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"Listrac might not be
the first stop on most
Bordeaux enthusiasts' wine travel wish-list, although there certainly are a few
admired chateaux in this relatively small area (630 ha of vines) lying
approximately between Margaux and Saint-Julien further west of the river. The
appellation has existed for over 50 years but had a subtle facelift more
recently, i.e. they appended Médoc for ease of location. It borders green
forestland on one side and, naturally, vineyards on the other..."
“Some offer
you just a drink. Others offer you a château,” a recent Bordeaux ad
campaign boasted. They may well have an abundance of grand aristocratic
châteaux; but how many of them can you actually visit, or better still
stay the night at, as a humble wine traveller seeking the full monty
vines & winemaker experience? The western Languedoc offers many handsome
wine estates saturated in history and dramatic landscapes, which
increasingly can be enjoyed first-hand as the huge potential for ‘wine
tourism’ is slowly unleashed. And where better to start than the
sprawling region of outstanding rugged beauty to the north, south and
west of the Corbières hills…"
"When browsing through the
many words written about the history of growing grapes and making wine in
southeast France, you’ll no doubt come across plenty of that ‘since Roman’ and
‘Phoenician times’ or ‘Mediaeval monks’ stuff. However, it almost goes without
saying that the region’s wine roots and culture are just as ingrained as its
food and cuisine; as well as the way countless picturesque vine-scapes
effortlessly mould its very varied terrain. As is happening in other vinous
parts of France, Provence - Côte d’Azur winegrowers are striving to keep up with
‘les Martin’, let alone the Jones’ and Changs, and changing tastes at home and
worldwide. The region has plenty to offer on the wine front with several quite
different wine appellations, some of them household names and others hardly
known beyond the borders of 13, 83 or 84..." "Straining at the leash - the Roussillon's strict regulations are forcing producers to work outside the AOC. Who's in the right and is this new creativity paying off, asks Richard James?" This feature was first published in the September 2008 issue of Decanter magazine.
"The ideal of
the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system as standard-bearer of
‘typicity’ (like terroir, English struggles to comfortably
translate typicité) has been attacked before; but two damning
reports in Que Choisir? (France's Which?) within the last
year are yet more hefty nails in its coffin. The nationwide lobby group
called Sève (www.seve-vignerons.fr),
which has been pushing the establishment for an overhaul and
back-to-basics approach, saw these as evidence of what they've been
saying all along. AOC should be an honest reflection of the hard work
and raw materials that go into the bottle, if true site-specific wines
are to flourish. Yet here’s the dilemma: ‘table wines aren't the
future.’ Some of the most exciting producers have been pushed outside
the appellation framework, just like Tuscany all those years ago, due to
obsolete regulations and entrenched views on what the right grape
varieties or wine style should be. Besides, many growers have always
believed instinctive creativity should have free rein, if you want to
make the best and most unique wines possible from a particular area..."
"The Roussillon is usually
referred to along with the Languedoc as forming the largest wine region in
France. Although there are parallels in terms of wine styles, production
structure and social issues (linked to the industry’s importance as an
employer); Roussillon has a distinct identity and culture, as well as
different climate and terrain, with a considerably smaller area under vine
than the Languedoc. Nevertheless, the Roussillon’s image for wine remains
largely polarised or unknown.
"Crozes-Hermitage literally stands in the
imposing shadow of the Hermitage hillside vineyard, but do the wines lag
far behind in its awesome wake? The busy little town of Tain l’Hermitage,
on the Rhone’s right bank north of Valence, forms the heart of the
appellation (AOC) and where the eponymous hill starts to rise steeply,
immediately behind the station, adorned with placards carrying those oh-so
famous names (Chapoutier, Jaboulet…) and the landmark Chapelle revered by
wine lovers around the globe."
“We’re at the point of no return. Be
the worthy successors of the 1907 revolt, when some died to allow future
generations to live off their land.” This grim warning was issued in May
2007 to France’s fresh-faced President by hooded men shot in sinister
video-footage (source: France3/AFP). It’s more reminiscent of a bloody
broadcast from El Qaeda or ETA than a handful of angry winegrowers in a
sleepy Languedoc village. One month before, explosives were set off
outside supermarkets from Nîmes to Capestang. And the July 3 bombings -
the morning after a demonstration in Béziers and day before the European
Commission (EC) published wine sector reforms - mark a disturbing twist,
as this time the target was Co-operative Cellars’ Federation
headquarters in Montpellier and Narbonne..."
Waitrose wine magazine (allegedly)
"The Roussillon, apparently permanently
chained to its larger and more talked-about sibling the Languedoc, isn’t
perhaps the obvious place in the ‘new South’ to come up with popular
brands and innovative labels that will take the UK by storm. There are
less than 30,000 hectares (ha) under vine – below 10% of the surface area
of Languedoc-Roussillon as a whole – with over one third of this dedicated
to production of Vins Doux Naturels sweet wines. In addition, average
yields are relatively low at 35-40 hl/ha (all CIVR figures for 2006
vintage). Fifty co-operative cellars – dwindling in number yet
increasingly dynamic – account for 70-75% of the region’s volume. On the
other hand, around 450 independent growers are blazing an alternative
trail making ‘artisan’ wines; and in-between sit certain high-profile
estate owners cum merchant houses..."
Southern French Muscat
"The ‘Rencontres Mediterranéennes du Muscat’ might sound
like a dating agency for southern European winegrowers; but Perpignan’s
second Muscat showcase prompted further investigation into the variety’s
current standing and future potential in the UK. Firstly: traditional
‘vins doux naturels’ or other sweeties from the Roussillon - the leading
producer - Languedoc and southern Rhône. Secondly: developments in dry
Muscat styles and what retailers think of them..."
"The entire
Fitou appellation and its producers have left the CIVL, the regional
association of Languedoc wineries. When revealing export marketing budgets
at the CIVL’s AGM in Narbonne, Fitou’s letter of resignation was also
conspicuously on the agenda..."
South of France earmarks €7 million for export "Ambitious plans were announced by
Languedoc wine producers at their recent AGM in Narbonne. In an
unprecedented move to boost export sales, around half of the overall €15
million budget has been allocated to key European, North American and Far
East markets..."
"Whichever map
angle you approach the Fenouillèdes region from, you’ll quickly be invaded
by the primal beauty of the unforgiving terrain that cradles its
vineyards. Draped across a dramatically wild, elevated valley landscape
bridging Corbières and French Catalonia, you can kick off a wine route on
its eastern side coming from Perpignan airport, around the villages of
Calce, Estagel and Tautavel; or from the west between Caudiès de
Fenouillèdes and St-Paul de Fenouillet. The latter choice is recommended,
if you’re travelling down from Carcassonne via Limoux and Couiza then
winding your way through the scary Gorges de Galamus. Between St-Paul and
Estagel, dotted along and south of the D117 valley road, the villages and
wines of Lesquerde, Maury, Caramany, Rasiguères and Latour de France all
grab your attention..."
Understanding Mourvèdre
Dial M for Mourvèdre…Monastrell…or
indeed Mataro
"Limitless, dramatic: the Languedoc-Roussillon
is a wild landscape of contrasts. Demos and dynamite, dynamic estates and
brave new brands. While we should, of course, sympathise with stranded
growers asking for more help from a distant Paris; it was Vinisud, the
showcase for Mediterranean wines held in February, which took Montpellier
by storm in the most constructive sense. Unfortunate use of words perhaps,
in light of the isolated desperate acts that scar the region. But it’s
clearly the numerous creative winemakers, who are signposting the future
path for the South. This report looks at some of the new success stories
from the region and latest developments in building a cohesive approach to
marketing in the UK..."
"Perceptive readers might have noted with
interest the apparent paradox between two items in the 12th May issue of
OLN. One story had M&S enthusing: “the sexy and magical words Pinot Grigio…
(have) more resonance with shoppers.” The other, from a recent Wine
Intelligence survey, stated that “only 55% of monthly wine drinkers can
identify Pinot Grigio as a type of white grape.” The first follows some
kind of positive, consumer ‘brand’ acceptance; on the other hand, they
aren’t necessarily recognising it as a grape variety. So is the Pinot
Grigio star phenomenon still in the ascendant, or are there signs that PG
is passé?"
Armagnac trip autumn 2005
Once upon a time in the South…
Is there a d'Oc in the house?
'Screwcaps and beyond'
by guest wine writer Paul White "It should be
increasingly clear that screwcaps aren’t at all what they’ve been
cracked up to be. Evidence increasingly suggests that they are as
potentially faulty, albeit from a different set of faults, as either
corks or synthetic stoppers. Before I dig myself any deeper into this
contentious little hornet’s nest, let me declare up front that I have
absolutely no preference for cork over screwcaps over whatever. I’ve had
both magnificent and absolutely dreadful wine sealed under both corks
and screwcaps. Like most consumers, all I want is to have wine delivered
to me fault-free with a degree of consistency. If it’s wine intended for
early consumption I would want it to be fresh and ready to drink without
being disjointed or excessively harsh. And where it’s a fully matured,
bottle aged wine, I would hope for the sublime heights of the finest old
wines I’ve tasted so far under the best corks..."
"The Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins du Languedoc (CIVL) has
revealed plans to promote all the different appellations (AOC) under
the one umbrella of ‘Languedoc’, and to work together with other
producers to push the idea of ‘South of France’ in export markets..."
"The costumed tradition of ‘les Vendanges du Rond-Point des
Mourvèdres’ – harvesting 225 Mourvèdre vines planted on the
roundabout near motorway exit ‘La Cadière-Le Castellet’ north of the
town of Bandol – took place on Thursday 7th October in temperatures
of over 25°C, despite threats of rain issued by weather
forecasters..."
Big Turkish export push "Turkish wines are set to hit the UK as importer Alaturka teams up
with two major producers to concentrate on exports. UK agent
Alaturka will spearhead this export drive for wines from Turkey in
partnership with Doluca and Kavaklidere, the two largest wineries in
an industry previously lacking in co-operation..."
Pass the Bolly
Report on Rhône Valley wines published by OLN on August 6th 2004. France’s second longest river has inspired us to ‘think red’, ride with Rhône rangers and even roam with goats. Côtes du Rhône wines have, over time, won a place in the hearts of British buyers, but their current hit-or-miss performance has exposed the fickle nature of this relationship. If overall volume trends for the last year look a little alarming, then the rise in value and of certain appellations and brands – particularly from the southern Rhône – paints a rosier picture...
Feature on Austrian wine Off Licence News July 23 2004 “I’ll be
back,” as Austria’s most famous export, Governor Schwarzenegger, once
put it. Austrian growers are a little frustrated with being told their
wines are fantastic but too expensive. However, they do understand why
and appear keen to make a come back. A recent trip across the country's
main wine regions ably demonstrated what’s happening in vineyards and
cellars there, and what kind of wines are on offer for the UK. So far
distribution in the off-trade has been muted, but there are plenty of
ideas coming out of Austria on the marketing front. Their new DAC
appellation scheme looks interesting, and what about generic PR and the
future for brands..?
Burgundy growers disagree with proposals for AOC reform
"Growers and producers from the BIVB, the region’s main trade body,
issued their initial reactions to President of the INAO – the
organisation that sets and enforces the rules for French Appellation
d’Origine Contrôlée wines – René Renou’s plans for AOC reform,
presented at a packed meeting last week..."
"As you’ll soon notice when travelling around, the south of France is
awash with vast areas of picturesque vineyards: sometimes endless
rows forming great flat plains, sometimes impossibly steep or rocky
terraces. The volume of wine produced between Perpignan and Nice is
breathtaking, but there’s been a dramatic shift in thinking. The
southeast generally seems less dynamic than the
Languedoc-Roussillon, nevertheless there’s plenty of good wine to be
found amidst the plonk. Provence and the Côte d’Azur are home to a
bewildering array of wine regions: from miniscule Palette just east
of Aix and Nice’s bijou Bellet to the huge sweeping Côtes de
Provence and Coteaux d’Aix; up-and-coming Costières de Nîmes, Côtes
du Ventoux, Cairanne and Rasteau to established royalty like
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Bandol. The relatively hot and dry
climate prescribes red grape varieties foremost, although certain
appellations are rated for their whites such as Cassis..."
'An
Austrian adventure'
"You can almost see their eyes roll in time to the crescendo of
Mahler’s 5th, when an Austrian grower is told yet again their wines
are great but too expensive. But to fully appreciate Austria’s position,
a cool reminder is required placing them in the context of world
production. A recent visit covering regions such as Burgenland,
Thermenregion, Kamptal and Wachau provided a fascinating insight
into what is happening on the ground in terms of viticulture and
winemaking. To date, distribution in the UK is at best niche; there
is, however, no shortage of ideas or activity to broaden marketing and
sales of Austrian wines. The innovative DAC ‘appellation’ system
could prove an asset, and what of the potential of brands or even
cult wines?"
|
Côtes de Provence – Massif des Maures
"A day trip in early November 2003 took in a handful of wine estates dotted
along the peaceful (at that time of year at least) coastal strip between Hyères and Saint-Tropez, skirting the edges of the omnipresent
silhouette of the Massif des Maures. Four of these were so-called Cru Classé properties: Château
Sainte Marguerite, Clos Mireille (Domaines Ott), Château de
Brégançon and Château Minuty. This slightly dubious 'classification' dating
from 1956 holds no credible status in terms of official criteria for
superiority, but it certainly pumps up the prices and
expectations. Having said that, some of the Cru Classé wines are undeniably
very good and swim gracefully above the shoals of mediocrity found in the
vast sea that is Côtes de Provence. And if price and stature truly
reflect track record, a natural hierarchy can sometimes speak volumes..." Pastis: published in OLN on 28 November 2003.
"It’s an
old cliché – it just doesn’t taste the same back home – but this seems
so true when applied to pastis. Best enjoyed sitting outside a bar in
the south of France, soaking up the rays and partaking in the full
ritual: slowly add water from one of those cute oh-so-French jugs, watch
the ice swirl and the drink turn opaque. But this cultural flavour
experience doesn’t appear to translate as well to northern Europe and
beyond. So who’s drinking pastis – and which brands – in the UK and
other countries?"
Alsace travel in brief
"You get a nutshell glimpse of Strasbourg taking the groovy
Mancy-style tram (although a touch more ‘Space 1999’) from the main
station, which weaves through various clean-cut squares and shopping
streets. The capital of Alsace - and allegedly Europe - does in
certain ways give off a more Germanic than French feeling,
especially in the architecture department..."
'HOT' South of France & Rhône
“Château Latour, c’est le Pibarnon de Pauillac.” This facetious and
flattering quip by the French magazine Le Nouvel Observateur -
comparing Château Pibarnon (a leading estate in Bandol nestling
between Marseille and Toulon) and that slightly more famous property
in the Médoc - does in fact raise significant issues. Very few wines
outside the ‘classic’ regions, let alone in the south, have such a
reputation and saleable clout. So is there a place for the South of
France and the Rhône on our wine lists, and how are they and French
wines generally going down in restaurants and bars?"
L’Ambassade des Vignobles,
Marseille...
"This vast
tranquil square is easily found just a stone’s throw from the traffic
lining the south side of Marseille’s historic Vieux Port, at the bottom
of the steep ascent to that other postcard landmark, the magnificently
kitsch Notre Dame de la Garde basilica. On the port side, touristy restaurants offering bouillabaisse
aplenty dominate; in the furthest southwestern corner sits L’Ambassade
des Vignobles. The building is very old, the walls made of
near-crumbling stone with dark wood beams above. However it’s smart in
style but unstuffy in atmosphere; this is the South after all...."
! I'm still rebuilding this site so please bear with me if things are missing or look a bit odd. It'll be gran reserva when finished (cue 2020, a wine odyssey) !
Pomerol February 2003: invasion of MW students (part one)...
Pomerol February 2003: invasion of MW students (part two)... Italian wines: Off Licence News April 2003
"Keeping their fingers crossed was never going to be enough for
Italian wine producers with a presence on UK off-licence shelves.
After at least two successive years of increasing their market
share, the figures suggest a downturn in sales. In 2002 Italy lost
about 5% of its value share of the take home market, but still occupied
third slot with 10-11% in value and 12% in volume. Jan/Feb
2003 MAT data confirms a further slightly downward trend (all stats
ACNielsen). In addition a difficult 2002 vintage resulting in lower
volumes and possibly quality isn’t going to help."
"With the onslaught of the New World, German wines stand little
chance of surviving..."
Restaurants, bars and clubs: Edinburgh & London...
Valentine’s Day drinking & eating...
Chine Rouge Manchester...
"This grand swish establishment is a newcomer to Chinatown and offers
refinement, cosiness and high camp courtesy of Manchester
institution Francis Carroll (of Lounge Ten fame). The interior is
glorious: black painted and red padded walls neatly matching red
benches, low black armchairs and red stained wooden floorboards. A
giant Buddha sits observing amidst candles, Chinese umbrellas above
on the roof, marble-affect pillars ornamented with kitsch oriental
designs and a large painting of two Geishas or lady-boys drinking..."
(Picture courtesy of
City Life magazine)
Kro2 Manchester...
Choice bar & restaurant Manchester...
More HOT... or hotter still?
City Life Food & Drink Guide 2003
"Wine is overpriced in restaurants. Now that I’ve annoyed
restaurateurs from Bolton to Altrincham (“what does he know about
overheads”), let me add that apparently on average two-thirds of
wine sold is house wine. We are drinking more and better wine with
food, but diners tend to set a psychological price ceiling and are
thus discouraged from experimenting..."
Portugal
"Widely tipped
as the next big thing, Portuguese wines frustratingly don’t seem to be
grabbing the imagination of wine drinkers and flying off the shelves.
Much has been said about the diversity of its indigenous grape varieties
and regions, unique points of difference, advances in quality and value
for money, and quite rightly so. However most consumers still don’t
appear to recognise or understand and hence choose the wines, but do
like the styles and flavours, when given the opportunity to taste them."
Bordeaux "57 Appellations, 12000 growers, 116000 hectares of vines and 6.8
million hectolitres – that’s about 75½ million cases of wine...
Welcome to the diverse world of Bordeaux basking in all its glory
and vastness, complexity and mediocrity. How can one region making
so much wine send out a consistent message and product and please
everyone from struggling grower to confused consumer? On the one
hand there’s the aloof aristocracy of top quality Châteaux, who
command very high prices and represent less than 5% of the total. On
the other a mass of often indifferent wines that lead to
disappointment with the area as a whole. And in between many unknown
ACs or Petits Châteaux, which really do have something interesting
to offer."
New Zealand wine tasting preview
"The figures suggest we are a nation of avid kiwi-drinkers – over
half of New Zealand wine exports are consumed in Britain – which
nevertheless amounts to less than one tenth of the Australian wine
we put away. New Zealand’s small production favours a focus on
quality and does help explain their higher prices, although occasionally
value for money can appear dubious..." HOT: harpers on-trade September 2002 (issue 25)
"Miyako (50 Faulkner Street M1, 0161 228 1215) snuggles up, almost
unnoticed, shoulder-to-shoulder with the myriad, densely packed and
diverse restaurants, bakers and grocers that form Manchester’s China
Town..." A brief investigation into, and review of
sushi
restaurants in Manchester.
Plus a few thoughts on licensing policy and growth of late bars in the
city centre: "...is
there a trend towards late-licensed bars – whether exclusive, cavernous
or plain raucous – taking over as the preferred venue for ‘after hours’
drinking and dancing?"
Italian wines - Class magazine August 2002
Château Falfas
City Life issue 457 - 29 May / 13 June 2002 Marseille travel - City Life issue 452, 20 March 2002
"The EuroStar
cut a January-grey, pastel-painted blur through the spacious rural
canvass like an Impressionist on speed. It’s only really when you get to
Paris – aside from the embarrassingly sluggish chug through Kent
followed by 20 minute blackout – that it sinks in you’ve arrived in
northern France, without the more customary touchdown. A quick change of
stations from Gare du Nord to de Lyon, where we were confronted by a
sexy silver and blue, wingless beast waiting to teleport us to the
south. This awesome, double-decker TGV is one of a brand-new class that
hurtles down the Mediterranean line opened last summer..." Booth's of Stockport: City Life issue 448, 23 Jan - 7 Feb 2002
"The stretch of Heaton Moor Road running from the station to the
Reform Club still retains some loose suburban village charm, with
its succinct parade of shops, bank and pubs. And a rather good,
blink-and-you’ll-miss-it wine merchant..."
City Centre wine walk & shopping in the Manchester area
"Les Délices de Champagne, upstairs @ Triangle/Corn Exchange, Hanging
Ditch.
Set yourself up by partaking in their ‘cake of the day and glass of
house Champagne special’ (£5.50), but start before the 7pm curfew
(5pm Sundays) at this posh French patisserie-cum-fine wine café..."
Restaurant magazine
Restaurant magazine,
31 October 2001 issue
Tunisia by taxi
"We arrived at Monastir airport loaded with a double dose of
self-satisfaction – the flight only cost £95, and we were now
arrogantly leaving behind the package-tour herd scrambling for the
reassuring comfort of waiting coaches. But also with a sense of
trepidation: first time in Africa, into the late January night on
your own. So bolstered by a travel guide we caught the Metro train
just outside to Mahdia, the last stop down the coast about 40-50 km.
The first peculiarity struck, for European eyes at least: no women
to be seen..."
Swiss wines...
www.therestaurantgame.com archive 2001
Pink paradise
www.therestaurantgame.com archive September 2001
PerSian wine!
“Why the Australians call the Syrah Shiraz isn’t clear – although
the Iranian city of Shiraz is thought to have been the birthplace of
the grape as long ago as 600BC…” (Oz Clarke’s Encyclopedia of Wine
1999 edition: more recent scientific research has now proved
otherwise, by the way)..."
Stars of the Languedoc-Roussillon
Definitive Italian Wine Tasting
www.therestaurantgame.com archive July 2001
Champagne trip,
June 2001.
Travel: Bordeaux in brief April 2001
Portuguese pleasures: www.everywine.co.uk April 2001
Tutored tasting of CVNE and Contino old and rare Riojas by winemaker
Jesús Madrazo Mateo
Les Grandes Maisons d’Alsace
Wine to go with spicy food
Fizz for less... cheap Champagne alternatives
www.virgin.net
Unusual Christmas wines, spirits and liqueurs
www.virgin.net
Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé!
www.virgin.net
Home Magazine:
Richard James' wine column & wines of the month 1999 - 2000
"Uncorked" 1998-2000 |
|
Wine travel,
western Languedoc:
"Suite Dreams. Forget cellar tours or winery restaurants. For a complete
wine lover's experience, why not spend a night or two at a chateau or
gite among the vines? Richard James heads to the Languedoc." This article originally appeared
in the July 2009 issue of
The
Roussillon, present and future: a mini-thesis
Climate
Change and Wine, Barcelona 15 February 2008
Touring Crozes-Hermitage country
"Roussillon's Identity Parade"
Fitou
splits from Languedoc
"Italy's great
white hope: Pinot Grigio"
"Watching Marc Saint-Martin stoke up
Marie-Jeanne’s fire with chunks of dry wood evokes romantic images of
steam trains and times gone by. It’s actually the name of his “probably at
least 100 year old” travelling still: each one has a story to tell and
emphasises the artisan nature of Armagnac production even today. Once he’d
finished his first batch over the weekend, he was off touring around with
two mobile units distilling for other small producers before returning to
his makeshift cellar (a huge dilapidated barn about to be restored) to
carry on non-stop until Christmas..."
"Once upon a time in the South…there were wines called Corbières and
Coteaux du Languedoc. Now sweeping changes are afoot to both
rationalise and diversify the AOC hierarchy and names across the
Languedoc-Roussillon. An unenviable task for a region covering
300,000 hectares, where entrenched (and occasionally dangerous)
tradition goes hand in hand with progressive export-driven
producers. So watch out for La Clape, Grés de Montpellier,
Saint-Chinian Berlou and straight Languedoc. Confused? Well, there is
admirable logic behind all of this..."
Provence
in the pink... rosé road trip
Languedoc wines speak the same language
Bandol harvest finishes early
