WineWriting.com & French Mediterranean Wine
Richard Mark James' wine and travel blog

01 May 2018

Sparkling wines from Chardonnay and Pinot: Italy, Australia, South Africa, France

A tad lengthy and random perhaps for a post title, especially since there's no Champagne included here; but this does feature an eclectic pick of contemporary 'traditional method' fizz (as in made the same way) based on those celebrity varieties. Just goes to show, in the unlikely event that you hadn't noticed, how well these grapes and the necessary know-how have exported in the right place and hands. It's also no surprise then to discover that some of the big Champagne brands invested in other places some time ago in fact - for instance, Moët et Chandon established sparkling production wineries in Argentina back in, unbelievably, 1959, Australia in 1986 and, the most recent India in 2014 among other countries (California, Brazil, China...). And recently as well, Taittinger started planting vineyards in Kent in England last year focusing on Chardy and Pinots Noir and Meunier.
Some of these tasty bubbles are one-offs by the way, particularly the two Lidl wines that could be special-parcel buys and not always available in all stores.

Barone dell' Isola Franciacorta Brut (12.5% abv): Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from northern Italy, bottle aged for 18 months on the yeast-lees. Pretty damn stylish actually with elegant toastiness, for those of you who thought Italy could only make frivolous or inoffensive bubbly. Good antidote to ubiquitous Prosecco. Lidl £9.99.
Crémant d'Alsace (12% abv) France: Okay, it's mostly shaped by Pinot Blanc, although this variety is a member of the same grape family apparently. Refreshing and very quaffable with subtle quality tones. Lidl £7.99.
Graham Beck The Rhona Brut Rosé NV, Western Cape South Africa (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier; 12.5% abv): Delicious and serious Marks & Spencer bubbly from one of South Africa's pioneers of the style. It's £15 a bottle but you'll be rather impressed.

Josef Chromy Tasmania Sparkling NV (62% Pinot Noir, 38% Chardonnay; 18 months lees-ageing): I'm told that three-quarters of Chardonnay grown on Tasmania is now destined for fizz production. Appley nutty aromatic with intense yeast-lees notes on the palate, crisp and fresh countered by rich toasted flavours. Classy. £25 Bibendum PLB.
Pirie Tasmania Sparkling NV (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir; blend of mostly 2012 vintage plus older wines, 20% of it barrel-fermented and aged 3.5 years on lees): Classic Pirie (a pioneer in Tas and for top bubbly too), superb 'Bolly-style' sparkler with lots of lush toasty flavours yet lovely fresh bite. Expensive but yummy: £34.
Brown Brothers King Valley (Victoria) NV (Pinot Noir Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, 12.5% abv): Toasty and oily with oat-y edges, quite good fizz. €20 (in Ireland).
Jansz Tasmania Premium Cuvée (Chardy/PN, 12% abv): Another Tas classic style, very enjoyable (got the message yet about Tasmanian fizz). €33 Cassidy Wines, £15 to £20 UK.
Croser Non-Vintage Rosé, Adelaide Hills South Australia: a splash of red Pinot Noir wine is also blended into the 2/3 Pinot and 1/3 Chardy base; this has full-on 13.5% abv and 6.5 grams/litre residual sugar, which is about half the amount found in many European so-called Brut styles. In addition to their very tasty regular NV fizz, the famous Croser winery creates this sumptuous rosé with its toasty red fruit flavours and fine crisp balance. £17-£19.
House of Arras Grand Vintage Tasmania Chardonnay Pinot Noir 2008 (12.5% abv): Gorgeous baked brioche and toasted almond notes underpinned by fresh acidity and 'tight' very long finish; Tas 'vintage-Bolly' style! £35 Fine Wine Partners.

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