Millésime Bio 2005

Here are a few worthwhile bottles gleaned from Millésime Bio, a feet-friendly organic wine show held in Narbonne (Languedoc, France) in January 2005, which include a number of biodynamic producers. As you can see, I was particularly fond of André Kleinknecht's classic Alsace wines...

Domaine de Malavieille - Coteaux du Languedoc
2002 Alliance - Sweet blackcurrant fruit tinged with rustic leather notes, soft yet dry tannins and elegant length. 872001 Permien vieilles vignes (Carignan Grenache Cinsault Mourvèdre Syrah) - rustic and leathery with mint undertones, tight mineral mouthfeel and firm tannins but plenty of nice fruit. 90-92

Domaine de Valescure - Languedoc
2003 Chardonnay, Vin de Pays du Gard - Nice elegant apple and white peach fruit style, crisp mineral palate showing subtle concentration. 87+
2004 Gris de Gris rosé, Vin de Pays - Intense berry and dried redcurrant fruit style, lovely crisp length and delicate concentration. 87+

Domaine des Soulié - Saint-Chinian
2001 Ch. Soulié des Joncs - minty blackcurrant notes lead to smokier palate, shows nice fruit and grip with spicy finish. 87-89

Le Petit Domaine de Gimios - St. Jean de Minervois
Rouge de Causse vieilles vignes, Vin de Table (Carignan Aramon Grenache Cinsault Alicante) - actually 2003 vintage but she's not interested in AOC rules, also doesn't use sulphur or SO2 anywhere. 'Sweet' liquorice and dark chocolate, dry tannins supported by lovely ripeness; delicious fruit v firm structure, unusual. 88-90
2000 Vin de Liqueur (Muscat petits grains, 115 gr/litre residual sugar) - lovely honey and maturing dried fruits, intense bite v that sweetness, long and refined. 90+

Château Pech-Latt - Corbières
2002 Alix - smoky ripe notes with herbal minty edges, firm framework with good depth of fruit and length. 88-902001 Vieilles Vignes (Carignan, Grenache, Mourvèdre & Syrah) - also smoky with lovely concentration, herbal v rich fruit; soft maturing edges v power and structure. 90-93

André Kleinknecht - Alsace
2002 Auxerrois vieilli en barrique - Toasty but lively blackcurrant leaf fruit, pungent and mineral v fat and creamy, fresh acidity to finish. 89
2002 Gewurztraminer - Lovely pure lychee and rose water style, shows nice bite v perfumed fruit with more elegant and dry finish compared to other Gewurz. 89
2002 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr - Rich and oily but has lovely youthful fruit too, very concentrated leading to tight fine length. 92-94
2002 Muscat - Still very fresh aromas, lively and quite concentrated palate, very dry with subtle acidity v developing fruit. 88-89
2003 Pinot Gris - Not revealing much on the nose at this stage, richer honeysuckle palate with good concentration, tight closed up finish; wait and see. 87-89
2002 Pinot Noir - Attractive perfumed v savoury cherry notes, a touch of tannin with nice fruit and elegant length. 87-89
2003 Riesling - Very floral racy style, chalky lime fruit on a tight palate with refreshing lively finish. 87-89
2002 Riesling Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr - Attractive ripe oily Riesling nose, quite intense citrus and mineral palate set against rounder grapey backdrop, dry finish with subtle acidity and length. Try with scallops in a pepper, herb and pastis sauce. 90-92

Dominique Frey - Alsace
2002 Riesling Vieilles Vignes - Aromatic and zesty v ripe oily fruit, tight bite on its elegant length. 88-90

Domaine Emmanuel Giboulot - Burgundy
2003 Côte de Beaune, La Grande Chatelaine (Chardonnay) - Toasty lactic style, quite rich and concentrated with soft buttery fruit, weighty mouth-feel lacking a bit of fresh bite perhaps, but nice drinking now. 87-89Latest Giboulot wines to follow.

Jean-Claude Rateau - Burgundy
2001 Beaune 1er Cru, les Bressandes - nice 'sweet and savoury' style builds to more austere palate, tight and long turning a touch bitter but should develop and round out... 87-89

Steffens-Kess - Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
2004 Riesling trocken - Lovely elegant clean zesty style, tight steely length v subtle extract. 87-89

Macatela - Castilla
2004 Tempranillo rosado, Vino de la Tierra - Plenty of appealing quaffable strawberry fruit, ripe and juicy finish. 85

Bodegas Lezaun - Navarra
2002 Crianza (Tempranillo Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot) - lively blackcurrant aromas, very firm structure yet has nice depth of fruit too, oak is well done; needs a few months to round out. 87-89

Aroa Vinedos - Navarra
2002 Deierri (Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Tempranillo) - light vanilla aromas backed up by lively fruit and very grippy tannins; nevertheless balanced with quite powerful finish. 87-89

Hochkirch Wines - Victoria (Aus)
2003 Maximus Pinot Noir - attractive smoky 'sweet and savoury' nose, silky and ripe v elegant firm structure. 90-922003 Riesling - zesty limey v ripe grapey fruit, nice extract and concentration v zest and bite. 88-90

Majnoni Guicciardini - Chianti
2001 Riserva - smoky dried red fruits with tobacco tones, pretty firm bite of tannins and acidity but has textured 'sweetness' too; power v finesse on the finish. 88-90

Virtual stealth restaurant Sub Rosa opens in Dundee

Mike Sherwood, who works at Sineann winery in Oregon, and his wife Linda Lausmann, who also works for Rex Hill, have launched a new website featuring a virtual stealth restaurant and underground wine bar in Dundee, Oregon (not Scotland). Mike explains: "Sub Rosa started out as an HTML exercise that got out of hand. You have heard of fantasy sports teams. This is my fantasy restaurant, but the celebrity chef is my wife. This is merely a tongue and cheek snapshot of our lives. The food we like. The music we listen to. The wine we drink." Check it out at www.subrosa.arbre.us - it's fun, a bit different and very hush-hush...

Portugal: Cortes de Cima wines & olive oil

Cortes de Cima olive oil
from www.cortesdecima.pt

Many Mediterranean wine estates also produce high quality olive oils. Cortes de Cima, found in Vidigueira in Portugal's sweeping Alentejo region, released this delicious olive oil at the end of 2004: see notes below. Plus a handful of their red wines tasted on various occasions; and they also grow and make rather nice kiln-dried tomatoes by the way...

2003 Azeite Virgem Extra - made from Cobrancosa olives, cold pressed and unfiltered. Deliciously fresh, herby and nutty with zingy green fruit; lighter, tarter (acidity is 0.2% if that means anything to you) and more elegant than other Portuguese olive oils I've tried, which can be quite earthy and rich, I like the delicate fruitiness of this one. Tasted 2004-2005. 90

Another great olive oil producer: Chateau de Caladroy in the Roussillon.

Originally archived under Previous wines of the moment: tasted December 2003 - January 2004

2001 Cortes de Cima Reserva Alentejo DOC (Aragones Syrah/Shiraz) - Pretty serious wine showing nice mix of chunky smoky fruit, light oak overtones and full rounded palate; good power and length. 90

2002 Cortes de Cima Incógnito (15% Syrah/Shiraz) - Similar to the Syrah but more concentrated and greater depth of spicy black cherry fruit, chocolate oak backdrop and powerful finish; the alcohol's a bit heavy but this is still good stuff with hearty food. The name comes from the fact that, when they first made this wine, Syrah wasn't officially permitted so they didn't reveal the variety on the label. 88

2002 Cortes de Cima Syrah (14%) - Appealing nose of very ripe black cherries / berries with peppery notes, creamy currant palate, quite full and alcoholic but shows fair depth of nice sweet fruit too; tannins add texture and dryness but are supple and forward. Not so complex yet has a bit of bite and length, drinking now but should improve up to one year in bottle. 87

Lots more Portugal here.

Languedoc wines speak the same language

Here's the original version of my story published on Decanter.com 14/12/2004.

The Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc (CIVL) has revealed plans to promote all the different appellations (AOC) under the one umbrella of ‘Languedoc’, and to work together with other producers to push the idea of ‘South of France’ in export markets. At the AGM held on 3rd December, the CIVL announced details of their marketing strategy for 2005 supported by a budget of €4 million, including a 30% increase in expenditure earmarked for export promotions and advertising. The boldest move is the willingness of the three largest regional associations – the CIVL, the Conseil Interprofessionnel Vins du Roussillon (CIVR) and Vins de Pays d’Oc growers – to pool their ideas and resources. The combined pot for export campaigns comes to €2.7 million. This new found cooperation takes in the ‘Printemps du Languedoc et du Roussillon’ tasting in London on 15th February, mini-fairs in Toronto and Vancouver in May and a joint stand at Germany’s Prowein exhibition.

The “common geographical ground focusing on the south of France” should communicate the diversity of the region’s wines better to the consumer. “The idea is simple,” Rémy Wuatelet, Marketing Director of the CIVL explained. “With intense international competition, we need to offer a complementary range that suits the market and consumer – still wines, varietals, sparkling and sweet – for a winning formula.” Individual Languedoc AOCs include traditional red blends such as Fitou and Corbières; the ‘cru’ subregions of Minervois la Livinière and Pic Saint Loup; dry whites Picpoul de Pinet and Clairette, Limoux sparkling wines and a variety of fortified Muscats. These will be marketed alongside Vins de Pays ‘cépages’ such as Syrah, Chardonnay and Grenache, and Côtes du Roussillon wines.

Michel Laroche, who already labels his varietal wines ‘South of France’, agrees working together “is fundamental; there’s too much complexity and we need to simplify things. South of France is more abstract yet means more.” Putting Languedoc in the spotlight also fits in with plans to launch an inter-regional AOC, which are awaiting approval from the INAO. The ad campaign in English centres on the Languedoc cross logo, which appears on specially embossed bottles, and the catchphrase ‘Fine French Mediterranean wines’. In addition, a ‘destinations’ theme links wine routes to tourism. Exports of Languedoc-Roussillon wines for the first eight months of 2004 were down 7% in volume and 3% in value. However, Canada, Japan and the US show positive trends outperforming all other countries, albeit from a smaller base.

Fête des Vignes, Montpellier 2004

Discover 18 worthwhile wines tasted at the first "Fête des Vignes de Montpellier Agglomération" (that's like the 'Greater Montpellier' area). While in town on a gloriously sunny, early December afternoon, I stumbled across this local fair ("for local people") in the elegant imperial Place de la Comédie. The wine capital of the South is literally surrounded by vines (although it probably shouldn't be given the location of certain vineyards) - all of the growers mentioned here are on the Montpellier wine route. This is Coteaux du Languedoc country taking in individual areas such as Grés de Montpellier and Pic Saint-Loup, as well as attractive vins de pays varietals too. Plus a few dry and sweet guest Muscats thrown in...

Domaine de Piquet, Confidence NV sparkling wine - Quite fine nose displaying light toasty notes, crisp v milky palate finishing with subtle yeasty touches. A surprise. 87

Domaine de Causse
2001 Cabernet/Merlot, vin de pays d'Oc - Lovely cassis fruit with rustic notes, tangy leafy edges too but it's ripe and rounded with a bit of bite and good length. 89
2003 Muscat, vin de pays d'Oc (Muscat à Petits Grains) - Aromatic dry and fruity, fairly fleshy style yet elegant and grapey, showing good depth of fruit.85+

Domaine de Rieucoulon
2003 Carignan rosé, vin de pays Collines de la Moure - Crisp dry and tight in the mouth set against nice elegant fruit and style. 85
2003 Merlot, vin de pays d'Oc - Impressive depth of plummy fruit tinged with leafy notes, quite weighty and concentrated within a firm framework. €5 87

Domaine de Terre Megere, 2001 'Clapas' Grés de Montpellier (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre) - A touch 'reductive' on the nose (ever so slightly vegetal) but this disappears into the smoky plummy whole, with lightly herbal edges; richer riper palate, very firm and stonky finish. 87+

Château de Fourques, 2001 Coteaux du Languedoc (Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault) - Minty blackcurrant and cherry aromas, nice tangy fruit, firm tannins but ripe and textured. 85+

Château de Flaugergues, 2002 Cuvée Sommelière Grés de Montpellier (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre) - Firm tannins and tight structure with long finish; not revealing much at the moment so difficult to say. €9 87

Latest wines and profile here (June 2011).

Le Chemin des Rêves, La Première Cuvée (Syrah, Carignan, Grenache) - Benoît Viot made this as vin de table because he felt like it: Soft fruity cherry notes showing elegant depth, fairly light yet quite long and attractive with it. 84+

Vignobles Baron de la Liquisse
2000 Lion d'Azur Grés de Montpellier (95% Syrah) - Herbal peppery nose leads to delicious black fruit palate, ripe v firm texture with subtle concentration and length. 92
2003 Rosé d'Aurore, Coteaux du Languedoc (Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault) - Attractive style showing elegance yet weight too, lively raspberry fruit then oilier texture on the finish. Drink with grilled red mullet. 85+
2002 Tradition 'Terroir de Verargues', Coteaux du Languedoc (Syrah, Carignan, Grenache) - Soft ripe and smoky with plenty of liquorice and 'sweet' red fruits, supple tannin mouth-feel and lovely mature fruit to finish. 88+

Château de Stony
2002 Lumière d'Automne, vin de pays d'Oc (Muscat à Petits Grains, 14%) - Made with over-ripe grapes in oak casks. Coconut oak notes mingle with quite rich sweetness (50 grams/litre residual sugar), fairly toasty/spicy but underneath it's concentrated, fruity and nicely textured. Unusual, needs time. €13 for 50cl 90
2003 Muscat de Frontignan, Cuvée Sélection de Vendanges (Muscat à Petits Grains, 15%) - Vin Doux Naturel fortified to 15% leaving natural sweetness. Starts with a fair kick of alcohol, but this also has delicious Muscat fruit intensity and sweetness balancing it out. €7.80 89
2003 Muscat Sec, vin de pays d'Oc (Muscat à Petits Grains, 13%) - Perfumed grapey aromas lead to crisp bite on the palate, yet it's soft and elegant too with very dry finish. €4.60 87
Latest Stony here (March 09).

La Magdelaine d'Exindre, 2003 Muscat de Mireval 'Vent d'Anges' (Muscat à Petits Grains, 15%) - Classic style Vin Doux Naturel fortified Muscat with delicious grapey orangey fruit, intense yet elegant sweetness, pretty full-on finish. €10.20 87+

Domaine Desvabre
2003 Pic Saint-Loup Fût de Chêne (Syrah, Grenache) - Spicier and toastier than the 'tradition' below with coconut vanilla edges, quite concentrated and tight with rounded tannins; more 'modern' style but good with it. 89
2003 Pic Saint-Loup Tradition (Syrah, Grenache) - Nice smoky rustic fruit, soft mouth-feel with a touch of dry grip too, finishing with elegance and power combined. 89