Montpellier: Vinisud 2006

Comments and hot tips below from the trade showcase for Mediterranean wines, which took Montpellier by storm, in the most constructive sense of the expression. Unfortunate use of words perhaps, in light of recent isolated desperate acts (opens a story on Decanter.com). It's an event such as Vinisud and participants that successfully demonstrates the future path for wine in the South, not smashing things up (even if difficult not to sympathise with stranded growers asking for more help from a distant Paris): I'll leave further comments on this to Vitisphere.com (goes to related piece). Featured estates below: Daumas Gassac - La Sauvageonne - L’Euzière - Anger - Grézan - Champart - Paul Mas - Matassa - Força Réal - Crus pour Joie (Corbières).

Mas de Daumas Gassac

Still the legend of the south? MDG was one of the first to make top quality Vins de Pays in the Languedoc from a mix of Mediterranean, Rhône and Bordeaux varieties. There are now more growers reaching a similar standard; but their wines remain classy and elegant including a back catalogue of older reds, which few others can match and shows how well they age. As for the high prices they command, well that's a different argument and MDG aren't lacking in customers!
2004 Eraus blanc (mostly Sauvignon Blanc) - quite concentrated with mineral intensity, not very Sauv Blanc but shows nice length and bite. 85
2005 MDG blanc - lively zesty fruit with oily depth v aromatic peachy notes, zingy and long. 89
2004 Guilhem rouge (Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache & Carignan) - nice soft youthful black cherry and liquorice fruit with a bit of dry bite to finish. 85
2003 Elise rouge (Syrah & Merlot) - attractive smoky tobacco and dried fruit aromas & flavours, soft mouthfeel v grip of tannin, elegant yet powerful finish. 87-89
2004 MDG rouge (Cabernet Sauvignon + 15 varieties, barrel sample) - tight elegant blackcurrant and cherry fruit, nice tannin texture v fruit concentration on its subtle length. 90+
2003 MDG rouge - more open and rustic, ripe liquorice fruit with wild herb notes; richer than the 04 with attractive tannins, softer texture v weight on the finish. 92
2001 Cuvée Emile Peynaud (Cabernet Sauvignon from selected parcels) - quite oaky nose yet shows developed fruit underneath, grippy powerful palate, the oak's still a little strong but it's also concentrated and richly textured. 90+
Tasted at the estate 13/3/05:
2005 MDG blanc - tight and crisp yet lively and intense: this offers perfumed apricot and peach fruit on a zingy palate, underpinned by a touch of yeast lees and very light toast adding complexity, length and richness. 87-89
2003 MDG rouge - lovely ripe smoky cassis and black cherry fruit with notes of leather, has softness v dry grip in the mouth with light creamy oak coating; quite elegant actually for this hot vintage, complex finish. 90-92
1995 MDG rouge - had been open for a few days so a bit oxidised; however, it displayed complex herbal v figgy flavours and again that perfumed leather edge, still quite firm and lively with maturing fruit on the finish. 92-94

Updated August 2011.

La Sauvageonne
A new range of wines from this estate up in the rugged Coteaux du Languedoc hills purchased in 2001, with a resident English winemaker sourcing from vineyard parcels at different altitudes with very chunky soils.
2005 Sauvignon Blanc (+5% Muscat) - zingy green fruit set against ripe citrus, nice length and intensity. 85+

2005 Rosé - creamy red fruits v crisp long mouthfeel, nice style. 87
2004 Les Ruffes (Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault & Carignan) - lovely youthful cherry, liquorice and menthol flavours; fruity v light grip, on the simpler side but nice finish. 85-87
2003 Pica Broca (Syrah & Grenache) - ripe fruit v firm texture, again has that attractive herby black cherry character, with fairly soft tannins on the finish. 87-89
2004 Pica Broca - spicier and more elegant than the 03, with soft tannins on the subtle finish. 89
2004 Puech de Glen (mostly Syrah + Grenache) - rather closed, tight and unrevealing at the moment; however, has attractive fruit underneath and elegant length. 89+

Château L’Euzière
Brother and sister Michel and Marcelle Causse run this scenic property near Fontanès in the Pic Saint-Loup region, north of Montpellier. One to watch...
2005 Grains de Lune, Coteaux du Languedoc blanc (Roussanne, Vermentino & Grenache blanc) - nice and juicy with complex yeast lees edges, crisp bite and length. 87-89
2004 L'Almandin, Pic St-Loup (Syrah, Grenache & Mourvèdre) - intricate rustic notes mingle with black fruits, nice firm grip yet elegant and spicy; young (just bottled in fact) showing potential. 89+
2004 Les Escarboucles, Pic St-Loup (Syrah, Grenache & Mourvèdre) - closed and oaky on the nose, solid structure with nice texture, fruit and concentration; also needs time to express itself. 89-91

Domaine Anger
Laurent Anger is a leading grower in the Minervois La Livinière subzone.
2001 La Chapelle de Calamiac (100% Syrah) - intriguing flavours of lovely ripe smoky liquorice fruit and leather notes, soft long finish. 92-94
2001 Château Anger la Croix de St-Bénoit - herbier with more aromatic black cherry fruit, again elegant and ripe, smoky and long. 92-94

Château de Grézan
This extraordinary walled-castle estate (think Knights Templar meets Disney) makes a fairly large (perhaps too, given some of the variation here) range of traditional Faugères reds and charming varietal white wines.
2004 Commanderie de St-Jean Chardonnay - nice clean citrus and peach style, soft juicy palate with a little freshness on the finish. 85-87
2005 Commanderie de St-Jean Viognier - subtle yet lively apricot, herb and mineral flavours, weighty extract v quite crisp and fresh. 89+
2004 Commanderie St-Jean barrique Chardonnay - nice creamy, fairly fat fruit set against yeasty bite and intensity; well handled oak. 89
2003 Château de Laurens Faugères (this and below variations on Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre & Cinsault) - ripe spicy developing nose, nice balance of grip and fruit with good length. 87-89
2003 Château de Grézan Cuvée Arnaud Faugères - less open and seductive, mintier too; structured yet round tannins, the fruit's not coming through at the moment but this is designed for ageing. 87-89
2003 Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Faugères (Grenache & Carignan) - firmer and stockier, light oak coating wraps up a concentrated grippy palate; needs a couple of years at least. 88-90
2001 Les Schistes Dorés (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) - richer and more concentrated, mint and chocolate underneath black cherry fruit, very firm and powerful yet shows sweetness and roundness too. 89-91

Mas Champart

Isabelle and Matthieu Champart's lovely reds have long been among my favourite St-Chinian wines, especially their Mourvèdre heavy Clos Simonette.
2004 St-Chinian blanc (Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache blanc & Bourboulenc) - fresh and exotic fruit then turns zesty and mineral, nice clean elegant finish. 85+
2003 Côte d'Arbo St-Chinian (Syrah, Grenache & Carignan) - wild and spicy with attractive pure fruit, quite elegant with ripe soft-ish finish. 87-89
2003 Causse du Bousquet (Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache & Carignan) - more liquorice and black cherry, again shows softness v concentration, grip v elegance. 90
2003 Clos de la Simonette (70% Mourvèdre & Syrah) - firmer structure and style, again displays lovely fruit and rounded tannins. 90-92

Château de Lastours
I tasted cask samples of their promising 2004 vintage reds:

2004 Arnaud de Berre - lots of young spicy fruit, shows nice grip v softness and elegant length. 87+
2004 Simone Descamps - just a touch of wood adds choc and spice, displays intense ripe black fruits, more concentrated than the Berre with attractive soft texture, dry bite and length. 89-91
2004 Château de Lastours - a tad oakier but not much, lovely concentration set against structured mouthfeel, showing similar fruit style and elegance; will be super. 92-94

Mind you, this is what I thought of the above wine over a year later (April 2007):
2004 Château de Lastours Réserve - ripe 'sweet' fruit leads to rather dry chocolate wood. Disappointing considering this was looking really good in barrel: left it too long? €17

Les Crus pour Joie

Fetching name for this recently formed, merry band of mostly young, small estates in wild Corbières country around the town of Lagrasse. Several delicious finds here.
2005 Domaine Baillat rosé (Syrah, Cinsault & Grenache) - very youthful, tight and steely with elegant zippy fruit. 85-87
2005 Clos d'Espinous rosé - juicier style than above, quite concentrated with tight, zesty and youthful finish. 85-87
2005 Château Roquenégade blanc (Roussanne & Grenache blanc) - quite fat and juicy set against mineral and herb edges, nice length and bite. 87+
2003 Domaine la Rune 'Pertho' (mostly Grenache) - lovely ripe Grenache fruit with smoky spicy liquorice notes, then elegant dry finish. 87-89
2003 Château Prieuré Borde-Rouge - ripe and spicy with wild flowers and black & red fruits, powerful finish yet light tannins. 89-90
2003 Château de Roquenégade rouge - also has very ripe fruit, more on the leather and chocolate side, firmer structure and power too. 89
2004 Domaine Baillat rouge - up-front black cherry and liquorice aromas lead to a firm and concentrated palate, young and closed but will be good. 89+
2005 Clos de l'Anhel 'les Terrasses' - concentrated and meaty, lots of depth and style, grippy tannins v ripe fruit; very promising. 90+

2003 Château Cascadais - slightly dusty wood on the nose but this shows nice depth of fruit, more trad and structured style yet good with it. 87

Domaine Força Réal
Jean-Paul Henriquès and his son Cyril have done sterling work restoring this spectacular estate up on a hill between Millas and Estagel, with distant views of Perpignan, the Mediterranean, Corbières hills and the Pyrenees.
2004 Mas de la Garrigue - nice ripe black fruits with earthy notes, soft palate with a touch of grip too. 87
2003 Domaine Força Réal - richer fruit than above, attractive depth and stylish finish. 89-91
2003 Les Hauts de Força Réal - chocolate oak aromas lead to rich wild fruits and lovely textured finish; needs a couple of years. 92-94

Domaine Matassa

Tom Lubbe and Sam Harrop's estate in the northern Roussillon/eastern Fenouillèdes area, where they're making some distinctive whites and an elegant, pure Grenache red.
2005 Matassa blanc (Muscat & Macabeu) - lively aromatic fruit with mineral edges, clean long and zesty palate. 87
2005 Viognier-Muscat - lovely aromatic apricot and white peach fruit, zesty citrus undertones with long bite and power on the finish. 89+
2004 Grenache Gris-Macabeu (white) - toasty and funky with similarly intense and pure length. 89

Domaines Paul Mas

A few new vintages and releases from Jean-Claude Mas and his go-getting team, including some unusual blends and the cross-breed red variety Marselan from recently purchased organic vineyards near Pézenas (Languedoc).
2005 Sauvignon Blanc dA, Limoux - attractive crisp intense gooseberry and citrus fruit, fresh long finish. 85-87
2005 Viognier - lively and zesty showing lovely depth of rich apricot fruit and aromatic class. 89
2005 La Forge Chardonnay - attractive citrus and peach fruit underlined by subtle toast and cream flavours, good bite v weight on the finish. 90+
2005 La Forge Cabernet Sauvignon - tight focused cassis fruit, firm yet rounded mouthfeel; needs 6 months to come together, promising. 89-90?
Paul Mas 1892 (its name rather than vintage!) (Alicante, Carignan, Cinsault Grenache & Merlot) - stonky grippy palate, unusual meaty style, old fashioned chunky blend but good with it. 87-89
2004 Marselan - curranty juicy fruit, has fair depth and firm texture; different. 87
2004 Château Paul Mas, Coteaux du Languedoc - the oak's quite strong at the moment, but this displays beautiful concentration of blackberry and chocolate; tight, fine yet weighty finish. 92+
2003 Château Paul Mas, Coteaux du Languedoc - similar power v finesse with richer wilder more developed fruit. 92+
2003 Les Faisses, Coteaux du Languedoc - lovely drinking now (with rack of lamb) yet concentrated and structured enough to develop much further; full, gamey and 'sweet' with firm rounded tannins. 92-94

Search through the Roussillon winery A to Z (right) to find fuller profiles and updates on most of these producers and their more recent vintages etc.

Languedoc rosé

Here's another "opinion" blog post on the Languedoc written for Harpers' Wine & Spirit (goes there, published 5th May), this time focusing on rosé. After the words, you'll find over 30 worth-sipping dry rosés I tasted recently on a concentrated trip to the region...
"You wouldn't be surprised to hear that most (over three-quarters) of what the Languedoc produces and sells is red wine – nothing earth-shattering in that statement – but an obvious plus-side to having lots of Mediterranean red varieties planted, is the potential to make increasing amounts of rosé to match a growing thirst for the pink style. Couple this with the right technology and winemaking for producing good (dry) rosé and a different way of thinking at the outset - i.e. preselecting certain vines, plots, picking dates for this style rather than it being a second-choice by-product - and things are looking up. A massive quantity of decent, often varietal, rosé is already being syphoned off into IGP 'category' wines (used to be Vins de Pays - these weren't available for tasting for some reason); and I've already talked about what the catch-all Languedoc AOP has to offer on the red and white front – the same applies to rosé. There are also sometimes high-quality rosés coming from just about all the other Languedoc appellations – rosé now holds a 12% share – some of them better known than others.

Château Borie Neuve Minervois rosé - see below
(apologies for the crap photo).

Corbières, that vast hilly region sitting on the Languedoc's western side snuggling up along the top of the Roussillon, sits in the former camp. And here, good rosé isn't anything new, there just seem to be more and more producers making very nice ones: full-bodied, fruity, dry and crisp and essentially based on Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault with the odd dollop of Mourvèdre or the 'other' Grenache varieties, white and grey. Corbières 2014 rosés from these wineries particularly caught my eye at last week's “Terroirs et Millésimes en Languedoc” showcase held in the region: Château Beauregard-Mirouze, Terre d'Expression, Château Saint-Estève, Château les Palais, Château Ortala and the star Clos Canos (one of the winemakers credited with making the first serious rosés in the region); all of them sitting comfortably in the £5.99 to £7.49 bracket.

Staying out west, lying to the north of Carcassonne, the Cabardès appellation still has something of an identity problem, and the best reds usually come from the same three or four names; but I was nicely surprised by the rosés on offer, all from the fresh and zingy 2014 vintage. Like the reds, these are all variations on a theme of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Syrah, Malbec and Merlot with some Cinsault. These four rosés would hit similar £5-£7.50 price points, except a grander more ambitious part barrel-aged rosé by Vignobles Lorgeril / Château de Pennautier (£8.99): Château Ventenac, Vignerons du Triangle d'Or and Château Jouclary.

Moving east to Minervois, another sweeping red wine heartland with up-and-down quality, where there also appears to be an accelerating trend to making big dry rosés. Quite a few tasty ones to be found here from the just-released 2014 vintage, such as examples from Château du Donjon, Château La Grave (both £6.50-£7), Château Borie Neuve (dearer at £10 although very good and comes in a smart heavy-bottomed bottle: photo above) and Château Sainte Eulalie (£6.29), built on Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah.

Still moving eastwards, the neighbouring sprawling Saint-Chinian region and then more compact Faugères, to the north of Béziers, both home to some of the Languedoc's best red wines, have integrated rosé into their respective appellation make-ups. And many producers in both areas are taking it very seriously, having tried several delicious and altogether more structured examples last week. These tend to be on the slightly dearer side though (approx retail £6.99-£9.99), perhaps because of lower yields or not wanting to have too much of a price disparity between their reds (and now whites), but would suit independent merchants who could hand-sell them. Here are a few names that did it for me. St-Chinian (all 2014): Château Viranel, Château La Dournie, Château Bousquette, Domaine Moulinier, Laurent Miquel / Château Cazal Viel and Château Coujan (one of the few with majority Mourvèdre). Faugères: Domaine des Trinités, Domaine du Météore and Domaine l'Arbusselle among others..."
All rights Richard Mark James for Harpers.

RMJ's pick of Languedoc pinks
€ prices are cellar door - see above in the text for approx UK retail prices.

Corbières rosé all 2014 vintage
Château Beauregard Mirouze Tradition (Syrah, Grenache) - Fairly intense and crisp with floral red fruits and nice bite. €7

Terre d'Expression Fortes Tetes (Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah) - 'Gummy' and zesty, fair depth and length, gets more aromatic on the finish. €4.90

Château Saint-Esteve (Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault) - Yeast lees-y and crisp, again very tight and closed up but has substance for a rosé; a foodie. €5.50

Château les Palais Tradition (Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvèdre) - Very tight and crisp mouth-feel, a bit too fresh perhaps although there's something underneath. Trying be very Provence. €6.50

Château Ortala (Syrah, Grenache) - Juicy with 'boiled sweet' aromas, gummy extract on the palate, fresh but less tart than many of the others with more rose petal and red fruit characters. €7.70

Clos Canos (Grenache noir, Grenache gris, Grenache blanc, Syrah) - Very juicy and tasty, 'gummy' and 'chalky' almost, fresh and zingy yet again has very nice aromatic rose and red fruits. Classy. €7

Château du Roc La Grange (Syrah, Grenache) - Gummy and lively, not bad for the price. €4.70
Château Le Luc - pale Provencesque style, nice and zippy and crisp with it.

Cabardès rosé 2014

Vignobles Alain Maurel Château Ventenac Cuvée Diane (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Syrah, Malbec) - Lively gummy style, crisp and tight mouth-feel with subtle rose petal and redcurrant, zingy finish. €7.50

Vignobles Lorgeril Château de Pennautier 'Terroirs d'Altitude' (Grenache, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault; small portion barrel-aged) - Tight and zesty palate with yeast-lees notes, very crisp; should be quite good. €10.50

Vignerons du Triangle d'Or Notre Dame de la Gardie (Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Cinsault) - More currant-y and fruity with light 'celery' and floral tones plus red fruits too, crisp zingy finish. €4.60

Château Jouclary (Cabernet Franc, Cinsault, Grenache) - Very zesty, 'chalky' zingy texture, elegant and tight mouth-feel; starts to open up a bit on the finish. €5.50

Minervois rosé 2014

Château du Donjon (Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah) - Zingy elegant style, a little closed up and lees-y but should round out nicely. €6

Château La Grave Expression (Syrah, Grenache) - Juicy and elegant, light red fruits and rose petal, 'chalky' zesty finish; stylish. €6.40

Château Borie Neuve Marie (Grenache, Cinsault) - Fragrant rose petal aromas, tight and zingy and tasty, long and elegant vs a touch of weight too. Stylish even if quite expensive: comes in a chunky heavy bottle (photo above). €12.90

Château Sainte-Eulalie (Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah) - Very tight and zingy style with crisp bite, almost like a white but has hints of redcurrant. €5.40

Saint-Chinian rosé 2014

Domaine Marion Pla Petit Bonheur (Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah; organic) - Tight and steely palate vs subtle rose and red fruits, crisp and long style. €6.70

Château Viranel Tradition (Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault) - Bigger fruity style, powerful and rounded vs tight and crisp to finish. Good. €8

Château La Dournie (Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault) - Sweet berry and quite lush creamy raspberry flavours, chalkier crisper finish; nice foodie rosé. €6.10

Château Bousquette Rosalie (Grenache, Syrah; organic) - Zingy zesty and intense, light rose petal tones, steely bite vs ripe fruit notes underneath. Very nice. €6

Château St Martin des Champs Camille (Syrah, Grenache) - Steely and lean palate at first vs light red fruit notes, has fair depth though with good length and bite. Quite dear: €10.

Domaine Moulinier (Syrah, Grenache) - Very lively and juicy with red fruit and rose aromas, super crisp 'mineral' finish. Yum. €5.80 good value.

Laurent Miquel Château Cazal Viel vieilles vignes (old vines: Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault) - Subtle steely gummy and chalky mouth-feel vs aromatic floral fruit, needs a few months to open up. €8.90

Château Coujan Tradition (Mourvèdre, Syrah; organic) - Lively lees-y start then ripe red berry vs very zesty and crisp, quite big too vs tight steely and long finish. Good stuff. €6.20

Faugères rosé
Domaine des Trinités 2013 (mostly Syrah + Carignan; biodynamic) - fairly rich and fruity with underlying dry 'mineral' side, powerful yet with attractive bite. Good, drinking now. €6.50
Domaine du Météore Les Léonides 2014 - crisp and steely with subtle floral red fruits, lively dry finish; also quite stylish. Probably about £9-£10 in the UK.
Domaine l'Arbussele Envol 2014 (GSM, 13% abv) - lively and aromatic with red fruits and roses, tight and zingy palate with delicate yet long finish. Very nice dry rosé: this was his first vintage.
More from these Faugères producers to follow.

Pic Saint-Loup rosé
These three were my favourites from a small line-up of 2014 rosés tasted outdoors - in the shadow of the Peak so to speak - in a hurry: Château Valcyre (mostly Syrah + Grenache - about €7), Mas Bruguière (Syrah 50%, Mourvèdre 40%, Grenache 10% - €8.50) and Pierre Clavel's Mescladis (60% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre; organic - €7-€7.50, UK £9.60).

Other rosés that crossed my path favourably (mostly):

Clos des Nines Pulp 2014 Pays d'Oc (Grenache, Cinsault) - good combo with chorizo type saucisson.

Gérard Bertrand Château La Sauvageonne 2014 Languedoc (Syrah and Grenache mostly; 6 months in barrel) - a tad oaky, but really came into its own with the lobster ravioli in bisque sauce served at Le Jardin des Sens in Montpellier (name dropping, moi). Hopelessly expensive though at €39!
L'Emothion d'Encoste 2013 Languedoc - still restrained at first (although very cold), classic dry rosé style which was an admirable match for a variety of charcuterie.

Read on below for my thoughts on Languedoc appellation whites and reds (or click there). Plenty more to come from elsewhere in the Languedoc too...