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01 October 2005

Australia: De Bortoli, Yarra Valley

De Bortoli - Yarra Valley
Some new releases from this leading Victorian winery, as in the Australian state, obviously, rather than demonstrating prudish 19th Century tendencies. Tasted Oct 2005:
2004 Estate Grown Chardonnay, Yarra Valley (13%) - More complex nose than the Gulf Station showing lightly toasted oats and vanilla notes plus richer buttery pineapple fruit as well; weighty start becoming more elegant on the finish, with better balance of fresh acidity v concentration of 'sweet' fruit. Also more interesting the following day. 90
2003 Estate Grown Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley (13.5%) - Delicious elusive Pinot aromas: perfumed 'sweet and sour' red cherry v savoury backdrop, complex just-ripe pungency v silky fruit and tannins, nice fresh length and style. Good with Catalan sausages (rich and porky). £13.99 in the UK. 92+
2004 Estate Grown Shiraz Viognier, Yarra Valley (13.5%) - Attractively restrained style showing ripe smoky black fruits with light earthy leather edges, soft mouthfeel finishing with subtle dry grip and perfumed fruit. 90
2004 Gulf Station Chardonnay (13%) - Bright and fresh lemony nose with a mealy backdrop, a bit sweet and sour in terms of ripe exotic fruit v bite of acidity and alcohol, but gets better after being open for a while; perhaps less in your face than some but still a bit simple. 85
2005 Gulf Station Semillon - Sauvignon - Immensely aromatic and zingy: fresh gooseberries and kiwis set against a more exotic fruit background, zippy fresh and crisp palate length; a bit one-dimensional perhaps but lively little number nevertheless. 87

All the latest from Australia is here.

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