Cava guide
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Consejo Regulador del Cava, Vilafranca del Penedès; from www.crcava.esI'm not going to go into the full monty geographical or technical stuff - the Cava region is quite vast and extends beyond Catalunya in fact – so check out the official website for more details: www.crcava.es or you could also try www.cavafromspain.com (Wines from Spain's New York City office site). This mini-guide is more about bringing your attention to a few lesser-known sparkling gems that I've enjoyed personally (in moderation of course); and hopefully also to encourage you to visit and explore beyond Barcelona and the region's nice beaches and coastal towns, out into real Cava country (centred on Vilafranca del Penedès): head for those green hills!
Grapes-wise, traditional local white varieties include
Macabeu, Xarel.lo (the funny dot between the Ls gives a 'luh' sound in Catalan a bit like an English double L, otherwise it's pronounced more like 'yuh' as it is in Spanish) and Parellada; and red grapes Trepat, Monastrell and occasionally Garnacha for rosé Cava (rosat in Catalan, rosado in Spanish). You'll also see Chardonnay and Pinot Noir depending on the producer's philosophy and plantings. I'm not sure if the raging row about the latter 'invaders' is still going on; but when I visited a few years ago (see 'Cava & Penedès Wine Institute' opposite, when I've reconstructed that page...), one of the Freixenet (www.freixenet.es) bosses (against French varieties in Cava) told an amusing tale about how they wouldn't even open the door when he once called by at Codorníu (www.codorniu.com big fan of Chardy etc)! Otherwise Cava is made pretty much in the same way as Champagne, from enormous scale (Freixenet's cellars are like an underground multi-storey car park) to family artisan. The key winemaking ingredient is a minimum of nine months bottle age (by law) on the fine yeast lees, before this deposit is removed by a nowadays mainly mechanised process called 'disgorgement' (this word doesn't appear to exist in English according to my spell-check).
The wines I've sampled and reviewed below are mostly non-vintage or NV styles unless where an actual vintage is stated, meaning obviously it's from that year specifically rather than a more usual blend of different (more recent) vintages. I'm quite keen on the food-friendly Brut Nature or Natural style, which you don't see much outside Spain for some reason, meaning no added dosage i.e. it's not sweetened leaving barely any residual sugar (as opposed to I think 9 to 12g/l on average for a classic Brut style). So these Nature wines are normally very dry but are often aged for longer in bottle to give some compensating richness. The ones that aren't can be rather lean; however, the acidity level in Cava is generally less than Champagne, which can make them more charming although probably with lower ageing potential (I've tried some very good older ones though, such as
Gramona). Another thing, at usually 11.5% alcohol, they make a refreshing change too.
Cava is doing very well in the UK (over 31 million bottles exported in 2006, according to the Cava website), Germany (a whopping 46m although decreasing) and the US (over 13m); yet in Britain at least still appears to have a cheap image. Not surprising perhaps given the wide availability of discounted supermarket own-labels and heavily promoted big brands (many of them good by the way). Isn't it time that the better quality and more unusual Cavas, which you find everywhere in Catalunya and to a lesser extent the rest of Spain, got more of a look-in? The large producers are bound to export some of their quirkier styles that must end up in small quantities in independent wine merchants, so browse for longer next time you pop into your local specialist shop. In Spain, I find you can generally buy a really nice bottle of Cava for €5 or more, sometimes for only €3 or €4 (it's not really worth buying the cheapest ones); and if you 'splash out' (hardly) €7 to €10, you can find some superb quality sparkling wines. Just remember to bring a couple of polystyrene bottle packs with you so you can take some back in your suitcase (otherwise the toast will be on airport security).
This mini-guide includes certain wines savoured previously (2006/2007), some of which you'll find elsewhere on the site, side by side with more recent recommendations (my autumn/winter collection 2007/2008); and will be updated throughout the year, as and when I discover suitably tasty Cavas... Richard James 31/1/08.

UNDER 5 €UROS

Arvisa
Celler de l'Avi, Brut Nature Reserva (11.5%) - fine mix of lively crisp and dry v oily biscuity flavours and texture, easy drinking stuff yet elegant and well-made. I think it's an own-label for this wine shop in Calella. April 08: 87-89

Marqués de Sarnella (J.A.P. Roura)
Brut Nature
(11.5%) - enticing mixture of quite rich, toasty and oat biscuits with almost 'sweet' fruited texture v crisp dry bite and intensity; ludicrous bargain at €3.25, on offer at Alcampo supermarkets (the Spanish guise for Auchan). March 08: 89

Cavas Lavernoya www.lavernoya.com
Heretat de Lácrima Baccus Gran Reserva Brut Nature (11.5%) - extraordinary stuff for €4.95 (old stock perhaps, this is a ridiculous bargain?) tasting like mature vintage Champagne: rich toasted yeast with oxidising almond, hazelnut and honey notes; rounded and full with tangy v rich-baked oat cake flavours, still quite lively and fine on the finish. March 2008: 92+
More Lavernoya cavas to follow shortly tasted at Alimentaria, March 2008 Barcelona.

Castillo Perelada (see below for the most recent) www.castilloperelada.com
Brut Reserva (Macabeu Parellada Xarel.lo) - elegant floral almond and biscuit aromas, more chocolatey on the palate with crisp dry and tight length. Nice with chocolate and coconut sponge. On offer (usually over €5), summer 2006: 88
Brut Rosado (Monastrell Garnacha) - enticingly frothy summer fruits' cocktail, leading to fresh choco-nut and off-dry finish. On offer (usually over €5), summer 2006: 90

Jaume Serra
Brut Nature
quite classy with toasted almond and floral aromas, fuller waxy mouth-feel v crisp and dry finish. Bargain. November 2007:
87+
Rosado Brut Reserva (Pinot Noir Trepat 11.5%) - earthy meaty even with peppery undertones combine with roast almonds and squashed strawberries; rounded and ripe fruity with tangy rhubarb flavours too, fairly dry fresh finish. A bit strange but nice with it. May 2007: 87

Bach (see below for more) www.codorniu.com
Extrísimo Brut Natural
light and crisp, quite tight palate lacking a bit of richness perhaps, not so dry but quite attractive. January 2008: 85
Extrísimo Brut Natural
(same as above) - light and elegant with underlying oily, nutty and appley characters; fresh, fairly long and crisp finish. February 2006: 85+

Cava Blancher, Capdevila Pujol www.blancher.es
Brut Natural Reserva especial Antoni Capdevila Pujol (11.5%) - toasty yeasty nose with chocolate cake notes, fine constant bubbles although not that fizzy; crisp acidity v rich Brazil nut flavours, very dry v rounder texture. What a find. January 2008: 88-90

Pere Camps
Reserva Brut (Chardonnay Macabeu Xarel.lo, 11.5%) – good stuff for the money: delicately yeasty with acacia honey notes, fresh off-dry finish. October 2007: 85+

Castellblanch www.castellblanch.es
Brut Zero Reserva
(11.5%) - subtle quality fizz showing apple and biscuit characters, hazelnut oily texture and refreshing finish. March 2006 and November 2007: 89

Castell d'Olèrdola
Brut Reserva (Macabeu Xarel.lo Parellada, 11.5%) - subtle floral citrus and bread aromas, tight refreshing mouth-feel with just a hint of yeasty roundness, dry crisp finish. Feb 2008: 85

Cases Ribalta
Brut Nature (Macabeu Xarel.lo Parellada, 11.5%) - elegant fizz with quite intense almond biscuit flavours, lightly oily texture then fresher finish. On offer, April 2006: 87

5 TO 10 €UROS

Cases Ribalta
Brut Nature (same as above, full price) – quite refined and delicate with nutty oily flavours v fresh long and very dry finish. January 2008: 87-89

Bach
Reserva de la Masia Brut (Macabeu Xarel.lo Chardonnay 11.5%) - fairly rich and biscuity, ample and rounded with complex flavours and fine bubbles & length. January & March 2008: 90-92

Conde de Caralt
Blanc de Blancs Brut (11.5%) - flowery and elegant tones lead on to an oily creamy palate with light yeasty tang and freshness, delicate bubbles too. January 2008: 87

Mont Marçal www.mont-marcal.com
Reserva Brut
(11.5%) - quite fine bubbles with subtle baked bread and floral tones; elegantly oily texture with yeasty appley bite v fuller honeyed flavours, crisp and quite intense finish. February 2008: 89

Segura Viudas
Brut Reserva – pretty benchmark style showing a touch of class yet more importantly refreshing drinking: nice balance of light yeasty/toasty and crisp & clean. November 2007:
87
1994 Brut Vintage – I don't think this bottle was showing that well (maybe ever so slightly corked?); however, it was appley and honeyed with fresh bite, a bit lighter than I expected though. December 2007:
87

Raimat
Brut Nature Mètode Tradicional (Pinot Noir Chardonnay Xarel.lo, 12%) - from the tiny Costers del Segre DO zone but still in Catalonia. This really quite fine and flavoursome sparkling wine, shaped by similar production methods to Champagne, comes from outside the Cava area. Fairly rich, buttery and tropical fruit gives way to developing yeasty complexity with fresh, dry and elegant length. Brut Nature means no added dosage, i.e. not sweetened with less than 4 grams natural residual sugar; so pretty dry to you and me. March 2006: 90+

Castillo Perelada www.castilloperelada.com
Brut Reserva (Macabeu Parellada Xarel.lo, 11.5%) – 15 months bottle ageing on the lees: fine nose with subtle yeast intensity and honeyed undertones, crisp and mouth-watering making you want to sip more. January 2008: 89
2002 Brut Nature (Macabeu Parellada Xarel.lo) - You'll think it's Champagne: really quite refined with subtle intensity of yeasty oily almond flavours, crisp elegant length and very dry refreshing finish. February 2006: 90+

Codorníu
1551 Brut Nature - attractive mix of freshness and youthful citrus fruit v fuller waxier texture, very dry and a touch austere perhaps. January 2008: 87

Eudald Massana Noya
Brut Nature Família
(11.5% organic) - fine and subtle Cava with delicate yeast, honey and almond oil notes; lightly nutty palate with fresh citrus, tight zesty and dry finish. Feb 2008: 89

Parxet
Brut (11.5%) - tasty and classy Cava that makes you want to sip more, lovely balance between toasty baked bread richness and fresh crispness, rounder and seems less dry than some of the others although long and stylish. Nearer 10 than 5 euros. Feb 2008: 90-92

OVER 10 €UROS

Castillo Perelada www.castilloperelada.com
2004 Gran Claustro Brut Nature (Pinot Noir Macabeu Chardonnay) – their top Cava and the only one still aged in Peralada's (different spelling in Catalan) old castle cellars on traditional racks: it doesn't say how long for in their brochure (a secret perhaps), but I'd guess at least 2 years lees ageing in bottle; so the 2004 is youthful at the moment. Complex toasty aromas supported by rich v citrus-tinged fruit; very tight, intense and dry palate with great length, lovely round texture v crisp bite. Needs a few years to blossom. February 2008: 92++

Cava Llopart www.llopart.es
Integral Brut Nature (Parellada
Chardonnay Macabeu, 11.5%, 18-24 months bottle ageing, 2 gr/l RS) - very fresh, floral & fruity aromas lead on to a lively palate lined with subtle chocolate nut v yeasty tanginess; refreshingly dry and mouth-watering finish. 90-92
2002 Gran Reserva Leopardi Brut Nature (
Macabeu Xarel.lo Parellada Chardonnay, 12%, approx. 4 years ageing, 2 gr/l RS) - richer and toastier showing attractive maturing fruit characters and biscuity coating v fresh and crisp intensity, fine and long finish. 92-94
Microcosmos Rosé Brut Nature (85% Pinot Noir 15% Monastrell, 12%, 2½-3 years ageing, 2 gr/l RS) - fine perfumed red fruit and rose notes moving on to grilled black cherry and dark chocolate mouth-feel, again balanced by fresh intensity & fine acidity; delicious sparkling wine in fact. 95
Ex-Vite Brut (
Xarel.lo Macabeu 12%, 5 years ageing, 5 gr/l RS) - rich cakey nose showing oily baked oat cake flavours, lush coating but again has that trademark fresh acidity plus long and complex finish. 95
All four tasted at Alimentaria, March 2008 Barcelona.

MORE BUBBLY CATALAN BOTTLES COMING SOON!

 


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& Spanish stuff:

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Palacio Vega

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Millésime Bio 2005

Monastrell: Jumilla

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Tasting features 04-05 to follow shortly:
Waitrose
Majestic
Rosé riot

Winery mini-profiles 2005

Tasting features 02-03 to follow shortly:
Cava Penedès
CVNE Contino
Mas La Plana
Mucho Español

Roussillon winery snapshots
'North Catalonia': over 60 estates and co-ops 'profiled'

(watch out for FBI serial killers!)

 

Perelada Brut Reserva from www.castilloperelada.com