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Richard who? advertise wine words translation service back home
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These words were published in distilled form in the smart and very thorough (I'm slightly biased of course although not getting commission for this shameless plug) 2009 edition of the Time Out South of France guide - click here to buy it on Time Out's website. All rights © Richard M James / Time Out. When browsing through the many words written about the history of growing grapes and making wine in southeast France, you’ll no doubt come across plenty of that ‘since Roman’ and ‘Phoenician times’ or ‘Mediaeval monks’ stuff. However, it almost goes without saying that the region’s wine roots and culture are just as ingrained as its food and cuisine; as well as the way countless picturesque vine-scapes effortlessly mould its very varied terrain. As is happening in other vinous parts of France, Provence - Côte d’Azur winegrowers are striving to keep up with ‘les Martin’, let alone the Jones’ and Changs, and changing tastes at home and worldwide. The region has plenty to offer on the wine front with several quite different wine appellations, some of them household names and others hardly known beyond the borders of 13, 83 or 84.
[* What is AOC and does it mean a wine's better? A big topic! All it actually means is some kind of guarantee of origin but often in reality not quality, despite strict rules on paper (although they're trying to overhaul the system because of rampant self-interest and local politics inherent in each AOC). So, no, non-AOC isn't necessarily inferior just different or doesn't conform to outdated rules. Many French producers still make out it's the be-all-and-end-all (or more importantly wish it really was: I won't get into terroir and the 'taste of place' aspect here...), a lot of French consumers still appear to believe this (maybe not young people who are confused and not drinking wine), but most British wine drinkers probably don't know and don't care! And who can blame them.]
Up until now, the Provencal wine scene was perhaps characteristically more sedate, certainly less vociferous than their winegrowing neighbours in the more activist Languedoc and Catalan-hearted Roussillon. However, winemakers appear to have reacted quickly to ride the zeitgeist - especially the spiralling popularity of pink wine - while reminding people about the region’s natural assets as a great wine travel destination. Provence is after all the quintessential land of rosé, certainly in quantity but not always quality: this cosmopolitan wine style makes up three-quarters of some appellations’ production. The relatively hot and dry climate favours a wealth of red grape varieties, the key ingredient for rosé of course, although certain areas such as Cassis (see opposite and below) are in the minority being better known for their white wines. So, there’s a time-honoured tradition of making fruity and sometimes quite fine, dry rosés in southern France. Not just for summer drinking, many of them have the fruitiness of a red to go with Provencal dishes yet retain the crisp refreshing bite of a chilled white. Bouillabaisse with cheese-topped croutons and piquant rouille comes to mind; or fleshy seafood, red mullet, anchovies and monkfish; guinea fowl and chunky ratatouille… The best ones, and the dearest (mind you, a bit of a cheek charging the same price as their cask-aged reds), are often (although not always or exclusively) from Bandol, Les Baux, Tavel and parts of Côtes de Provence. They are made from ‘free-run’ juice drained or ‘bled’ off (hence the French term saignée) from crushed red grapes (such as Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon or Tibouren), after steeping on the skins for a few hours to pick up a hint of colour. The juice is then fermented fairly cool to preserve fresh aromas and fruit – meaning the rest of the winemaking is done as for a white wine. Only the sturdier, more expensive rosé styles get better after, say, over a year in bottle; so make sure you buy the youngest vintage possible. Having said that, Provence is of course home to some celebrated big-hearted reds. Châteauneuf-du-Pape needs little introduction; winemakers here have done a sterling job of creating an image of red wine nirvana revered around the globe. The words fame and fortune seem particularly appropriate, as most Châteauneuf starts at €10-€15 with much higher prices for top estates. However, these opulent warming reds can offer a lot of pleasure partnered with e.g. game, lamb, cured sausage or Gruyère. The central grape varieties are Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre (plus more obscure ones like Counoise), which usually get very ripe in the hot summers and dry pebbley soils this area is well known for. Interesting to see whether these heady reds with sometimes 14%+ alcohol will retain their popularity, at a time when people are talking about drinking lighter wines. Enough of the pontificating (ho ho), here are a few esteemed Châteauneuf producers in or close to the village itself, which is in the middle of this surprisingly sprawling appellation: Domaine Chante Cigale, Domaine du Pégau, Château Fortia, Château Mont-Redon and Domaine La Roquète. Hard core enthusiasts should check out the ‘Maison des vins’, 8 Rue Maréchal Foch, 84232 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Tel: 04 90 83 70 69. Difficult to get an invitation to cult names such as Château de Beaucastel, Château la Nerthe, Château Rayas and Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe; but you could try! That list was actually meant as a bit of a name dropping guide to CNDP's most illustrious estates: I suspect they mostly only entertain important trade customers, as they sell all their wine quite easily at high prices. So, it might help if you have any hot contacts in the biz! All contact details at www.chateauneuf.com. White wine is generally in the minority in southeast France, with a few honourable exceptions. The varieties you’ll come across when exploring vineyards include Rolle (also called Vermentino), Sémillon, Ugni blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc… Most of these are now found across the South, although some are also common, or even originated from Italy, Corsica or Spain. Apart from Cassis (see opposite), around La Londe-les-Maures (see below), the odd white wine-nuts producer here and there… other areas that might surprise you with their whites include some villages in the southern Rhone valley. King of reds Châteauneuf-du-Pape boasts certain estates who are highly regarded for their textured, creamy and nutty whites that can age magnificently. Ditto the Gigondas area. Getting your head around the vast Côtes de Provence (www.vinsdeprovence.com) region isn’t an immediately obvious task – this appellation (about 20,000 hectares = 50k acres) stretches across the whole of the Var département towards Marseille to the west and Grasse to the east. On the other hand, that reassuring name might help when making a snap decision in the face of a lengthy wine list and impatient sommelier. All those vineyards and villages mean very diverse terrain, producers and personalities. The end result is wines ranging from cheap and cheerful, through very drinkable and good value to quite serious and pricey; yet all labelled with the same AOC badge. To break it up into more identifiable zones, and thus in theory more distinctive wines, growers have been moving towards creating a handful of recognisable sub-regions; while leaving CDP in place for those who want to use the uncomplicated Provence ‘brand-name’ for everyday supermarket rosés. So, when planning your wine tour, it’s worth concentrating on a specific area and trying to get acquainted with the best producers within it. The stretch from Hyères to St-Tropez, shadowed by the Massif des Maures range inland, offers scenic touring and several quality-minded estates. To start, there’s a pocket of vineyards just northwest of Hyères around La Crau: try Domaine de Mont-Redon (04 94 66 73 86, www.mont-redon.net). La Londe-les-Maures is also a good place to spend a bit of time, as there are over 20 producers including some rated for their white wines. Recommended: Château Sainte-Marguerite (Le Haut Pansard, 04.94.00.44.44, www.chateausaintemarguerite.com) who makes full-bodied concentrated reds, lively refreshing rosés and an unusual white too. Between La Londe and Bormes-les-Mimosas, towards the sea on the winding Route de Léoube, two names to note: Domaine de la Sanglière (04 94 00 48 58, www.domaine-sangliere.com) and Château de Brégançon (04.94.64.80.73, www.chateau-de-bregancon.fr). And not far from St-Tropez near Gassin, there’s one of the grandest Cru Classés (an old unofficial classification): Château Minuty (Route de Ramatuelle, 04.94.56.12.09). The western chunk of Provence is Coteaux d’Aix country (variable in both senses), spreading from the Durance river to the sea and from the Rhône to Montagne Sainte-Victoire. Recommended: Château des Gavelles (classic zingy rosé and fairly solid tangy red) and Château Beaulieu (juicy elegant rosé: see www.pgadomaines.com). Sainte-Victoire has given its name to a recently carved out, Côtes de Provence sub-region (www.vins-sainte-victoire.com) located east of Aix within earshot of that handsome mountain, centred on Trets. Growers are furious about the TGV line extension to Nice that will cut right through their vineyards; will they win their case? On the way there, there’s also the blink-and-miss-it Palette AOC, which serves up the odd reasonable red. Moving on to the elevated terrain between Cuers and Le Luc, check out Domaine du Grand Cros near Carnoules (04 98 01 80 08, www.grandcros.fr) and, north of Brignoles, Domaine des Aspras (04 94 59 59 70, www.aspras.com) in Correns, whose Cuvée Tradition rosé is delicate and classy. Brad and Angelina were ‘spotted’ in this village before they landed at nearby organic estate Château Miraval (04 94 86 39 33, www.miraval.com) close to Le Val. The Provence-ophile couple were turned down by Château Val-Joanis (04 90 79 20 77, www.val-joanis.com) in trendy Côtes du Luberon (southeast Vaucluse in its awesome regional park) but bagged grandiose Miraval instead - leased or bought depending on the media. Its vineyards lie in the Coteaux Varois AOC, which takes in 28 villages around Brignoles between the craggy Sainte-Baume and Bessillons ranges. Another impressive estate in the area is the beautifully set Château Lafoux in Tourves (subtle perfumed and fruity rosé: 04 94 78 77 86, www.chateaulafoux.com). Côtes de Provence Fréjus is yet another new sub-appellation drawn around that attractive Roman town, neighbouring Saint-Raphaël and a bit inland. Nice has its own homegrown wines that you won’t find elsewhere: Bellet. This pretty little vineyard area lies behind the city on steep slopes in the Alpine foothills, and is easily explored in a morning trip. Bellet’s rosés and reds are made from unheard-of grape varieties such as La Folle Noire and Le Braquet, and must surely be the ultimate match for salade niçoise! A trio of producers to hunt out: Château de Crémat (04 92 15 12 15, www.chateau-cremat.com), Château de Bellet (04 93 37 81 57, chateaudebellet@aol.com) and Clos Saint Vincent (04 92 15 12 69, clos.st.vincent@wanadoo.fr). All you need to know at www.vinsdebellet.com. Growers in the Costières de Nîmes (www.costieres-nimes.com) appellation make over 50% red wine on average and a lot of rosé too. This increasingly dynamic region spreads out to the south of the city; here are a couple of recommended estates: Château de Campuget (30129 Manduel. 04 66 20 20 15, www.campuget.com) and organically farmed Domaine Pastouret (Route de Jonquières, 30127 Bellegarde. 04 66 01 62 29, www.domaine-pastouret.com). Finally, Côtes du Ventoux (www.cotes-ventoux.com) is yet another mountain-shadowed, undiscovered and red-dominated inland Provence region. It’s located to the north of the Luberon, and its 100 domaines and 15 cooperatives are dotted across the eastern side of Carpentras. Try Château de l'Isolette (Route de Bonnieux, 84400 Apt. Tel: 04 90 74 16 70). By the way, the maximum blood alcohol level for driving in France is 0.5 g/l and strictly enforced nowadays. So we recommend the driver, if not teetotal, tastes and spits out – feels a bit gross at first but you get used to it. Winemakers, buyers and even journalists do it all the time! Alternatively, chose a compact wine route and walk or cycle (the latter option still a bit dodgy as I know from experience). And what about the basic 'etiquette' for visiting vineyards? Best to call in advance - the bigger glitzier properties have set opening hours, which vary according to season and might have an employee who deals with visitors. Others are one-man/woman operations and available by appointment only. Obviously vintage time (from late August to late September) is an exciting time to visit but the owner/winemaker will probably be too busy to attend to people personally. Occasionally some estates charge a small fee for a full tasting and tour, but most are happy to do this for nothing, although, without forcing you to buy, would expect you to take something even if just one bottle.
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This somewhat unique wine region, centred on the Mediaeval village of Les Baux-de-Provence with the Alpilles hills and wonderfully raw countryside as a backdrop, has been gathering a following in its own hush-hush way. There are a dozen estates encompassing eight villages, which means it’s perfect for a compact tour (by bike even) in discovery of lush rustic red wines and full-on rosés. What gives Les Baux a contemporary eco-edge is the fact that 85% of their vineyards are organically farmed or, even fussier, on biodynamic principles (homeopathic techniques incorporating planetary and atmospheric elements). To top that, most winegrowers want to make organics an essential requirement for the AOC. Grapes-wise, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon work harmoniously with warm-blooded Med varieties like Grenache and Mourvèdre. The best reds are impressive but can be rather expensive (€20+) - Les Baux is fashionable with well-heeled visitors in the know - although some wines start at a reasonable €6. Growers have long been lobbying for Baux status for their white wines, and this finally looks like it’s on the cards, which could be a good thing in consolidating recognition for the area’s wines (whites are either Vin de Pays or confusingly Coteaux d’Aix). As long as future Baux whites make a real quality statement rather than it being a means to increasing prices! They want to integrate the more characterful Marsanne, Roussanne and Sémillon varieties with Grenache blanc, Rolle and Clairette; a few sumptuous barrel-fermented styles are being made. One of the rising band of biodynamists is Château Romanin (Route de Cavaillon, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. 04.90.92.45.87, www.romanin.com) located near the airfield. Owners Jean-Louis and Anne-Marie Charmolüe, previously of Château Montrose in Bordeaux, have continued this demanding growing philosophy since they bought it in 2006 and make seductive smoky reds. Back towards St-Rémy is Dominique Hauvette’s Domaine (Voie Aurelia, Quartier de la Haute Galine, St-Rémy. 04.90.92.03.90, domainehauvette@wanadoo.fr), who also practises biodynamics and rears 40 horses (no shortage of organic fertiliser then)! Characterful reds based mostly on Grenache and, unusually Cinsault. Heading east again, off the D99 before the turning for Eygalières, is Domaine de Terres Blanches (Route de Cavaillon, Chemin n°107628, St-Remy. 04.90.95.91.66, www.terresblanches.fr) jointly run by the Parmentier-Jolly families, whose 'Aurelia' red is a classic Syrah / Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Moving on to Les Baux, head south from St-Rémy on the D5 until you see Mas de la Dame (04.90.54.32.24, www.masdeladame.com) on the right. This is where, aptly, sisters Anne Poniatowski and Caroline Missoffe make some award-winning red, white and rosé wines. Also not far from the Bauxite city along the D27, and offering great views of it, is Mas Sainte-Berthe (04.90.54.39.01, www.mas-sainte-berthe.com), which is owned by Geneviève Rolland whose winemaker is Christian Nief. Their rich white is made from Grenache Blanc and Roussanne and traditional reds age well. Other estates on the
Baux trail: TOUR 2: GIGONDAS TO RASTEAU AND BEYOND
This is serious Côtes du Rhône ‘Villages’ country: some of them are allowed to put their name on the label after those words, and others have their own separate village AOC. A bureaucratic privilege on the surface but there is history and substance behind it, since there are a fair few growers in these areas making spicy chunky reds from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre to rival Châteauneuf-du-Pape. A little further south still you’ll find Beaumes-de-Venise, famous (well, in France at least) for its delicious sweet fortified Muscats as well as similarly hearty reds. Start in Gigondas country (which probably comes from Latin for joy: check out their poetic, Roman-tinged site www.gigondas-vin.com), which is easily reached via the charming village of Vacqueyras from the south. Take the D7 then D8 towards La Bégude and, before crossing the river, you’ll find Saurel-Chauvet who own Domaines La Bouscatière and Le Péage (Quartier la Beaumette, 84190 Gigondas. Tel: 04 90 70 96 80, www.saurel-chauvet.com). Spicy full-on reds made mostly from old-vine Grenache, and using more Mourvèdre than most growers around here. Head back south on the D8 and take a left turn; they all lead into Gigondas itself eventually! It’s not difficult to find Gabriel Meffre’s (Domaine de Longue Toque, 84190 Gigondas. Tel: 04.90.12.30.21, www.gabrielmeffre.com) caveau once you’ve sussed out the one-way streets. Meffre is quite a big operation but that doesn’t stop them making great examples of the local wines. Longue Toque is their prize vineyard and also the name of this cellar/wine shop (their head office is elsewhere in the village). Head north from Gigondas passing through Sablet and on to Séguret with its 14th Century bits, which deserves a stop-off for obvious cliffhanging reasons. Then take the winding road out of the village into the hills towards Vaison-la-Romaine, where you’ll eventually come to signposted Domaine de Mourchon (La Grande Montagne, 84110 Séguret. 04 90 46 70 30, www.domainedemourchon.com). Scots couple Walter and Ronnie McKinlay set up this leading estate in 1998 and will give you a warm welcome. Two equally impressive reds under the CDRV Séguret AOC called Tradition and Grande Réserve. Return to Séguret then go north to the roundabout on the D977, and keep heading for Roaix (you have to to cross the river) then southwest following for Rasteau. Cave de Rasteau is on the main road (Route des Princes d’Orange, 84110 Rasteau. Tel: 04 90 10 90 10 / 14, www.rasteau.com): the front of the old cellar has been converted into a groovy, stone and glass space. The range is good overall, and you must try their signature AOC Rasteau: a heady Port-like red that’s great with chocolate or mature cheeses. They also organise wine trails and other events. Afterwards walk up the hill and have a look around the timeless village itself. Resources: more info and wine routes on www.vins-rhone.com. More Rhone profiles on this site.
The Cassis tour includes four estates, two more or less in town and two out of town; you could visit all of them in one day or split over two occasions. Starting with Clos Sainte Magdeleine owned by François Sack (Avenue du Revestel, 13260 Cassis. Tel: 04 42 01 70 28), which is located southeast of the harbour: take Rue de l’Arène then turn right. His whites are worth trying if you haven’t already discovered them in a local restaurant. Afterwards, head back on yourself but this time go right onto Arène up to the roundabout, then right onto Avenue de Provence where you’ll find Domaine du Bagnol (12 Avenue de Provence, 13260 Cassis. Tel: 04 42 01 78 05). Jean-Louis Genovesi’s white and rosé Cassis are refreshingly different and nicely partner seafood or tapas dishes. Domaine de la Ferme Blanche (Route de Marseille, 13260 Cassis. Tel: 04 42 01 00 74) is arguably one of Cassis’ best-known vineyards and is a good hike north of Bagnol towards the station. Head west on Provence to the roundabout then north on Avenue du 11 Novembre 1918 alongside the green space Le Jardin des Hespérides, which feeds onto Avenue Joseph Liautaud. Follow this to the right and keep going onto Avenue Auguste Favier, which in turn takes you onto Maréchal Foch and Ave. Albizzi. Route de Marseille and entrance to Ferme Blanche are just past the roundabout, easy on foot or bike but could be tricky in a car thanks to another confusing one-way system (like much of Cassis). Once you’re there, sample and enjoy François Paret’s elegant white wines. Next stop Château de Fontcreuse (Route Pierre Imbert, 13260 Cassis. Tel: 04 42 01 71 09, www.fontcreuse.com). From the aforementioned roundabout, head north briefly towards the station then take a right across country on the twisty Chemin de Bérard until it hits Emile Bodin. Go straight across onto Chemin de la Douane which forks right and comes out on the D559; turn left heading for La Ciotat, Jean-François Brando’s understated chateau soon comes into view. His estate rolls out over 28 hectares set below the Couronne de Charlemagne rock-face, producing a quite exotic white wine half-built from the seductive Marsanne variety, as well as some red (using an oddball cross-breed called Caladoc) and rosé. Resources: www.ot-cassis.com, www.cassis.fr, www.vinscassis.com, www.maisondesvinscassis.com. You run into ‘Le Rond-Point des Mourvèdres’ off exit 11 of the A50, La Cadière-Le Castellet to the north of Bandol. A roundabout devoted to the Mourvèdre grape, this scene-setting postage-stamp vineyard lets you know who’s boss. For mythical Mourvèdre shapes not only the heart of the appellation on paper but also the growers’ hearts and minds. This meaty, late-ripening variety needs plenty of sunshine and intimate handling to produce structured wines fit for ageing. You may have seen roundabouts like this on the way into other wine towns: it's a kind-of grass-roots statement about what they do around here! And the locals do look after the vines on it and pick the grapes too (see Bandol's website below for details of the Fetes des Vendanges in October). Elsewhere in the South, winemakers use less or no Mourvèdre as they struggle to coax such a fine performance out of it: it’s a climate/terrain thing apparently. Red wines have to be at least half Mourvèdre to qualify as AOC Bandol; some are 100%. The best rosés, which are full-bodied and dry, also contain quite a lot of Mourvèdre along with Cinsault, Grenache or Syrah. Bandol’s reputation stems from its reds yet it produces two-thirds rosé (and a touch of usually overpriced white); however, the top estates focus on red. The Bandol appellation includes the villages of Sanary, Le Castellet, La Cadière d’Azur and parts of St-Cyr-sur-Mer, Le Beausset, Evenos and Ollioules. Its vineyards form a 10km wide, sweeping arena around Bandol itself, where ironically you’d be hard-pressed to find a vine. The rosés go well with exotic seafood such as anchovies, sea urchin and mullet; as well as king prawns or lobster, Chinese or Thai cuisine and grilled vegetables. Red Bandol is a good match for game, duck, pigeon even or a good old steak. Heading east from the Rond-Point on the D66 towards Le Beausset, take the first right. Domaine Tempier (Chemin des Fanges, Le Plan du Castellet. 04.94.98.70.21, www.domainetempier.com) is owned by the Peyrauds, who, in the early days, were one of a handful who argued Mourvèdre should be the central variety for quality Bandol. The estate is run by talented winemaker Daniel Ravier. Their rosé develops nicely and they make a range of reds; these two single vineyard wines stand out: La Migoua (Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache) and La Tourtine (80% Mourvèdre), both sturdy and concentrated. Follow the D559b through Le Plan, turn right underneath the motorway onto the Chemin de l’Argile and stay on it until you reach Domaine Lafran-Veyrolles (La Cadière d’Azur. 04 94 90 13 37, www.lafran-veyrolles.com). After tasting their impressive reds and rosé, head back south onto the Chemin de Fontanieu then second right onto Chemin de Pibarnon, which runs onto Chemin de la Paguette. Keep going until you hit Chemin de la Croix des Signaux. The vineyards of celebrated Château de Pibarnon (Chemin Croix des Signaux, La Cadière. 04.94.90.12.73, www.pibarnon.com) lie on some of the highest slopes in Bandol (300+ metres), where the soil is very chalky and stony. Laid-back aristos Eric de Saint Victor and his father Comte Henri, who rebuilt the estate, believe this helps restrain Mourvèdre making finer wines. Also recommended in La Cadière area: Dom Gros’Noré (675 chemin de l’argile, 04.94.90.08.50, www.gros-nore.com) where the enthusiastic Alain Pascal makes meat-demanding reds; and La Rouvière (04.94.98.58.98, www.bunan.com) owned by the Bunan family and source of their best wines. Other recommended
Bandols: Posted by R James March 2009. |
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There’s the covert Bellet
AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée*) hiding in the hills behind Nice, in
contrast to the all-encompassing Côtes de Provence and Coteaux d’Aix regions. To
the west, a gladiator’s throw from that ancient city (ah, those Romans again), Costières de Nîmes is just as happening as inland Provencal wine areas such as
Côtes du Ventoux or Luberon. East of Nîmes, south of Avignon the almost entirely
organic Baux-de-Provence appellation (
Red wine lovers
should delve deeper around a few of the pretty hilltop wine villages found
east/northeast of Orange, whose vineyards snuggle up against the jagged
Dentelles de Montmirail hills where you can also take a walk on the wild
side along marked pathways. You could spend a couple of leisurely days
touring between Vacqueyras, Gigondas, Séguret, Rasteau and Cairanne, for
example; that complete stretch comes to about 20km.
A dozen estates spread around the
eponymous seaside town make up this small appellation, most of which are a
pleasant hike or cycle-ride up the hill away from the madding crowds
engulfing Cassis in summer. Less than 200 hectares of vines are planted
mainly with white varieties: Ugni Blanc (lacks character but gives
freshness), Clairette, Marsanne (the two most interesting), Doucillon