Cava guide
"Creative Catalan bubbles"

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Consejo Regulador del Cava, Vilafranca del Penedès; from www.crcava.esI'm not going to bore you with the full Monty geographical or technical stuff - the Cava region is quite vast and extends beyond Catalunya in fact – so check out the official website for more details: www.crcava.es or you could also try www.cavafromspain.com (Wines from Spain's New York City office site). This mini-guide is more about bringing your attention to a few lesser-known sparkling gems that I've enjoyed personally (in moderation of course); and hopefully also to encourage you to visit and explore beyond Barcelona and the region's nice beaches and coastal towns, out into real Cava country (centred on Vilafranca del Penedès): head for those green hills!
Grapes-wise, traditional local white varieties include
Macabeu, Xarel.lo (the funny dot between the Ls gives a "luh" sound in Catalan a bit like an English double L, otherwise it's pronounced more like "yuh" as it is in Spanish) and Parellada; and red grapes Trepat, Monastrell and occasionally Garnacha for rosé Cava (rosat in Catalan, rosado in Spanish). You'll also see Chardonnay and Pinot Noir depending on the producer's philosophy and plantings. I'm not sure if the raging row about the latter 'invaders' is still going on; but when I visited a few years ago (see 'Cava & Penedès Wine Institute' opposite, when I've reconstructed that page...), one of the Freixenet (www.freixenet.es) bosses (against French varieties in Cava) told an amusing tale about how they wouldn't even open the door when he once called by at Codorníu (www.codorniu.com big fan of Chardy etc)! Otherwise Cava is made pretty much in the same way as Champagne, from enormous scale (Freixenet's cellars are like an underground multi-storey car park) to family artisan. The key winemaking ingredient is a minimum of nine months bottle age (by law) on the fine yeast lees, before this deposit is removed by a nowadays mainly mechanised process called 'disgorgement' (this word doesn't appear to exist in English according to my spell-check).

The wines I've sampled and reviewed below are mostly non-vintage or NV styles unless where an actual vintage is stated, meaning obviously it's from that year specifically rather than a more usual blend of different (more recent) vintages. I'm rather keen on the food-friendly Brut Nature or Natural style, which you don't see much outside Spain for some reason, meaning no added dosage i.e. it's not sweetened leaving barely any residual sugar (as opposed to I think 9 to 12g/l on average for a classic Brut style). So these Nature wines are normally very dry but are often aged for longer in bottle to give some compensating richness. The ones that aren't can be rather lean; however, the acidity level in Cava is generally less than Champagne, which can make them more charming although probably with lower ageing potential (I've tried some very good older ones though, such as Gramona). Another thing, at usually 11.5% alcohol, they make a refreshing change too.
Cava is doing very well in the UK (over 31 million bottles exported in 2006, according to the Cava website), Germany (a whopping 46m although decreasing) and the US (over 13m); yet in Britain at least still appears to have a cheap image. Not surprising perhaps given the wide availability of discounted supermarket own-labels and heavily promoted big brands (many of them good by the way). Isn't it time that the better quality and more unusual Cavas, which you find everywhere in Catalunya and to a lesser extent the rest of Spain, got more of a look-in? The large producers are bound to export some of their quirkier styles that must end up in small quantities in independent wine merchants, so browse for longer next time you pop into your local specialist shop. In Spain, I find you can generally buy a really nice bottle of Cava for €5 or more, sometimes for only €3 or €4 (it's not really worth buying the cheapest ones). And if you really 'splash out' €7 to €10, or occasionally more even, you can find some superb quality sparkling wines (go to  bottom of page for the posh-est names). Just remember to bring a couple of polystyrene bottle packs with you so you can take some back in your suitcase (otherwise the toast will be on airport security).
This mini-guide includes certain wines savoured previously (2006/2007), some of which you'll find elsewhere on the site, side by side with more recent recommendations (my autumn/winter collection 2007/2008). I've also been updating it throughout summer 2008, as and when suitably tasty Cavas are unearthed... and continuing in 2009.
Richard M James: original report published January 2008, latest update August 2010.

Mont Bató - Castell de Vilarnau
Brut Nature (11.5%) - ridiculously good for the price, this delicate and quite stylish sparkler has plenty of fine bubbles with enticing baked apple and yeasty biscuit aromas / flavours; nice toasty oaty coating and almost rounded texture vs crisp refreshing appley finish. Apparently it was disgorged on 29/6/09, although not very useful without knowing the date it started its second fermentation... Oct 2009: value! €3.99 Bon Preu own-label (Catalan supermarket). 87+

Família Oliveda www.grupoliveda.com
Brut Nature Reserva (Macabeo Xarel·lo 11.5%) - lightly toasty yeasty edges, floral and honeyed too; quite refined style, elegant refreshing and dry v ever so slightly rounded and milky, crisp finish. April 2009, €4.70. 87+
Rosat Brut Reserva (Garnatxa Trepat 11.5%) - fuller richer fruitier style (a touch sweeter actually) with creamy strawberry flavours and dark chocolate undertones; again refreshing and juicy with off-dry finish. April 2009, bargain at €3.99. 87+

Cava d'Oriell
Brut Nature (11.5% "disgorged" 12/11/08) - its lively fine small bubbles release evocative appley, lightly yeasty and honeyed aromas; very drinkable, mouth-watering and crisp with just a touch of biscuit richness on its otherwise very dry finish. January 2009, €5.59 Bonpreu supermarkets. 89

Celler Planas-Albareda
Brut Nature (11.5%) - well-made and stylish showing freshly baked bread aromas & flavours plus floral and oily tones too; very crisp and dry v rounder textured edges, refreshing and quite fine. €5 88+

Marfil - Alella Vinicola www.alellavinicola.com
Brut Nature (Macabeu Parellada Xarel.lo) - refreshing and attractive style showing light toasted bread and honey notes, crisp bite but not too dry. June 2008 €5.60. 87+
Rosat Brut (Garnacha Trepat) - nice delicate strawberry fruit with black cherry & chocolate cake undertones, moving on to a fresh and off dry finish. June 08 87+
Try their "still" rosé.

Mont d'Àrac - Can Descregut www.montdarac.com
Reserva Brut Nature (11.5%) - very nice style, showing toasty yeast and almond sponge cake flavours v crisp focus and dry length; quite complex, tasty and oily textured v refreshing bite. June 2008, about €5.50. 90+

Arvisa
Celler de l'Avi, Brut Nature Reserva (11.5%) - fine mix of lively crisp and dry v oily biscuity flavours and texture, easy drinking stuff yet elegant and well-made. I think it's a kind of own-label for a wine shop in Calella. April 08, about €5. 87-89

Marqués de Sarnella (J.A.P. Roura www.roura.es)
Brut Nature
(11.5%) - enticing mixture of quite rich, toasty and oat biscuits with almost 'sweet' fruited texture v crisp dry bite and intensity; ludicrous bargain at €3.25, on offer at Alcampo supermarkets (the Spanish guise for Auchan). March 08. 89

Cavas Lavernoya www.lavernoya.com
Heretat de Lácrima Baccus Gran Reserva Brut Nature (11.5%) - extraordinary stuff for €4.95 (old stock perhaps, this is a ridiculous bargain?) tasting like mature vintage Champagne (the first bottle more so than the next couple of times tasted). Toasty and yeasty with almond, hazelnut and honey notes; rounded concentrated and full with tangy v rich-baked oat cake flavours; quite lively, tight, long and fine on the finish. February and March 2008 at Alimentaria, Barcelona's enormous food & drink show, as were the others below. Again in June 08: tighter and less toasty but still very good. 90-92
Heretat de Lácrima Baccus Reserva Brut - lovely honeyed v yeasty aromas, crisp and lively with fresh v biscuity fruit, nice length too. 88-90
Lácrima Baccus Finca la Porxada Brut - quite fine, tighter and crisper; less obviously toasty and yeasty yet still has very attractive honeyed oily texture and good length. 87-89
Primerisimo Gran Cuvée - toastier almost woody nose, richer and oilier v fresh and tight; a bit less interesting on the finish though. 87
Lavernoya Reserva Brut Nature (18 months lees ageing) - more floral and fruity on the nose, pretty bready and oaty on its concentrated v lively palate, lovely finish and length. 92+
Summum Brut Nature - wow: rich complex almond biscuit notes give way to a tense, dry and refreshing palate; beautiful balance of mouth-coating and seductive fruit/yeast and real finesse too. I'd imagine this one belongs under 'posh cavas' below. 94

Perelada Brut Reserva from www.castilloperelada.comCastillo Perelada www.castilloperelada.com
Brut Reserva (Macabeu Parellada Xarel.lo) - elegant floral almond and biscuit aromas, more chocolatey on the palate with crisp dry and tight length. Nice with chocolate and coconut sponge. On offer (usually over €5) summer 2006... and summer 2010: agree with that note and score, this is so consistently fine and tasty. 87+
Brut Rosado (Monastrell Garnacha) - enticingly frothy summer fruits' cocktail, leading to fresh choco-nut and off-dry finish. On offer (usually over €5) summer 2006. "Tasted" again June 2010, similar note here (on my blog). 87+
Brut Reserva (Macabeu Parellada Xarel.lo, 11.5%) – 15 months bottle ageing on the lees: fine nose with subtle yeast intensity and honeyed undertones, crisp and mouth-watering making you want to sip more. January 2008 €5-€6. 87+
2002 Brut Nature (Macabeu Parellada Xarel.lo) - You'll think it's Champagne: really quite refined with subtle intensity of yeasty oily almond flavours, crisp elegant length and very dry refreshing finish. February 2006 €6-€7. 90-92
2005 Brut Nature (mostly Macabeu Parellada 11.5%, 15 months bottle age) - still quite young with elegant honeyed almond and lightly yeasty edges, fairly 'sweet' textured and tasty although this is tight, refreshing and crisply dry on its fine finish; a bit closed up, it should fill out a little more in bottle. June 2008 €6. 90
More Perelada below: Gran Claustro.

Jaume Serra www.civusa.com/jaume.html
Brut Nature
quite stylish with toasted almond and floral aromas, fuller waxy mouth-feel v crisp and dry finish. Bargain at €3.50 November 2007 & April 2008.
87
Rosado Brut Reserva (Pinot Noir Trepat 11.5%) - earthy meaty even with peppery undertones combine with roast almonds and squashed strawberries; rounded and ripe fruity with tangy rhubarb flavours too, fairly dry fresh finish. A bit strange but nice with it. May 2007. 87

Bach www.codorniu.com / www.bach.es
Extrísimo Brut Nature (varieties: Macabeu, Xarel.lo, Parellada. 11.5% alc.) - not the greatest "Brut Natural" style Cava (very dry, no added dosage) but one of the most consistently brilliant value: I've tried it several times before and recently bought a bottle in Spain on offer for under €3! Attractive combo of floral bready and light oat-biscuit notes, with hints of honeyed almond flavours too; followed by refreshingly appley, crisp and dry finish. Good with light summer food or very easy quaffing as an "apero." 87
Extrísimo Brut Natural
light and crisp, quite tight palate lacking a bit of richness perhaps, quite dry and attractive finish. Looking above and below, looks like this bottle was less good than the other two I tried. January 2008 €3.50. 85
Extrísimo Brut Natural
(same as above) - light and elegant with underlying oily, nutty and appley characters; fresh, fairly long and crisp finish. February 2006. 85+

Reserva de la Masia Brut (Macabeu Xarel.lo Chardonnay 11.5%) - fairly rich and biscuity, ample and rounded with complex flavours and fine bubbles & length. January & March 2008 €6.50. 90-92

Cava Blancher, Capdevila Pujol www.blancher.es
Brut Natural Reserva especial Antoni Capdevila Pujol (11.5%) - yeasty with chocolate cake notes, fine constant bubbles although not that fizzy; crisp acidity v Brazil nut richness, fresh & dry v rounded texture. What a find. Jan & May 2008 €5. 88-90

Pere Camps
Reserva Brut (Chardonnay Macabeu Xarel.lo, 11.5%) – good stuff for the money: delicately yeasty with acacia honey notes, fresh off-dry finish. October 2007 €3.50. 85+

Castellblanch www.castellblanch.es
Brut Zero Reserva
(11.5%) - subtle quality fizz showing apple and biscuit characters, hazelnut oily texture and refreshing finish. March 2006 and November 2007 €5-€6. 89
Brut Zero - Brut Nature (11.5%) - not sure if this is a different Cava from the one above or could be just a change of name/packaging, as they're pretty similar. Intricate enticing nose showing subtle bready/oat-cakey and lightly roasted almond aromas, similar flavours on the palate with attractive oily nutty texture and very dry, crisp appley finish. Tasted Feb 2010, quite classy for the money: €5!
87-89

Castell d'Olèrdola
Brut Reserva (Macabeu Xarel.lo Parellada, 11.5%) - subtle floral citrus and bread aromas, tight refreshing mouth-feel with just a hint of yeasty roundness, dry crisp finish. Feb 2008. 85

Cases Ribalta
Brut Nature (Macabeu Xarel.lo Parellada, 11.5%) - elegant fizz with quite intense almond biscuit flavours, lightly oily texture then fresher finish. On offer April 2006. 87

Brut Nature (same as above, full price) – quite refined and delicate with nutty oily flavours v fresh long and very dry finish. January 2008 just over €5. 87-89

Conde de Caralt www.condedecaralt.com
Blanc de Blancs Brut (11.5%) - flowery and elegant tones lead on to an oily creamy palate with light yeasty tang and freshness, delicate bubbles too. January 2008 about €5. 87

Mont Marçal www.mont-marcal.com
Reserva Brut
(11.5%) - quite fine bubbles with subtle baked bread and floral tones; elegantly oily texture with yeasty appley bite v fuller honeyed flavours, crisp and quite intense finish. February 2008 about €5.50. 87-89
Reserva Brut Nature (11.5%) - similar to above showing elegance and freshness v lightly toasted bread notes; more mouth-watering, crisper, drier and longer in the end. June 2008 €5.95 on offer. 89

Segura Viudas www.seguraviudas.es
Brut Reserva – pretty benchmark style showing a touch of class yet more importantly refreshing drinking: nice balance of light yeasty/toasty and crisp & clean. November 2007 €5-€6.
87
1994 Brut Vintage – I don't think this bottle was showing that well (maybe ever so slightly corked?); however, it was appley and honeyed with fresh bite, a bit lighter than I expected though. December 2007 €7.50.
87

Raimat www.raimat.com
Brut Nature Mètode Tradicional (Pinot Noir Chardonnay Xarel.lo, 12%) - from the tiny Costers del Segre DO zone but still in Catalonia. This really quite fine and flavoursome sparkling wine, shaped by similar production methods to Champagne, comes from outside the Cava area. Fairly rich, buttery and tropical fruit gives way to developing yeasty complexity with fresh, dry and elegant length. Brut Nature means no added dosage, i.e. not sweetened with less than 4 grams natural residual sugar; so pretty dry to you and me. March 2006 about €6. 90-92
Brut
- note to follow... Jan 2008 €5.50.
Brut Nature
(same as the first one) - trying it again just went to prove what a fab sparkling wine this is: rich and toasty with golden baked oat cake flavours, rounded oily texture than fresh dry cut on its long finish. June 2008 €6.65. 92-94

Codorníu www.codorniu.com
Her
ència 1551 Brut Nature - attractive mix of freshness and youthful citrus fruit v fuller waxier texture, very dry and a touch austere perhaps. January 2008 €5.50. 87
Herència 1551 Brut Nature (same as above:
Parellada Xarel.lo Chardonnay 11.5%) - maybe there was something not quite right with the above bottle (or maybe it was me being a touch austere), as this one was richer and more generous with subtle toasty yeast, oily honeyed roundness then crisp dry refreshing finish. May 2008, same price. 89

Eudald Massana Noya www.massananoya.com
Brut Nature Família (11.5% organic) - fine and subtle Cava with delicate yeast, honey and almond oil notes; lightly nutty palate with fresh citrus, tight zesty and dry finish. Feb 2008 €5-€6. 89

Celler Carles Andreu, Pira - Conca de Barberà from www.cavandreu.com

Caves Carles Andreu www.cavandreu.com
Tried and tested at Alimentaria Barcelona, March 2008:
2006 Trepat (13.5%) - not Cava but an unusual red wine showing Pinot Noir type 'sweet & savoury' aromas tinged with a hint of vanilla oak; 'sweet' oak on the palate layered with soft red fruits and a bit of weight coming from the alcohol, supple tannins yet quite fresh bite too. 88+
Cava Brut Nature (
Macabeu Parellada, 18 months lees ageing, 11.5%) - fine elegant nose showing light chocolate tones; delicious balance of yeasty complexity, richness, elegance and refreshing dry length; good stuff. 90+
Reserva Brut Nature (
Macabeu Parellada Chardonnay, 26 months, 12%) - again has an elegant floral nose with dark chocolate cake notes; toasted almonds v crisp intensity, incisive length v 'sweet' texture (it's very dry actually). 92+
Click here for two more Carles Andreu "posh" barrel fermented cavas.

Parató www.parato.es
Tasted at Alimentaria, March 2008 Barcelona:
Parató Brut (the 3 usual suspects plus 5% Chardonnay, 15 months lees ageing) - elegant style, subtle hazelnut and honeyed flavours followed by crisp yet rounded mouth-feel, not so dry. 87+
Parató Brut Nature Reserva (24 months) - quite taught acidity v slightly toastier depth but subtle with it; very appley, bright, lengthy and elegant too. 89-91
Parató Rosado Brut Reserva Pinot Noir (15+ months) - a touch volatile? or something but interesting with it; quite chunky strawberry and raspberry fruit, 'sweet' textured v fresh and drier than the first one. 87-89

Cellers Triada
Tasted at Alimentaria, March 2008 Barcelona:
Gran d'abbatis Brut Nature (100% old-vine Parellada) - very floral and peachy on the nose, subtle yeasty tang (despite 18 months lees ageing in fact) v refreshing elegant cut, very dry yet well-balanced. 89-91
2005 Brut Rosado Trepat - very fruity and up-front, slightly earthy too; fruit cake on its rounded oily texture, zingy bite too; commendably unusual. 89

POSH CAVA: 10 EUROS AND MORE

Vineyard in la Roca del Vallès from www.parxet.esParxet www.parxet.es
Brut (Xarel.lo
Macabeu Parellada 11.5%) - tasty and classy Cava that makes you want to sip more, lovely balance between toasty baked bread richness and fresh crispness, rounder and seems less dry than some of the others although long and stylish. Nearer 10 than 5 Euros Feb 2008. 90
Three of the wines below were tasted at Alimentaria Barcelona in March 2008, where I was a little more underwhelmed for some reason, although they were served icy-cold so perhaps not showing very well. Anyway, they have pretensions of being listed under 'posh' price-wise, but I'd have to taste them again before I was totally convinced...
Update
: I did indeed try a couple of them again at Parxet's office/cellar in Tiana (just northeast of Barcelona) in June 2008 with other wines from their stable - Marqués de Alella white wines and Bodegas Tionio reds from Ribera del Duero. So, more recent notes on their Cavas also follow below. And click here to read a bit of a blurb on their different wineries and comments on the non-fizzy wines.
2004 Vintage Gran Reserva - quite closed on the nose, leading on to subtle yeasty honeyed cakey notes v tight and crisp bite; refreshing and quite long. 89
Titiana Chardonnay - similar profile to above but rounder and fruitier, again has that trademark crisp length. 89
Titiana Pinot Noir Rosado Brut (20-30 months lees ageing, 6 gr/l RS) - fine toast v raspberry aromas, oat cakes layered with crunchier red fruits, taught and snappy to finish. 89-91
Tasted again June 2008: delicious strawberry and raspberry flavours, quite lush fruity and chocolate cakey actually; weighty rounded v crisp underlying bite running through it. Yum. 92
Brut Nature
(Xarel.lo
Macabeu Parellada 11.5%, 20 months) - fine elegant style with crisp, very dry mouth-feel v subtle coating of lightly toasty and honeyed fruit; refreshing long and tight finish. June 2008 89-91

Castillo Perelada www.castilloperelada.com
2004 Gran Claustro Brut Nature (Pinot Noir Macabeu Chardonnay) – their top Cava and the only one still aged in Peralada's (different spelling in Catalan) old castle cellars on traditional racks: it doesn't say how long for in their brochure (a secret perhaps), but I'd guess at least 2 years lees ageing in bottle; so the 2004 is youthful at the moment. Complex toasty aromas supported by rich v citrus-tinged fruit; very tight, intense and dry palate with great length, lovely round texture v crisp bite. Needs a few years to blossom. February 2008. 92-94

Caves Carles Andreu www.cavandreu.com
Tried and tested at Alimentaria Barcelona, March 2008:
Reserva Barrica Brut Nature (
Macabeu Parellada Chardy 26 months lees ageing 12%) - quite oaky vanilla notes with fragrant white peach fruit underneath; honeysuckle flavours on a weighty rich palate, weirdly a bit cloying despite the fact that it's very dry and fresh on the finish! Different certainly, I do rather like it but it's not for everyone; drink with food, savoury or sweet even. 90+
Rosat Trepat Reserva Brut, Fermentat en Barrica (12%) - Whereas the above Cava was aged in oak for about 6 months after the first fermentation in stainless vats and before second fermentation in bottle (with me?); this one-off rosé was cold soaked with skins to pick up some colour, then fermented and left in new (untoasted) oak barrels with lees-stirring for three months, then underwent its second fermentation in bottle for 26 months on fine lees. Phew, complicated! Anyway, it shows Black Forest gateau and vanilla aromas, very rich and toasty on the palate, quite oaky yet fruity and yeasty too; on the sweeter side (13g/l residual sugar as opposed to 3g as above) but it has underlying crisp acidity (much higher than above according to the tech sheet). One of the wine world's oddball specimens, nevertheless it's very good. 90+

Cava Llopart www.llopart.es
Integral Brut Nature (Parellada
Chardonnay Macabeu, 11.5%, 18-24 months bottle ageing, 2 gr/l RS) - very fresh, floral & fruity aromas lead on to a lively palate lined with subtle chocolate nut v yeasty tanginess; refreshingly dry and mouth-watering finish. 90+
2002 Gran Reserva Leopardi Brut Nature (
Macabeu Xarel.lo Parellada Chardonnay, 12%, approx. 4 years ageing, 2 gr/l RS) - richer and toastier showing attractive maturing fruit characters and biscuity coating v fresh and crisp intensity, fine and long finish. 92-94
Microcosmos Rosé Brut Nature (85% Pinot Noir 15% Monastrell, 12%, 2½-3 years ageing, 2 gr/l RS) - fine perfumed red fruit and rose notes moving on to grilled black cherry and dark chocolate mouth-feel, again balanced by fresh intensity & fine acidity; delicious sparkling wine in fact. 95
Ex-Vite Brut (
Xarel.lo Macabeu 12%, 5 years ageing, 5 gr/l RS) - rich cakey nose showing oily baked oat cake flavours, lush coating but again has that trademark fresh acidity plus long and complex finish. 95
All four tasted at Alimentaria, March 2008, in Barcelona. Integral retails for about €9.50, the others are dearer: relative to their oozing supremacy, they still make equivalent quality Champagnes look very expensive.

MORE BUBBLY CATALAN BOTTLES ADDED AS I DISCOVER THEM!


Quick A to Z
Carles Andreu

Mont Àrac
Arvisa
Bach
Mont Bató
Blancher
Pere Camps
Conde Caralt
Castellblanch
Codorníu
Lavernoya
Llopart
Mont Marçal
Marfil Alella
Massana Noya
Castell Olèrdola
Oliveda
d'Oriell
Parató
Parxet
Castillo Perelada
Planas-Albareda
Raimat
Cases Ribalta
Marqués Sarnella
Segura Viudas
Jaume Serra
Triada

Posh Cava:
10+ Euros

More Catalan
& Spanish
:

Castilla y León

Winery snaps 4:
al Límit
Ijalba
Parra-Jimenez

Alella
Bonastre
Ètim
Palacio Vega
Parxet
Raimat
Tionio

New Wave Spain

Wines of the moment

Biodynamic growers

Millésime Bio

Monastrell: Jumilla

Rioja free zone!

Tastings 2004-2005:
Waitrose
Majestic
Rosé riot
(unfinished)

Winery minis 2005

Tastings 2002-2003:
Cava Penedès
CVNE Contino
Mas La Plana
Mucho Español
(unfinished)

Roussillon winery snapshots
"
North Catalonia"
100 estates and co-ops "profiled
"
(watch out for FBI serial killers!)