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30 March 2010

Wolf in sheep's clothing

Or sheep in wolf's clothing perhaps: Wolfberger 2005 Riesling "Grand Cru Ollwiller" to be precise. The "wolf mountain" winery is a brand name coined by the Eguisheim co-op in Alsace, I believe, who make pretty decent and well-priced wines across the board. This one isn't the most exciting Grand Cru Riesling you'll come across from Alsace - they get much better than this, e.g. Clos Sainte Hune from Trimbach is possibly one of the greatest (although not technically a Grand Cru vineyard but who cares) and one of the dearest too at €100+ a bottle (or £65+ / $70-$100), more even for collectable vintages (it ages brilliantly). Anyway, this cheeky little 2005 Wolfie Ries bartered itself off the shelf for €6.99 (LeClerc supermarket, France) and was very palatable, mature and distinctly Riesling-edgy. Nice floral lime touches, plenty of developed oily/petrol notes and texture, fairly soft and delicate finish (and refreshingly 12% too). I had it with a spicy fish risotto, quite good combo actually.

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