South African Chenin Blanc

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"One of my favourite things," (as Julie Andrews might have uttered) Chenin Blanc really excels in parts of the Loire Valley in France - e.g. Saumur or Savennières for zesty or rich dry whites, Vouvray from dry to super sweet and good sparkling too - and coastal wine areas in the Cape, making a range of styles from fresh easy-drinking to full-bodied barrel-fermented to lusciously sweet. Here are a dozen tasty Chenin Blancs sampled at the London Wine Fair in May 2006, listed by region: Swartland, Perdeberg, Cederberg, Avenir, Rijks, Rudera, Simonsig, Spice Route, Kleine Zalze, Bellingham, Good Hope and Spier. Missing from this line-up are wineries such as Asara Estate and Ken Forrester, whose Meinert Chenin is a 95 points world classic: see my Waitrose Christmas Wines 2004 feature (when I get round to redoing it!) More info on the SA Chenin Blanc Association website or hot Chenin tips from on-line Cape magazine Grape.

Swartland

2006 Swartland Winery - fairly citrusy Sauvignon-esque aromas, more juicy melon notes on a fresh gummy palate; pleasant 'commercial' style. 85
Malmesbury
2004 Spice Route - rich creamy and complex with subtle toasty oak and colourful fruit, fresher palate with mineral tones, power and ripeness v elegant length. 90-92

Paarl

2005 Perdeberg Cellars Reserve - oilier more honeyed style, fuller with mineral depth and fresh dry finish. 85-87

Olifants River

2005 Cederberg Private Cellar - quite complex aromas offering richness yet herbal green fruit notes too, zesty and mineral v fat mouth-feel, very fresh acidity. 87-89

Stellenbosch

2005 L'Avenir Estate - intricate waxy honey and floral tones, lovely juicy fruit set against acid structure, weighty yet balanced with long tight and dry finish. 90-92
2004 Robusto, Rudera Wines - exotic honey notes lead to rich rounded palate showing nice pure fruit, then tight mineral finish; elegant and fresh v very light toast, drinking now. 87-89
2004 Avec Chêne, Simonsig Family Vineyards - subtle exotic fruit v toasty notes, rich honey and light buttered toast, concentration and power v fresh and dry; classy. 92-94
2005 Bush Vine, Kleine Zalze (15%) - complex floral notes with creamy honey undertones, big power carried by fruit concentration then mineral bite, ripeness v acid/alcohol structure; wow, that alcohol's a bit heavy but this has rich depth of fruit too. 89
2005 the Winery of Good Hope - background toasty oak v intricate herbal notes, elegant fruit and pretty dry finish; nice although a little short in the end. 87+
2004 Spier Private Collection - attractive buttery tones mix with exotic melon and peach, rich and creamy v mineral freshness and subtle oak, nice energy on its tight length. 90-92

Tulbagh

2004 Barrel Fermented, Rijks Private Cellar (14%) - oily nose with lightly buttered toast, rich and weighty palate with complex fruit and oak undertones set against zesty dry finish; nice foodie I'd say. 89+

Coastal Region

2004 Bellingham 'Maverick' - lush and toasty up-front giving way to more elegant mineral length; pity it's a little too oaky as the rest is good. 87+

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