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The Armagnac region covers a pretty wide area of southwest France located to the west of Toulouse and about 150 km (100 miles) south of Bordeaux, although we’re only talking about 15,000 hectares (ha), or 37,000 acres of vineyards and 6 million bottles each year. The workings of the continuous ‘alambic’ still and the fruity spirit it generates create the main difference from Cognac, although some Armagnac is double distilled like the latter (brand leader Janneau for example). In simple terms, wine is fed into one part of the still, where it cools the alcohol vapour descending the coil. When hot, it crosses over to the column and cascades down over the plates – eight are ideal according to St-Martin to avoid over-purifying the spirit, others use from six to ten – bubbling together with the vapours rising from the fire.
In contrast, Martine Lafitte at Domaine de Boingnères prefers the regularity of gas to heat her very handsome copper still. When you visit a few Armagnac producers, this is what stands out. Whereas arguably Cognac is rather industrial and standardised in taste, virtually everyone here offers an individual style; whether from a large international operation like Tariquet (Yves Grassa) – although the Armagnac side remains very craftsman-like – to a miniature traditional producer such as Lafitte with her precious barrels of old vintage Armagnacs. The personalities seem to come across in the product. Tariquet’s estate at Eauze in the Bas-Armagnac zone covers nearly 1000 ha, which Grassa expanded from the 70s to develop their booming wine production. The contrast is startling between the damp cobwebbed cellar, full of dusty 400 litre barrels of maturing spirit, and the mega-tech winery run by machines. The varieties planted for distillation are Baco, Ugni Blanc and Folle Blanche; the latter (same as Picpoul in the Languedoc) makes up a tiny percentage overall but has become fashionable, as it’s the most characterful variety yet difficult to grow and prone to rot. Séverine Chomat, who looks after Armagnac production, explained: “we make the VSOP and Hors d’Age (see below) blends once every year according to the market and stocks, and vintage in exceptional years.” The young spirit starts its ageing in their other ‘dry’ cellar (which promotes evaporation) in new barrels for up to three years, then is racked to gradually older casks and finally ends up in the old cellar, where high humidity slows evaporation. The fine-grained new barrels are slightly toasted, which suits the Tariquet lighter coloured house style. The art is understanding how time in new wood (and cask size/type/toast) influences flavour, to add a touch of sweetness and roundness without becoming oaky. Several producers make single varietal Armagnacs such as Folle Blanche, which is an interesting approach (even if barrel ageing and strength are what gives most of its character). Tariquet sells a boxed range including 4, 8 and 12 year old. Many exceed the minimum legal maturation for their traditional blends: Tariquet’s XO is 12 years old and Hors d’Age 18. Chomat has developed a new range of three cask strength, single vat Armagnacs e.g. Fût no.6 XO at 54.9° (571 bottles), which could ride in on the success of prestige Malts. Château de Bordeneuve – better known for their Baron de Sigognac brand – is one of few left who only produces Armagnac. It’s run by the Guasch family, father (who called himself “the nose”) and son Thomas, who handles packaging, exports etc. The Bordeneuve label is sourced exclusively from their 15 ha domaine and Sigognac from a wider area. As we tasted Guasch’s complex rich 1986 from cask, he described his philosophy: “Vintage is the priority but VSOP the workhorse. Armagnac is a bit of a discovery, none tastes like another... We're craftsmen, Cognac is more industrial!” They also have around 100 mixed vintages – the oldest is 1888 – from different estates stored in large flasks (removed from cask to stop them drying out and evaporating to below 40°), which are bottled to order to satisfy the ‘birthday market’. Vintage will always be a lucrative niche, although these lovely Armagnacs still offer good value for money considering the quality. Promoting the idea of years, domaines and châteaux also makes sense to remind consumers this is a wine based product from an annual grape harvest, rather than more industrial process like most spirits. Other products include Blanche de Bordeneuve, an unaged grappa-like clear spirit that’s becoming popular; the same with lime essence; and la Grande Josiane, 3 year old Armagnac flavoured with bitter and sweet oranges. Domaine de Boingnères, dating from 1807, represents the traditional school. Lafitte has decided to distil just Folle Blanche as sales are down: “it’s a shame as it’s a very good year.” Her vintage Armagnacs are naturally 47-49° undiluted; the 1990 and 80 from cask both show promise with toasty coffee and prune notes. Martine believes “about 30 years is perfect; they can and do keep longer but if there’s too much rancio, they lose character and freshness… People say Armagnac is expensive but, based on a yearly harvest, all this costs money. Whisky is expensive.”
Armagnac
age & quality terms:
VSOP or Réserve – at least 5 years old (meaning the minimum age of the youngest Armagnac in the blend). XO – at least 6 years old. Hors d’Age – at least 10 years old (literally 'beyond age or ageless'). Mention of age – e.g. 5, 10 or 20 Year Old. Vintage – only from the stated single harvest e.g. 1986, 1990, 1789! |
Château de Laubade is the biggest
Armagnac-only producer, with 105 ha, acc A version of this article was first published in Off Licence News on 9th December 2005. A few recommended Armagnacs and wines
Château du
Tariquet Château de Bordeneuve
- Baron de Sigognac Château de Malliac Domaine de Boingnères Domaine d’Espérance Château de Laubade
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This infuses them with wine aromas as
they pass over to the coil, condense, cool and run out into cask. The raw
spirit usually comes off below 60%; we tasted it at 65 (a definite wow yet
fine, floral and fruity) so adjustments were needed. A copper still is
considered “the best in terms of heat exchange, holding temperature and as
a catalyst to remove the yeast-lees,” St-Martin explained. Château du
Tariquet is also wood-fired “because it’s less even giving a greater
spectrum of flavours,” Séverine Chomat said.
ording to export director Stephen Lemaitre; they also own several properties in Bordeaux, Madiran and now
Uruguay. Laubade has 80% of vintage Armagnac business worldwide, which is
“70% of our sales and exports are growing,” Lemaitre enthused. Their
labels are classic yet simple, and the date on vintage styles (also
packaged in smart boxes) features on a silver background right on the
front. The trade body BNIA (