"Order my book on the Roussillon wine region (colour paperback) DIRECT FROM ME SAVING £4/€4 (UK & EU only), or Kindle eBook on Amazon UK. Available in the USA from Barnes & Noble in hardcover, paperback or eBook; or Amazon.com. For other countries, tap here." Richard Mark James

06 July 2006

Languedoc: Château de Sérame, Corbières/Minervois

Château de Sérame

"...Delving deeper into the Corbières, this huge region has been witnessing an impressive transformation with several very serious investors on the scene. Château de Sérame is an extensive property straddling both Corbières and Minervois, who went into partnership with Bordeaux magnate Dourthe four years ago. With 120 hectares in production and 10 being replanted every year, “our aim is benchmark wines” commented winemaker Vincent Bernard..." Read the rest of this article for more info (scroll down to OLN 2006).

Tasted July 2006:
2003 Minervois (Syrah Grenache Carignan Mourvèdre) - warm blackberry and liquorice fruit with light toasty oak, slightly 'reductive' tang and complexity; nice soft-ish texture v depth of fruit, weight (13.5%) and chocolate coating; quite big yet the fruit wins the day. 87-89
2004 Minervois (Syrah Grenache Carignan Mourvèdre) - touch more vanilla but also lively floral spice notes; attractive juicy v fresh and tight mouthfeel, enough black cherry fruit to absorb the choco oak; more elegant and perfumed than the 2003. 89+
2004 Corbières (variation of same grapes) - tighter more blackcurranty fruit, again very light oak and reductive notes; nice concentration v firm tannins, elegant and long; needs a little time to express itself. 87-89
2003 L’Icone Corbières - powerful barrel-fermented, limited series red: pretty rich, spicy and toasty nose leads to very concentrated choco palate, sweet fruit v solid rounded mouthfeel, actually 15% but not so obvious. Quite wow Parker-esque style (sorry Robert for that sweeping comment), not sure I'd want to drink more than a glass. 90 (purely as a 'show' wine)


Domaine de Sérame
2005 Merlot Réserve, Vin de pays d'Oc - appealing plum and cherry aromas with very background oak, good varietal character; aromatic v chunky, attractive style. 87-89
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Réserve, Vin de pays d'Oc - quite tangy and tight, perhaps bottle-shocked needing a few months; it does say Cab with less charm than the Merlot, maybe an awkward adolescence...
2005 Viognier Réserve, Vin de pays d'Oc - delicious floral apricot notes, gummy and fresh v fatter 'sweet' fruit, clean long finish. 87-89
2005 Muscat sec Réserve, Vin de pays d'Oc - sexy pure piercing orange peel and grape aromas build to a very zesty palate, 13.5% adds weight yet it's long and fine. 90

Latest vintages tasted here (Corbières report May 2011).


North of Lézignanwww.chateaudeserame.com

30 June 2006

Signature Bio organic wine competition

Signature Bio organic wine competition June 2006


I was Judge Dredd at this organic wine competition held in rather-hot-June at the AIVBLR's HQ (Languedoc-Roussillon organic growers' association, with the very French 'interprofession' word in it), who also organise Millésime Bio trade show where the medal winners are officially honoured. Apart from my pick of the ones I tasted - blind of course, their identity was revealed afterwards - I've also included notes and scores for all the gold-decorated wines. The competition covers the whole of Mediterranean France, so organic growers from Provence and southern Rhône as well as Languedoc-Roussillon. Two things stand out in particular: many of them are under €10 and are vins de pays, which certain people strangely regard as inferior to appellation wines! As for the judging process and results, I think it's worth adding a few candid comments.

The wines were marked out of twenty - 12 to 13 for a Bronze medal (equivalent to 80-84 on the 100 point scale), 14 to 15 for Silver (85-89) and 16 to 20 for Gold (90-100). This seems a little generous to me, and why such a wide band for gold medal? Compare this to the International Wine Challenge, for example: Gold 95-100, Silver 90-94, Bronze 85-89 and Seal of Approval 80-84 (whatever that means). Each wine category was divided into tasting flights by style and vintage (certain judges weren't comfortable with this, as the appellation wines and vins de pays were mixed together; who cares, I say) with a 'possible number of medals' depending on how many wines in each flight, coming to max 29% of 197 samples in total. Is it a good idea to suggest up-front how many medals could/should be awarded? Surely best to let the juries decide which wines are worth what...

In the end, 23% of the wines were given medals including nearly 7% gold (11 plus 2 'highly rated') and more silvers than bronzes. The IWC "rewarded 64% of entries" including the more modest Seal of Approval but only 3% gold medals. I should also add I was frustrated by some of the judges' inability to spot faults. For example, I tasted the gold medal winning Marselan from Dom. de l'Attilon (see below) three times, blind and uncovered, and found excessive reductive/sulphide notes. Admittedly it was a youthful red perhaps only just bottled; this does happen and the off-smells can disappear, but the level here went beyond potential aromatic complexity! Anyway, enough of the maths and chemistry, let's move on to the wines. The panel I was on tasted Provence, southern Rhône and Côte d'Azur reds by the way.

GOLD

Highly rated: 2001 Cuvée des Cadettes Château la Nerthe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape - ripe smoky and oaky on the nose, rich extracted and concentrated with nice dark fruit and rounded tannins; powerful finish but still too much vanilla oak, which by my reckoning leaves it just short of gold. By far the most expensive wine in the show at €56.50. 15 / 87-89
More La Nerthe here.

Highly rated: 2005 Le Sol Blanc Château Veredus, vin de pays (VDP) d'Oc - peachy fruit v good mineral intensity, crisp long finish. Very attractive but not really competition winning wine, although good value at €4. 14.5 / 87
2005 Cuvée Inès Château la Rèze, Minervois - lively citrus fruit edged with intricate yeast-lees notes, very light toast and fatness v crisp length. €6.80 15.5 / 88-90
2005 Cuvée Tradition rosé Domaine des Aspras, Côtes de Provence - classic delicate style, tight zesty and long. €6.50 15 / 87-89
2005 Merlot Domaine des Soulié, VDP des Monts de la Grage - cherry fruit aromas with meaty notes, a bit oxidised; spicy dark fruit palate, quite inky with menthol undertones. €5.50 14.5 / 87
2005 Côtes du Rhône Château les Quatre Filles - rustic spicy nose leads to tight cherry-fruited palate, firm tannins and good length. €5.20 15 / 87-89

2002 Prestige Château Bousquette, Saint Chinian - smoky black fruit notes edged with nice minty spicy chocolate, quite rich mouth-feel with tight firm finish. €8.95 16 / 89-91
2003 La Lignée Julien Mas de Janiny, Coteaux du Languedoc - leather and pepper tones set the scene for ripe liquorice fruit v solid tannins and impressive finish. €11.50 17 / 90-92
2004 Alix Château Pech-Latt, Corbières - the bottle I tasted was faulty, a bit oxidised and dusty? At
Millésime Bio back in January I said this about it: ripe and silky liquorice and herb flavours build to dry grip and elegant length. €18.30 16 / 89-91
2004 Grenache de l'Etoile Domaine de Clairac, VDP de l'Hérault - smoky toasty aromas with very intense cassis fruit, shows good length and balance. €8.50 16 / 89-91
2004 Pioch de l'Oule Domaine Costeplane, VDP d'Oc - quite jammy with oaky background, nice enough but fairly simple. €7.40 14 / 85-87
2005 Marselan Domaine de l'Attilon, VDP des Bouches du Rhône - 1. a bit reductive, spicy cherry fruit but rather over-extracted tannins. 2. similar nose and palate, the fruit's coming through better this time. 3. Sulphide notes still dominate, crisp cassis and cherry fruit, still rather firm yet elegant. €4 13 / 85
2004 Confidentiel Domaine Montirius, Gigondas - blackcurrant & blueberry fruit with savoury backdrop, tight firm palate but elegant too v power. €29 15 / 87-89


SILVER

2004 VDP de Vaucluse Château la Canorgue - shades of meaty complexity, lovely peppery fruit on the palate supported by subtle oak, rich concentrated and powerful. €12 15-16 / 88-90
2003 La Chapelle de Romanin Château Romanin, les Baux-de-Provence - attractive rustic wild herb aromas layered with liquorice, good depth of fruit and balance, ripe v firm; stylish. €9.40 15-16 / 88-90
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Domaine des Beynes, VDP Bouches du Rhône - ripe and smoky with spicy savoury undertones, quite extracted rustic fruit and firm tannins with background oak, muscular finish. €4 13 / 85
2005 VDP Bouches du Rhône Mas du Petit Azégat - herbal slightly reduced yet interesting nose, spicy wild cassis fruit, elegant and unusual although lacks a bit of ripeness. Still, it only costs €2.50. 13.5 / 85


Other SILVER MEDALS I didn't taste:

Domaine du Jas d’Esclans Côtes de Provence Cru Classé Cuvée du Loup Rosé 2005
Château La Nerthe
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Clos de Beauvenir 2003
VDP du Gard Domaine de Tavernel 2005
Domaine de Tavernel VDP du Gard 2005
Minervois Château La Rèze 2004
Clos de Barbéjo
VDP d'Oc
Elégance 2004
Château La Canorgue
VDP de Vaucluse
Viognier 2005
Peter Riegel
VDP du Gard
Le Corbeau Rosé 2005
Château Les Eydins
Côtes du Lubéron
Cuvée des Consuls 2004
Château Les Eydins
Côtes du Lubéron
Fontête 2004
Domaine Siméoni
VDP d'Oc Mourvèdre 2004 - at
Millésime Bio I said this about it: youthful black cherry fruit with earthy peppery notes, nice olive fruit and grip on the finish. 87
Château de Brau
Cabardès
Le Suc de Brau 2002
Château de Brau
VDP Cité de Carcassonne
Méditation Syrah 2004
Les Vignerons de Correns
Côtes de Provence
Croix de Basson Rosé 2005
Domaine Grand Corbière
VDP Sables du Golfe du Lion
Chardonnay 2005
Domaine Grand Corbière
VDP Sables du Golfe du Lion
Gris de Gris Rosé 2005
Château de l’Ou Côtes du Roussillon 2005

BRONZE


Château de Bastet Côtes du Rhône Les Acacias 2005
Domaine Bassac VDP Côtes de Thongue Syrah 2005
Château Sainte-Marguerite Côtes de Provence Grande Réserve Rosé 2005
Domaine de la Grande Pallière Côtes de Provence 2005
Domaine de Clairac VDP d'Oc Réserve de Chasse 2004
Domaine Pastouret Costières de Nîmes 2005
Latest wines and profile on Pastouret: go to Languedoc winery A to Z, right hand column.
Château Bousquette St Chinian Cuvée Pruneyrac 2004
Peter Riegel VDP d'Oc Soliano Merlot 2005
Domaine de la Sauveuse Côtes de Provence Cuvée Philippine 2004
Domaine du Revaou Côtes de Provence 2004
Domaine du Revaou Côtes de Provence Rosé 2005
Les Vignerons de Tornac VDP des Cévennes Rosé 2005

For some reason our panel didn't put through any wines for Bronze, which were deemed to miss Silver medal. Anyway, I thought these deserved it:
2003 Mas de Gourgonnier Réserve du Mas, les Baux-de-Provence - complex earthy medicine notes, maturing spicy fruit turning savoury with balanced dry tannins. We tasted this one twice in fact, so what happened? €8.80 15 / 87-89
2005 Marselan Domaine des Beynes, VDP Bouches du Rhône - better than their Cabernet, in my humble opinion: closed nose, some pure blackcurrant fruit; firm and tight yet has reasonable concentration, more savoury finish. €4 14.5 / 85-87

Click here for a post on Signature Bio 2010.

15 June 2006

Winetourisminfrance.com goes live

Winetourisminfrance.com goes live
A new website dedicated to, erm, all things wine tourism in France has just been launched: click on the title above to check it out. At the moment, the site's just in French but it will soon be available in English (translated by yours truly) and Chinese. Magazine, regional winery and restaurant guide, what's-on, organised tours and tastings, wine books and films... you can plan your trip around where the best vineyards are; find all the useful addresses, phone numbers and websites, and also sign up for their newsletter if you like. More news and information to follow.

06 June 2006

New Zealand: Auntsfield Estate, Marlborough

Auntsfield Estate - Marlborough

Graeme and Linda Cowley are renovating and replanting this vineyard in the upper Wairau Valley, which had been abandoned for 100 years. The fruit for the Sauvignon, International Wine Challenge 2006 gold medal winner, was grown near the earthily named "long cow paddock." The Hawk Hill Pinot is named after "magnificent harrier hawks riding the thermal currents" over Auntsfield’s north-facing slopes, and was awarded two silver medals (IWC and Decanter World Wine Awards 2006). Tasted June 2006:

2005 Long Cow Sauvignon Blanc - lovely classic style capturing the best of Marlborough's climate: purity and intensity of green yet tropical edged fruit, nice elegance and length v concentration and power. 90+
2005 Hawk Hill Pinot Noir - I found this a bit clumsy when first opened with charred oak and high alcohol (at least 14.5% from memory) dominating; the next day it better expressed those hoped-for floral 'sweet and savoury' Pinot characters, which pulled in the reins a little. Perhaps just too young at the moment, but I'd prefer much less toasted new oak a wine like this... 87


Languedoc: Château Coujan, Saint-Chinian

Château Coujan

Florence Guy makes quite a large and varied range at this peaceful estate found a few km out of Murviel-lès-Béziers, on the eastern side of the Saint-Chinian appellation. Her top wines are definitely worth seeking out, e.g. an off-the-wall 100% Mourvèdre that varies in taste-profile according to vintage - sometimes labelled as St-Chinian, sometimes Vin de Pays if ‘non-conformist’ in terms of alcohol or residual sugar content - see below for explanation! Her team also organises walks, wine dinners, summer concerts and art and cookery classes even (the Lebanese food weekend was a big hit apparently). There are also two on-site family gîtes available all year round (see website); it's quite nice just to hang out here sitting outside, and why not try Coujan’s olive oil while you're at it, listening to the roaming peacocks squawking (funny birds aren't they). Wines tasted June 2006:
2005 Rolle, Vin de Pays Coteaux de Murviel - floral and honeyed, crisp mineral tones v fatter fruit; different. €4.95 85
2005 Bois Joli, Saint-Chinian blanc (Rolle Grenache Blanc Roussanne) - barrel sample: light toast with mealy creamy notes, good weight and concentration v citrus zest. €6.90 87+
2004 Tradition rosé, Saint-Chinian (80%+ Mourvèdre) - attractive tangy strawberry fruit with still quite crisp and lively palate, fat v fresh finish. €4.60 87+
2003 Cuvée Gabrielle de Spinola, Saint-Chinian (Mourvèdre Syrah Grenache Cinsault) - lovely black cherry & olive aromas, liquorice v peppery; solid fruity mouthful, powerful yet balanced. €5.90 87-89
2002 Cuvée Spéciale Bois Joli, Saint-Chinian (Mourvèdre Syrah) - rich leather and spice tones with light chocolate, quite mature with nicely textured tannins. €12 87-89
2004 Ile de Corail, Vin de Pays Coteaux de Murviel (100%Mourvèdre) - gorgeous ripe wild herb, liquorice and cherry tones; rich lush mouthfeel v structured and fresh, very different. Actually has 10 grams residual sugar and 15% alc, hence why it's VDP this vintage! €23 90+


34490 Murviel-lès-Béziers. Tel: 04 67 37 80 00, chateau-coujan@orange.fr or stanislas.pujol@wanadoo.frwww.chateau-coujan.com.


30 May 2006

Biodynamic growers worldwide: 'return to terroir'

In brief: "Biodynamic viticulture is slowly moving from obscure homeopathy-cum-astrology to hippy mainstream... the illustrious names who are members of the Renaissance des appellations or 'Return to terroir' group... speak for themselves..." Two dozen 90+ pointers picked from a ground-breaking tasting in London (May 2006) including sublime wines from: Josmeyer, Falfas, Leroy, Abbatucci, Gauby, Coulée Serrant, Breton, Trévallon, Montirius, Chapoutier, Nikolaihof, Geyerhof, Herrnsheim, Sander, Eymann, Pepe, San Giuseppe, Trevvalle, Valgiano, Lezaun, Estela, Benziger, Bonterra, Antiyal and Castagna. Plus an attempted summary of Nicolas Joly's ideas, biodynamic guru grower and author: "winegrowing for the future..." Read on to be enlightened!

Biodynamic growers worldwide: 'return to terroir'

This post is duplicated and has moved here:

Roussillon: 6th Fenouillèdes wine fair

"Winegrowers in the Fenouillèdes region, draped across a dramatic, elevated valley landscape bridging Corbières and French Catalonia, are talking enthusiastically about their wines and the unforgiving terrain that cradles their vineyards." This wine fair revealed a number of up-and-coming quality estates keen to spread the word. Richard Case of Domaine Pertuisane describes the old vine Grenache here as "unparalleled anywhere in France..." Read on for other names to look out for with my comments and tasting notes.

Click here for further reflection and prosaic scribbling: Finding Fenouillèdes country. Loads more from the area under Roussillon-French Catalonia winery A to Z (right hand column), where you'll find links through to updates and profiles on most of these producers:

Domaine des Soulanes
2004 Bastoul Laffite, vin de pays Côtes Catalanes (Grenache) - lifted spicy nose with very light oak, power v elegant fruit, nice dry structure and length. 88-90
2004 Sarrat del Mas Côtes du Roussillon Villages (CdRV)  (Grenache Carignan Syrah) - smokier and richer, again shows that black fruit and pepper combo, weight v finesse and dry v 'sweet' texture; more power and oak than above but it's impressively balanced. 92-94

Château Saint Roch
2004 La Bastide blanc - toasty and creamy with aniseed undertones, fat yet mineral and crisp; good foodie white, may be too toasty for some. 85-87
2003 Kerbuccio CdRV (Grenache Syrah Mourvèdre) - smoky tar and black olive, luscious maturing fruit set against firm powerful backdrop, good stylish length. 90-92

Domaine de l'Edre
2005 CdR blanc - yeasty and fat start leads to fresh mineral poise, crisp and dry v rich mouth-feel. 87-89
2004 Dom de l'Edre CdRV (Syrah Grenache Carignan) - rich vibrant blackberry fruit with chocolate oak texture, firm closed up finish but it reveals more with a little aeration, dense and powerful (14.5%) yet has mineral bite too. Needs time. 87-89

Domaine Barriot - Clos de l'Origine
2004 Vin de Pays rouge (40% Mourvèdre, no sulphur dioxide) - aromatic black olive and cherry notes lead to quite rich concentrated fruit, firm fresh and a little closed up on the finish but that black fruit/olive comes back impressively. 89-91
2004 CdR (Carignan Grenache Syrah) - quite fleshy with a touch of spicy oak, soft and elegant though with fresh length, light tannins and attractive fruit. 89


Domaine Serrelongue
2003 Extrait de Passion (Mourvèdre Grenache) - maturing raisin fruit and wild herbs, the oak's now melted into it better; oily textured tannins, perhaps won't last much longer. 87
2004 Saveur de Vigne CdRV - nice ripe peppery fruit with choco oak backdrop, firm rounded tannins, good weight and style despite slightly too much wood; promising nevertheless. 89
2005 Syrah cask sample - appealing fresh spicy black cherry aromas with cinnamon oak edges, nice pure Syrah peppery 'medicinal' style with firm fresh finish. 90+

Domaine Rivaton
2004 Gribouille Latour de France CdRV - (2nd bottle; the one in the blind tasting was bottled too soon and suffered from reductive taint) nice smoky tar and leather tones, rich and ripe v firm and tight, attractive style. 90
2005 Latour de France CdRV ("probably": cask sample) - smoky leather tinged with black cherries, rustic and lush with solid yet elegant finish. 90

Domaine les Tourdelles
2004 Granit Vin de Pays (Carignan) - lovely ripe liquorice fruit, soft and elegant finishing with a little dry & fresh tannin/acidity. 87
2004 Cuvée Pierre Damien CdRV (Syrah Grenache Carignan) - light cedar background notes, firm mouth-feel yet shows subtle fruit too, closes up a bit but should be good. 87-89

Domaine des Schistes
2003 Les Terrasses CdRV (Carignan Grenache Syrah) - herbal aromas lead to a luscious peppery black fruit palate, solid and powerful with oak undertones; but it's the dark fruit and structured tannins that stay with you. 90
2003 La Coumeille CdRV - tobacco leaf, spice and scented oak underlined with maturing complex notes; firm and commanding, again showing concentrated blackberry, tobacco and olive flavours. Wow. 92-94


Domaine Duran
2004 Dom du Vieux Cépage CdRV (Grenache Carignan Syrah) - appealing cherry fruit intensity v coating of tannins and a touch of wood, bite and grip v power of fruit and alcohol (a bit much at 15%). 87-88
2005 barrel samples - Syrah Grenache: rich fruit v high alcohol and firm tannins, very spicy with fresh bite and more elegance than the 2004. Carignan Grenache: more liquorice and black cherry/olive than the first one, firm and dry with similar freshness and power. Should blend up to a 90+ wine.

Domaine Terre Rousse
2004 CdRV (Grenache Carignan Syrah Mourvèdre) - smoky and intense, a little oxidised but not too much, spicy tobacco and liquorice fruit set against firm fresh finish. 87
2005 CdRV (before going into barrique) - delicious wild herbal black cherry fruit, firm dry structure and power v sexy fruit and length. Does it need oak? 89-91

Domaine de la Balmière
2005 Muscat sec - very lively mineral style with crisp citrus fruit v lightly rounded finish. 87
2005 Côtes du Roussillon (CdR) rosé - floral white peach and redcurrant fruit, attractive dry finish and length. 87
2005 Latour de France CdRV (1/4 each of Grenache Carignan Syrah Mourvèdre) - lovely peppery ripe black fruits and olive, firm dry mouth-feel with generous rounded texture. Promising. 88-90

Domaine de la Pertuisane
2004 Le Nain Violet (Grenache Carignan Syrah) - closed up and difficult to taste as it had just been bottled: firm yet elegant and long with attractive underlying fruit and well handled wood texture. 88-90
2004 La Pertuisane (90% Grenache, Carignan) - similar story to above: pretty oaky at the moment with fleshy underlying fruit, very concentrated and powerful with firm grip and oak coating. However, it is balanced despite all this and 15% alc, thanks to its subtle mineral freshness and that lovely dark fruit. Needs time. 90-92These wines are available in London from Planet of the Grapes on New Oxford Street, priced from £15 to £40.


Mas Karolina
2004 CdRV (Grenache Syrah Carignan)  - smoky and sweet-scented, nice ripe black fruit, concentrated and powerful enough to soak up the oak, dry grip v sweet coating; brawny (15%) but brainy too. 89-90
Maury Vin Doux Naturel (VDN) - luscious black cherry and liquorice, opulent and sweet balanced by lively bite of alcohol and tannins; try with a mature hard cheese such as Gruyere. 90-92

Vignerons de Caramany
2004 CdRV - a bit cardboardy on the nose but this was a vat sample, elegant layered fruit with subtle tannins and fresh bite. 85-87


Domaine Jouret et Fils
2004 Cuvée les 3 Soeurs CdRV - red pepper and spicy black live aromas, 'sweet' v floral; stiff and fresh mouth-feel with interesting wild ripe side. 87


Mas de Lavail
2004 la Désirade CdRV - ripe 'tar' notes lead to an oaky palate, rounded and full; closes up firmly with slight bitterness, again too young to tell. 89+
2004 Tradition CdRV - subtle perfumed fruit showing damsons with light oak, perhaps a little 'burnt' in style yet has good power and black fruit centre. 87-89

Clos de l'Oum
2004 Numéro Uno CdRV - the nose is a bit 'reductive', moving on to a concentrated firm palate set against blackberry/olive fruit; rather closed up and awkward but could develop nicely. 87-89+

Domaine de la Fou
2004 Ricochet CdRV - alluring cassis and black cherry fruit, fine and soft v fresh and firm, stylish length. 87-89
2004 la Clue (Cinsault Grenache) - closed nose to start, cinnamon spice and raisin fruit on the palate, quite big and firm yet nice ripe depth of fruit too. 87

Les Clos Perdus
L'Extreme Vin de table - wild rustic notes surrounded by rich black cherry, attractive mouth-feel with earthy black olive undertones, grippy and powerful with lively core. 87-89


Mas des Frèdes
2004 Grenache Noir, vin de pays Côtes Catalanes - attractive floral cherry and liquorice, elegant fruit v a tad of dry tannin, nice easy drinking style. 85-87

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Header image: Château de Flandry, Limoux, Languedoc. Background: Vineyard near Terrats in Les Aspres, Roussillon.