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30 April 2009

Roussillon: Mas Castello aka Domaine Cachau-Dubournais

Mas Castello from domainecachau.creation-website.comDavid Dubournais ("passionnément vigneron" as it says on his card, zealously so!) and Jean-Pierre Cachau have been at Castello for about three years (2006 was their first vintage as far as I can tell: more info to follow when I go and visit them in situ); a rather sizeable 30-ha "block" (75 acres) up on the Crest in the Espira area (north of the airport between Rivesaltes and Cases-de-Pene), which is more unusual to find quite a large estate like that all in one place (rather than a few parcels in different spots). They make the full range of Roussillons from the usual suspects in the vineyard, reasonably priced from €5 to €14 a bottle, including four Rivesaltes VDN styles (Muscat, Ambré, Tuilé and Grenat), which I didn't try at the Fenouillèdes wine fair in late April 2009 but did these, if you see what I mean:
2007 Folie white (Grenache blanc/Macabeu) - aromatic and lively mineral style, appley with white peach flavours too; zingy fresh finish. Left and stirred on the fine lees for a few months. 85+
2008 white (Grenache blanc/gris/Macabeu) - juicy yeast-leesy notes and texture, attractive tasty style showing a bit of weight and oiliness on the palate vs crisp and gummy. 87
2007 Folie rosé (Grenache Syrah) - pretty intense nose and crisp mouthfeel, turning creamier and weightier on the finish vs nice bite. 85+
2008 rosé (mostly Syrah in barriques) - rounded and powerful vs gummy and intense palate with quite rich red fruit cocktail; a bit of a wow rosé actually. 88
2006 vin de pays red (Grenache Syrah) - appetizing menthol, black cherry and liquorice tones/flavours; a bit of grip too on its nice finish. 87
2007 Côtes du Roussillon red (Grenache Syrah Carignan) - more liquorice and black pepper on the nose; attractive "sweetness" and depth, tasty mouthful with light grip and fresh twist vs smoky leather notes. 89
2006 Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Grenache Syrah Carignan Mourvèdre) - less aromatic, more savoury and "serious"; concentrated dark fruit with more structured and powerful palate / texture. 89+
2006 La Folie red (Carignan Syrah Mourvèdre Grenache) - a tad musty? Some old wood adding texture, although it's much grippier and a touch dried out and extracted; the corky/musty character has perhaps exaggerated this?
2007 La Folie (cask sample, more Syrah than the 06 otherwise blend is similar) - spicy wood upfront on the nose, followed by lush concentrated mouthfeel with black fruits/olives; spicy and lively with big tannins, but it's ripe and rounded too and that chocolate oak should melt into it well. 90
Mas Castello, Route de Vingrau, 66600 Espira-de-l'Agly. Tel: 04 68 64 33 38,
domainecachau@orange.fr, domainecachau.creation-website.com.

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Header image: Château de Flandry, Limoux, Languedoc. Background: Vineyard near Terrats in Les Aspres, Roussillon.