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'CRAV - 100 years of protest' “We’re at the point of no return. Be the worthy successors of the 1907 revolt, when some died to allow future generations to live off their land.” This grim warning was issued in May 2007 to France’s fresh-faced President by hooded men shot in sinister video-footage (source: France3/AFP). It’s more reminiscent of a bloody broadcast from El Qaeda or ETA than a handful of angry winegrowers in a sleepy Languedoc village. One month before, explosives were set off outside supermarkets from Nîmes to Capestang. And the July 3 bombings - the morning after a demonstration in Béziers and day before the European Commission (EC) published wine sector reforms - mark a disturbing twist, as this time the target was Co-operative Cellars’ Federation headquarters in Montpellier and Narbonne. This ongoing calculated violence, although baffling even for an outside world weaned on TV terrorism, will be familiar to Decanter.com regulars as will the words Comité Régional d’Action Viticole or CRAV (Regional Viticulture Action Group). ‘Action’ over the last few years in the Languedoc - either signed by the group or attributed to them - includes attacks on France Télécom, tax and other municipal buildings; motorway tollgates, railway lines, banks and insurance companies; and winery facilities belonging to large operations such as the Val d’Orbieu Group, Castel Frères, JeanJean and Grands Chais de France. So who are these people and what do they want? A well organised and supported, military unit with a coherent plan; or just a few bankrupt desperados stuck in the past with nowhere to go? Do they really believe the wine industry, French government and bent-on-reform Brussels will give in to their demands? These include no further grubbing up of vineyards, fixed minimum prices and protection against imports. For a fuller understanding, their actions must be put in the context of past and present upheaval in the Languedoc and Roussillon; and, more significantly, the future role of co-operative viticulture and unions. Flash back one hundred years. 11th March 1907, the Argeliès (Minervois) ‘committee’ totalling 87 winegrowers meets parliamentary delegates in Narbonne, investigating the national wine crisis and fraud in particular. The leaders include Marcelin Albert, grower and café owner; lawyer Edouard Bourges and Marius Cathala, vineyard proprietor and editor of influential newspaper Le Tocsin. Albert declares that “…united, we vow to defend our viticulture by all possible means…” On 24th March, a rally brings together 300 people in Sallèle d’Aude prompting widespread support. The demonstrations begin to escalate: in April 20,000 gather in Lézignan-Corbières. May: 150,000 assemble in Béziers; 170,000 in Perpignan, where a month later police headquarters go up in flames; Carcassonne greets a quarter of a million protestors. June: a similar number in Nîmes, culminating on the 9th with crowds of 600,000 in Montpellier. The next day, Albert calls for a “tax strike” backed by local politicians resigning such as Ernest Ferroul, the socialist mayor of Narbonne where ten days later six people are gunned down by occupying army regiments. Albert and others are arrested; the 17th Béziers Infantry mutinies in sympathy. (Sources: Jean Clavel, 1907larevoltevigneronne.midiblogs.com; Rémy Pech, co-author of ‘1907 Les mutins de la République,’ Privat 2007.) There were several underlying causes behind the 1907 crisis. Clavel - whose son Pierre runs their Coteaux du Languedoc Domaine in Assas (www.vins-clavel.fr) – points to the Industrial Revolution as a starting point. Languedoc vineyards expanded dramatically to meet demand from the thirsty urban working class, aided by development of the railways. The arrival of oidium in 1852 proved a temporary halt on production, with the prompt discovery of sulphur treatments. The onslaught of phylloxera in the south from 1865 caused more fundamental changes, as productive varieties such as Aramon were favoured in an ambitious replanting program, and planted more efficiently to enable the use of horses. During this period, the government encouraged emigrating grape-growing families to expand vineyards in Algeria. Large Languedoc merchants, who previously specialised in trading local wines, started importing wine and grapes from elsewhere in the Mediterranean to satisfy demand. These so-called ‘artificial’ wines, products of shady blending or added beet sugar, were at the centre of rising fraud, which the authorities were slow to crack down on. According to Pech, companies equipped to ship 32,000 hectolitres (hl) to Paris in one delivery could get from nine to fifteen francs per hl, whereas small growers struggled to earn six. Clavel believes the root cause was “small family producers unable to adapt to a changing mass market serviced by nationwide merchant operators,” rather than overproduction or fraud per se. These growers lacked the means and equipment to make wine and were the hardest hit. Wine unions and co-operatives had already been established - the Maraussan cellar was the Languedoc’s first in 1901 and represented the new ‘Vignerons Libres’ (Free Growers) movement (source: www.vignerons-cooperateurs.coop). 1907 catalyzed this change and the birth of modern co-ops, gradually uniting production and sales; along with overdue reforms that became the basis of future Appellation laws. It took years for these ideas to have wider resonance, in terms of shifting focus to low-yielding hillside vineyards and more suitable varieties; as well as the recurrent vulnerability of monoculture and growers at the mercy of rudimentary market pricing. In 1907 the landmark Confédération Générale des Vignerons du Midi union was born; later followed by the Fédération des Caves Coopératives de l’Aude (1929) and national Confédération des Coopératives Vinicoles de France (1932). After the Second World War, organised lobby groups called ‘Saluts viticoles’ emerged in the south. 1953, 67-68, 71, 73, 75 and 81 were marked by headline events, with two tragic deaths during clashes with police in Montredon (Aude) in 1976. During this period CRAV was formed (1961) and from 1972-82 Jean Huillet’s Mouvement d’Intervention Viticole Occitan faction, who headed up the Hérault federation until 2006 (sources: www.vignerons.com; www.vigneronsaudois.com; '1907-2007 Un siècle rouge ardent,' Midi Libre 2007; www.aiguesvives.fr; www.jeantosti.com; www.aude1907.com). Can we draw parallels with today’s lingering production crisis, radical activists and co-operative organizations? Yes and no, according to Joël Castany, vice-president of Val d’Orbieu and Vignerons Coopérateurs Audois. “The history of the union struggle has its roots in 1907 but became more radical, especially in the 60s onwards when an activist system was established. It’s about the type of wine you make and prices falling. They demanded subsidies and got them. This resurges in times of economic and political crisis, because in the south many never had a decent income. The extremists rear up, unfortunately it’s part of our culture. Some have been left behind and isolated; they think they can still apply pressure.” Castany believes the last five years have seen “too many cooks,” with factional infighting and activism losing its legitimacy. “This is very different from the historical movement,” describing the strikes against his organization and Hérault colleagues as “apparently about settling scores.” Clavel agrees: “the CRAV is marginalized… it used to be a proper lobby group. Attacking co-ops is incomprehensible, they don’t understand what’s going on. There’s no comparison with now and 100 years ago, when viticulture was the main occupation. The way forward is export.” Pech recognises this “suicidal move against their own people” and need to find new outlets, but stressed “the importance of the collective way of life. It’s not easy just ripping up the whole countryside, you can understand. In 1907 they knew who to address, nowadays with OCM reforms and Brussels...” The reality is that some growers have a second job or claim benefits to make ends meet (source: news.bbc.co.uk). An anonymous uncorroborated source alleged a mafia-like complicity between co-op activists and merchants to dispose of unsold wine for insurance scams. Hearsay aside, leading union figures have been among those arrested (and often subsequently released by local police) in the past; hardly outsiders. And you have to ask whether payouts for lost stock were more lucrative than distillation subsidies? “Are the merchants really the enemy? If you want to do harm, you’d destroy not empty vats.” This doesn’t explain attacks on supermarkets, an aggressive response to the assertive purchasing and stocking policy of certain chains. But others have also questioned how many new plantings were undertaken in the past, supported by the EC, merely to obtain ‘crisis’ distillation payments. Guy Predal at Domaine Marcevol near Vinça, Roussillon, echoes a firm yet rational viewpoint. “I want people to make a living from their profession, if they do it well. If they do it badly, there’s no place for them. It’s essential agriculture finds its place again in society, otherwise where do you stop wrecking the countryside?” He made comparisons to coastal Provence, where farmers and pathways are disappearing and fires increasingly common. “Vines should stay on the best hillside terrain, where growers should convert to organic viticulture to get proper incentives. Otherwise the EC carries on subsidizing those making poor wine, or to do something else or retire. But the unions have a lot of growers on the flatlands, big table wine areas; so they keep giving the money to the largest producers and polluters.” He’s right to challenge those who claim terroir is important yet continue to poison it. This argument seems more valid than naive demands by militant unions like MODEF, calling for customs barriers and fixed prices (source: www.midilibre.com) which aren’t compatible with EU free trade policy. Castany referred to appellations like Corbières and Minervois, rather than table wine, where further vine removal is imminent. “Small yields, high costs and low AOC prices mean they can’t live from this. Some older growers want out and the only way to get the money is pulling up.” He thinks 25% of Languedoc vineyards will disappear forever but emphasised there could be growth too: vines were ripped up in the past in Limoux but it’s now expanding. Pressure on land from property developers is also mounting. Progressive co-ops are developing value-added brands to better reward quality-orientated growers; and perhaps we’ll see fair trade type labels emerging. Jean-Marc Astruc, president of Cave Mont Tauch (see box below), argued: “problems are always linked to overproduction. In Fitou we’ve adapted to quality to increase prices, the market is very different today. We make each grower responsible and it’s reflected in what they’re paid. It’s the only way to keep these villages alive, by collective effort.” Richard Lavanoux, Laroche production manager near Béziers, summarised: “grower organizations are reassessing their position, and I hope it’ll all work out as many people in this region think the same thing. EU reforms are always a problem, as they tend to put us at a disadvantage compared to our neighbours. But let’s not forget the crux of the problem: quality; good wine always sells. CRAV generally targets companies who pull prices down, we do the opposite. There’s no logic in attacking a producer who’s enhancing the region’s image, but we’re not sheltered from thoughtless action.” While it’s clear this destructive element must be sidelined, Brussels bureaucrats and the wine industry should be sensitive to the wider issues of transforming the Languedoc-Roussillon vine-lands. 1907 should be commemorated in the light of positive aspects of co-operative winemaking, which has a strong future after a further period of painful change and rationalisation. By 1975, the region’s co-ops peaked at around 550; in 2006 there were 285 and declining. 2007 saw an accord to amalgamate the four regional (Aude, Gard, Hérault & Pyrénées Orientales) co-op unions. Early next year, the ‘Sud de France’ federation aims to fully integrate all Languedoc-Roussillon AOC and vins de pays/table trade bodies. Noticeably, Jean Huillet is on the committee (source: www.vitisphere.com).
Les
Vignerons du Mont Tauch
Established in 1913, Mont Tauch integrates four village cellars - Tuchan, Paziols, Villeneuve and Durban. There are 300 growers with almost 2000 ha of vineyards, and two-thirds of production is exported. Key people include Jean-Marc Astruc (president), Xavier Jayet (MD), Michel Marty (winemaker) and Katie Jones (marketing & export). Astruc describes MT as “an atypical co-op cellar as it’s run like a business.” In 2006, a ‘viticulture raisonnée’ (sustainable winegrowing) project was instigated with 120 core growers by vineyard manager Jérôme Collas. The Cave also went into partnership with the united co-ops of Fitou and La Palme, located in the coastal part of the Fitou appellation, which was created in 1948. MT now produces half of the area’s wines. From 2005-08, seven million euros has been invested in upgrading the barrel cellar and visitor centre. Innovative product development includes Les Douze, Les Quatre and L’Exception Fitou reds focused on prime vineyard sites. The 3V (Vins Vents Vignerons) ‘micro-cuvées’, e.g. Château de Montmal Fitou and Domaine de Coucante Corbières, are their first premium wines for the on-trade in France. They also recently launched Le Village du Sud fun range of vin de pays d’Oc varietals (£3.99), Mont Tauch Reserve (£6.99), Corbières rosé and Muscat de Rivesaltes (£4.99) backed by a consumer media campaign centred on the MT wild boar logo.
Burgundy growers disagree with proposals for AOC reform Growers and producers from the BIVB, the region’s main trade body, issued their initial reactions to President of the INAO – the organisation that sets and enforces the rules for French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée wines – René Renou’s plans for AOC reform, presented at a packed meeting last week. Renou reiterated his message about the crisis surrounding the French wine industry in the face of surplus production and cut-throat competition from the New World, predicting “part of the French vineyard area will disappear.” There would be two distinct paths for Burgundy wines: the modern branded commodity route and those at the top end. On the one hand, Renou now advocates the use of varietal names on labels for regional appellation wines, thus appealing to consumers internationally; while hinting at a Vin de Pays category for cross-regional blends or declassified wine. Measures providing an “honourable way out” for unwanted production are on the cards. On the other, higher quality standards will be resurrected within the new AOC framework, AOC d’Excellence and Site et Terroir d’excellence proposals. A complicated hierarchy of village then Premier and Grand Cru wines already exists in Burgundy based on specific sites and ‘terroir’. “I see this creating greater complexity, whereas we want to simplify the wines we offer,” commented Jean-Michel Aubinel, who represents growers in Macon, adding that the Site et Terroir d’excellence scheme would entrench rivalry between neighbouring properties if applied to one and not the other. Côte d’Or growers also expressed concerns about the apparent haste and the way quality checks would be imposed, as well as opposition to the introduction of Vin de Pays in the region. BIVB members will debate the pros and cons of Renou’s plans over the summer, with a view to getting reforms off the ground by early 2005 at the latest. Jean-François Delorme, President of the BIVB added: “We’re not against these reforms, just expressing doubts. The growers are aware they need to do something to adapt themselves better to the demands of today’s market. René Renou’s message has been well received; we need to find a new context and vision.” |
The entire Fitou appellation and its producers have left the CIVL, the regional association of Languedoc wineries. When revealing export marketing budgets at the CIVL’s AGM in Narbonne, Fitou’s letter of resignation was also conspicuously on the agenda. The move towards a single, united wine trade federation called Inter-Sud - combining CIVL, CIVR (Roussillon), Inter-Oc (vin de pays d’Oc) and ANIVIT (vins de pays & table) - has been too slow for some members. The concept of managing and promoting the whole region as ‘South of France’ was agreed a year ago and the Inter-Sud charter signed in June this year. Jean-Marc Astruc, Fitou winegrowers’ president, commented: “If we want to do this, we have to do it quickly. Everyone is talking about unity but people are dragging their feet.” Katie Jones, export manager at Mont Tauch, the progressive co-operative based in Tuchan and major player in Fitou production, added: “we’re committed to South of France, it’s a fantastic idea. The CIVL was just one level too much…” “The reason why Fitou left is because what we were paying in was too much compared to what we got out of it,” clarified Astruc. “The administrative structure was too expensive and Fitou wasn’t very visible,” he added. “South of France is simple, clear and easier for the consumer. There’s no point in paying to complicate.” Philippe Coste, CIVL president, endorsed reducing the timescale: “we must make this happen over the next year, especially with the Languedoc regional AOC; how can we if we’re still each doing our own thing?”
South of France earmarks €7 million for export Ambitious plans were announced by Languedoc wine producers at their recent AGM in Narbonne. In an unprecedented move to boost export sales, around half of the overall €15 million budget has been allocated to key European, North American and Far East markets. The total pot consolidates funds from the CIVL (Languedoc wineries’ association), CIVR (Roussillon) and Inter-Oc (vin de pays) into the new Inter-Sud super-body, which will promote all the region’s wines as South of France/Sud de France. These joint funds have been matched by the Languedoc-Roussillon regional parliament thus doubling the projected budget, which will be spent on PR, supermarket promotions, on-trade events and trade & consumer wine shows. The export share has also been split 50-50 between ‘mature’ – the UK, Germany, Netherlands, Belgium and Denmark – and ‘developing’ markets – the US, Japan and Canada. Currently 35% of Languedoc appellation wines are exported and 57% of vin de pays d’Oc. Progress towards creating one united wine trade federation in the South has been gathering momentum since the InterSud constitution was signed in June. However, legal and administrative fine detail appears to be slowing down the process, despite, on the whole, vocal support throughout the region. Government representative Eugène Julien described all the existing organisations as “a luxury” re-emphasising the need for “one cohesive body, very quickly too.” A further setback could be the delay in Paris ratifying the new cross-regional Languedoc AOC, which forms an essential part of marketing strategy and has been agreed by the INAO (national body controlling appellations). An unnamed commentator mentioned “rumours in the corridors of the Ministry” of possible problems ahead. Another unsettling development is the shock resignation of Fitou from the CIVL in October: it’s not yet clear whether they intend to be part of InterSud.
Gîtes de France and
Languedoc producers have launched a new wine tourism partnership
packaged as ‘Le coffret Escapades Vigneronnes’. A smart boxed kit containing a
glossy guide and CD will be sold on-line and in book shops and wine merchants
throughout the region for 19€. The guide includes details of each gîte property
located on participating wine estates in the Hérault département, as well as
information on the area’s vineyards, seasons and tourist attractions. The wine
trail stretches from east and north of Montpellier across to St-Chinian,
Minervois and Narbonne. The CD offers tips on tasting, grape varieties and
winemaking styles. “We wanted to make it educational rather than technical and
try not to be too highbrow or trade focused,” Dominique Dupeyroux explained,
director of Gîtes de France Hérault. “It’s aimed at different levels of wine
enthusiast. We can go further in the next edition, and an English language
version is a possibility if we can find a suitable publishing partner.” The
guide also gives suggestions with prices for two and three day tailor-made wine
and food tours including accommodation and itinerary, which can be booked
on-line and offered as a present. More information is available at
www.sejour-en-vignoble.fr
Violent demonstrations in Montpellier A reported 4500 wine growers from the Languedoc-Roussillon and the southern Rhône turned out yesterday in Montpellier to protest against the latest government measures and show solidarity in the face of escalating economic hardship. The €70 million rescue plan tabled by the Minister of Agriculture Dominique Bussereau has been widely criticised for not going far enough to support struggling French vignerons. Philippe Vergnes, representing the event organisers and president of one of the growers unions in the Aude, called on the government to “pay up so we can get over the worst. This region has given a lot in the past, it’s time to give something back to small producers.” He added: “if we’re guilty of anything, then it’s because there are too many of us. If market forces are to take over, help those get out of the business, if they want to, and those who wish to stay, roll up their sleeves and get out of this mess.” The supermarket chains were also slammed as “the biggest racket going,” along with the government’s anti-alcohol measures: “This attack on consumption has lead to the worst crisis in history.” Growers present were also demanding the right to publicise the positive aspects of moderate wine consumption. A delegation from the Languedoc-Roussillon is due to meet the Minister of Agriculture on 22nd March. The demonstration started peacefully in Place Peyrou by the Arc de Triomphe, where speeches were held before the march down the hill to the station and back up through La Comédie. However, by the time the throng reached the town hall armed with nothing more than placards (sporting slogans such as “Chirac what a let-down” and “Get to work Bussereau”), firecrackers and a petition, skirmishes broke out apparently provoked by the heavy-handed police presence attempting to disperse the crowd.
Languedoc wines speak the same language The Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc (CIVL) has revealed plans to promote all the different appellations (AOC) under the one umbrella of ‘Languedoc’, and to work together with other producers to push the idea of ‘South of France’ in export markets. At the AGM held on 3rd December, the CIVL announced details of their marketing strategy for 2005 supported by a budget of €4 million, including a 30% increase in expenditure earmarked for export promotions and advertising. The boldest move is the willingness of the three largest regional associations – the CIVL, the Conseil Interprofessionnel Vins du Roussillon (CIVR) and Vins de Pays d’Oc growers – to pool their ideas and resources. The combined pot for export campaigns comes to €2.7 million. This new found cooperation takes in the ‘Printemps du Languedoc et du Roussillon’ tasting in London on 15th February, mini-fairs in Toronto and Vancouver in May and a joint stand at Germany’s Prowein exhibition. The “common geographical ground focusing on the south of France” should communicate the diversity of the region’s wines better to the consumer. “The idea is simple,” Rémy Wuatelet, Marketing Director of the CIVL explained. “With intense international competition, we need to offer a complementary range that suits the market and consumer – still wines, varietals, sparkling and sweet – for a winning formula.” Individual Languedoc AOCs include traditional red blends such as Fitou and Corbières; the ‘cru’ subregions of Minervois la Livinière and Pic Saint Loup; dry whites Picpoul de Pinet and Clairette, Limoux sparkling wines and a variety of fortified Muscats. These will be marketed alongside Vins de Pays ‘cépages’ such as Syrah, Chardonnay and Grenache, and Côtes du Roussillon wines. Michel Laroche, who already labels his varietal wines ‘South of France’, agrees working together “is fundamental; there’s too much complexity and we need to simplify things. South of France is more abstract yet means more.” Putting Languedoc in the spotlight also fits in with plans to launch an inter-regional AOC, which are awaiting approval from the INAO. The ad campaign in English centres on the Languedoc cross logo, which appears on specially embossed bottles, and the catchphrase ‘Fine French Mediterranean wines’. In addition, a ‘destinations’ theme links wine routes to tourism. Exports of Languedoc-Roussillon wines for the first eight months of 2004 were down 7% in volume and 3% in value. However, Canada, Japan and the US show positive trends outperforming all other countries, albeit from a smaller base.
Bandol harvest finishes early The costumed tradition of ‘les Vendanges du Rond-Point des Mourvèdres’ – harvesting 225 Mourvèdre vines planted on the roundabout near motorway exit ‘La Cadière-Le Castellet’ north of the town of Bandol – took place on Thursday 7th October in temperatures of over 25°C, despite threats of rain issued by weather forecasters. The event usually symbolises the vintage in full swing but this year marked the finishing touches, and summed up the positive mood surrounding this year’s crop. Michel Bronzo, owner of La Bastide Blanche and President of the Bandol Association, described 2004 as “following in the footsteps of 2000 and 2001, both great years for Bandol, after the difficult 2002 vintage and exceptionally hot 2003.” Nevertheless, he estimates production is 10-15% down on last year. Summer 2004 experienced more even temperatures, consistent sunshine and a little rain in August and September, followed by a drying Mistral. But, according to most growers, not enough rain to avoid near drought conditions. Bandol escaped the storms seen elsewhere in France, and the fine weather continued through September until the last grapes were picked in the first week October. Eric de Saint-Victor of Château de Pibarnon, who finished picking their last parcels at the end of September, commented: “we already had excellent sugar and polyphenol levels, it would’ve been a pity to wait any longer… it could be a great vintage.” Freddy Estienne from Domaine de la Laidière was also enthusiastic: “we completed the harvest on Saturday 2nd October, it’s never been that early here.” He predicts 35-40 hectolitres per hectare (hl/ha) overall including whites and rosés. Yields for Mourvèdre for red wines will be nearer 25-30 hl/ha, also confirmed by Domaine de la Tour du Bon and Domaine de la Vivonne. Reynald Delille of Domaine Terrebrune in the commune of Ollioules ventured a cautious “very good” for the vintage, with average volumes of 35 hl/ha.
Big Turkish export push UK importer Alaturka is spearheading an export drive for wines from Turkey in partnership with Doluca and Kavaklidere, the two largest wineries in an industry previously lacking in co-operation. Out of 100 wineries, most of which are small with very few exporting, Doluca and Kavaklidere are the main players selling to Germany, Belgium, Luxemburg, Netherlands, Denmark and the US. Medium-sized producer Sevilen also has a presence in market-leader Germany, and boutique winery Melen – crushing 250 tons in Mürefte on the Marmara sea coast west of Istanbul (Thrace region) – exports as much as 40% to Japan and France. The total value of Turkish wine exports hit US$7.3 million in 2003 (up from $5.23m in 2001), although the figure for the US was only $263,000 with a hefty 60% ending up in Germany, Belgium and Luxemburg. Doluca now produces 13 million bottles annually and Kavaklidere’s total capacity reached 17.5 million litres this year. Overall production in Turkey has increased steadily according to official figures (which are a bit thin on the ground): 1997 - 44 million litres, 2003 (estimated) - 57.1 m litres. Both firms have invested heavily in modern vinification and storage facilities. Doluca head Ahmet Kutman, the UC Davis-trained son of company founder, claims to have put “one to two million US dollars per annum over the last ten years” into their winery near Mürefte, opened in 1993. Kavaklidere recently completed an impressive unit near Gülşehir in central Anatolia, at a cost “in excess of US$3 million”, surrounded by a 200 hectare (ha) vineyard, and is planning to build a third winery. Crucially, the big concerns have already turned their attention to vineyards focusing on both international and Turkish varieties. Indigenous white grapes include Narince, Emir and the ubiquitous Sultaniye; and reds Boğazkere, Öküzgözü and Kalecik Karasi. Of the 541,000 ha under vine, mostly owned by farmers who sell grapes and don’t make wine, at least two-thirds are destined for the table or dried fruit. However, new plantings and grafting from sultana to more suitable varieties are accelerating. Official wine production figures stand at 50-60 million litres annually. Changes within TEKEL, the government company that controls the alcohol business, have effectively ended a state monopoly situation and the compulsory purchase of grapes, thus enabling wineries to increasingly influence the quality and maturity of the fruit they buy. As regards the potential for international varieties, it's more a question of who's growing and vinifying them, as some wineries appear to be picking too early (based on sugar levels but not skin or acid ripeness) and/or to have winemaking or hygiene problems in the cellar. Some varieties were planted over 10 years ago: e.g. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Semillon, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Carignan, Alicante Bouschet, Grenache, Shiraz. The best examples tasted on a trip in September 2004 might indicate which regions are the most suitable for each variety, although so far volumes are small.
So, no there won't be a glut of Turkish Chardonnay on the shelves in the US or anywhere else in the near future but might be a few years down the line... I was told most of the wine currently exported is sold into Turkish restaurants, especially in Germany where there are lots of them. On the other hand, producers are hoping to progress beyond that 'Turkish restaurant wine' syndrome! A difficult juggling act, but it seems possible that certain producers could establish a niche in other quality restaurants and wine shops with unique Turkish varieties and blends with internationals. Namely the ones who get their vineyards, winemaking and marketing right over the coming years...
All stories COPYRIGHT DECANTER / RICHARD JAMES
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Fitou
splits from Languedoc
Melen
Winery's Shiraz Rezerve and Merlot Rezerve are both good, particularly the former,
made in a more 'modern'
style. Owner Cem Cetintaş believes "blends such as Merlot/Kalecik Karasi or
Semillon/Narince work well and could be the way for export." Doluca's Sarafin
range is made from international varieties grown in dedicated vineyards on the Gallipoli Peninsula.
The wines are only currently available in
Turkey due to the small quantities produced, yet the Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon are among
their best wines; and the Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc are also decent
enough examples. Their Eurasia Two Continents
brand, a blend of Cab Sauv and Öküzgözü sourced from both of Turkey's
landmasses, made by international consultant John Worontschak is clearly aimed at UK multiple retailers (about
£4.99), but is frankly disappointing. Other blended wines showing promise include
'Karma' Merlot/Boğazkere, as does their straight Riesling. Kavaklidere doesn't
make straight varietal wines from
French grapes at the moment, but does have some attractive blends such as
'Angora' red (Gamay/Cinsault)
or a Sauvignon Blanc/Sultana dry white, a pretty good rosé and a couple of
acceptable Cava-esque
sparklers available in larger volumes apparently.