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Reviews of the latest releases from this go-getting Languedoc producer and
exporter. Also read my article published in the weekly trade magazine
Harpers:
Is there a d'Oc in the house? which includes
a few comments by
Jean-Claude Mas. Posted January 2005:
2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Vignes de Nicole,
Vin de Pays d'Oc - Wow, needs time: plenty of toasty chocolate oak at the moment
concealing big structure and concentration. 90+
2004 Carignan Vieilles Vignes - Tasted from barrique: lots of inky berry
fruit with liquorice edges, spicy wood on the firm tight finish, yet shows
plenty of nice ripe fruit to balance. Also one to watch.
87+
2004 Claudeval/Domaine de Nicole rosé (Syrah
Grenache Cinsault) - Attractive rose petal and strawberry style, quite
chunky fruit with a touch of crispness; nice quaffer. Try with tomato and
avocado salad. Less than £4. 85
2004 dA Marsanne, Vin de Pays (sourced from the Limoux area) - Attractive
honeysuckle aromas, zesty depth with fair concentration of waxy honeyed fruit
too; should be rather good in a few months time. 85-87
2003 Ile de Conas Viognier, Michel Mas winemaker, Vin de Pays d'Oc -
Quite fat yet flowery apricot fruit; however, this also has lovely bite and
length balancing the weighty mouthfeel. Under £6 at Asda.
87-90
2004 La Forge Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Vin de Pays d'Oc - Vat sample:
lovely balance of riper yet tangy blackcurrant fruit and liquorice edges, firm
rounded tannins; will be super in a few months. 90+
2004 La Forge Estate Chardonnay, Vin de Pays d'Oc (40% sourced from
Limoux, 60% from 'warm' climate vineyards) - Rich and creamy yet aromatic with
fresh peach and pear fruit, more toffee-ish in the mouth but has crisp bite and
length too. Yum, a bargain too at £5-6. Asda does the Ile La Forge label for
£4.99! 90
2003 Les Faisses, Jean Claude Mas, Coteaux du Languedoc (Syrah
Grenache) - Light cedar aromas underneath pure ripe blackcurrant, closed
firm palate showing greater elegance than the Vinus, good depth of fruit v solid
tannins, very long. Needs time to open up. 90-92
2004 Pinot Noir, Vin de Pays d'Oc - Tasted from barrique: not showing
much on the nose, but the palate offers nice youthful cherry fruit set against a
tight acid structure; you can see some savoury character underneath, wrapped in
not too heavy chocolate oak. Could be good: 85-87.
Aldi is now selling Ile la Forge Pinot Noir at £4.99.
2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Vin de Pays d'Oc - Plenty of zingy grapefruit and
gooseberry, shows nice balance of green v riper fruit, mineral v fatter palate,
crisp length. 86-88
2002 Vinus de Jean Claude Mas, Coteaux du Languedoc (Syrah
Grenache) - Hints of cedar mingle with ripe rustic fruit, very grippy and
structured set against attractive rounded liquorice fruit, power v elegance on
the finish. Very good for 2002, not a great vintage here.
90+
From
Previous wines of the moment tasted July
2004
2003 Arrogant Frog Ribet Red, Vin de Pays
d'Oc (13.5% Screwcap Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon) -
Offers a touch of spicy oak, aromatic blackcurrant and cherry fruit, alcohol and
some complex earthy notes on the nose; full fruity and spicy leading to firm
bite, yet it's drinking well now and will roll out nicely with 6-12 months in
bottle. I like your style. 87
2003 Hidden Hill Captivating Chardonnay Viognier, Vin de Pays d'Oc (13%
Screwcap) - Fresh aromatic nectarine and apricot nose, nice zesty extract and
zingy fruit, lively style and finish. 85-87
2003 Hidden Hill Charismatic Cabernet Shiraz, Vin de Pays d'Oc (13%
Screwcap) - Needs a little air... then opens up to reveal spicy blackcurrant,
cherry and elderberry fruit; tangy fruity palate finishing with a bit of grip
and length. Appears to be suffering a little from "young red under screwcap"
syndrome, i.e. displaying reductive notes in the background.
84-86
2003 Hidden Hill Memorable Merlot, Vin de Pays d'Oc (13% Screwcap) -
Quite memorable: aromatic cherry, plum and raisin fruit with a tangy twist;
reasonably firm palate to start but softens out, especially with food. Appears
to be suffering a little from "young red under screwcap" syndrome, i.e.
displaying reductive notes in the background. 84-86
2003 Hidden Hill Scintillating Sauvignon Blanc, Vin de Pays d'Oc (12%
Screwcap) - Grassy gooseberry aromas lead to a tangy citrus palate, soft acidity
adds a touch of crispness; not so scintillating but pleasantly easy going if
kept well chilled. 80-83
2003 La Forge Estate Merlot, Vin de Pays d'Oc (13% Unfiltered) - Lovely
nose showing rich smoky rustic black cherry and plum fruit touched up with
aromatic oak, pretty dense and concentrated with nice thick tannins and fruit
leaving a coating in the mouth; modern and chunky yet classical style balancing
alcohol, power and subtlety. Bargain at £5.99. 90-92
Mas more
here and
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