d'Arenberg - McLaren Vale, South Australia.
The Osborn family has farmed vineyards in the McLaren Vale since 1912, and chief winemaker Chester has been running the operation for over 40 years. Their eccentric and wide range is sourced from over 25 varieties including many Mediterranean and other French, Spanish and Italian grapes, some of which come from very old bush vines. According to their site: 'McLaren Vale is home to some of the oldest vines in the country, dating as far back as 1850.' There was even an exhibition of Salvador Dalí monumental sculptures showing at the winery!
The Derelict Vineyard Grenache 2019 (14.5% abv): 'At a time when Grenache was considered unfashionable, Chester acquired many old bush vine, overgrown and abandoned vineyards. These still have a slightly dishevelled appearance but are back producing very low yields of exceptional fruit.' Hence the name. 'Open fermenters with foot treading, basket pressed and transferred to old French oak barriques to complete fermentation and aged on lees.' Nice sweet-Grenache liquorice fruit with dried cherry notes, still has a bit of structured grip and weighty rounded finish. €26-€28 Ireland, £18-£21 UK, $32 Aus, $30-$35 US.
The Laughing Magpie Shiraz - Viognier 2018 (14.5% abv): Actually named after 'the Kookaburra, a native Australian bird famous for its distinctive laughing call.' Similar winemaking to above with the Viognier and Shiraz fermented together. Attractive herby peppery nose with lovely mature sweet fruit, weighty palate with long tasty finish. Good stuff. Same price as above.
De Bortoli Wines - New South Wales/Victoria.
Vittorio de Bortoli left northern Italy 100 years ago arriving in NSW, and the rest is history as the cliché goes. The third generation of the family is still very much in charge (and being joined by the fourth), working with long-time winemaker Steve Webber who's also married to a De Bortoli! They now own vineyards in several regions: Yarra Valley, Riverina, King Valley, Heathcote (most recent acquisition), Hunter Valley and Rutherglen. Bottle shot from debortoli.com.au.
Woodfired Heathcote Shiraz 2022 (14.5% abv): 100% Shiraz selected from several vineyards in Northern Heathcote, Victoria. Matured in vats and casks for 8 months. Herby yet ripe black fruits and spice on the nose, lovely pure fruit on the palate underpinned by a touch of tannin on a lively dark fruity finish. €18-€19, £16-£19, $19-$22 Aus, $22 US.
Peerick - Pyrenees, Victoria.
'The rugged Australian Pyrenees' lie 'surrounded by the great wine regions of western and central Victoria.' The name 'Peerick derives from the Aboriginal word 'beeric', a wild cat,' and this family business is owned and run by Michael and Felicity O’Hara and their children Megan and Luke. The vineyard and winery were established and planted by the Jessup family in the 1990s, which the O’Hara's acquired in 2018 and relaunched the brand. 'Family wine pour' photo from www.peerick.com.au
Shiraz Viognier 2020 (14.5% abv): Wild yeast fermented with 20% whole bunches and 2% Viognier, matured in mostly used French barrels. Shows good depth of mature smoky fruit and supple tannins, very nice red. $29 Aus.
The Mang Merlot, Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc, Shiraz 2019 (13.8% abv): Quirky selection sourced from a vineyard lying at 410 metres altitude in the Warrenmang area of the Australian Pyrenees region in northwest Victoria. Another attractive mature savoury-flavoured red, subtle and balanced, long tasty finish. $39 Aus.
Wirra Wirra - McLaren Vale, South Australia.
Another historic McLaren Vale vineyard and winery, Wirra Wirra (after the indigenous tribe) was established in the heart of SA's red wine coast over 100 years ago. The original cellar dates from 1894 and had a serious upgrade last year; there are 26 to 130 year-old Grenache vines planted on the property. Photo from wirrawirra.com.
Catapult Shiraz 2022 (14.5% abv): 'Approx. 70% French and 30% American, new and seasoned oak, blending to 20% new oak in the final wine.' Lifted scented peppery herby black fruit nose, intense lively fruit palate, despite its age, with nice rounded palate weight. Tasty Shiraz. €25, $20-$28 Aus and NZ, £18-£20.
Farmer's Heart Grenache 2023 (14.5% abv): Selected from different sites, about half from 'century-old' vines; barrel ('neutral and seasoned oak') and tank matured. Concentrated and tight mouthfeel layered with liquorice and spice notes, big mouthful but it's still balanced; lovely Grenache. €25, $28 Aus.
Woodhenge Shiraz 2022 (14.5% abv): French and American barriques and hogsheads (25% new) for 18 months. Wild herbs and spice with peppery black fruits, big and firm palate underlined by delicious fruit. Very good. €30, £25, $35-$40 Aus.
RSW Shiraz 2021 (14.5% abv): Sourced from the Sandhill and Blewitt Springs vineyards including plantings from the 1960s; open fermenters with some whole bunches, French oak barriques and 'puncheons' ('one third new'). Maturing and ripe dried fruits, softening tannins yet still with a quite firm finish, once again backed up by lots of concentrated fruit though. Serious but dear: €50, £40-£45 (older vintages), $80 Aus.
Angove Family Winemakers - South Australia.
Founded in 1886, Angove is one of Australia's oldest and 'most successful wine businesses' (their words); today this fifth-generation family company is apparently also 'Australia's leader in organic wines.'
Family Crest McLaren Vale Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre 2022 (14.5% abv): 'old vine' Grenache 45% (Blewitt Springs and Warboys vineyards), Shiraz 25% (high Sellicks Hills) and Mourvèdre 20% (Sellicks foothills); 20 months in 'large French oak vats, puncheons and hogsheads.' Firm and punchy with herby berry fruit and sweeter liquorice notes, nice well-made Med/Rhone blend. €22, $28 Aus, $27 US.
Their Warboys Single Vineyard Grenache is worth trying too: the 2020 is smoky and fairly mature, the 2023 rather firm and chunky at the moment.
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