Languedoc: Clos Bagatelle, Saint-Chinian

Updated September 2013 - click here to read - featuring their delicious 2000 vintage La Gloire de Mon Père...

Clos Bagatelle, originally the name ("lieu-dit") of a smaller plot of land here, now stretches to around 60 hectares (150 acres) on the outskirts of St-Chinian 'town' itself and some vines in St-Jean de Minervois as well presumably, as they also appear to make a sweet fortified Muscat from this lesser-known appellation lying a little to the west. I’ve tried their wines on three occasions in the last four years and have been consistently impressed; and tasted the first three wines noted below over lunch with Christine Deleuze in Montpellier in March this year during the “Languedoc Millésimes” marathon tasting week. Christine runs the estate with her brother Luc Simon, whose family has been here since the 17th Century apparently.

I’ve used my ‘new’ scoring system of one, two or three ‘ticks’ (good, very good, fabulous); or just plain 1 to 3 here. Euro prices below are cellar door per bottle inc. taxes. More info @ closbagatelle.com (currently "under construction"). Some CB wines are available in the UK from terroirlanguedoc.co.uk (£12-£20), redrobewines.co.uk (£6.95-£8.50) and gauntleys.com (£8.50-£9.50); and tedwardwines.com in New York City.

Donnadieu "Camille et Juliette" rosé 2010 (Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre 13%) - again a pale "rosé de presse" style (they’ve stopped doing saignée rosé), subtle and crisp with red vs creamy fruit, tight and quite steely finish. 1+ €6.50

Bagatelle white 2010 (Roussanne, Grenache blanc, Carignan blanc, Vermentino, Chenin) - milky leesy edges with light toast vs juicy and quite rich mouth-feel, attractive mineral/celery/aniseed tones vs weight on the finish. 2

Veillée d’Automne red 2008 (13.5%) - a tad baked with nice cherry/berry fruit though and wild herby edges; quite rich vs freshness underneath adding an elegant touch vs a bit of power too, turning mature/savoury vs sweet strawberry/cherry. 1+

And tasted in March 2009: Terre de mon Père 2009 (Syrah/Mourvèdre/Grenache) - similar profile to their floral, sweet-cherry and cassis-laden Mathieu et Marie 09 (better value too at €6.20 and 2) but chunkier and grippier; still has that delicious intense minty thing vs rich and long dry finish. €20 2+

And April 2007: La Gloire de Mon Père 2004 (13%) - very rich tar v floral Syrah? notes, chunky and lush v firm tannins; coffee and liquorice flavours linger on an earthy v 'sweet' finish, long and full. €20 3

Languedoc: Domaine La Croix Chaptal, Terrasses du Larzac

Charles-Walter Pacaud makes some fairly classic high-ground Med reds up in the blink-and-miss-it old-as-time “village” of Cambous found not far from slightly better known Saint André de Sangonis (about 30km northwest of Montpellier). But he has another somewhat unusual trump up his sleeve in the form of a white wine: the Clairette variety and old ones too. There’s actually a separate appellation for dry whites in this area made from 100% Clairette; Charles told me that, when he bought this 25 hectare (60 acre) property, he was tempted to remove and replace this old-vine Clairette, which locally was mostly used to produce drink-young whites in a light refreshing style that often lacked a bit of character. And people offering advice at that time weren’t very enamoured with it suggesting he pulled it up to replant more red varieties.

Well, he didn’t and good job too. From the four vintages of his Clairette I tried with him at Chez Boris restaurant in Montpellier on 20 March 2011, this neglected variety can turn out something rather inspiring and age-worthy too, if treated right in the vineyard (planted in chalky pebbly soils, restricted yields) and cellar (e.g. judicious lees-ageing). La Croix Chaptal also makes a range of red, white and rosé Coteaux du Languedoc wines, three very different and more selected Terrasses du Larzac reds and a trio of quirky late-picked botrytised whites / a red even… Their wines are distributed in the UK, USA, Canada, Germany, Switzerland, Denmark, Belgium and elsewhere in Europe; and "maybe soon" in the Far East. See www.lacroixchaptal.com for importer/retailer contact details.

2003 Cuvée Charles (Carignan, Syrah, Grenache) – still looking good with maturing savoury side, has an elegant touch actually for a hot-vintage 03 with attractive sweet/savoury finish vs a tad of grip and fresh bite keeping it alive. 2

2001 Cuvée Charles (Carignan, Syrah, Grenache) – more savoury and complex nose vs lighter and more mature palate, long and tasty finish though; very good but the 03 could outlast it. 2

2009 Clairette du Languedoc – a touch reductive on the nose, light bitter/aniseed twist in the mouth vs nice nutty Burgundy character, tightens up on the finish. Needs a few months to express itself. 1+

2008 Clairette – reductive/mineral notes again, turning fresher vs quite rich mouth-feel actually with leesy/nutty/creamy side, well balanced and stylish. 1-2

2007 Clairette – developing complex aromas with toasty edges even, quite full vs still zesty underneath, lovely style. 2

2006 Clairette – oxidising cider-y tones yet it’s still interesting, fatter palate but again has that attractive nutty side. (1)

Wine of the mo: Ancien Comté white Grenache

L’Ancien Comté Grenache blanc 2010 (13%) - very nice mix of “estery” pear and exotic pineapple with milky yeast-lees edges, zesty lively finish vs attractive bit of weight. Round of applause to Mont Tauch co-op winery in the Fitou highlands for understanding oak fermentation/ageing and a dry white wine that doesn’t taste of it. Great with fish & chips too. 2 (see below for explanation of my "new" rating system.) £7.95 Jeroboams, London.

Languedoc: Saint-Chinian 2010 vintage

This is another in a series of reports and winery profiles from five intensive days spent at the “Languedoc Millésimes” tastings in the region (21-25 March 2011), where I had the chance to taste mostly 2010, 2009 and 2008 vintages. As well as, more importantly and more fun, meet and talk to a couple of St-Chinian winemakers and try (drink/enjoy even; woops, not v. pc) some of their older wines too. I’ve used my ‘new’ scoring system of one, two or three ‘ticks’ (good, very good, fabulous); or just plain 1 to 3 here, if you get my drift. Euro prices are cellar door per bottle inc. taxes, added later so didn’t influence my notes.

Based on a hardly comprehensive/definitive sampling below, 2010 appears to have produced some good but not great white wines and lacklustre to good rosés. Quite a few of the red samples were looking a bit fragile or dumb or ugly-duckling, which is always a risk when raw and unfinished wines are left open to the air. However, certain bottles were already showing very well with similar hallmarks to other Languedoc regions: rich and concentrated with solid fruit and structure yet appealing-textured tannins. Mind you, I said stuff like that last year and the year before about the two previous vintages; and now 2008 is generally looking a bit of a mixed bag (for reds anyway, actually pretty sound for white and rosé) and 2009 can either really impress or rather disappoint.

2010 was a rollercoaster year of weather with a long cold winter, snow in early March in certain places (and not necessarily just on the hills), an awkward hesitant spring with warm weather then rainy and colder again, followed by a very hot and very dry summer, isolated storms in August/September although, generally, very warm right through till early October. Net result: vibrant high-quality reds, as described above, but low on the quantity front thanks to that challenging growing season. Further comments on these three vintages to follow, as I post more blurbs like this on other areas of the Languedoc.

Rugged St-Chinian wine-lands, from www.borielavitarele.fr

Saint-Chinian 2010 vintage

WHITE

Domaine des Soulié - estery fresh pear and grapey vs intricate aniseed/fennel tones, crisp and mineral bite. 1

Domaine La Croix Sainte Eulalie "tradition" (1/3 Roussanne, Grenache blanc, Vermentino) - similar although more perfumed and exotic/flowery, zesty/chalky mouth-feel, nice and zingy with that underlying flowery peach/apricot fruit. Acid/alcohol a bit hard at the moment although shows attractive oily vs crisp profile. 1+ €5.60

Domaine Rimbert (Clairette, Roussanne, Grenache blanc, Vermentino) - flowery and peachy, more intricate and interesting though on the nose; ends up a tad flat/dilute compared with above, although there's fresh acidity and nice bitter twist vs banana fruit. 1 €6.50

Cave de Roquebrun "Col de la Serre" (Grenache blanc, Roussanne) - milky/lightly toasty with quite rich exotic honey and apricot; subtle oak grain, fatter pineapple fruit vs mineral undertones. Touch clunky perhaps but attractive style overall and good value. 1 €4.50

Domaine du Sacré Coeur (Grenache blanc, Roussanne) - juicy fruity pineapple vs grapey floral tones, crisper palate and zesty finish. 1 €5.20

Cave des Vignerons St-Chinian "Secret des Capitelles" (Grenache blanc, Roussanne) - yeast-leesy buttery and full-on vs cut of acidity, fair mouthful although a bit flabby and simple. 0.5 €6.60

Domaine La Linquière "Fleur de Lin" (Grenache blanc, Vermentino) - ripe and honeyed with milky edges, rounded vs zingy with quite intense mineral side vs that quite exotic fruit. 1.5-2 €9

Clos Bagatelle (Roussanne, Grenache blanc, Carignan blanc, Vermentino, Chenin) - milky leesy edges with light toast vs juicy and quite rich mouth-feel, attractive mineral/celery/aniseed tones vs weight on the finish. 2

ROSÉ

Château Cazal Viel "Vieilles Vignes" (Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah) - elegant pink colour, rose petal and light red fruit notes, zingy crisp palate with subtle biter twist; fair class. 1-2 €7.60

Château Creissan "Cort d'Amor" (Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Mourvèdre) - pale pink, similar style to above although much less intense. OK at €4.

Domaine Moulinier (Syrah, Grenache) - quite delicate and tight, subtle creamy red fruits, lacks bit of zest perhaps but it’s OK. 0.5 €5.80

Domaine des Mathurins "Petite Fantaisie" (Syrah, Cinsault) - fuller orangey colour, oily/fruity style, more "vinous" and chunky, quite nice although lacks bit of class. 0.5 €4.50

Clos Bagatelle Donnadieu "Camille et Juliette" (Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre 13%) - again a pale "rosé de presse" style (they’ve stopped doing saignée rosé), subtle and crisp with red vs creamy fruit, tight and quite steely finish. 1+ €6.50

Château La Dournie (1/3 Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah) - quite elegant and zesty, nice crunchy redcurrant/cranberry then "sweeter" finish. 1 €5.70

Domaine La Linquière (Grenache, Syrah) - juicy fruity boiled sweetie, has a bit of leesy bite and creamier finish. €5

Domaine Rimbert "Le Rosé réussi" (Cinsault, Syrah) - oilier style with rounder strawberry fruit, bit of zing although ends tad bland maybe. 0.5 €5.80

RED - unfinished vat/cask samples

Château La Dournie "Elise" (Syrah, Grenache) - lovely minty wild spicy black cherry, peppery and punchy vs rich and fruity, quite a kick and nice firm/round tannins. 2 €13.50

Mas Champart "Causse du Bousquet" (Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache) - somewhat closed and awkward, a tad malo-lactic on the nose; nice fruit though and again soft-ish tannins. 1+? €11.60

Borie La Vitarele "Terres Blanches" (biodynamic) - again shows lovely fruit, pure vibrant dark cherry and liquorice with peppery edges; juicy vs concentrated, attractive coated tannins vs ripe black fruits vs wild herby touches. 2

Château La Madura "Grand Vin" (Mourvèdre, Syrah, Grenache, Carignan) - bit awkward and firm, not showing well. €17

Domaine de Pech Ménel (Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Mourvèdre) - malo notes but rich and chunky underneath, again fine tannins and concentrated mouthful. 2 €6-€7

La Croix Sainte Eulalie "Armandelis" (Syrah, Mourvèdre) - minty and wild flowers/herbs, nice fresh cherry fruit then spicier liquorice side, firmer palate vs solid depth. 2.5 €7.70

Domaine du Sacré Coeur - not showing much, taste it again in a few months.

Château Belot "Les Mouleyres" (Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache) - oak dominated, obviously, and structured vs rounded, could be promising if they don't keep it much longer in that new? oak. 1
Not sure who made these two, they had just one mysterious word stuck onto the bottle. Will find out and add producer's name:

Chant - lovely lavender and black cherry, nice tannins, darker vs more savoury finish with grip and tight elegant flourish. 2.5

Esprit - lots of new oak, fair substance underneath and very firm, difficult to taste but would like to come back to it.

Saint-Chinian red, other vintages

Le Prieuré des Mourgues Grande Réserve 2007 (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, 14%) - well balanced with solid tannins vs sweet fruit and developing savoury/animal notes, quite rich and spicy (paprika) vs attractive black cherry and length; maturing vs structured finish with firm vs rounded texture and lively flourish too. 2+ €12

Borie La Vitarèle Les Terres Blanches 2009 - lush black cherry with earthy peppery edges, solid vs appealing rounded palate finishing with sweet fruit and power. 2 €8.50

Mas de Cynanque L’Acutum 2008 (Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan; estate converting over to organic) - powerful with grainy texture vs rich cherry fruit, has a touch of freshness about it although it’s a bit “hot” too, attractive depth of fruit though. 1 €12 

Profile on Clos Bagatelle. Scan down the Languedoc winery A to Z for more, right hand column or do a search using "Saint Chinian."

Languedoc: Domaine de Cébène, Faugères

Brigitte Chevalier purchased a few parcels of lofty vineyards in 2006 in the northern reaches of the Faugères appellation, which give their name to three different wines reflecting terrain and grape variety. Les Bancèls, the name traditionally coined by the locals for high schist terraces on the Cévennes foothills, is a blend of east- and north-facing Syrah, north-facing Grenache and Mourvèdre, which Brigitte believes is particularly at home on her highest south-facing slopes. Felgaria is a barrel-selection cuvée based on at least half of the latter variety plus the other two, with less Grenache in it. However, for those hardcore G-aficionados out there, she also makes another red called “Ex Arena” from 85% Grenache sourced from sandy pebbley deposits in a different spot.

The estate has been converted over to organic winegrowing from the beginning with “official” status granted when the 2010s are released. Overall, on evidence of three vintages (see below), Brigitte’s wines look very promising, even if a touch dear; well, for me anyway, and no more than many other small-production hand-crafted wineries. These five reds were sampled at the “Languedoc Millésimes” tastings in the region (21-25 March 2011), where I met and talked to Brigitte one evening. I’ve used my ‘new’ scoring system of one, two or three ‘ticks’ (good, very good, fabulous); or just plain 1 to 3 here, if you get my drift. Euro prices are cellar door per bottle inc. taxes, added later so didn’t influence my notes (if it makes any difference).

Les Bancèls 2009 (50% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre) - sweet cherry fruity nose with aromatic wild herbs, strawberry and peppery edges; solid grippy palate vs lovely fruit and nice rounded tannins. 1.5-2 €14
Tasted one year previously: Les Bancèls 2009 - lively fruit on the nose; more austere palate with power and bite, although again attractive tannins. €13 87

Les Bancèls 2008 (similar blend) - similar nose, nicer fruit palate with maturing oily touches, peppery and black cherry; quite punchy/hot on finish vs firm vs bit of sweet & savoury. 1 €14

Les Bancèls 2010 (cask/vat sample, will be the first certified organic vintage) - delicious black cherry/berry fruit with some earthy savoury edges, quite chunky palate and tannins but nice balance. Promising. 2

Cuvée Felgaria 2009 (50% Mourvèdre, 35% Syrah, 15% Grenache) - wild herb and tobacco notes, lovely spicy fruit and intensity, nice rounded vs dry tannins and plenty of that peppery vs sweet fruit. Yum. 2-3 €30

Cuvée Felgaria 2008 (similar blend of Mourvèdre, Syrah, Grenache) - lovely intricate nose, herby and minty even vs developing sweet & savoury fruit; subtle oak texture and choc vs cherry fruit, concentration and oomph vs elegance (although a tad hot in the end maybe). 2 €30

www.cebene.fr

Languedoc: Domaine Alquier, Faugères

Established by pioneering dad Gilbert more than 40 years ago (there weren't many grape-growers making their own wines at that time), this 12 ha / 30 acre estate is run nowadays by charming couple Frédéric (son of) and Florence Alquier. They make traditional lush smoky reds from Syrah, Mourvèdre and old Carignan & Grenache; and, as I've seen elsewhere in the region, an increasingly good white Faugères fashioned from those star Rhone varieties Roussanne and Marsanne, as demonstrated by the forthcoming 2009 vintage (see notes below). Mind you, there won't be much of it as yields in 09 for whites were "down to 15 hl/ha instead of 40 to 50 usually," Frédéric told me as we tasted in his cellar in November 2009. By the way, I couldn't help noticing one of those newfangled basket presses (wooden slats on the outside with automated plungey screw bit) - not that I get so excited about winery equipment, but these are becoming very de rigueur as they seem to be "much better for reds than the old ones like Vaslin," as Frédéric explained.

So, if you're touring around this pretty area (definitely wild-pretty rather than pretty-pretty), why not go and taste in the Alquier's cosy on-site tasting room, which joins on to the office at the back of their house across the yard from the more visible new cellar. More details of where to find them etc. are on their website: follow the signs heading for Pézènes off to the left on the way out of the village. Alquier's wines are imported into the UK by Richards Walford (a bit of an estate-Languedoc specialist who sell to many well-known London restaurants).

2007 white Faugères (Roussanne, Marsanne) - honeyed and lightly toasted with attractive colourful spicy fruit; peppery and quite powerful palate showing mature creamy notes then mineral finish, drinking now. 83-85
2009 white (Roussanne Marsanne vat sample) - delicious citrus vs exotic fruit, floral and peppery too; juicy and crisp vs subtle roundness and weight, already very nice. 87+
2006 Faugères "tradition" (Syrah Grenache Carignan) - not so open on the nose, develops nice dark cherry fruit with herbal red pepper tones; juicy and lightly smoky with liquorice flavours, softish tannins saying drink me now although it will keep a couple of years longer. 85
2005 Faugères "tradition" - resiny mature fruit with spicy touches, again quite elegant and drinking now, although this has more weight and tannins than the 06, then "sweet" liquorice on the finish. 85-87
2005 Eugènie Faugères (mostly Syrah) - slightly toasty oak and chocolate coating enhanced by spicy black cherry fruit; shows more depth, concentration and structure with layered tannins adding grip and closing it up a little on the finish. 89
2004 Eugènie - more perfumed even with smokier fruit too, softer and more elegant with attractive dry texture vs "sweet/savoury" fruit and grainy edges. 87
Tasted from vat or cask:
2007 "tradition" - nice crunchy berry fruit vs darker liquorice, spicy and juicy with sexy tannins. 87
2008 "tradition" - more floral violet aromas, pure peppery black cherry too; liquorice flavours again, more concentrated and grippier than the 07, promising. 87-89
2006 Eugènie - menthol notes with light coconut/cedar spice; appealing lush mouthfeel with dark fruit vs firm and spicy finish, complex and well-balanced. 89-91

Update - a couple of latest Alquier vintages here:

Languedoc: Faugères focus (Apr 01, 2011)

Clos Timothée, 6 Route de Pézènes-les-Mines, 34600 Faugères. Tel: 04 67 95 15 21, www.gilbert-alquier.fr.

Roussillon: Domaine des Chênes, Vingrau

When a small group of us called in on Alain Razungles just outside the village of Vingrau on the hot sunny morning of 5th September 2006, they were picking the first bunches of Carignan - some of the vines at least 90 years old - at his 30 ha (75 acre) domaine. It sits serenely in one of the most breathtaking spots you'd ever imagine finding vines, despite a ten year struggle to stop some indifferent multinational from turning the area into a dirty great mine.
The 'cirque de Vingrau' is edged by steep, rough limestone cliffs and hills, actually an outer limb of the Corbières, located about 30 km northwest of Perpignan. It's a haunting place where you feel isolated yet surrounded and like you're being watched; and not surprisingly popular with rock climbers. Alain has planted "quite a bit of Syrah," the youngest of which "is too productive at the moment for my best wines." Relatively speaking: yields in this wild terrain aren't large. Plantings rise from 130 to 400 metres (400-1250 feet) altitude, which could explain why he has 50% white grapes, very unusual in the area, as they retain nice fresh acidity on higher ground. Varieties include old Grenache gris & blanc and Roussanne introduced from the northern Rhone.
I bumped into Alain, whose 'day job' outside of the family estate is professor of winemaking and viticulture at Montpellier University, by the way, again in March 2011 up in funky Faugeres country, where he gave a rapid running-late lecture and tutored tasting on flavour chemistry and profiles to a hungry thirsty audience of journos, local winegrowers and politicians! Interesting though, as was the geology and history demo out in the vineyards beforehand, and we tried some lovely wines: more on that here.

2005 Les Olivettes vin de pays d'Oc (Muscat Macabeu Grenache Blanc) - lightly aromatic with clean mineral palate, refreshing acidity and intensity v weightier yet elegant length. 87+
2003 Les Sorbiers Côtes du Roussillon (Grenache Blanc Macabeu, 14%) - aged 6 months in oak: light toast and cream with spicy celery notes v fat milky mouth-feel and apricot fruit, yet fresh acidity on the finish. 90
2004 Les Magdaléniens (Grenache Blanc Roussanne, 13%) - richer and more buttery with honeysuckle fruit, again fresh mineral acidity; aromatic qualities help balance the toastiness. 88
2005 Festa Major rosé Côtes du Roussillon (mostly Syrah, 13%) - lovely creamy raspberry fruit v white pepper tones set against crisp mineral texture; delicious. 87-89
2004 Les Grands-Mères vieilles vignes Côtes du Roussillon Villages (mostly Carignan, 13%) - a bit reductive/sulphide on the nose? Cassis and plum fruit comes through with a spicy chocolate layer, seems to lack generosity but it's rather closed up on the finish; not sure...
2004 Le Mascarou, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Tautavel (Carignan Syrah Grenache, 14.5%) - smokier and meatier, spicy cassis fruit leads to a firm tight and fresh finish; needs time, very promising. 89-91
2003 La Carissa, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Tautavel (Syrah Grenache Carignan Mourvèdre, 14.5%) - sumptuous aromatic spice with light cedar tones, nice black fruit concentration v fresh bite and elegant intensity. 90-92
2004 Muscat de Rivesaltes - richer very grapey style yet retains that hallmark freshness and mineral character, attractively full and sweet v lively cut on the finish. 90
2001 Rivesaltes Ambré - aromatic baked walnut with volatile complexity, very intense and long, good balance of sugar and alcohol. 92-94
2001 Rivesaltes Tuilé - attractive leather notes and black plum, rich mouth coating v fresh bite, powerful yet sweet and tannic. Woof. 90
L'Oublié Rancio sec (Macabeu 13.5%) - literally one barrel forgotten about for 4 years (actually 95 vintage): dry Amontillado style, old & oxidised yet fresh tangy and very long. 90

Domaine des Chênes is stocked by Lea & Sandeman in London. You'll find them in situ at 7 rue du Maréchal Joffre, 66600 Vingrau. Tel: 04 68 38 92 01.