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Château
Guilhem -
Malepère
Bertrand Gourdou-Guilhem has taken over at the winemaking
helm at this well-known property found on the southern side of AOC
Malepère,
on the edge of the quiet village of Malviès...
Work in
progress!
Good reds made from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec; a
lively dry rosé and decent Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
The old family
château,
built in Revolutionary times, is cute too, although a little neglected: future
renovation plans (the focus has been on upgrading vineyard and winery) might
include converting it into an up-market chambres d’hote. Every year a parcel is
left unharvested to celebrate the Fete des Vendanges in October, when customers
and friends are invited to pick the last grapes and join in a charity event.
Wines and more text to follow...
Le Château, 11300
Malviès. Tel: 04 68 31 14
41, contact@chateauguilhem.com
or
bgourdou@chateauguilhem.com;
www.chateauguilhem.com.
Château de Brau - Cabardès
Cabardès AOC is found to the north of Carcassonne and is trying to push a
'west meets east' image, with varying degrees of success. The region is planted
with a mix of Mediterranean, Rhone, southwest and Bordeaux varieties; and
further afield too with Chardy, Sauvignon, Pinot Noir etc. cropping up
more and more. As you approach from further east or south in the Languedoc, the weather
can quickly change once you're in or beyond Carcassonne (sometimes rainier or
colder in the winter yet hotter in the summer too), as if there
actually is some kind of Atlantic-cum-continental karma at play; even though you're
still much nearer to the Med here. While Cabardès has (had?) its fair share of rather
ordinary wines (nothing unusual about that then), there's a burgeoning band
of top estates coming to the fore such as Château de Brau and the others
featured below this profile. For more info on Cabardès producers and to get
hold of a copy of their handy little wine trail in English (includes a few
hotels, restaurants etc. as well), contact
aoc-cabardes@wanadoo.fr or check
out
www.aoc-cabardes.com.
Back to Brau. This charming, unpretentious and quite sizeable (40 ha/100 acre) estate is owned by Gabriel and Wenny Tari and farmed organically:
certified back in 1989 in fact with the youngest Syrah and Pinot being
converted. It's split roughly into two big chunks - one around the
winery and chateau, the other just off in the distance on rolling slopes at slightly
higher altitude - with natural borders formed by the river to the south (a
tributary of the Aude) and wilder countryside to the north. Unusually, they have
15 different varieties planted, mostly red including oddities such as Fer
Servadou (from the southwest) and Egiodola, a crossing of Fer and Abourriou (que?!).
Their Cabardès red blends are particularly impressive, although so is the Pinot
Noir (rare to find good examples in the south) and other varietal wines like
Cabernet Franc. The property is well signposted from the
tricky-to-pronounce village of Villemoustaussou, and individuals or small groups
are preferred by appointment.
What I also like about Gabriel and Wenny Tari,
apart from nice wines, is their openness in poking fun at established so-called
wisdom, or rather the usual clichés rolled out by some growers. This snippet from their brochure
gives you a taster and also
shows we must be kindred spirits, reflecting a line from the intro blurb on my
homepage (an attempt at humour, if you bothered to read
it and are a Monty Python fan): "We have not been growing wines since Roman times. We are farmers...
modern-day peasants and have been for a long time... we don't have an
exceptional terroir, just good land for vineyards of which we've ploughed every
inch and which we've revived according to organic principles over the last 20
years" (not my translation by the way). Hats off.
The following wines were tasted at Millésime Bio, Perpignan January 2008,
and/or in situ when I visited in April 08.
2006 Pinot Noir 'Pure', Vin de Pays d'Oc -
touch of toasty chocolate oak leads on to attractive 'sweet and savoury' Pinot
fruit, juicy mouth-feel v fresh bite and tannins; with a little air the oak
drops revealing more silky Pinot character, surprising considering it's made
from young vines too. 89-91
2005 Domaine Majelus Merlot - smoky plum and
cassis notes, nice ripe edges with 'tar' and liquorice v grip and fresh acidity.
87+
2006 Cuvée Château, Cabardès (Merlot
Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon) - nice mix of herbal
pepper and ripe smoky fruit, again solid tannins v ripeness and power v
lightness of touch. 89-91
2006 Cuvée Exquise, Cabardès (Syrah Merlot Cabernet
Sauvignon and sometimes Grenache too) -
different from above, more berry fruit with light mint tones then liquorice on
the palate v dry grip from textured tannins; less charming now perhaps but could
blossom. 88+
2005 Le Suc de Brau, Cabardès (Syrah Cabernet
Sauvignon) - more peppery and rustic with light coco oak, black cherry
and cassis; powerful chunky and quite concentrated palate v rich smoky liquorice
and black fruit layered on its firm solid framework.
90-92
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
'Pure' - attractive juicy cassis enhanced by smoky prune tones,
quite elegant finish actually. 87-89
2006 Cabernet Franc - pretty ripe and spicy
v red pepper notes but mostly full and rounded in style, very appealing wine.
87-89
2006 Fer
Servadou - a little reduced and funky
on the nose but this is concentrated, peppery, rustic and rich; nicely handled
tannins and finish too. 88-90
2006 Egiodola - a bit stalky and closed on
the nose, reveals more in the mouth with lively spicy tart aromatic damson v
darker fruit and liquorice; quite concentrated with very grippy tannins and
fresh acidity, different for sure! 87+
2006 Syrah - less exciting to be
honest, although made from young vines so we'll see.
2007 Domaine de Brau Chardonnay-Roussanne
(12.5%) - nice peachy v yeast leesy style with a bit of depth and crisp finish.
85+
Domaine de Brau,
11620 Villemoustaussou. Tel: 04 68 72 31 92,
chateaudebrau@aliceadsl.fr.
 Château
de Pennautier / Vignobles Lorgeril - Cabardès, Minervois, St-Chinian,
Faugères,
Roussillon, Corbières.
The Lorgeril family wine empire, based at this marvellous aristocratic 17th-Century
Château
(pictured, currently undergoing lengthy renovations) in Cabardès
country northwest of Carcassonne, now not only takes in many appellations and
promising estates in the Languedoc, but they've also recently dipped their toe
into French Catalan territory by purchasing vineyards in Côtes du Roussillon
Villages AOC. They
own two other properties
in the Carcassonne
area, Château La Bastide and Château de Caunettes, all adding up to a
significant amount of total Cabardès production; plus another leading one in
Minervois-La-Livinière called La Borie Blanche; as well as having interests in
or partnerships with domaines in
Saint-Chinian, Faugères
and Corbières. Which makes them a pretty formidable player in the South.
Although
overall the company produces quite a lot of wine including a wide range of AOC
blends and Vin de Pays varietals - such as a fairly benchmark, chunky
barrel-fermented Chardonnay, a handful of good rosés and reds full of character
- their top
Cabardès
wine called L’Esprit, made from Syrah, Cabernet and/or Merlot, develops real
complexity after five years ageing and certainly makes a serious quality statement (see
below).
Back in Pennautier on the wine tourism front, the mini-empire also has a
campsite and gîte complex adjoining the chateau’s grounds and good wine
bar/restaurant/wine shop located on the left as you arrive in the village, next
to the winery just before the bridge, where you can taste from the whole
Lorgeril range. If you want to visit the chateau itself (just over the bridge on
the right), and after they've finished all the work, you’ll need to make an
appointment. The wines below were
sampled at Vinisud Montpellier,
February 2008, and/or in situ when I visited in April 08.
2006
Sauvignon Blanc,
Vin de Pays d'Oc (13%) - oily
ripe citrus style finishing with fresh crisp bite. 85
2006 Chardonnay (13%) - again shows nice ripe peachy fruit in a Chile style,
quite concentrated actually then crisp with fair length.
85-87
2007
Viognier (13%) - zesty
and aromatic
with lightly exotic fruit, citrus flavours too v weight and fatness.
85
2005 Marquis de Pennautier blanc,
Vin de Pays d'Oc (Roussanne
Marsanne Bourboulenc Grenache blanc 13%) -
waxy mature almost botrytis nose, creamy palate with nutty maturity v citrus
too; very attractive food white and still just alive.
87
2006 Marquis de Pennautier,
Chardonnay
Terroirs d'Altitude - light toast and
oatmeal enhanced by exotic and oily flavours/textures, a bit flabby and toasty
but it's quite crisp too.
85
2005 Marquis de Pennautier
Chardonnay
- much richer exotic fruit v still tight
acidity lending a little freshness; ripe oily oatmeal, chunky maturing 'sweet'
fruit and subtle toast then cleaner length.
87-90
2007 Mouline de Ciffre, Languedoc
rosé
- strawberry and raspberry fruit; crisp
and dry v rounded, lightly creamy and sturdy even.
85+
2007 L'Orangerie de Pennautier
rosé
(12.5%) - fresh rose petal and crunchy red
fruits, zesty & crisp v nice depth of fruit.
87
2007
Château de
Pennautier,
Cabardès
rosé
(13%) - similar to above two yet has tighter structure and zingier length v a
bit fuller and chunkier. 87+
2006
Château de
Pennautier,
Cabardès
red
(13.5%) - bright cassis / black cherry with light red pepper and redcurrant notes; quite grippy
v vibrant lightly
creamy fruit, dry v 'sweet' texture. 85-87
2003
Château de
Pennautier,
Cabardès Collection Privée - attractive smoky development showing
savoury leather,
liquorice and raisin edges; still pretty firm but concentrated, powerful and
balanced in the end thanks to maturing fruit and rounded v dry texture.
89-91
2001 Esprit
de
Pennautier,
Cabardès (Syrah
Cabernet
13.5%) - smoky herbal & complex, maturing meaty fruit with liquorice, dark
cherry and chocolate tones;
concentrated and rich v solid tannins, lovely savoury/sweet fruit
v power and length.
94
2000
Esprit
de
Pennautier,
Cabardès
(Syrah
Merlot)
- mature v herbal nose, rich fruit v big tannins, attractive ripeness turning
savoury with leather and mushroom.
92-94
2006 La Borie Blanche,
Minervois
(14%) - smoky rustic notes enhanced by delicious wild black
fruits and herbal mint tones, ripe yet dry tannins set on a juicy fruit finish; very attractive.
The next time I found it more austere and not quite right, must have been a
funny bottle. So we'll go with initial score.
87-89
2006 Mouline de Ciffre,
Saint-Chinian
- more extracted and less charming now but
it has underlying blackberry fruit v those solid tannins.
87
2003 Les Hauts de l'Enclos des Bories,
Minervois-La-Livinière
- still quite youthful with peppery black cherry fruit
and liquorice v meaty edges; very firm tannins lined with more liquorice, pretty
powerful alcohol (welcome to 2003) but it works, just. Wow indeed.
90-92
2003 Les Hauts de la Borie Blanche,
Minervois-La-Livinière
- subtle oak with menthol and spicy black cherry, very concentrated with
extracted tannins but it's well-balanced. Not sure what the difference is to
above wine but my notes aren't the same anyway.
92+
2007
Château de Ciffre
Faugères,
Terroirs d'Altitude (barrel sample) - gorgeous spicy vibrant fruit with subtle
depth on the palate, promising although don't leave it in oak for too long!
89-91
2007
Château de Ciffre,
Saint-Chinian
(barrel sample) - the property straddles both AOCs by the way.
More lifted perfumed Syrah style, chunky mouth-feel with liquorice and spice;
yum.
90-92
2007 Mas des Montagnes,
Côtes du
Roussillon
Villages (vat sample) - nice fruit and spicy liquorice Grenache style, grip v
ripe and rounded. 85+
2007 Mas des Montagnes Terroirs d'Altitude,
Côtes du
Roussillon
Villages
(cask sample) - similar fruit but much more concentrated, firm tannins v vibrant
liquorice with savoury leather edges.
89
2006 Domaine des Causses,
St-Chinian
(13%) - a bit thinner than the others, OK
but lacking.
80
2006 La Combe des Oliviers,
Corbières (70%
Mourvèdre 13%) -
attractive resiny ripe nose leads on to a 'sweet' v spicy palate; good depth,
style and length & balance of fruit concentration v tannins. Aromatic
Bandol-esque liquorice, black olive and tea notes; lush fragrant fruit v grippy
tannins v weight. 90-92
2003 Les
Cèdres,
Vin de Pays d'Oc (Syrah
Malbec) - nice mix of 'sweet 'n' sour' with very chunky fruit and
tannins, rustic v tangy finish showing real depth too.
92+
2005 Pinot Noir, Le Clos de St-Jean - pretty
tight and closed with fresh acidity, background wood and elegant fruit; not
getting much, needs airing perhaps.
Route de
Carcassonne, 11610 Pennautier.
Tel:
04 68 72 65 29,
contact@vignobles-lorgeril.com,
www.vignobles-lorgeril.com.
Domaine Escourrou -
Work in
progress!
Guy and
Arnaud Escourrou are a father and son team making excellent red Cabardès.
Arnaud’s flagship wine, called
‘La Régalona’ (selected
Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and occasionally Merlot) shows great depth of fruit,
structure and ageing potential . The wine has created quite a stir in the region
and further afield in Bordeaux even, where a leading critic praised it very
highly (allegedly thinking it was a Pomerol!). Arnaud has also launched a Régalona project in Chile using the same
quality philosophy and varieties. So an
appointment is advisable as he spends several months away from their unassuming
home in the sleepy village of Ventenac, although dad is an equally enthusiastic
host.
Wines and more text to follow...
6 avenue de la Viale,
11610 Ventenac-Cabardès. Tel: 04-68-24—92-30 / mobile
06 17 40 54 31
Email:
arnaud.cabardes@wanadoo.fr /
contact@laregalona.fr Web:
www.regalona.fr
Domaine de Cabrol - Cabardès
Claude Carayol and his team work 21 handsome hectares of vines
planted on this elevated
- up to 300 metres / 950 feet altitude in parts - sprawling estate (the remaining 100
or so ha are scented scrubland and forest), out of which they coax a
handful of exciting red wines. The most representative are perhaps the following three rich solid
blends: Vent d’Ouest, or West Wind made mainly from Cabernet Sauvignon, Vent d’Est
- East Wind with Syrah predominating - and the dense age-worthy La Dérive; which
are up there among
the
Cabardès appellation’s best wines (as long as you like chunky tannins) and
reflect its philosophy in terms of varieties and the sites where they perform
best. Access to the domaine is through an old gated wall on the left off the
D118 road heading north from Carcassonne towards Mazamet, just after the village
of Villegailhenc, where vineyards and landscape begin to get sparser
and wilder before merging into the ominous Montagne Noire (Black Mountain
obviously).
See website below for more details, but basically they're open for tasting from
11am-12pm (except in winter) and 5-7pm every day (earlier in the summer)
including Saturdays: ring first anyway. Claude sells his wines mostly to
wine merchants and restaurants in France, so is probably as yet undiscovered in
English speaking wine circles... these three were
sampled in situ when I visited in April
2008.
2005 Vent d'Est (mostly
Syrah 13.5%) - attractively floral, rustic
tinged black cherry
nose; moves on to tight, firm and fresh mouth-feel layered with dark chocolate
and cherry fruit; needs a little time to open up.
89+
2003 Vent d'Ouest (mostly
Cabernet Sauvignon) - nice herbal cassis and mint aromas
with peppery undertones; dense palate, grippy v lush, 'sweet' v bitter twist;
still pretty chunky and concentrated.
90+
2003 La Dérive
(Cabernets Syrah Grenache) - smoky and liquoricey, again dense and
extracted but it works, rich fruit v very firm tannins then savoury tang on the
finish; wow, still youthful really. 92+
11600
Aragon.
Tel:
04 68 77 19 06,
cc@domainedecabrol.fr,
www.domaine-de-cabrol.com.
 Domaines
Paul Mas - Coteaux du Languedoc & Pays d'Oc
Domaine de Nicole, one of four Mas family properties in the Pézenas area and now
their HQ, has been refitted to house a tasteful tasting/reception area and shop
with an enlarged "wine tourism site," including a restaurant, due to open in
late 2008. If they get the planning permission through soon, that is (a somewhat
French case of bureaucracy over progress it seems). A Languedoc modernist with
irreverent labels like Arrogant Frog (the wine’s good too) and excellent
varietal Vins de Pays such as La Forge Merlot, Chardonnay or Viognier;
Jean-Claude Mas and brother Michel also produce serious, more 'traditional'
Languedoc reds such as Château Paul Mas (see vertical tasting of five vintages
below) and Les Faïsses. In addition, they've now launched wines from a recently
converted organic vineyard plus three new 'single terroir' reds called Mas des
Mas from the 2006 vintage (also below), which show great promise and firmly knock on
the head any thoughts that they're all marketing (although they're pretty good at that
too). Oh, guess which country is one of their main export markets? Australia!
Click on the pic above or here for more
wines and older vintages tasted between 2004-2006. The ones below were sampled at Vinisud Montpellier, February 2008:
2006 Château Paul Mas (all five are mostly
Syrah
plus
Grenache
Mourvèdre)
- showing spicy coco oak layered with lovely black cherry fruit and peppery
tones, attractive textured tannins balanced by depth of fruit, well-handled oak
and power on the finish. About £10 in the UK, available shortly at Majestic. 90-92
2005 Château Paul Mas - a touch smokier and richer v firmer and more powerful
palate, yet still ripe, rounded and showing great balance of oak/tannins/fruit;
lovely concentration v solid grip, the alcohol is a little more noticeable but it
works in this wine. 92-94
2004 Château Paul Mas - much more developed than the last time
I tasted it two years ago (obviously
perhaps but you know what I mean), showing complex liquorice and leather notes;
'sweet' peppery palate with solid structure, grippy tannins yet elegant finish.
92-94
2003 Château Paul Mas - dried fruits, leather and complex herbal v savoury nose;
stonky tannins and weight v big rich fruit and power. 90-92
2002 Château Paul Mas - maturing rustic tones with leather and liquorice,
further delicious liquorice fruit and savoury tobacco edges on the palate; again
still firm tannins but nicely layered, drinking well now.
92-94
2006 Les Tannes Cabernet - Merlot (organic) - nice herbal v tobacco nose with
ripe cassis, tangy tannins and quite concentrated & fine finish.
87-89
2006 Mas des Mas, Pézenas (mostly
Mourvèdre)
- quite closed on the nose, showing tight structure and quite austere in style,
oak textured but very concentrated and long. Needs a year or two to open up.
90-92
2006 Mas des Mas, Terrasses de Larzac (more Syrah)
- again structured and powerful but a bit richer with black cherry Syrah style;
chocolate oak background to its concentrated, firm and commanding finish, yet
well-balanced too. 92-94
2006 Mas des Mas, Grés de Montpellier (50%
Mourvèdre)
- more black fruits and liquorice in style and a tad more savoury too, also
peppery with subdued oak; very firm tannins and big weight v 'sweet' fruit and
black pepper coming back on its promising finish. 94+?
2007 'lower alcohol' Viognier (10%) - surprisingly characterful, aromatic and
faintly exotic with fresh finish; winemakers normally say Viognier isn't an
interesting variety unless fully ripe therefore 13-14-15% even.
80-85
2007 Enigma (late harvested Chardonnay
blended with 10% Muscat and 20%
Viognier both fermented dry, leaving 30 grams/litre
residual sugar) - quite exotic v fresh citrus tones, doesn't seem very sweet
thanks to its refreshing crisp finish. Nice wine. 87
Stop-press April 08: Jean-Claude had seven wines selected in the 'Top 100 Vins de Pays' competition, an annual tasting held in Britain aimed at the trade.
They were
La Forge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 (Trophy
for best Cab Sauv), Arrogant Frog Ribet White Chardonnay/Viognier
2007, Claude Val Rosé 2007, Paul Mas Rosé de Syrah 2007, La Forge Estate Merlot
2007, Paul Mas Merlot 2007 and Paul Mas Cabernet Sauvignon 2007.
Domaine de Nicole, Route de Villeveyrac, 34120
Montagnac. Tel: 04 67 90 16 10,
info@paulmas.com,
www.paulmas.com.
 Clos
du Gravillas – Minervois
Nicole,
and later American John Bojanowski (becoming husband: "I
just came here to drive the tractor," he quipped), arrived
in the timeless Languedoc outback almost ten years ago. They have
since planted Syrah, Mourvèdre, Counoise, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Viognier, Marsanne and Muscat among others, to
complement Nicole's original 1 ha/2.5 acres of cherished 1911
Carignan and Grenache Gris. The estate now amounts to over 6 ha
planted with no less than 13 grape varieties (a bit of a ner-nerdy-ner-ner
to Chateauneuf-du-Pape perhaps?); all found on a 300m/950
foot-altitude plateau composed of the meagre chalky gravel soils
that surround the tiny village of Saint-Jean, set in a stunning
remote spot between the gorges of St-Chinian and the old
Mediaeval city of Minerve (a must-visit when you're in the area).
Their signature reds Le Rendez-Vous du Soleil and Lo Vièlh
are made from old-vine Carignan (the above mentioned, almost 100
year old plus 1 ha planted in 1952 and relatively youthful 1970): John is a big fan of this
sometimes unloved variety and founder-member of a growers' group
called Carignan Renaissance, who are actively shouting about
their wines crafted from this awkward Med grape (see
www.carignans.com). The
family (there is a petit Bojanowski) also rents out the converted old
village café, a two-bedroom gîte with terrace and
quite nice view! Details are on their website below. I tasted
these wines with John on a visit in sunny but chilly late
November 2007:
2006
L'Inattendu,
Minervois blanc (Grenache
gris Grenache blanc,
14%) - milky and toasty with honeysuckle notes; full, rounded and
quite rich finishing with attractive bite and freshness.
87+
2005
Vous en Voulez en Voilà,
Vin de Pays Côtes du Brian (that's a local river, by the
way, rather than Monty Python homage; made from all reds except
Grenache, 13.5%) - ripe blackberry/currant, floral and spicy with
liquorice tones; rounded and fruity palate v serious edges as
well, firm and quite long.
89+
2003
Le Rendez-Vous du Soleil (Carignan
plus a touch of Cab Sauv)
– maturing smoky and white peppery, quite complex;
liquorice and tobacco flavoured palate, concentrated and lush
with fresh tannins and bite; very nice wine.
90+
2006
Muscat de
Saint-Jean de Minervois
– very
floral and perfumed with white peach notes, the sweetness is
nicely cut by alcohol and acidity, so it doesn't end up so sweet.
87
Clos
du Gravillas, 34360
Saint-Jean
de Minervois.
Tel: 04
67 38 17 52, nicole@closdugravillas.com
or
john@closdugravillas.com,
www.closdugravillas.com
or
www.gravillas.com
 Domaine
Siméoni – Saint-Chinian
Cordial
couple Sylvie and Franck Siméoni plunged themselves into
running their domaine
organically right from the start: they set up shop in the region
in 2001, after leaving jobs in the north to try and make a living
in Saint-Chinian wine country. Out of the several cuvées
they make, their La Toure (mostly 100+ year-old Carignan from
this namesake vineyard) and L'Ame des Schistes (usually Syrah and
Mourvèdre) stand out in particular for this scribbler's
palate. They also do some tasty and fun Vin de Pays varietals, quirkily
labelled with a sense of humour: a stripy Mourvèdre red
and rosé, a Syrah called La Tête à l'Envers
('head inside out' or 'wrong way round') and a Carignan Vin de
Crise ('crisis wine')!
Click here for notes on some of these,
tasted at Millésime Bio in 2006.
Commendably and
bravely (purely because it might be perceived as un-trendy or
down-market by toasted plank fans), they stopped using any wood
for ageing their wines in 2002. Other 'house secrets' include
"preferring to pick everything very ripe then do less
extraction during vinification," as Franck explained his
non-rocket-science approach. This year (2008) sees the launch of
a new chunky Syrah rosé (see below); and the Siméonis
have purchased a further 5 ha of vineyard, which is gradually
being converted to organics. If you're in the area, it's best to
make an appointment as their time is divided between
Prades-sur-Vernazobre (home/office), the cellar in
Cazouls-lès-Béziers and vineyard plots found here
and there between the two.
I
tasted these
2007
samples from the vats in Cazouls on
a sunny but chilly (especially in that cellar, not surprisingly)
late November day, 2007:
2007
Rosé de
Syrah,
St-Chinian (14%) - delicious fruit on a crisp and zingy yet
weighty palate, very drinkable and stylish foodie rosé.
87
2007
Aramon -
attractive
juicy boiled sweet aromas lead on to tangy redcurrant and
strawberry flavours, fresh and gluggable.
2007
Cinsault - delicious black
cherry, rounded tasty and fresh.
2007
Grenache
– gorgeous
fruit and ripe rounded mouth-feel, fair grip too with the 15%+
alcohol not so obvious (this will be blended anyway). Very
promising.
2007
Syrah + 10%
Carignan
– spicy and
vibrant showing very ripe dark cherry fruit. Good stuff.
2007
La Toure (1
ha/2.5 acres of 1898
Carignan)
– incredible colour with superb spicy blackberry and
perfumed violets, concentrated and powerful with fresh elegant
length. Wow, should be stunning after it settles down a
little.
2007 the remaining
Carignan
– crisper and
more closed up but again shows nice fruit and style.
2007
Mourvèdre
– black olive
with lively almost citrus tones, austere tannins yet it's very
fruity with chunky concentrated finish. Another future star
probably.
2001
Domaine Siméoni rouge (their
first vintage blend aged in American oak) – maturing
savoury edges with leather and dried cherry fruit, quite
sumptuous and savoury on the finish.
89
Route
de Berlou, 34360
Prades-sur-Vernazobre. Tel/fax:
04
67 93 78 92, mobile: 06 99 40 66 62,
simeoni5@aol.com,
www.domainesimeoni.com
 Borie
La Vitarèle – Saint-Chinian
Certified
organic and farmed along biodynamic lines by Cathy Planès
and Jean François Izarn, this charming 16 ha/40 acre property is lost in
the countryside beyond the village co-op (although
well-signposted). Their Saint-Chinian appellation wines are labelled by
vineyard site such as Les Schistes (two types of schist,
obviously) or Terres Blanches (chalk & clay), reflecting
the varieties planted, nurtured and cropped across different plots
and soils. They also appear to have been quite
successful with Cabernet and Merlot in this area since setting
up the domaine in 1990.
Cathy
and Jean François can also provide
full-blown meals in their
cosy
'ferme-auberge' (farmhouse-inn) for a minimum of ten people if
booked in advance (including
a good dose of
organic
food,
I assume, matched with the
estate's wines),
which
must be a great
way to
integrate
the actual
flavours of their labours, and philosophy, with
good hearty local
produce. I tasted these in November 2007:
2006
La Cuvée des Cigales,
Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Murviel (Grenache
Merlot)
– nice fruity spicy style showing a bit of grip and depth
too, easy drinking and ready to do so.
83-85
2006
Terres Blanches,
St-Chinian (80%
Grenache
20%
Syrah) – attractive rich black cherry fruit with
liquorice tones, quite chunky tannins v fruit concentration,
power and length; needs a few months at least to open up, lovely
length and style.
89-91
2001
La Combe,
Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Murviel (60%
Cabernet Sauvignon
plus
Syrah Merlot)
– appealing volatile complexity and developing fruit, meaty
with perfumed cassis edges; maturing palate v rather stonky
tannins, powerful yet lush finish.
88-90
View
my notes on more BLV wines by
clicking here (Millésime Bio
06) and
here (Montpellier 05).
La Combe, 34490
Causses-et-Veyran.
Tel: 04 67 89 50 43, fax: 04 67 89 70 79;
jf.izarn@libertysurf.fr,
www.borielavitarele.fr
Mas
Champart – Saint-Chinian
Isabelle
and Matthieu Champart, who bought their first vineyard here over
30 years ago, craft an unimpeachable range of mostly reds
(although I'm not that keen on their white - see below - but
it's early days for this kind of style, given that white AOC
wines have only really been coming on-stream for a year or two) at this
secluded 16 ha (planted out of 25), or 40 acre, Saint-Chinian estate. It's
located on the rapid climb, at 200m to 300m altitude (650-950
feet), to the
south of the town just before the hamlet of Cazo; and is
essentially a patchwork
of about
twenty distinct plots. Their star
reds are 'Clos de la Simonette' (mostly
south-facing
vineyard on steep terraces, although one parcel has a more
northerly exposure: the fruit from here is used for rosé,
Matthieu told me in 2005) with at least 70% Mourvèdre and
Grenache; and Causse du Bousquet, a more classic Syrah, Mourvèdre,
Grenache and Carignan blend. By the way, their Mourvèdre
was originally
selected from
Domaine Tempier in Bandol
and Château de Beaucastel, that slightly well-known CNDP
property.
They
have plans to build a
better visitor reception
area
at some point (the cellar is
appealingly small), so you can taste and chat in comfort.
I visited Mas Champart
in late Nov. 2007 and opened
these two bottles shortly
afterwards:
2005
Causse du Bousquet,
St-Chinian (50-60%
Syrah
plus
Grenache
Mourvèdre Carignan
14%) - quite fine mix of ripe v earthy black cherry with very
light cinnamon oak spice; lush concentrated and full v tight firm
framework, restrained finish showing weight and elegance too.
89-91
2006
Saint-Chinian blanc
(Marsanne
Roussanne Bourboulenc Grenache blanc)
– toasty coconut nose with some creamy yeasty notes, full
and rounded with submerged aromatic fruit but overall the oak's a
bit heavy-handed, finishing too overtly woody.
80+
View
my notes on more Champart wines by
clicking here (Vinisud 06) and
here (Montpellier 05).
Bramefan, Route de Villespassans, 34360
Saint-Chinian.
Tel: 04 67 38 20 09 (cellar), 04 67 38 05 59 (office),
mas-champart@wanadoo.fr
Château
L'Euzière – Pic-Saint-Loup
Brother
and sister Michel and Marcelle Causse run this charming, old
family property found on the main road through Fontanès.
Or rather their mini-manor house and winery at least:
the 23 ha/55 acres of vineyard spread out around the village, a mixture of older
vines and more recent plantings as they continue to improve quality in the field. The
top red cuvée,
les Escarboucles, is based mostly on Syrah; L'Almandin is an
earlier-drinking, 'SGM' blend but still quite serious with
aromatic pure fruit; and they also make a very nice white called
Grains de Lune. One to watch and relatively reasonably priced
(PSL commands higher prices than other parts of the Languedoc) at
€6 to €12.50 across their range. These wines sampled in
their cellar
and handsome
vaulted stone tasting room in October 2007:
2006
Almandin
(tank
sample,
Syrah
Grenache Mourvèdre)
– lovely perfumed black cherry with gamey edges developing
into liquorice and violets, firm and fresh showing nice elegance
with a touch of weight and length too.
89
2006
Escarboucles
(barrel
sample, more
Syrah
+
Grenache
Mourvèdre)
– quite a bit of spicy coconut at the moment (12 to 14
months in one year-old casks) but again has that delicious black
cherry fruit, more structured with firmer tannins; closed finish
with dry texture v underlying 'sweetness'.
89-91
2005
– quite
smoky with blackberry and cassis, a little closed up offering
light spice and liquorice tones with gamey edges, rounded v soild
mouth-feel although again it's quite elegant.
90+
More of their wines
here.
Ancien Chemin d’Anduze, 34270
Fontanès.
Tel: 04 67 55 21 41, leuziere@chateauleuziere.fr,
www.chateauleuziere.fr
 Château
La Roque – Pic-Saint-Loup
The
elegantly imposing country château is the first thing that
hits you coming up the dusty gravelly drive: it is indeed made
from rock, although the estate's actually named after an
eponymous 13th Century
noble family. Old rock too: the tasting cellar vault is part of a
restored, former Medieval post-house, I'm told. La Roque is a
long-standing ambassador for the Pic Saint-Loup appellation,
which is found not far north of Montpellier scattered around its
namesake peak (650 metres/2000 feet high), although the Languedoc
capital feels a long way off given how quickly the terrain
transforms into untamed scrub-land and pointy cliff-faces.
La
Roque's specialities include their often superb Cuvée
Mourvèdre, a challenging variety in this area but
rewarding in certain sites in the right hands*; Syrah-based Cupa
Numismae and Clos des Bénédictins, an unusual
barrel fermented white. The property was taken over by Jacques
and Marion Figuette in late 2006 (I didn't have the cheek to ask
them how much €...), who sensibly appear happy not to make
any major changes and have kept prices fairly reasonable, for
such a sought-after name: €7 to €13 a bottle across the
range.
*Previous owner Jack Boutin planted 9 ha/22 acres (out
of 42) of Mourvèdre, which faces due south on steep pebbly
terraces at approx. 200 m/650 ft altitude. Another local
Mourvèdre fan is Jean Orliac at
Domaine
de l’Hortus (Valflaunès),
who has 11 ha ("and increasing" as he told me back in
2005) in one similarly elevated vineyard sitting smack-bang
between Pic St-Loup and Mont de l’Hortus.*
I tasted
these Ch. La Roque wines with Marion Figuette in October
2007:
2005
Tradition blanc (Rolle
Roussanne Marsanne)
– oily honeysuckle tones, nice texture and maturing fruit v
lightly crisp elegant finish.
85-87
2006
Clos des Bénédictins blanc
(Rolle
Roussanne Marsanne)
– toastier and creamier yet very floral with exotic white
peach tones; zingy v fat with attractive balance and style.
87-89
2004
Tradition rouge
(Syrah
Mourvèdre Grenache)
– tangy cassis and cherry fruit, lightly creamy palate with
firm fresh bite, drinking well now in fact.
85-87
2005
– a
touch richer and more concentrated than above with attractive
cherry and liquorice fruit, followed by dry grip and good length.
87-89
2003
Cupa Numismae (60%
Syrah
40% Mourvèdre)
– smoky and slightly animal showing lush dark cherry and
blackberry/olive notes, a bit of spicy oak adds texture to a
solid firm palate; good balance of ripe v structured and maturing
v a few years ahead of it.
89-91
2004
– more
fragrant floral and spicy (the Syrah comes out more), more
delicate mouth-feel yet still juicy lush and firm with elegant
length.
89-91
2005
– closed
and chunky, attractive concentration and rounded fruit, powerful
tannins at the moment which should unfurl nicely.
89-91
2003 Cuvée
Mourvèdre (90%
plus 10%
Grenache)
– 'sweet' herbs liquorice and black olive, ripe with resiny
development, quite delicate actually (considering the hot
vintage) v dry tannins and lovely length.
90-92
2005
– smokier
and a tad toastier yet still 'sweet' herbal and liquoricey,
delicious fruit concentration and fine tannins on a commanding,
mouth-coating finish; yum, give it a couple of years to really
shine.
92-94
Older
La Roque vintages on this page, from a visit in 2005.
Château
La Roque, 34270
Fontanès.
Tel: 04
67 55 34 47,
contact@chateau-laroque.eu,
www.chateau-laroque.eu
Vins Gérard Bertrand - Languedoc
Gérard Bertrand’s little empire seems to be going
places and comprises four properties in some of the best sites in the Languedoc.
Château l’Hospitalet
is an impressive estate with
hotel, restaurant, art gallery and also hosting a jazz festival in the summer.
You'll find it not far from Narbonne-Plage in the unluckily named 'La Clape' sub-appellation, after this 200 metre (650 ft)
mini-range of rocky
hills rising up from the sea (it was an island once). Domaine de Villemajou is located in
the new
Corbières AOC zone Boutenac, Château Laville Bertrou in Minervois la
Livinière and Domaine Cigalus is home to ‘international’ grape varieties.
He makes some lovely varietals from here under the Collection label and has also set up
a joint venture with co-op growers in Tautavel, across the mountains in the
Roussillon.
Tasted October 2006:
2002 Le Blanc de Villemajou
Corbières - ripe exotic nose (perhaps some botrytis
even?) v light coconut, attractive developed fruit with dry mineral finish.
Surprisingly good for a white from here. 87
2004 Château Laville Bertrou Minervois la Livinière (Grenache
Carignan Mourvèdre Syrah,
14.5%) - nice spicy black cherry with perfumed herbal notes, dry grip yet well
integrated tannins; elegant length despite the high alcohol.
89-91
2004
Château de l’Hospitalet
Coteaux du Languedoc, La Clape (Syrah Mourvèdre)
- a bit closed on the nose, opens up to appealing perfumed wild flower and berry
fruit, tight and elegant. 89-91
2003 Domaine de Villemajou Corbières red (mainly
Carignan) - smoky and rustic with richer liquorice
fruit, leather notes v dried fruits; quite firm and powerful.
87-89
2003 Cigalus vin de pays d'Oc (Merlot Cabernet)
- more like plum and blackcurrant fruit, good depth v ripe chocolate tannins; might v
grace, chunky fruit v bite of tannins. 88-90
2003 Le Viala Minervois la Livinière - herbal aromatic black cherry, very
Syrah style; fine dry tannins, quite elegant v weighty and concentrated.
90-92
2003
L’Hospitalitas
Coteaux du Languedoc, La Clape (Mourvèdre
Syrah) - a late ripening parcel: again lifted
garrigue and lavender, concentrated with tight long finish; needs time to
open up. 92-94
2003 La Forge
Corbières (old vine Grenache) - smokier with a
touch of chocolate oak, lovely rich fruit and light leather lead to tight firm
finish; again has nice textured tannins v powerful length (although only 13.5%).
90-92
2000 Banyuls Grand Cru (Grenache, 16.5%) -
complex caramel and prune fruit, lush and sweet v tight tannin & alcohol
structure; beginning to develop nicely. 90-92
Bought in a supermarket August 06:
2003 Domaine Georges Bertrand Corbières Fût de Chêne - dark colour
beginning to turn brown on the edges, lovely smoky leather and liquorice nose
with pungent dark plum and wild herbs; lush and mouth-filling, quite big yet
well made, a touch of tannin v soft ripe fruit. €5
88-90
Consumed (with moderation of course) summer 2007: Gérard Bertrand's new 'Dégustez-le avec...'
branded varietal range
launched into French supermarkets (priced between €3.50 and €4). Features recipe
ideas and a few words of poetry too.
2006 Caressant Grenache
rosé, vin de pays d'Oc (13.5%) - nice lively aromatic fruit set on a
fairly weighty palate, crisp dry and long. 87
2005 Coquin
Cabernet Sauvignon, vin de pays d'Oc
(13.5%) - smoky ripe cassis fruit with leather and liquorice tinges, full and
rustic yet has tight firm framework too. 87
There's a Merlot as well, which was less exciting, and Sauvignon Blanc which I
haven't tried yet...
Fitou
- southern Languedoc
A serene daytrip in late September 2006, taking in
the wine villages
of western Fitou country set the scene ruggedly for discovering these three
wineries below, one big and two small...
 Mont Tauch
- Tuchan
Just a few years off its 100th birthday, Vignerons du Mont Tauch
is one of the most progressive co-operative cellars in southern France. It's
grown bigger over the years combining 4 cellars & 250 growers in and around
Tuchan, Paziols, Villeneuve and Durban, giving them 2000 hectares (nearly
5000 acres) to play with. And this year they formed a partnership with the
united co-ops in Fitou itself and La Palme, near the coast. The massive stainless steel winery would look a little
ugly set anywhere else but, jutting out underneath mighty Mount Tauch itself (picture below),
it creates a pretty dramatic contrast.
The co-op has implemented a comprehensive vineyard management system that tracks
each parcel, and the growers are helped at every stage to improve the quality of
their grapes and environment. They're paid on a graded
scale - and can be 'demoted' if necessary - that takes into account vine age, pruning, yields, disease, picking,
ultimate wine type etc. So,
for Les Douze (see below) I'm told you can actually trace the grapes to those 12 growers,
who might not be the same ones every year. Les Quatre is sourced from four
growers' (Robert, Christophe, Juliette and Jean-Régis) best plots in a high
altitude vineyard near Paziols. 120 core growers (over ¾ of the vineyard area) have now taken the plunge into
sustainable viticulture aiming to reduce chemical treatments "significantly":
hopefully the others will too. MT wines are widely available in the UK, Sweden,
Belgium and Canada.
Le
Village du Sud fun range of vin de pays d'Oc varietals - click to see
the cartoon pic of
the label. The Merlot, Chardonnay and Rosé are available in the UK at Co-op
stores for £3.99:
2005
Chardonnay - (a bit cold to taste) simple clean style, dry and crisp
with light peach and citrus fruit; lacks a bit of character but it's OK.
2005 Rosé (Grenache) - zingy and dry with light red
fruits, a bit stripped perhaps.
2005 Merlot - plum and currant notes showing
a touch of Merlot character, fruity with dry tannins; a bit lean but OK.
2005 Syrah - nice peppery black cherry
style, has more substance and grip. 82-84
2005 Mont Tauch
Corbières (50-50
Carignan Grenache) -
appealing berry and liquorice style,
light fruit v a bit of grip.
82-84
2005 Mont Tauch Fitou (Carignan Grenache
Syrah)
- a bit richer and spicier
with light tobacco tones, attractive firmness v fruit.
83-85
2004 Les Douze Fitou (Carignan Grenache
Syrah, 14%) - nice smoky ripe fruit, good weight v light
tannins; subtle background oak and earthiness v 'sweetness'.
85-87
2004 Les Quatre Fitou (Carignan Grenache
Syrah, 14.5%) - perfumed coconut oak but not overdone,
good depth of fruit v power and grip, quite long. 87-89
2004 L'Exception Fitou (Syrah Grenache
Carignan
selected from
Tuchan and Paziols) - aromatic liquorice and black fruits with light
layer of chocolate oak, concentrated powerful and structured finish; better than
when first launched (previously too oaky). 89-91
 The
3V range - Vins Vents Vignerons (wine wind grape-growers: blustery
climate rather than local eating habits) - consists of
small batch high quality cuvées, so far only available in France in restaurants
and wine shops; but I'd be surprised if they don't crop up in Britain or
elsewhere sooner rather than later. Tasted Oct-Nov 06:
2004 Montmal Fitou (Syrah Carignan Grenache,
14%) - closed up and unrevealing at first, better with a bit of air: touch of
oak turning black cherry then more savoury, quite elegant tight mouth-feel;
underwhelming in a positive way, quite like it in the end.
87+
2001 Château de Montmal Fitou (Syrah Carignan Grenache,
14.5%) - 12 ha (30 acre) vineyard in Villeneuve: rich and smoky with savoury leather notes, powerful and structured v
maturing fruit, complex and well-integrated on the finish. Yum.
90-93
2004 L'Esprit de Montmal Fitou (Syrah Carignan Grenache,
13.5%) - lightly volatile complex aromas, ripe and
smoky v herbal and white pepper, moving to blackcurrant black cherry and fig on
the palate; elegant concentration and weight with firm long finish, fresh
acidity even v power and alcohol. Gets better with aeration.
88-90
2005 Merlot-Carignan
vin de pays de la Vallée du Paradis (13%) - nice aromatic inky yet juicy red and
black berry fruit with smoky liquorice backdrop; lush v tarter side, fruity and
soft v dry bite and length. 87-89
2005 La Coucante
Corbières white (Grenache
blanc Muscat, 13%) - subtle oats and coconut on the nose lead to enough
floral fresh fruit with aniseed bite, crisp and dry v a bit of weight. Try with
salmon in a dill sauce. 85-87
2005 Domaine de
Coucante
Corbières red (Carignan Grenache
Syrah,
13.5%) - attractive more modern style with juicy black fruit and light oak,
turns more rustic and chunky yet with relatively soft tannins.
87
Tasted July 2007:
MT Muscat de Rivesaltes - classic
VDN style with aromatic grape, citrus peel and
pear-drop notes; quite full and sweet v fresher punchier finish. £5 in the UK
87
 Domaine Bertrand-Bergé
- Paziols
Jérôme and Sabine Bertrand revitalized their old 30 ha (75 acre) property in
1993 to start making real wine again. The family had stopped producing wine in
the 1960s becoming co-operative growers; now they prefer the personal touch to
shape quality and styles of wine by doing everything themselves. It shows too:
these are arguably among the best in the area.
Le Méconnu Cabernet Sauvignon -
Carignan, vin de pays
Côtes de Torgan - nice liquorice and tobacco notes
on a blackcurrant/cherry backdrop, fairly chunky and concentrated actually.
€4.20 85+
2004 Fitou Tradition - lovely herbal blackberry fruit aromas lead to very
fruity palate turning savoury and leather, easy start v more serious finish.
€6.40 87-89
2004 Fitou les Mégalithes (mostly old Carignan)
- maybe a touch corked as it seems a little stripped? Anyway, much tighter and
firmer than above v 'sweet' liquorice fruit, powerful length. €9.30
89+
2003 Fitou Ancestrale (Carignan Grenache
Syrah)
- delicious ripe fruit then chunky structured mouth-feel, firm tannins v 'sweet'
coating. €8.50 89-91
2004 Fitou Ancestrale (Carignan Grenache
Syrah)
- similarly attractive black fruits with light cedar oak, more closed up than
above, tight fine finish shows class and potential. €8.50
90-92
2004 Fitou Jean Sirven - spicy wood v lush fruit, nice balance of power
and concentration v elegance and length, dry grip v coating mouth-feel. €30
90-94
Rivesaltes Ambré Grande Réserve - complex Madeira and whisky notes
layered with pecan nut sweetness, nice bite giving drier nutty finish. €8.80
50cl 88-90
2003 Rivesaltes Tuilé 'Ma-ga' (Grenache) -
delicious ripe oxidising plum and tobacco nose, quite powerful alcohol (which
should integrate as it's young) but lovely sweet spice and earthy fruit; wow.
€18 90-92
 Domaine Lerys
- Villeneuve-les-Corbières
Maguy and Alain Izard
farm 45 "low-yielding" hectares (110 acres) around the pretty lost
village of Villeneuve; they also do chambres d'hôte
with two rooms above their nice shop, one double and one family
with a terrace.
2003 Fitou tradition (Carignan Grenache,
13.5%) - perfumed and pure, liquorice and pepper fruit with light rustic notes;
firm tannins v ripeness, elegant bite and length. €6.20
87-89
2003 Fitou Prestige (Carignan Grenache
Syrah) - more floral and herby followed by nice black
fruit, firmer and more austere with lightly bitter bite; structured finish with
coating of tannins. €7.30 88-90
2001 Fitou Fût de Chêne (Carignan
Syrah) - coconut spice with nice fruit underneath, layered
tannins with long bite; attractive but would be better with less oak. €7.70
Rivesaltes (Grenache
blanc &
gris) - appealingly
oxidised walnut and toffee notes, quite subtle freshness v sweetness. €6.20
87+
Revamped by the might,
money and know-how of the AXA Millésimes group (assurance/insurance/property
investment: owner of Château Pichon-Longueville in Pauillac,
Disznókő
in Tokaj and Quinta do Noval Port among others),
who combined two
vineyards - Château Ste. Hélène and Château Belles Eaux - to form a 90 hectare
(220 acre) estate. Here you'll find Syrah (some
grafted onto underperforming Carignan),
Grenache, Mourvèdre (4
ha replanted)
and parcels of old vine Carignan on the
gravel/clay slopes of Caux in the Languedoc, lost (and I mean
lost, without the mysterious imaginary monsters though: they're improving the signposting) between Pézenas and Montpellier.
The stately 16th to 19th Century buildings (from the original barrel cellar to
handsome chateau added later) are being renovated, part of which houses the
remodelled and re-equipped winery.
Stockists
in the UK include independent wine merchants such as the splendid PW Amps in Peterborough, Ipswich Fine
Wines, JH Logan of Edinburgh, Topsham Wines near Exeter and
crammed-with-lovely-bottles Wimbledon Wine Cellars. More info from the UK
importer:
Paragon Vintners, London SW1, tel: +44
(0)2078871800. For the
US, contact Marie Louise Schÿler on +33 556 73 17 18 or
mlschyler@chateauxassocies.com. They also launched a
bag-in-box red a couple of years ago in
France, which doesn't, in retrospect, really seem to fit in with their
'premium-positioning' plans (to use the marketing babble), but I haven't heard
anything about that since then.
Tasted August
2006:
2003
Fûts de Chêne (Syrah Grenache Carignan
14.5%, 12 months in French 20% new oak) - rich purple turning red/brown at the edges,
ripe plum and black cherry notes, smoky and rustic with very light cedar and
spice undertones; quite concentrated, nice soft rounded palate v grip and power,
drinking fairly well now. Better balance than the Ste-Hel in terms of alcohol,
extraction etc. £7.99 88-90
2003 Sainte-Hélène (same varieties plus Mourvèdre, from selected plots) - delicious
earthy plum and black cherry/olive, very ripe and aromatic with subtle
background oak; lush and forward, rich and soft with textured tannins and light
oak; pity about that 14.5% alcohol (at least I'd say), which throws a very nice
wine out of kilter. A victim of heatwave 2003? Look forward to the 2004. £15
87 (because of its overly hot finish).
Update: I visited the winery in October 2006 and re/tasted the following:
2004 Chardonnay fûts de chêne (no new
oak) - creamier and fatter than the basic Chardy with nice oat character v light
peachy fruit; more power and texture, rounded with well judged oak.
85-87
Muscat vendanges d'automne (13.5% 80
grams/litre residual sugar) - made "for fun" from sun-shrivelled berries:
gorgeously exotic, slightly botrytis aromas lead
to lovely citrus and peach fruit; quite fresh acidity actually v lush sweetness.
89
2003
Fûts de Chêne - nice
ripe spicy black cherry with light liquorice, beginning to develop; fairly soft
texture v quite powerful alcohol v dry rounded tannins, attractive fruity length
with well integrated wood. 89
2003 Sainte-Hélène - a little woodier but not much (from the 05 vintage
they're only using 1 year old barrels, by the way), richer more intense dark
fruit aromas and palate; firmer and tighter yet still rounded tannins, pretty
concentrated v slightly hot alcohol. 89
2004 Fûts de Chêne (10% more Syrah
than the 03, 13.5%) - a touch more vanilla, the fruit's a little subdued on the
nose; however the palate launches into attractive black cherry intensity, firm
tight and fresher than the 03, shows greater elegance and promise.
89-91
2004
Sainte-Hélène (20% more Syrah, more Mourvèdre, Carignan,
less Grenache; 14.5%) - light coconut notes v rich
liquorice and cherry fruit, firm grip with good texture and weight; fine length
with alcohol much better integrated, needs 6-12 months to open out and the oak
to merge into the fruit. 90-92
Update 2007/08: for a start, they've relaunched the estate
and its top reds as Mas Belles Eaux with the promising 2005
and 06 vintages. Cédric Loiseau, the winery & vineyard manager placed in situ by
AXA, has overseen replanting of over 20 ha and upgrading parcels of Syrah with
"top-grafting and retraining," as their blurb says. In addition, the "two-level
winery" is nearly finished and fitted out with small temperature-controlled
concrete vats (very de rigueur). Big boss Christian Seely commented: "This was a
departure from our normal policy of restoring great vineyards to their former
glory. This time we are creating one instead. I truly believe that Mas Belles
Eaux is capable of producing some of the great red wines of the Languedoc."
Mind you, they'll have to be
given the high prices they're aiming for - see below.
Tasted December 2007:
2006 MBE Vieux Carignan,
Vin de Pays de Caux
(100% 60 year-old Carignan, 13.5%) - light coconut
oak lifts off to reveal fragrant cassis, damson and liquorice fruit; intense and
tangy v ripe and full palate, attractively tight grip with concentration and
chocolate cherry length. £16.99 89-91
2005 MBE Les Coteaux, AOC Languedoc (70% Syrah
20% Grenache 10% Mourvèdre
14.5%) - similar to the Sainte-Hélène, below, but a touch quirkier (maybe
it's the Mourvèdre?) and less overtly oaky-smooth, showing vibrant black cherry
and chocolate with earthy undertones; fresh tannins v rounded ripe mouth-feel,
in the end the alcohol is pretty well integrated too.
90 £16.99
2005 MBE Sainte-Hélène, AOC Languedoc (80% Syrah
10% Grenache 10% Carignan
14.5%) - impressive and lush with ripe concentrated black cherry v
coconut oak texture, underlying spicy smoky liquorice notes too, rounded and
structured with tighter bite to finish. It's almost a bit too Bordeaux,
oak-textured and seamless; yet those rich vibrant Mediterranean edges, which
might develop over time, carry it. 90+?
£21.99
Mas Belles Eaux,
34720 Caux. Tel: 04 67 09 30 96 / 95 (the
latter Cédric Loiseau's direct line),
contact@mas-belleseaux.com,
www.mas-belleseaux.com
Château de Sérame - Corbières/Minervois
"...Delving deeper into Corbières, this huge region has been witnessing an
impressive transformation with several very serious investors on the scene.
Château de Sérame is an extensive property straddling both Corbières and
Minervois, who went into partnership with Bordeaux magnate Dourthe four years
ago. With 120 hectares in production and 10 being replanted every year, “our aim
is benchmark wines” commented winemaker Vincent Bernard..."
Read the rest of this article. Tasted July
2006:
2003 Minervois (Syrah
Grenache Carignan
Mourvèdre) - warm blackberry and liquorice fruit with light toasty oak,
slightly 'reductive' tang and complexity; nice
soft-ish texture v depth of fruit, weight (13.5%) and chocolate coating; quite
big yet the fruit wins the day. 87-89
2004 Minervois (Syrah
Grenache Carignan
Mourvèdre) - touch more vanilla but also lively floral spice notes;
attractive juicy v fresh and tight mouthfeel, enough black cherry fruit to
absorb the choco oak; more elegant and perfumed than the 2003.
89+
2004 Corbières (variation of same grapes) - tighter more blackcurranty
fruit, again very light oak and reductive notes; nice concentration v firm
tannins, elegant and long; needs a little time to express itself.
87-89
2003 L’Icone Corbières - powerful barrel-fermented, limited series red:
pretty rich, spicy and toasty nose leads to very concentrated choco palate,
sweet fruit v solid rounded mouthfeel, actually 15% but not so obvious. Quite
wow Parker-esque style (sorry Robert for that sweeping comment), not sure I'd
want to drink more than a glass. 90 (purely
as a 'show' wine)
Domaine de Sérame
2005 Merlot Réserve, Vin de pays d'Oc - appealing plum and cherry aromas
with very background oak, good varietal character; aromatic v chunky, attractive
style. 87-89
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Réserve, Vin de pays d'Oc - quite tangy
and tight, perhaps bottle-shocked needing a few months; it does say Cab with
less charm than the Merlot, maybe an awkward adolescence...
2005 Viognier Réserve, Vin de pays d'Oc - delicious floral apricot
notes, gummy and fresh v fatter 'sweet' fruit, clean long finish.
87-89
2005 Muscat sec Réserve, Vin de pays d'Oc - sexy pure piercing orange
peel and grape aromas build to a very zesty palate, 13.5% adds weight yet it's
long and fine. 90
 Château
Coujan - Saint-Chinian
Florence Guy makes quite a large varied range at this
peaceful estate found a few km out of Murviel-lès-Béziers, on the eastern side
of the Saint-Chinian appellation; her top wines are definitely worth seeking
out. They also have an on-site holiday Gite and can organise walks, wine dinners
or art classes; it's quite nice just to hang out as well and listen to the roaming
peacocks squawking! Wines tasted June 06:
2005 Rolle, Vin de Pays Coteaux de Murviel -
floral and honeyed, crisp mineral tones v fatter fruit; different. €4.95
85
2005 Bois Joli, Saint-Chinian blanc (Rolle Grenache
Blanc Roussanne) - barrel sample: light toast with mealy creamy notes,
good weight and concentration v citrus zest. €6.90 87+
2004 Tradition rosé, Saint-Chinian (80%+ Mourvèdre)
- attractive tangy strawberry fruit with still quite crisp and lively palate,
fat v fresh finish. €4.60 87+
2003 Cuvée Gabrielle de Spinola, Saint-Chinian (Mourvèdre
Syrah Grenache Cinsault) - lovely black cherry & olive aromas, liquorice
v peppery; solid fruity mouthful, powerful yet balanced. €5.90
87-89
2002 Cuvée Spéciale Bois Joli, Saint-Chinian (Mourvèdre
Syrah) - rich leather and spice tones with light chocolate, quite mature
with nicely textured tannins. €12 87-89
2004 Ile de Corail, Vin de Pays Coteaux de Murviel (100% Mourvèdre)
- gorgeous ripe wild herb, liquorice and cherry tones; rich lush mouthfeel v
structured and fresh, very different. Actually has 10 grams residual sugar and
15% alc, hence why it's VDP this vintage! €23 90+
 Château de Lastours
- Corbières
This breathtaking estate is perched high up in the Corbières
hills, watched over by giant windmills, and changed hands in 2004. The new owners are investing heavily in upgrading and reducing the vineyard
area, to focus on the very best parcels, and an amazing new landscaped winery.
This is already apparent in the quality of the latest reds below, and I've also
included a couple of older wines.
The three 2004 vintage reds were cask samples tasted at
Vinisud on
20th February 06, the rest at the property on 9th Feb.
2004 Arnaud de Berre - lots of young spicy fruit, shows nice grip v softness and
elegant length. 87+
2004 Simone Descamps - just a touch of wood adds choc and spice, displays
intense ripe black fruits, more concentrated than the Berre with attractive soft texture, dry bite and length.
89-91
2004 Château de Lastours - a tad oakier but not much, lovely concentration
set against structured mouthfeel, showing similar fruit style and elegance;
will be super. 92-94
Update: tasted April 2007
2004 Château de Lastours Réserve (Carignan Syrah Grenache)
- ripe 'sweet' fruit leads to rather dry chocolate wood. Disappointing
considering this was looking really good in barrel: left it too long? €17
2004 Rosé - zingy v juicy fruit, more
elegant style with subtle finish. 87
2000 La Grande Rompue - rather rustic nose yet has good
concentration, power and some elegance as well; nice texture and mature
fruit, a little too farmyardy (perhaps from poor barrel hygiene) but good
underneath. 85+
2001 Château de Lastours - similar aromas to above but
cleaner, more concentrated and firmer, good weight v elegance.
87-89
Château Faiteau -
Minervois la Livinière
This timeless twisty-alleyed
village half an hour north of Lézignan-Corbières appears to have as many
signposts to wine cellars as street names. No bad thing, given the
generally high standards being reached in this sub-appellation or cru. I
called in at Jean-Michel Arnaud's (another co-op grower who went
independent in 1998) compact winery on 9th February 2006 for a chat and
tasting of his impressive reds below. Other producers of Minervois La
Livinière to look out for include Domaine de la Combe Blanche, Domaine Anger, Domaine la Rouviole and Château Cesseras.
2003 Minervois (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre &
Carignan) - attractive perfumed spicy black cherry
with rustic leather notes; plenty of liquorice, black fruits and spice in
the mouth with a bit of bite and weight; good for AC Minervois.
85-87
2001 La Livinière (Syrah, Grenache &
Carignan) - liquorice and earth, nice black cherry
fruit underlined with choc oak; developing complexity, grip v elegant
concentration, length and style; closes up a little on the finish although the
sample was very cold. 90+
2002 La Livinière - not so revealing on the nose, chunky blackberry
fruit lies on top of textured oak; concentrated and meaty, firm tight
finish with nice lingering depth of fruit. 90+
Château Grand Moulin - Corbières
Jean-Noel Bousquet relocated his winery to the Lézignan-Corbières ring road, after his cellar collapsed during incredible
floods the area was subjected to in 1999. However, he took it as a good opportunity to rebuild and
remodel things to suit a slight shift in growing and winemaking philosophy, plus
incorporate a new tasting reception area and shop. These wines were sampled February-March 06:
2001 Corbières Terres Rouges (Syrah, Grenache
& Carignan, 13.5%) -
a little closed
and awkward on the nose, yet shows spicy lightly earthy black
cherry/currant fruit with perfumed oak overtones; powerful, tight mouthful of
smoky black fruits and chocolate vanilla then firm/tart, dry and long finish. Needs time
as the oak and acidity/tannins are a bit out of kilter at the moment, but it
should blossom in 2-5
years. 89-91
1999 Terres Rouges
(12.5%) - lovely developed smoky nose, liquorice and spice, ripe raisiny black
cherry fruit with tobacco notes; soft elegant palate set against remaining dry
grip and attractive long finish. 91-93
1998 Corbières
Vieilles Vignes (12.5%) - mature intricate aromas, savoury raisins and
prunes with leather undertones; supple refined palate, nice depth of 'sweet'
fruit v light dry tannin backdrop. Drinking now yet should reward from a couple
more years ageing. 90-92
2001 Vieilles Vignes (Syrah, Grenache, Carignan
& Mourvèdre)
- complex smoky nose, appealing liquorice and prune fruit; soft tannins layered
with well handled oak, elegant dry finish with ripe fruits lingering too.
88-90
2005 La Tour rosé (Cinsault,
Syrah, Grenache
& Mourvèdre, 13%) - fresh and crisp style: very
lively tangy red fruits showing good extract v elegance and juiciness, zesty and
long. 87
2002 Corbières blanc, fermenté et élevé en futs (Grenache
Blanc, Vermentino & Macabeu)
- toasty, oily and oxidising nose leads to milky yeasty weight and tanginess,
rich palate finishing quite fat although there's still some fresh acidity
underneath; quite good if you like this oaky style. 84
 Domaine
Bégude - Limoux
English couple James and Catherine Kinglake
put their money into a dream and bought this charming property near Limoux,
south of Carcassonne, in 2003, which offers spectacular views in all directions.
Describing his philosophy as "turbocharged lutte raisonnée" (meaning as
environmentally friendly as possible without being full-blown organic), James is
making some lovely white wines. The 2005s below were unfinished wines tasted
from vat Dec 05:
2005 Sauvignon Blanc - attractive citrus v mineral style, soft ripe
gooseberry fruit then leaner crisp finish.
2005 Chardonnay (will be blended with barrel fermented Chardonnay) - nice
clean white peach fruit and balance of weight v elegance, again finishing with
crisp length.
2005 Chardonnay (will be vin de pays) - more mineral and yeast leesy
style, tighter longer finish.
2005 Chardonnay - livelier and richer although a touch bitter on
the finish at the moment.
2005 Chenin Blanc (will blend 85-15 with Chardy) - lovely melon v buttery
fruit, intense and fresh v fat yet fine.
2005 Pinot Noir rosé - elegant rose petal
aromas build to creamy weightier mouthful.
2004 Chardonnay vin de pays - creamy raisin fruit showing juicy
fatness v greener crisper edges; very attractive at €5.
2004 Chardonnay-Chenin Blanc - again creamy to start followed by
leaner fresher finish. £5.99 in the UK.
2004 Chardonnay Limoux - shows light toasty oak and juicy fat
fruit then a more elegant finish, well balanced.
Update to follow shortly, April 2007...
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Malepère:
Guilhem
Cabardès:
Brau
Pennautier
Escourrou
Cabrol
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