Post-millennium glut?
There are still rumours of people sitting on piles of Champagne in the wake of overestimated demand last Christmas and New Year, and indeed the deals being offered now by certain retailers seem to confirm this. But what’s the situation in restaurants? “I do not believe there is overstocking in the UK on-trade, unlike the off-trade especially in supermarkets. Though I have no stats to back it up, my belief is that the on-trade bought wisely and to my knowledge restaurants/hotels have all re-ordered Champagne in 2000,” explains Françoise Peretti of the Champagne Information Bureau in London.
Philippe Messey, wine buyer for Gruppo who own the Atlantic Bar & Grill, Somerset House and Mash amongst others, agrees: “I don’t know of anybody being overstocked.” The same message came from Corrina Wilson, marketing manager at importer Bibendum Wines: “Most restaurants exercised far more caution than their supermarket counterparts and ordered erring on the side of caution. There are some cases of well stocked cellars from the millennium backlog and a few well-placed special offers, but it seems that on the whole they have fared much better, and their turnover of champagne has been far more workable.”
However, John Power, sommelier of Edinburgh’s much-talked-about The Witchery, did own up to “having our fingers burnt – we sold less than we thought and have some ’90, ’89 and ’88 vintages left” (which is no bad thing considering the quality and increasing rarity of these!).
Champagne and food
We seem to be indoctrinated in this country to think of Champagne, and even sparkling wine per se, as something to drink only by itself on a special occasion. Yet it can be quite versatile matched with certain types of food. Bibendum Wines held a dinner recently at Simply Heathcote’s in Manchester hosted by Bruno Paillard, who owns a small independent house, which quite successfully demonstrated this. We tried their non-vintage Champagne Brut Première Cuvée Rosé with a pressed terrine of goats’ cheese and potato with plum chutney, which went well with the cheese but better still was their Brut Première Cuvée ‘white’. The delicious 1995 vintage tried very hard with pan-fried calf’s liver but was just overpowered (luckily Bruno also has an estate in Provence, whose red fitted the bill), although was a good match for the accompanying bubble and squeak polenta.
Philippe Messey comments in addition: “In France at school they tell you Champagne goes with everything! We sometimes do Champagne dinners using Prestige Cuvées as they’re richer and more vinous. For example, a really old Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay) goes well with a mushroom-based dish or veal in a cream sauce.”
Sales and promotion
Françoise Peretti believes “the best way to promote Champagne in a restaurant is to offer a real choice to the customers. The 'diversity' message is very strong and customers are the winners when they are offered a large selection of Champagnes across the board; from non-vintage to vintage, from rosés to Blanc de Blancs to prestige cuvées.” So which brands are in demand and when? “We have a large selection,” says John Power, “but Moët, Veuve Clicquot and Bollinger sell on name, and at the prestige end Dom Perignon and Crystal. It’s still a celebratory drink; our biggest sales are at Graduation then Christmas and New Year.”
Alison Dillon at Maisons Marques et Domaines (MMD), agent for Louis Roederer, adds: “Sales are fine, the on-trade is steady. We’re currently doing promotions with top restaurants like Gordon Ramsay’s, such as the customer getting canapés if they order a glass of Roederer.” But, as Corrina Wilson highlights, there is space too for lesser-known producers: “Bruno Paillard sales are up on this time last year - good for Bruno but does not necessarily paint a full picture for the current trends in the trade as a whole!”
Dave Hebden, proprietor of Smith’s restaurant in Eccles, also comments: “Champagne sales are steady but it’s a marginal market for us. We list two, Drappier at £21.95 and Taittinger at £29.95, plus Rowlands Brook Australian fizz at £12.95.”
Competition from other fizz?
“Sommeliers and on-trade buyers tell me that their clients buy Champagne and are reluctant to buy (other) sparkling wines in restaurants; people want to drink the 'real thing',” Peretti continues. This is borne out by others; Philippe Messey relates that “we ran a feature on sparkling wines with one Champagne and one cheaper – sales were at least ten to one, even with £10 difference. Champagne has an aura and prestige, a bit like cigars, a luxury image.” Alison Dillon thinks “in the area we’re marketing Roederer – 5 Star hotels and top restaurants – it’s Champagne they’re looking for.” But interestingly went on: “The Hartford Group, who own e.g. Dakota and Idaho in places like Richmond and Fulham, use Quartet (Roederer’s superb Californian sparkling wine) as their ‘House’, plus a Grande Marque.”
So it’s perhaps only a matter of time before the average drinker discovers good quality alternatives that also give out the same aspirational message. We’re beginning to see a higher profile especially for top Australian fizz, in a similar but belated way to other premium Aussie wines. Chandon Estates, part of the Moët Hennessy group, offers a whole range made by ‘traditional method’ at wineries owned around the world. The best is Green Point from Australia but closely followed by elegant sparklers from Argentina, California (Shadow Creek) and Spain (Cava).
Richard James.
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