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Bandol
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Not finished! Bandol reds and rosés tasted 7th October 2004: Château Salettes 2000 - Displays a touch of developing dried fruits with rustic notes, quite austere palate showing good grip and decent depth of fruit. 87+ Domaine Maubernard 1996 - Mature minty raisin and liquorice aromas, lovely rich black fruits within a solid framework of dry rounded tannins and great length. 92 Domaine de la Suffrène 1998 - Rustic animal nose, oozes complex fruit on its lovely supple yet grippy and structured palate, seductive smoky length. 93 Domaine de l'Olivette 2000 - Interesting nose of rustic black olive and herbs, quite firm and extracted set against nice maturing fruit on the finish. 89 Domaine de la Laidière 1998 cuvée spéciale (98% Mourvèdre) – complex rustic development plus ripe black fruits and dried herbs, lovely depth of fruit and style offering a coating of attractive tannins and liquorice fruit; high yet balanced alcohol and good grip keeping this delicious wine very much alive, still has power and elegance on the finish. 95-97 2001 (70% Mourvèdre) – richer and smokier than the 2002, delicious ripe complex black cherry / olive fruit, very good concentration yet it’s elegant too, dry but rounded tannins and superb fine finish. 94 2002 (65% Mourvèdre) – attractive youthful cherry fruit on the nose and onto the palate, spicy and pure; juicy quite soft mouthfeel and just a touch of dry tannin show its immediate drinkability, good wine for this lighter vintage. 87 Château de Pibarnon 2001 (magnum) – a little closed to start, opens up to reveal hints of black cherry / berry and peppery intensity; tight framework showing firmness yet finesse, a tad of chocolate oak, liquorice and spice; the structured and elegant length points to a good future ahead of it. 92-94 1998 – lovely developing rustic nose with hints of green and black olives, also some perfumed floral spice comes through; powerful weighty mouthful with firm grip countered by lots of smoky fruit, textured coating and length. 95+ 2000 – aromatic spicy ripe nose, a hint of chocolate on the palate and subdued background fruit, pretty powerful with firm bite of tannins; not expressing itself very well at the moment. 89? 2002 (90% Mourvèdre, 10 Grenache) – fairly forward, aromatic and farmy black olive nose; tighter in the mouth, quite firm but certainly not aggressive showing a tad of sweet oak too, nice fruit and length, pretty elegant v structured; beginning to drink now but will go further. 88 Tasted Sept 2003: 1999 (magnum) - very dense purple/black colour showing some tinges of brown, rich texture and tannic structure but nicely layered with ripe black fruits and hints of oak/chocolate. Drinking quite well now with food but really needs a few years more to mellow. 89-91 Tasted April 2003: 1997 - Turning sweet and dried herby with attractive black fruits v big tannins, powerhouse palate yet concentrated and structured; rich mouthful. 92 1995 - Lovely maturing sweet liquorice nose, quite soft and silky underpinned by remaining touches of firmness, very attractive now, perhaps lacks the structure to go much further.89 1990 - Deliciously complex developing nose offering rich aromas of dried fruits, earth, liquorice and black cherries/berries; sumptuous palate with complex dried fruits, herbs and rustic edges; very long and fine supported by low-key tannin still keeping it alive. 94+ Domaine Terrebrune 2002 (80% Mourvèdre) – attractive pure smoky cherry fruit, showing shades of Sangiovese; a touch of bite and structure set against ‘sweet’ fruit and elegant finish; another good 2002. 89 2001 (80% Mourvèdre) – more closed on the nose than the 2002 with subtle black fruits and violets too; tighter more concentrated palate, enticing intensity of fruit layered with quite firm tannins at the moment, perhaps a touch bitter (although this sample was very cold) yet still has that elegant length and style. 92 1999 Réserve (nearly 100% Mourvèdre) – a bit broody and reduced on the nose, but has lots of ripe black cherry fruit and liquorice in the mouth, very structured and powerful with nice coating of grippy tannins and tight focused length. 94 1990 – maturing rustic dried fruit and black olive, herbal intensity as well; plenty of delicious ripe fruit and soft layered tannins, richness v bite, very long lively finish. 95-97 1987 – supple earthy cherry fruit with a herbal medicine edge; turning quite animal and very ‘sweet’ with underlying tobacco notes, the alcohol carries a bit but this has lovely mature fruit and elegant finish. 92-94 2003 (vat sample) - gorgeous black cherry kirsch aromas underpinned by liquorice, raisins and spice notes; firm structure and bite yet has lovely elegant roundness and length, intense finish. 93-95 Tasted Dec 2003: 2000 - plenty of spicy ripe fruit, again finishes a little hot (a common feature of many 2000s). 86-88 1998 - Some reductive/sulphide notes on the nose but also displays lots of liquorice fruit, richly textured and structured with decent concentration and length. 87-89 La Bastide Blanche (2003s all cask samples.) 2003 Château des Baumelles (80-85% Mourvèdre rest Grenache) – quite rich and rustic with blackberry/cherry, lovely fruit and concentration set against dry but soft tannins, leaving an attractive coating of fruit v chocolate. 89 2003 LBB (80% Mourvèdre + Grenache) - pure spicy black cherry and blueberry fruit, much firmer and more structured than the Baumelles; quite powerful with good length and grip. 89-91 2003 LBB Cuvée Fontanieu (100% Mourvèdre) - dense colour and rich smoky black fruit characters, the fruit closes up a bit on a tight palate showing fine tannins and very long finish. 91-93 2003 Baumelles (100% Mourvèdre) – fruitier cherry aromas, quite open yet complex with nice spicy fruit, dry coating of tannins leaving a grippier finish. 88 2003 LBB (88% Mourvèdre, 12 Grenache) - rustic touches on the nose, nice fruit balancing very firm tannins leading to powerful structured length. 91-93 2003 as above but aged in new demi-muits (600 litre cask) – touches of vanilla and spice but there’s good fruit underneath; different tannin texture, more rounded and chocolaty. 2003 as above but aged in barrique – more chocolate still with coconut notes, again different tannin texture but less character, shorter and woodier finish. 2003 Baumelles (100% Mourvèdre, demi-muits) – very firm and tight, hints of vanilla but also has good fruit concentration. 2001 Baumelles (100% Mourvèdre 14.5%) – a touch baked and meaty, concentrated and firm in the mouth, finishes a bit oxidised and bitter. 80- 2001 LBB Cuvée Estagnol (100% Mourvèdre 14.5%) – quite broody and meaty on the nose with black cherry and liquorice notes, very powerful and firm, big mouthful with thorough concentration and depth. 91 2001 LBB Cuvée Fontanieu (100% Mourvèdre) – lovely black olive and ripe plum, very firm tannins set against super rich fruit, powerful yet hides its 15.5% alcohol well; perhaps a touch bitter and extracted on the finish but has great depth of fruit too, needs 5-10 years to express itself properly. 92 2000 Fontanieu (13.5%) - ‘sweeter’ and more rustic / developed, very concentrated and firm but is finer than the 2001, super finish and length. 93 2000 Estagnol (14%) - complex and smoky, quite soft liquorice and dried fruits on the palate, dry yet nicely textured tannins; more elegant and less beefy than the 2001. 94 1998 Longue Garde ‘non-filtré’ - Attractive ripe rustic notes, full tannins but it’s rounded and relatively smooth-textured; will keep for 10 years+. 93 (Dec 2003) Domaine de la Tour du Bon 2002 – forward cherry fruit, shows fair depth and grip yet drinking well now. 85+ 2004s from vat (with residual sugar) – La Chance (mostly chalk): vivid blackberry fruit with attractive smooth tannins. T du B (more clay) – nice aromatic fruit, much firmer already. 2000 – much more concentrated and firmer than the 2002, quite tight elegant and lengthy on the finish; shows good balance of tannic grip and depth of fruit, 15% gives it extra weight but it works. 92-94 2001 – been open too long but has structure and class. 2001 St-Ferréol - Shows lovely liquorice fruit, great depth, personality and length. 90-92 (Dec 2003) Domaine de la Vivonne 2002 Côtes de Provence Ancienne Propriété Lantéri (84% Mourvèdre, 14 Carignan, 2 Grenache) – lightly rustic peppery aromas, a touch reduced but otherwise offers nice simple fruit and easy drinking. 80 2002 Vivonne (100% Mourvèdre) – aromatic black cherry fruit with peppery spice notes, has a bit of structure and bite against easy fruit, quite open and elegant too. 85 2001 V - powerful blackberry nose, quite big and structured yet has attractive tannin texture, tighter length and grip than the 2002, elegant finish despite the high alcohol (15%). 90+ Domaine Lafran-Veyrolles 2004 (from new 50 hl foudre, 100% Mourvèdre) – gorgeous black cherry & berry fruit with toasted liquorice notes, lovely ripe fruit with nice rounded tannins providing mouth-coating structure, good concentration with fine long finish. 90+ 2004 Cuvée spéciale (probably: if not will go into tradition blend, massale selection vines 15 hl/ha in barriques) – very dense purple/black colour, delicious ripe black fruits with black cherry liquorice notes; very concentrated fruit supported by grippy tannins, firmer yet richer than the tradition blend. 93+ 2003 (virtually 100% Mourvèdre from 2 year old 65 hl foudre for about a year, will be bottled in 6 months or so) – displays some development with complex rustic ripe fruit on the nose, solid grip backed up by good depth of fruit, firm yet quite fine with long structured finish. 90+ 2002 tradition – appealing forward black cherry fruit, a touch of spice and firmness in the mouth with elegant length; attractive now. 85 2002 spéciale (c. 100% Mourvèdre) – smokier and richer than the tradition showing greater depth of fruit and firmer structure, needs a bit more time. 87 2001 spéciale (c. 100% Mourvèdre) – complex rich smoky black fruits tinged with a subtle touch of spicy wood, lovely concentration v firm grip, closed long finish; structured bite v ripeness and stylish coating of flavour, 15.5% gives it power yet it’s still elegant. Needs 5+ years. 94 2000 spéciale (c. 100% Mourvèdre) – more animal and developed than the 2001 showing delicious black cherry fruit, very rich and concentrated with firm coating, power on the finish yet still tight and elegant. Nicer now than the 2001 but will still develop. 95 1989 – attractive farmy dried fruit and liquorice aromas, complex and minty too; quite soft and mature with rustic fruit and oily texture, still structured and alive with long finish; interesting older style. 92 Domaine du Gros’Noré (Mostly Mourvèdre + Cinsault, Grenache and Carignan) 2001 – enticing smoky nose with just a hint of subdued oak, quite tight and firm set against rich depth of fruit. 92+ 2000 – more rustic and developed than the 2001, lovely smoky rich fruit, quite high alcohol yet shows some elegance too, long and quite soft finish with fine tannins. 92+ 2003 (cask) – lively black berry and cherry fruit with a touch of vanilla wood, quite soft actually with light dry tannins, not so concentrated but has good elegant length. 89+ 2004 (cask) – nice rich colour, super depth of fruit balanced by ripe coating of tannins, good length and bite; 16% alc. certainly adds weight, however, it’s integrated. Promising: 92-94. 2004 (stainless vat already blended) – lovely spice and perfume, chocolate and black cherry; richness v elegance, bite and grip v finer finish. 93-95 2004 (diff vat) – similar to above but has grippier tannins and very impressive depth. Domaine Tempier 2004s from vat or cask: 2004 Grenache/Cinsault – very ripe and liquoricey, lacks a bit of structure and depth. 04 Petit Moulin (chalkier plot, “too many clones” and quite young vines) 90%+ Mourvèdre – nice ripe fruit, lacks middle. 04 Vigneret (very poor soils) – spicy blackberry fruit, rich fruit with good bite and structured finish. 04 (mixed soils usually used just for rosé, but “this year there was less stress on the vines so these plots should make good reds too”) – quite chocolatey and spicy oak showing solid fruit and tannins, lacks something though. 04 Cuvée spéciale (vines outside the cellar) – fresher acidity, alcohol is well integrated, grippy but not over-extracted. 04 Tourtine – the new foudre rather shows itself, but the palate is a rich black fruit cocktail; spicy, firm and concentrated. Promising. 04 Cabassaou (old vines, southwest facing: “excellent terroir, exposure.”) - shows real intensity of flavour and concentration, 16% alc is surprisingly submerged under its superb depth of dark fruits, tight fine tannins to finish. 04 La Migoua (50% Mourvèdre) – very different to Cabassaou with fresher acidity, attractive depth of fruit and grip; more subtle style. 2003s from cask: 03 Cuvée classique (75% Mourvèdre + Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan) – shows some developing rustic fruit on the nose, nicely bright and spicy on the palate, good concentration and classic style. 87+ 03 La Migoua (50% Mourvèdre, 30 Cinsault, 17 Grenache, 3 Syrah) – quite oaky at the moment but this should absorb into the wine, quite firm yet with fresher bite too and riper fruit finish. 03 Tourtine (80% Mourvèdre, 10 Grenache, 10 Cinsault) – enticing spicy black berry & cherry fruit, the oak is better integrated than the Migoua at this stage, shows power v finesse and tight firm long finish. 92+ 03 Cabassaou (80% Mourvèdre) – cardboardy, touch of unclean wood? Bit closed up but has good grip v fruit. 2002 Cuvée classique (75% Mourvèdre) – appealing forward maturing aromas enhanced by black cherry fruit, shows reasonable depth and bite plus a touch of underlying oak and light grip. Good for 2002, balanced and drinking now. 85-87 02 La Migoua (50% Mourvèdre) – shows a touch more vanilla with higher acidity lending fresh bite and making it feel firmer, a little hard at the moment but underneath there’s enough sweet fruit. 02 Tourtine (84% Mourvèdre) – a tad reduced but it works, leading to a quite rich palate showing decent ripeness v grip and fair power on the length. 89 02 Cabassaou (picked a week later) – quite a lot of oak flavours coming through, however this shows much deeper structure and bite of tannins/acidity, tight long finish. 90 Tasted April 2003: 2001 Cuvée Classique (in barrel) - Rich and spicy, nice black fruits and cherries, good power and structured finish. 89 2000 Cuvée Classique - Also quite reduced but leads to a classy mouthful, 14.5% alc isn’t really obvious as it’s very structured and lined with very concentrated fruit, combined with some fresher acidity; closed, elegant yet powerful finish too. 90 2000 La Migoua - A touch spicier with richer black plum fruit, lovely palate suffused with ripe coating tannins that add impression of sweetness, which is cut by 15% alc and fresher acidity developing to elegant finish. 92+ 2001 La Migoua (in barrel) - Lively fruit coats the mouth with lots of attractive ripe tannins to finish. 90+ 2001 La Tourtine (in barrel) - Similar depth of fruit and tannins but more intense and structured. 91-92 2000 La Tourtine - Firmer and tighter than the Migoua, pretty big and extracted but has massive liquorice fruit depth with hints of menthol too. 92+ 1982 Domaine Tempier - Getting quite brown but displays lovely complex dried raspberry and cassis fruit, rustic and sweet; mature and soft but still has some freshness and structure underneath the sweet liquorice fruit; completely delicious with real elegance and length too. 95+ Domaines Ott Château Romassan 2004 (from cask 100% Mourvèdre) – perfumed tangy black cherry/olive fruit, shows good depth v a lighter touch, subtle bite of tannins and acidity lending the framework to an elegant heart. 2003 (from cask 100% Mourvèdre) – bright cherry fruit with peppery spice and rustic touches, higher alcohol and bigger/clumsier than the 04, firm with warm finish. 2001 (60% Mourvèdre, Grenache 15%, Cinsault 15%, Syrah 10%) – a bit oxidised from being open too long, but this has quite tight and spicy black fruit, the tannins are a bit firm like bitter coffee; perhaps needs a little longer in bottle to open up. 2000 Longue Garde (60% Mourvèdre, Grenache 15%, Cinsault 15%, Syrah 10%) – Spicy liquorice and raisins with complex maturing aromas, seduces with ‘sweet’ fruit and minty notes, ripe liquorice finish bolstered by firm coating of tannins and good length; drinking now but will develop further. 90+ Château Sainte Anne 2001 (60% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache, 20% Cinsault) – very perfumed floral raspberry, black cherry and blackcurrant with rustic edges, leathery notes on the palate yet shows very ripe tannins backed up by smoky fruit, elegant concentration and length. Drinking now but will last many years. 92+ 2001 Cuvée Collection (95-98% Mourvèdre) – delicious complex nose displaying ripe plum, raspberry and cherry with mint and leather too; concentrated, ripe and rich, more animal than the regular 2001 yet finer and rounder as well, has more substantial grip softened by subtle length of liquorice flavour. 94 2000 Collection – less advanced on the nose than the 2001 and spicier too, smoky rustic fruit to start but it closes up showing firmer structure; the solid concentration and grippy tannins do yield to ripe liquorice in the background, not very obvious on the finish. Needs time. 92-94 1999 Collection – Somewhat rustic, smoky nose but perfumed and complex with rich liquorice, damson and black cherry fruit; lovely concentration in an elegant natural way, maturing fruit and soft yet dry tannins linger very nicely. 90+ 2000 tradition – offers hints of leather, liquorice, black plums and spices; quite tight and grippy mouthfeel yet is once again finely textured. 90+ 2002 tradition – farmy smoky dried fruits, complex interesting aromas with herbal minty notes too; soft, rustic and mature yet still retains depth of liquorice and chocolate fruit, very charming considering 02 was an average year. 87-89 1998 Cuvée Collection - faulty bottle (I hope): very volatile, acetic in the mouth. 69- (Dec 2003) Château Pradeaux Tasted Dec 2003: 1999 - Volatile but shows mature ripe black fruits with raisin edges, soft and rustic against a bit of remaining structure; acetic acid level is quite high. 82 2003 (cask sample) - very fruity and spicy, leading to attractive sweetness then dry grip and solid length. 90+ |
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"The costumed tradition of ‘les Vendanges du Rond-Point des Mourvèdres’ –
harvesting 225 Mourvèdre vines planted on the roundabout near motorway exit La Cadière-Le Castellet north of the town of Bandol – took place on Thursday 7th
October in temperatures of over 25°C..."
Click here to read this report written for Decanter.com The ceremonial picking
and pressing of grapes were followed by a tasting at the roadside - I've
highlighted a dozen mixed Bandol reds and rosés...