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Updated regularly or occasionally as fits the mood, these everyday wines, new
releases and sporadic superstars caught my attention for one reason or another. Not exactly a
wine of the week or month but could be: hopefully more spontaneous than that.
HUNGARY
1999 Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos
Disznókő (11.5%, 12g total acidity, 165g/l
residual sugar) - 99 is rated by Disznókő and others as "the vintage of the decade"
in Tokaj. I first tasted this wine in October 2006 -
click here for the full report on that trip
or here for more Disznókő
wines - and again in February 2009. It obviously has decades left in it yet,
as after re-reading my previous note, the wine hasn't changed much. Still shows
huge amounts of absolutely delicious and lush-textured dried apricot and raisin
fruit with exotic & spicy yet complex & savoury flavours; it's now a touch more
oxidising in style (but not that much) with more apparent toffee and baked nut
(pecan, walnut) notes; and still very intense, very concentrated and very lemony
on the finish with that extraordinary acidity creating a tight framework and
reining in the sweetness. Wow: I should've kept it for longer, then again it
might outlive me and it was a good opportunity to share it.
95-97
SOUTH AFRICA
Winter 2008
2007 The Society's Pinotage, Bon Cap
Organic Wines, Robertson (13.5%) - attractive 'sweet and sour' mix with
crunchy black and red fruits tinged with charred chocolate oak and herbal
undertones; spicy powerful mouth-feel v soft and lightly savoury/gamey, lush v
bitter twist to finish. £6.50 (£78 case of 12). 87+
Wine Society Christmas membership offer.
NEW ZEALAND
Summer 2008
2000 Dry River Estate,
Gewurztraminer no. 1240 (13%) - dark golden colour with
rich mature lychee and marmalade nose, complex and oily too;
sweet-textured and off-dry mouth-feel leading on to still fresh
acidity v nice oily quince fruit; unusual, a kind of mushroomy
intricacy as well (but not corky/mouldy)!
90+
PORTUGAL
February
2008
2005 Quinta de
Vargellas Vintage,
Taylor's – enticing rich blackberry, damson and liquorice
aromas enhanced by spicy alcohol (although not stinging) and
fresh leather tones; pretty full-on lush sweet fruit v
attractively ripe tannins, lending solid framework without any
heavy extraction; submerged alcohol and nice peppery fruit make
it surprisingly approachable now, yet its underlying structure
and concentration indicate 5-10 years cellaring should reveal
more. UK £25 / US $54. 90-92
Croft
Pink
Port,
Fladgate Partnership/Taylor's – OK it's a clever logical stroke
of marketing and looks great, but this 'port', for want of a
better word, is quite
attractive and a bit different; very aromatic red-fruity and rose
petal nose moves onto fruity sweet palate cut nicely by the
alcohol. £10 / $20. 85
CHILE
Spring-Summer 2009
Yali National Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon,
Colchagua Valley (14%) - intriguing slightly reductive herbal notes with lively cassis and light
cinnamon / cedar, turning a touch savoury vs liquoricey vs tart fruit; quite
punchy alcohol with dry yet nicely grained cinnamon / coconut tannins, rounded v
powerful finish. Drinking now although should develop a little in bottle over
the next year. After being open for a day, it gets fruitier and softer although
still a tad clumsy at the end of the day. £6.99 Majestic (UK).
85-87
Winter 2008-2009
2008 Cono Sur Reserva Riesling, Bio Bio
region (13.5%) - attractive white peach and floral lime aromas/flavours, nice
weight and oily texture v crisp citrus and mineral bite, off-dry finish. £5.99
on offer at Tesco (UK). 87+
April 2007
2006 Tacón Alto Chardonnay, Viña Las
Niñas, Colchagua Valley (14.5%) - chocolate oak tones suffused with white
peach and pineapple, cleaner juicy fruit on the palate v toasty backdrop, freshness v
power;
nice with food, a bit heavy on its own. Worth it for the camp orange 'shoebox';
at least, if you buy two bottles... I assume this means high heel in Spanish? 87
Feb 2007
2005 Aconcagua Pinot Noir, Viña Carmen
(14%) - seductive 'sweet and savoury' aromas showing herbal red pepper,
raspberry and cherry v complex truffle undertones; ripe v tangy fruit, silky and
maturing yet quite firm and fresh. Good with lamb shank. £7.99 The Vine King,
Reigate (Surrey, England). 88-90
2006 Tesco Finest Sauvignon Blanc,
Viña Ventisquero; Casablanca Valley (14%) - vibrant pure, gooseberry and
citrus fruit with zesty crisp structure; ripe & oily with green edges, juicy
fresh finish. Allegedly half price: not really worth £7.99, obviously great
value at £3.99. 87
AUSTRALIA
Summer-autumn 2008
2006 Howcroft Estate Cabernet Merlot,
Limestone Coast, South Australia (13.5%) - nice cassis, raisin and dried plum
aromas and flavours; quite understated or elegant even, despite having a little
punch, although it's somehow a touch dilute; but it finishes with seductive
maturing sweet v savoury fruit and soft texture. Supposedly half-price at £3.99,
which is definitely great value although it wasn't worth £7.99 in the first
place. Tesco Finest. 87
May 2006
2005 Riesling
Pirie South, Tasmania - tight and floral with zesty mineral underbelly,
light and fine. 89
2005 Chardonnay
Pirie South, Tasmania - delicate creamy tones mix with intricate
green-edged peachy fruit; again tight, steely and fresh.
89
Click here for Pirie's Pinot Noir. More Oz
wines like this please!
ITALY
Spring 2009
2005 Piccini Gran Selezione Oro Chianti Riserva (95%
Sangiovese 5% Merlot
13.5%) - nice
traditional style showing smoky tobacco and fig notes with dried cherries and a
hint of balsamic; quite lush and concentrated, tasty ripe v savoury fruit set on
a touch of firm tannins and fresh acidity, 'sweetness' v spice on its
well-balanced finish. Second day - more of those volatile balsamic notes and
tobacco / leather v 'sweet' and savoury; softer palate, still tasty although
beginning to fade a little. Mature now but it won't drop dead soon. Good with
mushroom, basil and Comté risotto (with some of the wine in it too). Perhaps a
bit dear at £9.99, then again Tesco (UK) is giving it away for a Fiver until
13th May 2009. 87-89
2008 Alta Italia 'Vigneti' Pinot Grigio,
Cavit, Valdadige (12.5%) - attractive
superior PG with lots of honeyed v spicy fruit and zesty gummy mouth-feel, tasty
with slightly oily texture v fresh crisp finish. Better than a lot of PG
sloshing around (and actually tastes like PG), although a bit dear at £7.99
(Tesco). 85+
Summer 2008
2007 Villa Flora Lugana DOC, Zenato (Trebbiano
de Lugana 13%) - quite intricate and concentrated dry white from near
Lake Garda in the north. White nectarine and greengage fruit with
mineral/vegetal fennel-like notes; fairly full and rounded showing maturing
fruit flavours yet still quite lively and refreshing on the finish too. Waitrose
£6.99. 87+
April 2006
2003 Barbera d'Alba superiore Bricco Airoli, Giovanni Viberti,
Piemonte (northwest) (13%) - first rate example of new wave Barbera:
pretty dense and chunky with attractive earthy plum fruit, shows some firmness
and fresh acidity nicely rounded out by subtle background oak on its long
finish. 90+
March 06
2004 Pinot Grigio, Tenuta Ca' Vescovo, Friuli Aquileia
(northeast) (12%) -
juicy spiced honey fruit with oily mineral notes, quite richly textured
mouth-feel and still showing nice freshness on the finish. €5
85+
FRANCE
Winter / spring 2009
2004 Faugères rouge,
Château
Haut
Fabrègues (Grenache Mourvèdre Syrah
13.5%) - smoky maturing nose showing 'sweet' black fruits & damsons with shades of
leather, liquorice and baked wild herbs too; quite rustic and 'inky' but it's nicely thick-textured with dense fruit
and quite dry yet softening tannins; attractive drinking now, probably at its
best although not lacking in substance and raw character. €5.50
87+
More Saur family wines here.
2001 Corbières rouge,
Domaine de la Grange - complex and smoky
with herbal dried fruits, roast beef and black olives too; quite concentrated
and tasty with savoury leather notes, still slightly firm tannins v 'sweet'
mature fruit, nice liquorice v meaty gravy finish. Drinking very nicely now
although it's not going to die tomorrow. €6 Cave de St-Guilhem in Cabestany (nr.
Perpignan), tasted Feb. 09 at
Domaine Treloar's Wine Club. 90+
2008 Côtes du Roussillon rosé,
Dom Brial / Cave de
Baixas (Syrah Grenache 13%) - classic
storming Roussillon rosé style, deep coloured with a light touch of tannin
adding dry texture; 'winey' aromatic and crunchy red fruits with rose petal
edges, juicy and zingy with chunky fruity mouth-feel and full dry finish. Nice
foodie (e.g. hake fillet in Provencal sauce). €4.19 87+
2007 Chablis, Simonnet-Febvre
(Chardonnay 12.5%) - you know how sometimes you
really fancy a nice Chablis but are then disappointed having splashed out a
little? Well, you won't be with this one. All the hallmarks which make that
classic Chablis style so distinctive - attractive subtle balance of slightly
exotic, buttery fruit v elusive greener, citrus mineral edges; elegant and tasty
with fresh acidity lifting it up on the finish, making it good with smoked
haddock even. €8 89
More Simonnet-Febvre wines
here.
Winter 2008
2007 Les Champs Bordelais Sauvignon Blanc,
Guy Anderson Wines /
Vignerons de Tutiac (12.5%) - quite intense gooseberry,
blackcurrant and citrus aromas; lively crisp mouth-feel, fairly concentrated and
oily textured v dry mineral bite. Nice mouthful of flavour, although coming back
to it the next day, the fruit's just beginning to fade a little; so drink it up
over Christmas & New Year (which shouldn't be too difficult, in moderation of
course!). £5.99 Asda - on offer for £5 until 24th December.
87
2006 Cuvée des Hospices Catalans Côtes du Roussillon Villages,
Guy Anderson Wines /
Domaine Cazes (Carignan Grenache
Syrah 14.5%) - attractive fragrant black cherry, cassis and blueberry
with liquorice overtones and lightly earthy/peppery notes; punchy palate with
lively juicy fruit v light bitter chocolate tannins adding a bit of grip,
otherwise it's quite soft with a warming finish. Gets smoother and richer with
24 hours airing and less earthy / peppery. Nice with lamb steak or roasted
Mediterranean vegetables; and even a chunky piece of fresh, pepper-crusted tuna.
£8.99 Thresher - buy 2 get the 3rd free (= £5.99). 87-89
Autumn 2008
2007 Côtes du Roussillon blanc,
Mas Llaro / Maison Lafage (13%) - nice
dry white with a bit of character and weight too: floral nutty notes v oilier
texture, still quite fresh. €3.20 83-85
More Lafage here.
2007 Côtes du Roussillon rouge,
Domaine de la Chique /
Hervé Bizeul & Associés
(Grenache Carignan 13.5%) - countersigned by Mr.
Clos des Fées himself,
this is well-made and tasty with plenty of ripe black fruits with dark
chocolate, fig and coffee undertones; fair weight and grip but nice fruity
drinking at the same time. €4.95 87
2007 Collioure Tradition: Jacques Py,
Domaine de la Marquise (14%) - spicy vibrant
and floral black fruits with liquorice, light leather notes and dark chocolate
edges; big powerful mouthful with nice depth and style, dry v ripe tannins /
texture, 'sweet' v savoury touches; not so subtle perhaps but I like its
immediate fruit and chunky structure. €6 89
2006 Wolfberger Riesling Alsace,
Cave d'Eguisheim (a co-op partnership in
fact, more info @
www.wolfberger.com) 12% - pretty typical delicate dry Riesling style: zesty
and mineral v floral linseed oil and citrus notes; dry and crisp with attractive
oily chalky texture. Bargain €3.99. 87
2005 Riesling Alsace;
Domaine Les Grès d'Or, Maurice Gaering (12.5%) - more complex and
stylish with maturing linseed oil aromas and texture, elegant flowery tropical
lime fruit with fresh intensity and length. Bargain €4.37.
89
Summer+ 2008
2007 Le Rosé de Terrassous Côtes du Roussillon,
Les Vignerons de Terrats (13%) - fairly
chunky red fruity style with nice food-demanding weight, turning rounded and
slick with underlying wild red fruit and biscuit notes; still alive and well. €4
87
2007 Ressac Viognier Vin de Pays d'Oc,
Cave de Florensac (12.5%) - attractively
lively and aromatic still with lightly exotic apricot and citrus fruits; oily v
juicy mouth-feel, a lighter style of Viognier with nice fruit; went well with a
fish Jalfezi curry. €4.99. 85+
2005
Cuvée Prestige Bordeaux Supérieur, Château de La
Ligne (Merlot Cabernets 12.5%) - attractive cassis and plum with light red
pepper edged with smoky, chocolatey & cedary oak; quite dense and
concentrated with dry textured tannins, medium weight, nice bite & length. Quite
oaky at first but the wine has good depth of fruit and that oak lifts off a little with air,
revealing some tangier fruit, coated tannins and underlying fresh acidity. After
one day open, it gets fruitier and more interesting; a good match for boudin
noir (black pudding)! €7 ex-cellar. 89
More info on La Ligne here.
Spring - summer 2008
2007 Trémoine de Rasiguères rosé, Côtes du Roussillon (14%) -
nearer red
than rosé in colour, this has chunky aromatic & spicy raspberry/strawberry/cherry fruit
with lovely oily texture, pretty potent alcohol yet fresh dry finish too.
Serious quintessential Roussillon foodie rosé, it went well with two different
restaurant duck dishes; also try with anchovies, grilled Med veggies etc.
87+
2005 Cahors Tradition,
Château de Gaudou (80% Malbec plus
Merlot & Tannat 13%) -
a bit closed and stalky (although the cork smelt a bit dusty but the wine didn't
seem corked?) to start, becoming more rustic/savoury with a bit of air and
revealing plum red/blackcurrant and cherry fruit; subtle concentration and
weight v firm yet textured tannins, fresh aromatic finish v chunky and dry with
a touch of 'sweetness' v savoury soy sauce flavours too. €5.50
87-89
More Cahors wines below.
Winter 2007/08
2005 Les Serrottes, Vin de Pays d'Oc: La Grange
de Quatre Sous (Hildegard Horat-Diop) - very appealing mix of cassis
(I think there's some Cab Sauv in it), black cherry, light liquorice and earthy
smoky undertones; concentrated and lush palate v firm tannins and commanding
mouth-feel (14.5%), tight but not rigid finish with nice coating of fruit v dry
grip. Thanks to Isabelle Champart
for giving me this bottle and thereby helping discover this new (?) estate. More
wines and info to follow hopefully... 88-90
Summer/autumn 2007
2005 Caramany Sélection Vieilles Vignes, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, les
Vignerons de Cassagnes-Bélesta (14.5%) - light coconut and cinnamon toasted
notes v floral dark cherries and liquorice; powerful, firm and dry palate v lush
fruit with dark chocolate twist. A little clumsy perhaps, but a good mouthful of
wine for €5. 87
2006 Le Rosé de Terrassous, Côtes du Roussillon,
les Vignerons de Terrats (13%) - lively raspberry fruit and full body v elegant,
fresh and attractive style. €3-€4
87
2005 Cahors,
Château de Grezels (Malbec Merlot 13%) - needed
an hour's aeration to open up the aromas and firm tannins, otherwise shows nice
mix of crunchy red/black fruits and lightly leafy intricacy. €4-€5
85
Tête de Cuvée Crémant de Limoux, Marquis de Dompey (AKA Divin'Aude, 12.5%) -
inconsistency on the cork front - some bottles slightly musty - but when it's
right, this is great value for €3.49 (good old Lidl): attractive creamy yeasty
apple and pineapple flavours dissolve into its frothy, invigorating and off-dry
whole. 87
2005 Sélection des Vignerons de Maury, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Syrah Grenache Carignan
13%) - nice vibrant spicy perfumed black cherry and liquorice aromas lead on to
a juicy smoky palate v solid dry grip; good balance between power and quite fine
finish. Went down well with fillet steak. €3.50-€4
87-89
2004 Cuvée des Fontanilles Fitou, Domaine du Capitat (13%) - quite rustic
and leathery but has nice fruit and grip underneath, then a more elegant finish
than it first suggests. €4 83-85
2006 Côtes du Roussillon
rosé, Cave des Vignerons de Lesquerde (Syrah Grenache
Cinsault Carignan 13%) - pretty typical Roussillon rosé style with plenty
of red fruits v zesty dry finish. €3.50 85
2006 Arnaud de Villeneuve
vieilles vignes blanc, Côtes du Roussillon (Macabeu Grenache Blanc
Malvoisie 13%) - surprisingly nice, dry white wine offering all the zingy
freshness you'd want in one mouthful (although it loses its appeal slightly if
served anything but cold); coupled with fairly weighty, oily texture.
83-85
April 2007
2006 Minervois blanc, Jean d'Alibert, Languedoc (Grenache Blanc
Marsanne
13%, screwcap) - attractive mix of zesty citrus
and honeyed roundness, zingy crisp and mineral v fatter texture too. Under
€3 87
2002 Fronton rouge, Comte de Négret (Négrette
12%) - this is a rare local variety from the southwest; mature savoury fruit,
soy & plum, sun-dried tomato v leather and tobacco, light dry grip. Good with
rabbit stew. €3.50 87
March 2007
2006 Rasiguères rosé, Vignerons Catalans; Côtes du Roussillon
(13.5%) - the latest vintage of this serious rosé doesn't disappoint: deep
pink/light cherry colour, youthful fresh and lively with subtle rose petal and
morello cherry tones; very zingy with crisp bite and tight length, citrus v red
fruit weight v lively finish. Needs a couple of months to fill out. Try with
prawn and spinach madras. €4.50 87-89
2005 Le Passé Authentique, Cave de Plaimont; Côte de
St-Mont - this reliable producer in the southwest knows how to make interesting
dry white wine from local varieties such as Petit
and Gros Manseng: steely mineral & celeriac
intensity v concentrated creamy depth of fruit, fresh bite and length v maturing
complexity. €5 87-89
Feb 2007
1999 Margaux,
Château Rauzan-Gassies, 2nd Cru Classé (12.5%) - smoky developing nose
with complex leaf and tobacco notes; medium full with subtle concentration and
not so firm tannins, quite elegant with more charm than some 99 Médoc (although
Margaux was more successful this vintage, it appears). Opened by an old
friend, actually drinking quite well now and over the next couple of years or
so. 90
January 2007
2005 Chablis, Domaine Côte Marjac (Chardonnay,
12.5%) - very drinkable, classic style Chabbers: nice aromatic white peach and
citrus notes, fresh lively palate turning subtly creamy and full v tight mineral
acidity. Looks like Brocard under a different name. €7 87-90
2002 Tradition Côtes du Roussillon,
Château las Collas (13.5%) - attractive raisin and fig fruit edged with
earthy maturing notes and tangier purple plum; quite concentrated and rich v
extracted coating of dry tannins, good depth and balance for a 2002 (lesser
vintage in the south), still grippy yet has plenty of ripeness and earthy
developed fruit. Good with spicy Turkish sausages (beef and mustard). €6
87-90
November-December 2006
2004 Merlot, Vignobles de Carsac,
vin de pays d'Oc (13.5%) - smoky plummy fruit set against light toasty
notes, full and quite lush yet has attractive bitter twist too.
85+
2004 Riesling Steinweg, Jean Geiler -
Cave d'Ingersheim, Alsace (12.5%) - elegant perfumed style with oily mineral
backdrop, a touch of richness v celery notes and nice acidity.
87+
2005 Chinon, Domaine de la Semellerie (Cabernet
Franc, 12.5%) - good example of this under-appreciated style from a ripe
year in the Loire Valley: rounded yet crunchy blueberry fruit v intricate savoury flavours and subtle tannins/acidity.
87
2005 Saumur blanc, Les Besseries (Chenin Blanc)
- zesty fresh melon fruit and mineral acid intensity, lovely roundness and ripe
mouth-feel v crisp length. Under €4 89
2004 La Roque, Domaine la Pléiade, Côtes du Roussillon Villages (Syrah Grenache Carignan,
13.5%) - attractive black cherry and liquorice fruit with light leather and
cedar, plummy and quite lush mouth-feel v dry firm finish. Bargain at €3:
87+
xx
2004 Gewurztraminer, Dopff au Moulin, Alsace (13%) - classy Gewurz, much
zestier and drier than many; aromatic rose water notes lead to quite
concentrated yet elegant flavours, nice length and style. Under €5 in Auchan,
must be a mistake... 89
2000
Côtes du Roussillon, Domaine de l'Auris (mostly Syrah,
12.5%) - attractive traditional style with maturing, earthy leather notes and
minty cassis; dried black cherry fruit turning savoury on a fairly elegant
palate, light dry tannin on the finish. €4 87
September-October 06
2004 Picpoul de Pinet, Mas Puech,
Languedoc (12.5%) - delicious complex dry white, zesty v oily & concentrated
with long mineral finish. 87+
2005 Dom Brial rosé, Côtes du Roussillon (Syrah Grenache,
13.5%) - textbook weightier Roussillon rosé with big fruit and texture yet fresh
crisp finish. 87+
2004
Gewurztraminer Sélection,
Cave de Turckheim, Alsace (13.5%) - intense classic Gewurz, exotic honey
and spice with fragrant lychees; pretty concentrated, rich and oily v fresher
off-dry finish. Nice with curry. €5.70 87
2005 Latour de France Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Domaine Bousquet
(Syrah Carignan, 13.5%) - youthful purple with
fresh floral black cherry fruit, up-front and attractive; juicy fruit & soft
mouth-feel v light tannin texture, drinking well already but worth keeping for a
year. Great value at €3.75: 87
2005 Caramany Côtes du Roussillon Villages, les Vignerons
Catalans (Syrah Carignan Grenache, 13%) - deep
purple ("smoke on the water...") black colour, very fruity with white pepper and
earthy notes, very light oak backdrop; fairly rich and ripe black & red fruits,
firm tight & elegant finish. 87+
2003 Cuvée des Presbytes, Caramany Côtes du Roussillon Villages;
Vignerons de Cassagnes-Bélesta - lovely peppery pure blackberry/cherry
fruit, quite rich and rounded with tobacco edges and dry grip; well-balanced
attractive wine. €10 for half bottle in a restaurant:
87-89
2006
Primeur Catalan Syrah-Merlot,
vin de
pays d'Oc (13%) - pleasant enough, Beaujolais nouveau type - but with more oomph
- fruity quaffer; not really my taste, I prefer the white below.
75-80
2006 Primeur Catalan Muscat-Viognier,
vin de
pays d'Oc (13%) - the latest funkily packaged release from those cunning Vignerons
Catalans is very floral and zingy with nice grapey apricot notes, crisp and
refreshing; drink it cold "juste comme ça," as the French might say...
83-85
2005 Chardonnay, Mas Sauvy, Vin de
Pays d'Oc (13%) - expressive tasty Chardy with plenty of peach and pear fruit,
lightly buttery then fresh and crisp. €5.50 87+
July-August 06
2005 Vin Gris du Maroc, Domaine de Sahari,
Guerrouane AOC (13.5%) - attractive elegant juicy fruit, generous palate v crisp
and dry, ripe & full v restrained style. 87
2005 Côtes de Saint-Mont blanc, Vignoble de
Gascogne (Gros Manseng Petit
Manseng Arrufiac Petit
Courbu 13%) - refreshingly different dry white offering kiwis and
gooseberries filled out by fatter creamy flavours, quite weighty then fresh
mineral finish. €3 85-87
2005
Le Pot rosé, Dom Brial/Vignerons de Baixas, Vin de Pays
d'Oc (Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon
12.5%) - the 05 is up to the usual standard: lots of raspberry and
redcurrant fruit, quite weighty and concentrated finishing zesty and dry.
€3.50
87
2005
Côtes du Rhône rosé, Château Plau (13%) -
attractive creamy red fruits and spice style, fair mouthful with full dry
food-demanding finish. 85-87
2005
Côtes du Rhône rosé, Château Joanny (Cinsault Grenache
Mourvèdre 13%) - similar to above but a little
finer and more intense. 87
2004 Saumur blanc, Les Besseries - very appealing style worth seeking out
if you're bored of Chardy etc. Subtle mouth-coating honeyed fruit gives way to
aromatic celery and white pepper minerality with dry-ish bite.
87
2001
Côtes du Roussillon rouge, Domaine du Mas Alart (13%) - complex
maturing meaty tones layered on liquorice and red pepper fruit, soft and ready
to drink with a little dry tannin left to finish. Approx €4.50
89
Fruité Salvat - bright funky easy-drinking range from
Domaine Salvat in the Fenouillèdes
region, Roussillon: 2005 red, white and rosé
Vins de Pays, well made straightforward enjoyment wines. €2.70
80-85
2004 Chablis les Manants, Brocard (Chardonnay
12.5%) - exemplary style showing elegant ripeness and creaminess v restrained
green fruit and mineral edges. €7 89
2005
Rosé de la Chevalière, Laroche, Vin de Pays
d'Oc (12.5%) - sunny and fruity v fresher zingy tones, easy-drinking and good
with simple food. 85
May-June 06
2005
Le Rosé de Terrassous, Cave de Terrats, Côtes du Roussillon
(French Catalonia) - fresh aromatic roses and red fruits, tight elegant palate,
zesty and dry. €3.82 Auchan 87+
2005 Chasse du Pape Syrah rosé,
Gabriel
Meffre, Vin de Pays d'Oc (12.5%) -
attractive red-leaning style, medium weight v zingy very dry finish. £4.99 Asda
& Sainsbury's (on offer at £3.99
from 21st June to 18th July
at JS) 85+
2005 Côtes de Saint-Mont rosé, Vignoble de
Gascogne (12.5%) - deliciously lively rosé from the southwest: fresh raspberry
and redcurrant tanginess v lightly creamy rounded mouthfeel, then crisp and dry
finish. €3 85-87
2005 Fronton rosé, Comte de Négret (Négrette,
12%) - also from the southwest (Négrette is rare local variety by the way),
similar style to the above with deeper colour and fresher bite v nice fruit.
€3-3.50 87
2005 Rasiguères rosé, Vignerons
de Planèzes-Rasiguères, Côtes du Roussillon (13.5%) -
serious and chunky, aromatic rich fruit with fresh acidity and touch of dry
tannin, weighty and long; food rosé. €4.50 89
2005 Alsace Pinot Noir, Jean Biecher - perfumed raspberry fruit with a
more savoury tangy palate, zesty and refreshing with light tannins. €3 Lidl
85+
2005 Coteaux Varois en Provence rosé,
Château de l'Escarelle (12.5%) - just pink salmon colour, refreshing elegant
style with zingy juicy fruit and nice intensity. 87
April 06
2003 Latour de France, Vignerons Catalans, Côtes du Roussillon
Villages (Grenache & Syrah,
13%) - nice example of rich smoky liquorice Grenache with a bit of Syrah
perfume and dry grip, quite powerful yet fairly soft too. €4.60
85-87
1991 Cuvée Fernand Vaquer red, Frédérique et Bernard Vaquer, Vin de
Pays Catalan (Carignan Grenache 13%) - mature smoky nose with seductive fig and savoury
notes, soft ripe fruit and tannins, still showing elegant concentration
and signs of life; drinking nicely now but won't do it any harm by
keeping for another 1-2 years even. €10-12 90+
2005 Minervois blanc, Jean d'Alibert, Languedoc (Grenache Blanc,
Bourboulenc & Roussanne,
12.5%) - attractive perfumed citrus and white peach aromas and flavours,
zesty floral and crisp with lively finish. Screw capped (still rare in France),
very good value. €2.50 85-87
February 06
2004 Fronton rosé , Château Marguerite,
the southwest (Négrette &
Syrah, 12.5%) - bags of
sumptuous red fruits on nose and palate, good concentration and tighter crisper
finish than you might first expect. €3 87
2004 Trémoine de Rasiguères rosé, Vignerons
de Planèzes-Rasiguères, Côtes du Roussillon (13%) - redder
than rosé with full bodied spiced strawberry fruit, shows a tad of dry grip too;
a food rosé rather than a quaffer, try with sardines or anchovies. €5
85
2004 Muscat d'Alexandrie sec, Domaine Rossignol, Vin
de Pays d'Oc (Muscat, 13%) - yet another exciting
example (see below) of a dry, crisp and mineral Muscat; this one is quite
concentrated too with good length, try with Thai food. €4
89
December 05 - January 06
2005 Blanc de Blancs de Terrassous,
Vignerons de Terrats (Grenache Blanc Vermentino
Macabeo 13%) - tight and steely at this stage, subtle zesty intensity v
attractive oily nutty tones, crisp and dry. 88
2005 Muscat Sec, René Sahonet, Vin de Pays Côtes Catalanes (Muscat, 12.5%)
- sound example of this crisp dry style that Roussillon growers are proving very
good at; lots of fresh aromatic grapey Muscat fruit, also shows a bit of bite
and bitter orange characters on the finish. €3.75 87
2005 Le Primeur Dry Muscat Sec, Dom Brial/Vignerons de Baixas, Vin
de Pays d'Oc (Muscat, 13%) - located up the road up bit from the above, shows similar
approach and intensity, perhaps a little more
concentrated and classy. €4 88
2004 Le Pot rosé, Dom Brial/Vignerons de Baixas, Vin de Pays
d'Oc (Syrah & Cabernet Sauvignon) - attractive compote of raspberry and
redcurrant fruit, quite weighty mouthfeel, finishing crisper and dry.
€3.50
87
2003 Riesling cuvée prestige, Rebmann, Alsace (Riesling, 12%) -
perfumed white peach and lime blossom, fairly soft palate with subtle mineral
depth and off-dry finish. €5.40 87
2003 Chablis La Paulière, Jean Durup et Fils (Chardonnay, 12.5%) -
classic style and class, offering elegantly rounded, buttery and creamy fruit
tempered by fresh mineral bite and length. €8.50
90
2003 Chablis, Domaine Dauvissat (Chardonnay, 12.5%) - a touch leaner and
less weighty than the above; however, still a nice example of what you'd expect
from Chablis at a very good price. €4.99
85
2003 Vacqueyras 'Vicomte de Lignac', Caves du Fournalet, southern Rhône
(Grenache, Syrah &
Mourvèdre, 13.5%) - attractive warm, ripe and spicy black
fruits and liquorice with background leathery, rustic touches; big yet
restrained mouthful, dry rounded tannins. €5.25
87
2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Domaine de Vézian, Vin de Pays Côtes Catalanes (Cabernet
Sauvignon, 12.5%) - pretty chunky and earthy blackcurrant/cherry fruit
wrapped in quite firm tannins, perhaps a touch unripe in the end but still has
some charm. €3-4 85
2004 'Les Vieilles Vignes' Côtes du Rhône, Cave de Sablet (Grenache
& Syrah, 14%) - well made modern cooperative
CdR i.e. pure, floral and spicy black cherry fruit, juicy palate with nice
tannins and warmth to finish. 87
2004 Minervois blanc, Château d'Agel, Languedoc (Macabeu
& Muscat, 13%) - a pleasant surprise, given that
Minervois isn't famous for whites: fairly rich oily textured palate balanced by
lively aromatic fruit. €3-4 88
2004 Côtes du Roussillon Villages, Mas Jaume (Carignan,
Grenache &
Syrah, 14%) - upfront chunky black cherry, raisin
and wild herbs; quite big in the mouth yet ends up softer and rounded.
€3-4 87
2004 'Fenouill' rosé, Domaine Salvat, Vin de Pays Côtes Catalanes
(Syrah & Cabernet Sauvignon,
12.5%) - jammy ripe raspberry and strawberry fruit; juicy, rounded and dry
finish. €3.50 85
Bordes rosé, Olivier & Roland Gessier,
Vin de Pays Gascogne (12%) - easy drinking style with floral 'sweet' raspberry
fruit then crisp tangy length. 85
SPAIN
Winter 2008
Gran Familia Rioja, Rioja Alta, Guy Anderson
Wines / Bodegas Castillo de Fuenmayor
(Tempranillo Graciano 12.5%) - pretty oaky nose to
start but it does have that silky mulled fruit Rioja style, with smoky cassis
and raspberry notes; dry coating of tannins v spicy 'sweetness', quite
attractive balance and style in the end (despite that initial, somewhat unsubtle
oaky texture and flavour). £5.49 Tesco, Sainsbury's, Thresher, Co-op, Asda, Wine
Cellar. 87
Autumn 2008
2007 Pampano Inspiración Verdejo,
Agricola Castellana, Rueda (12.5%) - nice
depth of aromatic citrus fruit bolstered by intricate yeast-lees undertones,
oily honeyed texture v still quite fresh and lively finish. Value: €3.
87
Spring - Summer 2008
2007 Marfil rosat, Alella Vinicola (Garnacha
Merlot Syrah Cabernet
13%)
- attractively full and red-fruity style rosé with juicy
oily texture and dry finish. €5 85+
Try their Cavas.
2007 Cune 'Monopole' Rioja blanco (mostly Viura
12.5%) - aromatic floral and lightly peachy with subtle yeast-lees notes, quite
full and rounded v very dry crisp finish; shows nice depth and style. On offer
€4.55. 87+
2007 René Barbier Tradición Penedès
rosado (Garnacha Tempranillo Carinena
12.5%) - the new vintage isn't a disappointment, in fact it's fuller and
fruitier than before even with plenty of ripe red fruits then finishing with
dry, lightly bitter twist. Under €3.
85
Winter
collection 2007/2008
2003
Hacienda López de Haro,
Rioja Crianza (Tempranillo
Garnacha Graciano 13%) -
aged in 50-50 American & French oak for 18 months. Pretty
classic style creatively mixing light smoky-sweet oak with
aromatic ripe red fruits, silky tannins on a fairly mature
framework. Bargain at €3.60.
87-89
2002
Faustino Selección de Familia,
Rioja Crianza – seductive perfumed vanilla tones with
maturing fruit smokiness v good weight of raspberry fruit;
concentrated and well-balanced between fruit/age/oak, quite
chunky tannins and still lively acidity on the finish. €5.25
89-91
2006
Bach Viña
Extrísima rosado,
Catalunya (13%) - bags of delicious raspberry and strawberry
fruit; rounded and creamy palate with fresh, dry and quite long
finish. 87-89
2003
Jaume Serra Crianza,
Penedés (Cabernet
Merlot Tempranillo)
– rustic and smoky nose leads on to quite rich depth of
pruney cassis fruit; chunky tannins v maturing leather-tinged
palate, powerful finish with a bitter twist. About €3 87
2006 Albert i Noya Clàssic rosat, Penedés (Pinot
Noir
Merlot 13%, organic) – pretty serious pink wine with chunky yet maturing red fruit
and oily texture v a touch of dry tannin and still quite fresh acidity;
definitely a food rosé. About €5 87
2007 Torres DeCasta rosado,
Catalunya (Garnacha
Carinena 13%) - established
favourite shows no sign of slacking: delicious raspberry and strawberry fruit,
creamy and quite full v intense and fresh. €3.75 87
Summer 2007
2003 Fontal Tempranillo Crianza, Bodegas
Fontana, La Mancha (+ a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah
Merlot 13.5%) - attractive 'modern' style, showing rich vibrant black
cherry/currant and raspberry fruit v chunky dry tannins, and the oak is more
subtle than anticipated adding light coconut edges; extracted fruit and tannins
on the finish v rounded maturing backdrop. €4.50 87
2006 Cuatro Rayas Verdejo,
Agricola Castellana, Rueda (13%) - very lively nose and palate with fresh green
fruit/veg v ripe oily citrus tones, crisp zesty and refreshing length.
87
La Guita Manzanilla, Rainera Perez Marin (15%) - delicious
Fino style but crisper and lighter perhaps, yeasty almond aromas lead to a dry
tangy complex palate. Lovely aperitif and with gazpacho or fish soup.
87+
2006 Sumarroca rosat, Penedés (Pinot Noir Tempranillo Syrah
Merlot 12%) - tasty raspberry and cream aromas and flavours, quite full
and silky with fresh finish. 87
2006 Miquel de March rosado, Mas Oliver
SA, Navarra (12.5%) - similar to above, a little less refined and creamy.
85
2002 Ramón Roqueta Reserva, Catalunya (Tempranillo Cabernet Sauvignon
13%) - attractive mix of smoky maturing savoury notes, background vanilla oak
and 'sweet' berry/currant fruit; rounded and quite full with lightly dry
tannins. €5 87+
Cresta Rosa, Vino de Aguja, Cadelamsa (a pseudonym for
12%) - revitalizing quirky Catalan rosé,
semi-sparkling thanks to a brief second fermentation; baked red fruit cocktail
with fizzy off-dry finish. €3-€3.50 87
Blanc Pescador, Vino de Aguja (11.5%) - this easy-drinking
dry-ish white is made in the same way as the Cresta Rosa above: a bit like less
fizzy Cava (probably from the same varieties) with lightly yeasty apple and
almond notes, sunny and refreshing. Nice with cod roe pâté. €3.20
85
2006 Gran Feudo rosado, Chivite, Navarra (Garnacha
13%) - perennial favourite rosado style, juicy and fat fruit v crisp and dry
finish. €3-€3.50 87+
May 2007
Cava Rosado Brut Reserva, Jaume Serra,
Catalonia (Pinot Noir Trepat 11.5%) - earthy meaty
even with peppery undertones combine with roast almonds and squashed
strawberries; rounded and ripe fruity with tangy rhubarb flavours too, fairly
dry fresh finish. A bit strange but nice with it. €5 87
April 2007
2006
blanc de blancs, Empordà (Macabeu
Garnaxta blanca Chardonnay 13%) - the latest vintage from Perelada
doesn't disappoint with its customary flair for freshness and crisp mineral
intensity, yet subtle weight and concentration too. 87
Sept-Nov 2006
2005
Viña Extrísima rosado,
Bach, Catalunya (13%) - yummy raspberry and strawberry fruit, ripe and
creamy mouth-feel followed by fresh dry finish. 87+
2003 Rioja Gran Familia, Castillo de Fuenmayor/Guy Anderson Wines
(Tempranillo
Graciano,
12.5%) - nice enough Rioja style showing vanilla oak & raspberry fruit, lightly
rustic notes with chunky tannins. UK: £4.99 Sainsbury's, £5.99 or 3 for 2 =
£3.99 at Threshers. 85+
2005 Montesierra rosado, Bodegas Pirineos,
Somontano (Tempranillo Garnacha, 13.5%) - big
creamy rounded palate v complex light red pepper notes, rich red fruit cocktail
v freshness, power and dry finish. 87-89
July-August 2006
2005
Riubal Blanc de Blancs, Penedés (Xarello Parellada
Muscat 11.5%) - delicate lifted and light with
zesty floral fruit, plenty of character and oily roundness despite relatively
low alcohol. €2.50 85+
2005
Riubal Rosat, Penedés (Pinot Noir Tempranillo Syrah
Merlot 12.5%) - delicious strawberry and raspberry flavours, vibrant yet
gently creamy, fresh and dry finish. €2.50 85+
2005 René Barbier
rosado, Penedés (Garnacha Tempranillo Cariñena
12%) - similar style to above, perhaps a little more of the ripe strawberry and
a little less zingy, appealing nevertheless. €2.50
83-85
2005 Conde de Caralt rosado, Catalunya/Catalonia
(Tempranillo Garnacha Cariñena 12%) - and ditto
really, again very nice quaffer without the intensity of the Riubal. Less than
€2.50 83-85
2005 Marqués de Alella white, Catalonia (Pansa
Blanca 11.5%) - lovely white from this little region just down the road
from Barcelona: fragrant yet quite concentrated with white peach and
honeysuckle, zesty crisp bite on the finish. €5 87
May-June 06
2000 Navarra crianza, Señorio de Sarria - very appealing mature smooth
style showing dried fruits, leather and light vanilla oak background.
87+
2005 Navarra rosado, Señorio de Sarria -
classic elegant Navarra rosé offering creamy red fruits and refreshing dry
finish. 85-87
2005 Gran Feudo rosado, Chivite,
Navarra (Garnacha) - up to its usual
classy standard, attractive subtle creamy raspberry fruit then crisp length.
87
April 06
2005 DeCasta rosado, Torres, Catalunya/Catalonia
(Garnacha & Cariñena,
13.5%) - the latest vintage of this benchmark rosé is even better than usual;
serious and weighty, bags of creamy red fruit charm yet fine, dry and fresh
finish. €3.50 87-89
2000 Rioja crianza,
Viña Berceo (12.5%) - appealing nearly mature style, less vanilla oaky
than some Rioja with richer prune fruit, lightly gamey too with dry grip yet
rounded finish. €5-6 87+
2005 rosado, Catalunya/Catalonia
(Garnacha & Tempranillo,
12.5%) - baby sister or brother of below, showing similar attractive raspberry
and redcurrant fruit but with less depth and intensity; light, stylish and
refreshing. €2.50-3 85+
March 06
2005 rosado,
EmpordàCatalonia)
(Garnacha, Cariñena & Tempranillo,
13%) - very youthful and a bit closed up at the moment, scented lightly creamy red fruits and roses
lead to elegant zingy palate, crisp and long. €3-3.50 87-89
2004 Cune
rosado, Rioja (Garnacha,
13%) - stylish rosé with soft creamy summer fruits and fresh delicate finish.
€3.39 87
Castellblanch Cava Brut Zero Reserva (11.5%) - subtle quality fizz
showing apple and biscuit characters, hazelnut oily texture and refreshing
finish. 89
February 06
Cava Brut Nature, Cases Ribalta, Catalonia (Macabeu,
Xarello & Parellada,
11.5%) - elegant fizz with quite intense almond biscuit flavours, lightly oily
texture then fresher finish. €3.50 87
2000 Reserva,
Viña Albali, Valdepeñas (Tempranillo, 13%) -
the Albali gang are very good at these consistently smooth, smoky and
dried-fruity reds with light tannins and a touch of sweet oak. €3
85-87
December 05 - January 06
Thalassa Vi d'Agulla rosat, Bach,
Catalonia (Pinot Noir & Cabernet Sauvignon,
11.5%) - lovely creamy summer fruit pudding, vibrant and elegant, quite dry
finish. 87
2004 Gran Feudo rosado, Chivite,
Navarra (Garnacha, 12.5%) - shows off its usual
elegant style, nice light creamy raspberry fruit leading to crisp subtle length.
87
Fino Quinta, Osborne, Jerez/Sherry (Palomino,
15%) - classic fino with yeasty, roast almond intensity; tangy, crisp and very
dry with long, oily nut finish. €5-6 88
2001 Carta de Oro reserva, Berberana, Rioja (Tempranillo
& Garnacha) - not the best Rioja in the world, but
this smooth, maturing and sweet-textured red hits the spot at the price. €5
85
2004 Blanc de Blancs Seleccio, Riubal, Penedés (Macabeu,
Xarello, Parellada &
Muscat, 11.5%) - dry white that's a bit different
and quite fine too, floral and grapey nose follows through to lightly oily
texture then crisp and fresh bite. €3.50 87
2003 Mayor de Castilla roble, Viña Arnaiz, Ribera del Duero (13.5%) -
Roble means oak by the way, and this attractively spicy red saw 3 months worth;
nice ripe raspberry and blackberry fruit with sufficient grip and well handled
layer of vanilla oak. €3.50 85
Extrisimo Brut Natural Cava, Bach, Catalonia - light and elegant with
underlying oily, nutty and appley characters; fresh, fairly long and crisp
finish. €3 85+ |
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Winery snapshots 1
Burgundy
Winery snaps 2:
SW France Provence
Winery
snaps 3:
South Africa
Lebanon & Austria
Winery snaps 4:
Spain & Portugal
Winery snaps 5:
S &
N America
Winery
snaps 6:
Oz
& New Zealand
Languedoc 1:
Coteaux subzones
Languedoc 2:
Corbières
& Fitou
Languedoc 3:
Faugères Saint-Chinian Minervois
Languedoc 4:
Limoux Malepère Cabardès
Languedoc 5:
Vin de Pays d'Oc
Roussillon French Catalonia
(page 1 of 4)
Over
70 estates &
co-ops "profiled"
(watch out for FBI
serial killers!)
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