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This organic wine fair - strictly speaking wines made from organically
grown grapes in Brussels speak - took place in Narbonne (Languedoc) 16th-18th January
2006. Here's my pick of
south of France, 'new age' growers: star discoveries include
Coston, Etoile du Matin,
Siméoni, Traginer,
Pech-Latt and Borie la Vitarele.
You can also read this
news item about the show. Organic: what
and why? A few facts and thoughts on the right.
Domaine Coston
2003 Coteaux du Languedoc (Syrah, Grenache
&
Carignan) - lovely herbal spicy blackberry fruit,
turning earthy with liquorice notes;
quite tight fresh palate, showing grip and elegance with mint and black
cherry on the length.
89+
2003 Coteaux du Languedoc, Les Garigoles
(Syrah & Grenache) - more complex and spicier
than above, rich liquorice and hints of leather then tight firm mouth-feel,
very light oak on top of ripe perfumed fruit,
powerful framework yet balanced. 90-92
2005 Coteaux du Languedoc blanc (Grenache Blanc
& Roussanne) - quite rich mealy and aromatic, citrus peel
notes set against very light toast, apricot and cream; good mineral bite and length.
87-89
Château de L'Ou
2002 L'Harmonie
(Syrah, Grenache
&
Carignan) - soft and forward, mature fruit set
against more structured finish; good for 2002.
85+
2005 Côtes du Roussillon (from barrique) (Syrah
&
Grenache) - shows lovely depth of black fruits and
spices, long elegant finish; promising. 87-90
Domaine des Auzines
2005 Corbières blanc - (Grenache Gris
& Grenache Blanc) - displays good balance
of lightly toasty oak, creaminess and citrus fruit; should be interesting
after a few months in bottle. 85-87
2004 Cuvée des Roches - somewhat oak dominated at the moment, but
this is rich and structured with attractive grip and length; shows
promise. 88-90
Domaine
Cazes
2003 Credo, Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot - a touch of oak but not too
much, firm yet ripe palate, tight elegant finish; needs a couple of years
to shine. 87
2003 Rivesaltes Grenat, Vin Doux Naturel - lively liquorice
Grenache flavours, sweet berry fruit with
notes of leather, good bite and grip maintain the balance.
87-89
Domaine Malavieille
2003 La Boutine, Vin de Pays (Chenin Blanc)
- Savennières style (fine dry oak aged white from the Loire): rich and
mealy, rounded oily melon fruit followed by a touch of fresh acidity
on the finish. 87-89
2003 Alliance, Coteaux du Languedoc (Syrah, Mourvèdre
& Grenache) - quite rich and peppery, still
young and tight on the palate; should develop and round out in 1-2 years.
87-89
Domaine l'Etoile du
Matin
2004
Corbières (Syrah & Grenache)
- attractive ripe v savoury fruit, black cherry v leather; quite
concentrated and powerful with lingering black olive character.
87-89
2004 Etoile du Matin (Grenache) -
they only made 300 bottles of this peppery rustic pure Grenache, lots of
rich dark fruits with firm tannins yet ripe rounded finish; wow!
90-92
Domaine Borie la Vitarele
2004 Saint-Chinian Terres Blanches (Syrah
& Grenache) - attractive smoky peppery nose
paves the way to a firm concentrated palate, closes up a little on the
finish but it's still young. 87-89
2003 Saint-Chinian Les Schistes - grippier and weightier than
above, lovely pure fruit underneath, firm long finish.
89-91
Château de Caraguilhes
2005 Corbières rosé - very appealing
strawberry fruit and weight, then fresh crisp and long.
87+
2004
Corbières rouge - nice depth of youthful cherry fruit with tobacco
edges, well handled tannins on the finish. 88-90
Château Pech-Latt
2003
Corbières vieilles vignes (Carignan, Grenache, Mourvèdre
& Syrah) - concentrated with firm tannins
set against attractive tobacco and plum fruit; needs a few months to open
up. 87-89
2004
Corbières Alix - ripe and silky liquorice and herb flavours build
to dry grip and elegant length. 89-91
Domaine du Traginer
2003 Collioure
(Syrah, Grenache
& Mourvèdre) - lovely pure floral Syrah
style backed up by richer liquorice fruit, effortlessly moving on to grip,
power and elegance on the finish. 90+
2003 Cuvée du Capitas - rich black fruits and olive with nice
peppery undertones, leading to a firmer tighter palate with more finesse.
90-92
2003 Banyuls mise tardive - turning brown with maturing raisin
fruit, very rich mouthful balanced by lovely bite and length.
90
Domaine Siméoni
2005 Mourvèdre rosé (vat sample) -
tight zingy and elegant v weighty, lots of underlying fruit waiting to
leap out. 87
2004 Mourvèdre - youthful black cherry fruit with earthy peppery
notes, nice olive fruit and grip on the finish.
87
2004
Saint-Chinian la Toure - quite rich and chunky, pretty firm at the
moment yet concentrated with long spicy floral black cherry finish.
89-91
2004
Saint-Chinian l'Ame des Schistes (Syrah
& Mourvèdre) - very firm and
concentrated, again offers lovely spicy floral fruit.
90-92
La Tete a l'Envers (100% Syrah)
- peppery violet fruit, lovely 'modern' style with elegance and length.
88-90
Château Sainte
Anne
2003 Bandol Collection - plenty of rustic black cherry/olive fruit,
concentrated and grippy; very young at the moment, has a bright future.
90-92
1993 Bandol Collection - mature rustic nose with dried
fruits and liquorice, complex and minty, still has some dry grip yet soft
and round on the finish. 92-94
More Sainte Anne wines here.
Domaine de la
Courtade
2003 Courtade blanc, Côtes de Provence (Rolle)
- very creamy with yeast lees edges, rich and complex.
87-90
2003 Courtade rouge, Côtes de Provence (mostly Mourvèdre)
- subtle, tight and peppery fruit with leather notes, attractive grip and
finish. 87
Domaine de Mayrac
2003 Vin de Pays tradition (Cabernet Franc
& Syrah) - soft ripe mouthful leads to a
touch of grip and tangy berry fruit. 87
Blanquette de Limoux - quite fine and elegant sparkler, lightly
yeasty with crisp finish. 85-87
Domaine Raymond Roque
2004 Faugères - soft and ripe with raspberry and liquorice, good
fruit and tannin extract yet elegant and light.
87
2003 Faugères Nature - fuller than above with spicy ripe
cassis and tobacco notes; firmer finish, more powerful too yet still
elegant. 89
Domaine Delmas
Crémant de Limoux - quite intense appley fruit with fresh bite and
stylish finish. 87
2002 Limoux Haute-Vallée (Chardonnay)
- fairly toasty fruit balanced by yeast lees richness and complexity, fresh
acidity and length. 87-89
Domaine Rouaud
2005 Muscat sec Frivole - lively pure fruit flavours, tight zesty
palate yet fuller bodied than usual for this style (50% of the wine sees
barrique). 89
2004 Grenache - shows attractive ripe fruit and liquorice Grenache
style, soft yet powerful too. 87+
Domaine Traslepuy
2004 Côtes du Rhône - appealing chunky spicy fruit, good balance of
tannin, ripeness and elegance. 87
2004 Lirac - greater depth and firmer mouthfeel, attractive 'sweet'
Grenache fruit and power; nice classic style. 90
Domaine Jorel
2004 Grenache Pétaillat - rich and
structured with sumptuous dark prune fruit; needs 6-12 months to unfold.
90
Maury Vin Doux Naturel - bitter chocolate v blackberry/cherry
sweetness, tempered by youthful dry tannins. 89
Domaines de Petit Roubié
2005 Marsanne - characterful waxy honeysuckle fruit, nice fresh
bite v yeast lees intensity. 87
2004 Picpoul de Pinet - lovely concentrated zesty gummy fruit
balanced by crisp acidity and fine length. 90
Millésime Bio 2005
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Advertise here!
Organic doesn't necessarily
mean guaranteed or better quality, but overall wine quality is now much
higher than say ten years ago. Organic growers rightly claim it's more
about a whole way of life, and there's no doubt that this philosophy
coupled with fussy attention in the vineyard can produce superb grapes.
Here are a few facts about certified organic status (said to be more
strictly controlled than for AOC) to highlight the
main points:
The conversion period is 3 years so commitment and dedication are
required.
No synthetic chemicals or fertilisers are used in the vineyard.
Substances such as copper sulphate (against mildew) and sulphur dioxide (a
preservative amongst other uses) are permitted.
However, max levels of SO2 in winemaking are sometimes half that for
non-organic.
The idea is to foster a living soil, biodiversity in the vineyard and
hence naturally healthy vines.
It goes without saying that genetically engineered vines and winemaking
products, such as yeast, are not tolerated.
The philosophy often carries through down the line, in terms of managing
winery waste, water, packaging etc.
It doesn't make alot of sense to go on about the importance of terroir,
yet systematically destroy it with potent chemicals! |
