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27 August 2011

Languedoc: Domaine les Eminades, Saint-Chinian



Set up by affable couple Patricia and Luc Bettoni, this spectacular-vista estate has been tended organically since the beginning in 2002; and they say they do as much "naturally" and by hand as possible. Their handsome old vines line up across dry stoney hillsides around the villages of Cébazan and Villespassan, mostly made up of senior-citizen Carignan (50 to 110 years old), Grenache (25 to 60 years), a splash of younger Syrah and some middle-aged Cinsault too.
The three wines below sell for about £15 to £25 in the UK via their London agent Aubert & Mascoli (or 10 - 13 - 24 Euros in situ) and were sampled at the ‘natural’ wine fair (click there for more info)See right-hand column for rant on "1-2-3" scoring.

2009 Silice white, Coteaux du Fontcaude (Sauvignon blanc) - toasty and yeast-lees notes, quite intense and concentrated, a tad yeasty still on its tight unrevealing finish. Try it again in a few months time please. 1
2008 Cebenna St-Chinian red (40% Carignan, 40% Grenache, 20% Syrah) - perfumed wild herb/shrub aromas, floral and spicy, elegant lighter style with lovely tasty finish. 2
2007 Vieilles Canailles St-Chinian red (100% single plot 1902 Carignan) - herby vs rich profile, more powerful and concentrated than above, still quite firm and tight mouth-feel yet with enticing liquorice vs savoury flavours. 2+

1 comment:

  1. Dear RMJ - I've just come across your [new] blog via my pal Leon Stolarski's. I'm sorry we've never met - thus far! Congratulations on your fine work.
    I heartily approve your comments on scoring futility. Two points:
    1. How could you possibly represent with a number the remarkable, lucid, colourful descriptions that someone like Leon gives for the wines he tastes?
    2. Max Allen had the right idea when, as an Aussie [but born in England] he said he rated wines as "bad", "good" or "bloody good". I like that!
    Very best,
    Peter Gorley
    PS Delighted to see the Bettonis getting an outing.

    ReplyDelete