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Alsace travel in brief You get a nutshell glimpse of Strasbourg taking the groovy Mancy-style tram (although a touch more ‘Space 1999’) from the main station, which weaves through various clean-cut squares and shopping streets. The capital of Alsace - and allegedly Europe - does in certain ways give off a more Germanic than French feeling, especially in the architecture department. Those typical Alsace characteristics common throughout the region – dramatically elongated steep roofs, magnificent Austrian Baroque-style churches and old beamed (or new mock) houses – remind you of its complex history and geography. This is emphasised by tell-tell place names, with all those -heim and -kirch endings, and alsacien, the ancient local language still widely spoken by mostly older people, which sounds like a dialect of German. Some people will even admit to their “German side” but quickly qualify it by adding: “we’re French nevertheless.” The very brief sightseeing tour of Strasbourg whets my appetite to return sometime, but on this trip I’m heading south into the peaceful and very green countryside. And there sure is plenty of it, this part of north-east France being heavily agricultural and fortunately viticultural too: the region makes some of the country’s best and most distinctive whites wines (more of that later). The heart of Alsace spreads over the two départements of Bas-Rhin, starting well north of Strasbourg, and Haut-Rhin running south beyond Mulhouse to the Swiss border; the Rhine marks the frontier with Germany to the east. To the west the region is sheltered by the brooding Vosges mountains, which help create its exceptional continental climate with hot summers (it hovered around 30-35 in June), not too much rain and very cold winters. We stay in a homely inexpensive guesthouse in the small village of Boofzheim, close to the ‘town’ of Rhinau located right on the Rhine. From here you can walk, cycle or drive onto the non-stop mini-ferry and enjoy the ride on the murky river for the whole minute it takes to cross into Germany. There are good cycle paths on both sides that follow the river for quite a way, ducking in and out of lush woods. Alternatively try the more luxurious, tarmac-ed path beside the Rhône au Rhin canal, which runs from Strasbourg all the way past Marckolsheim. Or simply potter about on a bike from one pretty little village to the next, dotted around this flat plain filled with vast swathes of maize and wheat, smiling ironically at the serious packs of lycra-clad touring cyclists. Alsace people take their food even more seriously, and you can’t leave without tasting delicious specialities such as tarte flambée, a kind of thin-crust ‘pizza’ topped with chopped bacon, onions and cream. Or choucroute of course – one day we rode past a huge choucroute factory near Daubersand, quickly revitalised by the powerful yet enticing waft of fermenting/pickling cabbage – accompanied by Germanic-style pork saucisses strasbourgeoises. The cuisine isn’t terribly vegetarian friendly, unless you like eggs (often farm-fresh) and cheese: it’s compulsory to consume Munster, the classic (and very strong) Alsace cheese, preferably with a glass of sweet vendange tardive Gewurztraminer. The Alsace climate suits aromatic white grape varieties very well, and the often full-ish bodied and usually dry or off-dry varietal wines produced are unique in France: Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Muscat. In certain areas decent rosé-like Pinot Noir wines are also made. The best vineyards are generally found on the lower slopes of the Vosges, and you can easily follow a well-documented wine trail visiting small growers and co-operatives too (www.vinsalsace.com). From the City Life Food & Drink Guide 2003 Wine in restaurants Wine is overpriced in restaurants. Now that I’ve annoyed restaurateurs from Bolton to Altrincham (“what does he know about overheads”), let me add that apparently on average two-thirds of wine sold is house wine. We are drinking more and better wine with food, but diners tend to set a psychological price ceiling and are thus discouraged from experimenting. Serving several wines by the glass justifies higher charges and can be more helpful: diverse dishes demand different wine styles, resulting in better matches than one catch-all bottle might provide. Old Sam’s Chophouse (Chapel Walks) fits the bill nicely with its award winning selection: try Altus Pinotage (£3.50 175ml) from South Africa. At Choice (Castle Quay) the list is indeed wide reaching with over 25 wines available by the glass, covering France and Australia primarily plus global offerings including Château Musar ‘96 (£26, £7.50 175ml) from Lebanon. For those who like a glass of Champagne to start or finish, look no further than the Bollinger Bar @ Le Mont (Cathedral Gardens). Bolly really is something special thanks to its fine balance of richness and intensity. Here it costs £10.50 per 175ml glass (£45 bottle) and they also hold two vintages of the sumptuously yeasty RD. Try Les Délices de Champagne (Triangle/Corn Exchange) for their cake of the day and glass of house Champagne (£5.50); or the Sugar Lounge (Deansgate Locks) where the pull for the moneyed crowd is the huge assortment of no less than 36 Champagnes, half of them rosés. For fans of Italian wine, Stock (Norfolk Street) is the king: the gargantuan list covers every obscure corner of Italy. Pizza Express have broadened to include lesser known wines from the south and islands such as Greco di Tufo (£14.60), a nutty dry white. At Restaurant Bar & Grill (John Dalton Street) the Italian selection is less adventurous but decent: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Pasetti (£14) is a superior example. Sweet is sexy: drinking dessert wine with puds gets overlooked and few places have sweeties by the glass. Croma (Clarence Street) offers Sicilian Passito di Pantelleria and crunchy almond biscotti (£3.70); the Lincoln (Lincoln Square) excels with recommendations such as luscious red Banyuls (£5.50 100ml) with sticky toffee pudding. Whilst I applaud more variety from Spain, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, South Africa, Argentina, California, Germany etc, there’s something satisfying about flying in the face of trends with a staunchly French wine list. Not surprisingly Chez Gérard (Brown Street) wallows in things Gallic and their flights of wine are an excellent idea. ‘Tour de France’ offers a taste of four quality reds and whites for £10. As well as other countries, Velvet (Canal Street) lists Domaine Sippmack’s floral zesty Alsace Riesling (£14.95) and Lounge Ten (Tib Lane) a fruity dry Bergerac rosé from Château Tour des Gendres (£15.20). Unfortunately space limits; out of the city there are wine treasures to be savoured at restaurants such as the White Hart (Saddleworth), Smith’s (Eccles), the Lime Tree (West Didsbury) and Juniper (Altrincham). Wine & beer shopping Independent wine and beer merchants have become an endangered species throughout the country and this is very apparent in Manchester: since the last guide Willoughby’s has closed their city centre shop. Love Saves the Day (Tib Street M4, 832 0777 and Deansgate M3, 834 2266) is an enthusiastic Italian specialist and only charges £3 corkage to drink it there; also good on cider. Olive Delicatessen (Whitworth/Sackville St M1, 236 2360) has really boosted its wine range over the last year, with sound organic selection and plenty of bottled beers. Smithfield Wine (273 6070 www.smithfieldwine.com) sells on the net and concentrates on organic, vegetarian and vegan producers (no animal derivatives used for fining etc.), and is in fact approved by the Vegetarian Society. Of course Selfridges in the City (Exchange Square 0870 8377377) has caused a stir and that’s not just their prices. But I doubt you’ll be making comparisons when strolling the funky seductive wine department. Go the whole hog with Pétrus 1997 at £575, but there are quality wines under £10 such as Portugal’s Casa da Alorna (£7.25) and rarer Western Australian curiosities. Portland Wine Company in Hale (928 0357), along with sister shops Booze Brothers in Sale (962 8752), Macclesfield Wine Co. (01625 616147) and Cote Green Wines near Marple (426 0155) tender a lovingly extensive choice from Burgundy, Australia, Chile etc. There are about 30 real ales too, and they hold regular tasting events. Carringtons do as well, another local mini-group with outlets in Didsbury Village (446 2546), Chorlton (881 0099) and Blackley (795 2198). They import interesting small grower wines especially from France, Italy and Spain and own www.beerbarons.com, a beer drinker’s paradise divided into Belgian, British, German and World. The Wine Warehouse Company (West Didsbury 881 9663) focuses on corporate business and mail order, but the store is crowded with juicy bin-ends. Between Bramhall and Cheadle Hulme you’ll come across the Bottle Stop (439 4904), which boasts being the only local outlet for Cliff Richard’s (apparently hot) wine Vida Nova (£8.99) and a beer range “as good as any across the country”. Suburban Heaton Moor Road is home to a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it wine merchant: ensconced in the back of Booth’s (Stockport, 432 3309) humble-looking grocery/deli are gravity defying piles of well-chosen bottles. An oasis in the vinous desert of north Manchester and beyond is Winos in Oldham (652 9396). Hunt it out on George Street and root around amidst “too many wines” for worldwide surprises: Ribera del Duero Spanish reds are hip apparently. Add to that T. Wright’s in Horwich (01204 697805), which houses a splendid fine wine cellar, and R&R Fine Wines near Bury (762 0022), stockists of Kim Crawford’s New Zealand wines amongst others. Majestic Wine Warehouses (Ardwick 273 2763, Stockport 474 1389) is a national ‘chain’ and PLC but remains independently minded showing real passion for the product. They operate a by-the-case policy, but the bottled beer selection is also worthwhile and competitive.
A review
of the
Gurkha Grill Don’t be put off by this somewhat plain-looking and claustrophobic – or perhaps cosy – Nepalese restaurant (although it was about to be refurbished at the time of writing). The locals aren’t, so you should book at the weekend as it quickly fills up. More importantly the food is impressive with lots of unusual Nepalese specialities plus familiar Indian fare too. Prawn Sandheko (£5.95) starter is generous enough for two to share: cooked simply in green chillies and coriander it’s very hot and fresh tasting. Or try the Aloo Chat (£2): spuds in appetising mustard seed sauce. Gurkhali Chicken (£5.95) is one of their unique dishes and highly recommended, the deliciously well-spiced yet subtle gravy permeating the chicken. From the decent vegetarian selection you could sample Pepper Paneer (£7) or Vegetable Nepal (£4.95). The wine list isn’t bad either offering more New World wines, generally a better match with this style of food. Food
quality: 4½
Wine
glossary
New Zealand wine tasting preview The figures suggest we are a nation of avid kiwi-drinkers – over half of New Zealand wine exports are consumed in Britain – which nevertheless amounts to less than one tenth of the Australian wine we put away. New Zealand’s small production favours a focus on quality and does help explain their higher prices, although occasionally value for money can appear dubious. New Zealand winemakers are descending on Old Trafford cricket ground to hold a mammoth evening tasting next Tuesday 17th. Tickets cost £13.50, which gives you access to 24 leading wineries, and City Life has three pairs to give away to the first three readers who call or e-mail New Zealand Winegrowers in London, as below. This tasting should demonstrate the diversity of the country’s regions and styles. New Zealand is making some fine Champagne look-alikes; Cloudy Bay needs little introduction but their rich toasty Pelorus sparkling wine is lesser known. Other quality fizz includes Rory Brut from Kim Crawford and Hunter’s Miru Miru. Kiwi winemakers are achieving impressive results with Pinot Noir – particularly in Martinborough, Canterbury and Otago – offering elusively fruity and elegant reds. Worth trying: Wither Hills, Hunter’s, Villa Maria, Isabel Estate, Felton Road. Surprisingly full-bodied reds from Cabernet and Merlot are made in Hawkes Bay such as Coopers Creek, Craggy Range or Esk Valley, and Waiheke Island off Auckland e.g. Goldwater Estate.
New Zealand is
also excelling at dry racy Rieslings: Jackson Estate, Allan Scott, Kim
Crawford, Grove Mill and Montana Reserve all deliver. Oh, there’ll be
plenty of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay too! Hot tips
locally: Pelorus
– Majestic, Love Saves the Day, Portland Wine Co, Bottoms Up. Kim
Crawford – E.H Booth’s, Define Food & Wine, Delamere Wines,
Portland, Selfridges, R&R Fine Wines. Hunter’s – Booth’s, Oddbins,
D. Byrne. Wither Hills and Grove Mill – Oddbins. Villa
Maria and Montana – widely available. Isabel Estate –
Carringtons. Esk Valley – Wine Cellar, Portland, D. Byrne,
Define. Goldwater Estate - Winos. Jackson Estate -
Booth’s, Winos, Portland, D. Byrne. Allan Scott -
www.laywheeler.com.
City Life issue 457 - 29 May / 13 June 2002 Are the citizens of Altrincham ready for upheaval? No, how about a nice sandwich then? A refreshingly well timed name at least for this modest but smart new delicatessen, which was opened recently by proprietor Nicolas Meyer-Turkson. Nick is originally from Alsace in northeast France, a region celebrated for its hearty food and excellent white wines, but lived in Germany and Canada before settling in Manchester seven years ago; he’s also worked at Atlas Deli in the city centre. On the food front, Republic is currently offering a selection of freshly made sandwiches; lesser-known cheeses such as powerfully pungent Munster – quelle surprise from Alsace – and tangy Picos de Europa from northwest Spain; various hams, salamis, chorizo and olives; pâtés, pastries and pies; olive oils and other dry goods. Nick is also supplied by local catering entrepreneur Gourmet Design with tasty home-made snacks like smoked salmon fishcakes, lasagne and sausage rolls, and apparently to-die-for cakes: try the carrot or espresso. Nick intends to expand the range of food now he’s up and running. You can sit in and enjoy a coffee, and there are plenty of fresh juices and other soft drinks too such as Lorina Traditional French Limonade. The shelves house a fledgling selection of quality wines e.g. 2000 Sauvignon St. Bris Domaine Sorin (£8.50), 1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Dom. Giraud (£13.50), the cult Massaya 98 from Lebanon (£12.50), and 99 Ghost Gum Shiraz Cabernet from Victoria (£6.50). Nick wants to build this up by renovating the cellar underneath the shop. There’s no shortage of interesting bottled beers, such as Anchor Steam and Liberty from San Francisco (£1.65), Coopers Australian Sparkling Ale (£1.45), Belgium’s splendid Orval (£1.50), Jenlain from France (£1.60) and Mash Ale (£1.05). Deli Republic – 12 Regent Road, Altrincham, 0161 613 0865. Open 10 – 18.00 Monday to Saturday and to 19.00 on Friday, 11 – 16.30 Sunday. Marseille travel - City Life issue 452, 20 March 2002 The EuroStar cut a January-grey, pastel-painted blur through the spacious rural canvass like an Impressionist on speed. It’s only really when you get to Paris – aside from the embarrassingly sluggish chug through Kent followed by 20 minute blackout – that it sinks in you’ve arrived in northern France, without the more customary touchdown. A quick change of stations from Gare du Nord to de Lyon, where we were confronted by a sexy silver and blue, wingless beast waiting to teleport us to the south. This awesome, double-decker TGV is one of a brand-new class that hurtles down the Mediterranean line opened last summer. Three hours later – N.B Railtrack, that’s nearly 500 miles with a top speed of over 180m/hour – we disembarked right into the pounding heart of Marseille. Emerging from the Métro at the Vieux Port, you’re immediately introduced to the city’s evocatively attractive centre and salty sea smell. Suddenly I’m Gene Hackman in ‘French Connection 2’, running alongside dozens of posh yachts and workmanlike fishing boats moored in the port, trying to gun down escaping drug baron Charnier. We stayed for two nights in the boring but safe Novotel, although only because of a promotion (‘Bon Weekend à Marseille’) offered in conjunction with the Tourist Office: two nights for the price of one. On Monday morning we switched to the older, more elegant and soulful Alizé Hotel (quaintly wonky stairs, Van Gogh-esque plain wooden furniture); reasonably priced and worth paying the extra for a room overlooking the Vieux Port, exquisitely illuminated at night. From here, or better still the elevated view from the gloriously conspicuous, landmark cathedral Notre-Dame de la Garde, you get a broader feel for the true size of Marseille. The pretty port instils large seaside town; from above you witness the vast and exciting, urban and suburban sprawl of historic structures, busy and disused docks, functional high-rises and smart beach houses, all of which remind you this is France’s second biggest city. Which also means no shortage of diverse ethnic restaurants such as Algerian, Tunisian and Vietnamese. We were well fed with tasty inexpensive food at three different places on Rue de la République, where the choice is plentiful: La Kahena, Le Roi du Couscous and Vietnam. Hearty eating provided a hardly-necessary excuse to taste the excellent local wines, such as dry rosés and full-bodied reds from Bandol or Côteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, or pick from a decent selection from North Africa. The central districts of Marseille – 15 Parisian style arrondissements form the metropolitan whole – are easily covered on foot. Le Panier, just to the north of the Old Port, is the ancient quarter and lures you in with worn cobbled alleys and steep stone steps (mind the dog shit though, a problem Marseille folk really have to deal with). This area in particular is indicative of an old industrial and maritime city undergoing change and development; an uneasy mix of poor, crumbling or abandoned buildings and gentrifying renovated apartments (sounds familiar?). By using the all-embracing network of cheap buses, you can also quickly escape into the wilderness. Callelongue to the south, beyond the Prado Beaches but still within the chic 8e district, is the starting point for a spectacular coastal mountain walk up the Massif de Marseilleveyre. This is a must-do: the rewards are dreamy vistas of sun-hazed ocean and the nearby islands; gigantic slices of sheer, chalky schistous rock; scary narrow pathways and perfumed pine.
Booth's of Stockport The stretch of Heaton Moor Road running from the station to the Reform Club still retains some loose suburban village charm, with its succinct parade of shops, bank and pubs. And a rather good, blink-and-you’ll-miss-it wine merchant: ensconced in the back of Booth’s (62 Heaton Moor Road, Stockport) humble-looking grocery/deli are many bottles of wine. The selection soon reveals itself as one nurtured by a true wine enthusiast, which is what John Booth is. If John gets excited about a country or region’s wines, then he gets them in big time; hence the range from Portugal or Argentina. John also regularly presents lesser-known wines at his local tastings (for local people…), with a view to stocking them if his customers like them. Recently a new exporter from Western Australia called Palandri tasted its wines, which show good potential even if the reds are a bit young. The thumbs-up went particularly to 2001 Riesling (£7.95), 2000 Solora Chardonnay (£6.95), 2000 Solora Cabernet/Shiraz (£6.95) and 2000 Palandri Shiraz (£9.95), although the latter won’t divulge its true charm and quality for a few months. On Tuesday 5th February John adds a personal touch with his ‘Wines of the Year’, which “to qualify obviously has to be a well-made wine, have good flavours and be of good value…we can discard the Australian and Burgundian wines as lacking value.” Expect Italians, Spanish and “a brilliant French red” from Pic St. Loup, amongst others. The tasting of the Rhone valley on 5th March looks promising; including new vintages of Georges Darriaud’s Viognier and reds les Hauts du Mont and Cairanne, plus St. Joseph and Cornas from Cave de Tain. Friday 15th March Bordeaux with food; 16th April two biodynamic Alsace wineries. Tastings take place at the Reform Club, Heaton Moor Road at 8.00pm and cost £8, except Bordeaux @ £20-25. Ring 0161 432 3309 or johnbooth@lineone.net.
City Centre wine walk & shopping in the Manchester area
City
Centre ‘wine crawl’
Independent wine merchants Portland Wine Company has shops in Hale (928 0357), Sale (962 8752), and Macclesfield (01625 616147) and also Cote Green Wines near Marple (426 0155). Their range is extensive – check out Portugal and Australia – and watch out for producer-cringing Champagne deals. Between Bramhall and Cheadle Hulme you’ll come across the Bottle Stop (439 4904), again well priced and stocked. Heaton Moor Road’s quaintly ramshackle covered parade is home to Booth’s (432 4260): squeeze into the diminutive but crammed wine store at the back and peruse those drooping shelves. Carringtons is another local mini-group with outlets in Didsbury Village (446 2546), Chorlton (881 0099) and Blackley (795 2198). They import interesting small grower wines from France and Spain and often hold dinners, for example, featuring Lebanon’s Chateau Musar. Out in rural Cheshire in Sandiway, Define Food & Wine (01606 882101) is quite a find; they also run quirky events such as a Blues’ night showcasing ‘wines with soul’ and live music in-store! An oasis in the vinous desert of north Manchester and beyond is Winos in Oldham (652 9396); seek it out on George Street, chat with the down-to-earth enthusiasts about their very popular tastings and dig around for treasures from all over the world.
National
‘chains’ |
We arrived at Monastir airport loaded with a double dose of self-satisfaction – the flight only cost £95, and we were now arrogantly leaving behind the package-tour herd scrambling for the reassuring comfort of waiting coaches. But also with a sense of trepidation: first time in Africa, into the late January night on your own. So bolstered by a travel guide we caught the Metro train just outside to Mahdia, the last stop down the coast about 40-50 km. The first peculiarity struck, for European eyes at least: no women to be seen. The next morning we headed for the ‘louage’ (shared long-distance taxi) station and were surrounded by a touting swarm of drivers. After a short wait – they don’t leave until all seats are taken – two more passengers get in, off we went to Sfax, a large forgettable industrial town further down the Mediterranean coast. Here our onward ride south to Jerba boringly took over 2 hours to fill; a fellow traveller was looking anxiously at his watch: “I’m working at six” (in one of the island’s up-market hotels). The landscape progressively got sandier but was still lined by miles and miles of faded green olive trees, flat on the coast with mountains looming behind. The car horn seemed to be a well-used accessory, but to alert rather than rebuke, particularly to the omnipresence of apparently strict police patrols. After a long haul, the brief ferry crossing delivered the taxi on to Jerba and then finally we reached the capital, Houmt Souk, on the north coast of this otherwise tranquil island. The place was a hive of activity, the cafés bustling with sunset-watchers waiting to be called to prayer. Hotel Dar Faiza, located between the old fort and the port, proved an excellent choice (even if a bit difficult to find): quaint, elderly, converted, colonial French manor house and an off-season bargain too. The following day we hired bikes and cycled into town to explore. A gregarious young man – there are plenty of them – approached: “Vous êtes Français?” “Non Anglais…de Manchester.” “Ah, United!” came the predictable response: I wonder what the city’s pre-Ferguson international profile could have been. He was explaining about a wool market happening today then continued in French: “Are you a doctor? I’m sick,” pointing to his head. Quite a sales pitch – not sure what he was selling though, perhaps just a smile. That night we tentatively entered the recommended restaurant La Colombe Blanche at 8.30: bad choice, we wondered as it was empty? But by eleven the place was rocking to full-on North African entertainment: very loud music, mesmerising Arabic songs and dancing. Delicious inexpensive food too – fresh fish soup enlivened by harissa (red chilli paste), followed by couscous and whole fish dusted with cumin and washed down with a decent Tunisian dry rosé. Three separate ‘louage’ rides – made all the more tolerable by friendly, talkative and even flirty (the men) passengers and the dry, austere but stunning scenery – transported us way out west to Tozeur. This ancient oasis town in the desert is only 100km from Algeria and flanked by thousands of date palms and a mirage inducing, dune-hill backdrop. We stayed in the ‘Medina’ (old city), which radiates charm and character with its sand-brick buildings, some crumbling and some being rebuilt, markets, seductive cake shops and curious chatty children, practising their French and asking you for a pen.
The near-final journey took us back northeast to historic Kairouan, which rightfully boasts an easy-to-stroll (despite the highest incidence to date of pesterers and followers all eager to help, probably for a fee) 7th Century walled city, which is dominated by the marvelous not-to-be-missed Great Mosque. Its vast, column edged inner courtyard was fleetingly and hauntingly empty when we visited in the morning; the spiritual moment was shattered by the inevitable, noisy arrival of a package-tour herd. One further taxi – stopping off for a spicy tasty lunch, some bright sunshine and a laid-back stroll in attractive looking (but tourist heavy) Sousse – and then a quick train ride with the locals brought us full circle. Total travel costs came to not much more than 50+ Dinars each (about £25-30).
PerSian wine! “Why the Australians call the Syrah Shiraz isn’t clear – although the Iranian city of Shiraz is thought to have been the birthplace of the grape as long ago as 600BC…” (Oz Clarke’s Encyclopedia of Wine 1999 edition: more recent scientific research has now proved otherwise, by the way). Hence why 27 of them fit snugly onto the wine list at PerSia (Great Northern Warehouse), the new restaurant apparently dreamed up by Parisa Group chief Nader Haghighi, originally from Iran. And an enthralling selection of Syrah/Shiraz it is too, starting in the south of France at a reasonable £9 for Bellefontaine to a ludicrously breathtaking £199 for the cult Aussie Penfolds Grange 1995. Try the lesser-known ’98 Capel Vale Shiraz (£13.50, £8.59 @ Wine Cellar), which has typically Western Australian elegant rustic spice. The enthusiastic list (150 wines) is mostly laid out by grape variety and seems good value compared to many other restaurants, although strangely a bit steep by the glass. Parisa developed from a retail base – the group owns nearly 70 up-market Wine Cellar shops (nearest Uppermill, New Mills, Bolton and Lymm), some with in-store licenced café, and a string of Booze Buster off-licences. The next bold step was to launch Parisa Café Bars – currently 23 and growing and opening soon in the City Centre – which stock a fair chunk of the Wine Cellar range at shelf price plus moderate cash margin. This applause-worthy policy means a much wider choice without the usual 65%-plus rip off (“but the overheads...”) The prices at PerSia are a little higher but should still encourage the wine drinker to experiment. So does it work? “We sell quite a lot of stylish brands like Rosemount and Villa Maria,” says wine buyer David Vaughan, “but the percentage of house wine sold is only about 25-30%. Organic wines are doing well too.” (Parisa Group head office 01925 454545.)
UNCORKED 1998-2000
My
first wine column, February 1998! Most of the wine is made in the province of Mendoza in the west, basically a high-altitude desert against the Andes bordering Chile (I’ll skip the tourist board blurb: “vineyards naturally irrigated by waters gently trickling down the mountains etc.”). The majority of quality wines comes from this region, which apparently sees 350 days of sunshine per year (slightly less than Manchester then). The climate suits red grapes well, and we’re now seeing real quality for money in the £4 - £6 bracket and some top estates are making stunning wines at higher prices than this. Look out for emerging sub-regions such as Lujan de Cuyo, Maipu and Vistalba, where conscientious wineries are concentrating on lower yields, premium grapes in the most suitable sites and careful winemaking. Malbec, found in southwest/southern France in Cahors and Bergerac and occasionally Bordeaux and the Languedoc, has made its home in Argentina crafting some really wacky wines. There also isn’t a shortage of Italian and Spanish grape varieties like Barbera, Sangiovese and Tempranillo, which bridge the style-gap nicely between European subtlety and New World fruit.
So don’t cry for Argentina (apologies for the predictable pun), drink
the stuff - many bars and restaurants now list some, such as Dimitri’s,
Simply Heathcote’s, Primavera and Lead Station.
Recommended Argies:
March 1998
Verdammter Qualitätswein! Bypassing the linguistic minefield of traditional labels by simplifying their packaging, switched-on producers should win the battle to get the message across: grower or brand name plus grape and perhaps region, relegating other verbose information to the back. The Riesling grape is finally beginning to be appreciated (ironically thanks to Oz winemakers), particularly because of its ability to age and partner food well. German Riesling can taste relatively dry, even those not made deliberately so (‘trocken’ styles are very). Lower yielding Riesling from good vineyards makes delicate, zesty, off-dry wines due to high natural acidity balancing the sweetness, which develop oily richness with age.
Recommended Germans:
South Africa: April 1998 issue 353
The Cape seems to have popularised Chenin Blanc (not surprising perhaps when it accounts for 30% of all grapes grown there) by making ‘modern’, well-priced wines with ripe fruit and crisp dryness. Good examples include 1996 Ryland’s Grove Barrel Fermented (Tesco on offer at £3.29) and the stunning 1997 L’Avenir Estate (£4.99 Bottlestop, Bramhall; Booth’s, Heaton Moor; also Heathcotes, Jacksons Row). Sauvignon Blanc is frustratingly unpredictable, as there are too many boring ones. Luckily, the Simonsig 1997 Unwooded offers 'squash a grapefruit in your face' style (£5.95 Portland Wine Hale, Sale), or try the more elegant 1997 Springfield Estate (£6.99 Sainsbury’s, Victoria Wine; also at Heathcotes). Colombard is producing some wonderfully aromatic dry whites, such as 1997 Paarl Heights (£3.69-99 Thresher/Bottoms Up, Co-op, Spar; also Dimitri’s, Deansgate & the French, Altrincham), or often blended with other grapes.
The serious red wine
sipper is also pampered, even if most of the best
stuff costs +£5 off the shelf, but is worth it. The much talked
about Pinotage grape (a native crossbreed of Pinot Noir and
Cinsault) comes in many guises, from simple and quaffable (try
Swartland’s in Bar 38, Canal Street) to dense, smoky and rustic.
Clos Malverne (1997 £5.99 Portland, 1996 £6.49 Oddbins) and 1996
Bellingham (£5.29 Bottoms Up) are closer to the latter. Shiraz/Syrah
shows sexy promise: the style can be distinctly Rhône-like, such as
the big, firm and spicy 1995 Backsberg (about £8 Willoughbys, off
Cross Street); or 1996/7 Savanha brimming with blackberries and
violets (£5.99 Wine Cellar, Oddbins). South African Cabernet
Sauvignon is often more interesting and successful even (can sometimes
be a bit green, unripe and uncharming), when
blended with Cabernet Franc or Merlot, as exemplified by Louisvale,
Stellenzicht, Winelands, Le Riche or Klein Constantia to name just a
few!
July 1998:
Wine in bars part 2 (part 1 seems to
have disappeared from my so-called backup files). Atlas has just unveiled a more adventurous list: try the Pra Soave Classico Superiore 1997 (£10). “Soave, he’s off his trolley,” I hear you say: but this one is serious stuff from one of the best estates and packed with almonds and citrus. As for reds, the Italians go 2 - 0 up dominating the field: the dark seductive southerner Brindisi 1994 (£11) displaying smoky damson and fig fruit. Down in Castlefield, Dukes 92’s list is lacking in information but offers good summer sipping with Lindemans Chardonnay at £1.80 a glass, £9.95 per bottle. If you’re feeling absolutely fabulous, they have Bolly at £27.00: not a bad price for this classy, rich and toasty champers considering how much it is in shops even. Barça favours Spain for house wines (£2.40, £9.95), but if you fancy a traditional Rioja, Faustino V Reserva 93 (£15.50) gives dense rustic fruit, oak and tobacco too!
Heading back into town, stop off at the Pitcher & Piano across from the Bridgewater Hall. Cotes de Duras (south-east of Bordeaux) can be a reliable source of good value Sauvignon Blanc: the P & P’s 1996 (£11) is a crisply green example. I also like their 1996 Salisbury Estate Cabernet Shiraz (although at £13.95 not the price so much) with its forward Aussie fruit but a touch of tannin to balance. Cut to the cool, calm Citrus café bar and enjoy some New Zealand charm in the guise of 95/96 Villa Maria Chardy (£11.25, £6.50 half) caressing you with its soft, peachy fruit. Equally soft but with ripe plums too is Santa Rita 120 Merlot 96/7 at £9.50.
August 1998 issue 361:
Rosé wines Rosé is made from red grapes but only has limited contact with the skins, hence the colour. In fact, the best rosés are made by the ‘bleed’ method (cuvée Lestat perhaps). The juice is ‘free-run’ from good quality grapes such as Syrah/Shiraz or Grenache/Garnacha, i.e. what drains off before applying even light pressure. This is ideal to gain a tad of colour and extra flavour without tannin (leave that for the reds). Enough of the technical – most decent rosé is dry or off-dry and made like dry white wine, but offers more fruit and character than some whites. Which makes them very versatile: perfect chilled for quaffing on their own, particularly al fresco in summer, and successful food-matchers too – Greek salad, fish, light meat dishes, veggie, spicy etc. Image problem? It’s a typical Brit thing (and possibly our crap climate): go to northern Spain or the south of France, to a chic metropolis like Barcelona or smart Provence town like Aix. There, the guys drink it with the girls. And now the Aussies are doing it with gusto, let alone some of our South American friends, soon we’ll all be claiming to have been drinking it for years.
A few rosés for hip Manchester folk to flaunt:
September 1998 issue 363:
Wine in pubs The Lass O’Gowrie (Charles Street) offers no less than twenty wines, of which 50% are well-known New World brands. All are available by the glass with most under £10 per bottle. The Turning Leaf Chardonnay (£10 bottle, £2.30 175 ml glass) is surprisingly good for Gallo: California ripeness balanced by toasty complexity. Winelands Cabernet Sauvignon/Franc (£8, £2.20) combines berry fruit and traditional South African earthiness. They also have guest wines from time to time, according to the glossy list. The same range can be found in Hogshead pubs (Deansgate and Oxford Road), as they are all owned by Whitbread. The Briton’s Protection (Great Bridgewater Street) has a fairly broad and well-priced wine list. The house wines weigh in at a reasonable £1.70 and £7 per glass and bottle respectively, but it’s worth trading up. Wyndham Estate’s Bin 222 Chardonnay and Bin 444 Cabernet Sauvignon (both £10) deliver full-bodied, up-front Aussie drinkability, the red being the more serious of the two. They also have an Amarone della Valpolicella (£14.95) with hand-banging 14.5% alcohol, if you don’t mind losing a few brain cells. You’re spoilt for choice at Mr. Thomas’s Chop House (Cross Street), where the two lists out-perform many restaurants’ including 18 wines by the glass, some of which are specials and displayed on blackboards. The Cuvée de Grignon (£2.50, £8.95) red and white are usually reliable, but try the 1996 Mitchelton Marsanne (£3, £12.65) with its exotic honeysuckle fruit. From the reds, I’d go for 1995 Montecillo Crianza (£3, £11.50), a classic rich Rioja, or 1996 Redwood Trail California Pinot Noir (£3, £11.75), fairly simple and soft but still characteristic of this difficult to pin down grape.
October 1998 issue 365:
Selfridges, the Trafford Centre Back on planet earth, there’s much to recommend from the unusual selection of Spanish, Portuguese and Italian wines. Casa de Saima in Portugal’s Bairrada region makes traditional reds, smoky and tannic; try the 1996 (£7.25). Castillo de Monjardín is one of the leading estates in Navarra (next door to Rioja): their 1995 Crianza (£7.99) shows Bordeaux style with big concentration. The obscure Rías Baixas region in northwest Spain is home to the high quality white Albariño grape: 1997 Lagar de Cevera (£8.95) has lemony zing alongside creamy texture. Difficult to choose from the Italians – perhaps lesser known reds from the south like 1995 Aglianico del Vulture from d’Angelo (£8.50) or whites such as Anselmi’s 1997 San Vincenzo Soave Classico (£8.95). A Loire Valley red is sure to intrigue – 1997 Château de Villeneuve Saumur-Champigny (£8.75) is a good example. For Riesling fans (all 3 of them), they’ve a 1996 Zeltinger Schlossberg Kabinett from Selbach-Oster (£9.50). Pushing the boat out, the 1994 Meerlust Rubicon (£12.75) is one of South Africa’s finest reds, very dense and serious. Selfridges’ California range is also impressive and inevitably rather pricey; however, check out 1996 Il Podere dell’Olivos Barbera (£11.50) with bags of wild fruits and bitter black cherries, or 1996 Cuvaison Chardonnay (£14.50) which dents the wallet but will age magnificently. It’s probably no surprise that Champagne and Port virtually occupy a whole corner: Taylor’s Quinta de Terra Feita 1982 is quite good value at £18.50 and should be drinking well this Christmas. To celebrate in true style, dig deep and go for the ab- fab-ly superb 1990 Bollinger Grande Année (a heart-stopping £44): very rich, classy and complex. Wines are also available by the glass in the food hall to accompany a wide variety of snacks. Selfridges’ House Chardonnay and Merlot are pleasant simple quaffers at £2.95 for a 175ml glass, which hurts a little when you see a bottle for sale at £4.95 in the shop.
January 1999 issue 371:
Wine with curry The wines: 1998 Wirra Wirra Vineyards Riesling, £7.99 Oddbins (zippy and limey); 1997 Penfolds Koonunga Hill Chardonnay, £5.49/99 widely available (ripe and peachy); 1997 Château de Sours rosé, £5.99 Majestic (you’ll have to wait for the 98 as I bought the last two!), £6.49 for the 1996 at Wine Cellar, Fallowfield (very strawberries and cream); 1994 Château le Coteau Margaux, £11.95 Willoughby’s (austere but did open up); 1997 Château de Villeneuve Saumur-Champigny (red), £8.25 Selfridges (herby with medium weight). The dishes: poppadums and chutnies, Mutar Paneer, Chicken Makhani, Lamb Jalfrezi, Chicken Karahi, Chana Masala, Saag, Fish Masala.
The conclusions:
The Loire red was interesting and fared better, being lighter and
higher in acidity. Pretty good with the chicken, spinach and fish;
OK with the lamb although the combination improved on second taste.
In general – full and fruity whites and rosés seem to be the best
bet, but avoid oaky wines. A little sweetness and acidity can also
help to balance. With reds, go for ripe fruit or spice but low
tannin, although overall not a marriage made in heaven.
August 2000:
Booth’s Supermarkets
So, to give a few recommendations, I’ve picked an imaginary mixed
case: All rights reserved © Richard James
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Forgive the loud colours on the header, a somewhat crass attempt at
replicating Manchester's two most famous colours (alas football not
wine). Crammed onto this page you'll find a selection of stuff I did for
City Life magazine, which now really does seem lost in the mists, or
myths perhaps, of time (I lived in Manchester from early 1995 to late
2002, by the way). Sadly,
this what's-on, food, drink, film, music etc. fortnightly, then turned
weekly (quite hip and youthful actually, even if they did publish words
written by an old fart like me - well, I was in my thirties then) has
ceased to be. Sometime in 2005 - I think it was two or three years after I left
town - I assume it was 'suits in plush offices' who decided to ditch it
and merge all the relevant coverage and content with much bigger
circulation, sister paper
