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Read my reports on Millésime Bio 2006
and 2005 for a slightly
less eclectic selection of wines and comments on organic viticulture. Plus
winners (honoured or should've been) and views from last year's
Signature Bio competition.
Alsace
Riesling
Why Riesling? Apart from being a personal favourite, this taxing variety
can excel in parts of Alsace. But the key to success isn't as simple as
turn and open; more like a multi-toothed double lock. I've tasted quite a
few Alsace Rieslings in my time, and the cheaper ones sourced from high
yielding vineyards aren't generally worth it. As you can see here, the
best wines often come from excellent sites - not necessarily so-called
Grands Crus, some of which are ignored by certain producers - and/or old
vines (vieilles vignes).
There's also controversy over winemaking styles:
some insist on totally dry Rieslings, or as near as, for full flavour
expression - except those specialities deliberately made from late picked
(vendange/s tardive/s) or botrytised (grains nobles) grapes - others
prefer to leave some residual sugar for a 'softer' wine. I tend to get
turned on by the extremes: very dry, zesty and mineral or super rich, oily
and sweet, yet still fresh. Well, usually anyway...
Dominique Frey - Dambach la Ville
2005 Vieilles Vignes - zesty mineral v ripe citrus notes, showing a
little sulphur dioxide perhaps
but it's youthful and that should dissipate; quite concentrated 'celery'
fruit with subtle tight acidity, a bit closed at the moment.
87
André Stentz -
Wettolsheim
2005 Rosenberg - nicely ripe nose, almost late picked character
(this is a warm site); concentrated and rounded with linseed oil notes v
'chalky' acidity on the finish. 89
2004 Vendange Tardive - more raisiny and richer with mineral petrol
tones, spicy and musky too; attractive balanced length.
89
Eugene Meyer -
Bergholtz
2002 Cuvée Sélectionnée - nice perfumed petrol-like aromas, quite
full palate with crisp acidity, mineral extract and good length.
89-91
2003 Grand Cru Spiegel - ripe v zesty, a little sweetness countered
by firm acidity, weighty finish too; needs time.
90-92
Jean-Pierre Frick - Pfaffenheim
2005 Bihl - a bit closed on the nose; ripe citrus palate v tight
green fruit and zingy acid structure. 87-89
2002 Cuvée Précieuse - developed and oily, almost creamy; tight
fresh backdrop v mature fruit on its good length.
89-91
Clément Klur -
Katzenthal
2005 Katz - appealing ripe kiwi fruit with celeriac edges, well
balanced fruit ripeness v mineral acidity. 89
2004 Klur - linseed/petrol notes with raisin edges, 'sweet'
maturing fruit v mineral and fresh finish. 89
2004 Wineck Schlossberg - similar character to above but more
intense and richer, concentrated and powerful v lively lime zing.
92-94
André Kleinknecht -
Mittelbergheim
2005 - perfumed zesty and mineral, grapefruit and yeast-lees
undertones; closed up but promising. 87+
2003 Grand Cru Kirchberg de barr - ripe lemons, expressive Riesling
purity; quite rich and rounded then dry, crisp, mineral and spicy; just
beginning to open up. 90+
More AK wines
here.
Sylvie Spielmann -
Bergheim
2002 Engelgarten - floral with oily development, quite elegant v
concentrated ripe fruit; fairly mature yet still shows fresh mineral
length. 87
2002 Grand Cru Kanzlerberg - much more intense Riesling character,
lime and mineral tones; very long and fresh v maturing fruit depth,
lovely. 94-96
2001 Grand Cru Kanzlerberg - more petrolly and mineral, very dry
with intense crisp acid structure; wow. 94
Pierre-Paul
Humbrecht - Pfaffenheim
2005 - zesty delicate 'chalky' floral tones, fuller mouth-feel v
fresh acidity and tight length; needs 6 months, nice dry style.
89
2003 Abondance - attractive Riesling nose, linseed and lime; ripe
with a touch of residual sugar, has nice freshness too and maturing fruit
on the finish. 89
Julien Meyer -
Nothalten
2005 Nature - a bit closed to start, opens out to 'celery' v citrus
fruit, tight and zippy with long dry finish.
89-91
2005 Zellberg - tighter still then creamier and riper actually,
very fresh acidity and mineralised fruit. Wow.
90-92
2005 Grittermatte - again closed nose then ripeness on the palate v
intense acidity and zesty extract, quite powerful too with very dry
finish. 92-94
2004 Grand Cru Muenchberg - more developed and petrolly, good
concentration and roundness v steely bite and length, bit of oomph too.
92-94
Frédéric Geschickt
- Ammerschwihr
2004 Vieilles Vignes - quite pungent celeriac tones v ripe
concentrated fruit, nice zesty texture and length with lively acidity.
89
2004 Kaefferkopf - tighter mineral style with elegant zesty finish;
less obvious needing 6 months to a year to express itself.
89-91
2004 Wineck Schlossberg - tighter still with its firm acid
structure v gentle ripeness, elegant fresh finish yet developing oiliness
too. 88-90
2002 Wineck Schlossberg - more developed and kerosene-like
with floral white peach tones, maturing raisin fruit v tight acidity and
mineral length. 92-94
Jean Becker -
Riquewihr
2004 Lerchenberg - pretty intense Riesling character, fruity v
tight mouth-feel with quite dry finish. 87-89
2004 Grand Cru Froehn - more closed up and 'limestone' than above,
fresh and elegant finish. 89+
2002 Kronenbourg - very nice 'minerality' and maturing fruit, tight
acidity on its quite long finish. 89-91
CORSICA
Okay, there were only two
estates from Beauty Island at the MB show - maybe the only ones farmed
organically? - so hardly representative. Domaine Comte Abbatucci is now run according to
biodynamic principles: whatever the
methods, it's recognised as one of the best producers, which I agree
with wholeheartedly. Jean-Charles Abbatucci has been experimenting with 18 previously vanished Corsican varieties with some interesting
results - see my notes on his 2006 white vat samples. And his red Faustine blend
is delicious: he had three different vintages at the tasting.
On the other
hand, Domaine de Granajolo perhaps exemplifies the disappointment
I've felt before with Corsican wines - admittedly it's been a few years
since I've been there though. Or their reds at least, which lack
real ripeness and generosity. I'm not sure why: are the varieties planted
in the wrong sites or the growing techniques unsuitable or do they just
pick too early? Either way, when will Corsica as a whole fulfil what
appears to be such great potential? While you're mulling over these
cumbersome questions, enjoy the wines:
Comte Abbatucci -
Casalabriva
2006 Vermentinu (tank sample) - nice
concentration v aromatic fruit, zesty v ripe and rounded; unusual.
87-89
2006 rosé (tank sample:
Barbarossa Sciacarellu)
- floral redcurrant, very zesty with nice extract and fresh length.
87-89
2006 white blend 1 (I didn't write the grape names down and
couldn't find them on their website) - banana and peach notes lead to a
creamy concentrated palate and fresh length; interesting.
87+
2006 white blend 2 - zesty extract v rich fruit, quite yeasty at
the moment yet should be good. 87+
2005 cuvée Faustine, Ajaccio AOC (Sciacarellu
Niellucciu and a touch of old vine
Carignan) - smoky ripe Italianesque raisin
and liquorice fruit, soft fruity mouth-feel v quite firm and fresh, nice
power v elegance. 89-91
2004 cuvée Faustine (Sciacarellu
Niellucciu and a touch of old vine
Carignan) - less smoky, more structured yet
similar in character, nice grip v ripeness. 90-92
2003 cuvée Faustine (Sciacarellu
Niellucciu and a touch of old vine
Carignan) - more developed and complex on the
nose, quite rich 'tar' tones v firm and fresh, power v lovely fruit.
92
By the way, if you're feeling well-off, you can drink Abbatucci's wines in
Gordon Ramsay's London restaurants.
Domaine de Granajolo
- Ste Lucie de Porto-Vecchio
2005 blanc, Corse Porto-Vecchio AOC -
fresh perfumed and zesty with lemon and banana notes, tight steely finish.
87
2005 cuvée Monika rosé (Niellucciu)
- nice creamy fruit showing toffee-like edges v tart raspberry flavours,
weighty v appealing freshness. 87
2003 cuvée Monika rouge (Syrah
Niellucciu) - herbal red pepper tones v
rustic richness, tannins are a bit hard but this has more generous fruit
than the two 04 reds I tried. 83-85
TUSCANY
There was a handful of organic Tuscan estates at the tasting that
illustrated quite a diversity of 'modern' and traditional styles, as well
as quality it has to be said. However, some were very good and typical of
everything you'd want from an attractive, made-for-food red wine shaped by
seductive Sangiovese and other local grapes. Having said that, I also
liked one or two of the 'international' / Italian varietal blends: a
little restraint on the new oak front is still required though...
Casina di Cornia -
Castellina in Chianti
2000 Chianti Classico Riserva, Vignala Casina - maturing rustic
fruit with liquorice and morello cherry notes, very firm and fresh
mouth-feel backed up by quite soft fruit and powerful length. Very Tuscan.
88-90
Poggio Trevvalle -
Campagnatico
2004 Morellino (=
Sangiovese) di Scansano, Larcille - aromatic cherry and smoke
notes, quite concentrated and rich v firm tannins and powerful finish,
lingering light cedar oak and 'sweet & savoury' Sangiovese fruit.
87-89
2004 Montecucco rosso (Sangiovese Merlot
Cabernet) - more closed up on the nose, chunky earthy and lush with
tobacco and cedar undertones. 88
Azienda Agricola
Casale - Colle di Val d'Elsa
2001 Chianti Colli Senesi - maturing resin, raisin and morello
aromas; soft earthy fruit with liquorice backdrop v dry grip and elegant
finish. 87-89
1999 Riserva - richer smokier fruit, pretty tannic palate yet with
lovely liquorice v savoury fruit. 89-91
Fattoria Majnoni Guicciardini - Vico d'Elsa
2003 Chianti - light cedar notes lead to richer tobacco and sweet cherry
palate, dry firm coating v ripeness and smokiness.
87
2004 - more rustic and peppery yet leaner, firmer mouth-feel; nice fruit,
grip and power, tight closed length. 89
2004 Riserva - less obvious on the nose, concentrated and very firm with
attractive chocolate oak coating but it's mostly fruit on the finish.
Needs a few years. 92
Both Majnoni and Casale also make sensational olive oil.
Fattoria
Lavacchio -
Pontassieve
2004 Chianti Rufina, Cedro - elegant wild herb scented
morello and liquorice notes, tight structure layered with subtle fruit,
firm dry length. 88
2004 Chianti Rufina Riserva (Sangiovese
etc plus 10% Merlot) - richer plummier aromas
with a touch of choco oak, very firm and quite powerful yet showing nice
smoky lush fruit underneath. 90-92
2003 Fontegalli (Sangiovese Cabernet)
- full on more 'contemporary' style, cassis and light tobacco tones;
powerful 14.5% alcohol combines with firm dry tannins, wow. A bit too much
alcohol but otherwise good. 90
Posted Feb 2007 |
