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 Alba 9th-12th March 2006. Obviously the focus was on northwest Italy, but
producers from elsewhere were there too - Sardinia, California, Virginia,
Mexico, Australia and South Africa - with their wines made from this
schizophrenic variety. My notes from the following winery visits are viewable below:
Elvio Cogno, Sandrone,
Ghiomo, Burlotto,
Oddero, Viberti and giant
Fontanafredda.
A marathon walk-around tasting of Barolo, Barbaresco, Ghemme, Valtellina etc. offered good insight into overall quality, styles and
vintages, especially the vertical tasting of top estates. Certain older
wines were disappointingly firm and charmless yet some plainly brilliant.
For what it's worth, I thought the most impressive vintages were 2001 and 1997:
I don't know (or care) how that compares with verdicts from higher authorities. In addition, the
best growers have transformed the quality of the Barbera and Dolcetto varieties
making some lovely wines at more attractive prices. Last but not least, as a
gourmet destination this part of Italy, with its mountain climate
(although can be hot in the summer), is beautifully hilly and fun to
drive around. Add to that delicious hearty cuisine to match those serious wines...
 What do I mean by schizophrenic variety? Well, it's that elusive cocktail of the
grape's quintessential sweet yet savoury/sour delicacy, light colour yet gripping
mouth-feel and sometimes high acidity. Nebbiolo can perform superbly in the
relatively cool climate of Piemonte, although certain other
regions may well prove their compatibility (see notes at the bottom). A lot of the debate and work in vineyard and winery revolve around
consistent ripening without too much alcohol, taming tannins and,
inevitably barrels (yawn). Namely their effect on ageing and character for
Barolo etc - new barriques v old large casks - and especially colour. But does the
world really need yet more richly purple wines from a variety that naturally
isn't?
This in particular came through when visiting the following estates in terms of
merits and appeal of traditional and so-called modern styles (details and
comments on these wineries might appear in a separate report). Any
prices mentioned are ex-cellar, so add on taxes and a retail margin to get a
better
idea (yes, some of them are that expensive).
After this, I've selected my favourites from the monster tasting laid on by the Consorzio. Overall, I
got the impression of very high quality in Barbaresco, probably more
even than Barolo, with some surprises from Valtellina.
Elvio Cogno
2004 Dolcetto d'Alba, Vigna del Mandorlo (13%) - lovely youthful morello and black cherry fruit with
notes of spice and light sulphide complexity; leaner tighter palate with
attractive tannin texture, firm yet rounded and well balanced. €5.20
87+
points
2003 Barbera d'Alba, Bricco dei Merli (14%) -
perfumed coconut and ripe cherries with underlying maturing aromas of smoke and
spice; nice depth of fruit and texture, elegance v power plus light grip and
bite on the finish. €7 89+
2003 Montegrilli, Langhe (Nebbiolo &
Barbera, 14.5%, 1 year in barriques) - similar
smoky cherry notes with meaty undertones, tobacco maturity v 'sweet' fruit;
again oak is well handled adding nice texture, more power and grip than the
above two, but it's still balanced and quite fine. €8
90+
2002 Barolo - quite forward in colour and aromas, liquorice v earthy
cherry fruit showing floral 'sweet & savoury', Pinot Noir like characters; more
structured with dry grip yet light seductive fruit on the finish. Good for 2002.
€10 87
2001 Barolo, Ravera (14.5%) - gorgeous 'sweet & savoury'
nose with light oak smoke and volatile complexity, meaty and minty v raisins and
'tar'; sumptuous lush fruit v tight firm mouthfeel with fresh acidity too,
elegance v power on the long finish. €17 92-94
2001 Barolo, Vigna Elena - very different nose with red
pepper and herb notes, perfumed and 'sweet' v rustic intricacy; very firm yet
rich and silky palate, power and intense bite. Needs 5+ years. €27.50
94+
Giovanni Viberti
2004 Dolcetto d'Alba (from vat) - bright spicy morello cherry nose with
light creamy background notes, fruity fresh and elegant length.
87
2004 Barbera d'Alba, Bricco Airoli (from vat) - rich liquorice and
earthy black cherry fruit, concentrated yet elegant, fairly soft tannins with
light choco texture and 'sweetness', again fresh finish.
90+
2003 Barolo, Bricco Vole (from vat) - quite full colour, lightly
volatile complexity and wilder side backed up by spicy ripe fruit; lush yet
fresh, firm v rounded texture with refined bite and length.
90-92
2003 Barbera d'Alba superiore, Bricco Airoli (13%) - attractive
smoky black cherry fruit with savoury edges; quite concentrated and full on
rounded tannins, power and freshness on a lovely
finish. 90-92
Vino Mosso, Barbera Vivace - burnt earth dark plum fruit combines
with savoury black forest gateau flavours, sweet yet refreshing finish with just
a hint of tannin; pleasantly different. 87
Luciano Sandrone
2001 Nebbiolo d'Alba, Valmaggiore (14%) - mature smoky nose showing dried
cherry, liquorice and balsamic; turning savoury on the palate with light grip
and finish; drinking now. €25 87
2003 Nebbiolo d'Alba, Valmaggiore - estery cherry and earthy biscuit on
the nose leading to liquorice and tobacco palate, ripe v firm bite, nice 'sweet
& savoury' ('s & s') style. 87-89
2002 Barolo, Le Vigne - closed up and firm, austere start turning more
liquoricey, lingering alcohol and acidity; difficult at the moment.
87
2000 Barolo, Le Vigne - richer smoky and more savoury, again tight and
firm but has more substance and concentration, liquorice and morello cherry, dry
v 'sweet' texture, long finish; needs time. 90-92
1999 Barolo, Le Vigne - complex herbal balsamic aromas with light coconut
oak, elegant mature fruit and light tannins & acidity; a bit short.
87
Oddero Fratelli
2001 Barbaresco - attractive liquorice and cooked raspberries, ripe v
very perfumed; firm palate with oily cherry fruit, nice freshness and length,
dry structured finish. 88-89
2000 Barolo, Rocche di Castiglione - touch of chocolate oak with 's & s'
complexity, 'tar' ripeness v red pepper notes; juicy v mature palate with firm
coating of tannins, powerful yet finishes with more subtle length and bite; the
oak's still a bit dominant, but that smoky balsamic character does come back.
90
2001 Barolo, Mondoca di Bussia Soprana - baked cheese complexity, ripe
raspberry and smoke; much firmer and tighter structured, closes up on the
powerful yet elegant finish; needs time, has soaked up the oak better than the
00. 92-94
2000 Barolo, Vigna Riondi - balsamic v herbal cherry 's & s' style with
perfumed oak notes, quite rich dried fruit and tannins, shows some silkiness but
also a little bitterness. 90-92
1998 Barolo, Mondoca di Bussia Soprana - sexy smoky tar and mature cheese
notes, firm yet has plenty of ripe fruit too, pretty powerful finish.
94+
Ghiomo
2005 Langhe Arneis (Arneis, 13%) - tad of
sulphur but it goes away, very yeast-leesy and mineral v fat citrus fruit, fresh
bite and length. 87+
2001
Barbera d'Alba - smokier developed nose, appealing savoury v cherry
fruit; firm and strong yet drinking well with chickpea and lamb broth.
90-92
2000 Barolo Marcenasco, Renato Ratti - quite rustic and rich with
unusually deep colour, oily herbal 's & s' development; rather firm and more
structured than other 00s, but this has good ripe fruit sweetness too.
92
1999 Barolo, Mafero - more complex smoky liquorice v meat
aromas, richer fruit than above with perfumed balsamic notes, very firm tannins
and powerful finish; this 99 will go as it has greater depth.
92-94
1997 Barolo, Renato Ratti - delicious maturing rustic herbal sweet
v meaty aromas, rich and structured with ripe v firm framework; very
concentrated, powerful yet still elegant and youthful.
95+
Burlotto
2004 Barbera d'Alba, Avès - richer darker fruit with background spicy
oak, quite oak textured palate yet soft rounded tannins, touch of acidity and
nice chunky fruit. €10.50 90+
2004 Nebbiolo
Langhe - fuller and a tad oakier with underlying earthy intensity, more
concentrated and structured with similarly round tannins v bite and grip, power
on the finish; the fruit's a bit hidden, it needs a year in bottle.
90+
2001 Barolo, Acclivi - delicious strawberry v savoury tobacco and
herbs on the nose, silky fruit and tannins then firm and fresh on the finish,
energy v elegance; needs time, very promising. 92-94
2001 Barolo, Vigneto Cannubi - richer and smokier with lovely
herbal edged fruit, very firm mouthfeel v meaty cherry flavours, wow on the
finish. 94+
1999 Barolo, Monvigliere - farmy yet perfumed, very firm
traditional style with pretty rustic finish, ripe dried fruit v dry grip.
92
Fontanafredda
2004 La Lepre, Diano d'Alba (Dolcetto)
- earthy cherry and liquorice aromas lead on to a smoky quite chunky palate with
a touch of chocolate oak; nice and fruity 'sweetness' with firm bite on the
finish, smoother with food. 87
2001
Barbera d'Alba superiore, Papagena - black cherries and perfumed oak with
lightly earthy undertones, chunky and juicy with choco texture, ripe fruit v
firm-ish tannins; nice commercial style. 87+
1997 Barolo, Vigna Lazzarito - developing balsamic and leather notes,
quite rich and smoky set against strong tannins and authoritative finish.
92
1982 Barolo, Vigna la Rosa - holding its colour well, sexy nose of
rustic marmite and liquorice, meaty v sweet; good depth of fruit, mature yet
still fresh, firm dry tannins but balanced, attractive elegant length.
93-95
Consorzio walk-around tasting 10th & 11th March
Fratelli Alessandria, 2oo1 Barolo Monvigliero
- aromatic cheesy 'sweet & sour' nose with lovely savoury tobacco profile, quite
firm yet oily texture with elegant length. 92+
Giacomo Ascheri
2oo1 Barolo, Sorano Coste e Bricco - complex earthy spicy aromas,
rich liquorice fruit v tight firm mouthfeel, long bite on the finish.
92-94
2000 Barolo, Sorano - quite rustic with bags of sweet liquorice v
savoury fruit, firm yet maturing finish; attractive now and over the next few
years. 90-92
1998 Barolo, Sorano - oily yet structured palate, leading to
softer finish with nice fruit, then tighter and closes up again.
92+
1997 Barolo, Sorano - rustic smoky nose goes on to generous fruit,
very concentrated with solid grip, 'sweet' v tobacco, long and powerful.
94-96
1996 Barolo, Sorano - fragrant farmyard and liquorice aromas,
drier firmer than above and less rich, still very attractive though.
90+
Batasiolo
2001 Barolo, Briccolina - perfumed forward nose paves the way to
concentrated 's & s' fruit set against very gripping tannins, powerful with long
bite. 92-94
1996 Barolo, Briccolina - mature cheese and liquorice notes set
you up for an impressive concentrated mouthful, again firm yet rounded by fruit.
92-94
Bava
2000 Barolo di Castiglione Falletto Scarrone - farmy maturing
aromas mix with sweet morello cherries and raisins, soft rustic palate yet
finishing firm and strong. 92
2004 Monferrato rosso, Vigneti di Cadodo - pungent black cherry
nose, earthy v liquorice; fruity yet chunky in the mouth; attractive 'modern'
style. 89
Bel Colle
2oo1 Barolo, Monvigliero - ripe and smoky, lush 's & s' fruit set
against weight and grip, long graceful finish. 92-94
1997 Barolo, Monvigliero - complex herbal development, gorgeous
sweet cherry fruit to balance meaty flavours, determined tannins v ripe
softness. 94+
Bussia Soprana
2oo1 Barolo, Vigna Colonnello - scented balsamic cherry fruit,
concentrated liquorice and tobacco palate, very compact with fresh acidity but
the delicious fruit wines the day. 94+
1997 Barolo, Vigna Colonnello - fine Gruyere intensity v gorgeous
liquorice, still carried by unyielding tannins and bright acidity, yet countered
by sumptuous ripe fruit, power and length. 95-97
1996 Barolo, Bussia - rustic oily nose with cigar and fig,
appealing mature 'tar' fruit layered with firm tannins and long bite.
92
Cantine dei Marchesi di
Barolo
1989 Barolo - getting very cheesy with meaty leather and raisined
cherries, dry grip v 'sweetness', still fairly alive really.
92-94
1982 Barolo - delightfully fragrant leather and dried fruits on the nose,
somewhat firm with gentle fading fruit. 90
1978 Barolo - very balsamic, fig and liquorice; much more ripe
fruit v dry tannins than above, fine savoury leather finish.
94
Castello di Verduno
2003 Barbaresco, Rabaja - plenty of 'sweet' cherries on the nose, more
savoury and grippy palate with the fruit carrying well; should be good.
92-94
2001 Barbaresco, Rabaja - more subdued and smoky, very structured and
concentrated, very tight solid and fresh; obviously needs a couple of years to
start revealing itself. 94-96
Fontanabianca, 1998 Barbaresco Sori Burdin - herbal v tar aromas, sweet v
leathery; stiff tannins yet lovely fruit and multifaceted flavours.
94+
Moccagatta
2001 Barbaresco, Bric Balin -
richer and more intricate than their 2000, delicious maturing fruit v dry grip
and texture, subtly underlined by well handled oak.
92-94
1999
Barbaresco,
Bric Balin - smoky and perfumed with tar tones, nice ripe raisin and
cherry sweetness of fruit v quite austere finish, light oak coating.
92-94
Nada Fiorenzo, 2001 Barbaresco
Rombone - more perfumed and
herbal than their Barby blend, very concentrated and structured, layer of oak
yet generous bright fruit too. 94
Rizzi
2001
Barbaresco, Boito
- seductive smoky fruit on the nose, very firm bite on the palate with
attractive maturing edges. 90-92
1997
Barbaresco
- cheesy v sweet aromas and charming fruit, much softer than other 97s, elegant
long finish. 94
Josetta Saffirio, 2003 Nebbiolo
Langhe - attractive herbal
v 'sweet' nose, quite a bit of oak yet has complex fruit too, grip and bite well
balanced by smoky liquorice flavours. 90+
Marchesi di Gresy
2002
Barbaresco, Martinenga
- scented mint aromas, ripeness v light oak; balanced fruit and dry grip on the
palate. 90-92
2001
Barbaresco, Gaiun
- the oak's quite dominant at the moment, although this offers plenty of
aromatic liquorice 's & s' fruit, elegant concentration and length with grip and
bite too. 94
1997
Barbaresco, Martinenga
- fragrant 's & s' fruit, smoky cherry; more elegant palate, solid tannins yet
ripe and herby backdrop. 92-94
Rino Varaldo
2001
Barbaresco
- very perfumed and graceful cherry fruit, structured and compelling mouthfeel
yet supported by sumptuous fruit and classy length; wow and woof.
95-97
1997
Barbaresco
- more savoury cherry than above, firm and leathery, pretty big and chewy yet
rich balancing fruit; less charming finish than above.
90
Valtellina
Cantina di Villa,
1998 Sforzato Tinaia -
delightful 'old claret' nose yet with rich fig on top of the herby edges; full v
subtle, maturing fruit v grip and power (14.5%) with long liquorice finish.
90
Giorgio Gianatti, 2001 Valtellina superiore Grumello - aromatic tar and black
cherry nose, chunky style showing nice ripeness v might, fine acidity v dry
tannin. 90-92
Mamete Prevostini, 2003 Valtellina superiore Sassella
Sommarovina - delicious
Pinot Noir-esque floral yet ripe cherry and tar aromas, neat yet muscular palate
with lovely 's & s' fruity length. 94
Miru,
2000 Ghemme Vigna Cavenago - quite
farmy but it works, nice ripe mature fruit with soft-ish tannins and warm
length. 89
Rest of the world
Barboursville Vineyards, 2002 Nebbiolo Reserve;
Virginia, USA - sulphide farmyard complexity mixes with nice tar, liquorice and
morello; good balance of dry grip and length of fruit.
89
Benjamin Silver Wines
2001 Silver Nebbiolo, Santa Barbara County, USA - herbal
currant and cherry nose, attractive and intricate with tobacco undertones; quite
rich then firm tannins with ripe texture, has energy v elegance, will develop
further. 92
1998 Silver Nebbiolo - rustic and volatile v liquorice with
complex herbal berry notes, quite concentrated and long with firm bite yet
mature fruit. 92
Primo Estate, 2002 Joseph Nebbiolo, South Australia - rather too herbal and firm to start,
although there's some velvety tobacco and cherry fruit underneath, plus good
bite and length. 87
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