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 The Roussillon, present and
future: a mini-thesis
Master of Wine or Master of Methodology? OK, it's a case of sour
grapes: the IMW failed
this dissertation outright. While I still believe some of their
criticisms were unjustified or inaccurate, I accept it's no masterpiece but wasn't given the chance to
improve and resubmit it. So if you have the time
and inclination, read on by clicking on the link above or below ("be brutal," I'm
used to it). Anyway, hats off to all those who've managed to walk the MW
dissertation tightrope, you're a better man/woman than me. I've now lost
all enthusiasm for the kind of formulaic work that currently seems to be
required, apparently more about methodology than wine. Still, I did pass
the exams at least...
"The Roussillon is usually
referred to along with the Languedoc as forming the largest wine region in
France. Although there are parallels in terms of wine styles, production
structure and social issues (linked to the industry’s importance as an
employer); Roussillon has a distinct identity and culture, as well as
different climate and terrain, with a considerably smaller area under vine
than the Languedoc. Nevertheless, the Roussillon’s image for wine remains
largely polarised or unknown.
With its history of
producing Vins Doux Naturels (VDN) fortified wines to satisfy once
substantial, and lucrative, domestic demand (over one third of plantings is
still dedicated to this); the region has had to face the challenges of
adapting to changing tastes and markets. However, Roussillon winemakers have
already revealed new dynamism based on the belief that the area is capable
of offering a rich diversity of styles including value-for-money brands,
Mediterranean varietals, fine estate wines and icon reds, in addition to
unique sweet wines..."
Read on...
 Climate
Change and Wine, Barcelona 15 February 2008
A taster:
“The hotel manager just told me the pool outside the building will be
confiscated,” Pancho Campo announced - president of the
Wine Academy of Spain and organiser of last week’s ‘Climate Change and Wine’
conference in Barcelona - as an example of the Spanish government’s new
measures to reclaim water and reduce irrigation...
Viticulture consultant Richard Smart said that “Australia will see
shrinkage of possible grape growing regions towards the southern coasts
and altitude,” yet 70% of them are currently along the Murray River
centred on one of the hottest areas around Mildura. “If average
temperatures increase by over 2°C, we’re not sure what will happen..."
Tony Sharley from Banrock Station based in Mildura said irrigation was
“the biggest mistake we’ve made in Oz in the last 50 years...”
Vicente Sotés said “there’s no available land above 43° North in Spain,
and in Rioja plantings already go up to 600m.” New high-altitude vineyard
projects include the Canary Islands, Sierra Nevada in Granada and Pyrenees
foothills, where Torres has already made a move...
"...Carbon footprint for Yellow Tail – 12 million case
sales, glass sourced locally, no barrel ageing, loaded into
containers and trucked to port then shipped directly into e.g. LA or port
& train to NYC. CO2 emissions = 2.2 kg per bottle production +
distribution = 3.44 kg / bottle x 12m cases..."
Read on...
 Touring Crozes-Hermitage country
Part of this feature was originally written for the website
www.winetourisminfrance.com
"Crozes-Hermitage literally stands in the
imposing shadow of the Hermitage hillside vineyard, but do the wines lag
far behind in its awesome wake? The busy little town of Tain l’Hermitage,
on the Rhone’s right bank north of Valence, forms the heart of the
appellation (AOC) and where the eponymous hill starts to rise steeply,
immediately behind the station, adorned with placards carrying those oh-so
famous names (Chapoutier, Jaboulet…) and the landmark Chapelle revered by
wine lovers around the globe."
Read
on...
 'CRAV -
100 years of protest'
"Richard James tracks the history
and current state of a militant batch of French wine activists..." A
shorter version of this feature was published in the December 2007
issue of
Decanter magazine. A brief report drawing comparisons between
1907-2007 in the Languedoc and Roussillon: demonstration, uprising,
co-operatives and winegrowing upheaval in the south of France. Many
thanks to Jean Clavel, Rémy Pech and others who provided invaluable
information and views for this article.
“We’re at the point of no return. Be
the worthy successors of the 1907 revolt, when some died to allow future
generations to live off their land.” This grim warning was issued in May
2007 to France’s fresh-faced President by hooded men shot in sinister
video-footage (source: France3/AFP). It’s more reminiscent of a bloody
broadcast from El Qaeda or ETA than a handful of angry winegrowers in a
sleepy Languedoc village. One month before, explosives were set off
outside supermarkets from Nîmes to Capestang. And the July 3 bombings -
the morning after a demonstration in Béziers and day before the European
Commission (EC) published wine sector reforms - mark a disturbing twist,
as this time the target was Co-operative Cellars’ Federation
headquarters in Montpellier and Narbonne..."
Read on...
Waitrose wine magazine (allegedly)
Last year I was commissioned to do a few introductory pieces for a
possible new wine magazine to be published by
Waitrose (for those of you outside the UK, it's a superior supermarket
chain owned by the John Lewis Group with a more enlightened wine range
than some). Whatever happened between then and now behind the corporate
scenes, my purple prose never saw the light of day and Waitrose has
since launched a funky little drinks mag called Thirst. Anyway, I'm not
very surprised they changed their plans as they already produce the glossy
monthly Food Illustrated with wine articles by writers such as Andrew
Jefford and Tim Atkin; as well as other features, interviews and food
matching tips on their website. My four snippets here were written to a
specific brief and are a little déjà-vu / back-to-basics / textbook in
style, but I thought somebody out there still might find them an
informative read:
"Standing
among the vines in a dramatic wine region setting can give simple pleasure
and peace of mind, yet a vineyard’s location and environment also greatly
influence how vines grow and the quality of grapes they produce. French
winemakers in particular attribute this to the all-encompassing, slightly
mysterious terroir. The word is basically untranslatable into English but
has geographical and cultural overtones..."
Read on...
 Roussillon's Identity Parade
An edited (and inaccurate) version of this article was published in the 11 May 2007 issue
of Harpers wine & spirit weekly.
"The Roussillon, apparently permanently
chained to its larger and more talked-about sibling the Languedoc, isn’t
perhaps the obvious place in the ‘new South’ to come up with popular
brands and innovative labels that will take the UK by storm. There are
less than 30,000 hectares (ha) under vine – below 10% of the surface area
of Languedoc-Roussillon as a whole – with over one third of this dedicated
to production of Vins Doux Naturels sweet wines. In addition, average
yields are relatively low at 35-40 hl/ha (all CIVR figures for 2006
vintage). Fifty co-operative cellars – dwindling in number yet
increasingly dynamic – account for 70-75% of the region’s volume. On the
other hand, around 450 independent growers are blazing an alternative
trail making ‘artisan’ wines; and in-between sit certain high-profile
estate owners cum merchant houses..."
Read on...
Southern French Muscat
A shorter edition of this report was published in Off Licence News on 9th
March 2007.
"The ‘Rencontres Mediterranéennes du Muscat’ might sound
like a dating agency for southern European winegrowers; but Perpignan’s
second Muscat showcase prompted further investigation into the variety’s
current standing and future potential in the UK. Firstly: traditional
‘vins doux naturels’ or other sweeties from the Roussillon - the leading
producer - Languedoc and southern Rhône. Secondly: developments in dry
Muscat styles and what retailers think of them..."
Read on...
 Fitou
splits from Languedoc
This story was posted on
www.decanter.com on 1/12/2006.
"The entire
Fitou appellation and its producers have left the CIVL, the regional
association of Languedoc wineries. When revealing export marketing budgets
at the CIVL’s AGM in Narbonne, Fitou’s letter of resignation was also
conspicuously on the agenda..."
Read on...
South of France earmarks €7 million for export
An edited version of this news item was posted on
www.decanter.com on 25/11/2006.
"Ambitious plans were announced by
Languedoc wine producers at their recent AGM in Narbonne. In an
unprecedented move to boost export sales, around half of the overall €15
million budget has been allocated to key European, North American and Far
East markets..."
Read on...
 Finding
Fenouillèdes country
This article is published in English and French on the wine travel website
www.winetourisminfrance.com
"Whichever map
angle you approach the Fenouillèdes region from, you’ll quickly be invaded
by the primal beauty of the unforgiving terrain that cradles its
vineyards. Draped across a dramatically wild, elevated valley landscape
bridging Corbières and French Catalonia, you can kick off a wine route on
its eastern side coming from Perpignan airport, around the villages of
Calce, Estagel and Tautavel; or from the west between Caudiès de
Fenouillèdes and St-Paul de Fenouillet. The latter choice is recommended,
if you’re travelling down from Carcassonne via Limoux and Couiza then
winding your way through the scary Gorges de Galamus. Between St-Paul and
Estagel, dotted along and south of the D117 valley road, the villages and
wines of Lesquerde, Maury, Caramany, Rasiguères and Latour de France all
grab your attention..."
Read on...
Understanding Mourvèdre
"Comparing Mourvèdre's European growing characteristics and winemaking
styles provides an understanding of its U.S. potential..."
A tweaked version of this feature was published in the August 2006 issue
of Wine Business Monthly and on their website
www.winebusiness.com
Dial M for Mourvèdre…Monastrell…or
indeed Mataro
"The very fact that it
has (at least) three names says a great deal about this migrant,
mystifying and misunderstood variety. It depends on where in Europe or the
‘New World’ you find yourself, although Mourvèdre seems resolutely ‘Old
World’ wherever it’s grown. Early confusion over synonyms and vine
provenance, let alone erratic performance, cannot have helped further
understanding or interest in planting it elsewhere. This report explores
climate, vineyard location, plant material and viticulture in some of the
regions where the variety excels. A comparison of techniques, philosophy
and styles across southern France, Spain, Australia, South Africa and
California thus aims to offer a broader perspective on the potential for
high quality American Mourvèdre/Mataro varietals or blends, as well as
imported wines..."
Read on...
 Languedoc-Roussillon feature
From the 21st July edition, 2006, of UK business fortnightly Off Licence News.
"Limitless, dramatic: the Languedoc-Roussillon
is a wild landscape of contrasts. Demos and dynamite, dynamic estates and
brave new brands. While we should, of course, sympathise with stranded
growers asking for more help from a distant Paris; it was Vinisud, the
showcase for Mediterranean wines held in February, which took Montpellier
by storm in the most constructive sense. Unfortunate use of words perhaps,
in light of the isolated desperate acts that scar the region. But it’s
clearly the numerous creative winemakers, who are signposting the future
path for the South. This report looks at some of the new success stories
from the region and latest developments in building a cohesive approach to
marketing in the UK..."
Read on...
 "Italy's great
white hope: Pinot Grigio"
This ran in the 9th June 2006 issue of British trade paper
OLN.
"Perceptive readers might have noted with
interest the apparent paradox between two items in the 12th May issue of
OLN. One story had M&S enthusing: “the sexy and magical words Pinot Grigio…
(have) more resonance with shoppers.” The other, from a recent Wine
Intelligence survey, stated that “only 55% of monthly wine drinkers can
identify Pinot Grigio as a type of white grape.” The first follows some
kind of positive, consumer ‘brand’ acceptance; on the other hand, they
aren’t necessarily recognising it as a grape variety. So is the Pinot
Grigio star phenomenon still in the ascendant, or are there signs that PG
is passé?"
Read on...
Armagnac trip autumn 2005
This report appeared in the UK retail
trade paper OLN on 9th December 2005, and it can also be found on
Graperadio.com (Over the Barrel,
volume 2 number 1) and
BKWine.com
 "Watching Marc Saint-Martin stoke up
Marie-Jeanne’s fire with chunks of dry wood evokes romantic images of
steam trains and times gone by. It’s actually the name of his “probably at
least 100 year old” travelling still: each one has a story to tell and
emphasises the artisan nature of Armagnac production even today. Once he’d
finished his first batch over the weekend, he was off touring around with
two mobile units distilling for other small producers before returning to
his makeshift cellar (a huge dilapidated barn about to be restored) to
carry on non-stop until Christmas..."
Read on...
Once upon a time in the South…
Published in UK business fortnightly OLN on July 22nd 2005.
 "Once upon a time in the South…there were wines called Corbières and
Coteaux du Languedoc. Now sweeping changes are afoot to both
rationalise and diversify the AOC hierarchy and names across the
Languedoc-Roussillon. An unenviable task for a region covering
300,000 hectares, where entrenched (and occasionally dangerous)
tradition goes hand in hand with progressive export-driven
producers. So watch out for La Clape, Grés de Montpellier,
Saint-Chinian Berlou and straight Languedoc. Confused? Well, there is
admirable logic behind all of this..."
Read on...
 Provence
in the pink... rosé road trip
A version of this wine touring piece first appeared in the summer
2005 edition of Redhot, the in-flight
magazine of Virgin Express:
more
info here.
"It’s official: rosé wines are hot. Maybe it’s down to the success of
those vibrantly pink, alcoholic fruit bombs from Australia or
California; or sophisticated habits picked up in the south of France
and Spain; or perhaps it’s global warming changing our taste buds…
And the international ‘Mondial du Rosé’ competition held in Cannes in
April further proves how seriously these wines are taken..."
Read on...
Is there a d'Oc in the house?
Published in the weekly trade magazine Harpers on 4th February 2005.
"Languedoc may well mean ‘tongue of the Oc’, but growers in the
region have only just begun to speak the same language. To cynical
eyes, the recent creation of a mega producers’ association
representing the whole of Languedoc-Roussillon, as well as the new
regional Languedoc AOC, might look like more bureaucratic hurdles
for embattled French wine exporters. However, a fresh spirit of
cooperation and desire to simplify things have emerged, as
illustrated by the ‘Printemps du Languedoc-Roussillon’ tasting in
London on February 15th, also held in conjunction with Vins de Pays
d’Oc producers..."
Read on...
'Screwcaps and beyond'
by guest wine writer Paul White
This detailed article was first published in
World of Fine Wine magazine in the August 2004 issue. I've
reproduced it here with Paul's kind permission to offer a different view
on this news item I posted on 16/11/04:
New Zealand takes lead in
screwcaps as wine closures. Other related stuff on winewriting.com:
Lingenfelder goes screwy, Laroche Chablis cork v screwcap (temporarily
missing).
"It should be
increasingly clear that screwcaps aren’t at all what they’ve been
cracked up to be. Evidence increasingly suggests that they are as
potentially faulty, albeit from a different set of faults, as either
corks or synthetic stoppers. Before I dig myself any deeper into this
contentious little hornet’s nest, let me declare up front that I have
absolutely no preference for cork over screwcaps over whatever. I’ve had
both magnificent and absolutely dreadful wine sealed under both corks
and screwcaps. Like most consumers, all I want is to have wine delivered
to me fault-free with a degree of consistency. If it’s wine intended for
early consumption I would want it to be fresh and ready to drink without
being disjointed or excessively harsh. And where it’s a fully matured,
bottle aged wine, I would hope for the sublime heights of the finest old
wines I’ve tasted so far under the best corks..."
Read on...
 Languedoc wines speak the same language
Here's the original version of my story published by
Decanter.com on
14/12/2004.
"The Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc (CIVL) has
revealed plans to promote all the different appellations (AOC) under
the one umbrella of ‘Languedoc’, and to work together with other
producers to push the idea of ‘South of France’ in export markets..."
Read on...
 Bandol harvest finishes early
An edited version of this news story first appeared on
Decanter.com
on 14th October 2004.
"The costumed tradition of ‘les Vendanges du Rond-Point des
Mourvèdres’ – harvesting 225 Mourvèdre vines planted on the
roundabout near motorway exit ‘La Cadière-Le Castellet’ north of the
town of Bandol – took place on Thursday 7th October in temperatures
of over 25°C, despite threats of rain issued by weather
forecasters..."
Read on...
Big Turkish export push
An adaptation of this report was first published on
Decanter.com
on September 30th 2004: I've since added a bit more info and opinion.
Click here to view my notes on wines
tasted on this delight-ful (ho ho) Turkish wine trip.
"Turkish wines are set to hit the UK as importer Alaturka teams up
with two major producers to concentrate on exports. UK agent
Alaturka will spearhead this export drive for wines from Turkey in
partnership with Doluca and Kavaklidere, the two largest wineries in
an industry previously lacking in co-operation..."
Read on...
Pass the Bolly
Notes and views on the Champagne market and the art of blending,
based on a presentation to MW students on 17th May 2004 by Ghislain
de Montgolfier from Champagne Bollinger. After the text, you'll find a few
ecstatic tasting notes and reviews
(well, Bolly is pretty good, no?)
of the
'finished product' including
Special Cuvée, La Grande Année 1990-95-96-97 and the incomparable
one-off 1985 RD ("if it's the 85, you were expecting me," as 007 might have said...).
Read on...
France’s second longest river has inspired us to ‘think red’, ride
with Rhône rangers and even roam with goats...
Report on Rhône Valley wines published by OLN on
August 6th 2004.
Read on...
“I’ll be back,” as Austria’s most famous export, Governor
Schwarzenegger, once put it...
This feature on Austrian wine came out in OLN on
July 23 2004.
Read more of this article...
Burgundy growers disagree with proposals for AOC reform
A version of this news item first appeared on
Decanter.com on
16/7/2004.
"Growers and producers from the BIVB, the region’s main trade body,
issued their initial reactions to President of the INAO – the
organisation that sets and enforces the rules for French Appellation
d’Origine Contrôlée wines – René Renou’s plans for AOC reform,
presented at a packed meeting last week..."
Read on...
TIME OUT South of France - Provence & the Côte d'Azur
A version of the following wine touring feature appears in the fully
updated 2004 edition of this essential guide to the region. Click
here for more info on the Time Out website and buy the book!
As you’ll soon notice when travelling around, the south of France is
awash with vast areas of picturesque vineyards: sometimes endless
rows forming great flat planes, sometimes impossibly steep or rocky
terraces. The volume of wine produced between Perpignan and Nice is
breathtaking, but there’s been a dramatic shift in thinking. The
southeast generally seems less dynamic than the
Languedoc-Roussillon, nevertheless there’s plenty of good wine to be
found amidst the plonk. Provence and the Côte d’Azur are home to a
bewildering array of wine regions: from miniscule Palette just east
of Aix and Nice’s bijou Bellet to the huge sweeping Côtes de
Provence and Coteaux d’Aix; up-and-coming Costières de Nîmes, Côtes
du Ventoux, Cairanne and Rasteau to established royalty like
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Bandol. The relatively hot and dry
climate prescribes red grape varieties foremost, although certain
appellations are rated for their whites such as Cassis...
Read more of this article...
Austrian adventure
A version of this feature was published on 16 April 2004 in Harpers
wine & spirit weekly
You can almost see their eyes roll in time to the crescendo of
Mahler’s 5th, when an Austrian grower is told yet again their wines
are great but too expensive. To fully appreciate Austria’s position,
a cool reminder is required placing them in the context of world
production. A recent visit covering regions such as Burgenland,
Thermenregion, Kamptal and Wachau provided a fascinating insight
into what is happening on the ground in terms of viticulture and
winemaking. To date, distribution in the UK is at best niche. There
is, however, no shortage of ideas or activity for the marketing and
sale of Austrian wines. The innovative DAC ‘appellation’ system
could prove an asset, and what of the potential of brands or even
cult wines?
Read more of this article...
Côtes de Provence – Massif des Maures
Click here for full tasting notes of all the wines
A day trip in early November 2003 took in a handful of wine estates
dotted along the peaceful (at that time at least) coastal strip
between Hyères and St. Tropez, skirting the edge of the Massif des
Maures. Four of these were so-called Cru Classé properties: Château
Sainte Marguerite, Clos Mireille (Domaines Ott), Château de
Brégançon and Château Minuty. This dubious classification dating
from 1956 holds no credible status in terms of official criteria for
superiority, but it certainly pumps up the prices and the drinker’s
expectations. However, some of the Cru Classé wines are undeniably
very good and swim gracefully above the shoals of mediocrity found
in the vast sea that is the Côtes de Provence. I also visited
Château Barbeyrolles and tasted the juice of their other estate
Château la Tour de l’Evêque, and additional wines from the Ott
stable...
Read more of this article...
Pastis
Published in OLN 28 Nov 2003
It’s an old cliché – it just doesn’t taste the same back home – but
this seems so true when applied to pastis. Best enjoyed sitting
outside a bar in the south of France, soaking up the rays and
partaking in the full ritual: slowly add water from one of those
cute oh-so-French jugs, watch the ice swirl and the drink turn
opaque. But this cultural flavour experience doesn’t appear to
translate as well to northern Europe and beyond. So who’s drinking
pastis – and which brands – in the UK and other countries?
Read more of this article...
Macho Mourvèdre
Le Rond Point des Mourvèdres. Magnificent, a roundabout dedicated to
Mourvèdre: must be a good omen. This scene-setting statement, which
can’t be ignored if you take motorway exit 11 La Cadière-Le
Castellet to the north of Bandol, lets you know immediately who’s
boss around here. For majestic mythical Mourvèdre shapes not only
the heart of the Appellation legally, but also the hearts and minds
of the growers here.
Read more of this article...
Alsace travel in brief
City Life issue 498 August 2003
You get a nutshell glimpse of Strasbourg taking the groovy
Mancy-style tram (although a touch more ‘Space 1999’) from the main
station, which weaves through various clean-cut squares and shopping
streets. The capital of Alsace - and allegedly Europe - does in
certain ways give off a more Germanic than French feeling,
especially in the architecture department...
Read more of this article...
HOT south of France & Rhône
Harpers on-trade magazine, July/August 2003 issue
“Château Latour, c’est le Pibarnon de Pauillac.” This facetious and
flattering quip by the French magazine Le Nouvel Observateur -
comparing Château Pibarnon (a leading estate in Bandol nestling
between Marseille and Toulon) and that slightly more famous property
in the Médoc - does in fact raise significant issues. Very few wines
outside the ‘classic’ regions, let alone in the south, have such a
reputation and saleable clout. So is there a place for the South of
France and the Rhône on our wine lists, and how are they and French
wines generally going down in restaurants and bars?
Read more of this article...
L’Ambassade des Vignobles, Marseille...
Wine magazine June 2003
This vast tranquil square is easily found just a stone’s throw from
the traffic lining the south side of Marseille’s historic Vieux
Port, at the bottom of a steep ascent to that other postcard
landmark, Notre Dame de la Garde. On the port side, touristy
restaurants offering bouillabaisse aplenty dominate; in the furthest
southwestern corner sits L’Ambassade des Vignobles. The building is
very old, the walls made of near-crumbling stone with dark wood
beams above. However it’s smart in style but unstuffy in atmosphere;
this is the South after all.
Read more of this article...
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Pomerol February 2003: invasion of MW students (part one)...
Vieux Château Certan
Alexandre Thienpont – third generation proprietor, vineyard manager
and wine maker – is very much a terroir man. I know this word, this
concept, is bandied about ad nauseum, particularly by French wine
growers and sometimes for the wrong reasons or without real meaning.
But in this case it holds true: Alexandre’s philosophy and, on the
surface, simple approach does translate through to his wines.
“Everything is done in the vineyard, in the winery we just ferment
juice with no improvements. Quality has been built up from
generations of trial and error in the vineyard.”
Read more of this article...
Pomerol February 2003: invasion of MW students (part two)...
Château Le Pin
Reluctant to leave Vieux Château Certan so soon, we moved on
animatedly to cult estate Château Le Pin just a stone’s throw away.
Passing motorists found some amusement in dodging a coach-load of
people, each armed with dripping tasting glass in hand, strolling
down the road in two columns in opposing directions. The second
group was drifting up from Le Pin heading for VCC; we couldn’t all
visit together as the cellar at Le Pin is too small, in true
‘garage’ style. Owner Jacques Thienpont and his wife Fiona Morrison
MW greeted us outside the ordinary-looking house/cottage/bungalow (I
don’t think they live there), the best vantage point to survey the
whole two hectares that make up the property. Jacques bought the
vineyard in 1979 – unknown at the time but VCC used to buy one
hectare of fruit from it – paying one million Francs for 1 ha
(envious to think what it’s worth now), then acquired selected
parcels around it.
Read more of this article...
Italian wines
OLN April 2003
Keeping their fingers crossed was never going to be enough for
Italian wine producers with a presence on UK off-licence shelves.
After at least two successive years of increasing their market
share, the figures suggest a downturn in sales. In 2002 Italy lost
about 5% of its value share of the take home market, but still
occupied third slot with 10-11% in value and 12% in volume. Jan/Feb.
2003 MAT data confirms a further slightly downward trend (all stats
ACNielsen). In addition a difficult 2002 vintage resulting in lower
volumes and possibly quality isn’t going to help.
Read more of this article...
"With the onslaught of the New World, German wines stand little
chance of surviving..."
An essay in defence of German wine: originally written in 2002 but
the ideas still hold up!
Onslaught is an extreme, emotive word. To substantiate or reject
this statement, it’s necessary to briefly look at statistics of the
performance of German versus New World wines in a few different
markets (essentially whites bearing in mind they form 75% of
Germany’s production). It’s clear Germany has lost share in the UK,
for example, but what is happening elsewhere and, in contrast, does
this hold true for all styles and qualities? We also cannot
generalise about the so-called New World, and price and volume
issues need to be considered. We have to look at some of the
background problems hampering Germany in the face of competing
countries, such as image, packaging, communication to the consumer,
brands and wine styles. But in addition to analyse what traditional
German wines have got to offer and the success - or not - of the
so-called ‘new wave’ initiatives. And finally the question of the
much talked about Riesling revival.
Read more of this article...
Restaurants, bars and clubs: Edinburgh & London...
Refresh magazine March 2003 issue
Energetic Edinburgh is bursting with lively restaurants, bars and
cafés, available in all shapes and styles to suit. The whole
Broughton Street ‘district’ is so hip it even has its own website
(www.broughtonstreet.co.uk), which offers a useful guide to the
area’s establishments.
Read more of this article...
Valentine’s Day drinking & eating...
Refresh magazine Feb. 2003 issue
The mere suggestion of drinking sparkling rosé might induce a wince
or a tut, but the best ones are more serious than their pretty
colour or perceived image implies. The key is to use high quality
red grapes – Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier mostly – which are crushed
and briefly left soaking with their skins, then the juice is drained
off taking its seductive pink tinge with it. Having said that, most
rosé Champagnes aren’t made like this but are a blend of red and
white (Chardonnay) wines; the fizz and unique taste are then created
in the usual way by slow second fermentation in bottle and ageing on
the yeast.
Read more of this article...
Chine Rouge Manchester...
WINE magazine Feb. 2003 issue
This grand swish establishment is a newcomer to Chinatown and offers
refinement, cosiness and high camp courtesy of Manchester
institution Francis Carroll (of Lounge Ten fame). The interior is
glorious: black painted and red padded walls neatly matching red
benches, low black armchairs and red stained wooden floorboards. A
giant Buddha sits observing amidst candles, Chinese umbrellas above
on the roof, marble-affect pillars ornamented with kitsch oriental
designs and a large painting of two Geishas or lady-boys drinking.
(Picture courtesy of
City Life magazine)
Read more of this article...
Kro2 Manchester...
WINE magazine Jan. 2003 issue
This independently owned mini-group is churning out sequels faster
than Hollywood. Kro Bar opened to acclaim a couple of years ago
further down Oxford Road in the heart of the University, and a third
is being constructed occupying part of the Manchester Museum nearby
(Kro3 The Return perhaps?). But who cares when they look this smart
and offer good quality drinking and eating.
Read more of this article...
Choice bar & restaurant Manchester...
WINE magazine Dec. 2002 issue
Its short and sweet name gets the juices flowing: so is the
selection worthy at Choice bar & restaurant? This smart and
clear-cut establishment has been open for a year but is perhaps
overlooked, tucked away under Castle Quay by the canal in
Manchester’s redeveloped Castlefield area. The restaurant elegantly
oozes exposed old brick, cream and dark wood; the bar is similar
with wines on display in a glass cabinet.
Read more of this article...
More HOT... or hotter still?
A couple of bar reviews first published in Harpers on-trade magazine
(November and December 2002 issues): The Player, Ashton-Under-Lyne &
Cosmopolitan Spirit, Manchester.
more information
City Life Food & Drink Guide 2003 - get your copy from
www.citylife.co.uk
Wine in restaurants, wine & beer shopping, wine glossary and the
Gurkha Grill...
Wine is overpriced in restaurants. Now that I’ve annoyed
restaurateurs from Bolton to Altrincham (“what does he know about
overheads”), let me add that apparently on average two-thirds of
wine sold is house wine. We are drinking more and better wine with
food, but diners tend to set a psychological price ceiling and are
thus discouraged from experimenting.
Read more of this article...
Portugal
OLN 1st November 2002
Widely tipped as the next big thing, Portuguese wines frustratingly
don’t seem to be grabbing the imagination of wine drinkers and
flying off the shelves...
Much has been said about the diversity of its indigenous grape
varieties and regions, unique points of difference, advances in
quality and value for money, and quite rightly so. However most
consumers still don’t appear to recognise or understand and hence
choose the wines, but do like the styles and flavours, when given
the opportunity to taste them.
Read more of this article...
Bordeaux
OLN Bordeaux feature, 20 September 2002
57 Appellations, 12000 growers, 116000 hectares of vines and 6.8
million hectolitres – that’s about 75½ million cases of wine...
Welcome to the diverse world of Bordeaux basking in all its glory
and vastness, complexity and mediocrity. How can one region making
so much wine send out a consistent message and product and please
everyone from struggling grower to confused consumer? On the one
hand there’s the aloof aristocracy of top quality Châteaux, who
command very high prices and represent less than 5% of the total. On
the other a mass of often indifferent wines that lead to
disappointment with the area as a whole. And in between many unknown
AC’s or Petits Châteaux, which really do have something interesting
to offer.
Read more of this article...
New Zealand wine tasting preview
...dropped from City Life at the last minute due to lack of space
(11th Sept 2002 issue)!
The figures suggest we are a nation of avid kiwi-drinkers – over
half of New Zealand wine exports are consumed in Britain – which
nevertheless amounts to less than one tenth of the Australian wine
we put away. New Zealand’s small production favours a focus on
quality and does explain their higher prices, although occasionally
value for money can seem dubious.
Read more of this article...
HOT
harpers on-trade September 2002 (issue 25)
Miyako (50 Faulkner Street M1, 0161 228 1215) snuggles up, almost
unnoticed, shoulder-to-shoulder with the myriad, densely packed and
diverse restaurants, bakers and grocers that form Manchester’s China
Town...
Read more of this article...
Italian wines - Class magazine August 2002
“Pinot Grigio or Pinot Grigio” was a likely reply when asking for an
Italian wine in a bar a few years ago. So what’s changed? To find
out, Richard James trawled some of Manchester’s coolest and newest
establishments to see what’s listed, popular and quaff-tastic in
Italian wine drinking.
Read more of this article...
Château Falfas
Biodynamic in Bordeaux - click here for tasting notes and scores.
This fetching, subtly grand yet unpretentious and workmanlike
property is owned by John and Véronique Cochran and is located near
Bayon in the Côtes de Bourg appellation to the northeast of Bordeaux
on the Right Bank. This area isn’t known for great quality and hence
its wines don’t command high prices, but that doesn’t do justice to
certain individual estates who are reaching to applaud-worthy
heights. Château Falfas is one of them and almost unique in
Bordeaux, as it has been run on biodynamic principles since 1988,
thus joining such illustrious names as Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace,
Huet in Vouvray and Chapoutier in the Rhône.
Read more of this article...
City Life issue 457 - 29 May / 13 June 2002
Richard James checks out Deli Republic...
Are the citizens of Altrincham ready for upheaval? No, how about a
nice sandwich then?
Read more of this article...
Marseille travel - City Life issue 452, 20 March 2002
The EuroStar cut a January-grey, pastel-painted blur through the
spacious rural canvass like an Impressionist on speed...
It’s only really when you get to Paris – aside from the
embarrassingly sluggish chug through Kent followed by 20 minute
blackout – that it sinks in you’ve arrived in northern France,
without the more customary touchdown. A quick change of stations
from Gare du Nord to de Lyon, where we were confronted by a sexy
silver and blue, wingless beast waiting to teleport us to the south.
This awesome, double-decker TGV is one of a brand-new class that
hurtles down the Mediterranean line opened last summer.
Read more of this article...
Booth's of Stockport
City Life issue 448, 23 Jan - 7 Feb 2002
The stretch of Heaton Moor Road running from the station to the
Reform Club still retains some loose suburban village charm, with
its succinct parade of shops, bank and pubs. And a rather good,
blink-and-you’ll-miss-it wine merchant...
Read more of this article...
City Centre wine walk & shopping in the Manchester area
City Life Food & Drink Guide 2002
Les Délices de Champagne, upstairs @ Triangle/Corn Exchange, Hanging
Ditch.
Set yourself up by partaking in their ‘cake of the day and glass of
house Champagne special’ (£5.50), but start before the 7pm curfew
(5pm Sundays) at this posh French patisserie-cum-fine wine café.
Read more of this article...
Restaurant magazine
Launch issue October 2001
Australian wine continues to storm ahead in supermarkets and wine
shops, although enthusiastic predictions of it overtaking France to
secure pole position are perhaps premature. At the moment Oz doesn’t
seem to be seriously threatening the stronghold of French wines in
restaurants, reckoned to account for nearly half of all bottles
opened, but that could easily change (and already has when
considering the wine list in an average bar). If so, will we see yet
more formulaic branded Chardonnay and Shiraz rather than higher
quality, individual wines, or other unusual (but arguably less
saleable) offerings such as dry Aussie Riesling, which can be ideal
with Asian dishes, for example?
Read more of this article...
Restaurant magazine
31 October 2001 issue
“I’d like a nice Chardonnay please.”
“We have Red Ridge in a frosted blue bottle or Windswept Gorge with
a slick minimalist label.”
“Which is the best?”
“Well, they taste the same but the Windswept Gorge looks sharper.”
Read more of this article...
Tunisia by taxi...
First published in City Life September 2001
We arrived at Monastir airport loaded with a double dose of
self-satisfaction – the flight only cost £95, and we were now
arrogantly leaving behind the package-tour herd scrambling for the
reassuring comfort of waiting coaches. But also with a sense of
trepidation: first time in Africa, into the late January night on
your own. So bolstered by a travel guide we caught the Metro train
just outside to Mahdia, the last stop down the coast about 40-50 km.
The first peculiarity struck, for European eyes at least: no women
to be seen.
Read more of this article...
Swiss wines...
www.therestaurantgame.com archive 2001
Hidden elegance
The Swiss have been keeping a bit hush-hush about their wines until
quite recently – a tasting in London last year organised by the
Exporters’ Association proved to be an eye-opener, and they
exhibited at this year’s Restaurant Show. Images of mountains, snow
and great lakes don’t perhaps automatically conjure up vineyards,
but wine is made in similar environments elsewhere in the world, not
to mention just across the borders in France and Italy.
Read more of this article...
Pink paradise
www.therestaurantgame.com archive September 2001
Historically sales of rosé wines in restaurants have been hampered
by narrow-minded, outdated perceptions - sweet, wimpy, inferior red
- bolstered by the high profile of certain brands and styles. Surely
things have moved on, particularly as New World producers are
delivering rosés bursting with vivid colour and juicy fruit?
Read more of this article...
PerSian wine!
Too good for City Life... August 2001
“Why the Australians call the Syrah Shiraz isn’t clear – although
the Iranian city of Shiraz is thought to have been the birthplace of
the grape as long ago as 600BC…” (Oz Clarke’s Encyclopedia of Wine
1999 edition: more recent scientific research has now proved
otherwise, by the way).
Read more of this article...
Stars of the Languedoc-Roussillon
A few notes written in August 2001 as mock-ups for a publisher...
1999 Les Hauts de Força Réal rouge, Côtes du Roussillon Villages
(£10-15)
Producer: J-P Henriquès
Grape varieties: Mostly Syrah with Grenache and Mourvèdre.
Jean-Paul Henriquès’ beautiful 4 hectare property Força Réal is
located at Millas perched high up in the Roussillon hills above
Perpignan and offers staggering views towards the Mediterranean and,
in the other direction, the Pyrenees and Spain beyond.
Read more of this article...
Definitive Italian Wine Tasting
www.therestaurantgame.com archive July 2001
The Chelsea Village Galleria at Stamford Bridge provided a
powerfully green backdrop to the now annual ‘Definitive Italian Wine
Tasting’ on 11th July. But all the action took place on
white-clothed tables laden with bottles and thankfully in more than
90 minutes, as there were plenty of new wines and vintages to try.
Producers and importers could only show mid-priced wines and
upwards, meaning lower quality volume wines were excluded.
Read more of this article...
Champagne trip
June 2001.
At about an hour and a half’s drive from Paris, that ever so
reluctant-to-leave capital city, Champagne is the nearest and
easiest French wine region for us to visit... It’s also pretty,
green, warm in the summer, suffused with rolling hills…and they make
Champagne there; so lots of good reasons.
Read more of this article...
Travel: Bordeaux in brief April 2001
I feel like a Château-tourist celebrity spotting as the grand and
famous village names stroll serenely by through the coach window:
Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, Saint-Estèphe…
If you’re into wine and in particular Bordeaux red wine, a drive up
the D2 road northwest of the city along the Gironde estuary offers a
taste of the style, elegance and opulence, as you drool over some of
these magnificent buildings and vineyards and dream of their produce
caressing your palate or washing down some fine nosh. For these are
France’s élite, the replacement aristocracy and that means top
quality, sought-after and expensive.
Read more of this article...
Portuguese pleasures: www.everywine.co.uk April 2001
Portugal has much to offer beyond Port, writes Richard James. Find
out the low-down on the country's sun-drenched wines...
Portugal does indeed offer far more than Port. There are unfamiliar
but intriguing local grapes, diverse wine-styles and warm people who
actually seem to like the Brits. Portugal also offers a great range
of wine-producing climates. Portuguese wine producers have benefited
from grants given by the EU to modernise their wineries and improve
their vineyards. So why aren’t we buying many of their wines? Is
their exotic language a barrier? A fear of the unknown perhaps? Part
of the problem lies in the fact that many British wine-drinkers are
reluctant to explore beyond Port at Christmas and Mateus Rosé.
Read more of this article...
Tutored tasting of CVNE and Contino old and rare Riojas by winemaker
Jesús Madrazo Mateo
St. Stephen's Club London SW1, 21 March 2001. Originally appeared in
the Circle of Wine Writers' Update.
I was chuffed bordering on surprised at my apparent organisation
surrounding three days of events from 20 – 22 March: train ticket
from Manchester purchased sufficiently in advance to get the £20
fare, several tastings slotting neatly into place around the big
Spanish affair including a tutored Italian on the Wednesday morning,
if I/they got my/their skates on. Then the above, last minute-ish
invitation landed in my inbox (I’ll resist any facetious speculation
about second-tier bums-on-seats). I thought about it for perhaps 1.6
seconds – sorry ICE (Italian trade centre) but I guess I’m a
tasting-slut. So time to squeeze in the Swiss first - “I’m afraid,
sir, we’re going to have a problem…you can’t wear jeans upstairs,”
informs the ‘bouncer’ at the Institute of Directors. Pity they
didn’t mention that on the invitation. Still, there’s nothing like
some time to kill in a wet and miserable Westminster to enhance your
anticipation. On to St. Stephen's Club: looks a bit posh, I wonder
if you can wear jeans…
Read more of this article...
Les Grandes Maisons d’Alsace
Tasting and lunch 26 February 2001, Le Gavroche London W1
“No bloody oaks…disgusting.” Hubert Trimbach set the tone nicely for
this gathering of six high profile, family-owned Alsace Houses with
representatives from each offering half-a-dozen or so (unoaked)
white wines to taste and, of course, heart-felt commentary: Léon
Beyer, Dopff au Moulin, Hugel & Fils, Kuentz Bas, Domaines
Schlumberger and last but not least Trimbach. Price guide: A =
£3-£5, B = £5-£7, C = £7-£10, D = £10-£15, E = £15-£20, F = +£20.
(Notes on wines not necessarily typed in tasting order but as per
booklet.)
Read more of this article...
Wine to go with spicy food
www.virgin.net
Food & drink 31/01/01
In the past beer (usually lager) was the automatic choice to drink
with spicy food; the only method known to man of quenching that
fiery thirst following consumption of a Vindaloo or similar `death
by chilli` experience. There`s no denying cold German-style lager,
cool, light but hoppy beers or even water are a safe bet: it`s
asking a lot of a wine to tackle very hot food like this. But given
the diversity and popularity of Asian cuisine and restaurants and
the array of exotic ingredients involved, surely wine should be the
natural partner?
Read more of this article...
Fizz for less... cheap Champagne alternatives
www.virgin.net
Food & drink 12/12/00
It's true that decent champagne can lift you up and take you to a
better place, but unfortunately the price tag very soon brings you
back down to earth with a thump. And generally speaking, with cheap
champers, and shockingly even some high price brands, you get
exactly what you pay for - rather too young, lean and acidic.
Luckily nowadays it's easy enough to find alternatives, which still
taste good and offer excellent value...
Read more of this article...
Unusual Christmas wines, spirits and liqueurs
www.virgin.net
Food & drink 19/12/00
The festive season is upon us, and the Christmas gastronomic
onslaught is about to begin. Some of us might feel the need to get a
little merry at some point to cope with the sheer mind-boggling-ness
(and some might say hell) of it all. If your relatives are shrieking
in your ear, and you need to take the edge off things, why not sit
back with a glass of something a bit less commonplace than your
usual sweet sherry? We've got the info on the less used-and-abused
Christmas spirits and liqueurs...
Read more of this article...
Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé!
www.virgin.net
Food & drink 14/11/00
Guzzling gallons
Looking at the figures for the last two years, we don't seem to be
that bothered nowadays about Beaujolais Nouveau - only 740,000
bottles came into the country in 1999 which was 12% less than the
previous year. Sounds like quite a lot? Well, it's the wee-est of
drams compared to our friends in Germany and Japan - they guzzled a
whopping 10 and 6 million bottles respectively last November. Not
including the French of course, who quaff most of their infantile
red themselves.
Read more of this article...
HOME magazine monthly wine column
... including my selections to go with their recipes (1999 - 2000).
Click here for a summary of tasting notes of over 200 wines of the
month!
First ‘relaunch’ issue April 1999
It would be difficult not to have noticed the extraordinary changes
in the world of wine in the UK over the past few years: just walk
the aisles in any supermarket and take in the bewildering array of
labels, grape varieties and countries that assault the eye (and
hopefully the taste buds). ‘World of wine’ are the right words too -
few other countries have such diversity on sale as we do here...
Read more of this article...
Uncorked 1998-2000
A selection of resurrected column inches published in City Life,
Manchester.
Look above to read more recent articles from the magazine and their
food & drink guide.
Read more of this article... |